_Narrative of Mr. Pike's Journey from St. Louis, through Louisiana, to
Santa Fe, New Spain._
The party engaged in this expedition, were Mr. Pike and another
lieutenant, a surgeon, a serjeant, two corporals, sixteen private
soldiers, and one interpreter. They had, under their charge, some
chiefs of the Osage and Pawnee nations, who, with several women and
children, had been redeemed from captivity, and now, to the number of
fifty-one, were about to be restored to their friends.
They set out from _St. Louis_ on the 15th of July, 1806, and proceeded,
in two boats, up the _Missouri_. About six miles from the village of
_St. Charles_, they passed a hill of solid coal, so extensive that it
would probably afford fuel sufficient for the whole population of
Louisiana.
Mr. Pike says that, every morning, he was awaked by the lamentations of
the savages who accompanied him. These invariably began to cry about
day-light, and continued to do so for an hour. On enquiry respecting
this practice, he was informed that it was customary, not only with
persons who had recently lost their friends; but also with others who
called to mind the loss of some friend, dead long before. They seemed to
be extremely affected: tears ran down their cheeks, and they sobbed
bitterly; but, when the hour was expired, they, in a moment, ceased
their cries, and dried their cheeks.
In their progress up the river, the Indians walked along the banks, and,
every night, encamped near the boats. On the 28th the boats reached the
mouth of the _Osage river_. For some distance the southern shore of the
Missouri had been hilly, and covered with trees; and on the north were
low bottoms and heavy timber. The soil was rich, and well adapted for
cultivation.
They entered the Osage, and encountered few difficulties in their voyage
up that river. From the shores, the hunters amply supplied the whole
party with provisions; deer, turkeys, geese, and game of different
kinds.
From the mouth of the Osage to that of the _Gravel river_, a distance of
one hundred and eighteen miles, the banks of the former are covered with
timber, which grows in a rich soil. Low hills, with rocks, alternately
border the eastern and western shores: the lower grounds have excellent
soil, and the whole adjacent country abounds in game. From the
Gravel-river to the _Yungar_, the Osage continues to exhibit the
appearance of a fertile and well-timbered country.
The Indians joined their friends on the 15th, after which Mr. Pike and
his party proceeded alone. On the ensuing day they passed the mouth of
the _Grand Fork_, which was nearly as wide as the Osage; and, soon
afterwards, reached the villages of the Osage Indians. The country
adjacent to these villages is extremely beautiful. Three branches of the
river wind round them, giving to their vicinity the advantages of wood
and water, and, at the same time, those of an extensive prairie, crowned
with rich and luxuriant grass and flowers, diversified by rising swells
and sloping lawns.
The _Osage Indians_, in language, habits, and many of their customs,
differ little from other tribes which inhabit the country near the
Missouri and Mississippi. They raise great quantities of corn, beans,
and pumpkins; and all the agricultural labour is performed by women. The
government is vested in a few of the chiefs, whose office is, in most
instances, hereditary; but these never undertake any affair of
importance, without first assembling the warriors, and proposing the
subject for discussion in council. The Osage Indians are divided into
classes: those of the principal class are warriors and hunters; and the
others are cooks and doctors. The last exercise the function of priests
or magicians; and, by pretended divinations, interpretations of dreams,
and magical performances, they have great influence in the councils of
the nation: they also exercise the office of town-criers. Many old
warriors assume the profession of cooks: these do not carry arms, and
are supported by the public, or by particular families to which they are
attached.
When a stranger enters the Osage village, he is received, in a
patriarchal style, at the lodge of the chief. He is then invited, by all
the great men of the village, to a feast. The cooks proclaim the feast,
in different parts of the village, "Come and eat: such a one gives a
feast, come and partake of his bounty." The dishes are generally boiled
sweet corn, served up in buffalo grease; or boiled meat and pumpkins.
From the Osage villages, Mr. Pike, and his men, accompanied by several
Indians, proceeded, on horseback, in a somewhat westerly direction,
towards the river Arkansaw. In some places the country was hilly, and
commanded beautiful prospects. The wild animals were so numerous, that
Mr. Pike, standing on one of the hills, beheld, at a single view,
buffaloes, elks, deer, and panthers. Beyond this they passed through
numerous herds of buffaloes, elks, and other animals. In many places the
country was very deficient in water.
On the 17th of September they reached a branch of the _Kanzes river_,
the water of which was strongly impregnated with salt, as was that of
many of the creeks. At some distance beyond this river, they were met by
a party of Pawnee Indians; one of whom wore a scarlet coat, and had two
medals: each of the others had a buffalo robe thrown over his naked
body.
From the eastern branch of the Kanzes river, to the village of the
Pawnee Indians, the prairies are low, the grass is high, the country
abounds in saline places, and the soil appears to be impregnated with
particles of nitre and of common salt. The immediate borders of the
river near the village, consist of lofty ridges; but this is an
exception to the general appearance of the country.
The _Pawnees_ reside on the rivers Platte and Kanzes. They are divided
into three tribes. Their form is slender, and their cheeks bones are
high. They are neither so brave nor so honest as their more northern
neighbours. Their government, like that of the Osage Indians, is an
hereditary aristocracy; but the power of the chiefs is extremely
limited. They cultivate the soil and raise corn and pumpkins: they also
breed horses, and have vast numbers of excellent animals. The houses or
huts of the Pawnees are circular, except at the part where the door is
placed; and, from this part, there is a projection of about fifteen
feet. The roofs are thatched with grass and earth, and have, at the top,
an aperture for the smoke to pass out: the fire is always made on the
ground, in the middle of the hut. In the interior there are, round the
walls, many small and neat apartments, constructed of wicker-work: these
are the sleeping places of the different members of the family. The
Pawnees are extremely addicted to gaming, and have, for that purpose, a
smooth piece of ground, about one hundred and fifty yards in length,
cleared at each end of their village.
On Monday, the 29th of September, Mr. Pike held a grand council with the
Pawnees; at which were present not fewer than four hundred warriors.
Some attempts were made, by the chief, to prevent the further progress
of the travellers; but Mr. Pike says, that they were not to be deterred
by any impediments that could be opposed to them by a band of savages.
Proceeding onward they came to several places which had evidently been
occupied by Spanish troops; and they were desirous of tracing the course
along which these troops had marched; but the marks of their footsteps
had been effaced by the numerous herds of buffaloes, which abound in
this part of the country.
On the 18th of October, the travellers crossed the _Arkansaw_. From the
Pawnee town, on the Kanzes river, to the Arkansaw, the country may be
termed mountainous; and it contains a vast number of buffaloes. In the
vicinity of this river it is, in many places, low and swampy.
The travellers were occupied several days in cutting down trees and
constructing canoes. During this time the hunters killed several
buffaloes, elks, and other animals. When the canoes were completed, Mr.
Pike dispatched Lieutenant Wilkinson, and three men, down the river,
with letters to the United States; and himself and the rest of his men
proceeded, on horseback, up the side of the river. On the 29th of
October, a considerable quantity of snow fell, and ice floated along the
current. Three days after this, they observed a numerous herd of wild
horses. When within about a quarter of a mile of them, the animals
approached, making the earth tremble, as if under a charge of cavalry.
They stopped; and, among them, were seen some beautiful bays, blacks,
and greys, and, indeed, horses of all colours. The next day the party
endeavoured to catch some of them, by riding up, and throwing nooses
over them. The horses stood, neighing and whinnying, till the assailants
approached within thirty or forty yards; but all attempts to ensnare
them were vain.
Buffaloes were so numerous, that Mr. Pike says he is confident there
were, at one time, more than three thousand within view. Through all the
region which the party had hitherto traversed, they had not seen more
than one cow-buffalo; but now the whole face of the country appeared to
be covered with cows. Numerous herds of them were seen nearly every day.
The course of the travellers still lay along the banks of the river;
which, in this part of the country, were covered with wood on both
sides; but no other species of trees were observed than cotton-wood. On
the 15th of November, a range of mountains was seen, at a great
distance, towards the right: they appeared like a small blue cloud; and
the party, with one accord, gave three cheers, to what they considered
to be the Mexican mountains.
On the 22d, a great number of Indians were seen in the act of running
from the woods, towards the strangers. Mr. Pike and his men advanced to
meet them; and observing that those in front, extended their hands, and
appeared to be unarmed, he alighted from his horse. But he had no sooner
done this, than one of the savages mounted the horse, and rode off with
it. Two other horses were taken away in a similar manner; but, when
tranquillity was restored, these were all afterwards recovered. This was
a war-party of the _Grand Pawnees_, who had been in search of an Indian
nation called Jetans; but, not finding them, they were now on their
return. They were about sixty in number, armed partly with guns, and
partly with bows, arrows, and lances. An attempt was made to
tranquillize them, by assembling them in a circle, offering to smoke
with them the pipe of peace, and presenting them with tobacco, knives,
fire-steels, and flints. With some difficulty they were induced to
accept these presents, for they had demanded many more; and, when the
travellers began to load their horses, they stole whatever they could
carry away.
A few days after this, Mr. Pike and his men reached the Blue Mountain,
which they had seen on the 15th; and, with great difficulty, some of
them ascended it. Along the sides, which were, in many places, rocky,
and difficult of ascent, grew yellow and pitch pine-trees, and the
summit was several feet deep in snow.
From the entrance of the _Arkansaw_ into the mountains, to its source,
it is alternately bounded by perpendicular precipices, and small, narrow
prairies. In many places, the river precipitates itself over rocks, so
as to be at one moment visible only in the foaming and boiling of its
waters, and at the next disappearing in the chasms of the overhanging
precipices. The length of this river is one thousand nine hundred and
eighty-one miles, from its junction with the Mississippi to the
mountains; and thence to its source one hundred and ninety-two; making
its total length two thousand one hundred and seventy-three miles. With
light boats it is navigable all the way to the mountains. Its borders
may be termed the terrestrial paradise of the wandering savages. Of all
the countries ever visited by civilized man, there probably never was
one that produced game in greater abundance than this.
By the route of the Arkansaw and the _Rio Colorado_ of California, Mr.
Pike is of opinion that a communication might be established betwixt
the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. The land-carriage, at the utmost, would
not exceed two hundred miles; and this might be rendered as easy as
along the public highways over the Alleghany Mountains. The Rio Colorado
is, to the great Gulf of California, what the Mississippi is to the Gulf
of Mexico; and is navigable for ships of considerable burden.
The travellers left the vicinity of the Arkansaw on the 30th of
November; and, though the ground was covered with snow, and they
suffered excessively from the cold, they still persevered in their
journey, and in their labour of examining and ascertaining the courses
of the rivers. They killed a great number of buffaloes and turkeys.
Steering their course in a south-westerly direction, for the head of the
Red river, one of the party found a camp which had been occupied by at
least three thousand Indians: it had a large cross in the middle. They
subsequently found many evacuated camps of Indians.
On the 18th of December, they came to a stream, about twenty-five yards
in width, which they erroneously supposed to be a branch of the Red
river. Its current flowed with great rapidity, and its bed was full of
rocks. On ascending this river, to examine its source, it was found to
run close to the mountains, in a narrow and rocky channel; and to have
its banks bordered with pine-trees, cedar, and other kinds of timber.
The whole party suffered extremely from cold; their clothing being
frozen stiff, and their limbs considerably benumbed.
Their situation, on Christmas-day, was not very enviable. All the food
they possessed, was buffalo-flesh, without salt. Before this time, they
had been accustomed to some degree of comfort, and had experienced even
some enjoyments: but now, at the most inclement season of the year, and
eight hundred miles distant from the frontiers of the United States, not
one person was properly clad for the winter; many were even without
blankets, having cut them up for socks and other articles; and all were
obliged to lie down at night, upon the snow or wet ground, one side
burning and the other frozen. For shoes and clothing they were obliged
to adopt a miserable substitute in raw buffalo hides.
In their further progress, they suffered excessive hardships for several
days. Food became so scarce, that they were obliged to separate into
eight different parties, in order to procure subsistence. The roads were
so mountainous, stony, and slippery, that it was with the greatest
difficulty the horses could be prevented from stumbling; and many of
them fell. In one instance, the whole party were four days without food;
and some of them had their feet frozen. At length, they were obliged to
leave the horses; and each man had to carry a heavy load, and, at the
same time, to march through snow two feet and half deep. Several of the
men, unable to keep pace with the rest, were left behind.
On the 27th of January, Mr. Pike observed, at a distance, a large river,
which he imagined to be the Red river; and, on the 30th, he reached its
banks. This, afterwards, proved to be the _Rio del Norte_. They
proceeded along its banks, for about eighteen miles; and, at length,
came to a spot, where they established a temporary residence, whilst
they sent men to assist, and collect together the unfortunate stragglers
who had been left in the rear.
The region they had traversed betwixt the Arkansaw and the Rio del
Norte, was covered with mountains and small prairies. From the Missouri
to the head of the Osage river, a distance of about three hundred miles,
Mr. Pike says that the country will admit of a numerous, extensive, and
compact population. From the Osage to the rivers Kanzes, La Platte, and
Arkansaw, the country could sustain only a limited population; but the
inhabitants might, with advantage, rear cattle, horses, sheep, and
goats.
On the 16th of February, whilst Mr. Pike and one of his men were
hunting, in the vicinity of their residence, they observed, at a
distance, two horsemen, armed with lances. They proved to be a Spanish
dragoon and an Indian, who had been sent from Santa Fe, a town of New
Spain, about four days before. On the 17th, some of the stragglers
arrived: several of them had lost the joints of their toes, by the
intensity of the frost, and were rendered cripples for life.
The Spanish dragoon and Indian had returned to Santa Fe; and the report
which they made of the appearance of the strangers, induced the governor
to send out fifty dragoons, and fifty mounted militia, for the purpose
of ascertaining their state and numbers. In an interview which took
place with the commanders of these troops, Mr. Pike learnt that the
river, on the bank of which he had encamped, was the Rio del Norte, and
not the Red river, as he had imagined. The officers stated to him that a
hundred mules and horses had been sent to convey him, his men, and
baggage, to Santa Fe; and that the governor was anxious to see them in
that town, to receive an explanation respecting their business on his
frontiers.
Mr. Pike and some of his men accompanied the officers to Santa Fe, while
others were left behind, to wait the arrival of those who had not yet
come up.
In their progress, they were treated, in all the villages, with the
utmost hospitality. On their march, they were frequently stopped by
women, who invited them into their houses to eat; and, in every place
where they halted, there was a contest who should be their hosts. Those
that had suffered by having their limbs frozen, were conducted home by
old men, who caused their daughters to dress the sores, and to provide
for them victuals and drink; and, at night, they gave them the best bed
in the house.
In the evening of the 3d of March, Mr. Pike reached _Santa Fe_. This
city, the capital of New Mexico, is situated along the banks of a small
creek, which issues from the mountains, and runs westward to the Rio
del Norte. It is about a mile in length, and not more than three
streets in width. The houses are, generally, only one story high, and
have flat roofs. There are, in Santa Fe, two churches, the magnificence
of whose steeples forms an extraordinary contrast to the miserable
appearance of the other buildings. On the north side of the town is a
square, constructed for soldiers' houses, each flank of which contains
from a hundred and twenty to a hundred and forty. The public square is
in the centre of the town. On one side of it is the palace or
government-house, with the quarters for the guards; and the other sides
are occupied by the houses of the clergy, and public officers. Most of
the houses have sheds before them, which occasion the streets to be very
narrow. The number of inhabitants in Santa Fe, is supposed to be about
four thousand five hundred.
On Mr. Pike and his men entering this town, the crowd assembled to view
them was excessively great: and, indeed, their extremely miserable
appearance seems to have excited much curiosity. This may easily be
accounted for. After they had left the Arkansaw, they had been obliged
to carry all their baggage on their backs; and, consequently, the useful
were preferred to the ornamental articles. The ammunition, tools,
leather-leggings, boots, and moccasins, had been considered absolutely
requisite. They had left behind their uniform clothing; and, when they
entered Santa Fe, Mr. Pike was dressed in a pair of blue trowsers,
moccasins, a blanket-coat, and a red cap. His men had leggings, cloths
round their waists, and leather coats: there was not a hat among the
whole party. This appearance was extremely mortifying to them all,
especially as soldiers; and it made no very favourable impression on the
people of Santa Fe. They were asked, by many of the common people,
whether they had lived in houses, or in camps, like the Indians; or
whether, in their country, the people wore hats.
They were conducted to the government-house, where they dismounted. On
entering it they were conducted through various rooms, the floors of all
which were covered with the skins of buffaloes, bears, or other animals.
Here they underwent an examination, by the governor, respecting their
objects and number. The conference terminated amicably; but the governor
informed Mr. Pike that he must be conducted to Chihuahua, a town in the
province of New Biscay, and upwards of three hundred leagues distant.
Nineteenth Day's Instruction.