_Narrative of_ MR. WELD'S _return from Richmond to
Philadelphia, through the central parts of Virginia._
Having continued at _Richmond_ somewhat more than a week, Mr. Weld
mounted his horse, and, accompanied by his servant, proceeded towards
the _South-west_ or _Green Mountains_.
The country around Richmond is sandy; but it is not so much so, nor so
flat, as on the south side of James River, towards the sea. When Mr.
Weld was here it wore a most pleasing aspect. The first week in May had
arrived; the trees had acquired a considerable part of their foliage;
and the air, in the woods, was perfumed with the fragrant smell of
numberless flowers and flowering shrubs. The music of the birds also was
delightful: the notes of the mocking-bird or Virginia nightingale, in
particular, were extremely melodious.
In this part of America there is a singular bird, called whipper-will,
or whip-poor-will, which has obtained its name from the plaintive noise
that it makes. This it commences every evening about dusk, and continues
through the greatest part of the night. The frogs in America make a most
singular noise. Some of them absolutely whistle; and others croak so
loudly, that it is difficult, at times, to tell whether the sound
proceeds from a calf or a frog. Mr. Weld, whilst walking in the meadows,
was more than once deceived by it. The largest kinds are called
bull-frogs: they chiefly live in pairs, and are never found but where
there is good water; their bodies measure from four to seven inches, and
their legs are of proportionate length. These animals are extremely
active, and take prodigious leaps.
In one part of his journey, the road extended almost wholly through
pine-forests, and was very lonely. Night came on before he reached the
end of it; and, as commonly happens with travellers in this part of the
world, he soon lost his way. A light, however, seen through the trees,
seemed to indicate that a house was not far distant. His servant eagerly
rode up to it, but the poor fellow's consternation was great indeed when
he observed it moving from him, presently coming back, and then, with
swiftness, departing into the woods. Mr. Weld was himself at a loss to
account for this singular appearance, till, after having proceeded a
little further, he observed the same sort of light in many other places;
and, dismounting from his horse to examine a bush, where one of these
sparks appeared to have fallen, he found that it proceeded from a
fire-fly. In the present instance Mr. Weld was much surprised; but, as
the summer advanced, these flies appeared every night. After a light
shower in the afternoon, this gentleman says he has seen the woods
sparkling with them in every direction. The light is emitted from the
tail, and the animal has the power of emitting it or not at pleasure.
After wandering about till near eleven o'clock, he came at last to a
house, where he obtained information respecting the road: and, about
midnight, he arrived at a miserable tavern. During the next day's ride
he observed a great number of snakes, which were now beginning to come
forth from their holes.
The _South-west Mountains_ run nearly parallel to the _Blue Ridge_, and
are the first that are seen in Virginia, on going up the country, from
the sea-coast. They are not lofty, and ought indeed rather to be called
hills than mountains. These mountains are not seen till the traveller
comes within a few miles of them; and the ascent is so gradual, that he
reaches their top almost without perceiving it.
The soil is here a deep clay, particularly well suited to the culture of
grain and clover, and it produces abundant crops.
The salubrity of the climate, in this part of Virginia, is equal also
to that of any part of the United States; and the inhabitants have, in
consequence, a healthy and ruddy appearance, totally different from that
of the residents in the low country.
In these mountains live several gentlemen of large property, who farm
their own land. Among the number was Mr. Jefferson, the vice-president
of the United States. His house was about three miles from
Charlottesville, and was most singularly situated, being built on the
top of a small mountain, the apex of which had been cut off. At this
time it was in an unfinished state; but, if carried on, according to a
plan which had been laid down, it promised to be one of the most elegant
private habitations in America. Several attempts have been made in this
neighbourhood, to bring the manufacture of wine to perfection; none of
them, however, have succeeded to the wish of the parties concerned in
it.
The country between the South-west Mountains and the Blue Ridge is very
fertile, and is much more closely inhabited than that in the lower parts
of Virginia. The climate is good, and the people have a healthy and
robust appearance. Several valuable mines of iron and copper have been
discovered here.
Having crossed the South-west Mountains, Mr. Weld proceeded to
_Lynchburgh_, a town on the south side of _Fluvanna River_, and one
hundred and fifty miles beyond Richmond. This town contained about one
hundred houses; and a warehouse for the inspection of tobacco, where
about two thousand hogsheads were annually inspected. It had been built
within the last fifteen years, and, in consequence of its advantageous
situation for trade, was rapidly increasing.
Between Lynchburgh and the Blue Mountains, the country is rough and
hilly, and but thinly inhabited. The few inhabitants, however, who are
seen here, are uncommonly robust and tall: it is rare to observe a man
amongst them who is not six feet high. The Blue Ridge is thickly covered
with large trees, to the very summit. Some of the mountains are rugged
and stony; others are not so; and on the latter the soil is rich and
fertile. It is only in particular places that this ridge can be crossed;
and at some of the gaps the ascent is steep and difficult.
The _Peaks of Otter_, near which Mr. Weld crossed it, are the highest
mountains in the Blue Ridge, and, measured from their bases, they are
supposed to be more lofty than any others in North America. The
principal peak is said to be about four thousand feet in perpendicular
height.
Beyond the Blue Ridge, Mr. Weld observed very few settlements, till he
approached _Fincastle_. This town is about twenty miles from the
mountains, and fifteen south of _Fluvanna River_. It was only begun
about the year 1790; yet, when Mr. Weld was there, it contained sixty
houses, and was rapidly increasing. The inhabitants consisted
principally of Germans.
On the eastern side of the Blue Mountains, cotton grows extremely well;
and, in winter, the snow scarcely ever remains more than a day or two
upon the ground. On the opposite side, cotton never comes to perfection;
the winters are severe, and the fields are covered with snow for many
successive weeks. In every farm-yard are seen sleighs or sledges, a kind
of carriages that are used for travelling upon the snow.
In this part of America, the soil consists chiefly of a rich brown
mould, in which white clover grows spontaneously. To have a fertile
meadow, it is only necessary to leave a piece of ground to the hand of
nature for one year. A bed of limestone also runs entirely through the
country.
It appeared to Mr. Weld that there was no part of America where the
climate would be more congenial to the constitution of a native of Great
Britain or Ireland than this. The frost in winter is more regular, but
is not more severe than what commonly takes place in those islands.
During summer the heat is somewhat greater; but there is not a night in
the year in which a blanket is not found comfortable. Fever and ague are
disorders here unknown; and the air is so salubrious, that persons who
come from the low country, afflicted with those disorders; get rid of
them in a short time.
In the western part of the country there are several medicinal springs,
to which, about the end of summer, great numbers of people resort, as
much for the sake of escaping the heat in the low country, as for
drinking the waters. Those that are most frequented are called the
_Sweet Springs_; but there are others in _Jackson's Mountains_, a ridge
that runs between the Blue Mountains and the Alleghany. One of these is
warm, and another quite hot. There is also a sulphur spring near them,
into which, if the leaves of trees fall, they become thickly incrusted
with sulphur, in a very short time; and silver, if put into them, will
be turned black almost immediately.
Mr. Weld, now bending his course in a northerly direction, again crossed
the _Fluvanna River_. About ten miles from this stream, there is, among
the mountains, a deep cleft or chasm, about two miles long, and, in some
places, three hundred feet deep. Over one part of this is a natural
arch, called _Rockbridge_, which consists of a solid mass of stone, or
of several stones so strongly cemented together that they appear but as
one. The road extends over this natural bridge. On one side of it is a
parapet or wall of fixed rocks, but on the other there is a gradual
slope, to the very brink of the chasm. The slope is thickly covered with
large trees, principally cedars and pines. The whole width of the bridge
is about eighty feet: the road runs nearly along the middle of it, and
is passed daily by waggons.
At the distance of a few yards from the bridge there is a narrow path,
which winds, along the sides of the fissure, and amidst immense rocks
and trees, down to the bottom of the chasm. Here the stupendous arch
appears in all its glory, and seems even to touch the skies. The height,
to the top of the parapet, is two hundred and thirteen feet. The rocks
are of limestone, and nearly perpendicular; and the sides of the chasm
are thickly clad with trees, wherever there is space sufficient to admit
of their growth. A small stream runs at the bottom of the fissure, over
beds of rock, and adds much to the beauty of the scene.
About fifty miles beyond Rockbridge, there is another remarkable natural
curiosity: a large cavern, known by the name of _Maddison's Cave_. It is
in the heart of a mountain, and about two hundred feet high. Persons who
reside in a house, not far distant from this cave, act as guides, and
use, as lights, splinters from the wood of the pitch pine-tree, a bundle
of which they carry with them for this purpose. This cave is of great
extent, and is divided into many large, and singularly-shaped
apartments, covered with stalactites, or petrifactions, at the top and
sides. Before these were blackened by the smoke of the torches, they are
said to have been extremely beautiful. The floor is of a deep sandy
earth, which has been repeatedly dug up, for the purpose of obtaining
saltpetre, with which it is strongly impregnated.
The country immediately behind the Blue Mountains, is agreeably
diversified with hill and dale, and abounds in extensive tracts of rich
land. Clover grows here in great luxuriance. Wheat also is raised, and
in crops as abundant as in any part of the United States. Tobacco is not
grown, except for private use. The climate is not here so warm as in the
lower parts of the country, on the eastern side of the mountains.
As Mr. Weld passed along, he met great numbers of people who were
proceeding from Kentucky, and from the state of Tenessee, towards
Philadelphia and Baltimore. He also saw many others, who were going in a
contrary direction, to "explore," as they called it; that is, to search
for, lands in the western country, conveniently situated for new
settlements. These all travelled on horseback, armed with pistols and
swords; and each had a large blanket, folded up under his saddle, for
sleeping in, whenever they were obliged to pass the night in the woods.
Of all the uncouth human beings that Mr. Weld met with in America, the
people from the western country were the most so. Their curiosity was
boundless. Often has he been stopped abruptly by them, even in solitary
parts of the road; and, without any further preface, has been asked
where he came from? if he was acquainted with any news? where bound to?
and what was his name?
The first town that Mr. Weld reached was _Lexington_, a neat little
place, which had contained about one hundred dwelling-houses, a
court-house, and a gaol; but most of these had been destroyed by fire,
just before he was there. Great numbers of Irish are settled in this
place. Thirty miles further on is _Staunton_. This town carries on a
considerable trade with the back country, and contains nearly two
hundred dwellings, mostly built of stone.
_Winchester_ stands one hundred miles north of Staunton, and is the
largest town in the United States, on the western side of the Blue
Mountains. The houses were, at this time, estimated at three hundred and
fifty, and the inhabitants at two thousand. There were four churches,
which, as well as the houses, were plainly built. The streets were
regular, but very narrow. There was nothing particularly deserving of
attention, either in this place, or in any of the small towns that have
been mentioned.
Mr. Weld reached the _Potomac_, at the place where that river passes
through the Blue Ridge; and where a scene is exhibited which has been
represented as one of the most "stupendous in nature, and even worth a
voyage across the Atlantic." The approach towards it is wild and
romantic. After crossing a number of small hills, which rise in
succession, one above another, the traveller at last perceives a break
in the Blue Ridge; at the same time, the road, suddenly turning, winds
down a long and steep hill, shaded with lofty trees, whose branches
unite above. On one side of the road are large heaps of rocks, overhead,
which threaten destruction to any one who passes beneath them; on the
other, a deep precipice presents itself, at the bottom of which is heard
the roaring of the waters, that are concealed from the eye, by the
thickness of the foliage. Towards the end of this hill, about sixty feet
above the level of the water, stand a tavern and a few houses; and from
some fields in the rear of them, the passage of the river, through the
mountain, is seen to great advantage.
The Potomac, on the left, winds through a fertile country, towards the
mountain. On the right flows the _Shenandoah_. Uniting together, they
roll on, in conjunction, through the gap; then, suddenly expanding to
the breadth of about four hundred yards, they pass on towards the sea,
and are finally lost to the view, amidst surrounding hills.
After crossing the Potomac, Mr. Weld passed on to _Frederic_, in
Maryland, which has already been mentioned, and thence to Baltimore. The
country between Frederic and Baltimore is by no means so rich as that
west of the Blue Ridge, but it is tolerably well cultivated. Iron and
copper are found here in many places.
From Baltimore Mr. Weld returned to _Philadelphia_, where he arrived on
the fourteenth of June, after an absence of about three months.
* * * * *
We must now return to Pittsburgh, for the purpose of proceeding, from
that place, with M. Michaux a French naturalist of considerable
eminence, in a journey through Kentucky, Tenessee, North and South
Carolina.
Ninth Day's Instruction.