_Narrative of Mr._ FEARON'S _Journey from Philadelphia to
Pittsburgh._
In the month of October, 1817, Mr. Fearon left Philadelphia for
Pittsburgh. He passed through an extensive, fertile, well-cultivated,
and beautiful tract of land called the _Great Valley_. Farms in this
district are chiefly owned by Dutch and Germans, and their descendants.
They consist of from fifty to two hundred acres each; and are
purchasable at the rate of about L.46 sterling per acre, the buildings
included; and, in well-improved land, the average produce of wheat may
be estimated at twenty-five bushels.
At the distance of about twenty miles from Philadelphia there is a
copper and zinc mine. Iron ore abounds throughout the state of
Pennsylvania; and many of the rocks are of limestone. A coarse kind of
grey marble is found in great quantity, and is used for steps and
chimney-pieces.
The towns of _Lancaster_, _Harrisburgh_, and _Carlisle_, through which
Mr. Fearon passed, are all considerable, both in extent and population.
[_Lancaster_ is nearly the largest inland town of North America. It
contains upwards of nine hundred houses, built chiefly of brick and
stone, and, in general, two stories high. It has also six churches, a
market-house, and a gaol. The streets are laid out regularly, and cross
each other at right angles. Several different kinds of wares are
manufactured here, and chiefly by German mechanics. The rifled barrel
guns made at this place are considered to have great excellence. In
1787, a college was founded at Lancaster, and named Franklin College, in
honour of Dr. Franklin. The founders were an association of Germans, who
were desirous of establishing a seminary for the education of their
sons, in their own language and habits. But it has not flourished; and,
in 1815, the number of students did not exceed fifty.]
Lancaster, Harrisburgh, and Carlisle, each contain many excellent brick
buildings, and the usual erections of market-houses, gaols, and
churches, all evincing an extent of national property, and an
advancement to European establishments, truly extraordinary, when we
recollect that this is a country which may be said to be but of
yesterday. The German character is very prevalent throughout this state;
and even the original language is preserved.
[At _Carlisle_ there are many excellent shops and warehouses. This place
has a college, which was founded in 1783, by Mr. John Dickenson of
Pennsylvania. The number of students is about one hundred and forty; and
there are professors of logic, metaphysics, languages, natural
philosophy, and chemistry.]
Mr. Fearon next arrived at _Chambersburgh_, a town which contains about
two hundred and forty houses, and two or three churches. He here secured
a place, in the stage, to Pittsburgh, and set off the next morning at
three o'clock. About eight he arrived at _Loudon_, a small town at the
foot of the north mountain, one of the Alleghany ridges, and at this
time containing seventeen log and twenty frame or brick houses. The
tavern was cheerless and dirty.
On the road Mr. Fearon counted thirty regular stage-waggons, which were
employed in conveying goods to and from Pittsburgh. Each of these was
drawn by four horses; and the articles carried in them, were chiefly
hardware, and silk, linen, cotton, and woollen goods. The waggons, in
return, conveyed from Pittsburgh farming produce, and chiefly flour. It
is, however, necessary to observe that this is the only trading waggon
route to the whole western country; and that there is no water-carriage
through this part of America.
The road, for a considerable distance, was excellent, and was part of a
new national turnpike, which had been projected to extend from the head
of the river Potomac to Wheeling. This road, when completed, will be of
great advantage to the whole western country. The stage passed over the
_North Mountain_, whence there was a most extensive view, of a wide and
beautiful valley, containing several thousand acres, which have not yet
been cultivated. The prospect combined some grand mountain-scenery, and
was the most magnificent that Mr. Fearon had ever beheld. The travellers
passed through a little town situated in the midst of this apparently
trackless wild.
They afterwards overtook twenty small family waggons, those chiefly of
emigrants from one part of the state to another. These persons were
travelling in company, and thus formed an unity of interest, for the
purpose of securing, when necessary, an interchange of assistance. The
difficulties they experienced, in passing through this mountainous
district, were very great.
Mr. Fearon and the other stage-passengers supped and slept at a place
called _Bloody Run_, having, for several miles, proceeded over roads
that were almost impassable. Early the next morning they again set out;
and they arrived at _Bedford_ about nine o'clock. [This little town,
like most others on the great western road, trades in all kinds of corn,
flour, and provisions.] They were not, however, permitted to stop here,
as the stage-proprietor had a house further on, where they breakfasted.
In passing over a range of mountains called the _Dry Ridge_, the view
was peculiarly magnificent. The eye, at one glance, took in a varied and
most interesting view of mountain scenery, intermingled with wooded
vales, and much fertile land. The travellers continued to overtake many
waggons of emigrants from different states.
About five o'clock in the afternoon they reached the top of the
_Alleghany Mountains_. The road had of late been so bad, that they had
walked more than sixteen miles, leaving the stage far behind. The
character of the mountain _inhabitants_ appeared to be cold, friendless,
unfeeling, callous, and selfish. All the emigrants with whom Mr. Fearon
conversed, complained of the enormous charges at taverns. Log-houses are
the only habitations for many miles. These are formed of the trunks of
trees, about twenty feet in length, and six inches in diameter, cut at
the ends, and placed on each other. The roof is framed in a similar
manner. In some houses there are windows; in others the door performs
the double office of window and entrance. The chimney is erected on the
outside, and in a similar manner to the body of the house. The hinges of
the doors are generally of wood; and locks are not used. In some of the
houses there are two apartments; in others but one, for all the various
operations of cooking, eating, and sleeping; and even the pigs come in
for their due share of the log residence. About eleven o'clock at
night, the travellers safely arrived at _Somerset_, a small town
distant two hundred and thirty-seven miles from Philadelphia.
In the morning of their third day's journey, they crossed _Laurel Hill_.
The vegetation on this ridge appears superior to that of the Allegheny.
The mountain called _Little Chesnut Ridge_ succeeds Laurel Hill. The
difficulties of the road were here extremely great. These arose not only
from the height of the mountains, but from the enormous stones and deep
mud-holes with which the road abounded. The trees on Chesnut Ridge are
chiefly oak and chesnut; and the soil appeared to be chalky. At half
past ten at night they arrived at _Greensburg_, [a town built upon the
summit of a hill. The land, in its vicinity is, in general, very
fertile; and the inhabitants, who are of German origin, cultivate wheat,
rye, and oats, with great success.]
The party started, on the fourth day, at four in the morning, and with
the high treat of a turnpike-road; but the advantages, arising from
this, were but of short continuance. They had to descend _Turtle Creek
Hill_, the road over which, in consequence of late rains, had become, if
possible, even worse than those across Laurel Hill. The passengers all
got out; and, up to their knees in mud, they took their turns, in
holding up the stage. This tract bore decided evidence of being embedded
with coal. About two o'clock they reached _Pittsburg_.
From Chambersburgh to Greensburgh the condition of the people is that of
an absence of wealth and of the conveniences of life, with, however, the
means of obtaining a sufficient quantity of food. The blacksmith and the
tavern-keeper are almost the only occupations. The former earns from
twenty shillings and sixpence to twenty-seven shillings per week; and
the profits of the latter must be very great, if we may judge from the
high charges and bad quality of the accommodations. From Greensburgh to
Pittsburgh the improvement, in size and quality, of the houses, is
evident, and the cultivation and condition of the land is much superior
to those of the country through which the travellers had before past.
_Pittsburg_ is, in several points of view, a most interesting town. Its
situation, which is truly picturesque, is at the termination of two
rivers, and at the commencement of a third river, that has a direct
communication with the ocean, though at the immense distance of two
thousand five hundred miles. This place possesses an exhaustless store
of coal.
During the great American war, Pittsburg was an important military post
called _Du Quesne_, and was remarkable for two signal defeats of the
British troops. It is, at present, a place of great importance: the
connecting link between _new_ and _old_ America; and though it is not a
"Birmingham," as the natives bombastically style it, yet it certainly
contains the seeds of numerous important and valuable manufactories.
Agricultural produce finds here a ready and advantageous market. Farming
in this neighbourhood is not, indeed, the most profitable mode of
employing capital; but here, as in other parts of the union, it is an
independent mode of life. The farmer, however, must labour hard with his
own hands. The labourers, or "helps," as they style themselves, are paid
high wages, and are not to be relied on. In many instances they expect
to sit down at table with their master, to live as well as he, and to be
on terms of equality with every branch of the family.
Mr. Fearon remained at Pittsburgh several days, during which time the
rain never ceased. The smoke, also, from the different manufactories, is
extreme, giving, to the town and its inhabitants, a very sombre aspect.
The articles manufactured here are various, and chiefly of copper, iron,
and glass. In one of the glass-warehouses, Mr. Fearon saw chandeliers
and numerous other articles, of a very splendid description, in cut
glass. Among the latter was a pair of decanters, cut from a London
pattern, the price of which was to be eight guineas. And it is
remarkable that the demand for these articles of elegant luxury lies in
the western states; the inhabitants of eastern America being still
importers from the "old country." Not thirty years ago, the whole right
bank of the Ohio was termed the "Indian side." Spots in Tenessee, in
Ohio and Kentucky, which, within the lifetime of even young men,
witnessed only the arrow and the scalping knife, now present, to the
traveller, articles of elegance, and modes of luxury, which might rival
the displays of London and of Paris: within the last half century, the
beasts of the forest, and men more savage than the beasts, were the only
inhabitants of the whole of that immense tract, which is peculiarly
denominated the western country. This tract is now partially inhabited;
and promises soon to be generally so, by civilized man, possessed of the
arts and pursuits of civilized life.
On the whole, Pittsburgh is a very important town. When Mr. Fearon was
here, it was supposed to contain about ten thousand inhabitants.
The face of the country, beyond this town, is an uninterrupted level,
and many parts of it are occupied by agriculturists. Mr. Fearon,
however, was informed that there were still for sale one million of
acres of United States' land, at the rate of two dollars per acre, or
one dollar and sixty-four cents for prompt payment. The principal towns
are situated on the banks of the river. There are no canals, nor, indeed
is there much occasion for them, as the whole state abounds with rivers
and creeks, which fall into the Ohio.
The trees produced by the best kind of land are honey-locust, black
walnut, and beech; by land of second quality, the sugar maple tree,
sycamore, or butter-wood, and what is called white wood, which is used
for building and joiner's work; and land of the third quality produces
oak. There is but little underwood; for the great height and the
spreading tops of the trees, prevent the sun from penetrating to the
ground, and nourishing inferior articles of vegetation.
The winters are severe, and of from three to four months continuance,
with a keen and dry air, and cloudless sky. During summer excessive heat
prevails, with heavy dews at night. In the spring there are cold and
heavy rains. The autumns are fine, and are followed by what is called
"Indian summer," which is truly delightful. Along the route that Mr.
Fearon had travelled in this state, there was scarcely an elevation
which could be called a hill, with exception of rising grounds on the
margins of rivers. The dreary monotony of limited views, of such endless
uniformity, produces sensations of the most depressing melancholy. The
atmosphere, after a hot day, causes headaches, which frequently
terminate in intermittent fevers.
Judging from the beds of the rivers, and the quality of the water, Mr.
Fearon presumes that coal must be abundant. Salt is found in several
situations, particularly on the Kenaway. There is much limestone. The
wild animals, in this part of America, are neither numerous, nor
troublesome.
The interior population of the United States, Mr. Fearon considers, may
be divided into three classes: first, the "squatter," or man, who "sets
himself down," upon land which is not his own, and for which he pays
nothing; cultivates a sufficient extent of ground to supply himself and
his family with the necessaries of life, remains until he is
dissatisfied with his choice, has realized a sufficiency to become a
land-owner, or is expelled by the real proprietor. Second, the small
farmer, who has recently emigrated, and has had barely sufficient to pay
the first instalment for his eighty or one hundred and sixty acres, of
two-dollar land; cultivates, or, what he calls, improves, from ten to
thirty acres; raises a sufficient "feed" for his family; is in a
condition, which, if compelled by legislative acts, or by external force
to endure, would be considered truly wretched; but, from being his own
master, and having made his own choice, joined with the consciousness,
that, though slowly, he is regularly advancing towards wealth, the
breath of complaint is seldom heard to escape from his lips. Third, the
wealthy, or "strong-handed" farmer, who owns from five to twelve hundred
acres, has from one-fourth to one-third under cultivation, of a kind
much superior to the former; raises live stock for the home, and
Atlantic city markets; sends beef, pork, cheese, lard, and butter, to
New Orleans: is a man of plain, business-like sense, though not in
possession, nor desirous, of a very cultivated intellect; understands
his own interest, and that of his country; and lives in sufficient
affluence, and is possessed of comfort, according to the American
acceptation of the term, but to which, an Englishman must feel inclined
to take an exception.
The management of farms is here full a century behind that in England:
there being a want of improved machinery for the promotion of economy in
time and labour; and no regular attention being paid to the condition of
live stock; while the mode of culture, in general, appears slovenly and
unsystematic.
* * * * *
On the subject of emigration to America, Mr. Fearon remarks, that the
capitalist will here receive legal interest of six or seven per cent.
for his money; and perhaps eight per cent. might be made upon good
security, as capital is wanted throughout the country. A London
shopkeeper, with a capital of three thousand pounds or upwards, and who
is well acquainted with the principles of business, might succeed.
Lawyers, doctors, clerks, shopmen, literary men, artists, and
schoolmasters, to use an American phrase, would "come to a bad market."
Mechanics are able to obtain employment, but many who have emigrated
have been lamentably deceived in their expectations. The person of small
property, who is desirous to live on the interest of his money, and
wants to remove to a cheaper country than England, should pause before
the object of his choice is America. From what Mr. Fearon had hitherto
seen of large towns, living is not, on the whole, cheaper than in the
English cities. In the interior it may be less expensive than in the
country parts of England; but such a man must, of necessity, have his
ideas of happiness associated with many sources of comfort and
gratification, which he would seek for in vain within the United States.
With regard to certain Yorkshire and Leicestershire manufacturers, in
whose welfare he was particularly interested, Mr. Fearon says, he was
convinced that they could not profitably succeed here.
Sixth Day's Instruction.