Stay in Darfur — Sheikh desires to depart — Presents of Saboun
— Inspectors — A Fair in the Desert — A Guide — A Blood-feud
— The Well of Daum — Hostile Tribe — A Flag of Truce —
Attack — An Interview — A Camel for a Camel — A Murder —
Harassing March — The Tibboo-Reshad — An Odd Sultan — Fresh
Persecution — Hungry Majesties — Loss of Three Slaves and an
Ass — The Sheikh in Love — Departure — Tibboo Camels —
Killing the Devil — Character — Thirst of the Desert.
When I arrived in Wadaï, my father, as I have said, had departed
for Tunis. He thought it was my fault that I had delayed so long to
come and join him; for he had written to the Sultan of Darfur and
the Fakih Malik, praying them to allow me to depart. Confiding,
therefore, the care of his house, his children, and his crops,
to my uncle Zarouk, he had departed. This annoyed me much, and I
resolved not to lay down the staff of the traveller, but to hasten
after my father. The kindness of Sultan Saboun, however, made me
stay. He sent me as presents many fine horses, beautiful slaves,
and robes of price, which softened my sorrow. But as Ahmed-el-Fasi
had succeeded my father in the post of vizier, and was a personal
enemy, I soon found that he was undermining me. The Sultan began
to look at me with coldness, and his presents ceased.
On the other hand, my uncle Zarouk seized on the revenue of my land,
and gave me only sufficient to prevent my dying of hunger. He
forbade me all interference in the management of my father’s
property, telling me that I should spend it foolishly. For these
reasons I was soon disgusted with Wadaï, and asked permission of
the Sultan to leave the country and depart for Fezzan. The yearly
caravan was preparing to start. The permission I required was easily
accorded by means of the Shereef Ahmed. I soon got ready, bought
water-skins, provisions, and other necessary articles, and the day
was at length fixed. Then I begged of Sultan Saboun some camels to
carry my baggage; but he only sent me one young one, incapable as
yet of undergoing the fatigue of travelling and carrying a burden. I
complained aloud; but the Shereef Ahmed abused me for my greediness,
and said the Sultan owed me nothing. I suppressed my disappointment,
and exchanged the young camel and a little additional money for a
strong one, and thereupon left Warah. But the caravan had scarcely
reached the district of the Beni-Mahamyd, on the edge of the desert,
when some messengers from Saboun brought me as a present from him
three young slave-girls, a male slave, two excellent camels, and
a fat bull, with which to make _cadyd_, or dried meat. We killed
the bull at once, and began to prepare the cadyd, giving thanks to
the Sultan. When the meat was dried we filled our skins once more
and departed. We had already received the visit of the inspectors,
whose business it is to see that we are not taking away any free
persons into slavery. Every slave in the caravan, young and old,
was questioned individually. The inspectors liberate every one
who can show himself to be of free origin, or prove that he was
a Muslim before he was taken; also, any slave that may have been
fraudulently taken from his owner.
For five days at the outset of our journey we traversed great plains
of pasturage, where the Mahamyd wander with their flocks. At the
end of this time we reached a well, at which it is customary for
the Arabs, even Bidegats from the north-east of Wadaï and other
wandering tribes, to encamp and meet the caravan,—holding a kind
of fair,—selling or letting out to the Jellabs, or the travellers,
provisions, camels, utensils for the journey, skins, ropes, &c. God
is my witness that I forget the name of the well. We halted there
two days, and the camels were turned loose to feed.
Five days more took us to the well of Daum, so called from the
trees of that name that surround it. Now it happened that our
guide, or caravan master, named Ahmed, was an old man, who had
passed the vicissitudes of this life. He belonged to a tribe of the
Tibboos, named in Fezzan the Tibboo-Reshad,—or Tibboos of the
Mountains. Ahmed had formerly killed a member of another tribe;
and ever since the people had been waiting for the opportunity
of vengeance. After the accident, the murderer had fled to
Dar-Seleih. Here he remained ten years, not daring to return to
his tribe; but at length the love of home became too strong, and he
desired to see his country, and the huts thereof, with his ancient
dwelling-place. He believed that in ten years his visit would be
forgotten; and he departed with our caravan as a guide, leaving a
comfortable position in Wadaï, where he had amassed wealth, which,
along with his age, produced him great respect, and allowed him to
fear nothing but God.
When he started with us he had with him more than a hundred and
thirty persons, all relatives. The rest of the caravan was composed
of fifteen Wadaïans and five Arabs, myself, a man of Tripoli, named
the Reis Abdallah; a Fezzani, Mohammed Khayr Yasir; another Fezzani,
the Seid Ahmed, from the village of Zouylah; and one named Khalyl,
of Tripoli. In proceeding towards the well of Daum we lost our way
in the desert, and fearing, if we moved on, that we should only lose
time, we halted, made our camels kneel, and buried our water-skins,
as deep as possible, beneath the baggage, to preserve them from
the heat of the sun. Our caravan started, Ahmed took with him a
certain number of his cousins, and searched through the desert to
the right and to the left, seeking for the well which we ought by
this time to have reached. They remained a long time absent, and
the day was far advanced when they returned. Their faces were grey
with dust; but they brought joyful tidings, namely, that the well
was near at hand. So we urged on our camels, and at last beheld the
daum-trees in the distance. Every one began to cry out, “There
they are! there they are! Those are the trees under which we are
to rest this day!” We had scarcely uttered these words, when we
beheld in front of us a troop of the Tibboos, called Turkman-Tibboos,
and felt alarm. They rarely come to meet caravans, for they station
towards Libya, divided into peoples of varying numbers, each with
a Sultan, or king. The tribe that had met us had its principal
station at a place called Marmar. They had known, for two or three
months, by means of a traveller from Wadaï, that the master of
our caravan was to be Ahmed, against whom they had a blood-feud;
and it was for this reason that they waylaid us on our journey.
They stood right in our path, and sent forward a man on a camel,
who galloped rapidly towards us, as swift as a horse. It is
marvellous to see how skilfully these Tibboo tribes manage their
dromedaries, or riding-camels. They train and exercise them like
horses, to numerous delicate manœuvres, and have no other rein
but the _zimâm_, or light cord, which by one end is tied to a
hole pierced in the moving edge of the animal’s nostril. Nearly
all these marauding Tibboos are clothed in sheep-skins with the
wool on. He who advanced towards us had the litham over his face;
that is to say, part of the stuff of his turban was wrapped three
or four times round his head and visage, so that the eyes only
were to be seen. When he was near to us he cried out, in his own
language,—“Ho! people of the caravan, the Sultan is coming with
his soldiers to the well. He forbids you to approach it. Know that
you shall only do so when you have given up your guide to be killed,
in expiation of the murder of one of our brothers. What are your
intentions? Tell me, that I may inform the Sultan.”
One of the Tibboos of our caravan translated what the messenger said,
and we all decided at once that we would not deliver up Ahmed to his
enemies, and that if the Tibboos asked only for a rope’s end they
should not have it. “Retrace thy steps,” said we to the envoy,
“and tell thy master that we have nothing to do with him—that
we have no one to give up. Go!”
The messenger galloped swiftly away to report our answer, and the
Sultan prepared to attack us. Then the Tibboos, who formed part of
our caravan, separated from us, and, with the exception of Ahmed
and his family, went off to some distance. Our party, counting
Ahmed, only contained twenty-five individuals,[57] not counting
the slaves, who were in great numbers. As we approached the well,
the Tibboos advanced in a mass, all mounted two-and-two on about
sixty or seventy camels. They rushed towards us, furiously casting
their javelins. We, that is to say the five Arabs, waited for their
approach, and fired a volley at them. Surprised, they turned back
and fled like beaten wolves. We remained masters of the well, and
encamped there. We drank, and allowed our camels to pasture on the
wild herbage of the neighbourhood.
We thought that these savage Tibboos, whom we had so easily put
to flight, had returned to their dwelling-places, and we rested
at our well for two whole days; but, on the third, we suddenly
heard loud cries and frightful imprecations. We sent to see what
was the matter, and saw four camels resting near a body of armed
people. Near them was our guide Ahmed, who stood amidst his people
and the Wadaïans of our caravan. With the armed strangers was an
old man, who seemed to be their chief. He had a piece of carpet
tissue rolled round his head, four or six fingers in breadth, and
about a cubit long. This old man was crouching down, like a dog or
a hyæna, on his heels. The chief of the Wadaïans said to him,—
“Wherefore dost thou return? Thou hadst departed. What dost thou
want? What dost thou expect?”
“Know,” was the reply, “that I am the Sultan of these deserts;
and that I have as many soldiers as you can count. What do I want? I
come to advise you to deliver up Ahmed, if you wish to depart without
blows or wounds. I know that you and I are not at war, but if you
refuse my request there will be danger. That Ahmed slew my cousin,
whom I loved as if he had been the son of my mother. It is my duty
to avenge my cousin, and cleanse myself from the shame of leaving
that murder unpunished.”
“But,” said the Wadaïan chief, “art thou not afraid of being
killed as thy cousin was killed?”
“I have no fear. He who kills me will be killed in his turn. We
never forget this duty—never abandon the vengeance of blood,
though we should be hacked to pieces with a knife.”
At these words of the obstinate old chief, Ahmed flew into a great
rage, and insulted him, and was going to kill him. We restrained
Ahmed; but, taking advantage of the agitation of all present, he
slipped behind the Tibboos, and hamstrung the Sultan’s camel. Then
the Sultan said to him,— “This, too, thou shalt dearly pay
for. My camel shall be avenged; and I will yet hamstring many
of thy camels. As for you all, not a moment of repose shall you
have. I shall be ever at your heels to torment you.” These words
now irritated the chief of the Wadaïans, who gave the old Sultan
a heavy blow with his whip over the loins, and said,—“Be off,
go to the devil, and do as thou pleasest! May Heaven confound thee,
and he who begat thee!”
The Sultan got up without wincing, and marched off with his men,
affecting an air of contempt, and stifling his anger.
The day passed away. We filled our skins; arranged our luggage;
but next morning, just as we were about to load the beasts of burden
and get ready to march, the cry was heard in the caravan: “Wait,
wait; one of the Wadaïan camels has disappeared!” We paused;
and presently afterwards louder cries arose. The caravan was in the
greatest state of alarm; every one inquired what was the matter;
and at last we learned that the Turkman-Tibboos had not only stolen
a camel, but had seized one of our Wadaïans and slaughtered him. We
divided at once into two parties, one of which hastened to the place
where our companion had been slain, whilst the other remained to
guard the slaves, the baggage, and the Camels. We found the victim
bathed in blood, and struggling in the convulsions of death. In the
distance we saw a cloud of camels, each with two men on its back,
their faces shrouded in black lithams. They looked like crows perched
upon camels. They managed their beasts with wonderful cleverness,
and horses are not more docile and eager in the field of battle.
One of these Tibboos came forward to our party and cried: “Whither
are you going? what do you expect to do? For the camel of which
you deprived us by ham-stringing yesterday we have taken a better
one. The price of the lash with the whip is the life of one of your
best men—that one who lies killed there. But this is not all;
you will surely repent; and if it were not for your guns we would
ride down on you and cut you all to pieces.”
We answered by firing on the troop in the distance; and they
instantly fled, until they were like black spots on the horizon.
As for the Tibboos who originally formed part of our caravan,
they remained thenceforward separate from us, marching alone. We
were very much troubled and disquieted, fearing a sudden attack. We
calculated all chances and raised the camp, marching away from the
well; but the Tibboos accompanied us afar off, now and then making a
false charge. They were present all the day long, now approaching,
now flying, manœuvring all round, till the black night drew
on. Then we halted, needing repose; but the furious Tibboos left
us no peace. In spite of the darkness, one portion of these kept
constantly disturbing us, whilst the other portion slept. Their
object was to wear us out; and as we were few in numbers we could
only get a very little rest. We knew that if any one of us were
taken prisoner by the Tibboos he would instantly be killed. We dared
not make reprisals, even if one of them had come amongst us; for we
knew that this would exasperate them into a general attack. In their
eyes, to kill a man is nothing. We resolved on a system of passive
resistance, merely repelling their attacks. So we marched on for
twenty days in this dreadful state, ever in uncertainty and fear,
until we came to the territories of another Sultan,—the country
of the Tibboo-Reshad, or Tibboos of the Mountains. This is an arid
region, covered with wells: the vegetation is meagre and rare.
But we were now, at length, free from disquietude, and could rejoice
at being delivered from our enemies. It was midday when we entered
the territory of the Tibboo-Reshad; but we continued our march,
and towards evening halted. We now turned out our camels to graze,
having no further fear of the rapacity of the Turkmans; but, as
the sun was setting, we beheld approaching us whole swarms of the
Tibboo-Reshad, who surrounded us like a cloud, though at a little
distance. As each group arrived it alighted and encamped near the
previous comers. We were watching this movement tranquilly, when we
heard in the distance the sound of small tableh, or tambourines; upon
which all the new-comers began crying: “Here comes the Sultan!”
Presently a very common individual, with his wife behind him, came
mounted on a camel. This was the only woman present. On reaching his
people they saluted him, and helped his queen to dismount. Then they
fixed up four stakes, and surrounded them with a melayeh; making a
miserable little tent for their majesties. A Tibboo came forward and
said pompously: “People of the caravan, come and do homage to the
Sultan!” We went; and when we drew near this caricature of royalty,
we were ordered to sit down in three rows. An individual, dressed in
a sheep-skin, announced himself a dragoman, and stood in front of us
to convey the gracious commands of his sovereign. It appeared that
he expected a good present; and told us that he wished to eat meat,
which he had not done for a long time, and that he expected us to
prepare a meal for the whole of his people. “Mind, be careful in
the cookery,” he added; “let all be good and soon ready.” We
answered that his commands should be complied with.
Whilst we were at work, the Sultan and his wife came out of
their tent and drew near to us, so that I could examine them at my
leisure. The Sultan was an old man,—decrepit, dry, lank, with thin
beard, hollow cheeks, awkward gait, and dressed in a blue shirt,
like that sometimes worn in Egypt. His countenance was wrapped in
a black litham, so that he looked like a Copt in an ill-temper. In
his left hand he carried a miserable lance with a broad head;
and in his right a forked stick, used commonly by the Tibboos to
drive their camels and push aside the branches of trees. As for
the Sultana, she was a stunted old lady in a rumpled dress, and
looked comically ugly. Both these potentates prowled through our
tents without addressing a word of politeness to any one. When the
supper was prepared, which was by nightfall, they and their troop
ate heartily, and expressed their satisfaction by ordering a similar
repast to be got ready next day before the rising of the sun.
All this was not very pleasant; and we passed a short, uncomfortable
night. We expected, after breakfast, however, to get away without
further trouble; and, indeed, the strangers allowed us to depart and
travel through the day. But at sunset the Sultan appeared again with
his Tibboos, encamped near us, and claimed supper again. We began to
fear that this famished Sultan would devour all our provisions. In
the morning, having fed him once more, we proceeded over a rocky
road, and by night reached a valley between three mountains, which
we were told was the metropolis of that kingdom. Of course we had
a banquet to prepare, not only for him and his escort, but for all
his people. The hungry wretch, hearing that we had been attacked,
had come to meet us, though, probably, with no other object than
gormandising in this manner. There was no help. We had to feed the
whole people during our stay, which we were obliged to prolong a
little to take in a fresh provision of water.
The huts of the Tibboo-Reshad are set up at the foot of the
mountains. The country appears sad and miserable, the only riches
being some small flocks of sheep and goats, of which the owners drink
the milk: it is their great luxury. The only trees are the seyal
(_Mimosa seyal_ of Forskall) and some daums, the fruit of which
is eaten by the Tibboos. When a caravan passes, and a camel dies
of fatigue, these people seize the carcass and divide the flesh,
preparing cadyd from it. The day of our departure, in the morning,
just as we were about to start, I perceived that one of my slaves
was missing. He had escaped during the night, taking with him two
slave-girls, probably in order to sell them. We put off our journey
a day; but I spent money uselessly in endeavouring to get back
the fugitives. This, and other misfortunes, suggested to me the
inflection, that when a man refuses the good that is offered him,
he necessarily is forced to repent afterwards. When the idea of
this unlucky journey presented itself to me, Sultan Saboun tried to
dissuade me from it, advising me to remain in Wadaï until the return
of my father; but I was obstinate, and suffered in consequence.
The first of my tribulations was the loss of an excellent ass, which
I prized much. I used to ride it, and preferred it to a camel. Not
very long after we set out there was a frightful plain of sand,
which fatigued our beasts very much. I knew my ass carried me well,
and we often got a good way ahead. So, encouraged by this, I sat down
to rest, and allowed the whole troop to get a long way ahead of me,
thinking it would be easy to catch it up. When I tried, however,
having miscalculated, I found this not easy, and only succeeded
in reaching the rear-guard with great trouble. Now it happened
that behind the camels were marching numerous female slaves, one
of whom was of extraordinary beauty—a very pearl. My ass, which
was very tired, ran up to her, and placed itself by her side, as
if to ask the succour of her benevolence, showing her how fatigued
it was. I wished to lure it away; it grew obstinate; I kicked it
with my heels; it stumbled. The young girl and the other slaves
began to laugh at my plight, and say,—“Take away thy ass; go
far from us, and allow us to walk in peace.” It was impossible
for me to overcome the brute’s obstinacy; so I got down and gave
it a kick in the belly, whereupon it fell dead, as if I had struck
it with a knife. I remained stupified for awhile; but soon took off
its trappings, put them on my shoulders, and with great difficulty
reaching one of my camels, mounted it.
But my mind remained full of the beauty of the slave-girl, and I
began to inquire of what country she was, and who was her master. It
was told me that she belonged to one of our Tibboos, named Tchay;
and I at once went and proposed a bargain. “I will not sell my
slave,” said he, “except for four other slaves of the same
age; that is, I shall not sell her at all. I intend her to be the
governess of my house; I am not married; she shall be my wife.”
I insisted, however, and the Tibboo at length agreed to give her
to me for the most beautiful of my women, with a young virgin
slave and a stallion-camel. At nightfall, accordingly, he sent
her to me, and I sent the camel and my two slaves. When, however,
I led my new acquisition to my tent, I perceived at once that it
was not the one I had seen. This one appeared detestable to me. I
was in great distress, and sent a man to the Tibboo to explain the
mistake. But he answered that he had no slave but that one; that a
bargain was a bargain; and that he meant to abide by what had been
done. This embarrassed me; but after much praying and begging, and
many messages, I obtained my two slaves back in exchange for his one;
but he refused obstinately to give me back my camel. Then I began
to seek for the girl who had so fascinated me, and soon learned
that she belonged to another Tibboo, who loved her passionately,
and who was loved by her in turn; and that not for her weight in
gold would he part with her.
When we were about to start, once for all, from the Three Mountains,
we received a message that we were expected, each of us, to
give a measure of _dokhn_ (millet) to his majesty the Sultan,
and were obliged to comply. The grain was emptied out into a skin
and carried away. We thought this was the last extortion; but the
Sultan himself now appeared and began to ferret about our tents
and baggage, appropriating whatever he took a fancy to, cords,
baskets, &c., making presents to himself, and murmuring,—“I
am the Sultan of this country, the master of this route; whoever
refuses me anything shall not depart.” No sooner was this visit
satisfactorily concluded, than his mercenary queen came to take
her share of the spoils; and then the common Tibboos, each of whom
pretended to be a king’s son. Thus no apparent object of any value
was left us. We came into the country rich, and we left it poor. For
myself, I departed almost with tears in my eyes, thinking of the
male slave who had escaped, and the girls he had taken with him.
We now entered on the desert, by which we were to approach Catroun,
the first town on the borders of Fezzan. A hundred and fifty
of the Tibboo-Reshad accompanied us a little in the rear. If we
forgot a knife, or wooden cup—as caravans always do—they were
ready to snap everything up; and if a camel fell, they were near
to seize on the carcass. When one of our beasts of burden showed
signs of knocking up, indeed, we had to comply with the customs
of the desert—namely, to abandon our own beast, and hire a new
one of the Tibboos. The old one is often kept by them, and fed and
nourished into a useful animal again.
The Tibboos will not allow their hired camels to carry a single
pound above the weight agreed at the outset. They are very careful
of their beasts. The man whose camel I was obliged to hire walked
in the morning in front of his beast, leading it by the bridle,
plucking herbs as he went along, and feeding it; after midday he
left the bridle, and went hither and thither collecting food to
give it at halting time. In this way the camels of the Tibboos
are always kept in good health and strength, whilst those of the
caravans become emaciated and worn out.
These people are very simple and ignorant. One of our people, named
Abd-Allah, had a gold watch, which he used to hang by a branch of a
tree when he rested in the shade. At the last station in the Tibboo
country fatality decreed that he should leave it suspended. The
savages came as usual to search about, and saw what they imagined
to be a lump of precious metal swinging from a branch. One of them
seized it with joy; but suddenly heard a noise and put it near
his ear. Immediately he imagined that there was a devil inside,
and dashing it against the branch of a tree, took to flight with
his companions into the desert When Abd-Allah came back, therefore,
to look for his watch, he found only the fragments. Cursing the
time he had stayed there, he pursued his journey until the evening,
and then inquired among the Tibboos who had done this thing. One
came forward and boasted that he had dashed the devil to pieces;
so Abd-Allah made a note of him, and on arriving at Mourzouk cited
him before the Kadi, and compelled him to pay damages to the extent
of forty dollars.
The Tibboos are the most ceremonious people in the world. When they
meet, they squat down one opposite the other, looking serious and
calm, well wrapped up in their lithams, with a lance in one hand
and a buckler in the other. They then growl out an interminable
series of compliments, after which they talk of business, and often
end with a regular fight. If, for example, one of them alludes,
by way of reproach, to any loss he has sustained from the others,
blows are sure to follow. They are the most avaricious of men,
and will strip a whole caravan for a bit of leather.
We were ten days in crossing the desert that separated us from
Fezzan. It is without water. We travelled several hours after
night and before morning, in order to avoid the torment of heat and
thirst. We hastened on as rapidly as possible. On our last night’s
march most of the travellers had no water left, and some had only
a very small quantity. I had still four skins left, and I had had
the good idea of enclosing two of my skins in the _guerfehs_, or
large leather bags, to prevent evaporation by the sun; the other
two were fastened to my camel. During the last night we marched hard
until worn out with fatigue, and then halting, each slept where he
could. Before closing my eyes I gave drink to such of my slaves as
were thirsty; and then laid my head between my two skins. Near me
lay Abd-Allah with his slaves, who drank all my water in the night,
and I complained in the morning without obtaining redress.
My favourite slave was then one of the girls whom I had given with
a camel to a Tibboo, as above mentioned, when I was bewildered with
desire for another. About this time the poor thing was seized with
what is called “the thirst of the desert,” or shôb. She had
an unappeasable craving for drink; but the more water she drank the
more she wanted. I feared for her life; but a Bedawin, named Khalyl,
who was one of the caravan, perceiving my distress, said to me:
“Give her some melted butter to drink, and her sufferings will
cease.” I followed his advice, and in a very short time she was
relieved. Then I placed her on a camel, for slaves usually walk,
and the heat somewhat diminishing, she was quite cured. I afterwards
learned that a caravan on its way to Mekka, having wandered from
the right road, and having not a drop of water left, continued to
exist entirely on a little melted butter for ten whole days. This
is more extraordinary than what happened to my slave.
When we reached the well we halted for forty-eight hours, after
which we proceeded until we reached Catroun.[58] This place is
surrounded with palms, producing excellent dates, which the people
eat in abundance at every repast. They likewise feed cattle and
horses with them. Their territory is sandy and sterile. They are
as black as the Soudanees; and consist of Tibboos who have settled
there, with a small mixture of Fezzanees.