CHAPTER LXXIV

SIMLA

Like a troop of beggars and knights of the road my twelve servants and I

left Tokchen on July 24. We had stayed there nine days with nothing to

do but watch the monsoon rain, which I had incautiously promised the

natives, pelting down on the hills. The authorities of the place

insisted this time that, as we were not furnished with a passport from

Lhasa, we had no right to make use of the great high-road to Ladak, but

must turn back to the interior of Tibet whence we had come. If I had not

already had enough of the great blank, I would have agreed to their

demand with pleasure, but I was now weary and longed for home, and as

they refused the assistance and the transport facilities we required, we

set out on foot with the baggage on our last ten horses and mules. I had

still the white horse from Kamba Tsenam's tent at my disposal. We had no

escort, for the authorities wished to be quite clear of blame in case

they were called to account. By the holy lake, where we followed the

northern shore by known ways, we at length found a tramp who offered to

show us the way to the Totling monastery.

In Langbo-nan I visited hastily the young abbot, as sympathetic and

good-natured as the year before, and at Chiu-gompa we met our old friend

Tundup Lama, fretful, melancholy, and weary of his lonely cloister life.

Large streams now emptied their water into both lakes, and with a

feeling of regret I left again the scene of so many precious memories.

Before we came to the monastery of Tirtapuri we had to cross several of

the rivers which bring their tribute from the Trans-Himalaya to the

Sutlej. Three of them were enormously swollen after the continuous

rains, and rolled their volumes of greyish-brown foaming water over

treacherous blocks. It boiled and seethed between the cliffs, and it

carried along and overturned the slippery boulders. How I trembled in

mortal anxiety lest the harvest so laboriously gathered in the last long

winter should all be lost by a single false step.

We came to the temple of Tirtapuri in pouring rain. Lobsang, Gulam,

Kutus, Tubges, Suen, and Kunchuk were to accompany me hence to Simla,

but Abdul Kerim and the other five received their pay and gratuities,

and took their way home to Leh through Gartok. I did not know the road

to Simla, but on the map it seemed to be nearer than to Ladak, and

therefore I expected that my party would arrive first at its

destination. But this road is very wild and romantic, and the land is

deeply excavated by the affluents of the Sutlej, and one might imagine

that one had suddenly been transported to the cañons of the Colorado.

One day we marched rapidly up an ascent of 3000 feet, and the next we

went down as far, so that the distance was at least double as great as

it appeared on the map, and Abdul Kerim reached Leh long before I was

near Simla. Therefore the first news of us came from him, and not from

myself, and in some quarters the worst fears were entertained for my

safety. It seemed strange that my servants reached their home safe and

sound while I myself was still missing.

[Illustration: 385. MY PUPPY.]

[Illustration: 386. TAKKAR IN HIS NEW HOME WITH THE MISSIONARIES IN

POO.]

We parted with floods of tears on August 1, and my party travelled past

the three monasteries, Dongbo, Dava, and Mangnang (Illust. 382), and

came to Totling-gompa on the 13th, near which Father Andrade, three

hundred years ago, lodged in the now decayed town of Tsaparang. Here I

met the Hindu doctor Mohanlal, who gave me the first news of the outer

world. Through him I heard, with deep regret, of the death of King

Oscar, which had occurred more than eight months before. Mohanlal also

informed me of the growing unrest in India and of the anxiety my friends

felt on my account. Thakur Jai Chand had been instructed by the

Indian Government to spare no efforts to find out whether I was still

living or not. He had sent out some Tibetan freebooters in various

directions, and promised 50 rupees to any one who could furnish any

certain information of my fate--this is the price he valued me at. Abdul

Kerim had reached Gartok in the best of health, and was summoned to the

Garpun, who exclaimed: "Your Sahib is a dreadful man; he will not be

satisfied until I lose my head!" Old Hajji Nazer Shah, who had so

conscientiously equipped my last caravan, had died the preceding winter.

When we left Tokchen on July 24 we were delighted at the thought that we

should at every step be nearer to lower country and a denser and warmer

atmosphere. A month later we were at a greater height than at Tokchen,

and saw the country covered with snow, and heard the hail patter on our

dilapidated tents. But at Shipki we again set them up in a garden

dressed in the rich beauty of summer, and heard the wind murmur in the

spreading crowns of the apricot trees. Shipki is the last village in

Tibet. From this garden oasis begins the steep ascent to the Shipki-la,

which is reached after attaining a height of six Eiffel Towers one upon

another. Here we stood on the frontier between Tibet and India. I turned

and let my eyes roam once more over these awfully desolate and barren

mountains where my dreams had been realized, and my lucky star had shed

a clearer and more friendly light than ever before. Farewell, home of

wild asses and antelopes, holy land of the Tashi Lama, of Tso-mavang and

the Tsangpo, into whose mysterious valleys the stranger has found his

way only by enduring two Arctic winters and by driving a flock of

refractory sheep! I seemed to take farewell of the best of my youth and

the finest chapter in the story of my life.

On August 28 we encamped in the village of Poo (Illusts. 383, 384), and

I spent two memorable days in the hospitable house of the Moravian

missionaries. Messrs. Marx and Schnabel and their amiable families

overwhelmed me with kindness, and now I was deluged with news from the

outer world--it was like listening to the breakers on the coast of the

ocean. I had not seen a European for more than two years, and I looked

myself like a Tibetan footpad. But the missionaries rigged me out at

once in European summer clothes and set an Indian helmet on my head.

A few days later we came to Kanam-gompa, where Alexander Csoma Körösi

eighty years ago studied Lamaist learning as a monk, and more than any

one else communicated to the scholars of the West the occult mysteries

of this religion. How silent and quiet our life had been up on the

expanse of Chang-tang! Now the dizzy depths of the valley are filled

with the roar of the falling stream, and the thunder of the water is

re-echoed from the precipitous cliffs. How bare and scanty was the soil

of Tibet, and now we listen daily to the whisper of mild breezes in the

deep dark coniferous forests that clothe the slopes of the Himalayas.

Still lower runs the road, still warmer is the air. My trusty friend,

big shaggy Takkar, looks at me with questioning eyes. He loves not the

summer's perfumed garlands nor the variegated zone of meadows. He

remembers the free life on the open plains, he misses the fights with

the wolves of the wilderness, and he dreams of the land of everlasting

snowstorms. One day we saw him drink of a spring which poured its water

across the path, and then lie down in the cool shade of the forest. He

had done so many times before, but we should never see him repeat it. He

turned and galloped up towards lonely Tibet. He parted with sorrow in

his heart from his old master, I knew; but he thought he would ask the

missionaries in Poo to send me a greeting. One morning he was found

lying outside the gate to the court of the Mission-house, and, true to

his old habit, he would let no one go in or out. He was hospitably

received, and started a new life with a chain round his neck. I still

receive from time to time, through Mr. Marx, greetings from old Takkar,

who so faithfully defended my tent when I travelled in disguise through

his own country (Illust. 386).

[Illustration: 387. SIMLA.]

In the Club des Asiatiques in Paris I once dined with Madame Massieu,

who has accomplished so many wonderful journeys in Asia. Roland

Bonaparte and Henry of Orléans were present, as I vividly remembered

when on September 7 I met the far-travelled Parisian lady in the

station-house of Taranda. We had much to talk about when we contributed

to the cost of a common dinner. Untouched by years, youthful and

enthusiastic, Madame Massieu afterwards undertook a bold journey to

Khatmandu.

With growing uneasiness I approached the hour when, after nearly a

year's complete silence, I was again to receive letters from home, and I

wondered whether I should break them open and read them without any

cause for sorrow. The post met me at Gaura on September 9. I read all

the evening, all night, and all the following day, and I was able to

take the last days' journey to Simla in comfort, for I was spared any

untoward news and knew that all was well at home. Now the wind whispered

more gently than ever in the Himalayan cedars, and the roar of the

Sutlej sounded like the roll of drums in a triumphal march.

In Kotgar I was present at evensong in the missionaries' church. How

strange to hear again the soft soothing tones of the organ, and as an

unworthy Christian pilgrim in a Christian temple remember the solitude

of the past years.

The following day I marched along the road in the company of my men for

the last time, for near Narkanda a rickshaw met me, sent by Colonel

Dunlop Smith. I left them, to hurry on without delay, while they were to

follow in the usual order of march. How pleasant to lean against the

back of the little two-wheeled vehicle and roll away at a rapid pace

under the shady canopy of the deodars!

September 15 was a great day for me. I stayed at the bungalow of Fagu,

and this camp, where I was quite alone, was No. 499. Simla, therefore,

would be 500. It felt very strange to stand on the boundary between the

wilderness and the most refined civilization. At the breastwork of the

excellent carriage-road sat a gentleman in his rickshaw; it was my

friend Mr. Edward Buck, Reuter's correspondent. This is the beginning, I

thought; and on I went on this last day's journey. The fine imposing

town appears in the distance on the slopes of its hills and the white

houses peep out from among the trees (Illust. 387). A young maiden takes

a snap of us with her camera, but it is early in the morning, and

without further adventures we take refuge at a gentleman's outfitters,

for in spite of the clothes from Poo I must undergo a complete

renovation before I can present myself before the doors of the Viceregal

Lodge.

What a total contrast to the lonely life I had led for two long years!

On September 16 a State ball took place, and I heard again the crunching

sound on the sand of the court as innumerable rickshaws bore guests to

the ball. Rustling silk, glittering jewels, brilliant uniforms--in an

unbroken line the _élite_ of Simla pass between satellites with their

tall turbans and shining lances. God save the King! Followed by their

staff Their Excellencies enter, and open the dance to the notes of a

waltz of Strauss. It was just as in May 1906, and the twenty-eight

months that had intervened seemed to me like a strange fantastic dream.

The first days I stayed in the house of my noble old friend Colonel

Dunlop Smith, and had now an opportunity of thanking him and his amiable

ladies for the trouble they had taken in connection with the consignment

to Gartok the year before. Then I moved over to the Viceregal Lodge, and

again enjoyed the same boundless hospitality of Lord and Lady Minto.

From my window I saw again, sharp and clear, the crests of the

Himalayas, and beyond the mountains and valleys of Tibet stretched out

in a boundless sea. What wealth and luxury! I lived like a prince,

walked on soft rugs and meditated, lay and read Swedish journals in a

deep soft bed, by electric light, and bathed in a porcelain bath,

attended by Hindus in the viceregal livery--I who had lately gone in

rags and tended sheep.

[Illustration: 388. THE LAST MEMBERS OF THE EXPEDITION AT THE ENTRANCE

OF THE VICEREGAL LODGE IN SIMLA.]

On September 24 a hundred and fifty ladies and gentlemen in full dress

were assembled in the State room in the Viceregal Lodge. The occasion

was a lecture, and on the dais hung with gold-embroidered brocade, where

the thrones usually stand, was set up a large map of Tibet. The front

seats were occupied by the Commander-in-Chief of the Indian Army, Lord

Kitchener of Khartum, the Governor of the Panjab, the Maharajas of Alwar

and Gwalior; and among the guests might be seen generals and superior

officers, State secretaries, men of science, and members of the

diplomatic corps then present in Simla. The Military Secretary, Colonel

Victor Brooke, came forward and announced the arrival of the Viceroy and

Lady Minto. I was trembling with stage fright, but before I knew

anything about it, my opening words, "Your Excellencies, Ladies and

Gentlemen," sounded through the brilliant saloon, and then followed an

account of my last journey. It was one o'clock in the morning before I

concluded, and after a most flattering speech from Lord Minto the guests

withdrew to the late supper.

My six Ladakis and our seven remaining animals stayed in a _serai_ below

the palace. I often went and talked to them, and played a while with my

old travelling companion Little Puppy. But the time passed quickly, and

soon the last day came. I embraced and squeezed Little Puppy, stroked

his head, and found it hard to tear myself away. He was put out by his

master's elegant costume, and had a melancholy questioning expression,

as though he suspected that the bond between us was loosed, and that we

should never see each other again. We had shared everything in common

from the time he was born below the snowy Karakorum pass, and to part

from dogs is the hardest trial of all; to bid men farewell is not so

distressing.

At our arrival in Simla I had given them 60 rupees each for new

clothing, and in the bazaar they had found some old cast-off uniforms

with bright metal buttons, which they thought grand and becoming. On the

neck lappets were the words "Guard, London S.W. Railway," and how they

found their way to India I do not know. But in these uniforms and in red

fezzes my men assembled in the palace court on the last day of

September (Illust. 388). They were allowed to keep our seven horses and

mules, saddles, tents, skin coats, bed furniture, and everything. My

white horse they were to sell in Leh and divide the price. Gulam took

charge of Little Puppy, and undertook to see that he did not suffer want

in the future--it was like breaking up an old home. Besides his pay,

every man received a present of 100 rupees, and their expenses to Leh

four times over. Lord and Lady Minto were present at the last farewell,

and the Viceroy made them a short, cheery speech. It was a sad parting,

and even the calm Lobsang, who was amazed at the wealth and splendour of

Simla, wept like a child as with heavy step he followed his comrades

down to their waiting animals. "What faithfulness! what devotion!"

exclaimed Lady Minto with feeling; "their tears are more expressive than

words."

At the beginning of October the Viceroy and Lady Minto set out on an

excursion into the mountains, and after a hearty farewell and warm

thanks for all the kindness they had showered on me, I remained lonely

and forlorn in the great palace. My steamer would not leave Bombay for a

week, and I was delighted to be the guest of Lord Kitchener in his

residence, Snowdon, during the five days I was yet to stay in Simla. I

shall never forget these days. My room was decorated with flowers, and

on a table stood fourteen books on Tibet, chosen from the General's

library to supply me with entertaining reading. With the aides-de-camp

Captains Wyllie and Basset, merry fellows and good comrades, we lived

like four bachelors, took breakfast, lunch, and dinner together, and

spent the evening in the billiard-room, on the mantelpiece of which was

the appropriate motto, "Strike, and fear not."

In the afternoon the General took me out along the road leading to

Tibet. We then talked of the future of Europe in Asia and Africa, and I

gained a greater insight than I had ever done before into Lord

Kitchener's life and work in Egypt.

But the days at Snowdon also came to an end, and on October 11, when the

people were flocking to church, I was driven by the victor of Africa to

the station, where I took a last farewell of the man for whose exploits

I have always felt a boundless admiration. At Summerhill station, below

the Viceregal Lodge, I exchanged a last shake of the hand with my dear

friend Dunlop Smith, and then the white houses of Simla vanished in the

distance, and the train rolled down to the heat of India and the great

lonely sea.

[Illustration: THE SOURCES OF THE BRAHMAPUTRA, SUTLEJ, AND INDUS

By Dr. Sven Hedin.]

[Illustration: A MAP OF TRANS-HIMALAYA

By Dr. SVEN HEDIN]

[Illustration: A MAP OF TIBET SHOWING DR. SVEN HEDIN'S ROUTES 1906-1908.]

INDEX

Abbot, a twelve-year-old, ii. 163

Abdul Kerim, my caravan leader, ii. 226;

error of, as to forage, 241;

assumes rôle of master of caravan, 291, 344;

ideas as to the time of day, 302;

despatched in charge of second division of caravan to the Tarok-tso,

371;

anxiety as to whereabouts of, 396;

arrives at our camp at Ratse, 399;

bid farewell to, with other five of my followers, 416

Absi, peak of the Kubi-gangri, ii. 102

Abuk-la pass, ii. 396

Adam, Colonel, military secretary to the Viceroy, i. 16

Age, average, of caravan, i. 53

"Aid," Mohammedan festival celebrated in camp, i. 191

Aksai-chin, lake, unannexed region of, i. 93, 95, 98; ii. 258

Alchi, dangerous bridge at, i. 44

Alexander the Great, i. 3; ii. 213

Amban Lien Yü, of Lhasa, i. 393, 400

Amchen-la pass, ii. 396

Amchi-lama (monk-doctor), tent-temple of, ii. 296

Amchok-tang, plain, ii. 36

Amchok-tso, lake, ii. 36;

camp at, 37;

shallowness of, 38;

soundings on, 39

Amchok-yung, village of, ii. 36

Amchung country, interesting information acquired in, ii. 325

Amitabha, the Tashi Lama the incarnation of, i. 326

Amusements, Tibetan, i. 341

Anchar, lake, i. 32

Angden-la pass, cairn with prayer-streamers on, ii. 34;

panoramic view from, 35;

not situated on same range as the Samye-la, 330

Angsi-chu, river, ii. 104

"Antelope Plain," name given by Captain Deasy, i. 142

Antelopes, i. 92, 114, 175, 186; ii. 36, 262, 282;

method of snaring, i. 119; ii. 274

Aong-tsangpo, river, ii. 399

Archery and shooting competitions on horseback, i. 343

Argok-tso, lake, ii. 400

Arnold, _The Light of Asia_, quotation from, ii. 206

Arport-tso, lake, crossing of ice of, ii. 263

Arung-kampa, deserted village of, i. 280

Asses, wild, upright position of frozen, ii. 95;

great herds met with, 285

Atkinson, Mr. E. T., work by, cited, ii. 402

Bailey, Lieutenant, Acting Resident at Gyangtse, i. 255

Balls, State, in Simla, i. 17; ii. 420

Baltal, i. 38

Bando, camp at, ii. 83

Barley, roasted, a delicacy, ii. 14

Barong-la pass, ii. 30

Basang valley, camp in, ii. 46

Basgho-gompa, monastery, i. 44

Bed, method of making my, i. 150

Ben-la pass, storm on, ii. 34

Besant, Mrs. Annie, i. 30

Bibles, the Tibetan, in library of Tashi-lunpo, i. 333;

in Tashi-gembe, 412

Biographical details of caravan, i. 151-153

Birch bark, dream suggested by, ii. 95

Boat, our portable, i. 28;

successful trip of, 107;

description of Tibetan, 288

Bogtsang-tsangpo, the, camp at, i. 205;

interview with chief of district, 205;

geographical information obtained, 206;

erratic course of, 207

Bokar valley, ii. 212

_Bombo_, or district chief, i. 262

Bongba, province of, ii. 304;

tension of journey through the, 312;

names of the twelve districts of, 388

Bongba-changma, district of, ii. 304

Bongba-chushar, district of, ii. 379

Bongba-kebyang, district of, ii. 388

Bongba-kemar, district of, ii. 324, 389

Bongba-kyangrang, high-road to Lapchung through, ii. 387

Brahmaputra, the, valley of, i. 281;

welcome news received at, 282;

monasteries of, 282;

confluence of the Chaktak-tsangpo with, ii. 48;

measurements and ratios, 49;

junction of the Tsa-chu-tsangpo

with, and measurements, 74;

possible diversion of, 78;

varying volume of, 88;

Nain Sing on its sources, 89;

Webber's confusing statement as to the origin of, 89;

Ryder's map of valley of upper, 90;

source-streams of, 90-95;

author's determination of its source in Kubi-gangri, 96, 101;

we bid farewell to, 105

British Government, change of, i. 4;

refuse permission to enter Tibet from India, 7, 388;

cautious policy of, 10, 395

Buck, Mr. Edward, ii. 219, 419

Buddha, stone figures of, at Dras, i. 39;

posture of, in statues and pictures, ii. 10

Buddhism, introduced into Tibet, i. 312;

preservation of life a fundamental principle of, 312

Buka-magna, mountain system, i. 164

Bumnak-chu, river, ii. 22

Bup-chu-tsangpo, river, sources of, i. 276

Buptsang-tsangpo, river, ii. 325;

scenery of, 326;

its headwaters, 327;

camp by the, 389

Bupyung-ring valley, beauty of, ii. 327

Burrard, Colonel S. G., on drainage area of the Sutlej, ii. 187;

book by Hayden and, mentioned, 404;

disapproves of author's use of the name Trans-Himalaya, 412

Burroughs & Wellcome, London, medicine-chest presented by, i. 29, 172;

my offering to the Tashi Lama, 316; ii. 40

Buser-tsangpo, river, ii. 261

"Call of the wilderness," the, i. 1

Calvert, Mr., crosses Jukti-la pass, ii. 215, 403

Camp, our first, i. 33

Camp life, routine of our, i. 150;

Tibetan, ii. 387

Campbell-Bannerman, Sir Henry, i. 4;

telegrams sent by author to, 8, 390

Candles, Christmas-tree of, i. 219

Caravan, our, equipment of, i. 28, 53;

troublesome members, 38;

biographical details, 151-153;

rearrangement of, 166;

home-sickness in, ii. 62, 67;

three members dismissed, 69;

their reinstatement, 73;

reduction at Tokchen, 107;

reorganization of, 110;

preparation of new, for fresh expedition, 211, 226, 228;

heavy baggage sent back to Leh, 229;

parting with Robert and Rub Das, 229;

Mohammedan festival, 260;

losses and sickness, 265;

superfluous baggage sacrificed, 269, 279, 282;

directions to, 274;

my hiding-place in, 345;

festivities in honour of Governor of Saka, 368;

divided into two parties, 371;

combined again, 400;

parting with my caravan leader and companions, 416;

farewell to remainder of followers in Simla, 422

Cassels, Mr., present of tea from, ii. 179

Chabuk-tso, lake, ii. 322

Chak-chom-la pass, i. 191

Chakko, holy spring, miraculous powers attributed to, ii. 106

Chaklam-la pass, ii. 308

Chaktak-tsangpo, river, ii. 45;

preparations for excursion to, 47;

confluence with the Brahmaputra, 48;

measurements and ratios, 49, 65;

journey northwards along, 65;

camp again on, 335;

eastward march along north bank of, 337;

return to, 374

Chamo-lung-chen valley, ii. 193

_Chang_, or native beer, i. 68

Changa, village of, i. 63

Chang-chenmo valley, bivouac at, i. 79; ii. 233

Chang-la pass, i. 64; altar with prayer-streamers on summit of, 66

Chang-la-Pod-la pass, meaning of the term, ii. 19;

camp on, 20

Chang-lung-barma valley, i. 81

Chang-lung-yogma valley, i. 81, 84;

difficulties in, 82;

camp and rest in, 82;

sunshine and snow, 83;

magnificent landscape of, 85

Changpas, Tibetan nomads, i. 119;

friendliness of, 182, 188;

habits and tastes, 184;

skill in hunting, 185;

hard life of, 186;

disposal of their dead, 187

Chang-shung, a headwater of the Raga-tsangpo, ii. 41

Chang-tang, the, desperate situation in, i. 163;

our successful crossing of, 210

Chang Yin Tang, Chinese Commissioner in Tibet, correspondence with, i.

393, 397; ii. 42, 70

Chapka-la pass, i. 259

Charvak, camp at, ii. 234

Chega-gompa temple, i. 280

Chema-yundung, river, ii. 90, 103;

measurement of discharge, 91

Chema-yundung-pu, heights of, ii. 92

Chenmo, _kotidar_ of Tankse, i. 73, 87

Chergip-gompa monastery, its single monk, ii. 165

Cherok, district of, ii. 88

Chesang-la pass, intense cold on, i. 274

_Chhorten_, or stone monument, i. 42

Chi Chao Nan, translation of passage from his work on source of the

Sutlej, ii. 183;

accuracy of his statements, 183

Chikum, view from camp at, ii. 83

Chimre monastery, i. 64

Chinese Government, messages from, i. 389, 391;

importance of supremacy in Tibet to the, 396;

specimen of diplomatic

correspondence, 397;

courtesy of officials to author, 400

Chinese passport, efficacy of my, i. 299

Chini-chikang, nuns' temporary quarters, Tashi-lunpo, i. 357

Chiptu-la pass, pilgrim route over, ii. 388

Chiu-gompa monastery, visits to, ii. 159, 415

Chockar-shung-chu valley, ii. 75

Chokchu, caravan bound for, met with, i. 270;

the Governor of, ii. 399

Choma-taka, cave of, ii. 18

Chomo-sumdo valley, camp in, ii. 16

Chomo-uchong, "High Nun," ridge of, ii. 41, 333, 344, 362

Chong-yangal, camp at, ii. 232

Christmas, our celebration of, i. 219;

Ladaki hymn and dances at, 220;

translation of hymn sung at, 221;

comparison of different years, ii. 248

Chugge-lung valley, i. 271

Chungsang, a tributary of the Tsangpo, ii. 45

Chunit-tso, lake, ii. 322, 387;

warm sulphur spring at, 323

Church festivals, Lamaist, i. 301

Churu pool, camp at, ii. 67

Chuta district, sulphurous springs in, i. 82

Chykying, the Gova of, ii. 314, 316

Cleanliness, Ladakis' contempt for, i. 150

Cockburn's Agency, assistance in furnishing and transport, i. 28

Consul of Nepal, the, i. 304, 375

Correspondence, arrangements for forwarding, i. 72, 83, 87, 103;

welcome arrival of, at the Ngangtse-tso, 254;

and at Shigatse, 377

_Corvée_, system of, exacted on Tibetan high-roads, ii. 328

"Cripple," our faithful canine follower, i. 263

Crosby, expedition of, referred to, i. 98

Curzon, Lord, encouraging letter from, i. 3;

leaves India, 4;

on author's use of name Trans-Himalaya, ii. 413

Dagtse-tso, i. 217

Dahlgren, Dr. E. W., statement by, as to wall-maps in Venice, ii. 406

Dalai Lama (Gyalpo Rinpoche), cowardly flight of, i. 244, 306;

his sphere compared with that of the Tashi Lama, 323;

disastrous policy of, 323

Dal-dervaseh, canal journey from, i. 32

Dalgleish, Mr., monument to, in Leh, i. 59

Dambak-rong, valley junction, ii. 70;

letter from the Tang Darin received at, 70

Dam-chu, river, ii. 181

Damm valley, ii. 79

_Dandy_, or average man's load, i. 166

Dane, Sir Louis, interview with, i. 7, 11

Dangbe-chu, river, i. 276

Dangbe-la pass, i. 277

Dangra-yum-tso, lake, permission to visit, refused, i. 247, 251;

reputed salinity of, ii. 29;

shape and extent of, 29;

pilgrim routes round, 29;

Nain Sing's nomenclature of district, 30;

proposed dash for, 382

D'Anville, maps by, referred to, ii. 185, 186, 337, 401

Dapsang, on the heights of, ii. 248;

Christmas box for the animals at, 251

Daya Kishen Kaul, private secretary to Maharaja of Kashmir, assistance

rendered by, i. 24, 28

Dead, barbarous disposal of the, i. 370

Deane, Sir Harold, i. 15

Deasy, Captain, "Fever Camp" of, i. 120;

baggage and provisions left by, at Yeshil-kul, 128

"Deasy Group," mountain mass, i. 131, 138

Dena-lhakang temple, Tashi-lunpo, i. 364

Dentistry, drastic form of, ii. 324

Devashung. _See_ Tibetan Government

Devotional exercises of pilgrims, Tashi-lunpo, i. 357

Dicha-la pass, importance of watershed, ii. 375

_Dikpa-karnak_, or test-stone for sinners, ii. 195

Ding-la, the highest pass crossed in our journey, ii. 400

Dinner, State, at Simla, i. 12

Diri-pu monastery, my tent pitched on roof of, ii. 193

Disguise, assumed by author, ii. 277

Dogs: puppies taken with party, i. 34;

frolics of, 37, 62, 69, 74, 143, 154; ii. 34, 41;

from Pobrang added to caravan, i. 74;

deserted by one of our, 78;

a splendid feast, 108;

loss of two, 259;

two new followers, 263;

an interesting event, 399;

illness and deaths of, ii. 65, 67, 73, 251;

another happy event, 238;

loss of Brown Puppy, 293, 301;

purchase of Takkar, 305;

Little Puppy's first experience of running water, 314;

Takkar's avowal of affection, 319;

a sorrowful parting, 419

Dojas-chimbo, court in Tashi-lunpo, i. 308

Dokang valley, camp in, i. 279;

Tibetan politeness in, 280

Dok-chu (Raga-tsangpo), river, voyage through rapids of, i. 418;

its confluence with the Brahmaputra, 419;

rock-drawings in valley of, 422;

junction with the My-chu, 422;

head sources of, ii. 41

Dölchu-gompa monastery, mentioned, ii. 182, 187

Döle-gompa nunnery, i. 429

Dolma-la pass, pilgrim offerings on, ii. 200

Dongchen-la pass, wild sheep on the, ii. 380

Dongdong, glaciers of the, ii. 92;

peaks of the, 103

Dongmo-chu, river, ii. 39

Dopserma, island of the Langak-tso, ii. 178

Dorab-la pass, ii. 75

_Dorche_, or emblem of thunderbolt, i. 318

Dorche Tsuen, Governor of Saka-dzong, discussion of my return route

with, ii. 355-359, 364;

camp festivities in honour of, 368;

bid farewell to, 370

Do-tsengkan, mountain, ii. 33

Dras, river, i. 39;

stone figures of Buddha near, i. 39;

junction with the Wakkha, 40

Drugub, i. 67;

our new caravan at, ii. 226;

salt-caravan at, 228

Dsabo, title of official in Chagha, i. 416

Dsalung-la pass, importance of, ii. 388

Duan Suen, Chinese official in Shigatse, i. 298, 388

Duff, General Sir Beauchamp, i. 16

Dufour, map by, ii. 406

Dumbok-tso, lake, i. 219

Dunglung valley, ii. 193

Dunglung-do, valley junction, ii. 193

Dungtsa-tso, lake, our camp visited by Tibetans at, i. 192

Dung-yeilak, oasis of, ii. 233

Dunka-la pass, view of the Shuru-tso from, ii. 34

Dunlop Smith, Colonel J. R., private secretary to Viceroy, i. 11;

arranges as to my correspondence, 103;

letter to, from Tokchen, ii. 107;

consignment from, reaches Gartok, 223;

hospitality in Simla, 420;

good-bye to, 423

_Dupkang_, or hermitage, ii. 2

Dutreuil de Rhins, French explorer, i. 46, 47, 199

_Dzong_, or town with resident governor, i. 245

Dzundi village, medicinal springs at, i. 283

Eagles, i. 209

Earthquake at Selipuk, ii. 399

Eclipse of the sun, incidents of the, i. 252

Electricity, generation of, by driftsand, ii. 300

Elephant, a unique, i. 336

Emir Sing, brother of Maharaja of Kashmir, i. 26

Equipment of caravan, i. 28, 53; ii. 211

Escort, our Pathan and Rajput, i. 28;

our Tibetan, 404, 424;

inspection of, ii. 16;

fresh, from Kyangdam, 21;

route discussed with, 21;

the Governor of Saka-dzong supplies military, 365

Espionage, system of, i. 379

Europeans, Tibetan distrust of, i. 201;

iron statues of, in Tashi-gembe monastery, 413;

increased stringency of regulations regarding, ii. 356

Fagu, bungalow of, ii. 419

Family ties, looseness of Tibetan, i. 373

Field-mice, treacherous holes of, i. 92, 96, 147, 215, 223; ii. 332,

397

Fireworks, display of, at Srinagar, i. 27

Food supplies, calculations and estimates of, i. 73

Fox, surprise of a, i. 148

Francke, Pastor A. H., i. 54

_Frithiof's Saga_, quotation from, ii. 11

Fröding, quotation from, ii. 6

Frost-bite, heartless desertion of victim of, ii. 240

Funeral customs, gruesome, i. 369

Game, abundance of, i. 177, 205; ii. 50

Gandän-chöding, nunnery of, i. 410

Gandarbal, first camp at, i. 33;

departure of caravan from, 35

Gang-lung, mountain, ii. 109, 129

Gang-lung-chu, river, ii. 105, 129

Ganglung-gangri range, direction of, ii. 395

Ganjevan, i. 36

Ganju-gompa monastery, ii. 86

Ganju-la pass, ii. 86

_Gao_, or small case with figure of Buddha, i. 247

Gara-la pass, ii. 366

Gar-gunsa, arrival at, ii. 219;

misleading reports intentionally spread at, 219;

plans formed at, 222;

arrival of consignment from India, 233;

leave for Tankse, 224

Gartok, men and baggage sent to, from Tokchen, ii. 107;

main caravan sent to, from Khaleb, 208;

letters received at, 215;

visit to the Garpuns of, 215;

friendly letter from Lien Darin at, 216;

consultation with Gulam Razul at, 217;

plans considered, and return to Ladak resolved on, 218;

leave for Gar-gunsa, 219

Gaura, letters from home received at, ii. 419

Gave-ting, massive of Kubi-gangri, ii. 101, 103

Gaw Daloi, Chinese Agent at Gyangtse, i. 388;

correspondence with, 390, 392

Gazelles, Goa, i. 240

Gebuk-chu, confluence of, with the Chak-tak-tsangpo, ii. 337

Gebuk-la pass, ii. 341

Gebuk-yung, district of, ii. 339

Geese, wild, flock of, i. 166;

habits of, 167, 168;

migrations of, ii. 321;

Tibetan reverence for, 362

_Gelong_, order of priesthood, i. 351

"Gelugpa," monastic sect founded by Tsong Kapa, i. 335

Gertse, nomads from, i. 179, 184, 192; ii. 285;

their distrust of each other, i. 193;

house of chief of, ii. 296

Getsa-rung, gold placer of, ii. 276

_Getsul_, order of priesthood, i. 351

Ghe, bivouac at, and escort changed, i. 424

Goa-la pass, ii. 387

Goa-lung valley, ii. 387

Goang-shung, guides obtained at, ii. 392

Goang-tso, lake, i. 217

Goats, taken with caravan for milk, i. 74

Gobrang, ridge of, i. 206

Gogra, camp at, i. 81

Gold, traces of search for, i. 174, 188;

placers, ii. 276, 284

Gomo-selung country, i. 179

Gompa-sarpa, cemetery of Shigatse, i. 369

Gossul-gompa monastery, ii. 122, 135;

novices in, 145;

_lhakang_ of, 146;

Somchung, apartment in, 146;

view from roof, 148

_Gova_, or district chief, i. 205

Governors, dual, Tibetan system of, ii. 354

Govo, village of, ii. 14

Govo-tsangpo, river, ii. 13

Grünwedel, work on Buddhistic mythology by, i. 329 _n._

Gubuk-gompa monastery, ii. 80

Guffaru, old, i. 52, 72, 81, 215; ii. 40;

appointed caravan leader on Muhamed Isa's death, 59;

returns home with thirteen members of caravan, 107;

safe arrival at Gartok, 144

Guide, vagaries of our, i. 428

Gulam Kadir, son of Nazer Shah, assistance rendered in Shigatse by, i.

377, 384

Gulam Razul, son of Nazer Shah, valuable services of, i. 56; ii.

217-221;

honours conferred on, i. 56; ii. 221

Gunda-tammo, nunnery of, i. 423

Gunsang Ngurbu, a centenarian hermit, ii. 18

Gunt, camp at, i. 37

Gurkang-pu valley, ii. 80

Gurla Mandatta, mountain group, ii. 104, 106, 111, 112;

varying aspects of, 114 ff.;

denudation cones, 157

Gyalpo Rinpoche, "the Precious King." _See_ Dalai Lama

Gyang-chu, river, ii. 88

Gyangtse, letters despatched to, i. 260;

message from Chinese Agent at, 388;

Muhamed Isa's mission to, 391, 396

Gyebuk-la pass, important trade route, ii. 47;

view from, 48

Gyegong valley, camp in, ii. 371

Gyegong-la pass, ii. 372

Gye-la pass, ii. 361

Gyenor-tsangpo, river, ii. 392

Gyuma-chu, river, ii. 162

Hajji Baba, name assumed by author, ii. 275

Hamdung, wandering lamas' quarters in Tashi-lunpo, i. 357

Hastings, Warren, embassies to the Tashi Lama from, i. 321, 334

Hawkes, General, i. 16

Hemis, temple of, near Changa, i. 63

Hermit, cell of, near Linga-gompa, ii. 2;

his heroic vow, 3;

his prayers for the sick, 4;

ceremony of seclusion, 5;

quotation from Fröding, 6;

living death of, 7, 10;

caves of, at Nyang-tö-ki-pu, 8;

Waddell on practice of seclusion for life, 9;

last offices, 10;

a centenarian, 18

Himalayas, the, view of, from the Ta-la, i. 278;

from the Angden-la, ii. 35;

from the Serchung-la, 69

Hiraman, an old friend, i. 67, 73, 75

Hlabsen Dorche Barva, god of Tso-mavang, ii. 131

Hlaje Tsering. _See_ Naktsang, Governor of

Hle-lungpa valley, ii. 193

Hlindug-ling, i. 289

Hodgson, map by, ii. 401

Home-sickness in caravan, ii. 62, 67

"Horse years," periods in Tibetan cycle of time, ii. 190

Horses, purchase and numbering of, i. 49;

qualities of different breeds, 49;

auxiliary caravan of, hired from Tankse, 50, 67;

trouble with, on leaving Leh, 61;

first loss of, 75;

field-mice holes dangerous for, 92, 96; ii. 397;

Ladaki consideration for dying, i. 93;

stampede of, 99, 139, 178; ii. 30;

mortality among, i. 101-103, 135, 138, 149, 162, 181; ii. 265;

diet of Tibetan, i. 190;

mules compared with, 198;

death of my dapple-grey, 218;

splendid condition of our Tibetan, 265;

survivors at Shigatse, 297;

our veterans, ii. 220, 229;

my white Ladaki, 229, 265, 273;

enormous wastage of, 240;

Christmas box for our, 251;

death of brown Shigatse, 264;

and of my faithful white Ladaki, 279

Ho Tsao Hsing, secretary to the Tang Darin, ii. 70

House, description of Tibetan stone, ii. 14;

domestic utensils and possessions, 15

House-boats near Gandarbal, i. 33

Huc, Abbé, book on Tibet by, ii. 402

Hymn, Tibetan, translation of, i. 221;

wonderful chanting of, in Tashi-lunpo, 308

Ice, nomads' distrust of the, i. 224, 227;

singular formations of, on the Ngangtse-tso, 227

Idar, the Maharaja of, i. 15

Illness of author, i. 172

Images, manufacture of, in Tashi-lunpo, i. 368

Immurement, voluntary, of monks, i. 363; ii. 2, 8. _See_ Hermit

Impressions in stone, i. 337, 406

India, the Tashi Lama's visit to, i. 321

Indian Government, the, sympathy of, i. 9;

instructions of, as to author's passport, 25, 26

Indus, the, previous search for rise of, i. 3;

crossed beyond Lamayuru, 43;

start for the source, ii. 208;

guide and sheep hired, 210;

discovery of source of, 212, 213;

mental picture of its course, 213;

justifiable feelings, 214

Instruments, scientific, taken on expedition, i. 29

Jackdaws, flock of, at the Shemen-tso, ii. 272

Janglung, district of, ii. 313

Japanese Embassy, representations on my behalf at Pekin by, i. 391

Jera, camp at, i. 44

Jukti-la pass, ii. 215

Kabbalo, camp at, i. 279

_Kachen_, order of priesthood, i. 351

_Kadakh_, long narrow piece of white silk, i. 310

Kadsung valley, i. 80

Kailas, "the holy mountain," views of, ii. 106, 111, 112, 181 ff.;

set out on pilgrimage round, 189;

Nyandi-gompa, 190;

pilgrims on the way, 192, 197;

Diri-pu monastery, 193;

test-stone for sinners, 195;

universal Tibetan reverence for, 196;

the most famous mountain in the world, 198;

prostration pilgrimage described, 199;

pilgrims' performance at Dung-chapje, 200;

offerings on the Dolma-la, 201;

Tsumtul-pu monastery, 202

Ka-la pass, view of, ii. 396

Kali-Gandak, river, ii. 78

_Kalun_, or high official, i. 201

Kamba-sumdo, ii. 41

Kamba Tsenam, tent-encampment belonging to, ii. 339;

offer of guide declined, 341;

nocturnal visit to my tent, 366;

boastful talk of, 367;

"father of the robbers," 367;

enormous tent of, 367;

good-bye to, 372

Kamchung-chu, name of upper Chaktak-tsangpo, ii. 337

Kam-la pass, i. 213

_Kampo Lama_, or abbot, i. 351

Kanchung-gangri range, ii. 372, 374, 375

Kando-sanglam valley, view of Kailas through, ii. 202

Kangan, tents pitched at, i. 36

Kanglung-bupchu, river, ii. 46

Kanglung-la pass, tiresome ascent to, ii. 45

Kang-rinpoche. _See_ Kailas

Kangsham-tsangpo, river, unpleasant crossing of, ii. 306

Kanjur-lhakang, library of Tashi-lunpo, i. 333;

lectures in, 366

Kapchor, camp at, i. 261

Kaptar-khane, camp at, ii. 233

Karakash Darya, river, ii. 252

Karakorum range, appearance of, from Chang-lung-yogma, i. 86;

caravan enveloped by storm from, 91

Karbu, an old follower recognized at, i. 40

Karbu-la pass, ii. 107

Kargan-la pass, ii. 103

Kargil, trial and dismissal of Kashmiris and Pathans from caravan at,

i. 41

Karma Puntso, Governor of Bongba, ii. 304, 321

Karma Tamding, of Tang-yung, guide and yaks supplied by, i. 213

Karong-tso, lake, ii. 387

Karpun, an old acquaintance, i. 253

Karu monastery, i. 63

Karu, camp at, i. 404

Kashmir, Maharaja of (Sir Pratab Sing), reception of author by, i. 26;

fête given by, in honour of Emperor of India's birthday, 27

Kashmiris, dismissal of, i. 41

Kayi-pangbuk, camp at, i. 262

Kayi-rung valley, i. 262

Kebechungu country, configuration of the, i. 196;

dust-storm in, 196

Kelung-tsangpo, river, i. 264

Kesar-tsangpo, river, i. 262

Keva, mountain peak, i. 216

Khaleb, river, ii. 181;

camp on moor, 181, 189, 203

Kichung-la pass, ii. 45

Kien Lung, Emperor of China, visited by third Tashi Lama, i. 334

Kilung-la pass, view from, ii. 69

Kinchen-la pass, ii. 344;

armed search-party visit our camp below the, 345

Kitchen of Tashi-lunpo, gigantic tea-cauldrons in the, i. 361

Kitchener, Lord, assistance promised by, i. 8;

at Viceroy's State dinner, Simla, 12;

trophies and curios in house at Simla, 18;

photograph of, in Tashi-lunpo, 321;

hospitality to author, ii. 422;

bid good-bye to, 423

Kograng-sanspo, river, i. 79, 81;

difficulties in crossing, 80

Kokbo valley, camp in, ii. 22-24;

begging lama at, 24;

impending difficulties at, 25

Köppen, book on Lamaism by, i. 329 _n._

Kore-la pass, ii. 73, 82;

view from, 78

Köteklik, ii. 237

Kotgar, attend mission service in, ii. 419

Krishna, the Pundit, i. 272; ii. 404

Kubi-gangri, excursion to the, ii. 88, 99;

source of the Brahmaputra located in, 96;

huge moraines of, 99;

glaciers of, 100;

description and names of peaks, 102

Kubi-tsangpo, river, ii. 90;

measurement of discharge of, 91;

journey up the, 91

Kuen-lun mountain system, i. 131, 142

_Kulans_ or _kiangs_, wild asses, i. 74, 97, 154, 177; ii. 95, 161, 285

Kule-la pass, ii. 354

Kum-bum monastery, visited by third Tashi Lama, i. 334;

miraculous tree in, 335

Kungchak-kong valley, ii. 79

Kung Gushuk, Duke, brother of the Tashi Lama, i. 255, 282, 309;

his house in Shigatse, 385;

portrait drawn of his wife, 386

Kung-lung valley, false alarm at, i. 215;

a prolonged storm, 216

Kung-muga, camp at, ii. 82

Kung-sherya country, dangers of discovery in, ii. 315-319

Kung-tsangpo, river, i. 262

Kuru-chok, double lake of, ii. 104

Kyam-chu, valley of, ii. 36;

junction of river with the Amchok-tso, 39;

delta of, 39

Kyangdam plain, camp on the, ii. 20

Kyangdam-tsangpo, river, ii. 34

Kyerkye valley, ii. 48

Labrang, the, palace of the Tashi Lama, i. 317, 330

"Lac Ammoniac," Dutreuil de Rhins', i. 199

Lache-to island, Langak-tso, wild-geese eggs on, ii 175

La-chu, river, ii. 181

Ladaki pony, my white, i. 83, 170, 297; ii. 229, 265, 273, 279

Ladakis of caravan, their cheerfulness, i. 76, 230;

statements regarding the weather, 79;

attention to dying horses, 93;

prayers for successful journey, 139;

festivities in camp, 146; ii. 368;

want of cleanliness, i. 150;

marvellous memory of, 151;

biographical details of, 151;

Lamaists among, receive blessing of the Tashi Lama, 356;

home-sickness among, ii. 62, 67;

costume of, assumed by author as disguise, 277

Ladung-la pass, view from summit of, ii. 313

Laen-la pass, i. 223

_Lagbas_ (corpse-carriers), hereditary caste of, i. 370;

gruesome occupation of, 371

La-ghyanyak pass, i. 208

Lakes, frozen, Tibetan distrust of, i. 227

"Lama Rinpoche," meaning of title, ii. 2

Lama temple at Shargul, i. 42

Lamaism, a corrupt form of Buddhism, i. 312;

founder of, 312; ii. 29;

books recommended for study of, i. 329 _n._

Lamaist Church, festivals of the, i. 301

Lamas, mendicant, i. 217, 383;

various orders of, 351;

devotional pilgrimage of wandering, 357

Lamayuru, village and monastery of, i. 42, 43

Lamblung valley, camp in, i. 259

Lamlung-la pass, view from, ii. 362

Lamlung-la pass, Teri-nam-tso, ii. 384

Lanak-la pass, closed to author, i. 79

Landslip, a huge, ii. 238

Langak-tso, lake, ii. 122, 157;

levels taken of isthmus between Manasarowar and, 167;

earlier explorers' visits, 167;

channel from Manasarowar to, 168, 180, 186;

legend as to origin of channel, 169;

outline of, 169;

sandspouts at, 170;

prolonged storm at, 172;

goose-island of, 174, 180;

freezing of, 180

Langbo-nan monastery, twelve-year-old abbot of, ii. 163, 415

Langchen-kabab, spring of, ii. 182

Langchen-kamba, valley and spring of, ii. 105

Langchen-kamba (Elephant river), Tibetan name for the Sutlej, ii. 182

Langmar village, camp at, ii. 12

Langmar-tsangpo, river (upper My-chu), ii. 13

Langta-chen massive, Kubi-gangri, ii. 102

Lap, severe climate of, ii. 376

Lapchung-tso, lake, ii. 375

Lapsen-Tari, view of Targo-gangri from, ii. 20

Largep, chief of, friction with, ii. 28;

presents from, 34

La-rock pass, i. 280

Lashman Das, Pundit, i. 41

La-shung country, i. 174

La-shung-tso, lake, i. 174

Lavar-gangri, mountain region, ii. 397

Lavar-tsangpo, river, ii. 399

Ldata valley, i. 74

Leh, arrival at, and quarters in, i. 45;

our final preparations in, 48, 53;

advance caravan despatched from, 51;

Hajji Nazer Shah, a wealthy merchant of, 55;

assistance of Gulam Razul, his son, 56;

description of town, 57;

old palace of, 58;

graves of Europeans in, 58;

incidents of our send-off from, 60

Lehlung-gompa, visit to monastery of, i. 425;

stuffed yaks in, 426

Lemchung-tso, lake, camp at the, ii. 282;

beginning of a thirty-days' storm at, 283

Lenjo, valley of, i. 429

Lesdain, Count de, i. 272;

book on Tibet by, ii. 400

Letters, welcome arrival of, i. 256, 377;

arrangements for forwarding, 72, 83, 87, 103;

despatch of, from Tokchen, ii. 107

Lhasa, visit of officials from, i. 375, 395;

Tundup Sonam and Tashi despatched with letters to, ii. 42;

instructions to Tibetans from, as to my journey, 44

Lhayak, camp in, ii. 93

Lien Darin, Amban of Lhasa, correspondence with, i. 393, 400; ii. 42,

216

Lighten, Lake, camp and rest at, i. 101;

personnel of caravan reduced at, 102;

second camp at, 107;

soundings and measurements of, 107-110;

storm on, 111;

a miserable night at, 115;

varied memories of, 116;

rescue party reach us, 118;

sudden change of scenery on leaving, 119

Liktse-gompa monastery, ii. 74;

skulls as drinking-vessels in, 75

Linga-gompa monastery, i. 430;

disposal of deceased monk's property, 431;

view from, 432, 434;

rhythmical chanting in, 432;

Pesu temple in, 434;

an optical illusion, 435

Linga-kok village, camp at, i. 430

Lingö village, rock-drawings near, i. 422

Loang-gonga, river, ii. 104

Lobsang, my Tibetan follower, ii. 227

Lobsang Shunten, secretary to Governor of Naktsang, i. 249

Lobsang Tsering, secretary to the Tashi Lama, visit of, in Shigatse,

i. 298

Lobsang Tsering, Tibetan nomad, i. 192, 193

Lo Gapu, Nepalese frontier chief, ii. 75, 80

Log, by Lyth of Stockholm, i. 108; ii. 114

Long, camp at, ii. 239

Lopchak Mission, the, a lucrative monopoly, i. 55

Lopön Rinpoche. _See_ Padma Sambhava

Losar, the (New Year Festival of Lama Church). _See_ New Year Festival

Lo-shung, the, headwater of the Raga-tsangpo, ii. 41

Lukkong, village of, i. 70

Luma-shar country, ii. 306

Lumbo-gangri, holy mountain, view of, from the Kilung-la, ii. 69

Lumbur-ringmo-tso, lake, ii. 286;

suspicions of nomads at, 287;

purchase of sheep at, 289

Lundup Tsering, leader of Naktsang party, ii. 26

Lungdep-chu, the, tributary of the Indus, ii. 211

Lungdep-ningri, head of wild sheep secured on, ii. 211

Lung-ganden-gompa monastery, i. 424;

hermit of the, ii. 3

Lungnak valley, i. 78

Lungnak-bupchu, stream, ii. 323

Lungring pass, ii. 40

Lung-yung, river, ii. 92

Lunkar, camp at, i. 74;

arrangement of caravan on leaving, 75

Lunkar-gompa monastery, ii. 391

Lunkar-la pass, ii. 392

Lunpo-gangri, peaks of, varying views, ii. 325 ff.

Lying, successful, Tibetan admiration of, ii. 350

Mabie-tangsam-angmo, camp at, ii. 389

Ma Chi Fu, Chinese official from Lhasa, i. 400, 402

Machung village, symbolic designs at, i. 421

M'Swiney, Colonel, i. 16

Ma Daloi, Chinese commander in Shigatse, i. 296, 315;

celebration of Chinese New Year, 345;

orders me to leave Shigatse, 391

Madö Gemo, the fish-god of Tso-mavang, ii. 130

Ma-lung, river, i. 277

Mamer, village of, i. 36

Manasarowar, "the holy lake," ii. 106;

Hindu veneration for, 110;

surpassing beauty of the lake and its surroundings, 111;

Tibetan superstitions as to, 112, 114;

former levels, 113;

our first sail on, 114;

soundings and temperatures of, 115 ff.;

lightning effects on, 115;

wonderful natural phenomena, 116, 117;

long voyage on, 121;

pilgrims at, 121, 133;

the lamas of Gossul-gompa astonished, 122;

outlets of, 122;

storm on, 123;

peculiar wave undulations, 127;

map of shore-line drawn, 128;

origin of lake determined, 128;

Tugu-gompa and Yanggo-gompa, 130, 132;

Hindu homage to the, 133;

terrific storm on, 136-140;

succour from Gossul-gompa, 141, 142;

monks' contradictory statements as to, 147;

its sanctity, 151;

springs of, 156, 158;

underground connection with Langak-tso, 157, 168;

outline of, 158;

Chiu-gompa, 159;

our last days on, 160;

Pundi-gompa and Langbo-nan monasteries, 162, 163;

amount of surface water flowing into, 163;

channel between Langak-tso and, 168, 180, 186;

Chergip-gompa, 165;

freezing of, 180;

journey along northern shore, 415

_Mani ringmos_, or stone cists covered with slabs i. 61

Mankogh-la pass, i. 80

Manlung valley, i. 78

Manuel, cook to author, i. 21;

his broken English, 99;

sent home from Lake Lighten, 102, 106

Maps referred to:

of Nain Sing, i. 250, 258; ii, 21, 29, 41, 302, 380, 403;

Ryder and Wood, 41, 85, 90, 405;

Webber, 89;

D'Anville, 185, 186, 327, 401;

Hodgson, 401;

Dufour, 401;

Saunders, 402;

Atkinson, 402;

Krishna, 404

March, length of a day's, i. 73

Marchar-tso, lake, i. 258

Marium-chu, river, ii. 90

Marium-la pass, crossed by Nain Sing, ii. 89

Markham, Sir Clements, book by, mentioned, ii. 402

Markham, Lake, discovered and named by Captain Rawling, i. 148

Marku-tso, lake, i. 224

Marnyak-la pass, ii. 104

Marsimik-la pass, slow progress of caravan over, i. 76;

disagreeable descent of, 77

Martsang-tsangpo, river, ii. 90

Marx, Dr. Karl, i. 54

Marx, Rev. Mr., missionary at Poo, ii. 417

Massieu, Madame, meeting with, at Taranda, ii. 419

Matayun, camp at, i. 39;

disturbance in caravan at, 39

Mausoleums of five Tashi Lamas in Tashi-lunpo, i. 330-338

Medicine-chest, a popular, i. 29, 172;

presented to the Tashi Lama, 316

Memo-chutsen, warm spring of, ii. 373

Memory, examples of marvellous, i. 151

Men-chu, river, ii. 68

Men-chu valley, camp in, ii. 69

Mendicants, Tibetan, i. 217

Mendong-gompa monastery, tent-villages

of, ii. 380

Menu, a tempting, i. 184

Merke-sang, view from, ii. 388

Meteorological observations, i. 142

Minto, Countess of, i. 13, 14, 19; ii. 422

Minto, Earl of, Viceroy of India, efforts on behalf of author, i. 9;

State dinner and levée by, 12;

receives author as his guest, 13;

his popularity in India, and State service, 13;

family life of, 14;

author's farewell to, and family, 19;

hospitality of, ii. 420;

speech to my followers, 421;

good-bye to, 422

Mirage, perplexing effects of, i. 94; ii. 273

Mittag-Leffler, Professor, Stockholm University, ii. 406

Mogbo-dimrop country, i. 199;

gloomy news in, 200

Mohanlal, merchant of Leh, i. 45, 53

Mohanlal, Hindu doctor, ii. 416

Mollah Shah, a former follower, met with, ii. 234

Monks in Tashi-lunpo, religious ceremonies by, i. 348 ff.;

grades and number of, 351, 352;

daily life of, 358, 366;

great consumption of tea among, 359, 361;

voluntary immurement of certain, 363;

strict rule enforced, 364;

manufacture of images by, 367;

funeral customs, 369

Monlam-gongma, ii. 325

Monsoon rains, importance of, ii. 68

Montgomerie, Colonel T. G., ii. 89, 403

Moravian missionaries in Leh, kindness of, i. 54;

admirable work among the Ladakis, 54, 55

Morley, Lord, Secretary of State for India, i. 8, 9, 11;

explains refusal of permission to enter Tibet, 10

Muglib, muster of camp and inspection of animals at, i. 69

Muhamed Isa, my caravan leader, i. 30;

experience and qualifications, 46, 47;

his preparations for equipment of caravan, 48;

watchful care exercised by, 76;

his opinion of the Rajput escort, 78;

way-marks erected by, 83, 149;

sets out for Gyangtse, 391, 396;

arranges festivities in Basang camp, ii. 47;

leaves with main caravan for Saka, 47;

illness and sufferings of, 52, 53;

his death, 54;

funeral of, 56;

appreciations of, 57, 58;

inscription on tombstone, 58;

Guffaru appointed his successor, 59;

Mohammedans hold memorial feast, 60;

depressing effects of his death, 62

Muhamed Rehim, merchant from Khotan, ii. 234

Mukchung-simo massive, Kubi-gangri, ii. 100, 102

Mukden, Christmas 1908 spent in, ii. 248

Mules, comparison of Poonch and Tibetan, i. 28, 198;

heavy losses of, 149, 162, 163, 197;

our new animals at Gar-gunsa, ii. 220;

tonic effects of whisky on, 260, 264;

death of our last veteran, 261

Mundang, Nepal, caravan from, ii. 75

Munjam valley, ii. 212

Mun-tso, twin lakes, position of, ii. 380

My-chu-tsangpo, river, i. 269, 272;

complicated system of, 276;

confluence of Dok-chu with, 422;

journey up valley of, 423 ff.;

scenery of, 428;

an eccentric guide, 428;

commercial importance of valley route, 429

Nadsum, camp at, i. 217

Nagma-tsangpo (Chuma), river, ii. 28

Nagor, the Gova of, ii. 84

Nagrong valley, monk-doctor's tent in, ii. 296;

animals and stores purchased in, 297

Nain Sing, his discovery of great lakes of central Tibet, i. 3;

nomenclature of Bogtsang-tsangpo district, 206;

outline of the Ngangtse-tso, 230;

maps of, referred to, 250, 258; ii. 21, 29, 41, 302, 380, 403;

on source of Brahmaputra, 89

Nakbo-gongrong-gangri, mountain, ii. 376

Nakbo-kongdo-la pass, ii. 376

Nakchu, pilgrims from, i. 200;

purchases from, 202

Naktsang, Governor of, refuses to allow caravan to proceed, i. 236,

243, 247;

previous trouble with, 238;

meetings with, 242, 247;

his treatment by the Devashung, 243, 251, 376;

my proposals to, 244;

unexpected change of front by, 249;

eclipse of sun explained to, 254;

cordial leave-taking, 257

Naktsang, horsemen from, our progress stopped by, ii. 26;

palaver and agreement with, 27;

costumes and equipment of, 31

Namachang district, camp in, i. 261

Namarding valley, camp in, ii. 107

Nama-shu, camp at, ii. 80

Namchen valley, joint camp in the, ii. 362;

stores laid in at, 364;

renewed discussion of my return route at meeting in, 364

Namgyal-lhakang temple, Tashi-lunpo, service in, i. 362

Namla, village of, ii. 85

Namla-gompa monastery, ii. 85

Namreldi, valley and stream, ii. 156

Nangsang-la pass, ii. 92

Naong-rung valley, i. 263

Naong-tsangpo, river, i. 262

Nayala, mountain, i. 415

Nazer Shah, Hajji, a wealthy patriarch of Leh, i. 55;

lucrative monopoly in family of, 56;

services rendered to author by his sons, 56, 377, 384; ii. 217-221;

commercial interests in Shigatse, i. 385

Nebuk, village of, ii. 80

Neka district, camp in, i. 214;

sickness in caravan at, 214

Nema-tok, camp at, ii. 310

Nepal, the Consul of, at Tashi-lunpo, i. 304, 374;

a stolen visit into, ii. 79;

temptation to extend journey southwards, 81

Nerung-tsangpo, river, ii. 84

Neve, Dr. Arthur, Srinagar, i. 23

Neve, Dr. Ernest, i. 23

New Year, Chinese, celebration of, i. 345

New Year Festival, Tashi-lunpo:

its popularity, i. 301;

our dress for, and journey to, 303;

a picturesque assemblage, 304;

dresses at, 305;

reasons for increase of interest in, 306;

an enthralling hymn-chant, 308;

arrival of the Tashi Lama and his court, 309;

religious dances and masques, 311;

effect on the spectators, 313;

a symbolic fire, 314;

combined dance of lamas, 315;

general purpose and significance of the ceremonies, 315

Ngangga, or Ganga, channel between Manasarowar and the Langak-tso, ii.

180, 186

Nganglaring-tso, lake, irregular outline of, ii. 398

Ngangtse-tso, lake, rest at, i. 223;

thickness of ice of, 224;

hermit's cave at, 225;

soundings on, 226 ff.;

sledge constructed, 226;

singular ice-effects, 227-239;

New Year's Day 1907 on, 230;

Nain Sing's outline of, 230;

crustaceæ in, 231;

trying weather on, 232;

letter with bad news from Robert, 236;

meetings with Governor of Naktsang at, 242, 247;

arrival of mail-bag, 254;

reasons for remembering the, 257

Ngartang, bivouac in, i. 277

Ngavang, joint Governor of Saka-dzong, ii. 353, 368

Ngomo-dingding, glaciers of, ii. 92, 96, 101

Ngurbu Tondup, our mail-carrier to Gyangtse, i. 260, 274;

brings us good news, 282

Ngurkung-la pass, ii. 76

Nien-chen-tang-la range, geographical importance of, i. 267, 272; ii.

19, 330;

questions as to its direction and extent, 217, 324

Nima-lung-la pass, ii. 324

Nima-pendi valley, ii. 129

Nima Tashi, chief of escort, ii. 366

No Man's Land, i. 94

Nomads, first meeting with, i. 179, 181;

from Naktsang, 199;

from Senkor, ii. 290

Nubra, i. 64

Nuns, in Tashi-lunpo, i. 353, 356;

in Mendong-gompa, ii. 386

Nurla station-house, i. 43

Nyandi-gompa monastery, ii. 190;

periodic increase of pilgrims to, 191;

halls of, 191

Nyang-chu, river, i. 294

Nyang-tö-ki-pu, hermits' caves at, ii. 8

Nyanyo, village in Nepal, ii. 80

Nyapchu-tsangpo, river, ii. 393

Nyuku, friendliness of Gova of, ii. 60, 67;

arrival and camp at, 67

Oang Gye, son of Governor of Saka-dzong, ii. 353, 368;

his grief at shooting of wild-goose, 362

O'Connor, Major W. F., British Trade Agent at Gyangtse, i. 244, 389;

interpreter to the Tashi Lama in India, 322;

welcome surprise from, 377;

correspondence with, 389;

Muhamed Isa despatched to, 391, 396;

gift of books from, ii. 43, 224

Ogawa, Professor, Kioto University, translation by, ii. 183

Ogorung-tsangpo, river, ii. 13

"Om mani padme hum," Tibetan sacred formula, i. 44; ii. 9, 48;

Waddell's remarks on, 204;

universality of, 204-206;

Köppen and Grünwedel's translation of, 204

Ombo, nomads from, i. 208

_Ombo_, shrub used for fuel, ii. 296

Pabla, mountain range, i. 260;

solution of important geographical problem of the, 267, 272

Pachen valley, ii. 112, 126, 161

Pachung valley, ii. 112, 126, 161

Padma Sambhava, founder of Lamaism, i. 312; ii. 29

_Pama_, species of juniper, ii. 13

Pama valley, ii. 79

Pamzal, i. 78, 80

Panchen Rinpoche, "the Great Precious Teacher." _See_ Tashi Lama

Panchor, brother of Kamba Tsenam, ii. 342;

acts as our guide, 366;

doubtful character of, 372, 376, 378

Panggong pass, i. 70

Panggong-tso, lake, i. 70;

previous visit to, 70

Pangsetak, camp at, ii. 45

Pankur country, ii. 290

Parka, baggage sent to, ii. 166;

camp at, 179

Parka Tasam, threats by, ii. 178

Partridges, shooting of, causes suspicion, ii. 304

Parva valley, camp above the, ii. 33

Pasa-guk, village of, ii. 65;

unreliable data in, 66

Passes of the Trans-Himalaya, principal, ii. 408;

unknown, crossed by author, 409;

average height of, 410

Passport, Chinese, ultimate value of, i. 299;

cancelling of, 395;

terms of my new, 398; ii. 21, 27

Pathans of escort, i. 28;

difficulties with, 38;

dismissed from caravan, 41

Pati-bo, district of, i. 207

Patterson, Captain, Joint-Commissioner of Ladak, kindness of, i. 46, 47;

addresses caravan before starting, 51

Pears, Colonel, Resident at Srinagar, letter from, i. 25

Pedang-tsangpo, valley of the, ii. 394, 396

_Peling_, or European, i. 200

Pemba Tsering, of Saka, ii. 60, 63, 348, 354

Pensa, Gova, ii. 390

Pere-pala, Nepalese merchants' serai in Shigatse, i. 374

Permanakbo-tang valley, camp in, i. 279

Peter, Rev. Mr., Leh, i. 51, 54

Pike-la pass, i. 213

Pilgrimage of prostration, description of, ii. 199

Pilgrims, meeting with, and purchases from, i. 200, 202;

on the Tsangpo, 292;

in Tashi-lunpo, 353, 356;

devotional exercises, 357;

my experiences of Mecca, ii. 69;

Hindu, at Manasarowar, 133, 153;

on journey round Kailas, 192, 197;

mental sketch of great routes of, 203

Pinzoling, bridge at, i. 416

Pobrang village, meeting with English sportsmen at, i. 71;

rest for man and beast at, 72;

arrangements made for letters, 72;

our last point of contact with outer world, 72, 74

Political complications:

Tibetan Government officials' visit in Shigatse, i. 375;

orders from Tibetan and Chinese Governments, 388, 391;

advice from Gaw Daloi, 392;

letters to Chinese and Tibetan State officials, 393;

Chinese supremacy, 395;

letter from Chang Yin Tang, 397

Pongchen-la pass, i. 260

Poo, Moravian missionaries' hospitality at, ii. 417;

Takkar's return to, 418

Poonch, mules from, compared with Tibetan, i. 28;

trouble with men from, 39

Porung valley, sulphurous springs in, i. 269

Poru-tso, lake, view of, ii. 392

Potu-la pass, i. 42

Prayer formula, Tibetan, i. 301, 357, 404, 408

Prayer-mills, in Tashi-lunpo, i. 360;

in Tashi-gembe, 413;

ubiquity of, ii. 205

Priesthood, orders of, i. 351;

domination of the, in Tibet, 384

Prostration pilgrimage, description of, ii. 199

Pu-chu, valley of, ii. 40

Pul-tso, lake, camp at, i. 131;

sudden storms at, 133, 136;

soundings and

measurements, 133-135;

crustaceæ in, 134;

mysterious camp-fire, 135

Pundi, double peaks of, ii. 112, 126, 171

Pundi-gompa monastery, ii. 162

Pung-chu, river, ii. 85

Punjab, Lieutenant-Governor of the, i. 12

Puntsuk, Tibetan nomad, i. 189, 191

Pupchung-tsangpo, river, i. 264

Purang, epidemic of smallpox at, ii. 92

_Pustin_, Yarkand fur coat, i. 74

Pusum village, camp at, i. 415

Quadt, Count, German Consul-General, dinner given at Simla by, i. 16

Quetta, i. 5

Rabsang, biographical details of, i. 151

Races, mixture of, in caravan, i. 31

Radak valley, ii. 353

Raga-tasam, camp at, ii. 41;

route of Rawling's expedition touched at, 41;

messengers despatched to Shigatse from, 42;

camp life at, 43;

Tibetan Government's instructions regarding author, 44;

visit of the Gova of, 63

Raga-tsangpo, river. _See_ Dok-chu

Ragok valley, i. 206

Rains, importance of monsoon, ii. 68;

our first, since leaving Ladak, 74

Rajputs of escort, i. 28;

Muhamed Isa's opinion of, 78, 103;

sent home at Lake Lighten, 102, 106

Rakas-tal. _See_ Langak-tso

Rambirpur, village of, i. 63

Rartse plain, arrival of missing followers at camp in the, ii. 399

Ravak-la pass, ii. 45

Ravens, pertinacity of, i. 143, 148, 155, 164

Rawalpindi, i. 21

Rawling, Captain C. G., i. 16, 51;

discovers Captain Deasy's stores at the Yeshil-kul, 129;

maps out Yeshil-kul district, 130, 137;

Lake Markham discovered and named by, 148;

expedition to Gartok under, ii. 90

Rehim Ali, lessons in rowing to, i. 108;

terror of, in storm on Lake Lighten, 113;

attacked by wild yak, 176;

sacrifice offered up by, 194

Religions, various, in caravan, i. 31, 53

Ribbach, Mr. and Mrs., Leh, i. 55

Richen-chu, river, ii. 132

Richung-chu, river, ii. 129

Rickshaws, reason for their abundance in Simla, i. 17

Rigi-hloma, Gova of, interesting information by the, ii. 393

_Rikchen_, order of priesthood, i. 351

Rinakchutsen, lake, camp at, i. 198

_Ringding_, order of priesthood, i. 351

Riochung country, camp in the, ii. 276

Robbers, in the Chaktak-tsangpo country, ii. 335;

Tibetan punishment of, 336

Robert, my faithful servant and meteorological assistant, i. 29, 39,

142, 150;

medical skill of, 171;

home-sickness of, ii. 62;

bad news received by, 219;

my parting with, 229

Rock valley, ii. 67

Rock-drawings in Dok-chu valley, i. 422

Ronggak-chu, river, ii. 104

Ruins, encouraging effect of discovery of, i. 169

Rukyok-tsangpo, river, and valley, ii. 69, 334

Rung valley, bivouac in, i. 277

Rung-chu, river, i. 280

Rungma, village of, i. 285, 403

Ryder and Wood, maps by, referred to, ii. 41, 85, 90, 405

Sachu-tsangpo, river, ii. 327;

camp at the, 361

Sadung, camp at, i. 403

Saka, permission for excursion granted by Governor of, ii. 47;

arrival at, 51;

difficulties with officials of, 60;

longing to get away from, 61;

village life, 62;

search-party from, visit our camp, 345;

my return route discussed with the Governor of, 355-359, 364

Sakti, village of, i. 64

Saka-gompa monastery, ii. 62

Salt-caravans, ii. 64, 323, 329

Salt lakes, gradual shrinking of Tibetan, i. 91;

importance of their product, 193

Salutation, Tibetan form of, i. 182, 240, 280, 429

Samde-puk convent, ii. 1;

hermit's cell near, 2

_Samkang_, or hermit's cave, i. 224

Samo-tsangpo, river, fish of, ii. 107

Samye-la pass, hydrographical and geographical importance of, ii. 329;

unbroken continuance of the Trans-Himalaya proved at, 330;

not on the same chain as the Angden-la, 330

Sanchen-la pass, ii. 310

Sandhills, shifting, on the Brahmaputra, ii. 86

Sand-spout, near Amchok-yung, ii. 36

Sangchen-chu, river, camp at the, ii. 308

Sangge-ngamo-buk, visit from chief of, ii. 383

Sangmo-bertik valley, ii. 375

Sangmo-bertik-la pass, ii. 377

Sangra, mountain, i. 264

Sangra-palhe valley, i. 265

Saspul, i. 44

Satsot-la pass, ii. 322

Saunders, map by, ii. 202

Schnabel, Rev. Mr., missionary at Poo, ii. 417

Search-party from Saka, ii. 345;

their instructions regarding us, 346, 349;

my recognition of Pemba Tsering and interview with, 348-350;

agree to accompany them to Semoku, 350

Sekya monastery, i. 281

Sela-la pass, i. 267, 272;

triumphant reflections at, 268

Sele-nang valley, i. 266, 268

Selin-do, camp at, i. 268

Selipuk-gompa monastery, abbot of, ii. 399;

earthquake at, 399

Selung-urdu valley and glacier, ii. 156

Semoku, journey to, ii. 353;

meeting with Governor of Saka-dzong in, 355-359;

mutual courtesies at, 360

Senes-yung-ringmo, ii. 285

Sen-kamba-la pass, ii. 103

Senkor, nomads from, ii. 290

Seoyinna, mountain, i. 189

Serchung-la pass, view from, ii. 69

Sereding, hill, i. 266

Serme-lartsa, ii. 40

Serolung valley, camp at, ii. 113

Serolung-gompa monastery, ii. 112

Serpo-tsunge, mountain, i. 266

Serpun-lam, the, great high-road of, ii. 321, 394

Sershik-gompa monastery, ii. 29

Sertsang-chu, river, visit of Tibetans at, i. 217

Sha-kangsham, mountain, ii. 302, 306, 310, 322, 381

Shak-chu, river, ii. 20

Sha-la pass, ii. 36

Shalung-la pass, ii. 371

Sham valley, camp in, i. 275

Shamsang, camp at, ii. 88

Shangbuk-la pass, ii. 25, 32

Shang-chu, river, i. 272

Shapka, camp at, ii. 95

Shapku-chu stream, ii. 97

Shargul, lama temple at, i. 42

Shar-tso, lake, ii. 306

Shawe, Dr., Leh, i. 54

Sheep, return of our missing, i. 165;

wild, 174; ii. 252, 310, 380;

used as pack-animals, 289, 334

Sheep-driving, author's inaptitude for, ii. 299

Shemen-tso, lake, camp at, ii. 270;

journey along, 272

Sherring, Mr. C. A., ii. 128;

kindness of, and Mrs., 144

Sheryak, camp in, ii. 92

Shey monastery, i. 61

Shialung valley, camp near, ii. 236

Shib-la-yilung valley, i. 271

Shigatse, arrival at, i. 295;

interview with commander of Chinese garrison, 296;

remains of caravan at, 297;

visited by Tibetan officials at, 298;

impression made by my Chinese passport, 299;

permission to attend New Year Festival in Tashi-lunpo, 299;

description of Festival, 301-315;

return Ma Daloi's visit, 315;

arrangements for visit to the Tashi Lama, 316;

architecture of, 340;

Dzong of, 340, 377;

sports-meeting at, 341-345;

Chinese New Year celebration, 345;

gruesome funeral customs, 370;

Lhasa Government officials' visit to me, 375;

arrival of correspondence, 377;

assistance rendered by Gulam Kadir, 377;

market-place of, 378;

system of espionage in, 379;

sketches of women in, 380;

variety of types and costumes, 382;

visit to Kung Gushuk, 385;

Chinese intrigues in, 390;

review of my position, 394;

sudden cordiality of authorities in, 398;

formal council held, and my return route specified, 398;

a canine interlude in, 399;

preparations for departure from, 400;

messengers despatched from Raga-tasam to, ii. 42

Shipki, village of, ii. 417

Shipki-la pass, farewell to Tibet from, ii. 417

Shooting competitions, Tibetan, i. 343

Shovo-tso, lake, camp on shore of, ii. 396

Shukkur Ali, uniform cheerfulness of, i. 52

Shuru-tso, lake, i. 216; ii. 25;

terraces of, 33;

unusual direction of, 33;

storm on, 34;

shape of, 34

Shyok valley, wretched journey through the, ii. 230-232;

farewell festival in village, 232;

caravan derelicts in, 237;

canine happy event, 238;

enormous wastage of horses in, 240, 245;

scarcity of provender, 241;

our complicated situation, 242;

miserable camping-places, 242, 246;

Mohammedan hymn in, 246

Simla, scenery of railway journey to, i. 5;

arrival at, and welcome by Sir Francis Younghusband, 6;

anxious moments in, 7;

State functions in Viceregal Lodge, 12, 17; ii. 420;

rickshaws in, i. 17;

Lord Kitchener's house in, 18; ii. 422;

departure from, i. 20;

return to, ii. 420;

residence in Viceregal Lodge, i. 13; ii. 420;

hospitality of Colonel Dunlop Smith and Lord Kitchener, 420, 422;

lecture before the Viceregal Court, 421;

good-bye to my Ladakis and Little Puppy in, 422

Sind, valley of the, i. 35

Singi-buk, camp at, ii. 210

Singi-chava, ii. 212

Singi-kabab, source of the Indus, ii. 210, 212

Singi-tsangpo, or Indus, ii. 210

Singi-yüra, ii. 212

Singrul, camp at, i. 65

Sirchung, village of, i. 425

Skulls as drinking-vessels, Liktse-gompa, ii. 75

Sledges, on the Ngangtse-tso, i. 226

Smallpox epidemic at Purang, ii. 92

"Snoring Kunchuk," ii. 299, 333;

new title for, 379

Snowstorm, a terrific, ii. 269

Sogbarong Tsering Tundup, Tibetan nomad, ii. 288

Soma-tsangpo, river, camp at, ii. 380;

journey along the, 386

Sonam Ngurbu, Governor of Chokchu, ii. 399

Sonamarg, bivouac at, i. 37

Sonam Tsering, leader of advance caravan, i. 51;

in charge of the mules, 72;

points out Deasy's depot, 129

So valley, i. 284

Source of the Brahmaputra, ii. 96, 101;

of the Sutlej, 129, 153, 180;

of the Indus, 212

Spanglung valley, camp near, i. 78

Spittol monastery, i. 45

Sports, Tibetan, i. 341-345

Srinagar, scenery of journey to, i. 22;

arrival at, 23;

dinner-table talk about author, 24;

interview with the Maharaja of Kashmir's private secretary, 24;

fête at, 27;

equipment of caravan, 28;

departure from, 30;

puppies taken from, 34;

plates and rock specimens sent to, 103

Srong Tsan Ganpo, wives of, i. 333

Stagna-gompa monastery, i. 63

Stockholm, departure from, i. 4

Stok, the Raja of, letter of recommendation from, i. 57, 298

Stokpa, village of, i. 57

Stoliczka, Dr., monument in Leh, i. 59

Stone, impressions in, i. 337, 406

Storm, a thirty-days', ii. 283 ff.

Sulphur springs, Chuta district, i. 82;

in Porung valley, 269;

at the Chunit-tso, ii. 323

Sultak, i. 67

Sumdang-tsangpo, river, ii. 398

Sun, eclipse of the, i. 252

Sung-chu, river, ii. 181

Surnge-la pass, ii. 400

Sur-la pass, ii. 393

Sutlej, the, source of, ii. 129, 153, 180, 188;

old bed of, 181;

Tibetan name of, and assertions regarding its origin, 182;

translation of Chinese extract as to its source, 183;

its source and that of the Tage-tsangpo the same, 184, 188;

accuracy of Chi Chao Nan's statements regarding, 185;

Colonel Burrard on drainage area of, 187

Tabie-tsaka, lake, salt-caravans from, ii. 64, 323;

location of the, 322;

view of, 392

Tagar, village of, i. 64

Tage-bup valley, ii. 105

Tage-tsangpo river, ii. 105, 107;

measurements of, 129;

its source that of the Sutlej, 184, 188

Tagla Tsering, chief of Sangge-ngamo-buk, visit from, ii. 383

Tagrak-tsangpo, river, i. 261, 264

Tagramoche district, bivouac in, ii. 105

Takbur district, high-handed behaviour of chief of, ii. 49, 50;

abundance of game in, 50

Takbur-la pass, ii. 50

Takkar, our Tibetan dog, ii. 305, 307, 319;

his antipathy to Tibetans, 322, 377;

devours wolf-cub, 399;

returns to Poo, 418

Takyung Lama, abbot of Mendong-gompa, ii. 315, 318

Ta-la, or "Horse Pass," view from, i. 278

_Talkan_, or roasted meal, i. 53

Tambak valley, ii. 84

Tamchok-kamba (Brahmaputra), river, i. 403, 417

Tamlung-la pass, important watershed of, ii. 104, 129

Tamlung-tso, lake, ii. 104

Tanak (Black Horse) valley, camp in, i. 286, 403

Tanak-puchu valley, i. 286

Tang Darin. _See_ Chang Yin Tang

Tangna, village of, i. 417

Tang-yung province, Tibetan visitors from, i. 212, 214

Tang-yung-tsaka, lake, i. 208

Tanjur, one of the two Tibetan Bibles, i. 412

_Tanka_, or pictorial banner, i. 318

Tankse, auxiliary horses hired from, i. 50, 67;

camp and rest at, 67;

festivities in caravan at, 68;

men from, petition to be allowed to return home, 102;

parting with my Ladakis at, ii. 225

Tankse, river, i. 67

Tarbung-la pass, ii. 25

Tarchen-labrang, ii. 190, 198, 202

Targo-gangri, view of the, ii. 20, 22, 381;

glaciers of, 25, 32

Targo-tsangpo, river, ii. 21;

valley of, 22;

our progress stopped at the, 26;

terraces of, 26, 30

Targot-la pass, ii. 30

Targyaling-gompa monastery, camp below, ii. 64;

intolerant behaviour of lamas of, 65;

plundered by robbers, 315

Tarmatse-tso, lake, i. 214

Tarok-tso, lake, position of, ii. 325;

described, 391

_Tarpoche_, or votive pole, i. 280

Tarting-choro, village of, i. 404

Tarting-gompa monastery, i. 283, 405;

sepulchres of high priests of, 406;

preparations for deceased lama's funeral

pyre at, 407;

reflections on monastic life, 408

_Tasam_, or high-road, ii. 41

Tasang-la pass, ii. 84

Tashi, despatched to Shigatse, ii. 42;

his return and adventures, 71

Tashi-gembe monastery, i. 218, 411;

the two Tibetan Bibles in, 412;

temples of, 412;

incongruous European figures in, 413;

prayer-cylinders in, 413;

brilliant colouring of, 414

Tashi Lama, the, increased prestige of, i. 307, 323;

kindness to us at New Year Festival, 310;

my visit to, 317;

dress and general appearance of, 319;

his kindly reception of author, 319;

intelligence and shrewd questions of, 320, 354;

his pleasant recollections of visit to India, 321;

widespread power of, 322;

previous visits of Europeans to, 322;

attributes and functions of the Dalai Lama and, 323;

favours granted to author by, 324;

medicine-chest presented to, 325;

ineffaceable impressions left by, 325, 355;

ceremonies observed on the approaching death of a, 327;

method of choosing his successor, 327;

mausoleums of previous Tashi Lamas, 330;

record length of service of first, 331;

visit of third Tashi Lama to Pekin, 334;

footprint of, 337;

photograph taken of, 354;

presents gifts to author, 355;

rigidly prescribed life of, 356;

his anxious questioning of author, 392;

farewell greetings from, 402

Tashi-lunpo, New Year Festival in, i. 301-316;

a cloister town, 330;

the Labrang, 330;

aerial street system in, 330;

mausoleums of earlier Tashi Lamas, 330-338;

date of foundation, 331;

library of, 333;

temple of Tsong Kapa, 335;

a sacred staircase, 337;

clerical tailors in, 348;

religious ceremonies witnessed, 348 ff.;

grades and numbers of monks, 351, 352;

bells of, 351;

nuns and pilgrims in, 353, 356;

author's interview with the Tashi Lama, 354;

pilgrims' devotional exercises in, 357;

sources of income, 358;

monks' life in, 358, 366;

prayer-mills of, 360;

tea a favourite beverage in, 359, 361;

kitchen of, 361;

the walling-up of certain monks, 363;

the Dena-lhakang temple, 365;

manufacture of images, 367;

funeral customs, 369;

last visit to, 393

Tayep-parva-la pass, ii. 397

Tea, Tibetan, i. 247;

monks' fondness for, in Tashi-lunpo, 359;

enormous infusions of, 361

Tea-pots, costly, i. 350

Teheran, Christmas 1905 spent in, ii. 248

Tela-mata-la pass, ii. 397

Telegrams to British Prime Minister, i. 8, 390

Temperature, sudden change of, i. 75;

records of low, 155, 173, 199, 207, 258, 274;

lowest recorded by author in Asia, ii. 259

Temple, lama, i. 42

_Tenga_, Tibetan coin, i. 56

Teri-nam-tso, "the heavenly lake," ii. 381;

its salinity, 384;

journey along southern shore, 384;

different pronunciations, and meaning of the name, 384;

extent of, and height above sea-level, 384

Terkung-rung valley, Lhasa caravan in, i. 270;

importance of road through, 270

Teta-la pass, view from, ii. 380

Thakur Jai Chand, Gartok, ii. 107, 215, 417;

provisions and letters from, 144

Thirteen, the number, prominence of, in author's journey, i. 20, 249;

ii. 236

Thirty-days' storm, a, ii. 283 ff.

Tibetan Government, the, vindictive treatment of the Governor of

Naktsang by, i. 243, 251, 376;

proclamation on retiral of British expedition, 245;

author visited by two officials from, 375, 376;

system of spies, 379;

orders to author to leave the country, 388;

increased stringency of, regarding Europeans, ii. 356

Tibetan language, author's lessons in, ii. 277

Tigu-tang, dangerous roadway of, i. 430

Tikze, monastery and village of, i. 61;

camp at, 62

Ting-la pass, view from, ii. 22

Tirtapuri monastery, parting with followers at, ii. 416

Titles, high-sounding, applied to author, ii. 393

Toa-nadsum, bivouac at, i. 262

Tokchen, the Gova of, ii. 107, 110;

caravan reduced at, 107;

valley of, 110;

return to, 400;

departure from, 415

Tok-jonsung, bivouac at, ii. 91

Tokpas, Tibetan gold-diggers, i. 189

Tombs of the Tashi Lamas, i. 330-338

Tong, the Gova of, i. 424

Tong-tso, bivouac on shore of the, ii. 302

Tongue, protrusion of the, Tibetan salutation, i. 240, 280, 429

Tooth, Mr. Lucas, the last European seen by author for two years, i. 71

Topelius, Christmas song of the poet, quoted, i. 219

Tormakaru, mountain, i. 264

Torno-shapko, unfriendliness of nomads at, i. 217

Totling-gompa monastery, news from the outer world at, ii. 416

Tova-tova, district of, i. 262

Tradum, the Gova of, ii. 60, 69, 70, 73, 83;

camp at village of, 72;

excursion from, 73

Tradum-gompa monastery, ii. 73;

hermit's dwelling at, 73

Trans-Himalaya, the, author's first crossing of, i. 268;

geographical and climatic importance of, 273; ii. 20, 35;

approach to main crest of, 13;

second crossing of, 19;

third crossing, 35;

fourth and fifth crossings of, 209, 215;

sixth crossing, 239;

its unbroken continuance proved, 330;

seventh and eighth crossings, 377, 400;

previous attempts to map out, and books treating of, 401-405;

Ryder and Wood's bearings of, 405;

statement regarding wall-maps in Venice, 406;

principal passes of, 408;

previously unknown passes crossed by author, 409;

length and breadth of, and average height of passes, 410;

general comparison of, with the Himalayan system, 410;

author's reason for use of name, 412;

opinions for and against the title, 412, 413

Treaty, new, between Great Britain and Russia, ii. 221

Tree, miraculous, in Kum-bum monastery, i. 335

Tsa-chu-tsangpo, river, junction with upper Brahmaputra, ii. 74

Tsaktserkan, author's official attendant in Shigatse, i. 302, 353

Tsalam-nakta-la pass, ii. 376

_Tsamba_, or parched meal, i. 215

Tsangpo (upper Brahmaputra), river, i. 284;

formation and fertility of valley, 284, 285;

varying nomenclature of, 287;

description of boats on, 288;

varied scenery of, 290, 293;

day-dreams on, 291;

pilgrim parties on, 292, 293;

dust-storms, 402, 403

Tsasa-la pass, ii. 75

Tsechung-tso, lake, ii. 95

Tsepagmed, seated figure of Buddha, i. 355

Tsering, cook to author, i. 152;

loquacity of, 157, 161;

vocal powers of, ii. 13

Tsering Dava, Tibetan nomad, i. 189, 191

Tseti-la pass, ii. 208

Tseti-lachen-la pass, ii. 209

Tso, district of, ii. 80

Tso-kharki-tsangpo, river, ii. 80

Tso-mavang. _See_ Manasarowar

Tsong Kapa, temple of, in Tashi-lunpo, i. 335, 362;

reforms Lamaism and introduces monastic celibacy, 335

Tsongpun Tashi, merchant from Lhasa, ii. 308, 311;

purchases from, 315;

visits our camp, 316;

his suspicions, 317

Tso-niti, pools of, ii. 93

Tso-niti-kargang pass, ii. 92

Tso-nyak, lake, ii. 106

Tso-ri, or "Lake Mountain," the, i. 219

Tsotot-karpo, lake, ii. 83

Tsukchung-chang pass, i. 417

Tsumtul-pu monastery, bivouac on roof of, ii. 202

Tubges, huntsman to caravan, ii. 323

Tugden-gompa monastery, i. 409;

statues in, 410

Tugri-la pass, ii. 103

Tugu-gompa monastery, ii. 130;

wool-market at, 130;

interesting picture in, 131;

shrine of lake-god in, 131;

monks' offering to their god on author's behalf, 145;

translation of inscription in, 154

Tugu-lhamo, height, i. 206

Tuksum, the Gova of, ii. 86;

grants permission to author to travel on south side of river, 87

Tumsang valley, i. 268

Tundup Sonam, huntsman to caravan, i. 131, 139, 144, 150, 154, 164, 191;

despatched to Shigatse, ii. 42;

his return and adventures, 71

Turkestan, Eastern, ostensible object of expedition, i. 23, 25;

passport for, requested from Swedish Minister in London, 25

Tuta, camp at, ii. 389

Tuto-pukpa, mountain, ii. 72

Tynchung valley, camp in, ii. 104

Ugyu, Tibetan youth, his wonderful recovery from bullet-wound, ii. 46

Ujam-tso, lake, ii. 85

Umbo district, camp in the, ii. 91

Ushy, village of, ii. 361

Ushy-la pass, ii. 361

Utensils, Tibetan domestic, ii. 15

Vezir Vezarat, the, i. 41;

author's headquarters in house of, at Leh, 45

Viceregal Lodge, Simla, State functions in, i. 12, 17; ii. 420;

author's quarters in, i. 13; ii. 420;

description of, i. 14

Vultures, abandonment of Tibetan dead to the, i. 371; ii. 11

Waddell, work on Buddhism by, cited, i. 329 _n._;

opinion on monastic seclusion, ii. 9;

on Tibetan sacred formula, 204

Wakkha, river, i. 41

Walker, Dr. Gilbert, Simla, presents from, ii. 223

Wallenberg, Herr G. O., Swedish Ambassador in Pekin, i. 391

Wall-paintings in Tugu-gompa, ii. 130

Weather, Tibetan, i. 74, 88, 90, 160

Webber, Thomas, on sources of the Brahmaputra, ii. 89

Whisky, a tonic for mules, ii. 260, 264

"Wilderness, the call of the," i. 1

Wolves, persistency of, i. 143, 168, 178, 198

Women, descriptions of Shigatse, i. 380;

uniform dirtiness of, 353, 380

Wool-market in Tugu-gompa, ii. 130

Wrangel, Count, Swedish Minister in London, passport requested from, i.

25, 299

Yaks, as beasts of burden, i. 75, 183, 198; ii. 64, 323, 329;

abundance of wild, i. 173;

Rehim Ali's adventure with a, 176

Yalloa-champa, holy apartment in Tashi-lunpo, i. 332

Yamba, lieutenant to chief of Tarok-shung, ii. 390

Yamchuk, village of, ii. 80

Yamchuk-pu valley, ii. 80

Yanggo-gompa monastery, ii. 129, 132

_Yapkak_, plant used as forage and fuel, i. 83, 91

Yere-tsangpo, river, i. 281

Yeshil-kul, lake, view of, i. 119;

antelope-traps at, 119;

intense saltness of, 120;

soundings on, 120;

choice between shipwreck and wolves, 122;

storm on, 124;

a freezing night, 125;

Deasy's depot discovered by Rawling, 129;

previous travellers' visits, 130

Ye-shung valley, camp in, i. 281, 409;

monasteries in, 411

Yildan, hunters from, ii. 275

Yimba Tashi, abbot of Linga-gompa, i. 431

Younghusband, Sir Francis, welcomes author to Simla, i. 6;

expedition to Lhasa referred to, 11;

parting with, 20;

letter as to passport from, 26;

recommends Muhamed Isa to author, 30, 46

Yulgunluk, ii. 235

Yumba-matsen, ii. 215

_Yungchen_, order of priesthood, i. 351

Zambul, _numberdar_ of Pobrang, i. 73, 87

Zoji-la pass, difficulties of caravan in the, i. 38

Zugmayer, Austrian naturalist, i. 130

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