IN THE ROBBERS' PARADISE
In former times the glacier tongues of Lunpo-gangri ran down into the
valley, and traces of them were very conspicuous as we descended to
lower country on April 16. The valley is quite full of old moraines,
consisting exclusively of granite, and some of them are superficially
concealed under fine matter and moss. We passed the large yak caravan
again, which was encamping after a very short march. Evidently the men
intended to stay over the next day, for the loads were taken off the
yaks and piled up. When they mean to set out again the next day they
leave the loads on the yaks, for they think it too much trouble to load
and unload 350 yaks for a single night. They might stay for us as long
as they liked; we should get in advance and pass by Saka-dzong before we
were denounced. But no, it would be wiser to avoid Saka-dzong
altogether; not to escape the sight of Muhamed Isa's grave, but not to
needlessly expose ourselves to suspicion. It was perfectly evident that
the authorities would wonder why a small party of Ladakis went along
byways instead of following the great _tasam_, and they would hold an
inquiry over us.
[Illustration: 322. WRESTLING. 323. TWO GUIDES. 324. BOY WITH HAT. 325.
SHEPHERD BOY.
(INHABITANTS OF THE PROVINCE OF BONGBA.)
Sketches by the Author.]
After the moraines came to an end we traversed a more open expansion of
the valley, with luxuriant grass and millions of detestable mouse-holes.
We were right glad when Takkar pinched the necks of one or two of these
obnoxious rodents. Tubges supplied me with partridges, and one of our
goats yielded me a drop of milk. From camp 383 Lunpo-gangri's summits
are seen foreshortened, and one of them is as small as an umbrella.
Several peaks are seen to the east-south-east, the continuation of the
range, and it is not difficult to infer that Chomo-uchong, the isolated
mountain beside the _tasam_, lies in the eastern prolongation of
Lunpo-gangri. I took bearings of the higher summits in the neighbourhood
from every camp, and shall hereafter make known the results.
The other men make the "Snorer's" life miserable. At eight o'clock he
crawls into his lair beside the sheep, and immediately begins his
wood-sawing. Some one yells at him, and he wakes up and makes some witty
remark, which makes the men laugh, and he never loses his temper. In two
minutes he is asleep again and sawing as hard as ever, and is roused by
another shout. Only when the others have fallen asleep is he left in
peace, and can saw as hard as he likes.
Little Puppy behaves splendidly, is lively, playful, and affectionate.
At night he sleeps on the rugs at my feet and helps Takkar to keep
watch. They are my companions, and it will be hard to part from them.
April 17. 0.7°. How long this winter has been! Now Lobsang has come to
the conclusion that the yak drivers will not denounce us, for fear lest
they should be called to account for not spying upon us better. We
continue our way down the valley. How delightful only to go for some
days to lower country. In some places we see summer camping-grounds; now
the country is desolate and deserted.
The river carries down about 70 cubic feet of clear water per second; it
has open water only in the middle, and elsewhere is covered with margins
of ice 2 feet thick, and icicles hang from their edges. On the banks,
field-mice dart about between their holes. The valley contracts and the
river often skirts steep cliffs of schist. Most of the tributaries, and
the largest of them, come from the chain which is the immediate
continuation of Nien-chen-tang-la. The ice becomes thicker the more the
valley contracts and the longer it is in shadow. We often cross it from
one bank to the other, where it forms a bridge. Stags' horns are set up
on a _mani_ heap; where do they come from? This valley runs between the
two ranges like the Buptsang-tsangpo. On this day we never see a man or
a tent.
In the evening a night owl again sat screeching above the camp, and the
Ladakis were convinced that it meant to warn us against robbers. If
these knew that a European with European weapons was in the caravan they
would not attack it; but we were only Ladakis, and the Tibetans despise
Ladakis and look upon them as cowards.
On the 18th we travelled southwards to the place (15,407 feet) where our
valley enters the Rukyok valley, running down from the west-north-west,
at the bottom of which some of the Lunpo-gangri summits were again
visible. Still no men were to be seen, only numerous summer
camping-places. Two horsemen rode past our camp on the other, right,
side of the valley. What did they want? Were they spies? We had every
reason to suspect a spy in every human being. No; they were kiang
hunters from Gertse, who had left their home and were seeking new
dwellings in another province, because of some unpleasantness with the
Gertse Pun, the potentate whom we were carefully making away from. They
informed us that we were a day's journey from Pasa-guk, where I had
encamped the year before, and three short marches from Saka-dzong. It
was hazardous to pass so near a governor's residence. Abdul Kerim bought
one of the riders' horses for 100 rupees.
This day I put on for the first time a new Ladaki costume. The other was
too warm, and, being red, was conspicuous among the others. The new coat
was made of worn, tattered sackcloth, and was stained with ashes and
soot. In this I looked just like the other men. Now I painted my face
regularly every day, and he must be a very smart fellow who could find
out that I was not a genuine Ladaki. We had hitherto got on remarkably
well, and had only a day's journey to a place where I had been the year
before. But the nervous tension increased more and more, and I wondered
every morning what surprises the new day had in store for us.
[Illustration: 326. SONAM NGURBU, CHIEF OF THE CHOKCHU PROVINCE. 327.
DORCHE TSUEN, GOVERNOR OF THE SAKA PROVINCE. 328. MAN WITH A SINGULAR
CAP, IN SONAM NGURBU'S ESCORT. 329. TAGLA TSERING, THE CHIEF WHO REFUSED
TO LET ME GO TO THE DANGRA-YUM-TSO.
Sketches by the Author.]
April 19. As we were starting, two men passed on foot, driving before
them 200 sheep laden with salt. Our way was the same as theirs and we
had to pass them. While I drove our own sheep down the road, Abdul Kerim
stopped and talked with the men, to draw off their attention; but we
could see that they were interested in our strange party, and looked
closely at us. I limped, thinking that the Tibetans had never seen a
lame European, if they had seen any European at all. But the people had
seen me in Pasa-guk and Saka-dzong the year before, and then I did not
halt. I had come off well from our troublesome neighbours and also past
the large yak caravan, which a couple of days ago had turned off another
way but had now come into ours again. We met a large sheep caravan with
a mounted party; a woman was said to be the wife of the Gova of Rukyok.
The people we had just met were not so dangerous as those that followed.
We left the Rukyok river farther and farther to the right, and directly
to the south appeared quite close the lofty summit which rises above
Pasa-guk. We had left the salt-laden sheep and the yaks behind us, and
we came at length to the bank of our old friend the Chaktak-tsangpo,
which was considerably smaller than at the end of May and beginning of
June the year before. Here we left the high-road to the south, and
marched northwards along the Chaktak-tsangpo's right, or western bank,
where we soon encamped on a meadow (15,203 feet).
When Abdul Kerim came back he was very solemn. He had had great
difficulty in answering questions why we followed a byway along the
Chaktak-tsangpo instead of taking the highway to Saka-dzong as all other
travellers did. He had replied that we were sent to find out how much
sheep's wool would be for sale in the country next summer. Then the men
of the salt caravan had said: "You cannot be afraid of robbers; they
frequent the mountains up here. Are you well armed?"
"Yes, we have two guns and some revolvers."
"You will want them. We see that you are peaceful people, so we warn
you. Six days ago a robber band, eighteen men strong, each with his
horse and gun, attacked a tent village here in the neighbourhood. They
pillaged 3 tents, took 400 sheep and about 200 yaks, and made off by
the road you intend to follow. Men were collected and sent after them,
but two were killed and the others ran away. No one knows where the band
is now. If you value your lives, keep a sharp watch at night. If they
attack you, let them plunder you; you are only thirteen, and cannot
defend yourselves."
This was why Abdul Kerim looked so anxious, and it was not to be
wondered at. Now we also ran the risk of a night attack, as if it were
not trying enough to travel in disguise by byways through the forbidden
land. As long as there was daylight the animals were allowed to wander
about and graze, but at dusk they were driven up near to the tents. In
the evening the men could talk of nothing but robbers. Lobsang, who was
a Tibetan himself, took the matter quietly. He said that there were
organized bands of as many as a hundred men with a chief at their head,
who ordered where raids should be made. But at this season of the year
they sat round their fires and tried to look innocent. In his opinion
the air must be warmer before they would move. If a robber was caught in
the neighbourhood of Gartok, his head and one arm must be sent as a
proof to Lhasa, he added. In the principal towns punishment is very
severe. For theft an eye is taken out and a hand cut off. A Gova or
other magistrate who catches a robber receives a reward or promotion,
but one who neglects his duty is punished. We heard that the district
near Geddo by the upper Raga-tsangpo is notorious as a regular nest of
robbers, and is visited by professional freebooters from Nakchu.
In the twilight the Mohammedans among my Ladakis sang the same melodious
hymn I had first heard at Kizil-unkur. "Allahu ekber" echoed among the
rocky cliffs; "and it is very effective in protecting true believers
against the wiles of the heathen." They had all at once become deeply
religious again in the robbers' paradise. "Allahu ekber," God is great.
The night passed peacefully, and early the next morning it was reported
that five horsemen were approaching our tents from the north. The
field-glass reduced them to two men, a woman, and some yaks. They made a
circuit as though they were afraid of us, but Abdul Kerim hailed them
to get information about the road. Then we marched on directly eastwards
along the northern bank of the Chaktak-tsangpo. The ascent was very
gradual, the valley fairly broad and with abundant pasture. No tent was
seen, but summer camps were numerous. A cairn marks the place where the
Chaktak-tsangpo, coming from the north, 10° W., unites with its
tributary the Gebuk-chu from the east. To the north-north-east rise two
snowy peaks of medium height with small glaciers. It was evident that
the Chaktak-tsangpo flows from the country to the north of them, for the
deeply excavated transverse valley of the river could be clearly traced.
The main river may carry down about 250 cubic feet in a second, and the
affluent about 70. In this district the river is called Kamchung-chu;
the name Chaktak-tsangpo (Charta-tsangpo, as it is incorrectly called by
Nain Sing) is not applied to it above Pasa-guk. We encamped in the angle
between the two rivers near a meadow where three horses were feeding.
Their owners, who were bivouacking behind a projection near at hand,
were from Rukyok and had lost many of their sheep in winter from
disease, and had been to a warm spring to dip and save the remainder. We
were here about due north of Saka-dzong and about two days' journey from
it. But between us and the Governor's residence rose a ridge which is a
link in the chain of Lunpo-gangri. In the evening and at night our
watchmen fired, as usual, some revolver shots, to inform any chance
robbers that we were on our guard.
April 21. As the tents were being taken down, our neighbours went by
with 200 sheep. I turned my back to them and busied myself with loading
a mule. Then I travelled with the sheep, for there were several more
tents farther up, and I could not ride till we came to an uninhabited
part of the valley. Several side valleys opened on the left, and at
their ends could sometimes be seen a part of the main crest. We know
absolutely nothing of the country to the north of it, but that it cannot
be the watershed between the plateau and the sea is evident, and was
shown by the Kamchung transverse valley.
After crossing the river twice over bridges of porous ice we encamped
near a sheepfold where dry dung was plentiful. The last nomads had told
us that next day we should come to a large tent, the property of an
influential old man named Kamba Tsenam, who owned 1000 yaks and 5000
sheep. He would evidently be our next difficulty, and if we slipped past
him the country would be open to us as far as Raga-tasam. We are
satisfied when, as on this day, we have again gained nearly 9 miles
without being interfered with; but how shall we fare to-morrow?--this is
the standing question we ask ourselves every evening. It is certainly an
advantage to travel along out-of-the-way paths where we escape notice,
but if any sharp gova or governor hears us spoken of, he cannot help
being suspicious of our strange proceedings, and institute a close
inquiry. Now the salt caravan which we passed has already arrived at
Saka-dzong; we are, indeed, to the east of that place, but we travel so
slowly that we can never escape pursuit. Our excitement grows daily. I
am tired and weary of this self-imposed confinement, and long for it to
come to an end. What shall we do then? That I know not. We have
penetrated so far that a crisis must come. I have managed to travel
through Bongba, but my plans for the immediate future are very
indefinite and depend on circumstances. We will get on as far as we can.
April 22 was a day when we knew that the definite crisis was coming very
much nearer. Abdul Kerim, Kunchuk, and Gaffar set out first to pay a
visit to Kamba Tsenam and keep his attention riveted on the sale of food
and horses. We followed after, and crossed the river twice on cracking
bridges of ice, kept along the northern bank, and passed a side valley,
at the mouth of which stood three tents, where our men were in the midst
of a group of Tibetans who were showing their horses. Gulam had warned
me in time, so I dismounted and went and looked after our last mules. As
soon as we were concealed by a bank terrace I could ride again. The
pleasure did not last long, for at the next side valley on the north I
had to dismount again before another tent, where a pack of savage dogs
were encountered by Takkar and Little Puppy, who, save the mark, would
help to defend us, but received a nip in the neck and had to be rescued.
Here we lost Kutus and Tubges, who remained at the tent, while our
diminished party continued on its way eastwards.
At a spur on the northern side of the valley a couple of elegant _mani_
heaps were erected, and by one of them a streamer pole was set up. It
had snowed thickly ever since eight o'clock, but the valley was so
narrow that we could not pass all the tents unseen. Just at the
projecting point a large valley ran in from the north: we only guessed
at it, for everything was hidden in the snowstorm. Gulam went a little
way ahead and gave me the sign to dismount. Immediately in front of the
point stood four tents and a small stone cabin, where a man stood
watching us, and also a chief's tent of such huge dimensions that I
never saw its like; it was as large as a house. Here we left Lobsang and
Abdul Rasak, and went on eastwards with a much diminished party. The
chief volume of the Gebuk-chu comes from the northern valley; in our
valley, which we knew led to the Gebuk-la, only a brook was left. We set
up our tents on the terrace at the mouth of a northern side valley. All
the country was white, and not a shadow could be seen of the
surroundings.
Our three tents stood as usual close together, mine with its opening up
the valley, that is, eastwards. After a while the men left behind came
up and gave their reports in turn. They had bought provisions for two
days, and had learned that the district was called Gebuk-yung. The next
day we should go over the Gebuk-la and encamp at the foot of the
Kinchen-la, from the top of which we should see Raga-tasam the following
day. Of course it was risky for three parties of our men to visit three
tents near together, for the Tibetans always asked about the routes we
had followed and our plans, and our men might in their haste give
discordant answers. In the large tent Lobsang had been cross-examined,
and had answered that we came from the Gertse Pun, who had advised us to
take this byroad because we should reach Raga-tasam two days sooner
than if we went through Saka-dzong. "Quite true," the Tibetans answered,
but also warned us against robbers, for thirteen Ladakis would be but a
mouthful for an ordinary robber band, and the country was very unsafe.
"It is well for you that you have good weapons," they said.
Lastly, Abdul Kerim turned up with his purchases. He had learned that
all the tents we had seen in the day belonged to Kamba Tsenam, who lived
himself in the largest, but he happened to be in Saka-dzong, where an
assembly had been convened in anticipation of an impending visit from a
high Chinese official, and the question what present should be made to
him had to be decided. Kamba Tsenam owned thirty-five horses, which were
grazing beyond Gebuk-la, and if the rich nomad returned in the evening
we should certainly be able to buy some from him.
"You say," declared an elderly man in Kamba Tsenam's service, "that you
are a _tsongpun_ (merchant) from Ladak. Why then do you travel by this
dangerous side route? Here you can drive no trade. How have you found
the way? Why have you travelled in winter? Why do you ask the names of
the valleys?"
"I have to write down all the names," he answered, "that we may find the
way again in summer, for I am commissioned to make large purchases of
wool."
"That is well, you shall have several hundred bales of sheep's wool from
us. I will give you a guide in the morning; you will pay him a rupee for
two days. Without him you cannot find your way over the Gebuk-la,
especially when the ground is covered with snow."
[Illustration: 330. TRAVELLING LADAKI MERCHANT IN WEST TIBET. 331. OANG
GYE, SON OF THE GOVERNOR OF SAKA. 332. PANCHOR, THE YAK-SLAYER, MY GUIDE
ON THE JOURNEY TO THE TERI-NAM-TSO. 333. WOMAN OF YUMBA-MATSEN.
Sketches by the Author.]
Abdul Kerim had thanked him for his kindness and then had come to look
for us. We were sitting and deliberating when two riders armed with guns
came up to our tents. They were close upon us when they appeared out of
the snowstorm. We just managed to close my tent and fasten up Takkar
before the entrance. The elder man was Abdul Kerim's friend from the
large tent, the other the youth who was offered to us as a guide. They
tied up their horses and went nonchalantly into Abdul Kerim's tent. Here
they sat and gossiped for an hour, and offered a large handsome white
horse for sale at the price of 127 rupees. Abdul Kerim bought it,
whereupon they asked how much money he had with him, and whether he was
not afraid of being attacked. Afterwards they went about the tents and
looked around, and I drew a breath of relief when they at last vanished
in the snow with the other horse.
Now we considered the situation. To refuse the guide would seem
extremely suspicious, for the snow already lay a foot deep, and the
path--all we had to depend on--was covered up. But to have a stranger, a
spy, in the caravan for two days and a night was still more dangerous.
When Kutus and Sedik went back a little later to the large tent to fetch
a bowl of sour milk, they were told to say that our _tsongpun_ did not
want a guide, for we should remain quiet a day, either here or at the
next camp. "Your _tsongpun_ speaks with two tongues, he does not know
what he wants," the men answered.
We left this dangerous place on April 23 before the sun was up, and I
went first with the sheep in case our neighbours paid a morning visit.
The weather cleared and the sun came out, and then the snow quickly
evaporated. Farther up all the valley floor was covered with a
continuous sheet of ice. In front of us was seen the pass Gebuk-la. Here
a little old man was following ten mares. He pretended not to see us,
but he was soon overtaken by Abdul Kerim and Kunchuk, who kept him
company most of the day. With Lobsang I rested half an hour on the pass,
at a height of 16,978 feet. To the east and south-east of us lay an
entanglement of mountains and valleys, and without the horse-tender we
had so fortunately found it would have been quite impossible to find our
way over the succession of small saddles which followed. To the
south-south-east the snowy massive of Chomo-uchong rose in radiant
sunshine; to the north was a huge crest, which I, like Ryder, took for
the main range of the Trans-Himalaya and the watershed, but this turned
out afterwards to be a mistake.
The horse-driver took us up a secondary saddle, at the eastern foot of
which runs a deeply eroded valley, which, coming from the north, 10° E.,
is the upper section of the valley we followed last year, and which
runs down to Basang, where I saw Muhamed Isa for the last time among the
number of the living. Here was the driver's tent, and to escape his
company during the night we continued our march after the stranger had
given us instructions about the way. Our camp 390 was situated in the
mouth of a small valley on the ascent to the Kinchen-la, where we were
overwhelmed in a terribly dense and violent snowstorm.
The guide, who had so fortunately appeared at the right moment, had said
in the presence of our men that he was Kamba Tsenam's brother and a
great yak-slayer. The year before he had seen in Saka-dzong a European
whose caravan leader, a big strong fellow, had inspired respect wherever
he showed himself. But he had died suddenly in Saka, and his comrades
had digged a long hole in the ground where they had laid him. He thought
it strange that Ladakis, who were of the same faith as the Tibetans,
would travel with and serve the hated Europeans.
For the future we determined to observe yet greater caution. Two or
three Ladakis should always wear dark eye-glasses, so that mine might
not seem so peculiar. As soon as we could buy woollen material all the
men should have new clothes, so that I in my rags would seem the poorest
and meanest of the party.