ADVENTURES ON LANGAK-TSO
I have not interrupted the description of my life on the revered lake
with notices of our political troubles. Suffice it to say that we
succeeded in staying there a whole month. Mounted and other messengers
often came to make complaints, and then my men simply replied: "The
Sahib is out on the lake, catch him if you can; he is a friend of the
lake god, and can stay as long as he likes among the branches of the
holy tree." And when I came back again they had gone off. In consequence
of the boat trips they could not control my movements, but when we
encamped by Chiu-gompa they became more energetic. During my absence
came messenger after messenger with orders that I must at once betake
myself to Parka and continue my journey thence to Ladak. On August 23 I
sent Robert and Rabsang to Parka to make terms with the authorities, but
they would not under any circumstances allow me to visit Langak-tso, my
next stage. If I liked to stay a month or a year at Chiu-gompa it was
nothing to them, for the monastery was not in their district, but the
western lake was in their jurisdiction. They advised that I should come
as soon as possible to Parka for my own sake, and would send in the
morning fifteen yaks to carry my luggage.
[Illustration: 263. TEMPLE VESSELS IN CHIU-GOMPA.]
[Illustration: 264. TWO CHILDREN IN SHIGATSE.
Sketches by the Author.]
But I wished to see Langak-tso at any cost. So when the fifteen yaks
arrived next morning, I quickly made up my mind to send Tsering,
Rabsang, and four men with the baggage to Parka, while Robert and the
other six men would go with me to Langak-tso. Our own six horses and
the last mule from Poonch could easily carry the boat and our bit of
luggage. The yaks were laden and my men disappeared behind the hills. My
own small caravan had orders to camp on the shore of Langak-tso where
the old channel enters. I went with Robert and two men on foot and
executed a series of exact levellings over the isthmus separating the
two lakes. At the same time I drew a map of the course of the channel.
The measuring tape was nailed fast to an oar which Robert carried; the
theodolite I carried myself. The distance between the pole and the
instrument amounted to 55 yards, and was measured with tapes by our two
assistants. The pole was placed on an iron dish that it might not sink
into the soft ground.
The lakes were visited in 1812 by Moorcroft, who found no connecting
channel. In October 1846 Henry Strachey found there an arm of the lake
100 feet broad and 3 feet deep. Landor declared that any connection was
inconceivable, for, according to him, the isthmus was 300 feet high at
its lowest part. Ryder found in the late autumn of 1904 no water running
out of Manasarowar, but he heard from the natives that a little water
passed through the channel during the rainy season. Sherring also saw no
running water, but he thought it probable that the lake overflowed after
rainy summers. As for me, I followed the bed of the channel from one
lake to the other and found that in the year 1907 no water flowed from
the eastern into the western lake, and in 1908 the condition was the
same, though both my visits occurred in the rainy season. There must be
very heavy falls of rain before Manasarowar can overflow, for the
highest point of the channel bed lies more than 6½ feet above the level
of the eastern lake.
The circumstance that different travellers in different years have given
different accounts is, however, very easily explained. All depends on
the precipitation: if it is abundant, the surface of Manasarowar rises;
if it is very abundant its water drains off to the Langak-tso
(Rakas-tal). If the summer is dry, as in the year 1907, the Langak-tso
receives no water through the channel, but certainly by subterranean
passages. On the whole, both these lakes are falling like the other
lakes of Tibet, and the time is approaching when the subterranean outlet
will be cut off and both lakes will be salt.
As we deliberately measured the channel and came to its highest point
from which its bed dips towards the west, I threw a farewell glance at
Tso-mavang, and experienced a feeling of bereavement at the thought that
I must now leave its shores, and in all probability for ever. For I had
known this gem of lakes in the light of the morning red and in the
purple of sunset, in storms, in howling hurricanes when the waves rose
mountain high, in fresh southerly breezes when the waves sparkled like
emeralds, in full sunshine when the lake was smooth as a mirror, in the
silver beams of the moon when the mountains stood out like white
spectres after the dull yellow light of evening was extinguished, and in
peaceful nights when the stars twinkled as clearly on the smooth surface
of the lake as above in the vault of heaven. I had passed a memorable
month of my life on this lake, and had made friends with the waves and
become intimately acquainted with its depths. To this day I can hear the
melodious splash of the raging surf, and still Tso-mavang lingers in my
memory like a fairy tale, a legend, a song.
We went on westwards along narrow creeks and pools of stagnant water,
but when the evening had become so dusky that I could no longer read the
figures on the measuring pole, we gave up work, marked the last fixed
point, and made for the camp, which we reached in complete darkness.
In the morning the work was continued. We had had a minimum of 22.6° in
the night, and a violent south-west storm rendered it difficult to read
the instruments. The hundred-and-fourth point was fixed at length at the
edge of the water of Langak-tso. I have no space here to analyse the
results. The channel runs west-north-west, and the line measured is
10,243 yards long, or twice as long as represented on the most recent
maps. The surface of Langak-tso lay 44 feet below that of Tso-mavang,
which agrees very well with the difference of height on Ryder's map,
namely 50 feet. There is no water beyond the ninety-fourth fixed point
in the bed, The Tibetans related a legend concerning the origin of the
channel. Two large fishes in Tso-mavang were deadly enemies and chased
each other. One was beaten, and in order to escape he darted right
through the isthmus, and the windings of the channel bed show the course
of the flying fish.
The morning of August 26 was dull, damp, and cold. Heavy clouds floated
over the earth, heralds of the monsoon rains, and Langak-tso looked
anything but inviting for a sail. But we had the whole day before us,
and any moment horsemen might come from Parka, take us by the neck and
lead us back, whether we liked it or not, to the path of duty.
Langak-tso has a very irregular outline. Its chief basin in the south is
begirt by rocks, in the north there is a smaller expansion, and between
the two runs a contracted channel. All we could venture to do was to row
over the small basin westwards and then to the south-east, to a place on
the eastern shore whither our camp could be moved. It could be done in a
few hours, so we took nothing but the mast and sail.
Tundup Sonam and Ishe were my boatmen, and we set out at half-past five
o'clock. We were at first in the lee of a promontory, but when we had
passed it the whole lake came down upon us with rolling, foaming
billows, showers of spray, and threatening surge. The waves were crowded
together in the narrows to leeward, and assumed curious irregular forms.
Among them tossed masses of water-weed; the water was bright green and
as clear and sweet as that of Tso-mavang. We are a little beyond the
promontory; would it not be better to turn back? No; never turn back,
never give in; still forwards! We were wet, but we kept our equilibrium
and parried the cunning assaults of the rolling waves. "Row hard and we
shall soon get into the shelter of the great point on the western
shore." I even managed to take soundings, and found that the greatest
depth was 54½ feet; the lake bottom was almost level. We had fought
with the waves for four hours before we landed on the north side of the
promontory, where we were sheltered from the wind.
Here we draw the boat to land and reconnoitre. The cape runs
north-eastwards, and is covered with driftsand which is in constant
motion. On the shore plain to the south-west yellow sandspouts move
about, whirling like corkscrews in the direction of the wind, and our
promontory receives its share of this load of sand. On the north the
dune is very steep; from time to time fresh sand falls down the slope
and slips into the lake, where the waves sweep it away. From the sharp
ridge of the dune the driftsand is blown like a dense plume to the lake,
and the water is tinged with yellow for quite 200 yards in the direction
of the wind by myriads of grains of sand, which fall to the bottom and
build up a foundation under water on which the promontory can extend out
into the lake. The wind has been strong, and now we have a storm.
Patience! We cannot go back. The driftsand now floats so thickly over
the lake that the eastern and northern shores are invisible; we might be
sitting on a dune in the heart of the Takla-makan desert.
We slipped down to the sheltered side of the dune, but here, out of the
wind, it was still worse. We were enveloped in clouds of sand which
penetrated everywhere, into our eyes, ears, and noses, and irritated the
skin where it came into contact with the body. The moaning howl of the
storm was heard above and around us. My oarsmen slept or strolled about,
but their footprints were at once obliterated by the wind. I played with
the sand like a child--let it roll down the lee-side, built a small
peninsula, which was immediately destroyed by the waves, and a harbour
mole, which the sea beat over and broke up--and watched how new layers
and clumps of dead seaweed appeared on the sand slope, and how the dry
sand formed falls and cascades as it rolled down. But the storm did not
abate.
[Illustration: 265. KAILAS BEHIND NYANDI-GOMPA.]
[Illustration: 266. MY PACK-SHEEP.]
We lay waiting there for four hours. On the eastern shore our men had
moved the camp a little farther south. We saw the tents quite plainly.
Should we venture to creep along the shore southwards so as to reach
a point opposite the camp? Out beyond the promontory the dark-green lake
ran uncomfortably high, but we were a match for the waves--the men had
only to put their weight on to the oars. So we crept along the shore,
where we got some shelter, but we had to be careful that we were not
carried out into the heavy seas. After rowing round two points we landed
on the lee-side of a third, where the boat was drawn ashore again. Heavy
seas with thundering, towering waves dashed against the southern side of
the point, so that we could go no farther, for no pilot would encounter
such billows in a canvas boat. I stood on the top of the promontory and
enjoyed the fine spectacle. Robert's tent shone brightly in the setting
sun. We saw the men, the horses grazing on the bank, and the smoke of
the camp-fire beaten down by the storm. The crossing would barely take
an hour, but between us and them yawned the dark-green abyss of
tyrannical, all-conquering waves.
The sun sets and we still sit and wait, confused by the rush of the
spirits of the air and water. This time they have played us a pretty
trick, and we have been caught. To the north rises Kang-rinpoche, lofty
and bright as a royal crown. Its summit is like a _chhorten_ on the
grave of a Grand Lama. Snow and ice with vertical and slightly inclined
fissures and ledges form a network like the white web of a gigantic
spider on the black cliffs.
And the day, a long day of waiting, neared its inevitable close. Shadows
lengthened out over the foaming waves, the sun set, and the Pundi
mountain, our old friend of Tso-mavang, glowed like fire in the sunset.
Clouds of a deep blood-red colour, with edges of orange, and tinted
above with reddest gold, hovered over its summit. It was as though the
earth had opened and volcanic forces had burst forth. The hours passed
by, the glow died out, the outlines of Pundi became indistinct and were
at length swallowed up in the darkness. We were in the dark while the
camp-fire blazed on the eastern shore. Our hopes were now centred on the
night and the moon. The storm had raged thrice twenty-four hours, and it
must end some time; but it was just as strong. And as it was useless to
wait, and I could not appease my gnawing hunger with a piece of bread
and a cup of tea, I wrapped myself in the sail, burrowed into the sand,
and fell into a sound sleep.
The rain pelting down on the sail woke me twice, and about four o'clock
in the morning the cold thoroughly roused me. A dreary, grey, rainy
outlook. But Ishe proposed that we should try to get over, for the storm
had slightly abated in consequence of the rain. We first made sure that
the tackle was in good order, and then stepped into the boat and rowed
out along the sheltered side of the promontory. But scarcely had the
nose of the boat passed beyond the point when it received a shock that
made all its joints crack. "Row, row as hard as you can," I yelled
through the howling storm; "we shall get over before the boat is full.
It is better to be wet than suck our thumbs for twenty-four hours more."
To the south, 52° E., the tent canvas shone white in the morning grey.
We strayed far out of our course, but cut the waves cleanly, and steered
towards the surf. We just managed to get over. We were received on the
other side by our men, who helped us to draw the boat ashore and had
fire and breakfast ready for us.
Namgyal had returned from Parka and brought news that the Gova
threatened to drive away my men in order to force me to leave
Langak-tso. Bluff, however, has no effect on me. A more serious matter
was that Puppy had not been seen for forty-eight hours, and that Shukkur
Ali, who had gone the morning before to Chiu-gompa in search of her, had
not been heard of since. Puppy at length found her way into camp
herself, and then it was Shukkur Ali who was missing.
On the 28th the storm continued. We afterwards heard from Tibetans that
stormy weather frequently prevails on Langak-tso, and the lake is
agitated, when Tso-mavang is smooth and calm. Tundup Sonam concluded
that Tso-mavang was a pet of the gods, while demons and devils ruled
over Langak-tso. We had heard a tale in Gossul-gompa that the preceding
winter five Tibetans, armed with swords and guns, had crossed the ice
to reach Parka by a shorter way, but in the middle of the lake the ice
had given way, and all five were dragged down by the weight of their
weapons to the bottom.
I wished for fine weather that I might be able to cross over the lake to
the islands. As, however, we were obliged to give up all thoughts of a
voyage, I determined to pass round the lake and at any rate draw an
outline map of it. We commenced, then, with the eastern shore, which
makes a regular curve towards the east. The white mule from Poonch
carried the boat. Some Ovis Ammons were seen on the rocks, which Tundup
Sonam stalked unsuccessfully. Shukkur Ali turned up again as cool as a
cucumber, having searched in vain for Puppy, which was snoring in my
tent in most excellent condition.
August 29. We go to sleep amidst the roaring of the waves and the
howling of the storm, and awake again to the same uproar. It is always
in our ears as we ride along the shore. We might be at the foot of a
waterfall. Now we follow the south shore westwards. Here the cliffs are
almost everywhere precipitous, and the rocks are porphyry, granite, and
schist; the shore strip is extremely narrow and steep, and is divided
into sharply marked terraces. It descends right down to great depths,
and shallow, gradually sloping places are not to be found. A human skull
lay in a bay bobbing up and down in the waves, and not far off were
other parts of a skeleton. Was it one of the men who had been drowned in
the winter? At this discovery my men conceived a still greater aversion
to Langak-tso, which even took human life. I perceived that they were
wondering what further foolhardiness I might indulge in.
A sharp-pointed peninsula running north-westwards delayed us. On the bay
beyond a caravan was camping, and we were glad to meet Tibetans again
when all others had withdrawn from us; and they were glad to meet a
European who had been at the Luma-ring-tso, their home. But they could
not understand why we passed round all projections and went right round
all the bays, instead of following the direct road running a little
farther to the south. One of them held out his hands towards me with
the fingers spread out, and said that the south shore of the lake had as
many indentations. When I told him that I wished to draw a map of the
lake, he said that it was of no consequence what the shore was like, as
only egg-gatherers came there.
When we had passed two projecting points we encamped at the extremity of
the cape which lies in a line with the southernmost island. It was
stormy, but here we found shelter under a cliff with a streamer pole on
the top. Stone walls, rags, and eggshells were evidence of the visits of
men. On the east and west of the cape were open bays with heavy seas,
and to the north, 19° E., we saw the southern point of the island--a
dark precipitous rock, rising like a huge roll of bread from the waves.
We had already heard of this island, Lache-to, on which the wild-geese
lay their eggs in May, and are robbed of them by men from Parka who come
over the ice. I could not therefore omit to visit it. The island lay
quite near. We would return immediately, and Adul might begin to roast
the wild-goose which Tundup had shot on the march. We wanted no
provisions, but Robert advised Ishe to take a bag of _tsamba_ with him,
lest he should have to wait too long for his dinner.
[Illustration: 267. PART OF KAILAS.
Sketch by the Author.]
These two men took the oars when we put off. The shelter of the cape was
deceptive. Two minutes from the bank I tried to take a sounding, but the
line made a great curve before it reached the bottom, for the storm
drove the boat northwards. Then we fell upon another device: the boatmen
had only to hold their oars in the air and let the wind carry the boat
along. But a little farther out we could not sail so easily, for the
wave system of the eastern open part of the lake came into collision
with that from the west. Here the waves rose into hillocks and pyramids,
and had to be negotiated with the oars. We rapidly drew near to the
island, and its rocks became higher and looked threateningly dark and
dangerous. When we were close to the southern point I perceived that it
was impossible to land there. The bank of rubbish and blocks was very
steep, and we and the boat would have been dashed in pieces in the
foaming breakers. The situation was critical. Robert wished to land on
the lee-side of the northern point, but that would have been risky, for
the storm swept unchecked along the sides of the island, and if we did
not get under the land at the right moment we should be driven out into
the open lake at a distance of two days' voyage from the northern shore.
We rocked up and down on soft green crystal. I steered close to the
eastern bank, where the waves were just as high. Here we had no choice.
I turned the bow towards the land, and the men rowed for all they were
worth. A nasty billow threw us ashore. Robert jumped out, slipped, and
got a ducking. Ishe hurried up to help him. Three billows broke over me
before I got to land. We were all three drenched, but we were glad to
have firm ground under our feet, and to have reached the island safely
in spite of the treacherous storm which might have driven us past this
open roadstead.
Then Robert and I went round the island while Ishe collected fuel.
Though we could only walk slowly over the detritus, we took but
twenty-five minutes to go round the island and ascertain its form by
compass bearings. It is longish, runs from north to south, and consists
of a single rock falling on all sides steeply to the water. During our
walk the wind dried us. Then I drew a panorama of Gurla Mandatta, and
after that the spot of earth to which fate had led us prisoners was
subjected to a closer investigation. At the north-eastern foot of the
elevation is a rather flat pebbly plateau. Here the wild-geese breed in
spring, and here lay still several thousand eggs, in twos, threes, or
fours, in a nest of stones and sand.
That was a discovery. Ishe had a bag of _tsamba_, but that was all.
There was every probability that we should have to stay the night here,
and now we had a quite unexpected store of provisions to last for
months. And some time this persistent wind must cease. We played at
Robinson Crusoe, and found our situation very advantageous. But the
egg-collecting was the most interesting. The eggs were pretty and
appetizing as they lay half embedded in the sand, and I pictured to
myself the happy cackling that must go on in the spring when the goose
mothers sit with expectant hearts on the hard nests, and the sun floods
Gurla Mandatta with a sea of light.
We broke two. They were rotten. We tried others which lay in the shade
and deeper in the sand. They gave out a horrible stench when the shell
broke with a crack on a stone. But of about 200 eggs we broke, we found
eight which were edible, and we did not want more. We helped Ishe to
collect dry plants lying on the slopes, and at sunset we had a huge heap
which we had piled within a small ring fence. In the middle the fire was
lighted, and we sat leaning against the wall which sheltered us from the
wind. We were warm and comfortable, and our satisfaction reached its
height when Ishe's store of _tsamba_ was divided into three equal
portions, and was eaten out of a wooden bowl with the hand in place of a
spoon. The greatest inconvenience was that we had no other vessel but
Ishe's small wooden bowl, and therefore whenever one of us wanted a
drink he had to tramp down to the shore.
The storm still howled over the rock and through the holes and crannies
of the wall. Then the thought shot through my mind: "Is the boat moored
securely? If it should be carried away! Then we are lost. Ah, but it may
be cast ashore on the northern bank, and our men may fetch it and come
across to the island. No, it will be filled with water, and be sunk by
the weight of the zinc plates of the centre-boards. But then we can
mount in the morning to the southern point and make our people
understand by signs that we want provisions. We have drifted to the
island in eighteen minutes. They can make a raft with the tent poles and
stays, load it with provisions, and let it drift with the wind to the
island. And we may find more fresh eggs."
Such were the thoughts that Robert and I exchanged while Ishe was
feeling about in total darkness at the landing-place. "What if we have
to stay here till the lake freezes over, four months hence?" I said. But
at this moment we heard Ishe's steps in the sand, and he calmed us with
the assurance that both the boat and the oars were safe.
Then we talked together again and kept up the fire. The storm had
abated, but sudden gusts came down from all quarters. We inspected the
water, and found that we could make for the mainland without danger. But
first we took all the remaining fuel and piled it up into a blazing
bonfire, which shone like a huge beacon over the lake. If any Tibetan
saw it, he must have thought that an enchanted fire was burning on the
desolate island.
The moon was high when we put off and the lake was still rough. But soon
the black cape where our camp stood was seen on the southern shore
against the dim background of mountains. In the middle of the sound the
depth was 113 feet. We shouted with all our might, and were soon
answered by a fire on the point, to which our people had come down. And
the roasted wild-goose, which had waited so long for us, and a cup of
hot tea tasted delicious in the early hours of morn. And still more
delightful was it to creep into bed after our short visit to the goose
island, which raised its dark, mysterious, dolphin-like ridge in the
moonlight. Never again would my foot tread its peaceful strand.