ON THE ROOF OF THE GOSSUL MONASTERY
In the middle of the night I was awaked by a terrible row; a dog from
the monastery had crept under my men's half of the boat to see what it
could find, but chanced to fall into the hands of Shukkur Ali, and got a
good thrashing. The temperature fell to 37.4°. Rabsang came riding up at
sunrise. The men had feared that we must have perished in the waves. He
brought provisions and a packet of letters from Thakur Jai Chand, the
British commercial agent in Gartok, who was at the time in Gyanima,
where the fair was being held. He wrote that Colonel Dunlop Smith had
directed him on June 27 to try to obtain news of me. Guffaru had
performed his task satisfactorily, and all my baggage was safely
deposited in Gartok, and my voluminous correspondence had been forwarded
to Simla. From Mr. Sherring, who had made a journey to Manasarowar some
years previously, I received a very kind letter; he had also had the
kindness to send me his interesting book on western Tibet, while his
wife had added a whole packet of English and French newspapers,
literature the more acceptable that the extensive library presented to
me by O'Connor had long been read through and dispersed to the four
winds of heaven. It was a singular coincidence that where I had suffered
shipwreck I was so unexpectedly brought again into contact with the
outer world.
I was deeply moved by Rabsang's information that the monks in
Tugu-gompa, when they saw the storm burst over our frail boat, had burnt
incense before the images of the lake-god and implored him to deliver
us from the waves. They had done it of their own accord, and not at the
request of any one. They said it would be deplorable if we were lost;
they had a heart, and were not so unfeeling as might be supposed. Few
proofs of sympathy have touched me like this.
Accompanied by Rabsang, I ascended in the early morning the winding path
up to the monastery. At the turns and projections stand cubical
_chhortens_ and votive cairns, and here and there a streamer flutters on
a mast. A _samkang_, a hermit's dwelling, hangs over a cavern produced
by the fall of a huge mass from the slope of the pebble terrace eleven
years ago. I told the monks that they should not put too much confidence
in the ground on which their monastery stands. They reckon millions of
years for the soul's wanderings, but their earthly dwellings are not
built for eternity. They answered calmly that the monastery had already
stood for one hundred years, and that it would certainly stand as long
as they were living there; for in general the monks are changed every
three years, and they come here from the monastery Shibeling in Purang,
by which they are maintained. There are only three of them, but I saw
also four novices, seven, nine, ten, and eleven years old respectively,
running about as actively as mice, and waiting on the monks. Their
mother, a nun from Purang, also lives in the monastery. She had been
married before she "took the veil," and when her husband died she
dedicated herself and all her children to the Church. I afterwards
learned that one of the "boys" was a girl; they were so like one another
that I could not distinguish between them. At first they were shy and
timid, but after I had given them a few silver coins they were soon at
ease with me. They appeared small and stunted for their age, but the
abbot told me that they had mourned so much at the death of their father
that their growth was checked. Almost all the day they were bringing
water from the lake in clay jugs, which they carried in a basket
suspended by a strap round their forehead; they carry therefore with the
muscles of the head and neck, which are consequently so much developed
that they seem too large for the body. But they also receive instruction
and take their first uncertain steps in the domain of wisdom; the eldest
is said to have already acquired considerable knowledge.
I went into the temple and studied it thoroughly. I remained there
twelve hours, drew, took measurements, made all kinds of inquiries, and
took notes. Every part is handsome, interesting, and well-kept. The
_lhakang_ is like an old armoury, a museum of fine, rare articles, which
show great artistic skill, and have been designed, carved, modelled, and
painted with unwearied patience and real taste. The hall, supported by
eight pillars, has two red divans; a statue of Buddha in gilded bronze,
and a number of other idols; drums hanging in stands, lacquered tables
with the usual religious objects, and a large quantity of votive bowls
in the brightest brass and of uncommon, tasteful forms. On both sides of
the pillars hang _tankas_ in four rows, which are as long as standards
and triumphal banners, and are so arranged that they do not prevent the
light from playing on the faces of the gods. In a corner surely waves a
Swedish flag? Ah, it is only a blue and yellow _tanka_, but it reminds
me of the golden period of our fame and victories.
The _lhakang_ of Gossul is not built on the usual plan; the skylight is
wanting, and instead there are three windows in the façade facing the
lake. But the gods do not see the lake, for the windows are pasted over
with paper on a trellis-work of laths. Why is the beautiful view
concealed and the daylight excluded? To enhance the mystical gloom
within and excite the greater wonder and reverence in the minds of the
pilgrims who come in half-blinded from the daylight, and that they may
not see that the gold is only gilded brass, and that the marks of the
brush and the chisel may not be too profanely evident. The poorer a
monastery, the darker are its temple halls; the darkness hides their
poverty and helps the monks to impose on the faithful.
[Illustration: 256. YANGGO-GOMPA.]
[Illustration: 257. INTERIOR OF THE TEMPLE, TUGU.
Sketches by the Author.]
Somchung is the name of a small compartment no larger than a cabin. On
its divan are cushions and pieces of cloth arranged in circles to
form two nests, in which two monks sit during the night service. On the
altar table before Sakya-muni's image stand forty bowls filled with
water, and on another table some peacock's feathers in a silver vase,
with which the gods are sprinkled with holy water to the cry "Om a hum."
In former times robbers and footpads harboured here, and had their
hiding-places in the caves below the monastery. From these they fell
upon the pilgrims and killed many of them. Then the god of Tso-mavang
appeared to Jimpa Ngurbu, a noble lama, and ordered him to build the
monastery, that it might be a sure stronghold for the protection of
pilgrims, and for the honour of the gods. Even now the country is not
safe. Last year two scoundrels, who had plundered the nomads, were taken
and executed; and we ourselves saw ten Gurkhas, armed with guns, who
rode past us in search of a robber band which had stolen their horses
and sheep.
The monks said that the lake usually freezes in January; in stormy
weather the ice breaks up, but when the weather is calm and the frost is
sharp, the whole lake freezes over in a single day, and breaks up again
in a single day when it is stormy. Unfortunately the statements made
about the level of the water and the discharge are contradictory and
untrustworthy. A lama, thirty-five years of age, now staying here, had
lived on Tso-mavang as a child. He said that he well remembered the time
when the water flowed out of the lake to Rakas-tal in such quantities
that a horseman could not cross the channel, which is called Ganga,
without danger. But now this channel had ceased to carry water for nine
years. I was shown where the shore line ran last autumn, five fathoms
farther inland, so that the lake must then have been 22½ inches higher.
I was also shown a yellow block of stone, to which the water was said to
have reached twelve years ago, and this point lay 10-1/3 feet above the
present level of the lake. Such a rate of fall is improbable, though
this statement accorded fairly well with the information I had received
at Tugu-gompa. The threshold of the one cave lay now 22.57 feet, and
that of the other 120.4 feet from the shore, 18.86 feet above the
water. I was told that when the monastery was built, one hundred years
ago, the lake had reached both these caves, and that only a small path
was left along the strand by which the caves could be approached.
However, the dates of the Tibetans are exceedingly uncertain, and to
arrive at safe conclusions we must resort to the statements of European
travellers. I will make a few remarks on them later. When I asked one of
the monks what became of all the water poured into Tso-mavang by all the
rivers and brooks, he replied:
"However much it rains, and though all the tributaries are full to
overflowing, no change is noticeable in the lake, for as much water is
evaporated as flows in. In our holy books it is written that if all the
tributaries failed, the lake would not sink and disappear, for it is
eternal and is the abode of high gods. But now we see with our own eyes
that it is always falling, and we do not know what this means."
The following records may be useful to future explorers: the lower edge
of the massive threshold of the main gateway in the façade of
Gossul-gompa lay on August 8, 1907, exactly 122.7 feet above the surface
of the lake, as I ascertained by the help of a reflecting level.
[Illustration: 258. A DREAMER. LAMA IN YANGGO-GOMPA ON MANASAROWAR.
Drawn by T. Macfarlane from a Sketch by the Author.]
We ascended to the roof of Gossul-gompa. It is flat, as usual, with a
chimney, parapet, and streamers. No language on earth contains words
forcible enough to describe the view from it over the lake. It was,
indeed, much the same as we had seen from various points on the shore,
but the light and shade was so enchanting and the colouring so wonderful
that I was amazed, and felt my heart beat more strongly than usual as I
stepped out of the dark temple halls on to the open platform. Tundup
Sonam said in his simple way that the lake with its encircling mountains
seemed like the sky with its light clouds. I, too, was the victim of an
illusion which almost made me catch at the parapet for support. I
wondered whether it was a fit of giddiness. I took, to wit, the border
of mountains on the eastern shore for a belt of light clouds, and the
surface of the sea for part of the sky. The day was perfectly calm and
the lake like a mirror, in which the sky was reflected; both looked
exactly the same, and were of the same colour, and the mountains, which
in consequence of the distance were all blended into a dark shadow, were
like a girdle of clouds. The air was not clear, everything was of a dull
subdued tone, there was no colour to speak of, but all was grey--sky,
land, and water, with a tinge of blue, a fairy scene of glass, with
decorations of white gauze seen through a thin blue veil of incense
rising from the altar of the mighty god of the lake.
What has become of the earth, if all is sky and clouds? We are not
totally bewitched, for we are standing on the roof of the monastery
leaning against the parapet. A dream-picture in the most ethereal
transitory tones floats before us. We seem to stand on a promontory
jutting out into endless space, which yawns around us and in front. And
where is now the holy lake, which yesterday nearly robbed us of life,
and on which the storm was so furious that I still seem to feel the
ground quaking under my feet? Has the Gossul monastery been changed by
some whim of the gods into an air-ship which is bearing us away to
another planet? Its streamers hang motionless on their poles, and
nothing can be seen of the mountains, country, and ground.
"Oh yes, if you lean a little over the parapet," says a monk, smiling.
True! Then the illusion vanishes, to my great chagrin. I should have
liked to remain a while under its enchantment. Just below us runs the
narrow margin on the bank, with its black dam of clay and water-weeds,
and its elongated lagoons. Through the crystal-clear water we see the
yellowish-grey mud on the lake bottom, the dark fringe of weeds, and the
dark depths beyond. It is like a huge aquarium covered with plate-glass.
Two flocks of geese are swimming on the water, producing diverging
ripples. All is so indescribably quiet; so ethereal, transparent, and
transitory, so subtile and sensitive, that I scarcely dare breathe.
Never has a church service, a wedding march, a hymn of victory, or a
funeral made a more powerful impression on me.
Did fate compel me to pass my life in a monastery in Tibet, I would
without hesitation choose Gossul-gompa. There I would observe the
fluctuations of the lake and the annual curves of the temperature. I
would sit up there like a watchman, gaze over the lake, and watch how
its aspect changed every hour during the twelve months of the year. I
would listen to the howling of the autumn storms, and would notice on
calm November days how the belt of ice along the shore broadened from
day to day, if only to melt again in the course of a day. The ring of
ice would creep on ever nearer to the middle of the lake, be destroyed
again and again by new gales, and then begin again to enchain the
waters. And at length, on a day in January, when the layers of water
were cooled through and through and no wind disturbed the air, I should
see the god of Tso-mavang stretch a ringing roof of glass over his green
palace, and the winter storms bestrew it with white powder and drive the
whirling snow in dense clouds over the ice, with its smooth, dark-green
surface peeping out here and there. And on calm days the lake would lie
a white plain, lifeless and lonely under its white shroud, and I should
sit by the bier of my friend longing for the spring. In vain would the
first storms of spring contend with the solidity of the ice and its
brave resistance, but at last the sun would come to help the wind, and
would make the ice brittle and rotten. Leads and fissures would start up
in all directions, and the next storm that swept over the ice would
overcome all resistance, flinging about the ice blocks and piling them
up one on another, driving them to the shore, and sweeping breakers over
them so that they would be crushed, splintered, pulverized, and melted
in the rolling surf. Then I should rejoice at the victory of the storm,
the release of Tso-mavang and its restoration to life, and would listen
to the song of the waves and the screaming of the wild geese.
[Illustration: 259. THE OLD NUN IN YANGGO-GOMPA.
Sketch by the Author.]
Perhaps an hour such as I spent at the parapet of Gossul comes only once
a year. The effect is the result of a certain temperature, a certain
percentage of humidity, calm air, preceded by rain and a north-easterly
storm. How seldom are all these conditions fulfilled? At most once a
year, and just at this hour, this hour of all hours, I stood on the
roof and saw the blue lake at rest after its play.
Wonderful, attractive, enchanting lake! Theme of story and legend,
playground of storms and changes of colour, apple of the eye of gods and
men, goal of weary, yearning pilgrims, holiest of the holiest of all the
lakes of the world, art thou, Tso-mavang, lake of all lakes. Navel of
old Asia, where four of the most famous rivers of the world, the
Brahmaputra, the Indus, the Sutlej, and the Ganges, rise among gigantic
peaks, surrounded by a world of mountains, among which is Kailas, the
most famous in the world; for it is sacred in the eyes of hundreds of
millions of Hindus, and is the centre of a wreath of monasteries where
every morning blasts of conches sound out from the roofs over the lake.
Axle and hub of the wheel, which is an image of life, and round which
the pilgrims wander along the way of salvation towards the land of
perfection. That is Manasarowar, the pearl of all the lakes of the
world. Hoary with age when the books of the Veda were written, its blue
billows have in the course of centuries seen innumerable troops of
faithful Hindus and Tibetans arrive at its banks, there to drink, bathe,
and find rest for their souls. There are certainly more beautiful lakes
in the world. Its western neighbour, for instance, Langak-tso, is more
picturesque. But there is none which unites with natural beauty such an
influence on the faith and souls of men. That is why the roar of its
waves is so attractive, and a sojourn on its shore so fascinating.
Standing up on the convent roof, while silence reigns around, one
fancies one hears innumerable wanderers approaching, and the echo of
their stumbling feet on the holy path around the lake. And one casts a
glance into the night of past centuries, which have left no trace of
their aspirations and vain search after an imaginary blessedness. But
Tso-mavang remains the same as it was then, and its azure-blue eye sees
new generations treading in the footsteps of the old.
After such an hour everything else seems commonplace. Not till the blush
of evening flooded the lake with a purple tinge could I tear myself away
and go down to my camp on the shore. Once more I turned to Tso-mavang
and called out a loud prolonged "Om a hum." Rabsang said nothing, but I
could see that he was wondering whether I had become the latest convert
of the Lamaistic church, and with the more reason because I had insisted
on travelling round the lake in the orthodox direction--southwards by
the east bank and northwards by the west bank.
The tracks of 120 yaks were discernible in the sand, which had passed
northwards in the morning laden with brick tea. An old Hindu, who was
performing the circuit of the lake in the same direction as the
Tibetans, begged to be allowed to camp beside us, because he was afraid
of robbers; we regaled him with tea, bread, and tobacco, and he asked us
to accept a handful of rice. It is singular that the Hindu pilgrims seem
to hold the Lamaistic monasteries in veneration; at least I saw them bow
before the Lamaistic gods in Tugu-gompa, and place a handful of rice in
the bowl which a monk held out to them.
After a temperature of 43.9° in the night the morning air seemed quite
warm. A fresh easterly breeze ruffled the surface of the lake, and the
foam-tipped waves shone in the sun, but the day was beautiful and I was
full of life, and eager to go out upon the lake. The old Hindu said that
he had resolved to postpone his pilgrimage and go with us in the boat,
but I assured him that we would take no unnecessary ballast. But he
followed us on the bank as we rowed through the surf to Camp No. 213,
easily recognizable by its old fire-place, and when we steered thence
seawards straight towards Tugu-gompa, visible as a white speck in the
south-east, he was so eager to go with us that he ran into the water and
did not turn back till it reached to his middle. He was certainly a
little silly; he had talked nonsense all the evening, though no one had
listened to him.
[Illustration: 260. The Holy Lake Manasarowar from Tugu-gompa, with
Kailas in the background.
Water-colour Sketch by the Author.]
The new line of soundings was marked No. 4 on my map of the lake. Its
greatest depth was 249 feet. At the ninth sounding-station the red metal
disc of the current-meter became entangled in the sounding-line. It was
torn away from its screws and twisted like a boomerang in mad gyrations
down through the crystal-clear water to a depth of 207 feet, there to
sleep in the mud of Tso-mavang till the day of judgment. Fortunately it
could easily be replaced.
When we landed at the monastery, all our men, and the monks and the
pilgrims on the shore, were there to receive us. The first we caught
sight of was the old crazy Hindu. His fellow-countrymen had taken it for
granted that we must have perished in the storm, and therefore were very
astonished to see us come back alive. But as I was now here again, they
thought that they might take advantage of it, and asked me to present
them one and all with new trousers, a request that I considered very
importunate.
On August 10 I sat in my tent door and painted Kailas in different
lights (Illust. 260). Its white summit stood out cold and bare against a
bright blue cloudless sky, and the lake was of a deep, dazzling
ultramarine. When a breeze swept over the surface it was in the distance
like clear green malachite. After sunset the sky was orange-coloured,
and the lake, of just the same colour, reflected the outlines of the
mountains in quivering serpentine lines. The evening before, the whole
western horizon had glowed with bright red flames.