CHAPTER XXVII.

Poetry.--Journalism.--The Fine Arts.--The Lyceum.--Mineralogical

cabinet.--Museum.--Servian Education.

In the whole range of the Slaavic family there is no nation possessing

so extensive a collection of excellent popular poetry. The romantic

beauty of the region which they inhabit, the relics of a wild

mythology, which, in its general features, has some resemblance to

that of Greece and Scandinavia,--the adventurous character of the

population, the vicissitudes of guerilla warfare, and a hundred

picturesque incidents which are lost to the muses when war is carried

on on a large scale by standing armies, are all given in a dialect,

which, for musical sweetness, is to other Slavonic tongues what the

Italian is to the languages of Western Europe.[21]

The journalism of Servia began at Vienna; and a certain M. Davidovitch

was for many years the interpreter of Europe to his less enlightened

countrymen. The journal which he edited is now published at Pesth, and

printed in Cyrillian letters. There were in 1843 two newspapers at

Belgrade, the _State Gazette_ and the _Courier_; but the latter has

since been dropped, the editor having vainly attempted to get its

circulation allowed in the Servian districts of Hungary. Many copies

were smuggled over in boats, but it was an unremunerating speculation;

and the editor, M. Simonovitch, who was bred a Hungarian advocate, is

now professor of law in the Lyceum. Yankee hyperbole was nothing to

the high flying of this gentleman. In one number, I recollect the

passage, "These are the reasons why all the people of Servia, young

and old, rich and poor, danced and shouted for joy, when the Lord gave

them as a Prince a son of the never-to-be-forgotten Kara Georg." A

Croatian newspaper, containing often very interesting information on

Bosnia, is published at Agram, the language being the same as the

Servian, but printed in Roman instead of Cyrillian letters. The _State

Gazette_ of Belgrade gives the news of the interior and exterior, but

avoids all reflections on the policy of Russia or Austria. An article,

which I wrote on Servia for an English publication, was reproduced in

a translation minus all the allusions to these two powers; and I think

that, considering the dependent position of Servia, abstinence from

such discussions is dictated by the soundest policy.

The "Golubitza," or Dove, a miscellany in prose and verse, neatly got

up in imitation of the German Taschenbucher, and edited by M.

Hadschitch, is the only annual in Servia. In imitation of more

populous cities, Belgrade has also a "Literary Society," for the

formation of a complete dictionary of the language, and the

encouragement of popular literature. I could not help smiling at the

thirteenth statute of the society, which determines that the seal

should represent an uncultivated field, with the rising sun shining on

a monument, on which the arms of Servia are carved.

The fine arts are necessarily at a very low ebb in Servia. The useful

being so imperfect, the ornamental scarcely exists at all. The

pictures in the churches are mostly in the Byzantine manner, in which

deep browns and dark reds are relieved with gilding, while the

subjects are characterized by such extravagancies as one sees in the

pictures of the early German painters, a school which undoubtedly took

its rise from the importations of Byzantine pictures at Venice, and

their expedition thence across the Alps. At present everything

artistic in Servia bears a coarse German impress, such as for instance

the pictures in the cathedral of Belgrade.

Thus has civilization performed one of her great evolutions. The light

that set on the Thracian Bosphorus rose in the opposite direction from

the land of the once barbarous Hermans, and now feebly re-illumines

the modern Servia.

One of the most hopeful institutions of Belgrade is the Lyceum, or

germ of a university, as they are proud to call it. One day I went to

see it, along with Professor Shafarik, and looked over the

mineralogical collection made in Servia, by Baron Herder, which

included rich specimens of silver, copper, and lead ore, as well as

marble, white as that of Carrara. The Studenitza marble is slightly

grey, but takes a good polish. The coal specimens were imperfectly

petrified, and of bad quality, the progress of ignition being very

slow. Servia is otherwise rich in minerals; but it is lamentable to

see such vast wealth dormant, since none of the mines are worked.

We then went to an apartment decorated like a little ball-room, which

is what is called the cabinet of antiquities. A noble bronze head,

tying on the German stove, in the corner of the room, a handsome Roman

lamp and some antique coins, were all that could be shown of the

ancient Moesia; but there is a fair collection of Byzantine and Servian

coins, the latter struck in the Venetian manner, and resembling old

sequins.

A parchment document, which extended to twice the length of a man,

was now unrolled, and proved to be a patent of Stephan Urosh, the

father of Stephan Dushan, endowing the great convent of Dechani, in

Albania. Another curiosity in the collection is the first banner of

Kara Georg, which the Servians consider as a national relic. It is in

red silk, and bears the emblem of the cross, with the inscription

"Jesus Christ conquers."

We then went to the professor's room, which was furnished with the

newest Russ, Bohemian, and other Slaavic publications, and after a

short conversation visited the classes then sitting. The end of

education in Servia being practical, prominence is given to geometry,

natural philosophy, Slaavic history and literature, &c. Latin and

Greek are admitted to have been the keys to polite literature, some

two centuries and a half ago; but so many lofty and noble chambers

having been opened since then, and routine having no existence in

Servia, her youth are not destined to spend a quarter of a lifetime in

the mere nurseries of humanity.

FOOTNOTES:

[Footnote 21: To those who take an interest in this subject, I have

great pleasure in recommending a perusal of "Servian Popular Poetry,"

(London, 1827,) translated by Dr. Bowring; but the introductory

matter, having been written nearly twenty years ago, is, of course,

far from being abreast of the present state of information on the

subjects of which it treats.]

Servia, Youngest Member of the European Family or, A Residence in Belgrade and Travels in the Highlands and Woodlands of the Interior, during the years 1843 and 1844. · 第 27 / 35 章