CHAPTER XXV.

Personal Appearance of the Servians.--Their Moral

Character.--Peculiarities of Manners.--Christmas

Festivities.--Easter.--The Dodola.

The Servians are a remarkably tall and robust race of men; in form and

feature they bespeak strength of body and energy of mind: but one

seldom sees that thorough-bred look, which, so frequently found in the

poorest peasants of Italy and Greece, shows that the descendants of

the most polite of the ancients, although disinherited of dominion,

have not lost the corporeal attributes of nobility. But the women of

Servia I think very pretty. In body they are not so well shaped as the

Greek women; but their complexions are fine, the hair generally black

and glossy, and their head-dress particularly graceful. Not being

addicted to the bath, like other eastern women, they prolong their

beauty beyond the average climacteric; and their houses, with rooms

opening on a court-yard and small garden, are favourable to health and

beauty. They are not exposed to the elements as the men; nor are they

cooped up within four walls, like many eastern women, without a

sufficient circulation of air.

Through all the interior of Servia, the female is reckoned an inferior

being, and fit only to be the plaything of youth and the nurse of old

age. This peculiarity of manners has not sprung from the four

centuries of Turkish occupation, but appears to have been inherent in

old Slaavic manners, and such as we read of in Russia, a very few

generations ago; but as the European standard is now rapidly adopted

at Belgrade, there can be little doubt that it will thence, in the

course of time, spread over all Servia.

The character of the Servian closely resembles that of the Scottish

Highlander. He is brave in battle, highly hospitable; delights in

simple and plaintive music and poetry, his favourite instruments

being the bagpipe and fiddle: but unlike the Greek be shows little

aptitude for trade; and unlike the Bulgarian, he is very lazy in

agricultural operations. All this corresponds with the Scottish Celtic

character; and without absolute dishonesty, a certain low cunning in

the prosecution of his material interests completes the parallel.

The old customs of Servia are rapidly disappearing under the pressure

of laws and European institutions. Many of these could not have

existed except in a society in which might made right. One of these

was the vow of eternal brotherhood and friendship between two

individuals; a treaty offensive and defensive, to assist each other in

the difficult passages of life. This bond is considered sacred and

indissoluble. Frequently remarkable instances of it are found in the

wars of Kara Georg. But now that regular guarantees for the security

of life and property exist, the custom appears to have fallen into

desuetude. These confederacies in the dual state, as in Servia, or

multiple, as in the clan system of Scotland and Albania, are always

strongest in turbulent times and regions.[20]

Another of the old customs of Servia was sufficiently characteristic

of its lawless state. Abduction of females was common. Sometimes a

young man would collect a party of his companions, break into a

village, and carry off a maiden. To prevent re-capture they generally

went into the woods, where the nuptial knot was tied by a priest

_nolens volens_. Then commenced the negotiation for a reconciliation

with the parents, which was generally successful; as in many instances

the female had been the secret lover of the young man, and the other

villagers used to add their persuasion, in order to bring about a

pacific solution. But if the relations of the girl mode a legal affair

of it, the young woman was asked if it was by her own will that she

was taken away; and if she made the admission then a reconciliation

took place: if not, those concerned in the abduction were fined, Kara

Georg put a stop to this by proclamation, punishing the author of an

abduction with death, the priest with dismissal, and the assistants

with the bastinado.

The Haiducks, or outlawed robbers, who during the first quarter of the

present century infested the woods of Servia, resembled the Caterans

of the Highlands of Scotland, being as much rebels as robbers, and

imagined that in setting authority at defiance they were not acting

dishonourably, but combating for a principle of independence. They

robbed only the rich Moslems, and were often generous to the poor.

Thus robbery and rebellion being confounded, the term Haiduck is not

considered opprobrious; and several old Servians have confessed to me

that they had been Haiducks in their youth, I am sure that the

adventures of a Servian Rob Roy might form the materials of a stirring

Romance. There are many Haiducks still in Bosnia, Herzegovina, and on

the western Balkan; but the race in Servia is extinct, and plunder is

the only object of the few robbers who now infest the woods in the

west of Servia.

Such are the customs that have just disappeared; but many national

peculiarities still remain. At Christmas, for instance, every peasant

goes to the woods, and cuts down a young oak; as soon as he returns

home, which is in the twilight; he says to the assembled family, "A

happy Christmas eve to the house;" on which a male of the family

scatters a little grain on the ground and answers, "God be gracious to

you, our happy and honoured father." The housewife then lays the young

oak on the fire, to which are thrown a few nuts and a little straw,

and the evening ends in merriment.

Next day, after divine service, the family assemble around the dinner

table, each bearing a lighted candle; and they say aloud, "Christ is

born: let us honour Christ and his birth." The usual Christmas drink

is hot wine mixed with honey. They have also the custom of First Foot.

This personage is selected beforehand, under the idea that he will

bring luck with him for the ensuing year. On entering the First Foot

says, "Christ is born!" and receives for answer, "Yes, he is born!"

while the First Foot scatters a few grains of corn on the floor. He

then advances and stirs up the wood on the fire, so that it crackles

and emits sparks; on which the First Foot says, "As many sparks so

many cattle, so many horses, so many goats, so many sheep, so many

boars, so many bee hives, and so much luck and prosperity.'" He then

throws a little money into the ashes, or hangs some hemp on the door;

and Christmas ends with presents and festivities.

At Easter, they amuse themselves with the game of breaking hard-boiled

eggs, having first examined those of an opponent to see that they are

not filled with wax. From this time until Ascension day the common

formula of greeting is "Christ has arisen!" to which answer is made,

"Yes; he has truly arisen or ascended!" And on the second Monday after

Easter the graves of dead relations are visited.

One of the most extraordinary customs of Servia is that of the Dodola.

When a long drought has taken place, a handsome young woman is

stripped, and so dressed up with grass, flowers, cabbage and other

leaves, that her face is scarcely visible; she then, in company with

several girls of twelve or fifteen years of age, goes from house to

house singing a song, the burden of which is a wish for rain. It is

then the custom of the mistress of the house at which the Dodola is

stopped to throw a little water on her. This custom used also to be

kept up in the Servian districts of Hungary; but has been forbidden by

the priests.

FOOTNOTES:

[Footnote 20: The most perfect confederacy of this description is that

of the Druses, which has stood the test of eight centuries, and in its

secret organization is complete beyond any thing attained by

freemasonry.]

Servia, Youngest Member of the European Family or, A Residence in Belgrade and Travels in the Highlands and Woodlands of the Interior, during the years 1843 and 1844. · 第 25 / 35 章