Of these there are a great number in Shrewsbury, which assemble agreeably
to their rules at different public houses, and would be far too many for
enumeration here. Suffice it to say that, the MASONIC SOCIETY, the most
respectable of them, assembles monthly on Mondays, at the Crown Inn.
Inland Navigation.
The Severn has its source from a chalybeate spring on the eastern side of
Plinlimmon, a mountain in Montgomeryshire, in North Wales, from whence
rushing down with a swift current, and being joined by many smaller
torrents, it presently appears considerable, and passing by Llanidloes
and Newtown, becomes navigable at Pool Quay, where the Vyrniew joins it
with a stream little inferior to its own; from thence proceeding gently
forward to Shrewsbury, which it surrounds nearly in the form of an
horseshoe, it flows on through a rich vale with many extensive windings,
till it comes to Benthall Edge, by the way receiving into it the river
Tern, which waters all the north of Shropshire. Here the Severn begins
to be rapid, being pent up between two opposite hills, both very lofty
and steep; and from thence to Bridgnorth and Bewdley, the channel is
confined by high woody banks and rocky cliffs, which afford a variety of
beautiful prospects. Afterwards it again glides pleasantly on through
the fertile plains of Worcestershire, visiting in its way the city
itself, and a little below is considerably augmented by the influx of the
river Teme. This addition, however, is much inferior to that which it
receives from its junction with the river Avon, at Tewkesbury. These two
rivers thus united, pursue their course to Gloucester, and about fifty
miles below that city are lost in the Bristol Channel.
This river, justly esteemed the second in Britain, is of great
importance, being navigated by vessels of large burden, more than 160
miles from the sea, without the assistance of any lock. Upwards of
100,000 tons of coal are annually shipped from the collieries about
Madeley and Broseley, for the cities and towns situate on its banks, and
thence conveyed into the adjacent counties. Great quantities of grain,
pig and bar iron, iron manufactures, Coalport china and earthenware, as
well as wool, hops, cyder, and provisions, are likewise continually sent
to Bristol and other places, from whence various kinds of goods are
brought in return. In May, 1756, the number of Barges and Trows on the
river Severn navigating from Shrewsbury downwards to Bristol amounted to
376, and since that time, by the addition of the inland canals from the
Trent, the Mersey and the Thames, into the Stroud navigation, it may
fairly be calculated that not less than double that number are now
employed.
Shrewsbury Canal.
This canal commences on the north-east side of Shrewsbury, and winding
with the Severn passes Uffington, where it runs parallel with the river
Tern and passes Upton Forge, Withington, Roddington, where it crosses the
river Roden, also the river Tern, at Long Mill; passes Long, Eyton,
crosses Ketley Brook at Wrockwardine Wood, and there joins the Donnington
Wood and the Shropshire Canals. The total length is 17½ miles; with 147
feet rise in the five miles between Long and Wombridge; the rest is
level.—The principal use of this canal is the conveyance of coals for the
consumption of Shrewsbury and the intermediate places, from the numerous
coal works in the eastern part of Shropshire, which furnish that article
of an excellent quality. The best are delivered in Shrewsbury at about
15s. per ton.
_ENVIRONS OF THE TOWN_.
Sutton Spa.
QUITTING Shrewsbury by the suburb of Coleham, and proceeding for about a
mile along a narrow lane, we reach Sutton Spa. Few countries in Europe
can boast of more medicinal or mineral waters than England, the virtues
of which have been well established, not from vulgar experience only, but
from the repeated examinations of the most skilful physicians. The
uncommon frequency of the healing springs may rationally be attributed to
the lixivious quality of our rain water, to the variety of rich soils,
with the spoils of which, from their property of dissolving, they must be
fraught, and to the wonderful and inimitable chemistry of nature by which
they are so happily impregnated as to become the easiest and surest
remedies of the most grievous and otherwise incurable diseases.
For the following account of this Spa the author is indebted to a paper
drawn up by Dr. Evans, (now of Llwynygroes,) and inserted in the
Agricultural Survey of Shropshire by the Rev. Archdeacon Corbett:
“Sutton Spa is situated about two miles south of Shrewsbury, on the
slope of a gentle eminence, and close to a village of the same name.
The spring issues from a rocky stratum of ash coloured clay, or
argillaceous schistus, containing (as appears by its effervescence
with nitrous acid) a small portion of lime. Fresh from the spring,
the Sutton water is clear and colourless, and exales a slightly
sulphureous smell; which is most perceptible in rainy weather. It
sparkles little when poured into a glass, having no _uncombined_
carbonic acid in its composition. When first drawn its strong salt
taste is evidently mixed with a chalybeate flavour; but the latter is
wholly lost on exposure for a few hours, bubbles of air separating
slowly, and a reddish sediment lining the sides and bottom of the
vessel.
“The Sutton water has by many been compared with that of Cheltenham,
and supposed to contain nearly the same ingredients. It bears,
however, a much closer resemblance to sea-water, and has accordingly
been found most beneficial in those cases for which sea-water is
usually recommended.
“In the case of scrophula, the superior merits of sea-water has been
uniformly and universally acknowledged. A similarity of ingredients
would naturally lead us to expect similar effects from the Sutton
water; and I am happy to bear testimony, that a twenty years practice
at the Salop Infirmary, as well as in private practice, has furnished
me with abundant proofs of its success in the treatment of
scrophulous affections; and in addition to the properties possessed
by the Sutton-spring in common with sea-water, it enjoys one evident
advantage in containing iron. {108}
“The air of Sutton, as might be expected from its open elevated
situation, is dry and wholesome. The site commands a rich and highly
variegated prospect, bounded on one side by the magnificent group of
Breyddin and Moel y Golfa, with a long range of Welsh mountains
rising in full majesty behind them; and on the other by their no mean
rivals, the Wrekin and Stretton Hills. The view of Shrewsbury,
betwixt the branches of the adjoining wood, particularly when the
setting sun gilds every object with his mellowest light, is greatly
and most deservedly admired. The walk from Shrewsbury is pleasant
and picturesque; and the neighbourhood of a reasonable and abundant
market, can be considered as no trifling object, when compared with
the extravagant prices and scanty accommodations of many of our
remote watering-places.”
Since the before-named estimable and respectable physician drew up the
account (about 1801) of the Spa, from which the above is extracted, a
neat cottage and baths for hot and cold bathing have been erected by the
noble proprietor, provided with comfortable accommodations for invalids.
We cannot help thinking, that “while almost every fishing village on the
coast is preparing conveniences for sea-bathing, how desirable would it
be to extend similar advantages to the interior parts of the island,
where poverty or infirmity render it impossible to visit the distant
sea.”
The town is regained by a pleasant walk along the lane above the Spa,
which leads the tourist into the Abbey Foregate, very near to the column
erected in honour of Lord Hill.
Shelton Oak,
Stands about one mile and a half from Shrewsbury, just where the Pool
road diverges from that which leads to Oswestry. This oak is remarkable,
as well for its size as its traditional history. Owen Glyndwr is said to
have ascended it at the battle of Shrewsbury to reconnoitre; but finding
that the king had a numerous army, and that Northumberland had not joined
his son Hotspur, he fell back to Oswestry, and, immediately after the
battle, retreated precipitately into Wales.
The tree is now in a complete state of decay, even its larger
ramifications; and within the hollow of it at bottom six persons at least
may sit down and partake of refreshment.
Excursion to Haughmond Abbey and Uffington.
The pedestrian may, in this walk proceed either along the turnpike road
or by the side of the river; we shall make choice, however, of the
former, on account of its facility for the description of several
interesting objects which present themselves on the route.
Proceeding from the town through the suburb of Castle Foregate, we leave
the extensive linen factory of Messrs. Marshall, and Co. on the left, the
monotonous noise from the machinery of which is very agreeably relieved
by the pleasant and extensive view that presents itself, in conjunction
with the bleaching fields belonging to Messrs. Benyons’ factory on the
right, and renders the prospect extremely interesting. At the distance
of one mile from the town, on the left, is the Old Heath. Previous to
the erection of the present excellent prison, all condemned malefactors
expiated their offences by the sacrifice of their lives to the offended
laws of their country in a field which adjoins the road at this place.
Continuing our jaunt to the turnpike, and keeping to the right, at the
distance of about 2½ mites from Shrewsbury we reach Sundorn Castle, the
residence of Mrs. Corbet. The landscape in travelling along this road is
exquisitely beautiful; rich corn fields and pastures demonstrate the
fertility of the soil, watered by the majestic stream of the Severn, with
a great number of rivulets which, descending from the uplands, pour their
tributary streams into that river; while the pleasant seats and farm
houses, thickly scattered through the scene in contemplation, and
surrounded by clumps of trees and copse wood, satisfy the spectator that
nature has not in this neighbourhood lavished her treasures in vain.
The elegant mansion of Sundorn was erected in the castellated style by
the late John Corbet, Esq.: Its site in a beautiful lawn, the venerable
appearance of the castle, the sloping banks which surround the large
sheet of water covered with plantations, the rich verdure of the
adjoining woods, numerous corn fields and pasture grounds tufted with
trees, the hedgerows and walks happily arranged, the bold appearance of
the castle on the adjoining hill, diversify the scene and render the
_tout ensemble_ extremely interesting.
Within the demesne of Sundorn, the remains of Haughmond Abbey are
situated. Of the foundation of this once venerable pile there is now no
entire trace. Of the Abbey-church, nothing remains but the south door of
the nave, a most beautiful and highly adorned round arch, resting on
slender shafts, between which on each side have been inserted a Gothic
tabernacle, inclosing statues of St. Peter and St. Paul. The
chapter-house is entire; it is oblong, with the upper end forming two
sides of a hexagon. The roof is of fine oak, and above has been another
story. The entrance is by a richly decorated round arch, with a window
on each side, divided into two round arched compartments, by slender
short pillars. The spaces between the shafts of these arches have Gothic
niches, and statues of the Virgin Mary, Gabriel, St. Catherine, St. John,
&c. South of the chapter house, and opposite the site of the church, are
remains of the Refectory, and beyond a large building, consisting of a
spacious hall, eighty-one feet by thirty-six, lighted by Gothic windows
on each side, and a large one, once filled with tracery, at the west end.
On the north side is a curious antique fire-place. Communicating with
this, at the eastern extremity, and at right angles, is another apartment
of nearly the same size, once evidently in two rooms. At the south end
is an elegant bay window. It is conceived this building formed the
abbot’s lodgings and hall. The situation of the Abbey on a rising
ground, backed by a noble distant forest, commands a very rich and
extensive view of the great plain of Shrewsbury, with the town and
castle, enriched by mountainous tracts.
Proceeding from the Abbey along the bottom of the wood, and ascending the
hill, we reach a shooting box, erected in the form of an ancient turret,
by the late Mr. Corbet. Near it Lord Douglas, in the battle of
Shrewsbury, was taken prisoner, in attempting to precipitate himself down
the steep, when his horse fell under him, and he received a severe
contusion on the knee. On reaching the summit of this hill, the
traveller will enjoy a beautiful prospect. His attention is lost in
variety; and his imagination for a while suspends its powers in
contemplating indiscriminately the vast but diversified assemblage. In
this situation he will recollect with pleasure the animated lines of
Thomson, whose descriptive genius must continue to do honour to his
country, as long as taste and elegance are regarded.
“Meantime you gain the height, from whose fair brow
The bursting prospect spreads immense around,
And snatch’d o’er hill, and dale, and wood, and lawn,
And verdant fields, and darkening heath between,
And villages embosom’d soft in trees,
And spiring towns, by surging columns mark’d
Of household smoke, your eye excursive roams,
Wide stretching from the hall, {113} in whose kind haunt
The hospitable genius lingers still,
To where the broken landscape, by degrees
Ascending, roughens into rigid hills.”
The spectator, if he has any taste for the sublime and beautiful in
nature, will find himself abundantly repaid for the labour of the ascent.
His eyes will wander with pleasure over the beautiful villas, the retreat
of the rich and affluent, diversified with woods and corn-fields, that
present themselves on the fertile plain adjoining the hill. Immediately
before him, he will discover the ancient town of Shrewsbury, with its
lofty spires, its noble river and canal, whilst in the distance a range
of green mountains, interspersed with woods, that seem to be carelessly
scattered on their sloping sides, form a suitable background to this
picturesque and interesting scene.
Descending from the hill, we immediately reach the pleasant village of
Uffington, situated on the banks of the Severn, where at the Bowling
Green excellent accommodations will be met with. From hence the canal
and river side afford a pleasant walk, which reconducts us to our
starting place—Shrewsbury.
Attingham Hall,
Distant about four miles on the London road, is built of beautiful free
stone, and is situated in a very extensive lawn on the banks of the river
Tern, over which is a handsome bridge erected by the late lord Berwick.
The south front, which is upwards of 365 feet in length, has an extremely
grand appearance; being decorated with lofty Ionic pilasters and a
magnificent portico. The interior of the house has much to recommend it,
particularly its lofty and spacious hall, the entablature of which is
supported by Verd Antique Scaglioni columns, with statuary capitals and
bases. The picture gallery is a spacious room 78 feet 6 inches long, by
25 feet 6 inches wide, and 24 feet high. It contains many _chef
d’œuvres_ of the old masters, particularly some valuable ones by
Raffaello—Parmigiano—Paolo Veronese—Annibal
Caracci—Rubens—Vandyck—Poussin—Kuyp—the Ostade’s—Murillo—Salvator
Rosa—Berchem. The walls of this elegant room are of a deep lake colour;
the ceiling supported by porphyry columns of the Corinthian order, the
capitals and bases of which are beautifully gilded. Underneath the
cornice of this extensive room is a gold fringe of great depth. The
floor is inlaid with rich Mosaic work, and the grand staircase is
finished in a corresponding style of magnificence. The suite of drawing
rooms is superbly furnished with immense plate glasses and burnished gold
furniture, and the ceilings are richly gilt. The boudoir is a beautiful
small circular room, the pannels of which are decorated by the pencil of
one of our first artists. The library is in the west wing, and is a very
extensive and lofty room, the cornice is supported by rich Corinthian
pilasters; and besides a very valuable collection of books, it contains
several rare specimens of sculpture from the antique. Among those most
worthy notice is a font {115} from Hadrian’s Villa; on the basso relievo
on its exterior the story of Narcissus is beautifully told. A rich
candelabra from the antique, of exquisite workmanship, near ten feet
high—a fine colossal statue of Apollo Belvidere—a beautiful
Esculapius—with a splendid collection of Etruscan vases from Herculaneum,
busts, chimeras, &c. &c. The rooms on the first floor correspond in the
grandeur and magnificence of their furniture with those on the ground
floor.
The house was built originally from a design by Mr. Stewart, but it has
lately undergone a very extensive alteration, under the superintendance
of Mr. Nash; the rich and costly carvings and ornamental furniture, were
executed by Mr. Donaldson, of Shrewsbury, whose correct taste in that
fine art is too well appreciated to need any eulogium here.
The situation of the house is healthy and delightful; and the grounds
contiguous thereto have lately been much improved. The view of this
elegant seat, from the public road near the before-mentioned bridge has a
fine effect: its beautiful front—the extensive shrubberies—with the park
richly clothed with fine timber on the back ground, rising to a
considerable height above the mansion; whilst in the distance on the left
will be seen the pleasing village of Atcham—its parish church—and bridge,
present, even to the passing stranger, a very pleasing scene. The
gardens, walks and pleasure grounds, are laid out with taste, and display
some very fine scenery.
Hawkstone,
The seat of the noble and celebrated family of the Hills, is situated on
the eastern border of the county, about 14 miles from Salop, and though
with regard to the surrounding country it may be said to stand on an
extensive plain, it in itself consists of a group of prominent and
astonishingly romantic rocks, forming by far one of the most attractive
features, not only of this, but perhaps, taken altogether, of any other
county. To attempt a particular or even a general description, would
very far exceed the limits of our whole book, as a cursory inspection of
its wonders occupies a walk of several days. General Paoli, who visited
this place before the late improvements, publicly declared that in all
his extensive travels, not even excepting Italy or Switzerland, there
were some scenes here that surpassed in grandeur any thing he had seen.—A
slight notice of some of its principal beauties will best become our
humble efforts in so limited a work. The house, though spacious and
elegant, and not of very ancient erection, notwithstanding it is
embellished with some fine specimens of sculpture and painting, forms but
a small part of what is sought after here; the attractive powers of
Hawkstone consisting entirely in the enchantment of the surrounding
scenery. Three or four massive rocks irregularly grouped, with their
fine wooded sides disclosing at intervals abrupt crags, towers, and
shelving precipices, with intermediate vallies of still seclusion and
spreading lawns of verdant freshness, together with many a broad expanse
of park, studded with luxuriant trees either grouped in groves, or single
in feathery fullness, the whole enlivened by inhabitants appropriate,
picture to the sight both at once and successively—scenes only equalled
and seldom surpassed, even in the poetic regions of luxuriant
romance.—The Grotto is approached through a stupendous natural chasm of
great length, and narrowing till but one person at a time can pass, while
over head the sky is just seen at a great height; a dark cavern is then
passed, and the sky is again for a moment seen, when entering another
cavern of complete darkness and gradual ascent, the grotto is, after
considerable, though perfectly safe wandering, entered: the first
appearance of this spacious cavern is truly sublime, as it is seen by the
glimmering light of variously stained glass, throwing its lurid and
sepulchral faintness on the massive pillars, till at length the grotto is
entered with all its brilliance: It consists of a very extensive
excavation, finely fretted to its termination with a profusion of rich
petrifactions, shells, and marine productions. In one of its awful
recesses, through an iron grate, is seen the figure of a British Druid,
in complete costume, passing amid the massy pillars, in a dim and green
light.—After various windings, a door suddenly opens in the summit of the
precipice, where, over the shelving rocks below, and far above the
highest forests, a scene of magnificence bursts on the eye exceeding
almost conception. This height is with some difficulty descended by
innumerable winding steps cut in the solid rock.
A SCENE in SWITZERLAND is presented here on the heathy summit of one of
the mountains, where a narrow plank bridge crosses a deep chasm, and
connects two rocks of terrific height and cragginess.
The terrace formed on the ridge of one of the hills, finely wooded, is
terminated by an octagon summer-house, that commands a prospect of
astonishing extent, from whence the bordering mountains of Wales, with
parts of no less than 13 counties, are distinctly enumerated.—Near this
place is a Column, 112 feet high, surmounted with a colossal statue of
sir Rowland Hill, the first protestant lord mayor of London, in 1550, the
3rd year of Edward VI. In a most romantic glen, near this place, is an
Urn, erected by the late sir Richard Hill, purporting that it was the
hiding-place of one of his ancestors, during the civil wars of Edward I.
while his house was ravaged by the parliament soldiers; but that his son
speedily came to his assistance: the approach to and from it now is much
facilitated, without destroying the wildness of the scene, by extensive
passages and steps. Beyond this is a well-stocked Menagerie of living
Animals, principally birds.—From hence, round the sudden and abrupt
corner of a rock, and through the cleft body of an old oak, is entered
one of the sweetest vallies imagination can tint, and most properly
called ELYSIUM: It is bounded completely by wooded and inaccessible
rocks, and can only be entered at this narrow passage, or at the extreme
termination of its extent, about half a mile.—On the most western of this
group of rocks are the remains of RED CASTLE, built in the reign of Henry
III., though it is mentioned by this name in a grant as ancient as
William the Conqueror. It is now in awful ruins; but lofty fragments of
its walls form some of the most picturesque beauties of this romantic
place; and fling on the mind, if such scenes needed it, the additional
charm of that strange feeling that antiquity and fallen grandeur never
fail to excite. Amid these towers is a well of surprising depth; called
now the GIANT’S WELL. The site of this castle is ascended and descended
(as is usual amid most of the strange scenes here) by steps cut in the
rocks; and very frequently through caverns, sometimes natural, but always
surprising. At the bottom of one of these is suddenly seen a Lion in his
den, which, though assuredly a trifling toy amid such scenery, never
fails to astonish the generality of visitors.—Here is also a SCENE in
OTAHEITE, consisting chiefly of a Hut, built exactly on the model of what
our lamented countryman, Captain Cook witnessed in that happy island, and
ornamented accordingly: the scene wherein it is erected first pointed out
the propriety.
To enumerate, much more to describe, all, or even the principal
attractions of this wonderful place, would, as we before stated, very far
exceed the limits we have allotted thereunto: yet before we close, as we
would willingly please readers of every description, it may not be amiss
to notice what is not improperly called NEPTUNE’S WHIM, a spot no doubt
most largely applauded by the generality of visitors here. It is very
properly detached at a tolerable distance from the principal scenery of
Hawkstone; and consists of a cottage ornamented with shell-work and
cinders, amid ponds of fish; behind which is a mighty figure of the
marine god, with a profuse current gushing through his urn; he is
accompanied, of course, by his Tritons and Nereids, spouting water
through their leaden shells. This is acknowledgedly _a whim_ of his
godship, whereof he partakes with mortals; nor can these trifles, or even
some of the inscriptions, tend to lessen the august grandeur of this most
magnificent spot, wherein art has had little more to do than clear a
path, for the votaries of nature to have access to her most sportive and
astonishing charms.
What skill, what force divine,
Deep felt in these appear! a simple train,
Yet so delightful mix’d, with such kind art,
Such beauty and beneficence combin’d;
Shade, unperceiv’d, so softening into shade;
And all so forming an harmonious whole;
That as they still succeed they ravish still.