CHAPTER XIX.

GÄDDEBÄCK.

“I hung fine garments

On two wooden men

Who stand on the wall;

Heroes they seemed to be

When they were clothed;

The unclad are despisèd.”

_Hávamál._

The day had been oppressively hot, more actual heat, perhaps—reckoning

by the degrees of Reaumur or Farenheit—than had been experienced on the

fjeld of the Tellemark;—but that was dry, bracing, exhilarating heat,

such as is felt on the mountain side; this was the moist, feverish

warmth, caused by the sun’s rays acting on the wide expanse of the Wener

Sjön and its marshy shores, and secretly and imperceptibly drawing up

vapours, which would eventually fall in rain,—not, perhaps, on the spot

from which they had been raised, but on the cold distant mountains of

Fille Fjeld, which at once attracted and condensed them. There was not a

cloud in the sky, but the sun would not shine brightly or cheerily either.

The long summer’s day was, however, drawing to a close, and the party

were sitting at the extreme end of a little jetty which Moodie had built

out into the river on piles of solid fir. This was covered with an awning

of striped duck,—of little use as an awning so late in the day, for the

sun was low enough to peep under it, but still kept up, partly to tempt

the air of wind, which every now and then fluttered its vandyked border,

and partly as a preservative against the dews, which would be sure to

fall as soon as the sun dipped below the horizon.

From a flag-staff, stepped on the outermost pile, hung a huge red English

ensign, every now and then stirring in the breeze, half unrolling its

lazy folds and then dropping motionless against its staff. Moodie was

very particular about this flag, and hoisted it every morning with his

own hands,—for ever since he had fairly turned his back upon his native

land, he had become intensely national.

In the front and beneath them the broad, clear, deep, still, brimming

river, full four hundred yards from bank to bank, glided quietly along

with a calm unbroken surface, and a motion hardly sufficient to bring

a strain upon the chain cable of the little cutter that was moored

some twenty yards off the head of the pier, with her triangular burgee

fluttering out in the breeze that was not strong enough to move the

heavier ensign, and displaying the red cross and the golden R.Y.S. so

well known in every port in Europe. It was a singular thing to see it

here though, a hundred miles in the heart of Sweden, with the tremendous

Falls of Trollhättan between it and the sea.

Made fast to the rails of the jetty were half a dozen boats, of all

shapes and sizes—from the long narrow galley with its four well-scraped

ashen oars, to the little white flat-bottomed duck-punt,—for Gäddebäck,

though not, strictly speaking, an island, except during the freshets of

early summer, was so perfectly insulated by the sluggish brook and the

marshy ground through which it flowed, as to make all communication with

the main land, except by boat, extremely precarious.

Dinner had been over for some time, and the party had adjourned to the

jetty, as the coolest place they could find. They were sitting with their

wine glasses before them, while two or three bottles of light claret were

towing overboard, suspended in the cool water of the river by as many

night-lines.

“Upon my word,” said the Captain, throwing open his waistcoat, “the

West Indies is a fool to this; and it is not unlike a tropical climate

either,—moist, damp, and hot,—stewing rather than broiling.”

“To tell you the truth,” said the Parson, “I am surprised at your

selecting this spot for your residence, beautiful as it certainly is;

with all this marsh land about it, it cannot fail to be unhealthy.”

“Well, I do not know,” said Moodie, “they do talk of agues, certainly,

but these things never hurt me, and the place suits me well enough; there

is plenty of shooting—ducks and snipes without end; and on the other side

of that range of heights, not three miles from us, is a royal forest,

well preserved, in which I have full permission to kill anything I like,

except stags, elks, and perhaps peasants, though they do not make much

fuss about a man or two either; and, besides, the Ofwer Jagmästere is

a particular friend of mine. And as for fishing, it is not altogether

such as I should choose, no doubt, for it is mostly trolling,—but there

is some capital fishing, such as it is. I will show you what we can

do to-morrow at the upper rapids,—we have not been there yet. It is a

singular sort of sport, certainly; but if you are half the poacher you

used to be, you will like it for its novelty. However, the greatest

attraction that the place has in my eyes, lies in its situation: this

river is the high road from Gotheborg to Stockholm, and steamers pass it

every day. Living on this Robinson Crusoe island of mine, I can command

the best market in the country, and in fact, I do realize a very fair

income by my fish and my game. Look at my yacht, too, where else could I

put it to so great use. A short canal and a single lock passes me into

the great lake Wener, where I command some of the best rivers and some

of the best bear-country in Sweden. If I want to smell salt water again,

I have but to put my cutter in tow of the market-tug, and to steam away

to Gotheborg; and when I want to be sulky, here I am, looking after my

menagerie of Scandinavian birds and beasts, and adding odds and ends

to my museum. I dare say people wonder at the old flag ‘that braved a

thousand years, the battle and the breeze,’ as they pass backward and

forward in the steamers; but no one stops here, and you may be sure no

one would find me out by land. This is just the place for me; besides, it

is not always so hot as it is now,—I have driven my cariole across this

river, many a time.”

“By the way, what do you do with yourself in the winter?” said the

Captain; “you were never very much given to reading, and your shooting

and fishing must fail you then.”

“Fishing, yes; shooting, no,” said Moodie; “the finest bear shooting is

in the winter.”

“What! do you meet with bears in the forest?”

“Pooh, nonsense! you Englishmen are always fancying that we kick bears

out of every bush in Sweden.”

“You Englishmen!” said Birger, glancing at the flag.

“Well, well,—you Johnny Raws, I should say,—you freshmen—you griffins. I

was just as bad myself, though: I remember the day I landed at Gotheborg,

marching off with my gun over my shoulder to a little wooded valley at

the back of the town where the Gotheborg cockneys have their villas, and

attacking a Swede, dictionary in hand, with ‘Hvar er Bjornerne’—how the

scoundrel laughed.”

“Well, but what do you mean by bear shooting then,—where do you meet with

it?”

“Why, you travel a hundred miles to get a shot at a bear, and think

little of it too. The bear hunter must keep up a correspondence with

the Ofwer Jagmästerer of the different provinces, and get information

whenever the peasants have ringed a bear as they call it—that is to say,

ascertained that he is within a certain circle, and then out with the

sledge and the dogs, and the rifles, and away up the river, or across the

lake, as it may be. You do not meet with a bear at every turning, I can

assure you. I have killed a pretty many though, one way or other, since I

have been here.”

“That you have,” said the Captain,—“at least, if all those trophies that

ornament your walls are honestly come by; but by your own showing, you

cannot be hunting every day in the week; what do you do on the off-days?”

“Well, to tell you the truth, I was dull enough the first winter; you

will hardly believe it, but I took to reading—I did indeed; you may

laugh, but it is quite true. I got up the natural history of the country

thoroughly, and crammed Linnæus. But I soon found something better to

do, when I began to get acquainted with the people, worthy souls that

they are. I had invitations without end, and got on capitally with

them,—quite a popular character I am.”

“The English are popular,” said the Parson, certainly; “high and low

we have found that, wherever we have been. What we English have done

to deserve it is more than I can say; but Norway and Sweden, agreeing

in nothing else, agree at all events in doing honour to the English

traveller.”

“Do not be taking the conceit out of Moodie”, said Birger; “it is evident

that he would have you to understand that it is he, the individual,—not

he, the Englishman, who is thus honoured and caressed.”

“You need not be afraid of doing that,” said the Captain; “ever since I

have known him, Moodie has been a very great man,—in his own eyes, at all

events.”

“Why, you must know I am a great man here,” said Moodie, “whatever I was

in my own country. I am a kammerjunker—no less.”

“A what?” said the Captain.

“A kammerjunker; and, in virtue of it, I have a right to go before every

one of you.”

“Well, but how came you to be a what-do-you-call-him? ‘Who gave you that

name?’ as the Catechism says.”

“Not ‘my godfathers and godmothers,’ certainly,” said Moodie, “and I

hadn’t it ‘in my baptism;’ but I will tell you how it was. Sweden, in

the winter, is as different from the same country in the summer as

Connaught from Paradise. In the winter, they are fiddling, and dancing,

and singing, from night to morn, and from morn to snowy eve. There is

not much else to do, as you say, that is the truth of it, unless one

happens to hear of a bear; so when I came to understand a little of

their lingo, I was very glad to go to their jollifications. The people

were always very civil in asking me, wherever I was—that I must say for

them. Now we, in England, don’t care much about precedence, as you know.

Most of us do not know who is first and who is last, and the rest do not

care; and those who feel most secure of their rank, are generally too

proud to take the trouble of asserting it. But it is not so here; they

all know their places, like schoolboys, and fight for them like dogs

at a feeding-trough if you happen to make a mistake about them—a thing

which the natives never do. I did not care much about this at first, no

Englishman would,—in fact, I did not understand it; but after a bit it

got to be very unpleasant—it made me a marked man. Here was I, an English

gentleman, as noble as the king—and a little more so than that Brummagem

article of theirs,—shoved down, not only by counts and barons, which I

did not like over and above; for half the people you meet with here are

counts and barons,—and precious queer ones, some of them; but, besides

this, there were their confounded orders of knighthood: there are knights

of the Cherubim and Seraphim[45], and knights of the Elephant and Castle,

and knights of the Goose and Gridiron, and Heaven knows what besides.

Then came the officials, from the prime minister down to the post-master,

and their sons and grandsons. Why, there was not a tradesman I dealt

with, hardly a beggar I gave a shilling to, who had not a clear right to

go before me—aye, and showed every disposition to exercise it, too!

“One day I was ass enough to be vexed because my tailor, who was knight

of the Shears and Cabbage, or something of the sort, elbowed his way

before me; and one of my friends, I think it was this very Bjornstjerna,

the Ofwer Jagmästere, offered to get me a settled precedence. ‘Yours

is not a new family,’ says he.—Of course it was not, everybody knew

the Moodies, of Hampshire.—Well, that was all right; I had only to

get my sixteen quarters blazoned, and he would see that I was made a

kammerjunker. Sixteen quarters! thought I. I had had a great grandfather,

that is certain, for there he lies in Havant Church, with a ton of marble

over him, and his arms on the top of that, a chevron ermine between three

mermaids ppr. to cheer him up on his road to Paradise. He was a great

man, too, and looked as if he was the son of somebody, as the Spaniards

say, to judge by the picture of his coach-and-six, and outriders with

French-horns, which is hanging up in our hall, at Havant Manor. But he

had played ‘ducks and drakes’ with his guineas, and as for his quarters,

you know we don’t greatly trouble ourselves with such matters.

“Well, I told my difficulty to one of my friends in Stockholm—an idle

young scamp of an _attaché_. ‘Why the devil don’t you write to the

Herald’s College,’ said he, ‘they will trace your descent from the

Preadamite Grants,[46] if you pay for it. Tell them to make you up a

pedigree for Sweden, and, my life for it, they will get it up well.’

“I could not lose by it, you know, so I wrote, and, sure enough, they

found out that the old family had come over with Duke Rollo, and had

a hand in that conquest of ‘Normandie,’ which your fellow Torkel is

continually dinning into our ears. They found out, too, that our name

originally was spelt ‘Modige,’ which, in old Swedish, means ‘dashing,’

and that it was a title of honour, given to us for our gallantry in the

said conquest. And, what was pat to the present purpose, Duke Rollo

had conferred on us the honour of hereditary chamberlains, as soon as

ever he had a court to appoint us to. How we came to England I forget—I

suppose, though, it was with Duke William,—and what we did there I do

not know, unless it was plundering the Saxons, like the rest; but, at

all events, I got a string of shields, fit to roof Valhalla, and a

beautiful tree—rather an expensive plant it was, though, for I paid

sixty pounds for it. However, Bjornstjerna and my friend the _attaché_

marched off with the chevron ermine and the three mermaids to the

Hof-Ofwer-Something-or-other, and brought me back a sheet of parchment

with a big seal hanging from it, giving me the privilege of pulling off

the inexpressibles of the third prince of the blood royal—whenever it

should please Providence to bless his Majesty with one,—and in virtue of

that office to style myself kammerjunker.”

“So you are a greater man than your tailor, now?”

“O yes,” said Moodie, “I take precedence of all manner of people, and

moreover wear, whenever I please—which is not very often, you may be

sure,—a concern in my button-hole, something like what I used to wear

when I was Noble Grand of the Julius Cæsar Lodge of Oddfellows, at South

Marden. You may depend upon it I am something very great indeed, though I

must admit I do not know exactly what.”

“Very great indeed!” said Birger, who, as may be supposed, did not

feel his country particularly flattered by Moodie’s absurd—not to say

ungrateful—description of his honours, and retorted with a bit of Swedish

slang: “I am sure you are something ending in ‘ral,’ as the Karing’s wife

said to her husband; it certainly is not admiral—perhaps it is corporal?”

“Upon my word, Birger, I beg your pardon,” said Moodie, in some

confusion. “You speak English so perfectly, and look so like an

Englishman, that I forgot we are not all countrymen together.”

“Well, well,” said Birger, good humouredly, “I must confess there is a

great deal too much of truth in your satire, and that is what makes the

sting of it.”

“Never mind him, Birger,” said the Parson; “you Swedes are uncommon fine

fellows, and carry your honours in your history; I should like to know

what Europe would have done in the thirty years war, if it had not been

for Gustaf Adolph and Oxenstjerna? Why, it was you who thrashed Czar

Peter and all the Russias into something like civilization, and were the

making of his armies by licking them. Gallantly, too, did you hold your

own, under the other Gustaf, against the giant you had made; and I have

no doubt but that you would have thrashed the French giant Nap., as well

as the Russian giant Peter, if you had only made up your minds in time

which side you meant to fight on. But for all that, it is a fact, as

Moodie says, that, like the girls, you are a little too fond of ribbons.”

“It is very true,” said Birger; “we depreciate our own honours by our

over-lavish distribution of them. That which is plentiful, is cheap—that

which is little, valued. It is the law of nature, and as true of stars

and ribbons as it is of green peas and early potatoes.”

“To be sure it is,” said the Captain; “what regiment in our service cares

a button for the distinction of ‘Royal,’ which it shares with the Royal

African condemned corps? Who prizes the Waterloo medal, which places in

the same category the Englishman who fought and the Belgian who ran?”

“Yes,” said Moodie, who had by this time done blushing at his blunder,

“at the Congress of Vienna, Lord Castlereagh sat among the starry host of

plenipotentiaries in a plain blue coat, without one solitary decoration.

‘Ma foi! c’est bien distingué,’ said good Bishop Talleyrand, who himself

had a star for every oath he had broken, and whose tailor could not find

room on his coat for all of them!”

“It was ‘distingué,’” said the Captain; “he belonged to a country whose

citizens do their duty for their duty’s sake. That is distinction enough

for any man.”

“Yes,” said Birger, “_if they do_—but a good deal depends on that little

particle;—however, even if citizens could be got, whenever wanted, to do

their duty for their duty’s sake, which I doubt; distinctions, which of

course involve precedence, are useful in themselves. In your country,

people are always jealously guarding their position in society; you are

always on the look out, lest some interloper should thrust you out, or

refuse you the honour you consider your due. This is what makes you

Englishmen so unsociable and exclusive; you are always on guard, walking

sentry over your own honour. Now look at our people—our barons and our

tradesmen, our princes and our farmers, all meet together without fear of

losing caste, because every one has his position secured to him, beyond

the possibility of invasion. You dare not do this.”

“Do not say, ‘you,’” broke in the Captain, “I, thank God! am a gentleman

born, and have not to work for my daily dignity.”

“That is only another instance of what I assert—‘a gentleman born!’ you

can afford to do what we all do, because, by birth or by accident, you

find yourself in the very position in which we Swedes are all placed by

the customs of our country.”

“That is all very true,” said the Parson; “for the amenities of life,

I grant your system is by far the best; men live happier and more

contentedly under it; and it certainly does produce a much more genial

and social intercourse among all classes, that men are dependent for

their dignity on something else than their wine merchant and their

pastry-cook. Still, yours is not the condition of progress; your people

live content, perhaps happy, in their fixed position; but every man of

ours, who is working for his daily dignity, as the Captain calls it,

is, in a very unpleasant and uncomfortable manner, pressing onward and

improving his own condition. Now, that nation in which every man is

continually excited to improve his condition, is nationally progressive;

that, in which every man is content in his own place, is nationally

stationary. I do not say which is the best principle, only, there is

something to be said on the other side. One thing is certain, our

principle is not the same as yours; and it is excusable, when we do

borrow from the continent, if we make a generous blunder in a science

which we do not understand, and in the largeness of our heart, give

medals to runaway Belgians, without remembering that the honour of

the medal lies not in the silver, but in the action which the silver

commemorates, and that, in truth, what we have given to the cowards who

ran, we must have filched from the brave fellows who had earned for that

medal its value.”

“So far, at all events, you are right,” said Birger, “that your nation

does not understand the science of decorations any more than ours. You

helped to spoil your own Waterloo medal much more than ever the Belgians

spoiled it, and that not altogether from your largeness of heart. If I

had been a pink-faced ensign of that day, I should have been ashamed to

wear my medal in the presence of a Peninsular veteran, who had done five

hundred times as much as I. It was a better feeling than that of being

ranked with the Belgians that made your people shy of their Waterloo

medals. And now that you begin to distribute your decorations, you do

not know how to do it: first of all you give it for any little trumpery

affair, like sticking those Chinese pigs, and then you give it to all who

have seen the smoke of the gunpowder.”

“We presume that every one present does his duty, and that none can do

more,” said the Captain.

“A very pretty poetical fiction,” said Birger, “pity that it is a

fiction. However, one thing is certain—that will never be prized that is

shared by all alike; you see that at once in our case—it is equally true

in you own.”

Just then the Stockholm steamer, _Daniel Thunberg_, hove in sight, with

her light blue pennant of smoke, so unlike the black volumes that roll

from the chimneys of coal-burning Englishmen.

“They have got something on board for us,” said Moodie; “that calico

concern on her foremast is their best Swedish imitation of our English

jack, and they always hoist it whenever they have got a letter or

parcel for me. There goes a gun; those rascals are always glad of any

opportunity for making a bang. Hallo, there! Nils!” continued he, in

Swedish, to the master of his yacht, who had gone to sleep against the

heel of the bowsprit, with his pipe in his mouth; “answer that signal,

and send a boat on board the steamer.”

He spoke as if he had a frigate’s crew at his command. Nils started

up, and as he happened, at that moment at least, to be the captain and

the whole ship’s company in his own person, he proceeded to obey both

orders personally—in a few minutes was alongside the gay little craft,

and returned with a letter, the writer of which, to judge from the

superscription he placed upon it, must have considered Moodie a very

great man indeed, so many titles did he prefix to his name—High-born and

Illustrious were the very least of them.

Moodie, a little afraid of the Captain’s satire—though the direction,

after all, was nothing more than the ordinary Swedish form in which

one gentleman addresses another, and quite as appropriate as our much

mis-used esquire,—crumpled up the envelope in great haste.

“Hurrah!” said he, flourishing the letter over his head, “this is the

very thing for us—you are in high luck; look here.”

“What is it?” said the Captain, for the letter, which was in Swedish and

written in the Swedish character, might as well have been Cyrillic or

Uncial, for anything he could make out of it.

“Why, there is to be a skal in Wermeland, next Tuesday; a grand bear

hunt, in which they drive twenty or thirty miles of country; this letter

is from the very man I have been speaking of—Bjornstjerna, the Ofwer

Jagmästere, and my own particular friend. Some half dozen respectable

farmers have made oath to him that they have been annoyed by bears, and

he tells me he has written to the præster of the neighbourhood, to give

notice from their pulpits, and to turn out the whole country. That is the

legal form on such occasions, and there is a heavy fine for any man who

does not obey it.”

“Hurrah!” said the Captain, in his turn, “then we shall kill a bear at

last.”

“That you will,” said Moodie; “Bjornstjerna knows his business as well

as any man in Sweden; there are people who fancy his patronymic a

nick-name[47] of his own earning. He would not be turning out the country

for nothing, you may depend on it.”

“Where is this to take place?”

“Why, in Upper Wermeland, as I told you, near Lysvic, not very far from

the banks of the Klara, a river I know well, as full of grayling as it

can hold; not that that has much to do with bear hunting. It is not above

a hundred and fifty or two hundred miles from this.”

“Quite in the neighbourhood,” said the Captain, laughing.

“O that is nothing, we never mind a hundred miles or so. If we get

anything like a breeze, we will run across the Wener, in the yacht, we

can send the carioles on by land to Amal, and we will pick up a waggon,

or something, for the men, at there or at Carlstad; and then you will

see how we will rattle up the country. We must send a boat, though, to

Wenersborg this very night, and tell the post-master to make out a forbud

for us; it will not do to trust to chance on such an occasion as this,

for we shall have to collect a good many horses at every station. Let me

see, we shall want one for each of us, and three for the waggon, that

will make seven; and I suppose they will charge half a horse more besides

the forbud; for we shall have four men with us, and we must take things

enough to make us comfortable, for I dare say we shall have a week in

the forest, one way or the other. Come, finish that bottle, and we will

go in and have some coffee; it is not so well to stay out here at night

when that blue mist is hanging on the swamp; besides, these rascally

musquitoes are anything but pleasant.”

Forest Scenes in Norway and Sweden: Being Extracts from the Journal of a Fisherman · 第 19 / 29 章