FROM FLAG TO FLAG
_A WOMAN’S ADVENTURES AND EXPERIENCES
IN THE SOUTH DURING THE WAR,
IN MEXICO AND IN CUBA_
BY
ELIZA McHATTON-RIPLEY
“Faith! I ran when I saw others run.”--I HENRY IV.
“See here, my friends and loving countrymen;
This token serveth for a flag of truce
Betwixt ourselves.”--I HENRY IV.
NEW YORK
D. APPLETON AND COMPANY
1889
COPYRIGHT, 1888,
BY D. APPLETON AND COMPANY.
NOTE.
The years covered by this narrative were full of stirring interest.
Civil war in the United States put the nation under arms from the
St. Lawrence to the Rio Grande, and shattered the entire social and
political fabric of the South. Mexico was conquered by the French,
who, in time, were driven from the country, and the improbability of
any European power obtaining a foothold there forever settled. A large
portion of the Island of Cuba was for years under the control of the
insurgents; and, not until a sea of blood and millions of treasure had
been poured out, was a semblance of peace secured.
The minor part I bore in these exciting times has been a thrice-told
tale at my fireside; and, believing the unfamiliar pictures of life,
varied incidents, and historical facts worthy of record, I have written
why, and how, we ran “from flag to flag.”
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER PAGE
I. A PLANTATION HOME IN LOUISIANA 7
II. THE NEW FLAG--CAMPAIGN SEWING SOCIETY--CAPTURE
OF NEW ORLEANS 10
III. A CREVASSE--OCCUPATION OF BATON ROUGE--DEFENSELESS
CITIZENS 19
IV. WILLY’S ERRAND--BRECKINRIDGE’S MESSAGE--THE RAW
RECRUITS 27
V. THE BATTLE--RUSH TO ARLINGTON--DISASTER--DEPARTURE
OF OUR GUESTS 33
VI. RESTORING ORDER--SCENES OF VANDALISM--PREPARATIONS
FOR DEPARTURE 42
VII. SECOND VISIT OF THE ENEMY--MIDNIGHT FLIGHT--FAREWELL
TO ARLINGTON 53
VIII. “PICKETS DOWN DAR!”--HARD JOURNEYING--WILLY’S
FATE--CHARLOTTE 60
IX. CAMPING BY NIGHT--FORLORN WOMEN--BEAUMONT--HOUSTON 66
X. TRAVELING THROUGH TEXAS--NEARING THE RIO GRANDE 76
XI. LAREDO--MEXICAN ESCORT TO PIEDRAS NEGRAS--THE
CUSTOM-HOUSE--A NORTHER--SAN ANTONIO--SCARCITY
OF NECESSARIES 83
XII. FINAL TRIP TO THE RIO GRANDE--MATAMORAS OCCUPIED
BY THE FRENCH--WAITING!--MARTHA BEFORE THE ALCALDE--WAR
OVER! 104
XIII. HAVANA--HÔTEL CUBANO--OUR HOME ON THE CERRO 125
XIV. STREET SIGHTS AND SOUNDS--EVENINGS IN THE CITY--SHOPS
AND SHOPPING--BEGGARS--VACCINATION 134
XV. A POLYGLOT--ZELL--BEATRIZ’S SCHOOL--IGNORANT GUAJIROS 142
XVI. PLANTATION PURCHASED--LIFE AT “DESENGAÑO”--AT
WORK ONCE MORE 149
XVII. RAINY SEASON--CULTIVATING ABANDONED FIELDS--DON
FULGENCIO’S MODE--FIRST SUMMER AT DESENGAÑO--BOOKS 156
XVIII. MORE LABORERS REQUIRED--HENRY SHOOTS WILD DOGS--MILITARY
RULE--EXTORTION 165
XIX. NEW CHINESE--COOLIE REBELLION--ZELL’S BRAVERY--CHINESE
LABOR CONTRACT--VICIOUS INSECTS 170
XX. CIRIACO--PLANTATION GARDEN--TASAJO--NEGRO MUSIC
AND DANCING 183
XXI. THE GOOD OLD PRIEST--RELIGION AND SUPERSTITION
OF THE NEGROES--THE SEÑORA’S GHOST 190
XXII. CATTLE--BUTTER AND CHURN--OVERRUN WITH CATS--CURIOUS
VOLCANO--MAJA AND JUTIA 197
XXIII. HARASSED BY THE MILITARY--LAWLESS SITUATION--MEN
DRIVEN TO THE MOUNTAINS--RESTRICTED
WALKS 205
XXIV. MURDEROUS ASSAULT--COMPLAINTS TO THE CAPTAIN-GENERAL--CARLOS
GARCIA 210
XXV. “BEHOLD A MAN FULL OF LEPROSY!” 222
XXVI. SUGAR-MAKING--DINNER AT “JOSEFITA’S”--DOMESTIC
SERVICE--POOR DON PEDRO 227
XXVII. A PARADISE--A GUAJIRO BALL--OUR NEIGHBORS--A
DAY WITH THE MARQUIS 234
XXVIII. FERTILITY OF THE SOIL--WORK DURING SUGAR-MAKING--FIRE
IN THE CANE-FIELDS 253
XXIX. DON RUANO’S COFFEE ESTATE--COFFEE-MILLS AND COFFEE-POTS--WASTE
OF FRUITS--DON RUANO AND HIS
MOTHER 263
XXX. HOUSE-BUILDING ANTS--ELLIE’S YOUNG OWLS--HENRY
SAYS “ADIOS” 270
XXXI. BEAUTIFUL OCTOBER--VIEW FROM THE MOUNTAIN--TERRIBLE
TEMPORAL--DEVASTATION 277
XXXII. DULLNESS--ISOLATION--WEARINESS--CUBA, FAREWELL! 288
FROM FLAG TO FLAG.
CHAPTER I.
A PLANTATION HOME IN LOUISIANA.
A spacious mansion, with deep verandas supported by fluted columns,
so closely following the architectural features of the historic Lee
homestead on the Potomac as to give the name of “Arlington” to the
plantation, was the home of my early married life.
The house faced a broad lawn, dotted here and there with live-oak
and pecan trees. An avenue, over which the “pride-of-China” trees
cast their shade, and beside which the Cherokee rose grew with great
luxuriance, led to the river-bank, and commanded a magnificent view of
the Mississippi for many miles above and below.
To this house, with all its attractive appointments, I came a bride,
and from this home I took a hurried departure a decade later. Time has
not dimmed the memory of those years; on the contrary, it has added to
their radiant brightness.
Turning back a quarter of a century, I see a picture of peace,
happiness, and the loveliest surroundings. In those spring days at
Arlington the air was so pure and fragrant that its inhalation was a
positive luxury. It was delightful to wander over the lawn, with its
fresh carpet of green, and note the wonderful growth of vegetation
on every side. The roses that arched the gateways, the honeysuckles
and jasmines that climbed in profusion over the trellises, the
delicate-foliaged crape myrtle with its wealth of fairy pink blossoms,
all contributed perfume to the breeze.
Those grand autumnal days, when smoke rolled from the tall chimney of
the sugar-house, and the air was redolent with the aroma of boiling
cane-juice; when the fields were dotted with groups of busy and
contented slaves, and their cabins resounded with the merry voices of
playing children; when magnolia and oak trees were musical with the
mocking-birds, whose throats poured forth melodies unknown to any other
of the feathered tribe, and nimble squirrels gathered their winter
stores in the pecan-groves--oh, those grand autumnal days!
Those Christmas-days, when the house was filled with gay throngs of
city guests, and the broad halls resounded with merry laugh and romp;
when the “plantation band,” with the inspiring airs of “Monie Musk”
and “Come, haste to the Wedding,” put wings to the giddy feet--how the
happy moments fled! oh, the jolly days, when we danced the hours away!