CHAPTER XII.[41] THE BUFFALO.

The ancient range of the buffalo, according to history and tradition,

once extended from the Alleghanies to the Rocky Mountains, embracing

all that magnificent portion of North America known as the Mississippi

valley; from the frozen lakes above to the "Tierras Calientes" of

Mexico, far to the south.

It seems impossible, especially to those who have seen them, as

numerous, apparently, as the sands of the seashore, feeding on the

illimitable natural pastures of the great plains, that the buffalo

should have become almost extinct.

When I look back only twenty-five years, and recall the fact that they

roamed in immense numbers even then, as far east as Fort Harker, in

Central Kansas, a little more than two hundred miles from the Missouri

River, I ask myself, "Have they all disappeared?"

An idea may be formed of how many buffalo were killed from 1868 to

1881, a period of only thirteen years, during which time they were

indiscriminately slaughtered for their hides. In Kansas alone there was

paid out, between the dates specified, two million five hundred thousand

dollars for their bones gathered on the prairies, to be utilized by

the various carbon works of the country, principally in St. Louis. It

required about one hundred carcasses to make one ton of bones, the price

paid averaging eight dollars a ton; so the above-quoted enormous sum

represented the skeletons of over thirty-one millions of buffalo.[42]

These figures may appear preposterous to readers not familiar with the

great plains a third of a century ago; but to those who have seen the

prairie black from horizon to horizon with the shaggy monsters, they

are not so. In the autumn of 1868 I rode with Generals Sheridan, Custer,

Sully, and others, for three consecutive days, through one continuous

herd, which must have contained millions. In the spring of 1869 the

train on the Kansas Pacific Railroad was delayed at a point between

Forts Harker and Hays, from nine o'clock in the morning until five

in the afternoon, in consequence of the passage of an immense herd of

buffalo across the track. On each side of us, and to the west as far as

we could see, our vision was only limited by the extended horizon of the

flat prairie, and the whole vast area was black with the surging mass of

affrighted buffaloes as they rushed onward to the south.

In 1868 the Union Pacific Railroad and its branch in Kansas was nearly

completed across the plains to the foothills of the Rocky Mountains,

the western limit of the buffalo range, and that year witnessed the

beginning of the wholesale and wanton slaughter of the great ruminants,

which ended only with their practical extinction seventeen years

afterward. The causes of this hecatomb of animals on the great plains

were the incursion of regular hunters into the region, for the hides of

the buffalo, and the crowds of tourists who crossed the continent for

the mere pleasure and novelty of the trip. The latter class heartlessly

killed for the excitement of the new experience as they rode along in

the cars at a low rate of speed, often never touching a particle of the

flesh of their victims, or possessing themselves of a single robe. The

former, numbering hundreds of old frontiersmen, all expert shots, with

thousands of novices, the pioneer settlers on the public domain, just

opened under the various land laws, from beyond the Platte to far south

of the Arkansas, within transporting distance of two railroads, day

after day for years made it a lucrative business to kill for the robes

alone, a market for which had suddenly sprung up all over the country.

On either side of the track of the two lines of railroads running

through Kansas and Nebraska, within a relatively short distance and for

nearly their whole length, the most conspicuous objects in those

days were the desiccated carcasses of the noble beasts that had been

ruthlessly slaughtered by the thoughtless and excited passengers on

their way across the continent. On the open prairie, too, miles away

from the course of legitimate travel, in some places one could walk

all day on the dead bodies of the buffaloes killed by the hide-hunters,

without stepping off them to the ground.

The best robes, in their relation to thickness of fur and lustre, were

those taken during the winter months, particularly February, at which

period the maximum of density and beauty had been reached. Then,

notwithstanding the sudden and fitful variations of temperature incident

to our mid-continent climate, the old hunters were especially active,

and accepted unusual risks to procure as many of the coveted skins

as possible. A temporary camp would be established under the friendly

shelter of some timbered stream, from which the hunters would radiate

every morning, and return at night after an arduous day's work, to

smoke their pipes and relate their varied adventures around the fire of

blazing logs.

Sometimes when far away from camp a blizzard would come down from the

north in all its fury without ten minutes' warning, and in a few seconds

the air, full of blinding snow, precluded the possibility of finding

their shelter, an attempt at which would only result in an aimless

circular march on the prairie. On such occasions, to keep from perishing

by the intense cold, they would kill a buffalo, and, taking out its

viscera, creep inside the huge cavity, enough animal heat being retained

until the storm had sufficiently abated for them to proceed with safety

to their camp.

Early in March, 1867, a party of my friends, all old buffalo hunters,

were camped in Paradise valley, then a famous rendezvous of the animals

they were after. One day when out on the range stalking, and widely

separated from each other, a terrible blizzard came up. Three of the

hunters reached their camp without much difficulty, but he who was

farthest away was fairly caught in it, and night overtaking him, he was

compelled to resort to the method described in the preceding paragraph.

Luckily, he soon came up with a superannuated bull that had been

abandoned by the herd; so he killed him, took out his viscera and

crawled inside the empty carcass, where he lay comparatively comfortable

until morning broke, when the storm had passed over and the sun shone

brightly. But when he attempted to get out, he found himself a prisoner,

the immense ribs of the creature having frozen together, and locked him

up as tightly as if he were in a cell. Fortunately, his companions, who

were searching for him, and firing their rifles from time to time,

heard him yell in response to the discharge of their pieces, and thus

discovered and released him from the peculiar predicament into which he

had fallen.

At another time, several years before the acquisition of New Mexico by

the United States, two old trappers were far up on the Arkansas near the

Trail, in the foot-hills hunting buffalo, and they, as is generally the

case, became separated. In an hour or two one of them killed a fat young

cow, and, leaving his rifle on the ground, went up and commenced to skin

her. While busily engaged in his work, he suddenly heard right behind

him a suppressed snort, and looking around he saw to his dismay a

monstrous grizzly ambling along in that animal's characteristic gait,

within a few feet of him.

In front, only a few rods away, there happened to be a clump of scrubby

pines, and he incontinently made a break for them, climbing into the

tallest in less time than it takes to tell of it. The bear deliberately

ate a hearty meal off the juicy hams of the cow, so providentially

fallen in his way, and when he had satiated himself, instead of going

away, he quietly stretched himself alongside of the half-devoured

carcass, and went to sleep, keeping one eye open, however, on the

movements of the unlucky hunter whom he had corralled in the tree. In

the early evening his partner came to the spot, and killed the impudent

bear, that, being full of tender buffalo meat, was sluggish and unwary,

and thus became an easy victim to the unerring rifle; when the unwilling

prisoner came down from his perch in the pine, feeling sheepish enough.

The last time I saw him he told me he still had the bear's hide, which

he religiously preserved as a memento of his foolishness in separating

himself from his rifle, a thing he has never been guilty of before or

since.

Kit Carson, when with Fremont on his first exploring expedition, while

hunting for the command, at some point on the Arkansas, left a buffalo

which he had just killed and partly cut up, to pursue a large bull that

came rushing by him alone. He chased his game for nearly a quarter of a

mile, not being able, however, to gain on it rapidly, owing to the blown

condition of his horse. Coming up at length to the side of the fleeing

beast, Carson fired, but at the same instant his horse stepped into a

prairie-dog hole, fell down and threw Kit fully fifteen feet over his

head. The bullet struck the buffalo low under the shoulder, which only

served to enrage him so that the next moment the infuriated animal was

pursuing Kit, who, fortunately not much hurt, was able to run toward the

river. It was a race for life now, Carson using his nimble legs to

the utmost of their capacity, accelerated very much by the thundering,

bellowing bull bringing up the rear. For several minutes it was nip and

tuck which should reach the stream first, but Kit got there by a scratch

a little ahead. It was a big bend of the river, and the water was deep

under the bank, but it was paradise compared with the hades plunging at

his back; so Kit leaped into the water, trusting to Providence that the

bull would not follow. The trust was well placed, for the bull did

not continue the pursuit, but stood on the bank and shook his head

vehemently at the struggling hunter who had preferred deep waves to the

horns of a dilemma on shore.

Kit swam around for some time, carefully guarded by the bull, until

his position was observed by one of his companions, who attacked the

belligerent animal successfully with a forty-four slug, and then Kit

crawled out and--skinned the enemy!

He once killed five buffaloes during a single race, and used but four

balls, having dismounted and cut the bullet from the wound of the

fourth, and thus continued the chase. He it was, too, who established

his reputation as a famous hunter by shooting a buffalo cow during an

impetuous race down a steep hill, discharging his rifle just as the

animal was leaping on one of the low cedars peculiar to the region.

The ball struck a vital spot, and the dead cow remained in the jagged

branches. The Indians who were with him on that hunt looked upon the

circumstance as something beyond their comprehension, and insisted that

Kit should leave the carcass in the tree as "Big Medicine." Katzatoa

(Smoked Shield), a celebrated chief of the Kiowas many years ago,

who was over seven feet tall, never mounted a horse when hunting the

buffalo; he always ran after them on foot and killed them with his

lance.

Two Lance, another famous chief, could shoot an arrow entirely through a

buffalo while hunting on horseback. He accomplished this remarkable feat

in the presence of the Grand Duke Alexis of Russia, who was under the

care of Buffalo Bill, near Fort Hays, Kansas.

During one of Fremont's expeditions, two of his chasseurs, named

Archambeaux and La Jeunesse,[43] had a curious adventure on a

buffalo-hunt. One of them was mounted on a mule, the other on a horse;

they came in sight of a large band of buffalo feeding upon the open

prairie about a mile distant. The mule was not fleet enough, and the

horse was too much fatigued with the day's journey, to justify a

race, and they concluded to approach the herd on foot. Dismounting and

securing the ends of their lariats in the ground, they made a slight

detour, to take advantage of the wind, and crept stealthily in the

direction of the game, approaching unperceived until within a few

hundred yards. Some old bulls forming the outer picket guard slowly

raised their heads and gazed long and dubiously at the strange objects,

when, discovering that the intruders were not wolves, but two hunters,

they gave a significant grunt, turned about as though on pivots, and in

less than no time the whole herd--bulls, cows, and calves--were making

the gravel fly over the prairie in fine style, leaving the hunters to

their discomfiture. They had scarcely recovered from their surprise,

when, to their great consternation, they beheld the whole company of

the monsters, numbering several thousand, suddenly shape their course

to where the riding animals were picketed. The charge of the stampeded

buffalo was a magnificent one; for the buffalo, mistaking the horse

and the mule for two of their own species, came down upon them like a

tornado. A small cloud of dust arose for a moment over the spot where

the hunter's animals had been left; the black mass moved on with

accelerated speed, and in a few seconds the horizon shut them all from

view. The horse and mule, with all their trappings, saddles, bridles,

and holsters, were never seen or heard of afterward.

Buffalo Bill, in less than eighteen months, while employed as hunter

of the construction company of the Kansas Pacific Railroad, in 1867-68,

killed nearly five thousand buffalo, which were consumed by the twelve

hundred men employed in track-laying. He tells in his autobiography

of the following remarkable experience he had at one time with his

favourite horse Brigham, on an impromptu buffalo hunt:--

One day we were pushed for horses to work on our scrapers,

so I hitched up Brigham, to see how he would work. He was

not much used to that kind of labour, and I was about giving

up the idea of making a work horse of him, when one of the

men called to me that there were some buffaloes coming over

the hill. As there had been no buffaloes seen anywhere

in the vicinity of the camp for several days, we had become

rather short of meat. I immediately told one of our men

to hitch his horses to a wagon and follow me, as I was going

out after the herd, and we would bring back some fresh meat

for supper. I had no saddle, as mine had been left at camp

a mile distant, so taking the harness from Brigham I mounted

him bareback, and started out after the game, being armed

with my celebrated buffalo killer Lucretia Borgia--a newly

improved breech-loading needle-gun, which I had obtained

from the government.

While I was riding toward the buffaloes, I observed five

horsemen coming out from the fort, who had evidently seen

the buffaloes from the post, and were going out for a chase.

They proved to be some newly arrived officers in that part

of the country, and when they came up closer I could see

by the shoulder-straps that the senior was a captain,

while the others were lieutenants.

"Hello! my friend," sang out the captain; "I see you are

after the same game we are."

"Yes, sir; I saw those buffaloes coming over the hill,

and as we were about out of fresh meat I thought I would

go and get some," said I.

They scanned my cheap-looking outfit pretty closely, and

as my horse was not very prepossessing in appearance, having

on only a blind bridle, and otherwise looking like a work

horse, they evidently considered me a green hand at hunting.

"Do you expect to catch those buffaloes on that Gothic

steed?" laughingly asked the captain.

"I hope so, by pushing on the reins hard enough," was

my reply.

"You'll never catch them in the world, my fine fellow,"

said the captain. "It requires a fast horse to overtake

the animals on the prairie."

"Does it?" asked I, as if I didn't know it.

"Yes; but come along with us, as we are going to kill them

more for pleasure than anything else. All we want are the

tongues and a piece of tenderloin, and you may have all

that is left," said the generous man.

"I am much obliged to you, captain, and will follow you,"

I replied.

There were eleven buffaloes in the herd, and they were not

more than a mile ahead of us. The officers dashed on as if

they had a sure thing on killing them all before I could

come up with them; but I had noticed that the herd was

making toward the creek for water, and as I knew buffalo

nature, I was perfectly aware that it would be difficult

to turn them from their direct course. Thereupon, I started

toward the creek to head them off, while the officers

came up in the rear and gave chase.

The buffaloes came rushing past me not a hundred yards

distant, with the officers about three hundred yards in

the rear. Now, thought I, is the time to "get my work in,"

as they say; and I pulled off the blind bridle from my

horse, who knew as well as I did that we were out after

buffaloes, as he was a trained hunter. The moment the

bridle was off he started at the top of his speed, running

in ahead of the officers, and with a few jumps he brought me

alongside the rear buffalo. Raising old Lucretia Borgia

to my shoulder, I fired, and killed the animal at the

first shot. My horse then carried me alongside the next

one, not ten feet away, and I dropped him at the next fire.

As soon as one of the buffalo would fall, Brigham would

take me so close to the next that I could almost touch it

with my gun. In this manner I killed the eleven buffaloes

with twelve shots; and as the last animal dropped, my horse

stopped. I jumped off to the ground, knowing that he would

not leave me--it must be remembered that I had been riding

him without bridle, reins, or saddle--and, turning around

as the party of astonished officers rode up, I said to them:--

"Now, gentlemen, allow me to present to you all the tongues

and tenderloins you wish from these buffaloes."

Captain Graham, for such I soon learned was his name,

replied: "Well, I never saw the like before. Who under

the sun are you, anyhow?"

"My name is Cody," said I.

Captain Graham, who was considerable of a horseman,

greatly admired Brigham, and said: "That horse of yours

has running points."

"Yes, sir; he has not only got the points, he is a runner

and knows how to use the points," said I.

"So I noticed," said the captain.

They all finally dismounted, and we continued chatting

for some little time upon the different subjects of horses,

buffaloes, hunting, and Indians. They felt a little sore

at not getting a single shot at the buffaloes; but the way

I had killed them, they said, amply repaid them for their

disappointment. They had read of such feats in books,

but this was the first time they had ever seen anything

of the kind with their own eyes. It was the first time,

also, that they had ever witnessed or heard of a white man

running buffaloes on horseback without a saddle or bridle.

I told them that Brigham knew nearly as much about the

business as I did, and if I had twenty bridles they would

have been of no use to me, as he understood everything,

and all that he expected of me was to do the shooting.

It is a fact that Brigham would stop if a buffalo did not

fall at the first fire, so as to give me a second chance;

but if I did not kill the animal then, he would go on, as

if to say, "You are no good, and I will not fool away my

time by giving you more than two shots." Brigham was the

best horse I ever saw or owned for buffalo chasing.

At one time an old, experienced buffalo hunter was following at the

heels of a small herd with that reckless rush to which in the excitement

of the chase men abandon themselves, when a great bull just in front of

him tumbled into a ravine. The rider's horse fell also, throwing the old

hunter over his head sprawling, but with strange accuracy right between

the bull's horns! The first to recover from the terrible shock and to

regain his legs was the horse, which ran off with wonderful alacrity

several miles before he stopped. Next the bull rose, and shook himself

with an astonished air, as if he would like to know "how that was done?"

The hunter was on the great brute's back, who, perhaps, took the affair

as a good practical joke; but he was soon pitched to the ground, as the

buffalo commenced to jump "stiff-legged," and the latter, giving the

hunter one lingering look, which he long remembered, with remarkable

good nature ran off to join his companions. Had the bull been wounded,

the rider would have been killed, as the then enraged animal would have

gored and trampled him to death.

An officer of the old regular army told me many years ago that in

crossing the plains a herd of buffalo were fired at by a twelve-pound

howitzer, the ball of which wounded and stunned an immense bull.

Nevertheless, heedless of a hundred shots that had been fired at him,

and of a bulldog belonging to one of the officers, which had fastened

himself to his lips, the enraged beast charged upon the whole troop of

dragoons, and tossed one of the horses like a feather. Bull, horse, and

rider all fell in a heap. Before the dust cleared away, the trooper,

who had hung for a moment to one of the bull's horns by his waistband,

crawled out safe, while the horse got a ball from a rifle through his

neck while in the air and two great rips in his flank from the bull.

In 1839 Kit Carson and Hobbs were trapping with a party on the Arkansas

River, not far from Bent's Fort. Among the trappers was a green

Irishman, named O'Neil, who was quite anxious to become proficient in

hunting, and it was not long before he received his first lesson. Every

man who went out of camp after game was expected to bring in "meat" of

some kind. O'Neil said that he would agree to the terms, and was ready

one evening to start out on his first hunt alone. He picked up his rifle

and stalked after a small herd of buffalo in plain sight on the prairie

not more than five or six hundred yards from camp.

All the trappers who were not engaged in setting their traps or cooking

supper were watching O'Neil. Presently they heard the report of his

rifle, and shortly after he came running into camp, bareheaded, without

his gun, and with a buffalo bull close upon his heels; both going at

full speed, and the Irishman shouting like a madman,--

"Here we come, by jabers. Stop us! For the love of God, stop us!"

Just as they came in among the tents, with the bull not more than six

feet in the rear of O'Neil, who was frightened out of his wits and

puffing like a locomotive, his foot caught in a tent-rope, and over

he went into a puddle of water head foremost, and in his fall capsized

several camp-kettles, some of which contained the trappers' supper. But

the buffalo did not escape so easily; for Hobbs and Kit Carson jumped

for their rifles, and dropped the animal before he had done any further

damage.

The whole outfit laughed heartily at O'Neil when he got up out of the

water, for a party of old trappers would show no mercy to any of their

companions who met with a mishap of that character; but as he stood

there with dripping clothes and face covered with mud, his mother-wit

came to his relief and he declared he had accomplished the hunter's

task: "For sure," said he, "haven't I fetched the mate into camp? and

there was no bargain whether it should be dead or alive!"

Upon Kit's asking O'Neil where his gun was,--

"Sure," said he, "that's more than I can tell you."

Next morning Carson and Hobbs took up O'Neil's tracks and the buffalo's,

and after hunting an hour or so found the Irishman's rifle, though he

had little use for it afterward, as he preferred to cook and help around

camp rather than expose his precious life fighting buffaloes.

A great herd of buffaloes on the plains in the early days, when one

could approach near enough without disturbing it to quietly watch its

organization and the apparent discipline which its leaders seemed to

exact, was a very curious sight. Among the striking features of the

spectacle was the apparently uniform manner in which the immense mass of

shaggy animals moved; there was constancy of action indicating a degree

of intelligence to be found only in the most intelligent of the brute

creation. Frequently the single herd was broken up into many smaller

ones, that travelled relatively close together, each led by an

independent master. Perhaps a few rods only marked the dividing-line

between them, but it was always unmistakably plain, and each moved

synchronously in the direction in which all were going.

The leadership of a herd was attained only by hard struggles for the

place; once reached, however, the victor was immediately recognized, and

kept his authority until some new aspirant overcame him, or he became

superannuated and was driven out of the herd to meet his inevitable

fate, a prey to those ghouls of the desert, the gray wolves.

In the event of a stampede, every animal of the separate, yet

consolidated, herds rushed off together, as if they had all gone mad at

once; for the buffalo, like the Texas steer, mule, or domestic

horse, stampedes on the slightest provocation; frequently without any

assignable cause. The simplest affair, sometimes, will start the whole

herd; a prairie-dog barking at the entrance to his burrow, a shadow of

one of themselves or that of a passing cloud, is sufficient to make them

run for miles as if a real and dangerous enemy were at their heels.

Like an army, a herd of buffaloes put out vedettes to give the alarm in

case anything beyond the ordinary occurred. These sentinels were always

to be seen in groups of four, five, or even six, at some distance from

the main body. When they perceived something approaching that the herd

should beware of or get away from, they started on a run directly for

the centre of the great mass of their peacefully grazing congeners.

Meanwhile, the young bulls were on duty as sentinels on the edge of

the main herd watching the vedettes; the moment the latter made for the

centre, the former raised their heads, and in the peculiar manner of

their species gazed all around and sniffed the air as if they could

smell both the direction and source of the impending danger. Should

there be something which their instinct told them to guard against, the

leader took his position in front, the cows and calves crowded in the

centre, while the rest of the males gathered on the flanks and in the

rear, indicating a gallantry that might be emulated at times by the

genus homo.

Generally buffalo went to their drinking-places but once a day, and that

late in the afternoon. Then they ambled along, following each other in

single file, which accounts for the many trails on the plains, always

ending at some stream or lake. They frequently travelled twenty or

thirty miles for water, so the trails leading to it were often worn to

the depth of a foot or more.

That curious depression so frequently seen on the great plains, called

a buffalo-wallow, is caused in this wise: The huge animals paw and lick

the salty, alkaline earth, and when once the sod is broken the loose

dirt drifts away under the constant action of the wind. Then, year

after year, through more pawing, licking, rolling, and wallowing by

the animals, the wind wafts more of the soil away, and soon there is a

considerable hole in the prairie.

Many an old trapper and hunter's life has been saved by following a

buffalo-trail when he was suffering from thirst. The buffalo-wallows

retain usually a great quantity of water, and they have often saved the

lives of whole companies of cavalry, both men and horses.

There was, however, a stranger and more wonderful spectacle to be seen

every recurring spring during the reign of the buffalo, soon after

the grass had started. There were circles trodden bare on the plains,

thousands, yes, millions of them, which the early travellers, who did

not divine their cause, called fairy-rings. From the first of April

until the middle of May was the wet season; you could depend upon its

recurrence almost as certainly as on the sun and moon rising at their

proper time. This was also the calving period of the buffalo, as

they, unlike our domestic cattle, only rutted during a single month;

consequently, the cows all calved during a certain time; this was the

wet month, and as there were a great many gray wolves that roamed singly

and in immense packs over the whole prairie region, the bulls, in their

regular beats, kept guard over the cows while in the act of parturition,

and drove the wolves away, walking in a ring around the females at a

short distance, and thus forming the curious circles.

In every herd at each recurring season there were always ambitious young

bulls that came to their majority, so to speak, and these were ever

ready to test their claims for the leadership, so that it may be safely

stated that a month rarely passed without a bloody battle between them

for the supremacy; though, strangely enough, the struggle scarcely ever

resulted in the death of either combatant.

Perhaps there is no animal in which maternal love is so wonderfully

developed as the buffalo cow; she is as dangerous with a calf by her

side as a she-grizzly with cubs, as all old mountaineers know.

The buffalo bull that has outlived his usefulness is one of the most

pitiable objects in the whole range of natural history. Old age has

probably been decided in the economy of buffalo life as the unpardonable

sin. Abandoned to his fate, he may be discovered, in his dreary

isolation, near some stream or lake, where it does not tax him too

severely to find good grass; for he is now feeble, and exertion an

impossibility. In this new stage of his existence he seems to have

completely lost his courage. Frightened at his own shadow, or the

rustling of a leaf, he is the very incarnation of nervousness and

suspicion. Gregarious in his habits from birth, solitude, foreign to

his whole nature, has changed him into a new creature; and his inherent

terror of the most trivial things is intensified to such a degree

that if a man were compelled to undergo such constant alarm, it would

probably drive him insane in less than a week. Nobody ever saw one of

these miserable and helplessly forlorn creatures dying a natural death,

or ever heard of such an occurrence. The cowardly coyote and the gray

wolf had already marked him for their own; and they rarely missed their

calculations.

Riding suddenly to the top of a divide once with a party of friends in

1866, we saw standing below us in the valley an old buffalo bull, the

very picture of despair. Surrounding him were seven gray wolves in the

act of challenging him to mortal combat. The poor beast, undoubtedly

realizing the utter hopelessness of his situation, had determined to

die game. His great shaggy head, filled with burrs, was lowered to the

ground as he confronted his would-be executioners; his tongue, black and

parched, lolled out of his mouth, and he gave utterance at intervals to

a suppressed roar.

The wolves were sitting on their haunches in a semi-circle immediately

in front of the tortured beast, and every time that the fear-stricken

buffalo would give vent to his hoarsely modulated groan, the wolves

howled in concert in most mournful cadence.

After contemplating his antagonists for a few moments, the bull made a

dash at the nearest wolf, tumbling him howling over the silent prairie;

but while this diversion was going on in front, the remainder of the

pack started for his hind legs, to hamstring him. Upon this the poor

brute turned to the point of attack only to receive a repetition of it

in the same vulnerable place by the wolves, who had as quickly turned

also and fastened themselves on his heels again. His hind quarters

now streamed with blood and he began to show signs of great physical

weakness. He did not dare to lie down; that would have been instantly

fatal. By this time he had killed three of the wolves or so maimed them

that they were entirely out of the fight.

At this juncture the suffering animal was mercifully shot, and the

wolves allowed to batten on his thin and tough carcass.

Often there are serious results growing out of a stampede, either

by mules or a herd of buffalo. A portion of the Fifth United States

Infantry had a narrow escape from a buffalo stampede on the Old Trail,

in the early summer of 1866. General George A. Sykes, who commanded the

Division of Regulars in the Army of the Potomac during the Civil War,

was ordered to join his regiment, stationed in New Mexico, and was

conducting a body of recruits, with their complement of officers,

to fill up the decimated ranks of the army stationed at the various

military posts, in far-off Greaser Land.

The command numbered nearly eight hundred, including the subaltern

officers. These recruits, or the majority of them at least, were

recruits in name only; they had seen service in many a hard campaign of

the Rebellion. Some, of course, were beardless youths just out of their

teens, full of that martial ardour which induced so many young men of

the nation to follow the drum on the remote plains and in the fastnesses

of the Rocky Mountains, where the wily savages still held almost

undisputed sway, and were a constant menace to the pioneer settlers.

One morning, when the command had just settled itself in careless repose

on the short grass of the apparently interminable prairie at the first

halt of the day's march, a short distance beyond Fort Larned, a strange

noise, like the low muttering of thunder below the horizon, greeted the

ears of the little army.

All were startled by the ominous sound, unlike anything they had heard

before on their dreary tour. The general ordered his scouts out to learn

the cause; could it be Indians? Every eye was strained for something out

of the ordinary. Even the horses of the officers and the mules of the

supply-train were infected by something that seemed impending; they grew

restless, stamped the earth, and vainly essayed to stampede, but were

prevented by their hobbles and picket-pins.

Presently one of the scouts returned from over the divide, and reported

to the general that an immense herd of buffalo was tearing down toward

the Trail, and from the great clouds of dust they raised, which obscured

the horizon, there must have been ten thousand of them. The roar wafted

to the command, and which seemed so mysterious, was made by their hoofs

as they rattled over the dry prairie.

The sound increased in volume rapidly, and soon a black, surging mass

was discovered bearing right down on the Trail. Behind it could be seen

a cavalcade of about five hundred Cheyennes, Comanches, and Kiowas, who

had maddened the shaggy brutes, hoping to capture the train without an

attack by forcing the frightened animals to overrun the command.

Luckily, something caused the herd to open before it reached the foot

of the divide, and it passed in two masses, leaving the command between,

not two hundred feet from either division of the infuriated beasts.

The rage of the savages was evident when they saw that their attempt to

annihilate the troops had failed, and they rode off sullenly into the

sand hills, as the number of soldiers was too great for them to think of

charging.

Cody tells of a buffalo stampede which he witnessed in his youth on

the plains, when he was a wagon-master. The caravan was on its way

with government stores for the military posts in the mountains, and the

wagons were hauled by oxen.

He says: The country was alive with buffalo, and besides killing

quite a number we had a rare day for sport. One morning

we pulled out of camp, and the train was strung out to a

considerable length along the Trail, which ran near the foot

of the sand hills, two miles from the river. Between the

road and the river we saw a large herd of buffalo grazing

quietly, they having been down to the stream to drink.

Just at this time we observed a party of returning

Californians coming from the west. They, too, noticed

the buffalo herd, and in another moment they were dashing

down upon them, urging their horses to their greatest speed.

The buffalo herd stampeded at once, and broke down the sides

of the hills; so hotly were they pursued by the hunters

that about five hundred of them rushed pell-mell through

our caravan, frightening both men and oxen. Some of the

wagons were turned clear around and many of the terrified

oxen attempted to run to the hills with the heavy wagons

attached to them. Others were turned around so short

that they broke the tongues off. Nearly all the teams

got entangled in their gearing and became wild and unruly,

so that the perplexed drivers were unable to manage them.

The buffalo, the cattle, and the men were soon running

in every direction, and the excitement upset everybody

and everything. Many of the oxen broke their yokes and

stampeded. One big buffalo bull became entangled in one

of the heavy wagon-chains, and it is a fact that in his

desperate efforts to free himself, he not only snapped

the strong chain in two, but broke the ox-yoke to which

it was attached, and the last seen of him he was running

toward the hills with it hanging from his horns.

Stampedes were a great source of profit to the Indians of the plains.

The Comanches were particularly expert and daring in this kind of

robbery. They even trained their horses to run from one point to another

in expectation of the coming of the trains. When a camp was made that

was nearly in range, they turned their trained animals loose, which at

once flew across the prairie, passing through the herd and penetrating

the very corrals of their victims. All of the picketed horses and mules

would endeavour to follow these decoys, and were invariably led right

into the haunts of the Indians, who easily secured them. Young horses

and mules were easily frightened; and, in the confusion which generally

ensued, great injury was frequently done to the runaways themselves.

At times when the herd was very large, the horses scattered over the

prairie and were irrevocably lost; and such as did not become wild fell

a prey to the wolves. That fate was very frequently the lot of stampeded

horses bred in the States, they not having been trained by a prairie

life to take care of themselves. Instead of stopping and bravely

fighting off the blood-thirsty beasts, they would run. Then the whole

pack were sure to leave the bolder animals and make for the runaways,

which they seldom failed to overtake and despatch.

On the Old Trail some years ago one of these stampedes occurred of a

band of government horses, in which were several valuable animals. It

was attended, however, with very little loss, through the courage and

great exertion of the men who had them in charge; many were recovered,

but none without having sustained injuries.

Hon. R. M. Wright, of Dodge City, Kansas, one of the pioneers in the

days of the Santa Fe trade, and in the settlement of the State, has had

many exciting experiences both with the savages of the great plains, and

the buffalo. In relation to the habits of the latter, no man is better

qualified to speak.

He was once owner of Fort Aubrey, a celebrated point on the Trail, but

was compelled to abandon it on account of constant persecution by the

Indians, or rather he was ordered to do so by the military authorities.

While occupying the once famous landmark, in connection with others, had

a contract to furnish hay to the government at Fort Lyon, seventy-five

miles further west. His journal, which he kindly placed at my disposal,

says:

While we were preparing to commence the work, a vast herd

of buffalo stampeded through our range one night, and

took off with them about half of our work cattle. The next

day a stage-driver and conductor on the Overland Route told

us they had seen a number of our oxen twenty-five miles east

of Aubrey, and this information gave me an idea in which

direction to hunt for the missing beasts. I immediately

started after them, while my partner took those that

remained and a few wagons and left with them for Fort Lyon.

Let me explain here that while the Indians were supposed to

be peaceable, small war-parties of young men, who could not

be controlled by their chiefs, were continually committing

depredations, and the main body of savages themselves were

very uneasy, and might be expected to break out any day.

In consequence of this unsettled state of affairs, there

had been a brisk movement among the United States troops

stationed at the various military posts, a large number of

whom were believed to be on the road from Denver to Fort Lyon.

I filled my saddle-bags with jerked buffalo, hardtack and

ground coffee, and took with me a belt of cartridges,

my rifle and six-shooter, a field-glass and my blankets,

prepared for any emergency. The first day out, I found a

few of the lost cattle, and placed them on the river-bottom,

which I continued to do as fast as I recovered them, for a

distance of about eighty-five miles down the Arkansas.

There I met a wagon-train, the drivers of which told me

that I would find several more of my oxen with a train

that had arrived at the Cimarron crossing the day before.

I came up with this train in eight or ten hours' travel

south of the river, got my cattle, and started next morning

for home.

I picked up those I had left on the Arkansas as I went

along, and after having made a very hard day's travel,

about sundown I concluded I would go into camp. I had

only fairly halted when the oxen began to drop down,

so completely tired out were they, as I believed. Just as

it was growing dark, I happened to look toward the west,

and I saw several fires on a big island, near what was

called "The Lone Tree," about a mile from where I had

determined to remain for the night.

Thinking the fires were those of the soldiers that I had

heard were on the road from Denver, and anticipating and

longing for a cup of good coffee, as I had had none for

five days, knowing, too, that the troops would be full of

news, I felt good and determined to go over to their camp.

The Arkansas was low, but the banks steep, with high,

rank grass growing to the very water's edge. I found

a buffalo-trail cut through the deep bank, narrow and

precipitous, and down this I went, arriving in a short time

within a little distance of my supposed soldiers' camp.

When I had reached the middle of another deep cut in the

bank, I looked across to the island, and, great Caesar!

saw a hundred little fires, around which an aggregation

of a thousand Indians were huddled!

I slid backwards off my horse, and by dint of great exertion,

worked him up the river-bank as quietly and quickly as

possible, then led him gently away out on the prairie.

My first impulse was not to go back to the cattle; but as

we needed them very badly, I concluded to return, put them

all on their feet, and light out mighty lively, without

making any noise. I started them, and, oh dear! I was

afraid to tread upon a weed, lest it would snap and bring

the Indians down on my trail. Until I had put several

miles between them and me, I could not rest easy for

a moment. Tired as I was, tired as were both my horse

and the cattle, I drove them twenty-five miles before

I halted. Then daylight was upon me. I was at what is

known as Chouteau's Island, a once famous place in the

days of the Old Santa Fe Trail.

Of course, I had to let the oxen and my horse rest and fill

themselves until the afternoon, and I lay down, and fell

asleep, but did not sleep long, as I thought it dangerous

to remain too near the cattle. I rose and walked up a big,

dry sand creek that opened into the river, and after I had

ascended it for a couple of miles, found the banks very

steep; in fact, they rose to a height of eighteen or twenty

feet, and were sharply cut up by narrow trails made by

the buffalo.

The whole face of the earth was covered by buffalo, and

they were slowly grazing toward the Arkansas. All at once

they became frightened at something, and stampeded pell-mell

toward the very spot on which I stood. I quickly ran into

one of the precipitous little paths and up on the prairie,

to see what had scared them. They were making the ground

fairly tremble as their mighty multitude came rushing on

at full speed, the sound of their hoofs resembling thunder,

but in a continuous peal. It appeared to me that they must

sweep everything in their path, and for my own preservation

I rushed under the creek-bank, but on they came like a

tornado, with one old bull in the lead. He held up a second

to descend the narrow trail, and when he had got about

halfway down I let him have it; I was only a few steps from

him and over he tumbled. I don't know why I killed him;

out of pure wantonness, I expect, or perhaps I thought

it would frighten the others back. Not so, however;

they only quickened their pace, and came dashing down in

great numbers. Dozens of them stumbled and fell over the

dead bull; others fell over them. The top of the bank

was fairly swarming with them; they leaped, pitched, and

rolled down. I crouched as close to the bank as possible,

but many of them just grazed my head, knocking the sand

and gravel in great streams down my neck; indeed I was

half buried before the herd had passed over. That old bull

was the last buffalo I ever shot wantonly, excepting once,

from an ambulance while riding on the Old Trail, to please

a distinguished Englishman, who had never seen one shot;

then I did it only after his most earnest persuasion.

One day a stage-driver named Frank Harris and myself started

out after buffalo; they were scarce, for a wonder, and

we were very hungry for fresh meat. The day was fine and

we rode a long way, expecting sooner or later a bunch would

jump up, but in the afternoon, having seen none, we gave

it up and started for the ranch. Of course, we didn't

care to save our ammunition, so shot it away at everything

in sight, skunks, rattlesnakes, prairie-dogs, and gophers,

until we had only a few loads left. Suddenly an old bull

jumped up that had been lying down in one of those

sugar-loaf-shaped sand hills, whose tops are hollowed out

by the action of the wind. Harris emptied his revolver

into him, and so did I; but the old fellow sullenly stood

still there on top of the sand hill, bleeding profusely

at the nose, and yet absolutely refusing to die, although

he would repeatedly stagger and nearly tumble over.

It was getting late and we couldn't wait on him, so Harris

said: "I will dismount, creep up behind him, and cut his

hamstrings with my butcher-knife." The bull having now

lain down, Harris commenced operations, but his movement

seemed to infuse new life into the old fellow; he jumped

to his feet, his head lowered in the attitude of fight,

and away he went around the outside of the top of the

sand hill! It was a perfect circus with one ring; Harris,

who was a tall, lanky fellow, took hold of the enraged

animal's tail as he rose to his feet, and in a moment his

legs were flying higher than his head, but he did not dare

let go of his hold on the bull's tail, and around and

around they went; it was his only show for life. I could

not assist him a particle, but had to sit and hold his horse,

and be judge of the fight. I really thought that old bull

would never weaken. Finally, however, the "ring" performance

began to show symptoms of fatigue; slower and slower the

actions of the bull grew, and at last Harris succeeded

in cutting his hamstrings and the poor beast went down.

Harris said afterward, when the danger was all over, that

the only thing he feared was that perhaps the bull's tail

would pull out, and if it did, he was well aware that he

was a goner. We brought his tongue, hump, and a hindquarter

to the ranch with us, and had a glorious feast and a big

laugh that night with the boys over the ridiculous adventure.

General Richard Irving Dodge, United States army, in his work on the big

game of America, says:

It is almost impossible for a civilized being to realize

the value to the plains Indian of the buffalo. It furnished

him with home, food, clothing, bedding, horse equipment--

almost everything.

From 1869 to 1873 I was stationed at various posts along

the Arkansas River. Early in spring, as soon as the dry

and apparently desert prairie had begun to change its coat

of dingy brown to one of palest green, the horizon would

begin to be dotted with buffalo, single or in groups of two

or three, forerunners of the coming herd. Thick and thicker,

and in large groups they come, until by the time the grass

is well up, the whole vast landscape appears a mass of

buffalo, some individuals feeding, others lying down, but

the herd slowly moving to the northward; of their number,

it was impossible to form a conjecture.

Determined as they are to pursue their journey northward,

yet they are exceedingly cautious and timid about it,

and on any alarm rush to the southward with all speed,

until that alarm is dissipated. Especially is this the case

when any unusual object appears in their rear, and so

utterly regardless of consequences are they, that an old

plainsman will not risk a wagon-train in such a herd,

where rising ground will permit those in front to get

a good view of their rear.

In May, 1871, I drove in a buggy from old Fort Zarah

to Fort Larned, on the Arkansas River. The distance is

thirty-four miles. At least twenty-five miles of that

distance was through an immense herd. The whole country

was one mass of buffalo, apparently, and it was only when

actually among them, that the seemingly solid body was

seen to be an agglomeration of countless herds of from

fifty to two hundred animals, separated from the surrounding

herds by a greater or less space, but still separated.

The road ran along the broad valley of the Arkansas.

Some miles from Zarah a low line of hills rises from the

plain on the right, gradually increasing in height and

approaching road and river, until they culminate in

Pawnee Rock.

So long as I was in the broad, level valley, the herds

sullenly got out of my way, and, turning, stared stupidly

at me, some within thirty or forty yards. When, however,

I had reached a point where the hills were no more than

a mile from the road, the buffalo on the crests, seeing an

unusual object in their rear, turned, stared an instant,

then started at full speed toward me, stampeding and

bringing with them the numberless herds through which

they passed, and pouring down on me, no longer separated

but compacted into one immense mass of plunging animals,

mad with fright, irresistible as an avalanche.

The situation was by no means pleasant. There was but

one hope of escape. My horse was, fortunately, a quiet

old beast, that had rushed with me into many a herd, and

been in at the death of many a buffalo. Reining him up,

I waited until the front of the mass was within fifty yards,

then, with a few well-directed shots, dropped some of

the leaders, split the herd and sent it off in two streams

to my right and left. When all had passed me, they stopped,

apparently satisfied, though thousands were yet within

reach of my rifle. After my servant had cut out the

tongues of the fallen, I proceeded on my journey, only to

have a similar experience within a mile or two, and this

occurred so often that I reached Fort Larned with twenty-six

tongues, representing the greatest number of buffalo that

I can blame myself with having murdered in one day.

Some years, as in 1871, the buffalo appeared to move

northward in one immense column, oftentimes from twenty

to fifty miles in width, and of unknown depth from front

to rear. Other years the northward journey was made

in several parallel columns moving at the same rate and

with their numerous flankers covering a width of a hundred

or more miles.

When the food in one locality fails, they go to another,

and toward fall, when the grass of the high prairies

becomes parched by the heat and drought, they gradually

work their way back to the south, concentrating on the

rich pastures of Texas and the Indian Territory, whence,

the same instinct acting on all, they are ready to start

together again on their northward march as soon as spring

starts the grass.

Old plainsmen and the Indians aver that the buffalo never

return south; that each year's herd was composed of animals

which had never made the journey before, and would never

make it again. All admit the northern migration, that

being too pronounced for any one to dispute, but refuse

to admit the southern migration. Thousands of young calves

were caught and killed every spring that were produced

during this migration, and accompanied the herd northward;

but because the buffalo did not return south in one vast

body as they went north, it was stoutly maintained that

they did not go south at all. The plainsman could give

no reasonable hypothesis of his "No-return theory" on which

to base the origin of the vast herds which yearly made

their march northward. The Indian was, however, equal

to the occasion. Every plains Indian firmly believed that

the buffalo were produced in countless numbers in a country

under ground; that every spring the surplus swarmed,

like bees from a hive, out of the immense cave-like opening

in the region of the great Llano Estacado, or Staked Plain

of Texas. In 1879 Stone Calf, a celebrated chief, assured

me that he knew exactly where the caves were, though he had

never seen them; that the good God had provided this

means for the constant supply of food for the Indian, and

however recklessly the white men might slaughter, they could

never exterminate them. When last I saw him, the old man

was beginning to waver in this belief, and feared that

the "Bad God" had shut the entrances, and that his tribe

must starve.

The old trappers and plainsmen themselves, even as early as the

beginning of the Santa Fe trade, noticed the gradual disappearance of

the buffalo, while they still existed in countless numbers. One veteran

French Canadian, an employee of the American Fur Company, way back in

the early '30's, used to mourn thus: "Mais, sacre! les Amarican, dey go

to de Missouri frontier, de buffalo he ron to de montaigne; de trappaire

wid his fusil, he follow to de Bayou Salade, he ron again. Dans les

Montaignes Espagnol, bang! bang! toute la journee, toute la journee, go

de sacre voleurs. De bison he leave, parceque les fusils scare im vara

moche, ici la de sem-sacre!"

The Old Santa Fe Trail: The Story of a Great Highway · 第 12 / 24 章