ACROSS NAVARRE
It must give some flavour of unreality to our impressions of the
Peninsula that we should not allude to the beggars until the ultimate
chapter of all. And our only excuse for our negligence will sound like
an aggravation of the error; for we hold that the Spanish beggar has
been much over-advertised and does not (on his merits) deserve any more
prominent place. The number of beggars in Spain varies directly in
proportion to the number of tourists. They are most persistent at
Búrgos; there is a moderate superfluity at Segóvia and Toledo: but in
the out-of-the-way districts there is only the fundamental residue, and
that (to speak frankly) we should be rather loth to spare.
"His honour the beggar, your brother"--the authorised official
beggar--is a gentleman. He is frequently distinguished by a badge, like
old Edie Ochiltree; and his resemblance to that worthy philosopher does
not terminate with the badge. He is seldom unduly importunate. He begs
"in God's name"; and when "in God's name" you implore him to excuse you,
he seems to resignedly argue that such an adjuration would never be
refused on insufficient grounds. His station is in the church porches;
but he sometimes goes stumping the _calles_, and breathing a
supplicating "_Ave Maria_" into every open door--an invocation which
generally brings a very peppery blessing rattling down the staircase
from the busy housewife overhead. And in fine, his entire demeanour is
so eminently high-bred and dignified that it seems a privilege to oblige
him. You feel as if you were conferring an obol on Belisarius, and are
consequently on the best of terms with yourself for all the rest of the
day.
This "Lord High Vagabond of the Stocks" is, however, not quite pushing
enough for the era. In be-touristed cities he is swamped by an army of
interlopers. These are perhaps most frequently children; but the tribe
is bewrayed by their cry,--"_Perrita por pan![60]--Señor-e-e-to! una
perr-e-e-ta!_" a capital phrase for a beggar's whine! A small initiate
was squatting beside me all the time I was sketching the Casa Miranda.
She was engaged in coaching the baby--these were to be his first words.
The baby being unresponsive, she maintained the refrain herself, at
intervals of five minutes, in an uninterested semi-detached tone. If she
got the _perrita_, that would be so much profit; but she would not be
depressed if she didn't--she was not so keen about the _pan_. The
benevolent stranger is misled by their bare feet and rags and
persistency, and imagines that they are all on the brink of starvation;
but if he wants to see real poverty let him penetrate to the remoter
villages--and he will find no beggars there. There more than once I have
been humbled to the dust at having my "tip" politely spurned by the
dignified ragamuffins who have rendered me some trifling service. And
lest I should ruin their self-respect with coppers, I have been forced
to undermine their constitutions with cigarettes.
The last beggars whom we encountered at Búrgos, however, were "right"
beggars. They were clustering round the entrance of the great monastery
of La Cartuja[61] de Miraflores, awaiting their daily dole. Everybody
visits La Cartuja to see the marvellous tombs which Isabella erected for
her father and brother--the masterpieces of _el mæstre_ Gil; yet not the
least attractive feature are the white-robed Carthusian brethren
themselves, and the ragged mendicants "coming for their soup" according
to the immemorial usage of old.
The convent stands about two miles from Búrgos, on a slight eminence to
the right of the Pancorvo road, and was the last of the great monuments
of the city that we passed on our departure towards the east. The road
had been rising almost imperceptibly all the way from Valladolid.
Gradually the fields had got greener and the trees more plentiful as we
left the dun plains behind; and now a fine row of big shady elms
introduced a welcome variety to the everlasting poplars and half-grown
acacias which had been our only solace for many a sultry mile. The
country, moreover, now begins to assume a more mountainous character.
Away to the right rises the desolate Sierra de la Demanda, the northern
outpost of the rugged ranges round Sória,--perhaps one of the wildest
districts in all western Europe at the present day. The wolf and the
boar still roam at will through its untrodden valleys, though I believe
the bear now only survives in the Western Cantabrians and the Pyrenees.
Here the venerable monastery of Silos lay securely hidden even from the
sacrilegious Moors; and here in later years the dreaded _partidas_ of
Mina the _guerillero_ were able to defy the utmost efforts of the
French.
Our road passes only over the merest outskirts of these mountains, and
leads us on through Briviesca by a long, gradual, and monotonous
descent. Yet the gates of Castile are still before us, and we do not
quit that most Spanish of provinces without seeing it once more in its
sternest and wildest mood. North of the road lies the long level-topped
ridge of the Montes Obarenes, a range not dissimilar to our own Mendips,
and, like them, cleft with an unsuspected pass. For some distance we
skirt the base of the hills; and then with a sharp turn to the left we
dive suddenly into the grim defile of Pancorvo, a Deva gorge in
miniature, where road, river, and railway jostle each other through a
maze of fantastic limestone crags.
[Illustration: THE GORGE OF PANCORVO]
These mountain ramparts, pierced with their deep natural posterns, are a
most characteristic feature of the Castilian frontiers; and probably
that "Land of Castles" owes its name as much to them as to its
man-built donjons and citadels. Indeed, it requires no very vivid
imagination to discover the outlines of towers and battlements among the
sheer bare weather-beaten stones. One magnificent imitation overshadowed
our road in the _Serranía_ of Cuenca, with keep and watch-tower and
ballium as complete as a _Château Gaillard_. Another more ambiguous
specimen we caught sight of in this very district;--one of those
isolated conical hills crowned with a square rocky tooth, which are not
uncommon in the neighbourhood of Pamplona. First it seemed that it was a
rock,--then that it was a castle; and the balance of probability
appeared to change every half mile. The road led straight up to our
landmark and circled around the base, so that we saw it fairly close,
and from three different sides; but whether it was really a rock or a
castle we are not quite positive even to this day. There can be little
doubt that it is to some of these _Fate Morgane_ that we owe the old
proverb concerning castles in Spain.
The northern face of the Montes Obarenes is much more broken than the
southern; and as we run down from the pass into the pretty little town
of Miranda, we may see, far away on our right, that other great notch
to the eastward where the Ebro forces its passage out into the Rioja
plains. The Ebro is but young up here in the Vizcayan highlands; yet it
is already a fine broad river; and the massive old stone bridge of
Miranda, flanked by quaint houses and churches, makes a singularly
attractive sample of Spanish scenery to the tourist newly arrived from
Bayonne.
The river breaks through the mountains some ten miles lower, by a gap
between two rocky headlands, known as the cliffs of Bilibio and Buradon;
and beyond are the tawny undulating plains around Haro,--a famous
wine-growing district, whose vintages usually reach the English market
under the name of Bordeaux, though they taste just as good under their
own. The view (given in the illustrations as La Rioja Alavesa) is one
which is very typical of Spanish inland scenery. But a special local
touch is given by the Navarrese villages bunched together at the tops of
their conical hills, like so many hedgehogs with their bristles out.
Navarre was a buffer state in medieval times, and anyone who had nothing
else to do used to kill time by invading it. The Navarrese villages were
always upon the defensive, and evidently acquired the habit of
arranging themselves to suit.
[Illustration: LA RIOJA ALAVESA
Looking Northwards across the Ebro.]
Meanwhile our road to Pamplona keeps still to the northward of the
mountains, and, crossing the Ebro at Miranda, makes straight for the
heights of Puebla and Morillas, which answer to the Montes Obarenes on
the opposite side of the vale. The little river Zadora comes rippling
out to meet us; and the gap from which it issues admits us into a wide
level basin some ten miles in diameter, to which the Zadora itself forms
a somewhat irregular chord. The ground on the left bank of the river
rises considerably higher than on the right, and culminates in a little
shaggy knoll which stands close beside our road. Watch for it, and do
not pass it unnoticed; it is the "Englishmen's Hill." Well has it earned
that name, for it has been twice baptized in the blood of our nation.
Once when a detachment of the Black Prince's army, under the command of
Sir Thomas Felton, fell fighting valiantly against thirty times their
number on the eve of the battle of Navarrete.[62] Again when Picton's
"fighting devils" came like a storm against it in the crisis of the
battle of Vitória, cutting their path through the centre of King
Joseph's tottering array.
Salamanca was Wellington's most brilliant victory, but Vitória was
unquestionably the ablest of his campaigns. This invasion was not like
those that had gone before it--no mere sally from his impregnable
mountain lines. At last he could wield an undivided command and an army
as numerous as his opponents; and as he crossed the little frontier
river Agueda, he had looked back to Portugal with a confident "adieu."
Hill to the right and Graham to the left had already been slipped on
their quarry; and against such a sweeping combination neither Tormes,
Duero, nor Carrion could provide any adequate defence. Madrid was
abandoned before him,--Búrgos was dismantled. And the retreating French
convoys, with all their baggage, plunder, and munitions, were jammed in
the city of Vitória at the head of the road to Bayonne.
Joseph sought to bar the advance at Pancorvo, and thought the defile was
impregnable. He looked for assault from the southward, but the storm
broke upon him from behind. Wellington had shifted his base by sea from
Lisbon to Santander; and sweeping Reille and Maucune before him, came
pouring down the Ebro from the north. The stroke was a _coup de Jarnac_,
as fatal as it was unexpected. The heights of Obarenes and Morillas were
no longer barring the way; and Joseph hastily fell back to the hills
behind the Zadora, the only remaining position which he could possibly
hope to defend.
As it was in the days of Las Navas de Tolosa, so was it also in this
"crowning mercy" of the Peninsular War. It was a peasant who led Kempt's
brigade over the unguarded bridge at Tres Pontes, and fell, like his
prototype of the Morena, at the moment of the victorious attack.
Clinging in desperation to each successive thicket and farmstead, the
French were pushed remorselessly backward into the chaos of transport
behind. And even more fatal than the frontal onset was the blow struck
far to the left on the very confines of the plain. There Graham stormed
the village of Gamarra Mayor, and shut off the flying army from the use
of the great royal road. Nothing that ran upon wheels could go along the
branch road to Pamplona. Guns, ammunition, treasure, baggage, and
plunder all fell entire into the hands of the victors; and probably at
the moment Joseph was very well contented that the prize was
sufficiently valuable to effectually hamper the pursuit.
The battle was the ruin of Napoleon, as well as of his cause in the
Peninsula. The struggle had sapped his strength for years, and the
catastrophe came at the very crisis of his fate.[63] Among all his
enterprises there had been none more thoroughly inexcusable;--wantonly
conceived, treacherously undertaken, ruthlessly carried out. As great a
blunder in statecraft as it was an outrage on humanity. "The Spanish
canker destroyed him"; and so in bare justice it should.
Our route follows the track of the flying army along a deep green
Navarrese valley between lofty and cliff-like hills. By its side runs
the single line which connects Madrid with the frontier; but this turns
off to the north about halfway to Pamplona, making for San Sebástien and
Irun.
[Illustration: MIRANDA DEL EBRO
A Corner in the Town.]
The villages are much devoted to _Pelota_[64]; and few are too poor to
possess some species of primitive court. Those in the larger towns are
most imposing erections; but any bare wall will do, and some of the
churches have hoisted pathetic petitions that the parishioners will not
practise against the walls _during the hours of divine service_.
The houses themselves seem almost built with a view to the pastime, for
they are solid square stone buildings, shouldering close up against the
roadway; and their blank expanses of ashlar are persistently
commandeered by the boys.
_Pelota_ is exclusively a Basque game. In Castile and Leon the men are
content with skittles, and the boys are generally engrossed in the
enacting of miniature bull-fights--a game in which the star performer
invariably elects to play bull. Dancing is, of course, an amusement
which is common to all provinces and to both sexes: but a game in the
English significance is an institution which seldom appeals to the
southern mind.
In this district, however, the cyclist provides a good deal of salutary
exercise for the conscientious toll-keeper. For the Basque roads are not
national but provincial, and the provinces maintain them by taking
tolls. The stranger, however, is not generally aware of this custom; and
as the toll-bars are quite unobtrusive, he rides innocently past them on
his way. His first intimation takes the shape of a breathless and
howling _caminero_ sprinting desperately along the road behind him, and
smarting under the conviction that he is being wilfully bilked.
Some little distance before we reach Pamplona we pass one of the most
remarkable examples of rock formation that is to be met with even in
Spanish hills. Here the deep glen of Larraun debouches upon the main
valley, and across its mouth is drawn a huge natural wall of precipitous
limestone which can hardly be less than a thousand feet high. The top is
serrated, but both faces are equally sheer; and the thickness at the
base is not relatively greater than one would expect in an artificial
masonry dam. Probably, indeed, it was a natural dam originally,
retaining a vast reservoir in the vale behind; but now it is cleft in
the centre from top to base with a huge gash, clean-cut and narrow; and
through this stupendous portal the little river issues from the vale.
[Illustration: PAMPLONA
From the Road to the Frontier.]
Pamplona stands in the centre of an amphitheatre of mountains, rising
out of the level arena on a sort of daïs covered with walls and spires.
It is the chief of the northern frontier fortresses; but its bastions
date mostly from the days of Vauban, and its strength (from a modern
military standpoint) must depend on the forts which cap the neighbouring
hills. The cathedral is an interesting building, and possesses a
most lovely cloister; but the town generally is not very attractive to
the artist, though it forms a good "jumping-off place" for exploring the
country around.
The bare, windy wastes that stretch away from the city towards the
Pyrenean foot-hills are not altogether so tenantless as they seem to a
casual view. Several of the villages still bear traces of ancient
prosperity;--Estella, charmingly situated in a rocky hollow; Sangüesa,
with its noble monastery; Olite, once the Windsor of Navarre. The
last-named might almost rank as a working model for an antiquarian. Its
lanes are packed with the decaying mansions of the long-departed
courtiers, and dominated by the huge ruined castle which was the home of
the warrior kings. This palatial stronghold is noted as one of the
finest examples in the Peninsula: a match for our own Bamburgh or
Warkworth, and consequently with few rivals in the world.
As the capital of Navarre, Pamplona has, of course, been pre-eminent for
its sieges; and it was in one of these that Ignatius Loyola received the
wound which converted him from a dandy into an ascetic, and led to the
foundation of the Order of Jesuits. But the siege which possesses the
greatest interest for an Englishman is that undertaken by the Duke of
Wellington after Vitória; the enterprise which led to that series of
desperate struggles usually lumped together vaguely as "the Battles of
the Pyrenees."
The sieges of San Sebástien and Pamplona had been undertaken
simultaneously; but neither made very rapid progress, and Soult was not
the man to let them fall without an attempt to come to their aid. He had
re-formed the wrecks of Joseph's army on the French side of the
frontier; and advancing towards the passes of Maya and Roncesvalles, he
assailed them both suddenly the same day. The detachments which guarded
them were overpowered after a most resolute resistance, and Soult pushed
down the valleys towards Pamplona, reuniting his forces on the road.
Wellington had expected that the blow would be aimed at San Sebástien.
He was momentarily outwitted; but he recovered just in time. Soult found
his path barred at the fatal ridge of Saurauren,--just outside the
Pamplona basin, and literally within sight of his goal. The beleaguered
garrison heard the roar of that furious battle; they could watch the
smoke-wreaths curling above the intervening ridge. But no French
standards appeared in the mouth of the pass in the evening. When
the battle was renewed two days later, the English were the assailants;
and Soult and his beaten army could barely find safety in flight.
[Illustration: OLITE
The Castle.]
Saurauren was Wellington's last great battle on Spanish soil. A few
weeks later the two great fortresses had fallen, and--first of all the
allied Generals--he carried the war into France. Five years previously
he had landed in Portugal--a "Sepoy General," little more distinguished
than Cornwallis or Eyre Coote. But those five years in the Peninsula had
fixed his reputation for ever; and the giant who crossed the Bidassoa
had but little to add to his stature on the field of Waterloo.
There is a choice of two roads from Pamplona to the frontier. The
_kilos_ are reckoned from Maya; but Roncesvalles bears the more historic
name. In point of scenery there is little to choose between them; but
perhaps Maya is the harder journey, for Maya includes Vellate, and this
extra pass is the loftiest of the three.
The country towards Roncesvalles is at first much less mountainous in
character than that towards Vitória; for the high peaks of the Pyrenees
lie in the centre of the range, to the eastward; and those immediately
before us, though wild and rugged, do not show up very imposingly above
the lofty levels upon the Spanish side. Near Pamplona the meadows are
green and civilised, but the view becomes sterner and more barren as we
draw near to the feet of the hills; and presently we enter a long,
narrow, rocky gully--the bed of a mountain river--whose steep, bare
sides are dotted with trim little bushes of box. How hot it was in that
narrow gully! The sun's rays poured vertically into the breathless
hollow, and their heat was radiated by every burning stone. Even the
six-inch shadows of the box bushes were quoted at fancy values; and
shedding our outer garments one after another, we eventually emerged at
the further end in an almost aboriginal state.
"Are you thinking of resuming the garb of civilisation?" enquired one
vagabond of another, as we halted for a moment on the little bridge near
the village of Burguete. "I am thinking of resuming the garb of Adam,"
retorted his comrade desperately, as he glared into the pool beneath. It
was rather a public place for a bathe; but there are no passengers on a
Spanish road at _Comida_ time. And as that meal is invariably
unpunctual, we knew that the little _Fonda_ could be reached in plenty
of time.
Burguete stands in the centre of a little cup-like valley; and prominent
upon the further lip rises a big domed hill, one of the flankers of the
pass. It is a sleek, smooth mountain, upholstered with green turf, and
spangled with grazing sheep; and the big round beeches and chestnuts
herd together all over its crest, as domesticated as on an English lawn.
Yet the little hillock beneath it was the scene of one of the greatest
of tragedies; for there stood the abbey of Roncesvalles, the sepulchre
of Charlemagne's slaughtered Peers.
A good deal of controversial ink has been spilt over Charlemagne's
famous Spanish expedition: and all the confusion of history has been
worse confounded by romance. The French Epics tell of it as a glorious
and successful crusade, undertaken in the cause of Christendom against
the insolence of the Moors. The Emperor dictated his own terms in his
enemy's palace at Córdova, and it was only the treachery of Ganelon that
led to the regrettable incident at the end. Very different is the story
of the Spanish ballads. Their bards were most wofully sceptical of
religious and disinterested invasion; they wished to be left to fight
out their own quarrels with their own infidels, and felt no sort of
satisfaction at the prospect of Spain becoming a province of the
Franks. It was their own native heroes, Bernardo del Carpio and the
chivalry of Leon, who overthrew the Paladins at Roncesvalles. Is not
Roland's "Durandal" in the armoury of Madrid to this day, to prove that
the Spaniard was the better man?
[Illustration: PAMPLONA
A Patio near the Cathedral.]
In truth the expedition was directed against the newly-established
Caliphate of Córdova, in alliance with Suleiman Ibn-al-Arabi, the
Moorish king of Barcelona, who was jealous of Abderahman's growing
power. Charlemagne captured Pamplona (which was Christian), and obtained
some acknowledgment of suzerainty from the Sheikhs of Gerona and Huesca.
But Zaragoza held out against him with all its traditional obstinacy:
the ill-matched allies could by no means pull together; and the campaign
fizzled out abortively without any substantial gain. As for the dolorous
rout which concluded it, that was the work of neither Goth nor Moor, but
of the angry Basques of the mountains, a nation whom Charlemagne had not
regarded, and whom he probably despised. They had seen their country
pillaged, their capital Pamplona taken; and now, when the rearguard was
entangled in the mountains, they at last got the chance of plunder and
revenge. No doubt they trapped them in that long rocky defile--straggling,
way-worn, and cumbered with plunder and baggage--a position as hopeless
as Elphinstone's in the Koord Kabul. The disjointed line was toiling
painfully along the gullet; the slippery screes rose unscalable on
either side; and the jutting crags that frowned at every corner
afforded both ramparts and missiles to the unweariable mountaineers.
None but the doughtiest warriors could have succeeded in breaking out
into the basin of Burguete. And here their superior arms and discipline
would enable them to fight their way across to the further side. Only
one short ascent still remained to be surmounted; but their active
enemy was before them, and the task was beyond their power. Wounded
and exhausted, they drew together in a rallying square upon the little
hillock; and there, fighting desperately, they were cut down to a man.
The course of that fight is retold in the very conformation of the
valley, yet somehow the picture is inadequate. The drama is not quite
worthily staged. The place is too homely and pastoral for the scene of
that great Saga which Taillefer chanted between the embattled hosts at
Hastings; and which has since thrilled the hearts of generations of
warriors, as Sidney's was thrilled by the tale of Chevy Chase. We need a
more rugged environment for the memory of a departed demi-god. "He who
aspires to be a hero," said Dr Johnson, "should drink brandy!" And
perhaps, while he is about it, he might get killed in a Deva gorge.
There is a softer lay for the minstrel who would linger by the braes of
Burguete; a tale of two true lovers, who, as usual, were distressingly
ill-starred. Their story is even more ancient than the doughty deeds of
arms that we have just been rehearsing; for it relates to the days of
Charlemagne's illustrious grand-sire, Charles Martel. Othman ben Abu
Neza, the Moorish warden of the marches, had espoused a Christian bride,
Lampegia, daughter of Duke Eudo of Aquitaine; and fleeing with her
across the mountains to seek refuge from his indignant suzerain, was
overtaken in the pass of Roncesvalles, and slain in his lady's arms. The
unemotional historian is convinced that the marriage was political, and
hints that both Eudo and Othman were conspiring against their respective
liege lords. But at least he will grant us a certificate as to the
authenticity of the final catastrophe: and he flatly declines to go
further even for Roland and his Peers.
Battlefields lie thick in Navarre, and even the Vale of Thorns is not
absolutely the last of them. A second battle of Roncesvalles was
contested upon the heights of Altobiscar, at the very crest of the Pass,
in 1813. Here the British had been posted for six weeks, covering the
blockade of Pamplona; and had greatly vexed the soul of their general by
persistently deserting in twos and threes every night.
Why these seasoned soldiers, at this very hour of their triumph, should
have been seized with so strange an epidemic, is a problem which might
take a good deal of arguing. The only contemporary theory was the
suggestion that they were finding things slow! But their fighting
qualities did not seem to have got much affected. Soult finally attacked
them in person with much superior numbers: and they offered a most
resolute resistance, only giving ground after night-fall, when it was
evident they were being outflanked. Cole, the hero of Albuera, led them
stubbornly back along the mountain ridges towards Pamplona; and the act
was played out at Saurauren, where he arrived just in time to seize the
hill.
The ascent of the Pass upon the Spanish side is but trifling. A few
brisk turns in the track, and we have climbed from the abbey ruins to
the summit of the _col_ behind. Before us the road to France drops coil
below coil into the deep green valley, a long descent of over three
thousand feet. The actual frontier is some dozen miles further, at the
village of Valcarlos; where a modest little bridge, shepherded by a
horde of sentries, spans the waters of the infant Nive. But the spirit
of Spain lags behind us up here upon this breezy saddle. Here is the
true parting of the nations; and as we turn our faces plainwards, we
feel that we are taking our leave.
Farewell and adieu to you, fair Spanish ladies!
Farewell and adieu to you, ladies of Spain!
For we've received orders to cross the salt waters;
_We hope before long we shall see you again_!
INDEX
PAGE
Abándames, 21, 28, 30, 39, 42
Abderahman I., Caliph of Córdova, 296
Abu Walid, Alfaqui of Toledo, 208
Alarcon, Battle of, 267
Alba de Tormes, 163, 173
Albarracin, 255
Alberche, River, 212-213
ALCÁNTARA, 230-235
Bridge, 92, 231-235
Monastery, 53, 234
Alfonso VI. of Castile and Leon, 124-125, 140, 142, 202, 208, 269
Alfonso VIII. of Castile, 60, 208, 267
Alfonso XI. of Castile and Leon, 180
Alfonso V. of Portugal, 150-151
Alfonso, Prince of Castile, 258, 281
_Alguazils_, 53, 79, 80
Al Manzor, Vizier of Córdova, 85-86
Mountain, 161, 221
Almaraz, Bridge, 92, 224
_Almoravides_, 202
Altobiscar, Mountain Ridge, 299
Alxaman, Moorish Emir, 35
Andalusia, 60, 202
Aragon, 61, 168
Aránjuez, 191, 193-195
Arapiles, 164
Arlanzon, River, 266, 268, 274
Armada, The, 95, 107, 189
Arriondas, 37-38, 42
Arroyo Molinos, Battle of, 224
Arzobispo, Bridge, 214
ASTORGA, 68-71, 75, 78, 177
Asturias, Eastern, 15-16, 24-42
Western, 93, 113-131
Augustus, Emperor, 68, 228, 246
_Autos da Fé_, 205, 261-262
ÁVILA, 176-183, 190, 192
Barcelona, 296
Basques, 289, 296
Bathers, 120
Bavieca, 270-271
Becerrea, 76-77
Beggars, 278-280
BÉJAR, 173-176, 235
Bellotas, 116
Bembibre, 75
BENAVENTE, 133-136
Battle of, 134-135
Berruguete, Alonzo, Sculptor, 207
BETÁNZOS, 106, 108-110
Bidassoa, River, 6, 293
BILBAO, 5-7, 9
Birds (Wild). Eagles, 21, 229;
Falcons, 213;
Hoopoes, 156;
Magpies, 157;
Ospreys, 22-23;
Partridges, 73;
Storks, 157, 222, 229, 232
Biscay, Bay of, 5-7, 39
Bivar, Rodrigo Diaz de. _See_ Cid.
Borgoña, Felipe de, Sculptor, 207
Borrow, George, 54, 103, 108 _note_, 115-117
Briviesca, 82, 282
Buenavista, 46, 48, 50
Bull Fights, 171-173, 208, 273, 289
BÚRGOS, 60, 257, 264-277, 280-281, 286
Castle, 275-277
Cathedral, 273-274
Monasteries, 267-268, 280-281
Palaces, 270
Siege, 275-277
Burguete, 294-295, 297-298
Cabezon, 19, 42
Cacabellos, 72, 75
CÁCERES, 81, 221-224, 229, 235
_Cafés_, 13-14, 69-70, 273
Calderon, Pedro, Dramatist, 205
Camps, Celtic and Roman, 90-91
CÁNGAS DE ONIS, 30-33, 37, 39
CANTABRIAN MOUNTAINS, 15, 19-20, 43, 66, 152, 161, 282
Cares, River, 28-29
Cardena, San Pedro de, Monastery, 271
Carillo, Archbishop of Toledo, 151, 258-259
Carlists, 54-55
Carpio, Bernardo del, 296
Carranza, Archbishop of Toledo, 262
Carreño, 29-30
Carrion, River, 51, 286
Castaños, General, 68
Castile, Kingdom, 60-61, 202, 207
Old, 7-23, 43-45, 176-185, 243-258, 266-284
New, 185-214, 237-243
Castles. Benavente, 134;
Búrgos, 275-276;
Magueda, 211;
Mérida, 225;
Olite, 291;
Ponferrada, 73;
Segóvia, 249-250;
Toledo, 205
in Spain, 282-283
Castro Gonzalo, Bridge, 135-136
Castropol, 113-114
CASTRO URDIALES, 7-10, 19
Cathedrals. Avila, 180;
Búrgos, 273-275;
Leon, 58-59;
Lugo, 79;
Orense, 92;
Oviedo, 122;
Paléncia, 264;
Pamplona, 290-291;
Plaséncia, 217;
Salamanca, 164-165;
Santiago, 86-87;
Segóvia, 253-254;
Toledo, 205-208;
Tuy, 97;
Zamora, 145-146
Catharine of Aragon, Queen of England, 182
Cervera del Pisuerga, 45
Cervantes, Miguel. _See_ Quixote, Don.
Charlemagne, Emperor, 295-298
Charles V., King of Spain and Emperor of Germany, 190, 203, 268
Charles, Prince of Wales (Charles I.), 48
Charles Martel, Mayor of the Franks, 298
Churriguera, Architect, 87
_Cicadas_, 156
CID, The. Rodrigo Diaz de Bivar, 61, 124-125, 140-143, 177, 202, 269-271
Cies, Islas de, 101
Clamores, River, 253
Clausel, General, 163, 173
Clavijo, Battle of, 85
Climate, 129, 170, 182, 266-267, 272, 294
Cole, General, 299
Colonia, Juan de, Architect, 274
Combarros, 71
COMMUNEROS, Revolt of, 203-204, 268
Constantino, Bridge, 76
Corcuvion, 103
Córdova, 85, 201, 295-296
Cória, 235
_Corpus Christi_, Festival of, 139, 143-146
Cortes, Hernando, 223
CORUÑA, 64, 89, 104-105, 108, 110
Battle of, 92, 106-108, 111
Costume, 49, 62-63, 65, 71, 109-110, 157-158, 175-176
Courtship, 226-228
COVADONGA, 25, 33-37
Battle of, 24-25, 34-37
Nuestra Señora de, 24-25, 34, 37
Craufurd, General, 214
_Cubos_, 22, 58
CUDILLERO, 118-121
Cuenca, 255, 283
CUERA, Sierra de, 30, 38-39
Cuesta, Captain General, 213
Cueva, Don Beltran de la, 259
Cuidad Rodrigo, 162-163, 175
Dancing, 40, 48, 108-109, 289
De Arfe, Metal worker, 207
DEVA, River, 20-21, 28, 42
Gorge, 22-23, 25-28, 42, 43, 298
Dogs, 17-19, 216, 260
Dorothea. _See_ Quixote, Don.
Douro, Battle of the, 93, 214
Drake, Sir Francis, 107
Dubreton, General, 275
DUEÑAS, 263-264
DUERO, River, 94, 141, 149, 259-260
Valley, 137, 152-153, 176, 182, 211, 220, 257
Dulcinea del Toboso. _See_ Quixote, Don.
Ebro, River, 284-285, 287
Edward, Prince of England (Edward I.), 267
"The Black Prince", 285
El Burgo, Bridge, 107
Eleanor of Castile, Queen of England, 267-268
Electric Lighting, 109, 147
El Padron, 64, 103
Elviña, 106
Elvira, Princess, 140
Encina, Nuestra Señora de la, 73-74
Eresma, River, 243-245, 248
ESCLAVITUD, Nuestra Señora de la, 103
ESCORIAL, 186-190, 240-242, 261
Esla, River, 57, 131, 132-135, 263
Estella, 291
Estremadura, 175, 215-236
Eudo, Duke of Aquitaine, 298
EUROPA, Picos de, 20-21, 27-29, 30, 33, 161
Felton, Sir Thomas, 285
Ferdinand I. of Leon and Castile, 60-61, 140
III. of Castile and Leon, 60, 202, 206
of Aragon (The Catholic), 110, 150, 263-264
and Isabella of Castile, "The Catholic Kings", 150,
166, 181-182, 203, 263-264
Ferrol, 108, 111
Finistierra, Cape, 101
Fishing Ports, 9-10, 19-20, 40-41, 100-101, 118-119
Rivers, 38
Fishwives, 98, 101, 119
Flies, 31, 102
Florinda (La Cava), 201
Flowers (Wild). Broom, 224, 242;
Cactus, 221;
Cistus, 153, 224;
Hardhead, 183, 242;
Heather, 73, 102;
Poppy, 266
Fountains, 79-81, 108, 186, 222, 239
Foz, 112
Francia, Peña de, 175
Galicia, 15, 24, 62, 76-112, 140
Gamarra Mayor, 287
Ganelon, 295
Garlic, 13, 180
Gata, Sierra de, 175
Gelmirez, Archbishop of Santiago, 84, 86
Gerona, 111, 296
_Gigantes_, 139, 143-145
Gijon, 20, 35-36
GIL BLAS de Santillana. Birth-place, 19;
Captain Rolando, 72;
Dr Sangrado, 259-261;
Flight from Valladolid, 259-260;
Don Bernardo de Castel Blazo, 53;
at Salamanca, 166;
Imprisonment, 254-255;
at Toledo, 205;
Visit to Olivares, 149;
Liria, 254 _note_
Girard, General, 224
Gonzalez, Count Fernando, 61, 269
Gonzalo, Don Arias, 141-142
Graham, General, 286-287
GRÉDOS, Sierra de, 161, 170, 173-174, 182, 211, 215, 221, 235
Grenada, 255, 265
Guadalete, Battle of the, 200
Guadalupe, Monastery, 223, 235
Sierra de, 211
GUADARRAMA, Sierra de, 18, 155, 176, 182, 238, 256
Puerto de, 184-185, 242-243
Guadiana, River, 223, 225, 229
_Guardia Civil_, 53-54, 183, 245
_Guerrilleros_, 93-94, 111, 282
Haro, 284
Henrique IV. of Castile, 177, 250, 258
Hercules (at Toledo), 199-201
Hieronymo, Bishop of Zamora, 139
Hill, General, 224, 286
Howell, James, 48, 95, 206 _note_
Huesca, 296
Illescas, 193
Inns, 8-9, 25-27, 29, 46-48, 50, 69, 138-139, 184, 217-219, 226-227, 264-265
Inquisition, 250-252, 261-263
Isabella of Castile (The Catholic), 250, 252, 281.
_See also_ Ferdinand.
Princess, 181
Isidoro, San, 59-61, 208-209
Jackson, Private, 136
Jarama, River, 194
Jerte, River, 216
Jews, 200, 203, 261, 270
Joseph Buonaparte, 162-163, 277, 286-288
Jourdan, Marshal, 213
Juan II. of Castile, 258, 281
Prince of Spain, 181
Juana, Queen of Spain, 182, 265
Junot, Marshal, 68
La Cañiza, 95-97
Lacer, Caius Julius, Engineer, 231-232
La Demanda, Sierra de, 152, 281-282
La Granja, 244, 254
LA HERMIDA, 23
La Mancha, 95
Lampegia, 298
Lapisse, General, 235
Laredo, 10-11, 15
La Robla, 130
Las Huelgas, Convent, 267-268
Las Rozas, 238
Lefebre Desnouettes, General, 135
Lena, 127-128
LEON Province (Old Kingdom), 43, 45-76, 89, 102, 128-176, 258-266, 296
City, 36, 45, 50, 57-65, 66 _note_, 68, 81, 131
Cathedral, 58-59
Church of San Isidoro, 59-61
Leovigild, King of the Goths, 200
Le Sage, 255.
_See also_ Gil Blas.
Liebana, Vale of, 23, 42-44, 152
LLANES, 40-41
Lobsters, 8-10, 19-20
Lope de Vega, Dramatist, 205
Loyola, Ignatius, 178-179, 291
Luarca, 118
LUGO 68, 75-82, 89-90, 106, 177
Luna, Don Alvaro de, 207, 258
Madrid, 190-193, 215, 238, 240
Mansilla de las Mulas, 57
_Mantillas_, 273
Manzanal, Puerto de, 70-71, 75
Manzanares, River, 215, 237-238
_Maragatos_, 65, 70-71
Marbot, General, 185
Maritornes. _See_ Quixote, Don.
Marmont, Marshal, 149-150, 161-163, 165-166, 214
Martorell, Bridge, 92
MASMA, River, 112
Maucune, General, 163, 287
Maurice, Archbishop of Búrgos, 274
Maya, Puerto de, 292-293
Mayorga, 57
Meals, 8-9, 11-13, 41, 119, 138, 218
Medellin, Hill of, 213
Medina del Campo, 117, 258
_Membrillo_, 12, 181
Mendo, River, 108
Mendoza, Cardinal, 151, 207
MÉRIDA, 225-229, 232
Mero, River, 106
Mexico, 20, 223
Miéres, 126-127
Military Orders, 53, 66, 73, 234
Mina, General, 282
MIÑO, River, 6, 78, 89-97
Miraflores, La Cartuja de, 273, 280-281
MIRANDA DEL EBRO, 283-285
Casa de, 271, 280
Mondoñedo, 111
Money, 219, 279 _note_
Monforte, 90
Montamarta, 137-139
Montanchez, Sierra de, 223
MOORE, Sir John, at Salamanca, 182 _note_;
at Sahagun, 54-55;
assailed by Napoleon, 184-185;
Benavente, 134-136;
Retreat across the Vierzo, 74-75;
Pass of Piedrafita, 76;
Lugo, 89;
March to Coruña, 105-106;
Battle of Coruña, 106-107
Moors. Conquest of Spain, 200, 282;
repulsed from Asturias, 34-37;
Caliphate of Córdova, 201, 296;
Charlemagne's Invasion, 295-296;
Clavijo, 85;
Al Manzor, 85-86;
Sieges of Zamora, 140;
Reconquest of Toledo, 202;
The Cid, 269-270;
Fresh irruption, 202;
Battle of Alarcon, 267;
Battle of las Navas de Tolosa, 60, 267;
Reconquest of Andalusia, 60, 202;
Persecuted, 261
Morena, Sierra, 46, 61, 208
Morillas Mountains, 285
_Mozarabes_, 208-210
_Mudejares_, 204 _note_, 208 _note_
Mules, 42, 65, 104, 158-160
Munuza, Emir, 36
Muros, 117, 121
Nalon, River, 121
Napoleon Buonaparte. Pursuit of Sir John Moore, 55, 184-185, 135, 75
Spanish War, 165, 288
Narcea, River, 121
Navacerrada, Puerto de, 242-244
Navarre, 61, 284-300
Navarrete, Battle of, 285
Navas de Tolosa, Battle of, 60-61, 208, 267, 287
NÁVIA, River, 76, 116
Nervion, River, 5
Ney, Marshal, 93
Nive, River, 300
Nogales, 76
Norreys, Sir John, 107-108
Obarenes, Montes, 282-285
Olivares, Conde Duque de, 148-149
OLITE, 291
Olmedo, 258-259
Orbigo, River, 66-67, 134
Ordoñez, Don Diego, 142
ORENSE, Bridge, 32, 92
City, 89, 91-92
Othman ben Abu Neza, Emir, 298
OVIEDO, 121-127
Cathedral, 122
Oxen, 15-17, 30-31, 44-45, 103, 105, 159
Pacheco, Doña Maria, 203
Paget, General, 76, 135
PAJARES, Puerto de, 36, 58, 80, 126-130
Palaces. Búrgos, 271;
Cáceres, 222-223;
Leon, 62;
Olite, 291;
Oviedo, 122;
Plaséncia, 216-217;
Salamanca, 167-169;
Santiago, 87;
Segóvia, 247;
Toledo, 204;
Toro, 148
Palávia, 106
Paléncia, 264-265
PAMPLONA, 60, 81, 283, 290-294, 296
Siege, 291-293, 298
PANCORVO, Defile, 281-282, 286
Pantoja, Painter, 189
Paredes, Don Diego Garcia de, 32, 223
Peasantry, 26-27, 31, 40, 48-50, 62, 65, 79, 99, 109-110,
120, 138, 147-148, 175-176, 197-198, 216, 280, 287
Pedro, the Cruel, of Castile, 86, 180
_El Maestre._ _See_ Quixote, Don.
Pelayo, King of Asturias, 24, 31-32, 34-37
_Pelota_, 288-289
_Peones Camineros_, 243, 256
Philip II. of Spain, 67, 188-190, 194, 261-262, 273
IV. of Spain, 148, 244
Phoenicians, 199-200
Picton, General, 151, 285-286
Piedrafita, Puerto de, 75-76, 89
Pigs, 212, 229-230
Pilar, Nuestra Señora del, 179
Pilgrimages, 24-25, 64-65, 82-84
Pilona, River, 38
Pisuerga, River, 263, 265
Pizarro, 223
PLASÉNCIA, 81, 214, 216-219
Ploughs, 105
Poblet, Monastery, 187
Pola de Gordon, 129-130
Ponferrada, 72-75
Pontevedra, 81
Porcelos, Diego de, 269
Portugal, 92-93, 97, 150, 181, 286
Portugalete, 5, 9
Potes, 26, 42, 43
Právia, 117, 121
Pyrenees, Mountains, 282, 293-300
Battles of the, 292-293, 299
Quevedo, Francisco, Satirist, 149
Quinones, Don Suero, 66-67
QUIXOTE, Don. Tales of Chivalry, 2-3, 32, 66-67, 142, 161;
Ideal Knight Errant, 154;
Company at the Inn, 46;
Innkeeper, 247;
Dorothea, 244;
Dulcinea del Toboso, 65, 100, 184;
Sancho Panza, 8, 49, 83, 95, 181;
Maritornes, 9;
The Cortes of Death, 143;
Don Diego Miranda, 271;
_El Maestre_ Pedro, 211;
Roque Guinart, 157
Rañadoiro, Sierra de, 116
Reille, General, 287
Religious Observances, 120-121, 143-146, 273
Reptiles, Frogs, 46, 156
Lizards, 156
Snakes, 229-230, 257
Ribadávia, 95-96, 183
RIOJA, The, 29, 284
RIVADEO, 80, 112-116
Rivadesella, 39-40
Rock Formations, 22-23, 28, 129-130, 282-283, 290
Roderic, King of the Visigoths, 24, 200-201
Roland, 296-298
Roman Remains. Aqueducts, 225, 228-229, 246
Bridges, 76, 225, 231-232
Camps, 90
Theatres, 225
Walls, 58, 68, 78, 164, 225
Roncesvalles. Puerto de, 292-300
Battles of, 292, 295-299
Ronda, Well of, 99
Rooke, Admiral, 100
Roque Guinart. _See_ Quixote, Don.
Sahagun, 32, 54-56, 235
SALAMANCA 146-147, 149, 163-171, 176
Cathedrals, 164-165, 254
Colleges and Palaces, 165-169
Battle of, 150, 161-164, 214, 277, 286
Saldaña, 51, 55
Sanchez, Julian, 262
Sancho II. of Castile, 124-125, 140-142
Panza. _See_ Quixote, Don.
Sangüesa, Monastery, 291
San Rafael, Fonda, 184
San Roman, 261
San Sebástien, 6, 288, 292
Santander, 15, 20, 81, 287
SANTIAGO (St James the Greater), 64, 83-86, 177
de Compostela, 64, 82-89, 104
Cathedral, 82, 84, 86-87, 103
Santillana, 19
SANTOÑA, 10-11
SAN VICENTE DE LA BARQUERA, 19-20, 41
Sardines, 9-10, 101, 119
Sauráuren, Battle of, 292-293, 299
SEGÓVIA, 182, 192, 216, 229, 244-257
Alcázar, 248-250
Aqueduct, 246-247
Cathedral, 253-254
SELLA, River, 32, 37-39
_Serenos_, 123-124
Seso, Don Carlos de, 189, 261
Seville, 201, 206
Shepherds, 137, 208, 221, 239
Siete Picos, Mountain, 242-243, 248
Sil, River, 72-73, 91
Silöe, Diego de, Sculptor, 275
Gil de, Sculptor, 281
Silos, San Domingo de, Monastery, 282
Simancas, 260
Somers Cocks, Major, 276
Sontres, 26
Sória, 281
SOULT, Marshal. Pursuit of Sir John Moore, 55, 75-76, 89;
at Coruña, 106;
Conquest of Galicia, 92-94, 111;
Repulsed from the Douro, 93;
Advance upon Talavera, 93-94, 214;
Battles of the Pyrenees, 292-293, 299
Stage Coaches, 41-42, 104
Street, G. E., Architect, 59, 205
Suero, Archbishop of Santiago, 86
Suleiman Ibn-al-Arabi, Emir, 296
TAGUS, River, 195, 197-199, 201, 212, 214, 220, 230-232
Valley, 93, 185, 210-211, 219-220, 230-231
TALAVERA DE LA REINA, 182, 210-214
Battle of, 210-214, 235
Tarik, 71, 200
Theresa de Ávila, Sta, 177-179
Tierra de Campos, 137, 263
Tina Mayor, River. _See_ Deva, River.
TOLEDO, 98, 105, 151, 192-193, 197-210, 240, 269
Bridges, 92, 199
Cathedral, 122, 205-210, 274
Toledo, Montes de, 185, 198
Don Francisco de, 95
Toriñana, Cape, 101
Tormes, River, 161-163
Lazarillo de, 205
TORO 140, 147-151, 153
Battle of, 150-151
Torquemada, 265-266
Tomas de, Inquisitor, 179, 203, 250-251
Torrelavega, 15, 19
Torrelodones, 239-240
Trajan, Emperor, 226, 231, 246
Trees. Acacia, 132, 281;
Box, 294;
Beech, 44, 295;
Chestnut, 44, 295;
Elm, 194-195, 281;
Ilex, 153, 215-216, 219;
Olive, 173, 194, 221;
Palm, 102;
Pine, 184, 242-244, 257;
Poplar, 57, 65, 133, 281
Tresviso, 26-27
Troglodyte villages, 132-133, 263
Trujillo, 223, 235
TUY, 92-93, 96-98
Ubiña, Peña, 128
Unquera, 20-21, 39, 42
URDON, 25-27
Urraca, Princess, 140-143
Valcarce, 75
Valcarlos, 300
Valdepeñas, 95
Valdeprado, 44
Valdez, Inquisitor, 263
Valéncia del Cid, 60, 154, 202, 270
do Minho (Portugal) 97
VALLADOLID, 97, 141, 207, 259-264, 281
Velasquez, Painter, 134, 138, 149
Vellate, Puerto de, 293
Vellido Dolphos, 141-142
Verney, Sir Edmund, 48
Victor, Marshal, 213
VIERZO, The, 72-75, 91, 152
VIGO, 80, 97-101
Bay, Battle of, 100
Vilano, Cape, 101
Villacastin, 182-183
Villafranca, 75, 81
Villalba, 242
Villalpando, Francisco de, Metal Worker, 207
Vineyards, 94, 153, 220
Visigoths, 105, 122, 200
VITÓRIA, Battle of, 151, 277, 286-288, 292
Vizcaya, 5-7, 24
Walton, Private, 136
Wamba, King of the Visigoths, 105, 199-200
Water pitchers, 13, 80-82, 222
WELLINGTON, Duke of. Campaign of the Douro, 93;
Campaign of Talavera, 93, 212-214;
at Salamanca, 165-166, 170;
Battle of Salamanca, 161-164;
Criticises Siege of Astorga, 68;
Siege of Búrgos, 275-277;
Retreat from Búrgos, 266;
Generalissimo of Spanish armies, 179;
Campaign and Battle of Vitória, 277, 286-288;
Battles of the Pyrenees, 292-293;
Allusions to Spanish character, 49, 125-126
Wines, 12-13, 94-96, 266, 284
Ximena, 270-271
Ximenes, Cardinal, 179, 210
Yakub aben Yussef of Morocco, 267
Yuste, 190
Zadora, River, 285, 287
ZAMORA, 136-137, 139-147, 150
Cathedral, 139-140, 145-146
Zaragoza, 253
Sieges of, 111, 179, 296
[Illustration: MAP NORTHERN SPAIN]
PRINTED BY NEILL AND CO., LTD., EDINBURGH.
* * * * *
BLACK'S BEAUTIFUL BOOKS
ALL WITH FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR
By Post. Price 20s. 6d. THE 20s. NET SERIES Size 9 x 6-1/4 ins.
Algeria and Tunis
Painted and Described by FRANCES E. NESBITT. 70 Full-Page
Illustrations in Colour.
The Alps
Described by SIR MARTIN CONWAY. Painted by A. D. M'CORMICK. 70
Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
Ancient Tales and Folk-Lore of Japan
By R. GORDON SMITH. F.R.G.S. Painted by Japanese Artists. 57
Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
Australia
Painted by PERCY F. S. SPENCE. Described by FRANK FOX. 75 Full-Page
Illustrations in Colour.
Belgium
Painted by A. FORESTIER. Described by G. W. T. OMOND. 77 Full-Page
Illustrations in Colour.
Birds of Britain
By J. LEWIS BONHOPE, M.A., F.L.S., F.Z.S. 100 Full-Page
Illustrations in Colour, selected by H. E. DRESSER.
Birket Foster
By H. M. CUNDALL, I.S.O., F.S.A. 100 Full-Page Illustrations (over
70 in Colour) and many Sketches in the Text.
Burma
Painted and Described by R. TALBOT KELLY, R.B.A. 75 Full-Page
Illustrations in Colour.
Cambridge
By M. A. R. TUKER. Painted by WILLIAM MATTHISON. 77 Full-Page
Illustrations in Colour.
Canada
Painted by T. MOWER MARTIN, R.C.A. Described by WILFRED CAMPBELL.
76 Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
The Channel Islands
Painted by HENRY B. WIMBUSH. Described by EDITH F. CAREY. 76
Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
The Clyde
Painted by MARY Y. HUNTER and J. YOUNG HUNTER. Described by NEIL
MUNRO. 67 Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
Constantinople
Painted by WARWICK GOBLE. Described by PROF. ALEXANDER VAN
MILLINGEN, D.D. 63 Full Page Illustrations in Colour.
From Damascus to Palmyra
By JOHN KELMAN, M.A., D.D. Painted by MARGARET THOMAS. 70 Full-Page
Illustrations in Colour.
Egypt
Painted and Described by R. TALBOT KELLY, R.B.A. 75 Full-Page
Illustrations in Colour.
Egyptian Birds
Painted and Described by CHARLES WHYMPER. F.Z.S., B.O.U. 51
Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
Happy England
By HELEN ALLINGHAM. R.W.S. Text by MARCUS B. HUISH. 80 Full-Page
Illustrations in Colour. (Size 9-1/2 x 7 ins.)
The Rivers and Streams of England
Painted by SUTTON PALMER. Described by A. G. BRADLEY. 75 Full-Page
Illustrations in Colour.
English Costume
By DION CLAYTON CALTHROP. 73 Full-Page Illustrations in Colour and
numerous Sketches in the Text.
The English Lakes
Painted by A. HEATON COOPER. Described by WILLIAM T. PALMER. 75
Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
Essex
Painted by BURLEIGH BRUHL, R.B.A. Described by A. R. HOPE
MUNCRIEFF. 75 Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
Florence and some Tuscan Cities
Painted by COLONEL R. C. GOFF. Described by MRS. GOFF. 75 Full-Page
Illustration in Colour
The Flowers and Gardens of Japan
Painted by ELLA DU CANE. Described by FLORENCE DU CANE. 50
Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
The Lake of Geneva
Painted by J. HARDWICKE LEWIS and MAY HARDWICKE LEWIS. Described by
FRANCIS GRIBBLE. 60 Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
Greece
Painted by JOHN FULLEYLOVE, R.I. Described by REV. J. A. M'CLYMONT.
M.A., D.D. 75 Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
Kate Greenaway
by M. H. SPIELMANN, F.S.A., and G. S. LAYARD. 75 Full Page
Illustrations (51 in Colour) and numerous Illustrations in the
Text.
Hampshire
Painted by WILFRID BALL, R.E. Described by REV. TELFORD VARLEY. 75
Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
Holland
By NICO JUNGMAN. Text by BEATRIX JUNGMAN. 75 Full-Page
Illustrations in Colour.
The Holy Land
Painted by JOHN FULLEYLOVE, R.I. Described by REV. JOHN KELMAN,
M.A., D.D. 93 Full-Page illustrations, mostly in Colour.
Hungary
Painted by MR. AND MRS. ADRIAN STOKES. Described by ADRIAN STOKES,
A.R.A. 75 Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
India
By MORTIMER MENPES. Text by FLORA A. STEEL. 75 Full-Page
Illustrations in Colour.
Ireland
Painted by FRANCIS S. WALKER, R.H.A. Described by FRANK MATTHEW. 77
Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
The Italian Lakes
Painted by ELLA DU CANE. Described by RICHARD BAGOT. 69 Full-Page
Illustrations in Colour.
Japan
By MORTIMER MENPES. Transcribed by DOROTHY MENPES. 100 Full Page
Illustrations in Colour
Kashmir
Described by SIR FRANCIS EDWARD YOUNGHUSBAND, K.C.I.E. Painted by
MAJOR E. MOLYNEUX, D.S.O. 75 Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
Kent
By W. TEIGNMOUTH SHORE. Painted by W. BISCOMBE GARDNER. 73
Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
Familiar London
Painted by ROSE BARTON. A.R.W.S. 61 Full Page Illustrations in
Colour.
London to the Nore
Painted and Described by W. L. WYLLIE, R.A., and MARIAN AMY WYLLIE.
60 Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
London Vanished and Vanishing
Painted and Described by PHILIP NORMAN, F.S.A. 75 Full Page
Illustrations in Colour.
The Scenery of London
Painted by HERBERT M. MARSHALL R.W.S. Described by G. F. MITTON. 75
Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
George Morland
By SIR WALTER GILBEY, Bt. 50 Full-Page Reproductions in Colour of
the Artist's best work.
Morocco
Painted by A. S. FORREST. Described by S. L. BENSUSAN. 74 Full-Page
Illustrations in Colour.
Naples
By AUGUSTINE FITZGERALD. Described by SYBIL FITZGERALD. 80 Full
Page Illusirations in Colour.
The Royal Navy
Painted by NORMAN WILKINSON. Described by H. LAWRENCE SWINBURNE. 61
Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
New Zealand
Painted by the brothers F. and W. WRIGHT. Described by THE HON. W.
P. REEVES, Lately High Commissioner for New Zealand. 75 Full-Page
Illustrations in Colour.
Norway
Painted by NICO JUNGMAN. Text by BEATRIX JUNGMAN. 75 Full-Page
Illustrations in Colour.
Oxford
Painted by JOHN FULLEYLOVE, R.I. Described by EDWARD THOMAS. 60
Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
==>PUBLISHED BY A. AND C. BLACK SOHO SQUARE LONDON W. AND OBTAINABLE
THROUGH ANY BOOKSELLER AT HOME OR ABROAD
John Pettie
By MARTIN HARDIE, B.A., A.R.E. 50 Full-Page Illustrations in Colour
and 8 in Black and White.
The Riviera
Painted and Described by WILLIAM SCOTT. 75 Full-Page Illustrations
in Colour.
Rome
Painted by ALBERTO PISA. Text by M. A. R. TUKER and HOPE MALLESON
70 Full-Page Illustrations in Colour
Bonnie Scotland
Painted by SUTTON PALMER. Described by A. R. HOPE MONCRIEFF. 75
Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
The Savage South Seas
Painted by NORMAN H. HARDY. Described by E. WAY ELKINGTON, F.R.G.S.
68 Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
Northern Spain
Painted and Described by EDGAR T. A. WIGRAM. 75 Full-Page
Illustrations in Colour.
Southern Spain
Painted by TREVOR HADDON, R.B.A. Described by A. F. CALVERT. 75
Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
Surrey
Painted by SUTTON PALMER. Described by A. R. HOPE MONCRIEFF. 75
Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
Sussex
Painted by WILFRID BALL, R.E. 75 Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
Tibet
Painted and Described by A. HENRY SAVAGE LANDOR. 75 Full-Page
Illustrations in Colour.
Venice
By MORTIMER MENPES. Text by DOROTHY MENPES. 100 Full-Page
Illustrations in Colour.
Warwickshire
Painted by FRED. WHITEHEAD,R.B.A. Described by CLIVE HOLLAND. 75
Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
Wessex
Painted by WALTER TYNDALE. Described by CLIVE HOLLAND. 75 Full-Page
Illustrations in Colour.
West Indies
Painted by A. S. FORREST. Described by JOHN HENDERSON. 74 Full-Page
Illustrations in Colour.
Yorkshire
Painted and Described by GORDON HOME. 71 Full-Page Illustrations in
Colour.
By Post, Price 10s. 6d. THE 10s. NET SERIES Size 9 x 6-1/4 ins.
Bruges And West Flanders
Painted by A. FORESTIER. Described by G. W. T. OMOND. 37 Full-Page
Illustrations in Colour.
The Light Side of Egypt
Painted and Described by LANCE THACKERAY. 36 Illustrations in
Colour, Cloth (album shape). Size 10-1/2 x 8 ins.
A Book of Porcelain
Painted by WILLIAM GIBB. Text by BERNARD RACKHAM. 30 Full-Page
Illustrations in Colour of Selected Examples in the Celebrated
Collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum, London. (Size Crown
Quarto).
The Highlands and Islands of Scotland
Painted by WILLIAM SMITH, Jun. Described by A. R. HOPE MONCRIEFF.
40 Full-Page Illustrations in Colour
From Sketch-Book and Diary
By LADY ELIZABETH BUTLER. 28 Full-Page Illustrations in Colour and
21 Line Drawings in the Text by LADY BUTLER.
By Post, Price 7s. 11d. THE 7s. 6d. NET SERIES Size 9 x 6-1/4 ins.
Abbotsford
Painted by WILLIAM SMITH, Jun. Described by REV. W. S. CROCKETT. 20
Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
Adventures among Pictures
By C. LEWIS HIND. 24 Full-Page Illustrations (8 in Colour and 16 in
Black and White).
Alpine Flowers and Gardens
Painted and Described by G. FLEMWELL. 20 Full-Page Illustrations in
Colour.
The Beautiful Birthday Book
By GERTRUDE DEMAIN HAMMOND, R.I. 12 Full-Page Illustrations in
Colour. Decorative Borders by A. A. TURBAYNE.
Brabant & East Flanders
Painted by A. FORESTIER. Text by G. W. T. OMOND. 20 Full-Page
Illustrations in Colour.
British Floral Decoration
By R. F. FELTON, F.R.H.S., F.N.C.S., etc. (Florist to the late King
Edward VII. and many Courts of Europe). 28 Full-Page Illustrations
(12 in Colour).
William Callow
By H. M. CUNDALL, I.S.O., F.S.A. 22 Full-Page Illustrations in
Colour and Numerous Illustrations in the Text.
Canterbury
By W. TEIGNMOUTH SHORE. Painted by W. BISCOMBE GARDNER. 20
Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
Chester
Painted by E. HARRISON COMPTON. Described by FRANCIS DUCKWORTH. 20
Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
A History of the Church of England
By J. F. KENDALL, M. A. Illustrated from Autochromes of the Church
Pageant taken by ERNEST C. ELLIOTT. 24 Full-Page Illustrations (16
in Colour).
Country Sketches for City Dwellers
By MRS. WILLINGHAM RAWNSLEY. 16 Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
Dutch Bulbs & Gardens
Painted by MIMA NIXON. Described by UNA SILBERRAD & SOPHIE LYALL.
24 Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
Edinburgh
Painted by JOHN FULLEYLOVE, R.I. Described by ROSALINE MASSON. 21
Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
English Costume
Painted and Described by DION CLAYTON CALTHROP. In Four Sections,
each containing 18 to 20 Full-Page Illustrations in Colour, and
many Illustrations in the text: Section I. Early English--II.
Middle Ages--III. Tudor and Stuart--IV. Georgian, etc. Price 7s.
6d. net each.
Eton
Painted by E. D. BRINTON. Described by CHRISTOPHER STONE. 24
Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
Eton from a Backwater (Portfolio)
Painted by H. E. LUXMORE. 12 Coloured Plates.
Gardens of England
Painted by BEATRICE PARSONS. Described by E. T. COOK. 20 Full-Page
Illustrations in Colour.
The Garden that I Love
By ALFRED AUSTIN (_Poet Laureate_). Painted by GEORGE S. ELGOOD,
R.I. 16 Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
The Charm of Gardens
Text by DION CLAYTON CALTHROP. 32 Full Page Illustrations in Colour
(Size 9-1/2 X 7 ins.).
Geneva
Painted by J. HARDWICKE LEWIS and MAY HARDWICKE LEWIS. Described by
FRANCIS GRIBBLE. 20 Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
Grouse and Grouse Moors
Painted by CHARLES WHYMPER, F.Z.S. Text by GEORGE MALCOLM and
CAPTAIN AYMER MAXWELL. 16 Full-Page Illustrations in Colour (Size
Large Crown 8vo.).
Haunts of Ancient Peace
By ALFRED AUSTIN (_Poet Laureate_). Painted by AGNES LOCKE. 20
Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
The Heart of Scotland
Painted by SUTTON PALMER. Described by A. R. HOPE MONCRIEFF. 24
Full-Page Illustrations in Colour. (Size 10-1/4 × 7-1/2 ins.)
Inns of Court
Painted by GORDON HOME. Described by CECIL HEADLAM. 20 Full-Page
Illustrations in Colour.
Isle of Man
Painted by A. HEATON COOPER. Described by W. RALPH HALL CAINE. 20
Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
Isle of Wight
Painted by A. HEATON COOPER. Described by A. R. HOPE MONCRIEFF. 24
Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
Lamia's Winter Quarters
By ALFRED AUSTIN (_Poet Laureate_). Painted by GEORGE S. ELGOOD,
R.I. 16 Full-Page Illustrations in Colour, and 13 Head and Tail
Pieces by WILLIAM SCOTT.
Lausanne
Painted by J. HARDWICKE LEWIS and MAY HARDWICKE LEWIS. Described by
FRANCIS H. GRIBBLE. 24 Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
Letters from the Holy Land
By LADY BUTLER, Painter of "The Roll Call." 16 Full-Page
Illustrations in Colour by LADY BUTLER.
Liége and the Ardennes
Painted by A. FORESTIER. Described by G. W. T. OMOND. 20 Full-Page
Illustrations in Colour.
London
Text by A. R. HOPE MONCRIEFF. 32 Full-Page Illustrations in Colour
(Size 9-1/2 × 7 ins.).
The Tower of London
Painted by JOHN FULLEYLOVE, R.I. Described by ARTHUR POYSER. 20
Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
Flowers and Gardens of Madeira
Painted by ELLA DU CANE. Described by FLORENCE DU CANE. 24
Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
Malta
Painted by SIGNOR V. BORON. Described by FREDERICK W. RYAN. 20
Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
Middlesex
Painted by JOHN FULLEYLOVE, R.I. Described by A. R. HOPE MONCRIEFF.
20 Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
Montreux
Painted by J. HARDWICKE LEWIS. Described by FRANCIS H. GRIBBLE. 20
Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
MOSCOW
Painted by F. DE HARNEN. Described by HENRY M. GROVE (H.M.'s Consul
at Moscow). 32 Full-Page Illustrations (16 in Colour).
The New Forest
Painted and Described by MRS. WILLINGHAM RAWNSLEY. 20 Full-Page
Illustrations in Colour.
Nuremberg
Painted by ARTHUR GEORGE BELL. Described by MRS. A. G. BELL. 20
Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
The Rubáiyát of Omar Khayyám
Translated by EDWARD FITZGERALD. Painted by GILBERT JAMES. Edited,
with notes, by REYNOLD ALLEYNE NICHOLSON, M.A. 16 Full-Page
Illustrations in Colour. (Size 10-1/4 × 7-1/2 ins.)
Pompeii
Painted by ALBERTO PISA. Described by W. M. MACKENZIE, M.A., F.S.A.
24 Full-Page Illustrations (20 in Colour).
St. Petersburg
Painted by F. DE HAENEN. Described by S. DOBSON. 32 Full-Page
Illustrations (16 in Colour).
Scottish Life and Character
Painted by H. J. DOBSON, R.S.W., A.R.C.A. Described by WILLIAM
SANDERSON. 20 Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
Our Life in the Swiss Highlands
By JOHN ADDINGTON SYMONDS and his daughter MARGARET. Painted by J.
HARDWICKE LEWIS. With a Preface by MRS. VAUGHAN (MARGARET SYMONDS).
22 Full-Page Illustrations (20 in Colour).
The Homes of Tennyson
Painted by HELEN ALLINGHAM, R.W.S. Described by ARTHUR H. PATERSON.
20 Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
Days with Velasquez
By C. LEWIS HIND. 24 Full-Page Illustrations (8 in Colour and 16 in
Black and White).
Westminster Abbey
Painted by JOHN FULLEYLOVE, R.I. Described by MRS. A. MURRAY SMITH.
21 Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
Winchester
Painted by WILFRID BALL, R.E. Described by the REV. TELFORD VARLEY,
M.A., B.SC. 24 Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
Windsor
Painted by GEORGE M. HENTON. Described by SIR RICHARD RIVINGTON
HOLMES, K.C.V.O. 20 Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
Worcestershire
Painted by THOMAS TYNDALE. Described by A. G. BRADLEY. 24 Full-Page
Illustrations in Colour.
The Wye
Painted by SUTTON PALMER. Described by A. G. BRADLEY. 24 Full-Page
Illustrations in Colour.
Yorkshire Coast and Moorland Scenes
By GORDON HOME. 31 Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
Yorkshire Dales and Fells
Painted and Described by GORDON HOME. 20 Full-Page Illustrations in
Colour.
Yorkshire Vales and Wolds
Painted and Described by GORDON HOME. 20 Full-Page Illustrations in
Colour.
By Post, Price 6s. 4d. THE 6s. NET SERIES Size 7-1/2 × 5-1/4 ins.
The Cotswolds
Painted by G. F. NICHOLLS. Described by FRANCIS DUCKWORTH. 24
Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
The Upper Engadine
Painted by J. HARDWICKE LEWIS. Described by SPENCER C. MUSSON. 24
Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
Galloway
Painted by JAMES FAED, Jun. Described by J. M. SLOAN. 24 Full-Page
Illustrations in Colour.
Ireland
Painted by FRANCIS S. WALKER, R.H.A. Described by FRANK MATHEW. 32
Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
Jamaica
Painted by A. S. FORREST. Described by JOHN HENDERSON. 24 Full-Page
Illustrations in Colour.
Kew Gardens
Painted by T. MOWER MARTIN, R.C.A. Described by A. R. HOPE
MONCRIEFF. 24 Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
Liverpool
Painted by J. HAMILTON HAY. Described by WALTER SCOTT. 25 Full-Page
Illustrations in Colour.
The Norwegian Fjords
Painted and Described by A. HEATON COOPER. 24 Full-Page
Illustrations in Colour.
Paris
By MORTIMER MENPES. Text by DOROTHY MENPES. 24 Full-Page
Illustrations in Colour and numerous Line Illustrations in the
Text.
The Peak Country
Painted by W. BISCOMBE GARDNER. Described by A. R. HOPE MONCRIEFF.
24 Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
Tyrol
Painted by E. HARRISON COMPTON. Described by W. A. BAILLIE-GROHMAN.
24 Full-Page Illustrations in Colour.
BLACK'S BEAUTIFUL BOOKS
ALL WITH FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR
FOR ANGLERS
By Post, Price 7s. 11d. PRICE 7s. 6d. NET EACH Size 8 x 5-1/2 ins.
Fishermen's Weather
Edited by F. G. AFLALO. Opinions and Experiences by 100 well-known
Anglers. Containing 8 Full-Page Illustrations in Colour from
Pictures by CHARLES WHYMPER, F.Z.S.
Trout Fishing
By W. EARL HODGSON. Third Edition. Containing Frontispiece and a
Model Book of Flies in Colour.
Salmon Fishing
By W. EARL HODGSON. Containing 8 Full-Page Illustrations in Colour,
including Model Cases of 74 Varieties of Salmon Flies, and 10
Full-Page Reproductions from Photographs.
MISCELLANEOUS
China
Painted by MORTIMER MENPES. Text by THE HON. SIR HENRY ARTHUR
BLAKE, G.C.M.G. 16 Full-Page Illustrations in Colour and many Line
Drawings in the Text. Demy Quarto, Cloth, Gilt Top.
PRICE 5s. NET; by Post, Price 5s. 6d.
The Ramparts of Empire
Painted by NORMAN L. WILKINSON. Text by FRANK FOX. 12 Full-Page
Illustrations in Colour. Large Crown Octavo, Cloth.
PRICE 5s. NET; by Post, Price 5s. 4d.
Oriental Carpets, Runners and Rugs, and some Jacquard Reproductions
By SYDNEY HUMPHRIES. 24 Full-Page Reproductions in Colour and 8
Full-Page Illustrations in Black and White. Demy Quarto, Cloth,
Gilt Top.
PRICE £2 2s. NET; by Post, Price £2 2s. 9d.
Gainsborough
Engraved by MORTIMER MENPES. Text by JAMES GREIG, R.H.A. 15
Full-Page Examples of the Master's Work in Colour-Facsimile.
Imperial Quarto, Cloth, Gilt Top. (Size 15 X 11 inches.)
PRICE £3 3s. NET; by Post, Price £3 3s. 9d.
THE "MOTOR ROUTES" SERIES
By GORDON HOME
The Motor Routes of England
A Guide to the Beautiful Scenery and Interesting Localities in the
Country
SOUTHERN SECTION (South of the Thames)
Large Crown Octavo. Containing 24 Full-Page Illustrations in
Colour, and 45 Sketch Maps in the Text.
WESTERN SECTION
Large Crown Octavo. Containing 24 Full-Page Illustrations in Colour
and 42 Sketch Maps in the Text.
_In preparation._
Cloth, Each Price 5s. Net (by Post, Price 5s. 5d.); Leather, Each Price
7s. 6d. Net (by Post, Price 7s. 11d.)
The Motor Routes of France. Part I.
To the Châteaux Country, Biarritz, The Pyrenees, The Riviera, and the
Rhone Valley
Large Crown Octavo. Containing 16 Full-Page Illustrations in
Colour, 16 in Black and White, and 63 Maps and Plans.
Cloth, Price 5s. Net (by Post, Price 5s. 5d.); Leather, Price 7s. 6d.
Net (by Post, Price 7s. 11d.)
Rembrandt
By MORTIMER MENPES. With an Essay on the Life and Work of Rembrandt
by C. LEWIS HIND. Demy Quarto, Cloth, Gilt Top(11 × 8-1/2 inches).
16 Examples of the Master's Work, Reproduced in Colour-Facsimile by
a Special Process.
PRICE 12s. 6d. NET; by Post, Price 13s.
The Lady of the Lake
By SIR WALTER SCOTT. Large Crown Octavo, Cloth, Gilt Top. 50
Full-Page Illustrations (8 of them in Colour, from Paintings by
SUTTON PALMER).
PRICE 5s. NET
By Post, Price 5s. 5d.
The Practical Angler
Or, The Art of Trout Fishing, more particularly applied to Clear Water
By W. C. STEWART. Large Crown Octavo, Cloth. Containing Coloured
Facsimiles of the Flies used by Mr. STEWART (6 Plates).
PRICE 3s. 6d. NET
By Post, Price 3s. 10d.
_THE "PORTRAIT BIOGRAPHIES" SERIES_.
Sir Henry Irving
By MORTIMER and DOROTHY MENPES. Containing 8 Portraits of Irving in
Colour. (Size 6-1/4 × 4 ins.)
PRICE 2s. NET
By Post, Price 2s. 3d.
THE "PEOPLES OF MANY LANDS" SERIES
Each Large Fcap. Quarto (9 × 7-1/2 ins.). Cloth, Price 5s. net each;
by Post, Price 5s. 4d.
The People of Holland
Painted by NICO JUNGMAN. Containing 32 Full-Page Plates in Colour,
Tipped on Grey Mounts, and the Interleaves with Descriptive Notes
Quaintly Ornamented.
The People of Egypt
Painted by LANCE THACKERAY. Containing 32 Full Page Plates in
Colour, Tipped on Grey Mounts, and the Interleaves, with the
Descriptive Notes Illustrated with Thumb-nail Sketches in Black and
White.
The People of India
Painted by MORTIMER MENPES. Containing 32 Full-Page Plates in
Colour, Tipped on Grey Mounts.
FOOTNOTES:
[1] "Infernal _anis_," says the advertisement, "made from the worst
wines of the Priorato, is neither tonic, digestive, nor restorative,
and has never been commended at any exhibition."
[2] Literally "Tubs", the solid semicircular bastions of Spanish town
walls.
[3] A collegiate church, intermediate in dignity between a parish
church and a cathedral.
[4] A public promenade, thickly planted with trees.
[5] A Spanish league is about an hour's march, say 3-3/4 miles.
[6] At one place it consisted of a huge earthenware bowl, 3 feet high
and 4 feet in diameter, filled up solid with earth to within 4 inches
of the rim.
[7] Here died ----.
[8] See p. 140.
[9] See p. 140.
[10] This monastery is a very notable Leonese monument, a masterpiece
of _Plateresque_, somewhat similar to the _Otto Heinrichs Bau_ at
Heidelberg, and formerly the property of the knights of Santiago.
[11] Astorga = _Ast_urica _Aug_usta.
[12] Literally the "House of Purification," _i.e._ the Great Mosque of
Córdova.
[13] There is something of the same flavour about the inscription on
the Gates of the _Hospital del Rey_ at Burgos; "Blessed is the man that
provideth for the sick and needy, St James (!) shall deliver him in the
time of trouble."
[14] The fate most dreaded by the Spanish prisoners in the Moorish wars.
[15] Borrow stigmatises Betánzos as a filthy and evil-smelling
pest-house. But then his horse broke down there. So much depends upon
the point of view!
[16] See page 142.
[17] /p "Who would not give a foot of ground For all the Devils in
Hell."--_Ballad of Lord Willoughby._ p/
[18] A cant term for knifing. The Neapolitan had a standing feud with
Spain.
[19] The proverb is still quite current. A carrier of whom we inquired
the distance to Zamora oracularly answered that "It could never be
gained in an hour."
[20] See p. 60.
[21] The recognised Spanish title for the Host.
[22] Presbytery.
[23] "Here's to the glorious, pious and immortal memory of the great
and good King William, who delivered us from Popery, brass money, _and
wooden shoes_!"
[24] _Arriero_, from _arré_! gee-up!
[25] As in Italian, the diminutive is a sort of endearing form of
superlative.
[26] They were built at the end of the eleventh century. A singularly
fine bit of work for so early a date.
[27] Moore was at Salamanca and his artillery at Talavera when Napoleon
reached Madrid.
[28] The burial-place of the Kings of Aragon.
[29] See p. 261.
[30] Such is the meaning of the word, but I would not like to vouch for
the etymology. The derivation is possibly the other way.
[31] The tiny mosque of _San Cristo de la Luz_ is the only genuine
Moorish fragment. The _Puerta del Sol_, the church of _Sta Maria la
Blanca_, etc., are _Mudéjar_ work. Cp. note on p. 208.
[32] _I.e._ "Citadel," _Cæsareum_.
[33] James Howell in 1620 estimates the annual income of Toledo at
£100,000, a sum equivalent to nearly half a million to-day.
[34] Metal screens and reliquaries.
[35] He has only a statue at Toledo; but his actual grave has a
scarcely less honourable site in _las Huelgas_ at Búrgos.
[36] The _Mozárabes_ were Christians under the dominion of the Moors,
as _Mudéjares_ were Moors under the dominion of the Christians.
[37] Several such herds were seized by the hungry regiments in the
course of the retreat.
[38] Heywood, _Fair Maid of the West_.
[39] The country people invariably reckon in _reals_--the old coinage.
The piece is no longer struck, but its value is one-fourth of a
_peseta_.
[40] Some call it eighty-one. But this includes some arches of
construction in the spandrils, and is not fair counting.
[41] Cp. p. 55.
[42] The province derives its name from the conquests "beyond the
Duero" won in the earlier stages of the struggle with the Moors.
[43] _Noche Toledana_ is proverbial in Spanish as equivalent to a
sleepless night.
[44] The _Octroi_ office, to receive the city tolls.
[45] Trajan was a Spaniard born, and his reign an extremely prosperous
period for Spain.
[46] "The Vineyard," a lovely dismantled monastery planted beside the
Eresma, just underneath the town.
[47] Montaigne.
[48] _E.g._ Talavera, first Archbishop of Grenada, and Peter Martyr,
the Confessor and Biographer of Isabella.
[49] The beautiful _Huerta_ of Liria is the only district actually
praised.
[50] Cp. p. 207.
[51] Cp. p. 151.
[52] The place of execution at Seville.
[53] Cp. p. 132.
[54] The ambiguity would not be apparent to a Spaniard. To him
_Invierno_, "Winter," is the assonym to _Infierno_, "Hell."
[55] The "Silversmith style," or early Spanish Renaissance. So called
from the Cellini-like carving which is its leading characteristic.
[56] The Emperor of Morocco; at this time the martial Yakub aben Yussef.
[57] Cp. note on p. 265.
[58] See p. 281.
[59] See p. 161.
[60] "A ha'penny for bread." The _perrita_ or "little dog" = a
halfpenny, and the _perro gordo_ or fat dog = a penny. Thus "Two reals
minus a little dog" is 45 _centimos_. The animal irrelevantly called a
"dog" is the lion on the reverse of the coin.
[61] _Certosa._ Charterhouse.
[62] This incident has been utilised by Conan Doyle in his _White
Company_. But that story rather exaggerates the height and steepness of
the hill.
[63] During the sitting of the Congress of Dresden.
[64] A highly developed form of Fives.