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[Illustration: Galley Slave, a 2-year-old filly, is the present queen of
Sagamore Farm. Last winter she ran three times in California. She won all
three races and set one world’s record.]
Horse Training
by
Modern Methods
BY
ALLAN MELVILL POPE,
First Lieutenant of Cavalry, U. S. Army.
1912.
FRANKLIN HUDSON PUBLISHING CO.,
KANSAS CITY, MO.
Copyright, 1912,
By Franklin Hudson Publishing Co.,
Kansas City, Mo.
FOREWORD.
The object of this book is to arrange in the most convenient, clear, and
concise form the modern system of horse-training, in so far as it is
applicable to the training of horses in the mounted service of the United
States.
No attempt has been made in any case to improve upon methods already
deemed correct by the best horsemen; and as such methods can be found
dealing with all points of training, it follows that the subject matter
in this book is not original. Where the best was to be found, there it
has been sought, and where the authors of previous works have expressed
their ideas in language considered the most concise and clear, their
words have been copied verbatim, with due acknowledgement to the authors.
I am indebted to the following for methods, theories, translation of
technical terms, and improvised commands herein contained:
To Major George H. Cameron, 14th Cavalry,
Captain W. C. Short, 13th Cavalry,
Captain Guy V. Henry, Cavalry,
1st Lieutenant Gordon Johnston, Cavalry,
1st Lieutenant Joseph F. Taulbee, 2d Cavalry,
The late Captain M. Horace Hayes, F.R.C.V.S.,
Edward L. Anderson,
James Fillis,
Captain de Saint-Phalle,
_Notes d’Equitation-Carouseles Militaire_,
_Saumur Notes_ (English translation of the above);
and to Col. Haddens W. Jones, 10th Cavalry, for valuable assistance
and advice.
PREFACE.
Nothing within this book is believed to be beyond the reach of the
mounted service in general.
The time allotted to “breaking” or gentling will be in many cases
eliminated, as the present system of remount stations has become well
established.
Each troop should have three or four such articles as longes and
cavessons. These articles can be made very easily by saddlers and
blacksmiths, from a model. Models can undoubtedly be procured through the
Mounted Service School at Fort Riley, Kansas, or from any saddlery store,
care being taken in purchasing from the latter to determine whether the
model is a correct one or not.
In many cases the reasons for the use of certain aids, etc., are
apparent, and all explanation is omitted. In other cases, where
explanations involve nice points of mechanics, etc., they have likewise
been omitted. The reason for the latter omissions being that they are
interesting to the student only. The real student of horse-training can
only be one who enjoys such work. Many officers do not enjoy it, and this
book is intended for all.
In view of the fact that all the methods embodied herein are
well-recognized methods, I trust readers will take for granted that they
conform to the mechanical principles, etc., omitted.
As riding cannot be taught by books, no attempt is made to do so here.
Officers instructed in riding at the Mounted Service School are returned
to their regiments every year, where, by their example and ability
to instruct, they can accomplish far more than any literature on the
subject; but where riding, as regards the seat, cannot be readily
forgotten, points of training a horse can; and it is for such as forget,
or for such as have had nothing or little to forget, that this book is
intended.
As to riding, it might be of interest, however, to some to note that
the following cautions have been found to be a frequent necessity while
training horses with enlisted men up:
Don’t yank upon your horse’s mouth.
Keep your hands low and your wrists supple.
Don’t stick your knees up in the air.
Grip with your knees and the calf of your leg.
Let your stirrups out (for most men).
Carry your legs back.
Don’t let your reins flop.
Don’t hollow out your back.
Don’t let your horse back up (unless the movement is a retrograde one).
Drive him forward.
Don’t let him bend his neck at the shoulder.
Use your leg (or legs).
Don’t be rough with your horse.
New horses sent to a post should be turned over to one competent officer
with assistants, if necessary, for training. If necessary to assign
them to troops to assure proper care and grooming, orders should be
given that they be exercised only by direction of the officer in charge.
Enlisted men specially suited for training horses should be detailed
under the above-named officer’s direction. Only such enlisted men should
be detailed who will not be discharged or detailed on other duty until
the training ceases. The training should continue for not less than six
months. Horses should, when possible, be assigned trainers who belong
to the organization to which the horses are assigned, the rider being
assured, if possible, that the horse will be assigned to him after the
training is over.
Two officers can train with reasonable satisfaction seventy-five horses,
if given one hour and a half per day six days a week, in the riding-hall.
As the number of horses in the riding-hall at a time go over fifteen the
difficulties increase.
In case it be impossible for new horses to be under the direction of one
officer, organization commanders should keep the horses out of ranks an
equal period, and undertake the same training with competent men.
Hard-trotting, uncontrollable horses, uncomfortable to ride and weak in
muscular activity, result from lack of training.
From practical work with enlisted men, it has been found that there is
little difficulty in teaching them the kinds of aids, with their proper
names, and the use and form the various exercises take. The manner in
which they apply their aids and perform the exercises varies with the
individual’s ability to ride and aptitude for training.
When Part II. is undertaken, the difficulties increase. The difficulties
do not lie in the use of the double rein, which the men soon become
accustomed to, but in understanding the flexions and the delicate use of
the aids required in these exercises and in the changes of lead at the
gallop.
As hands are a most important element in Part II., it is not surprising
that men who have ridden perhaps less than three years should have
difficulty.
Part II. should not be abandoned, either because of the difficulties
inherent to the exercises or because of the lack of proper equipment. The
use of a double bridle improvised from a watering bridle and a regulation
bit is preferable to the use of a single curb immediately succeeding the
work with the snaffle alone.
To some it may seem that confusion exists as to arrangement of the facts.
The scheme of arrangement is as follows:
A man, in training a horse, can begin work on the horse with what he
finds in the beginning of this book, and as the horse progresses he need
only progress in his reading to find new exercises. Certain definitions
and explanations are requisite to a proper understanding of an exercise.
These are necessarily interpolated.
If the reader will consider the difficulties in setting forth such facts
in a logical sequence, he will perhaps be more lenient in his criticisms
of this book, although criticism is expected and sought.
A. M. P.
_Manlius, N. Y._, August, 1911.
PART I.
CHAPTER I.
EARLY HANDLING.
_Object of Training._—Horse-training is a series of exercises to render
the horse obedient and at the same time to preserve and develop his
inherent qualities. It is a muscular training which by suppling the parts
will strengthen the entire body, and by balancing the horse will develop
harmony in his movements.
_New Horses._—New horses should be exercised daily, at first being led
by men on foot, and later by men mounted on quiet horses. The exercise
should be at a walk, and is used to quiet and strengthen the animals.
When leading a young horse mounted, the side upon which he is led should
often be changed to avoid giving a false set to the neck.
_Care of New Horses._—The young horse should have flannel bandages on his
fore legs when exercised, from the fetlock to the knee, to support the
flexor tendons and to keep the horse from hitting himself, thereby often
causing splints.
After exercising, the legs should be rubbed and the tendons massaged,
then washed with cool water and flannel bandages applied. The tendons are
thereby supported and wind-puffs and swellings prevented.
_How to Adjust a Bandage._—A bandage should be wound up with the tapes
inside. Unroll six or eight inches of it, and lay this loose portion
obliquely across the outside of the leg, close to the knee, with the
end reaching to about the center of that joint, and the rolled-up part
turned to the outside, and directed downward and forward. The beginning
should be continued around the fetlock and upper part of the pastern, and
brought back close up below the knee. The loose end is then turned down,
and the folds of the bandage carried over it. The tapes are tied a little
above the center of the cannon bone. (_Hayes._)
_To Approach an Uncertain Horse._—To go up to an uncertain horse which
is held or tied up in the open, approach the fore leg on the near side
at an angle of about 70 degrees to the direction of the axis of the
horse. Having reached his shoulder, place a hand on his crest and stroke
the mane. When a certain degree of confidence is restored to the horse,
further handling may be undertaken.
_To Lead a Horse with the Snaffle, and to Adjust Snaffle._—To lead a
horse with a snaffle mounted or dismounted, pass both reins through the
near snaffle ring if the horse is to be on the off side. In placing the
snaffle bridle upon a fractious horse, place the reins first over the
neck, if possible. If the horse objects to having the head-stall put on,
unfasten the left check-strap from the ring of the snaffle. Place the
head-stall in position, then put the bit in the mouth and refasten the
cheek-strap. If impracticable to remove the halter before bridling the
horse, place the bridle on over the halter, then unfasten the halter,
slip the nose-band down over the nostrils, then into the mouth and around
under the bit and out of the mouth. The halter will then fall off.
_Longeing._—The following principles must be considered when longeing:
1. The horse must be controlled by the longe; the only function of the
whip is to move the horse forward.
2. The length of the longe should be frequently changed. The horse should
alternately stretch himself on a large circle and bend himself on a small
circle.
3. The gaits should frequently be changed. (_Notes d’Equitation._)
_Method of Longeing a Horse._—Start the longeing exercise without the
longeing whip. Place the cavesson on the horse, if possible, after the
halter has been removed, or, if a bridle is on the horse, over the
bridle. Fasten the longe into the ring of the cavesson. Face the same way
the horse faces and walk near his head, leading him by a short longe in a
circle to the left; right hand on the longe near the horse’s head, longe
in the left hand, not coiled, but arranged so that in running out quickly
it will not become entangled or pinch the fingers.
If the horse refuses to lead, an assistant may urge him forward as
quietly as possible from the rear. As the horse becomes accustomed to
being led, gradually lengthen the longe and drop back slightly from
the head of the horse, toward his shoulders. Cluck to the horse to urge
him forward. Use the hand to make motions for the same purpose or tap
him lightly with the hand on his side, in case the horse refuses to go
forward. If the horse turns toward the trainer, shake the longe so that
it lightly taps the nose on the side of the horse which should be toward
the center of the circle. Gradually, as the horse learns what is wanted,
the trainer moves so that the horse circles about him, first at a slow
gait, then at the trot, and finally, when more proficient, at the canter
and gallop.
To slow down the gait, use the voice soothingly and shake the longe up
and down gently. To stop the horse, a series of motions of the longe up
and down, with a strong pull on the longe as it comes down, will have
the greatest effect. The word “whoa” should frequently be used in this
movement. When the horse obeys, he should be caressed.
When a horse will go to the left on the longe, even at the walk, he
should be practiced going to the right until equally capable on that
hand. A horse should not be longed until fatigued.
_Use of the Longe._—
1. To exercise young horses without injury.
2. To give first lessons to horses difficult to manage.
3. For horses that hold back or fight.
4. For horses with one shoulder more developed than the other.
5. For horses that will not work equally well on either hand.
6. For horses that bend themselves with difficulty.
7. For the first lessons in jumping. (_Notes d’Equitation._)
_The Snaffle Bit._—As early as possible, a bridle and snaffle bit should
be put on the horse.
The snaffle is a very mild bit because it acts mostly on the lips and
only a little on the bars. The faults of the hand are therefore less
prejudicial to the tender mouth of the new horse. When, in the course
of training, the horse becomes familiar with the snaffle bit, he may
be prepared for the double bridle by the use of the double snaffle, a
bit which is known not to be dangerous and which gives the rider more
action upon the horse. The double snaffle should properly be composed of
a snaffle without branches and a “Boucher” snaffle. The double snaffle
also is useful in the case of a horse that leans on the hands; the remedy
consisting, in this case, of producing action either by alternate effects
which make each snaffle bit felt separately, or by cross-effects obtained
by the action of one snaffle bit on one side and the other snaffle bit on
the other side.
_Saddling New Horses._—New horses should be made accustomed to equipment
while they are first exercised by leading or when on the longe; first
by the blanket and surcingle, then by the saddle being placed on their
back. The saddle is put on first without stirrups, then with stirrups
crossed, and then with the stirrups hanging. The girth should at first be
tightened slightly, and afterwards readjusted, if necessary, during the
exercises. A nervous horse should be longed a little before placing the
saddle on his back.
A horse should not be mounted for the first time on the same day he is
first saddled.
_Mounting the New Horse._—When first mounting, the rider should get into
the saddle as handily and quickly as possible, without being particular
as to exactness. An assistant stands facing the horse. The rider slaps
the saddle, lets the stirrups drop against the sides of the horse, and
then takes up the reins, leaving them very long. In case the horse backs
up or tries to move away, the assistant leads him gently up to where he
was before and the rider tries to mount again.
If the rider believes that the horse will make violent resistances, he
can insure his seat by having a rolled blanket strapped to the pommel
of the saddle, to keep his knees in place. With a horse very difficult
to mount, where there is danger of severe resistance, the horse should
be snubbed up to a strong, quiet horse. Snubbing is only resorted to in
cases where longeing and quiet handling have failed to bring about the
desired results.
With very restless animals, the assistants stand squarely in front of the
horses and simply caress the animals’ heads without holding the reins.
If a horse is very restless, and the cavesson has to be used, it should
be in the hands of an experienced man.
The following is a position often taken for mounting a restless animal:
Take the reins of the snaffle in the left hand, and with the same hand
catch hold of the mane at about the middle of the neck so that there is a
slight tension on the reins. Take hold of the pommel of the saddle with
the right hand and mount, taking care that the left toe does not touch
the horse when mounting. Above all things, avoid bustling the horse when
starting; for, if he is led to expect this, he will never stand quietly
to be mounted. Sometimes feeding a horse oats from a pan while he is
being mounted causes him to stand quietly.
_First Lessons after Mounting._—Never require anything from the horse
mounted for the first time. If he walks straight ahead, it is sufficient.
Keep the reins separated and feel lightly the snaffle. Ride the horse a
few times around the hall to the right and to the left, leaving him as
free as possible, if, of course, he is quiet. If the horse does well,
dismount and feed him carrots, if they can be supplied, or a handful of
oats. Carrots ought always be cut lengthwise and never across; in the
latter case they might stick in the animal’s throat.
_Resistances._—Among the most violent resistances are bucking and rearing.
If the horse attempts to buck, press him forward with the legs and hold
his head high. The rider is more easily displaced if the horse bucks in
place. If the rider is not able to make the horse go forward, he should
turn him to the right or left with the snaffle bit. As all horses have
a soft and hard side to their mouths, when resistance is encountered in
turning to the right, the attempt should be made to turn him to the left.
When a horse rears, separate the reins, and take hold of the mane in the
left hand at about the middle of the neck. Lean forward, and when the
horse comes down again, push the body back into its place by quickly
straightening the arm.