[Illustration: TRACTION ENGINE.]
FARM ENGINES AND HOW TO RUN THEM
_THE YOUNG ENGINEER’S GUIDE_
A SIMPLE, PRACTICAL HAND BOOK, FOR EXPERTS AS WELL AS
FOR AMATEURS, FULLY DESCRIBING EVERY PART OF AN ENGINE
AND BOILER, GIVING FULL DIRECTIONS FOR THE SAFE AND
ECONOMICAL MANAGEMENT OF BOTH; ALSO SEVERAL
HUNDRED QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS OFTEN GIVEN IN
EXAMINATIONS FOR AN ENGINEER’S LICENSE, AND
CHAPTERS ON FARM ENGINE ECONOMY, WITH
SPECIAL ATTENTION TO TRACTION AND GASOLINE
FARM ENGINES, AND A CHAPTER ON
_The Science of Successful Threshing_
BY
JAMES H. STEPHENSON
_And Other Expert Engineers_
WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS SHOWING THE DIFFERENT
PARTS OF A BOILER AND ENGINE, AND NEARLY EVERY MAKE OF
TRACTION ENGINE, WITH A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DISTINCTIVE
POINTS IN EACH MAKE.
[Illustration]
CHICAGO
FREDERICK J. DRAKE & CO.
PUBLISHERS
COPYRIGHT, 1903
BY FREDERICK J. DRAKE & CO.
CHICAGO, ILL., U.S.A.
PREFACE
This book makes no pretensions to originality. It has taken the best
from every source. The author believes the matter has been arranged in
a more simple and effective manner, and that more information has been
crowded into these pages than will be found within the pages of any
similar book.
The professional engineer, in writing a book for young engineers, is
likely to forget that the novice is unfamiliar with many terms which
are like daily bread to him. The present writers have tried to avoid
that pitfall, and to define each term as it naturally needs definition.
Moreover, the description of parts and the definitions of terms have
preceded any suggestions on operation, the authors believing that the
young engineer should become thoroughly familiar with his engine and
its manner of working, before he is told what is best to do and not
to do. If he is forced on too fast he is likely to get mixed. The
test questions at the end of Chapter III. will show how perfectly the
preceding pages have been mastered, and the student is not ready to go
on till he can answer all these questions readily.
The system of questions and answers has its uses and its limitations.
The authors have tried to use that system where it would do most good,
and employ the straight narrative discussion method where questions
could not help and would only interrupt the progress of thought. Little
technical matter has been introduced, and that only for practical
purposes. The authors have had traction engines in mind for the most
part, but the directions will apply equally well to any kind of steam
engine.
The thanks of the publishers are due to the various traction engine
and threshing machine manufacturers for cuts and information, and
especially to the _Threshermen’s Review_ for ideas contained in its
“Farm Engine Economy,” to the J. I. Case Threshing Machine Co. for
the use of copyrighted matter in their “The Science of Successful
Threshing,” and to the manager of the Columbus Machine Co. for valuable
personal information furnished the authors on gasoline engines and how
to run them. The proof has been read and corrected by Mr. T. R. Butman,
known in Chicago for 25 years as one of the leading experts on engines
and boilers, especially boilers.
THE
YOUNG ENGINEERS’ GUIDE
CHAPTER I.
BUYING AN ENGINE.
There are a great many makes of good engines on the market to-day, and
the competition is so keen that no engine maker can afford to turn out
a very poor engine. This is especially true of traction engines. The
different styles and types all have their advantages, and are good in
their way. For all that, one good engine may be valueless for you, and
there are many ways in which you may make a great mistake in purchasing
an engine. The following points will help you to choose wisely:
1. Consider what you want an engine for. If it is a stationary engine,
consider the work to be done, the space it is to occupy, and what
conveniences will save your time. Remember, TIME IS MONEY, and that
means that SPACE IS ALSO MONEY. Choose the kind of engine that will be
most convenient for the position in which you wish to place it and the
purpose or purposes for which you wish to use it. If buying a traction
engine, consider also the roads and an engine’s pulling qualities.
2. If you are buying a traction engine for threshing, the first thing
to consider is FUEL. Which will be cheapest for you, wood, coal or
straw? Is economy of fuel much of an object with you--one that will
justify you in greater care and more scientific study of your engine?
Other things being equal, the direct flue, firebox, locomotive boiler
and simple engine will be the best, since they are the easiest to
operate. They are not the most economical under favorable conditions,
but a return flue boiler and a compound engine will cost you far more
than the possible saving of fuel unless you manage them in a scientific
way. Indeed, if not rightly managed they will waste more fuel than the
direct flue locomotive boiler and the simple engine.
3. Do not try to economize on the size of your boiler, and at the same
time never get too large an engine. If a 6-horse power boiler will just
do your work, an 8-horse power will do it better and more economically,
because you won’t be overworking it all the time. Engines should seldom
be crowded. At the same time you never know when you may want a higher
capacity than you have, or how much you may lose by not having it. Of
course you don’t want an engine and boiler that are too big, but you
should always allow a fair margin above your anticipated requirements.
4. Do not try to economize on appliances. You should have a good pump,
a good injector, a good heater, an extra steam gauge, an extra fusible
plug ready to put in, a flue expander and a beader. You should also
certainly have a good force pump and hose to clean the boiler, and the
best oil and grease you can get. Never believe the man who tells you
that something not quite the best is just as good. You will find it the
most expensive thing you ever tried--if you have wit enough to find out
how expensive it is.
5. If you want my personal advice on the proper engine to select for
various purposes, I should say by all means get a gasoline engine for
small powers about the farm, such as pumping, etc. It is the quickest
to start, by far the most economical to operate, and the simplest
to manage. The day of the small steam engine is past and will never
return, and ten gasoline engines of this kind are sold for every steam
engine put out. If you want a traction engine for threshing, etc.,
stick to steam. Gasoline engines are not very good hill climbers
because the application of power is not steady enough; they are not
very good to get out of mud holes with for the same reason, and as yet
they are not perfected for such purposes. You might use a portable
gasoline engine, however, though the application of power is not
as steady as with steam and the flywheels are heavy. In choosing a
traction steam engine, the direct flue locomotive boiler and simple
engine, though theoretically not so economical as the return flue
boiler and compound engine, will in many cases prove so practically
because they are so much simpler and there is not the chance to go
wrong with them that there is with the others. If for any reason you
want a very quick steamer, buy an upright. If economy of fuel is very
important and you are prepared to make the necessary effort to secure
it, a return flue boiler will be a good investment, and a really good
compound engine may be. Where a large plant is to be operated and a
high power constant and steady energy is demanded, stick to steam,
since the gasoline engines of the larger size have not proved so
successful, and are certainly by no means so steady; and in such a
case the exhaust steam can be used for heating and for various other
purposes that will work the greatest economy. For such a plant choose a
horizontal tubular boiler, set in masonry, and a compound engine (the
latter if you have a scientific engineer).
In general, in the traction engine, look to the convenience of
arrangement of the throttle, reverse lever, steering wheel, friction
clutch, independent pump and injector, all of which should be within
easy reach of the footboard, as such an arrangement will save annoyance
and often damage when quick action is required.
The boiler should be well set; the firebox large, with large grate
surface if a locomotive type of boiler is used, and the number of flues
should be sufficient to allow good combustion without forced draft.
A return flue boiler should have a large main flue, material of the
required 5-16-inch thickness, a mud drum, and four to six hand-holes
suitably situated for cleaning the boiler. There should be a rather
high average boiler pressure, as high pressure is more economical than
low. For a simple engine, 80 pounds and for a compound 125 pounds
should be minimum.
A stationary engine should have a solid foundation built by a mason who
understands the business, and should be in a light, dry room--never in
a dark cellar or a damp place.
Every farm traction engine should have a friction clutch.