FINISHING. POLISHING. TRIMMING. LINING.
The straw hat having now arrived at the stage where its actual
manufacture ceases, has still further to undergo the process of
embellishment necessary for its proper appearance on the counters of
the merchant, or in the showroom of the milliner. A great many hats
of the “Leghorn” variety leave the factories without any finish of
trimming or lining, but after they leave the blocking room they have to
undergo a process of polishing. This is done in one or two ways. The
“dry” way is for the hat to be put through a severe brushing, done by
rapidly revolving brushes carrying powdered sulphur, in an air shaft
which takes away the residue of the powder. This gives to the Leghorn
hat a velvety smoothness and incidentally imparts a richer colour,
owing to the sulphur that finds its way into the crevices of the straw
fibres; although the brushing is intended to leave the hat free from
the powder, in actual working that is found to be nearly impossible.
The other way is the “wet,” and in this case the hat is covered all
over with a thin paste, of which sulphur is the principal ingredient.
When dry the blocking process is gone through, and the hat subsequently
receives a brushing similar to the “dry” method, but in this case the
object of the brushing is to remove every available particle of the
dried paste. The advantage of this method is great where the colour of
the Leghorn is none too fine. The wet sulphur mixture has a bleaching
effect on the straw, and naturally tends to penetrate better into the
fibres and crevices than the powder alone. The result is that the tone
of the hat is immeasurably beautified and with a longer lasting colour
than is obtained by simply polishing with dry powder. When properly
brushed and ticketed Leghorns are then completely ready for the market.
Some few other kinds of hats go out without any trimming or lining,
but the processes they undergo will be set out in one or the other of
the following descriptions. Every kind of straw needs some variety of
treatment before the actual “Finishing,” but generally speaking these
treatments are confined to the darker coloured plaits. Thus for chip
plaits black receives a coating of some oil such as olive or nut, etc.
This levels up the colour of the plait and intensifies the black; all
other colours are simply cleared by steam, and receive no further
treatment. For plaits of actual straw various things have been used
during the course of time. The first method, when only black, navy blue
and brown colours were available, was to smartly brush the dry finished
hat with stiff hand-brushes. This imparted a fairly good shiny surface
to the straw, but it had two drawbacks, one was that the brushing
did not in any way improve the colour of the sometimes faultily-dyed
plaits, and the other was a tendency during the brushing of roughing
up the fibres of the straw. In those early days when lowness of price
was not the main consideration, many hats have been glossed by brushing
over with white of egg, but the expense of that rendered it useless
for the bulk of the goods. The “Japan Black,” that in the time of our
fathers was utilized every spring on the household grates, was also
tried on black straw hats, but its viscous nature was quite unsuitable
for the proper polishing of straw. It was not until about 1870 that a
polish made of some resinous gums and methylated spirit was put on the
straw hat market. For black this “polish” was tinted with a suitable
colouring matter, and at first the finding of the proper ingredient
that would remain in solution without precipitation was a long and
tedious job; however, this was eventually effected, and now for some
years the various best brands of straw hat spirit polish leave nothing
to be desired. A German firm, Messrs. Conrad Schmidt & Co., was about
the first to market in Great Britain a satisfactory spirit polish,
and with recurring improvements this brand of polish, now made by the
London Varnish Co., still obtains a large share of straw hat makers’
demands. Brown and blue spirit polishes were produced by dyeing the
gum and spirit mixture with an aniline dye. White spirit polish was of
two varieties, one nearly opaque white, and the other a clear fluid
with just a slight yellow tint. These can be used on all coloured
straws other than black, brown and navy, but many manufacturers omit
to polish the very light tones such as champagne, silver grey, sky
blue, etc. White, of course, is never polished. When spirit polish was
first introduced it was very costly, and on the advent of the China
plait to these markets, it was found to be rather out of proportion
expensive to the very cheap Canton hats. A polish made of ordinary glue
mixed with lamp black or charcoal was current in Luton about 1870, and
lasted in use for the lowest price goods until spirit polish became
a reasonable price. The glue polish often smelt very nasty, and was
always badly affected by a humid warm atmosphere. During the past few
years when so many varieties of fibre have been utilized for making
plaits, all kinds of polishing _media_ have been experimented with,
even the household bees’ wax and turpentine has not been left out in
the cold, but those that have made any lasting mark on the making of a
straw hat are all of them in some way combinations of gums and spirit.
The rapid evaporation of any liquid put on a blocked hat is an absolute
necessity, it must also not be able in any way to soften the gelatine
or other stiffening material, and it must leave a desired gloss on
the hat without being glassy or “fatty” looking. Further, it must not
materially harden the fibres. Some plaits are required quite bright;
for these ordinary straw hat polish is correct; others are wanted with
an “egg shell” shine, these are provided for in one or the other of the
“Lustres” and “Silk Finishes” that are to be obtained. In fact, to-day
there is no material of which hats are made that cannot be properly
polished. The last advantage of the spirit polish is that it gives
a slight water proofing to the ladies’ hat, and the mention of that
brings up the question of the waterproofing of men’s boaters. A boater
is generally made of rustic plait of which the saw-like edges lapping
over each other form a surface similar to a tiled roof, and if it were
possible to sew the plait with the serrations as regular as tiling,
the result would be showerproof, but such regularity is impossible,
and in order to make this most useful hat still more serviceable,
one or two patents have been taken out in the direction of making it
absolutely waterproof. As far as one can gather in the trade, the only
method of rendering straw hats rainproof now extensively used is that
known as the “Cravenette.” After the “shell” of the boater is sewn
and stiffened, a special powder is applied carefully over the entire
surface of the hat, after which a spray of the patent liquid is made
to evenly and thinly cover the powder causing it to dissolve and form
the waterproofing medium. After drying the hat is blocked in the usual
manner, and when done, only an expert can tell from sight that the hat
has been treated, as the colour is in no way deteriorated, nor are the
fibres of the straw changed in any manner.
The straw hat, whether boater for masculine wear or the ladies’
fashionable hat, is, when the polish or finish is quite dry, ready
for the attentions of the “Finisher” or “Trimmer.” In the early days
of the British trade, that is about a century ago, the work of the
finisher was very limited. Practically all that was done was to insert
some kind of temporary lining to the head fit, and affix a small tab
or ticket for reference purposes. Gradually as more intricate shapes
began to be in public favour, it was found necessary to add to the
above operations, by inserting at the edge of the brim a metal wire
covered with either cotton or silk. This had in view two purposes, the
first that by skilful bending and shaping the desired outline of the
brim could be produced, and the other was that when the proper form
was achieved, the support of the wire assisted in its retention. As
plaits of lace-like appearance came on the market (those of crinoline
and fancy adornments, for example) the temporary linings were made from
various colours of tissue paper. These not only permitted a possible
purchaser to see at a glance all the beauties of the plait, but
afforded means by which the bonnet could be tried on the head, with the
least chance of damage, either to the shape or the wearer’s hair. And
mentioning bonnets, up to 1860 so much predominant in public request,
and even to the present time, the wholesale manufacturer of them has
always used paper for the temporary lining for all made of chip or
fancy plaits, while for straws with their hard sharp heads, likely
to tear the tissue paper, the probably equally short lived lining
was made of fine white muslin. A common reason for these temporary
linings (for they were always removed by the milliner when trimming)
was that as bonnets were kept on the show counter or dispatched to
their destination, in sausage like rows where one bonnet nested in
another, the lining prevented any protuberance of the plaits used
from catching, and thus any part of the row could be taken from the
other with the greatest facility. But by 1850 hats began to assume a
considerable volume, and for these in addition to paper, which, of
course, was intended to be temporary, head-linings of sateen silk,
sarsenet, and other similar materials, gradually began to be used. They
were made with a draw cord at the edge intended to fall into the top
of the crown, where a “tip” of the same material was already in place.
The lining having been sewn, as it were, upside-down to the head entry
inside the crown, was turned over the stitches until the drawn cord
edge met the tip; this edge was then sewn to the circumference of the
crown, the draw-cord was tightened to make the lining sit exact to the
oval, and this operation was complete. But at that time and until about
1900 every hat was wired at its edge with a silk or cotton mixture
covered wire. This was made especially for the millinery trade, and
consisted of a fine iron wire, of which it was necessary to have the
“temper” even and ductile, so that when once bent there would be no
resilience, or “springing,” as it was known to straw workers. Parallel
to and all round the wire, which thus formed a core, were varying
numbers, according to the thickness ultimately required, of strands of
cotton. Around this was twisted the silk fibres, which at the same time
kept all in position, and made a glossy exterior to the wire. In some
qualities the silk laid so thickly as to show no break, while others
according to value, showed varying spaces between the silk spirals;
others of the cheapest qualities were entirely of cotton inside and
outside. The advantage of this cushion-like pad around the wire was
that stitches could be taken through it, and if affixed to the hat
or bonnet with a “slip-stitch,” no trace of the stitching could be
seen. The ladies’ hat trade also uses another variety of wire known
as “miniature.” This is wire of similar gauge to the “silk,” but it
has no padding, and consists solely of the metal and a silk or cotton
yarn covering. In putting this into or on any hat, it is, of course,
necessary to sew over and over as the closeness of the cover does
not permit of any needle penetration. In some kinds of hats of which
the brims are required hard and straight edged, steel wires of watch
spring-like temper are used, and in others strengthening and shaping
are assisted by strands of cane, cut into round strips, of different
gauges for various kinds of work. When the wiring of hats for female
wear became universal, machinery was introduced to put the wires at the
edges of the brims, but this was done only to hats of the lower grades,
because the stitch was very visible. Mention has been made of the tab
or ticket attached to the hat by the “finisher.” This is primarily, in
fact absolutely, for purposes of reference; the shape number, according
to the manufacturer’s registry, is written on it before dispatch,
together with any other special markings required by the purchaser,
but almost every wholesale distributing house in Paris, London, New
York, etc., etc., has some distinctive ticket. This generally bears a
trade mark, crest, or other sign peculiar to the house in question,
and may be of any colour; even black, with gold or silver printing,
has been used, and as they vary in marks and colours, so they vary in
size, from, say, 3/4 in. wide and 2 in. long, to even 2 in. wide to 4
in. long. Their shapes are very numerous, rhomboids ellipses, circles,
pentagons, conic sections, parallelograms, half-moons, stars, and all
other geometric-like forms may be found in ticket shapes, but the
major part of those used partake of a “sweep” that has some conformity
with the outline of the hat or bonnet.
Generally speaking, trimming a lady’s hat is the special province of
the milliner, and in this case, of course, hats are not confined to
those made of straw or plait, and, in fact, this is an industry of its
own, and is, therefore outside the scope of the making of a straw hat.
But for many years both ladies and gentlemen have worn what have been
at different epochs called “sailors” or “boaters.” The making of these
hats for men has nearly always been accompanied by the trimming; and
when, about 1880, women commenced to wear “sailors,” many of them were
dispatched from the St. Albans factories with some trimming. About 1890
the makers of ladies’ shaped hats of simple form began to add some
little adornment to them, and these were designated as “semi-trimmed.”
It is, therefore, quite inside the history of the straw hat to include
some account of men’s boaters, ladies’ sailors, and “semi-trimmed”
or ready-to-wear hats. The first straw hats to be trimmed by the
manufacturer were men’s boaters. Their trimming has not very materially
altered from the first output up to the present time. There was a
ribbon band and bow at left hand side on the outside of the crown, and
there was also some head lining. Anyone conversant with the boater of
to-day will recognize that these salient features are still maintained,
the only differences from time to time being in their nature and detail.
For the head linings, leather, flannel, cotton, imitation leather,
satin, and various other articles suitable for comfort to the head and
moisture absorption have been and are still used. The most material
change has been effected in the imitation leathers, which have now
been brought up to such a high standard of excellence from what one
might almost term “the lowest depths,” that they are very formidable
competitors of the real article. At the same time they do not quite
compare with good class leathers, which are still always used for the
best hats. Where boaters are lined with flannel, cotton or satin, they
are generally made in the form of a thin pad, and for certain markets
are much esteemed. The other part of the interior of a boater is
sometimes left without any other adornment, but generally the sides are
decorated with a lining of white open work net, and the top is covered
by a tip of silk, satin, sateen, or cotton, which generally has the
centre printed with the retailer’s name and address. For other markets
the side crowns inside are covered with materials similar to the tips,
in all kinds of colours, and arranged in both plain and fanciful
manners. The exact fitting of these head linings, or “sweatbands,” as
some term them, is an operation needing skill, and the work has been
rendered more easy by the invention of Mr. Bracher, of Stockport. This,
now known throughout the world as “Brachering” (pronounced Brashering)
consists of a small strip of material around a fine strand of cane or
other material, which is sewn by a special stitch machine to the lining
or leather, making at the same time a neat, untearable edge and a
convenient means for attachment to the hat.
From time to time various inventions have been made for the ventilation
of boaters, these generally consisting of some open work straw being
used at the base of the crown instead of the nearly impermeable rustic.
This, when covered with a thin band of ribbon, is not visible from the
outside, and affords some fair degree of air passage. Other methods
have been adopted by having a punctured edge to the sweat band, which
permitted air to freely circulate close to and all around the head of
the wearer. To increase the resiliency of the leather or imitation
leather lining, patents have been taken out for pneumatic surrounds,
forming an air cushion all round the hat, which incidentally allows in
the easiest manner for any discrepancies, and they are very common, in
the contour of the wearer’s skull. The various devices for increased
comfort and utility in boater linings are very numerous, and display
great ingenuity. The “Autoform” The “Bon-Ton-Ivy” and the “Eesola”
pads, each of them specialities of various makers of boater sweatbands,
present differing features creating resiliency around the head of the
wearer. These are produced by means of soft material insertions under
the leather or other lining, or of cellular impressions made in the
leather, or of a continuous roll all around the head fitting part, or
even of the insertion of a pneumatic tube, all creating a cushion like
addition to the flatness of the lining material. Each has its peculiar
merits, and for certain purposes are perfect in their utility. Some are
very little more costly than the plain leather, but others from the
extra material and work involved are naturally more expensive, but the
efforts of their manufacturers to raise the standards of quality and of
efficient comfort are such as to deserve special commendation.
The most recent development for ensuring the comfortable wear of the
hardest boater is that of an American inventor. Although the making
of straw hats from plait has been an established industry in the
United States for at least half a century, and the amazing increase of
the trade has been phenomenal, yet up to the present the name of an
American has not been written very prominently on the pages of straw
trade industry. It is true that the first machine to sew plait was the
product of an American firm, but, it was not really successful until it
had been altered and adapted by a Luton engineer; it is also true that
Mr. Bodsworth, an American, introduced a straw sewing machine, but as
previously stated, this was not a striking success, and although at the
present time the principal machine in the trade is made by an American
firm, it is the result of a Briton’s invention. And, therefore, it is
with pleasure that in this record of the trade a real invention, which
promises to be of the highest value to the boater trade, can be laid to
the credit of a citizen of the United States. Mr. Herbert L. Moses, of
Baltimore, has patented a device for attachment just inside the head
entry of a boater which consists of a floating, flexible band, held
in position about 1/8 of an inch from the hat by a series of stitches
at about half an inch intervals all round the crown. The principle is
that the stitches of cotton take the place of the spokes of a wheel
running inside another wheel, where a thrust in one part is compensated
for by a relaxation of the other parts. Over this is sewn the leather
sweat-band, or head lining of any other nature, attached to the hat in
the usual manner. The necessary machinery for the insertion of this
flexible _conformateur_, for that is actually what it amounts to, is
provided by means of mechanical attachments to any suitable sewing
machine. These attachments form the subject of another patent by the
same inventor, who has assigned his rights to Messrs. M. S. Levy &
Sons, of Baltimore, U.S.A. The peculiar features of this patent are,
first, the ease of fit conveyed to the wearer of the hat, and, second,
the great yield given by the device obviates to the utmost extent
the need for small intermediate sizes of the hats, for fitting the
many-shaped heads of customers.
Co-eval with the boater, and perhaps even a little earlier, was the
“Galatea” or “Jack Tar” for boys. This hat was founded on the shape of
the “Sinnett” rustic hat worn by sailors in the Navy for so many years.
The model was in use at the end of the eighteenth century (as pictures
of Lord Nelson’s sea fights clearly demonstrate) made both in straw and
in tarpaulin. It was quickly adopted for boy’s wear, and for many years
formed their summer hat. No boy could go to the seaside without one.
A painting, executed about 1850, illustrative of Queen Victoria, Prince
Albert, with the then Prince of Wales, afterward King Edward VII, shows
the Prince wearing a straw Galatea, and any observer of the pictures of
that time in the various periodicals such as _The Illustrated London
News_ and _Punch_, cannot fail to notice how popular this “Jack Tar”
style was among the youthful males.
The other department of trimming in the straw trade, that of the
“semi-trimmed” hats for ladies, is of comparatively recent origin
compared with the boater, for at most it can claim an existence of
only thirty to thirty-five years, but the trade has now grown to
such large dimensions that any account of the straw hat would be
incomplete without it. It commenced, as most things do, in the trade
that was done for some years in sailors for ladies. Those in the
main were on the same lines as those for men, that is they started
with square edge crowns, upright sides at right angle to a perfectly
flat brim. Developments of a fanciful nature in the brim formation
in the direction of what is known as a “Breton” sailor, of which
the characteristic is a slightly turned up edge, were the first to
be made, and subsequently crowns of softer outline with overhanging
tops attained for some time a great share of fashionable favour. But
to-day, with the exception of straw sailors for girls and young ladies
at school, there is very little demand for hats of this description.
But the trimming, which was nearly a necessity of these hats, had
established, in many factories, departments which on the decline of
their sale, required fresh openings, and attempts were made on “Alpine”
models, then in great vogue for ladies, which proved very successful.
This whetted the appetite of manufacturers, and all kinds of “ready to
wear” hats for sports were speedily on the market, one thing led to
another, and now all manner of shapes, toques, medium size, and picture
hats are being trimmed in a manner that from its departure from the
early extreme simplicity, seems to trench considerably upon what has
always been considered the proper domain of the milliner.
Telephone: LUTON 311
Telegrams: INGAB, LUTON
C. BAGNI
R. G. SQUIRES
C. BAGNI & CO.
CODES:
Schofield’s
Marconi’s
A.B.C.
Private
Importers and Exporters of
ITALIAN, CHINESE & JAPANESE
STRAW PLAITS
FOR HAT MANUFACTURE
36 Guildford Street
LUTON
BEDS.
INDEX
Arab hats, 5
Argos, 3
Austin, T. G., 12
Bamboo, 18
Bast, 3, 35
Black Forest, claims of, 6
Bleaching, history, 60
---- methods, 60, 62, 63
Blocking by hand, history, 93
---- tools, 93, 94, 98
---- methods, 96, 104
---- by machine, history, 100
---- ---- various machines, 101, 102, 106, 108
Blockmaking, history, 66
---- method, 67
---- woods used, 69
---- of plaster, 69
Bonnet, 5
British straw plaits, 11, 15, 18
---- ---- hats, 6, 9
Cesare Cantu, 9
Chinese plaits, 19
Compo, stiffening, 91
Cotton plaits, 18
Coryat’s crudities, 10
Dyeing, history, 52
---- methods, 53, 57, 58
---- plant, 54
Enamelling split, 91
Etruscans and Etruria, 3
Fastolfe, Sir John, 6
Fiesole, woven plait, 30
Finishing, 111
Franks, the, 3
Gerard, 3
Greeks, the, 3
Hemp for plaits, 18, 33
Hera, hat of, 3
Hood hats, preparation, 37
---- ----, method of making, 38
---- ----, Bankok, 42
---- ----, Bowen, 41
---- ----, Brazilian, 42-44
---- ----, chip, 42
---- ----, Curaçoa, 41
---- ----, hemp, 42
---- ----, Hinoki, 41
---- ----, Java, 41
---- ----, Leghorn, 14, 71
---- ----, Manila, 42
---- ----, Panama, 36
---- ----, paper, 42
---- ----, raffia, 43
---- ----, rush, 42
---- ----, Yedda, 43
Horsehair plaits, 18
Italian plaits, 10, 14
Japanese plaits, 19
Kausia, 2
La Croix, 3
“La dame au chapeau de Poil,” 8
Leathers for lining, 119
Leghorn, 13
Lining hats, 115
Machines, sewing, 21, 22, 23
----, blocking, 24
----, plaiting, 49
Machines, milling, 82
Mary, Queen of Scots, 10
Mercury, hat of, 3
Milan or Pedale, 19
Oiling chip hats, 112
Oldmixon, 11
Pausanias, 3
Penelope, hat of, 4
Pepys, 7
Petasus, 2
Plaits, bamboo, 18
----, bast, 35
----, cotton, 18
----, hemp, 18
----, horsehair, 18
----, raffia, 18
----, rush, 35
----, rye straw, 7, 14
----, silk, 18
----, sinnet, 35, 112
----, Tuscan, 14
----, wheat straw, 14
----, wood shavings, 18
----, yedda, 35
Plaitters, 28, 29
Plaitting centres:
Belgium, 30
China, 19
Dunstable, 15
Essex, 15
Hemel Hempstead, 15
Japan, 19
Panama, 36
Ripon (Yorks), 15
Saxony, 33
Switzerland, 18
---- machines, 49
---- methods, 27, 30, 32, 45
Poetical allusions:
Ben Jonson, 7
Gay, 9
Shakespeare, 7
Spenser, 6
Thynne, 6
Virgil, 5
Polishing, 112
Pompeii, 4
Praxiteles, 3
Preparation of straws, 25
---- of chip, 33
Romans, the early, 3
Rubens, Peter Paul, 8
Rye straw, 7, 14
Semi-trimmed hats, 122
Sewing, hand method, 72, 76
----, machine method, 73, 81
---- machines, 21, 22, 23, 73
Signa, 10
Sparterie, 51
Speckled plaits, 57
Splitting of straws, 27
Stephanos, 3
Stiffening, history, 84
---- materials, 85, 88, 90
---- method, 86, 88, 90
Straw, 3
---- pipes, 16
---- splints, 16
---- splitters, 17
Swiss plaits, 18
Tagal, 34
Tansley, 17
Tégal, 34
Ticketing, 117
Tippers, 70
Tomlinson, 13
Trimming, 118
Tuscan plait, 14
Tutulus, 4
Twist plait, 19
Vatican, 3
Virgil, pastorals, 5
Waller, John, 11
Waterproofing, 114
Wiring, 115
_Printed in Bath, England, by Sir Isaac Pitman & Sons, Ltd._
_and_
_A Barry Hat_
GUARANTEED
_surpasses all_
_The production of_
FRANCOIS BARRY,
83 GREAT PORTLAND ST., LONDON, W.1
CABLE ADDRESS:
IMMEDIATE, LUTON
TELEPHONE NO.
20 LUTON
WELCH & SONS, Ltd.
LUTON BEDS, ENGLAND
IMPORTERS AND EXPORTERS
OF ALL KINDS OF
JAPANESE, CHINESE, ITALIAN
and SUISSE
PLAITS
For HAT MANUFACTURE
BLEACHING A SPECIALITY
_Codes_:
ABC 4th & 5th Editions
ABC 5th Improved
LIEBERS
LIEBERS IMPROVED
_Codes_:
Western Union
Bentley’s
Marconi Vol. I
PRIVATE
MANUFACTURERS OF
LADIES’, MAIDS’ and
CHILDREN’S HATS
TRIMMED AND UNTRIMMED
ALLEN & SON, LTD.
ESTABLISHED 1892
'PHONE 124 LUTON
59-61 BUTE STREET
LUTON, BEDS
ENGLAND
_Telegrams: KERSHAW, LUTON_
Telephone Nos.:
LUTON, 742, 743
(Branch Exchange).
_J. C. Kershaw & Co. Limited_
Ladies’ and Men’s
Straw and Felt Hat Manufacturers
and Plait Merchants
Codes:
A.B.C. 5TH EDITION.
BENTLEYS.
MARCONI.
George Street, _Luton_
_Use_
Willcox & Gibbs
“HANDSTITCH”
for making the Concealed Stitch
so essential in all first-class work.
UNAPPROACHED ON ANY PLAIT.
_All best grade hats are made with the world-famed
“Handstitch.”_
_The_ W. & G.
VISIBLE STITCH
Straw Hat Machines
are Fast-running, Economical,
Adaptable and Durable.
* * * * *
_Both types of machines are extensively used in all
plait-sewing centres throughout the world._
Willcox & Gibbs
Sewing Machine Co., Ltd.
_Chief Office_: 20 Fore Street, London, E.C.2.
_Luton Office_: Silver Street.
[Illustration]
PATENT No. 182035
FOREIGN PATENTS PENDING
BROWN & GREEN Ltd.
* * * * *
_Hatters’ Machinery Manufacturers_
* * * * *
Windsor Street, Castle Street
& South Road
LUTON, BEDS, ENGLAND
ESTABLISHED 1840 (THE OLDEST ESTABLISHED HOUSE IN THE TRADE)
Telephone 104 Luton.
Telegrams “Gem Luton.”
<--_This is our latest pattern_
HAT BLOCKING
MACHINE
AND HAS BEEN DESIGNED TO SUPPLY A LONG-FELT NEED,
VIZ.--
A MACHINE IN WHICH THE OPERATOR HAS COMPLETE VISIBILITY OF HIS
WORK,
WHERE THE BLOCKING OPERATION IS CONTINUOUS,
WHERE HEAVY LIFTING IS ELIMINATED,
WHERE SUPERFLUOUS STEAM IS ELIMINATED,
WHERE YOU GET A MUCH GREATER OUTPUT,
WHERE _TWO_ CHAMBERS ARE WORKING CONTINUALLY INSTEAD OF ONE,
WHERE BLOCKING IS ALMOST MADE FOOLPROOF.
ALL CASTINGS ARE OF THE BEST MATERIAL: HEAVY WHERE REQUIRED AND
NEAT IN APPEARANCE AND ARE STANDARDIZED THROUGHOUT.
THIS MACHINE HAS BEEN TESTED UNDER WORKING CONDITIONS WITH
EVERY SUCCESS AND WE CLAIM IT TO BE THE MOST PERFECT MACHINE IN
USE.
ALL MACHINES ARE TESTED TO HEAVY HYDRAULIC PRESSURE BEFORE
LEAVING OUR WORKS AND A CERTIFICATE OF TEST SUPPLIED IF DESIRED.
PRACTICAL DEMONSTRATIONS CAN BE ARRANGED AT OUR WORKS AT ANY
TIME.
MADE FOR EITHER HAND OR POWER.
* * * * *
BROWN & GREEN Ltd.
* * * * *
_Hatters’ Machinery Manufacturers_
* * * * *
Windsor Street, Castle Street
& South Road
LUTON, BEDS, ENGLAND
ESTABLISHED 1840 (THE OLDEST ESTABLISHED HOUSE IN THE TRADE)
Telephone 104 Luton.
Telegrams “Gem Luton.”
Telegraphic Address:
“HONORFIDES,
LUTON”
Telephone Nos.
1018 and 1019 (Hats)
500 (Plaits)
Codes: A B C (4th and 5th Editions) and Bentley’s
A. HUCKLESBY & Co.
LIMITED
Plait Merchants
Hat Manufacturers
* * * * *
LATEST STYLES in HATS
OF ALL KINDS
Straws, Felts, Velvets, Panamas, etc.
Agents and Importers of
Straw Plaits and Braids
RIBBONS, GELATINES, COTTONS, CANE, PAPER,
RUBBER GOODS, and all HAT MAKERS’ REQUISITES
STOCKED
* * * * *
_Warehouses and Showrooms_:
46 & 48 George St.,
and
1, 2 & 3 Bond St.
_Factories_:
Upper George Street
FOR LADIES’ GOODS
John Street
FOR MEN’S AND BOYS’ HATS
LUTON
A LIST OF BOOKS
PUBLISHED BY
Sir Isaac Pitman & Sons, Ltd.
(_Incorporating WHITTAKER & CO._)
PARKER STREET, KINGSWAY,
LONDON, W.C.2
The prices given apply only to the British Isles, and are
subject to alteration without notice.
* * * * *
=A complete Catalogue giving full details of the following=
=books will be sent post free on application.=
* * * * *
_ALL PRICES ARE NET._
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ACCUMULATORS, MANAGEMENT OF. Sir D. Salomons 7 6
AEROFOILS AND RESISTANCE OF AERODYNAMIC
BODIES, PROPERTIES OF. A. W. Judge 18 0
AERONAUTICAL DESIGN AND CONSTRUCTION,
ELEMENTARY PRINCIPLES OF. A. W. Judge 7 8
AERONAUTICS, ELEMENTARY. A. P. Thurston 8 6
AERONAUTICAL ENGINEERING, TEXT-BOOK OF. A. Klemin 15 0
AEROPLANES, DESIGN OF. A. W. Judge 14 0
AEROPLANE STRUCTURAL DESIGN. T. H. Jones
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AEROPLANES AND AIRSHIPS. W. E. Dommett 1 9
AIRCRAFT AND AUTOMOBILE MATERIALS--FERROUS.
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ALTERNATING CURRENT MACHINERY, PAPERS ON
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ALTERNATING-CURRENT WORK. W. Perren Maycock 10 6
ARCHITECTURAL HYGIENE. B. F. and H. P. Fletcher 10 6
ARITHMETIC OF ALTERNATING CURRENTS. E. H. Crapper 4 6
ARITHMETIC OF ELECTRICAL ENGINEERING. Whittaker’s 3 6
ARITHMETIC OF TELEGRAPHY AND TELEPHONY.
T. E. Herbert and R. G. de Wardt 5 0
ARMATURE CONSTRUCTION. H. M. Hobart and
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ARTIFICIAL SILK AND ITS MANUFACTURE. J.
Foltzer. Translated by S. Woodhouse 21 0
ASTRONOMERS, GREAT. Sir R. Ball 7 6
ASTRONOMY FOR EVERYBODY. Prof. S. Newcombe 7 6
ASTRONOMY FOR GENERAL READERS. G. F. Chambers 4 0
AUTOMOBILE AND AIRCRAFT ENGINES. A. W. Judge 30 0
AUTOMOBILE IGNITION AND VALVE TIMING, STARTING
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BAUDÔT PRINTING TELEGRAPH SYSTEM. H. W. Pendry 6 0
BLUE PRINTING AND MODERN PLAN COPYING. B. J. Hall 6 0
BREWING AND MALTING. J. Ross Mackenzie 8 6
CABINET MAKING, ART AND CRAFT OF. D. Denning 7 6
CALCULUS FOR ENGINEERING STUDENTS. J. Stoney 3 6
CARPENTRY AND JOINERY. B. F. and H. P. Fletcher 10 6
CERAMIC INDUSTRIES POCKET BOOK. A. B. Searle 8 6
CHEMICAL ENGINEERING, INTRODUCTION TO. A. F. Allen 10 6
CHEMISTRY, A FIRST BOOK OF. A. Coulthard 4 6
COAL MINING, MODERN PRACTICE OF. Kerr and
Burns. Part 1, 5/-; Parts 2, 3 and 4, each 6 0
COLOUR IN WOVEN DESIGN: A TREATISE ON
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COMPRESSED AIR POWER. A. W. and Z. W. Daw 21 0
CONTINUOUS-CURRENT DYNAMO DESIGN, ELEMENTARY
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CONTINUOUS CURRENT MOTORS AND CONTROL APPARATUS.
W. Perren Maycock 7 6
DETAIL DESIGN OF MARINE SCREW PROPELLERS.
D. H. Jackson 6 0
DIRECT CURRENT ELECTRICAL ENGINEERING. J. R. Barr 15 0
DIRECT CURRENT ELECTRICAL ENGINEERING, THE
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DIVING MANUAL AND HANDBOOK OF SUBMARINE
APPLIANCES. R. H. Davis 7 6
DRAWING AND DESIGNING. C. G. Leland 3 6
DRAWING, MANUAL INSTRUCTION. S. Barter 4 0
DRESS, BLOUSE, AND COSTUME CLOTHS, DESIGN
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DYNAMO, HOW TO MANAGE THE. A. R. Bottone 2 0
DYNAMO: ITS THEORY, DESIGN AND MANUFACTURE,
THE. C. C. Hawkins. Vol. I 21 0
ELECTRIC LIGHT FITTING: A TREATISE ON WIRING
FOR LIGHTING, HEATING, &C. S. C. Batstone 6 0
ELECTRICAL INSTRUMENT MAKING FOR AMATEURS.
S. R. Bottone 6 0
ELECTRIC BELLS AND ALL ABOUT THEM. S. R. Bottone 3 6
ELECTRIC CIRCUIT THEORY AND CALCULATIONS.
W. Perren Maycock 10 6
ELECTRIC GUIDES. HAWKINS’. 10 volumes, each 5 0
ELECTRIC MINING MACHINERY. S. F. Walker 15 0
ELECTRIC MOTORS AND CONTROL SYSTEMS. A. T. Dover 18 0
ELECTRIC MOTORS--CONTINUOUS, POLYPHASE AND
SINGLE-PHASE MOTORS. H. M. Hobart
ELECTRIC MOTORS, A SMALL BOOK ON. C.C. AND
A.C. W. Perren Maycock 6 0
ELECTRIC LIGHTING AND POWER DISTRIBUTION.
Vol. I. W. Perren Maycock 10 6
ELECTRIC LIGHTING AND POWER DISTRIBUTION.
Vol. II. W. Perren Maycock 10 6
ELECTRIC LIGHTING IN THE HOME. L. Gaster 6
ELECTRIC LIGHTING IN FACTORIES. L. Gaster and
J. S. Dow 6
ELECTRIC TRACTION. A. T. Dover 21 0
ELECTRIC WIRING, FITTINGS, SWITCHES AND LAMPS.
W. Perren Maycock 10 6
ELECTRIC WIRING DIAGRAMS. W. Perren Maycock 5 0
ELECTRIC WIRING TABLES. W. Perren Maycock 5 0
ELECTRICAL ENGINEERS’ POCKET BOOK. Whittaker’s 10 6
ELECTRICAL INSTRUMENTS IN THEORY AND PRACTICE.
Murdoch and Oschwald 12 6
ELECTRICAL MACHINES, PRACTICAL TESTING OF.
L. Oulton and N. J. Wilson 6 0
ELECTRICAL TRANSMISSION OF PHOTOGRAPHS. M. J.
Martin 6 0
ELECTRICITY AND MAGNETISM, FIRST BOOK OF. W.
Perren Maycock 6 0
ELECTRO MOTORS: HOW MADE AND HOW USED.
S. R. Bottone 4 6
ELECTRO-PLATERS’ HANDBOOK. G. E. Bonney 5 0
ELECTRO-TECHNICS, ELEMENTS OF. A. P. Young 7 6
ENGINEER DRAUGHTSMEN’S WORK: HINTS TO BEGINNERS
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ENGINEERING SCIENCE, PRIMER OF. E. S. Andrews.
Part 1, 3s.; Part 2, 2s. 6d.; Complete 4 6
ENGINEERING WORKSHOP EXERCISES. E. Pull 3 6
ENGINEERS’ AND ERECTORS’ POCKET DICTIONARY:
ENGLISH, GERMAN, DUTCH. W. H. Steenbeek 2 6
ENGLISH FOR TECHNICAL STUDENTS. F. F. Potter. 2 0
EXPERIMENTAL MATHEMATICS. G. R. Vine
Book I, with Answers 1 4
Book II, with Answers 1 4
EXPLOSIVES, HISTORICAL PAPERS ON MODERN. G.
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EXPLOSIVES INDUSTRY, RISE AND PROGRESS OF
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FIELD MANUAL OF SURVEY METHODS AND OPERATIONS.
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FIELD WORK FOR SCHOOLS. E. H. Harrison and
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FILES AND FILING. Fremont and Taylor 21 0
FITTING, PRINCIPLES OF. J. G. Horner 7 6
FIVE FIGURE LOGARITHMS. W. E. Dommett 1 6
FLAX CULTURE AND PREPARATION. F. Bradbury 10 6
FUSELAGE DESIGN. A. W. Judge 3 0
GAS, GASOLENE AND OIL ENGINES. J. B. Rathbun 8 0
GAS ENGINE TROUBLES AND INSTALLATIONS. J.
B. Rathbun 8 0
GAS AND OIL ENGINE OPERATION. J. Okill 5 0
GAS, OIL, AND PETROL ENGINES: INCLUDING
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GAS SUPPLY IN PRINCIPLES AND PRACTICE. W.
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GEOMETRY, THE ELEMENTS OF PRACTICAL PLANE.
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GEOLOGY, ELEMENTARY. A. J. Jukes-Browne 3 0
GERMAN GRAMMAR FOR SCIENCE STUDENTS. W.
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GRAPHIC STATICS, ELEMENTARY. J. T. Wight 5 0
HANDRAILING FOR GEOMETRICAL STAIRCASES. W.
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HEAT, LIGHT AND SOUND. J. R. Ashworth 2 6
HIGH HEAVENS, IN THE. Sir R. Ball 10 6
HOSIERY MANUFACTURE. W. Davis 9 0
HYDRAULIC MOTORS AND TURBINES. G. R. Bodmer 15 0
ILLUMINANTS AND ILLUMINATING ENGINEERING,
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INDICATOR HANDBOOK. C. N. Pickworth 7 6
INDUCTION COILS. G. E. Bonney 6 0
INDUCTION COIL, THEORY OF THE. E. Taylor-Jones 12 6
INSULATION OF ELECTRIC MACHINES. H. W.
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IONIC VALVE, GUIDE TO STUDY OF THE. W. D. Owen 2 6
IRONFOUNDING PRACTICAL. J. G. Horner 10 0
LEATHER WORK. C. G. Leland 5 0
LEKTRIK LIGHTING CONNECTIONS. W. Perren Maycock 1 0
LENS WORK FOR AMATEURS. H. Orford 3 6
LIGHTNING CONDUCTORS AND LIGHTNING GUARDS.
Sir O. Lodge 15 0
LOGARITHMS FOR BEGINNERS. C. N. Pickworth 1 6
MACHINE DRAWING, PREPARATORY COURSE TO.
P. W. Scott 2 0
MAGNETISM AND ELECTRICITY, AN INTRODUCTORY
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MAGNETO AND ELECTRIC IGNITION. W. Hibbert 3 6
MANURING LAND, TABLES FOR MEASURING AND.
J. Cullyer 3 0
MARINE ENGINEERS, PRACTICAL ADVICE for. C.
W. Roberts 5 0
MATHEMATICAL TABLES. W. E. Dommett 4 6
MATHEMATICS, MINING (PRELIMINARY). G. W.
Stringfellow 1 6
With Answers Do. 2 0
MECHANICAL ENGINEERING DETAIL TABLES. J. P. Ross 7 6
MECHANICAL ENGINEERS’ POCKET BOOK. Whittaker’s 12 6
MECHANICAL TABLES. J. Foden 2 0
MECHANICS’ AND DRAUGHTSMEN’S POCKET BOOK.
W. E. Dommett 2 6
METAL TURNING. J. G. Horner 4 0
METAL WORK--REPOUSSÉ. C. G. Leland 5 0
METAL WORK, TEACHER’S HANDBOOK. J. S. Miller 4 0
METRIC AND BRITISH SYSTEMS OF WEIGHTS AND
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METRIC CONVERSION TABLES. W. E. Dommett 2 6
MILLING, MODERN. E. Pull 9 0
MINERALOGY : THE CHARACTERS OF MINERALS,
THEIR CLASSIFICATION AND DESCRIPTION. F. H.
Hatch 6 0
MOTION PICTURE OPERATION, STAGE ELECTRICS
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Tousley 7 6
MOTOR TRUCK AND AUTOMOBILE MOTORS AND
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MOTOR BOATS, HYDROPLANES AND HYDROAEROPLANES.
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MOVING LOADS ON RAILWAY UNDERBRIDGES. H. Bamford 5 6
NAVAL DICTIONARY, ITALIAN-ENGLISH AND
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OPTICAL INSTRUMENTS, MODERN. H. Orford 4 0
OPTICS OF PHOTOGRAPHY AND PHOTOGRAPHIC
LENSES. J. T. Taylor 4 0
PATTERN-MAKING, PRINCIPLES OF. J. G. Horner 4 0
PIPES AND TUBES: THEIR CONSTRUCTION AND
JOINTING. P. R. Björling 6 6
PLYWOOD AND GLUE, MANUFACTURE AND USE OF,
THE. B. C. Boulton 7 6
POLYPHASE CURRENTS. A. Still 7 6
POWER WIRING DIAGRAMS. A. T. Dover 7 6
PRACTICAL ELECTRIC LIGHT FITTING. F. C. Allsop
PRACTICAL SHEET AND PLATE METAL WORK. E.
A. Atkins 10 0
QUANTITIES AND QUANTITY TAKING. W. E. Davis 6 0
RADIO-TELEGRAPHIST’S GUIDE AND LOG BOOK.
W. H. Marchant 5 6
RAILWAY TECHNICAL VOCABULARY. L. Serraillier 7 6
REINFORCED CONCRETE. W. N. Twelvetrees 21 6
REINFORCED CONCRETE BEAMS AND COLUMNS,
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REINFORCED CONCRETE MEMBERS, SIMPLIFIED
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REINFORCED CONCRETE, DETAIL DESIGN IN.
E. S. Andrews 6 0
ROSES AND ROSE GROWING. R. G. Kingsley 7 6
RUSSIAN WEIGHTS AND MEASURES, TABLES OF.
Redvers Elder 2 6
SAFE LOADS ON STEEL PILLARS, TABLES OF. E. S.
Andrews 6 0
SLIDE RULE. A. L. Higgins 6
SLIDE RULE. C. N. Pickworth 3 6
SOIL, SCIENCE OF THE. C. Warrell 3 6
STARRY REALMS, IN. Sir R. Ball 10 6
STEAM TURBINE THEORY AND PRACTICE. W. J.
Kearton 15 0
STEAM TURBO-ALTERNATOR, THE. L. C. Grant 15 0
STEEL WORKS ANALYSIS. J. O. Arnold and F.
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STORAGE BATTERY PRACTICE. R. Rankin 7 6
STRESSES IN HOOKS AND OTHER CURVED BEAMS.
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SUBMARINE VESSELS, ETC. W. E. Dommett 5 0
SURVEYING AND SURVEYING INSTRUMENTS. G. A.
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SURVEYING, TUTORIAL LAND AND MINE. T. Bryson 10 6
TECHNICAL DICTIONARY, INTERNATIONAL. E. Webber 15 0
TELEGRAPHY: AN EXPOSITION OF THE TELEGRAPH
SYSTEM OF THE BRITISH POST OFFICE. T. E. Herbert 18 0
TELEGRAPHY, ELEMENTARY. H. W. Pendry 7 6
TELEPHONE HANDBOOK AND GUIDE TO THE
TELEPHONIC EXCHANGE, PRACTICAL. J. Poole 15 0
TEXTILE CALCULATIONS. G. H. Whitwam 25 0
TRANSFORMERS FOR SINGLE AND MULTIPHASE
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TRIGONOMETRY FOR ENGINEERS, PRIMER OF. W. G.
Dunkley 5 0
TRIPLANE AND THE STABLE BIPLANE. J. C. Hunsaker 3 0
TURRET LATHE TOOLS, HOW TO LAY OUT 6 0
UNION TEXTILE FABRICATION. R. Beaumont 21 0
VENTILATION, PUMPING, AND HAULAGE, THE
MATHEMATICS OF. F. Birks 5 0
VOLUMETRIC ANALYSIS. J. B. Coppock 3 6
WATER MAINS, THE LAY-OUT OF SMALL. H. H. Hellins 7 6
WATERWORKS FOR URBAN AND RURAL DISTRICTS.
H. C. Adams 15 0
WIRELESS FOR THE HOME. N. P. Hinton 2 0
WIRELESS POCKET BOOK, MARINE. W. H. Marchant 6 0
WIRELESS TELEGRAPHY AND HERTZIAN WAVES.
S. R. Bottone 3 6
WIRELESS TELEGRAPHY: A PRACTICAL HANDBOOK
FOR OPERATORS AND STUDENTS. W. H. Marchant 7 6
WOOD-BLOCK PRINTING. F. Morley Fletcher 8 6
WOODCARVING. C. G. Leland 7 6
WOODWORK, MANUAL INSTRUCTION. S. Barter 7 6
WOOL SUBSTITUTES. R. Beaumont 10 6
_Catalogue of Scientific and Technical Books post free._
* * * * *
LONDON: SIR ISAAC PITMAN & SONS, LTD
PARKER STREET. KINGSWAY, W.C.2
BEST VALUE IN THE MARKET
PANAMA
HATS
Merchants, Shippers & Wholesale Houses
REQUIRING
PANAMA HATS
Should correspond with
_GREGORY & SONS_
8 & 9, NEW ZEALAND AVENUE,
LONDON, E.C.1
who are experts in the Trade, and are
The Largest Importers in
Great Britain
* * * * *
_Telegrams_:
“GREGORIO, LONDON.”
_Codes_:
BENTLEYS,
A B C (5th Edition)
LIEBER’S
_Telephone No._:
CITY 1755
COIGNET’S
GELATINES
COIGNET No. 1
PARIS-LYON
BRANDS
COIGNET No. 2
PARIS-LYON
_Established in 1818_
Were the first to
be used for stiffening
straw hats
and are still
. . the best . .
* * * * *
_For Samples and Prices apply to_
Société des Produits Chimiques
COIGNET
PARIS: 114 Boulevard Magenta (X^e)
LONDON: 90 Fenchurch Street (E.C.3)
NEW YORK: 17 State Street
=Transcriber’s Notes=
Minor punctuation errors have been corrected.
The following typos have been corrected.
p. 18. “plaits similiar” changed to “plaits similar”.
p. 24. “Legat” changed to “Légat”.
p. 70. “of a models’” changed to “of a model’s”.
p. 78. “the headfit” changed to “the head fit”.
p. 120. “in the easist manner” changed to “in the easiest manner”.
Index “Tegal” changed to “Tégal”.