DOVER--BRIGHTON--CALAIS.
Arrived at 7.30 P. M. and took room at Hotel de Paris--a
high-sounding name; but not very Parisian was the institution; however,
it was neat and every way good and worthy. Took tea, and then a walk
out. As before intimated, we are now in a southern border-town, and the
waters of the Channel wash its shore.
Dover is 62 miles southeast of London, and 21 miles northwest from the
coast of France, being England's nearest seaport. The population is
28,270 of permanent residents, but it varies by reason of its large
number of hotel boarders. It is situated on a small but beautiful bay,
and is of an amphitheatre form, between lofty cliffs, and alongshore
by the valley of a small river called the Dour. The older portion
is rather poorly and irregularly built, and is principally on one
street that runs parallel to the river, or valley, and having hills
as a background. The newer part is along the shore of the bay, and
consists of watering-place hotels, boarding-houses, and aristocratic
private residences, many of which have fine grounds about them. These
continue for a mile or more, and at the lower end terminate at lofty
chalk-cliffs of a stupendous height,--producing a grand and unusual
appearance, being very precipitous and of a chalky whiteness. In front
of the buildings named is a grand watering-place promenade-avenue,
in front of which, the entire length, is a pebbly beach, and this is
washed by the waters of the bay. Thousands of people, old and young,
were here, and much of gay life and fashion displayed. Never will
be lost sight of the grand entertainment we thus had, and which was
so unexpected to us. The harbor consists of three basins, though in
general appearance but one; and the entrance of the harbor is sheltered
by a pier or breakwater of stone, 1,700 feet long.
The castle of Dover is one of the interesting edifices in England. It
stands on one of the great hills, a short distance from the town,
and its walls inclose thirty-five acres. It is supposed to have been
founded by the Romans; but some portions of it are Saxon, some Norman,
and some belong to a later period. It contains a separate keep, as it
is called, now used as a magazine, and other parts are barracks for
2,000 men. Within the castle precincts stands an octagonal watch-tower,
interesting not only as the earliest specimen of Roman architecture in
England, but also as one of the most ancient examples of mason-work in
Great Britain.
This town is one of very great antiquity. In the neighborhood of Dover,
Julius Cæsar made his first attempt to land on the British coast. The
antiquity of this event is made more apparent by a remembrance of the
fact that he died 44 years before Christ. We are informed by history
that "he was induced to change his point of debarkation, owing to the
abruptness of the shore and other difficulties." Under the Saxon kings
it became a position of great importance in the defence of Kent, which
was then all of the southern part of England.
In the reign of Edward the Confessor, who died in 1066, this was one of
what were called the Five, or Cinque Ports; the others were Hastings,
Romney, Hythe, and Sandwich. As these ports were opposite to France,
they received peculiar advantages in the early days of English history,
on condition of providing in times of war a certain number of ships
at their own expense. They were governed by an officer called the
Lord-warden of the Cinque Ports. The Duke of Wellington was lord-warden
of them at the time of his death, which was at the official residence,
Walmer Castle, near Deal, Sept. 14, 1852.
According to Camden, the first warden was appointed by William the
Conqueror, who died in 1087, but their charter has been traced directly
to the times of Edward the Saxon king, as before named. This port
was considered as the key of the kingdom. After the establishment of
Norman rule, it suffered the vengeance of William the Conqueror, to
whom it made strong opposition. In 1213 King John performed at Dover
the ceremony of submission to the Pope, giving up his authority to the
papal nuncio.
In 1295 the French made a descent upon the place and committed great
depredations; and so for centuries it was the theatre of attacks
and defences, but we pass all, intimating, however, that no more
interesting history exists than that relating to these invasions of
the territory of England by the various people who had an eye to the
possession of new territory,--for which practice England herself has
for centuries been celebrated, and which found its last expression in
obtaining possession of Cyprus.
In 1847 a mass from one of the chalk-cliffs scaled off and fell to the
base. It was 254 feet in height, 15 feet thick, and was calculated
to weigh 48,000 tons. Shortly after, another fell, of 10,000 cubic
yards. The principal cliff is 350 feet high above the water, which is
more than half as high again as our Bunker Hill Monument. Another,
called Shakespeare's Cliff, is located just in the rear of, and is
a background of, the town, and is perforated by the tunnel of the
Southeastern Railway.
Nothing is or can be more picturesque and grand than these chalk-white,
clean-faced, and very perpendicular walls, covered as they are on
their top and rear slopes with a splendid grass verdure. The blue
water of the bay; the old weather-beaten part of the city,--quite
European, though not all antique; and the long line of fine beach; the
grand avenue above it, so alive with gay teams and pleasure-seekers;
the mile-range of hotels and mansions; and to the left, the lofty
promontory land, with the castle on its top and the high lands
extending well out into the sea, its waves beating at times grandly
against these milk-white ramparts,--this group of things forms a scene
of remarkable splendor and interest. Our stay here was exceedingly
pleasant and was exhilarating in the extreme. We, the next A.
M. at 9.30, took our steamer for Calais, which is the nearest port
of France, 21 miles over the channel.
Before, however, closing our work, we will speak of one more place
in England,--in a sense a counterpart of Dover. It is the famed
watering-place, Brighton. Though we did not visit it for some months
after this,--till on the 10th of August,--yet as it is the only place
of England we visited not yet described, we take occasion to speak of
it now, and so complete our record.
BRIGHTON.
We took cars at London for Brighton one Saturday night, and after
a two hours' ride arrived at the famed watering-place. The first
impression was that we were in a large and old place, and in anything
but one to which people would resort for pleasure; for the place in the
vicinity of the station, and especially for the entire length of a long
street leading down from it, had a very commercial and business-like
appearance; and, as we passed down its entire length and looked to the
right and left, compactly built streets, houses, and shops, and even
fine stores and warehouses, seemed to extend as far as the eye could
reach; no tree nor garden, nor even front-yard anywhere, but one mass
of solid buildings, and surely a great population.
Our only hope and tangible evidence that we had not mistaken this
for the watering-place Brighton--as we had mistaken the little
fishing-place Wells, for the cathedral town--was a very large lot of
well-to-do, stylishly dressed people, all passing down this great main
street. We of course followed, for just then we considered ourselves
watering-place visitors, and so in a sense aristocratic. At length
the end of the street gained, all fears were dispelled, for there in
front lay the grand harbor, and for aught we could see to the contrary,
thousands of miles of good ocean were stretching out from it.
Here, as at Dover, was a grand avenue, along for some two or three
miles, with a most remarkable shore, and its fine beach extending
for miles. A very good cut-stone wall is built the entire length of
the city, dividing the beach from the grand avenue, and along these
thousands were promenading. The style of hotels is quite in advance of
those at Dover. They are many in number, and are of a quite similar
appearance as compared to each other, none of them, however, being
striking as works of art or architecture. They are of stone or brick,
and of a cream-color; all are from three to five stories high, very
plain, without porticos or much of any decoration; and while they had
a neat and inviting look, yet none of them appeared to be very new or
modern, but substantial, and, perhaps of most appropriate construction
for their exposed situation. The land rises amphitheatre-like from the
water, and, as before named, has a solid and very substantial look.
It has a population of 90,000, and extends for three miles along the
coast, from Kemptown on the east to Hove on the west. It was not a
place of especial resort till about a century ago, when Dr. Richard
Russell published a work on the use of sea-water which attracted much
attention; and its celebrity as a watering-place became established
when George IV.--who at the time, 1784, was simply the Prince of
Wales--made it his place of residence, and began the erection of a
peculiar building, called the Pavilion, which was finished in 1787.
The grounds were some five acres in extent, and finely laid out by the
building of avenues, paths, lawns, flower-beds, and the setting out
of good shrubbery and trees. The estate is very centrally located,
and in the midst of a neighborhood of the best inhabitants. The town
ultimately purchased it of the crown, for the sum of $265,000, and
threw the premises open to the public as pleasure-grounds. In all our
travels we saw no finer taste displayed in the arrangement of elegant
colored-plant designs, nor on as large a scale, as we saw here. They
were indeed marvels of genius and beauty. Our visit to these grounds
was after tea Sunday night, when hundreds of people were enjoying the
treat; and among the few very choice and pleasant hours in England,
these are to be named.
For the pleasure of sojourners, two novel things exist. They are what
are called _chain-piers_, and extend out into the sea; and are as
exposed as would be similar structures built out into the ocean from
our Chelsea or Nantasket Beach, for the relative situation is the same.
One was erected in 1822-3, at an expense of $150,000. It is 1,134 feet
long, and extends, of this length, 1,014 feet into the sea. As 5,280
feet are a mile, it will be seen that this is about one quarter of a
mile in length. The other, which is located about half a mile or so
from that named, was erected in 1867. It is 1,115 feet long. They are
built in suspension-bridge style, with good stone towers, and iron-work
for cords and suspension. They are frequented by thousands for the fine
views and sea air.
The sea-wall before alluded to is a grand structure, varying in height
as the rise or fall of the land requires; and is in height, above the
beach, all the way from 20 feet,--which is about the average height,
for a mile at the central part of the town,--and then rising to full 60
feet, as it extends towards the elevated land at the left. The broad
avenue continues to this, and well up on the elevation, and from this
the finest imaginable views of the ocean in front and the city are at
hand, and to the rear and right may be had. At the base of this wall,
and near the shore, is an aquarium, the buildings being low but large,
tasty, and admirably adapted for their purpose. It was opened to the
public in 1872. In the western quarter is a battery of six 42-pounders,
erected in 1793. On the eastern side is Queen's Park, and on the
western is a chalybeate spring.
There are twenty-five chapels and churches belonging to the established
church, and thirty of other denominations. Of them all, none had so
much charm to us as Trinity Chapel, where once the thoughtful and
good Frederick W. Robertson preached, and sacrificed himself for
humanity. We, as it were instinctively, on Sunday wended our way
there, for although long since, as Cotton Mather would have said, he
had "passed on to the celestials," yet it was our highest thought
to see the place. We found it a very ordinary building, in a fair
neighborhood. The edifice was of no especial pretension, outside or
inside. It had a frontage of perhaps 45 feet, was of a debased Grecian
architecture, with no look of chapel, save what was given to it by a
very unpretending cupola, or bell-tower, resting on the roof. Inside it
was quite as simple and in the same style; common galleries were on the
two sides and the door end; and while all was neat, yet there was no
display nor churchly look. Here the scholarly man thought and labored,
and, as it were, died. Robertson was born at London, Feb. 3, 1816;
graduated at Brazenose College, Oxford, 1840; and, after being curate
at Winchester, Cheltenham, and Oxford, in 1847 he became minister here;
and after a most laborious experience in his parish, and outside of it,
and remarkably so for the working-men and the poor, he fell a victim of
overwork and left the scenes of his earthly labors, Aug. 15, 1853, at
the age of but 37. His broad views of the divine government and human
destiny cost him the loss of sympathy he otherwise would have had.
Conscientious to a remarkable degree, intellectual and finished beyond
most others, and withal sensitive, he inwardly deplored his conditions
and surroundings; but never yielded, and at last passed on, to be fully
appreciated only when the spirit and body had parted companionship.
Hardly had his sermons been issued from the press before their depth
of thought, their comprehensive reach, their elegant diction, and
sweet temper were appreciated; and now, no denomination, evangelical
or unevangelical, is there whose clergyman will not speak in their
praise. Wherever the English language is spoken, the fine productions
of Frederick William Robertson will be spoken of as a choice thing, and
an honor to the English tongue.
There are five banks and six newspapers in the town; and one hundred
fishing-boats are owned and used, manned by 500 men. The principal fish
taken, and in abundance, are mackerel, herrings, soles, brill, and
turbot; and mullet and whiting are often caught. The place is very old,
for in the old Doomsday Book it is spoken of, and there called by the
name of Brighthelmstone.
Having before spoken of Doomsday Book, we will take time enough here
to say that it is an old register of lands in England, framed by
order of William the Conqueror, and was begun somewhere from 1080 to
1085, and was finished sure in 1086. The book is yet preserved in
the chapter-house of Westminster. A facsimile was published by the
government in 1783, having been ten years in passing through the
press. It is a valuable and interesting work, and is in itself a sort
of complete registry of English possessions.
Brighton under the longer name is there referred to. It, like Dover,
and in fact all border towns, suffered often from invasions, and the
French plundered and burnt it in 1513. During the reigns of Henry VIII.
and Queen Elizabeth, fortifications were erected for its protection.
Two hundred years ago it was a fishing-town, and had 600 families. Now,
the fishing still continues, but its many hotels, its grand summer
boarding-houses, and its population furnish a ready market at home.
On one portion of the Sunday we attended worship in the Quaker
meeting-house. The word _church_ cannot be used with propriety here,
for the place was anything but that. We chanced in our walks to fall in
with it,--and need we have asked who worshipped there?--a good stone
building, unpretending but very neat, end to the road, and back full
100 feet from the street, with a beautiful park-like garden enclosed in
front. We went in, and the same nicety was everywhere. Plain, but of a
rather higher grade than we were used to seeing in places of worship
of this sect. The house was quite large, and was nearly filled. Some
four or five of the more elect ones were at their usual place on the
high-seats, and facing the audience. All of them were moved by the
spirit to speak, and to our pleasure did so. The tone of remark was to
speak ill of themselves, and suggest the deplorable conditions incident
to an earthly life; but the advice they gave was salutary, the opinion
honest and sincere, and good was done. This was the extreme opposite of
the ornate Episcopal service, and as we had had that first on entering
England, it was well we had this last on leaving it. It was not our
intention to furnish evidence against ourselves, and tell that after
remaining but a short time in Trinity Chapel we were too uninterested
to stay, and so quietly walked out, being near the door, and going we
knew not exactly where, came in here; but we have now told the story,
and so the reader will not be at a loss to know why we had nothing to
say of service there.
Much more would we say of this Brighton,--its fine air, views,
fashionable life, and desirable conditions, but we rest the case here.
When we have written one of these articles, we find an abundance more
material left than we have used. The task of omitting material is a
great one. What _not_ to say is what troubles us.
Although an account of the passage to Calais, and a description of
that place would not ordinarily be in order in a work pertaining to
the places here described; yet there being involved certain items
of historical interest to Americans we venture to say a few words
pertaining to things across the channel, and with that end our work.
Having digressed this much, we now go back to old Dover, where the last
accounts left us, and at 9.30 A. M. of Wednesday, June 19,
are on board the steamer for a few hours' sail, across the channel to
Calais.
Our voyage was far from being an unpleasant one. We were not entirely
out of sight of land, as Dover was behind or Calais before us all the
time, for in fair weather these are always in view. The steamers are
strong and adapted for their work. They are about the size of those
that ply in our harbor, the John A. Andrew if you please; but white
paint for a steamer is quite distasteful to people of the region we
are in. Black is to them the fine and good color. No money is to be
expended for nice inside finish as in the Andrew; but everything is
solid and neat, and we ought to be generous enough to say, "as good as
need be," and we _will_ say it.
Generally this Channel is rough and boisterous. Currents and winds
through this great valley of the land and sea are so in conflict, that
seldom is there a calmer or even as calm a time as we had. Now the two
hours end, and we are nearing shore. England has been left behind, with
pleasant memories that it wouldn't take much reflection to transform
into regrets; yet all is lighted up with good anticipations, for we
two Bostonians are soon to stand on the soil of Imperial France. The
thought even now kindles peculiar emotions. Sunny France! an elastic
people, brilliant in exploit; its great metropolis the epitome of a
remarkable civilization! We thus thought of it then, and thus we think
of it now. The steamer slackens her speed, and we are on the upper
deck, ready to land at
CALAIS.
But two hours' sail across the Channel, and we are now, at 12
M. of Wednesday, June 19, standing on French soil, and though
but 21 miles from England, and people of the two places have been for
centuries crossing the Channel and communicating with each other,
still, things here are peculiar and have an outlandish look. It is like
Dover, somewhat of a watering-place; and there is a fine beach, with
a large chateau-like hotel on the right shore as we enter. The wharf
at which we land is an old wooden structure, and everything about it
has an aged look. We did not go up into the city, but remained at the
wharf for the departure of the train which was already there and in
waiting. We now began to hear French talked as the rule, and English as
the exception. The station was quite a large and substantial structure
of brick, and here was what was called a _café_, or, as we should say,
a restaurant. The art of restaurating is not well developed outside of
America. Lager beer, sandwiches, and a few ordinary cakes are about
all that can be found. In a distant part of the building dinner could
be had at a cost of about a dollar. In fact people when they came into
the car were complaining loudly: first, of the lack of things to eat;
next, of quantity; and finally, of exorbitant prices. This was a fair
sample of a majority of all we met with. A mild rain was falling, and
we contented ourselves with remaining about the station nearly an hour.
Calais is one of the seaports of France, 19 miles from Boulogne, and
150 miles north of Paris, which--added to the 21 miles from Calais
to Dover, and the 62 miles from there to London--makes the distance
from the place last named to Paris 233 miles, or the same distance as
between New York and Boston. Its population in 1866 was 12,727, or
about double that of our Calais, Maine, that being 5,944. Both are
border towns, with the English opposite. It is situated on a rather
barren district, the surrounding country being of cheap land, and under
poor cultivation. A great difference exists in these respects on the
two sides of the water. The place is well fortified by a citadel and
quite a number of forts; being one of the border towns, it has, like
those of England, been subject to constant invasions.
The harbor is formed of long wooden piers, and is very shallow. It
has a lighthouse 190 feet high, which is very commanding in effect,
and adds much to the look of the place as one of commerce. Steamers
ply daily, and at times quite often, across the Straits of Dover to
England. The streets are broad and level, and so far as we saw, were
well paved. The houses were neat, and mostly of stone or brick, though
a portion of them were wooden. What are called the ramparts afford a
good promenade, and it is said that, as a general thing, English is the
spoken language. Among the noteworthy buildings is the old church of
Nôtre Dame,--a favorite name for French churches,--the words meaning
_Our Lady_, an allusion to the Virgin Mary. This church contains the
celebrated painting of the Assumption by Vandyke.
The Hôtel de Ville is a very old and large structure containing the
public city offices, and has a high tower and belfry, with clock and
chime of bells. Another ancient structure is the Hôtel de Guise, an
edifice erected for the wool-stapler's guild--an institution founded by
Edward III. There are various statues and busts of distinguished men in
the more public places; but what is a very conspicuous object is the
Tower of Guet, which dates back to 1214, or 669 years ago. It was for
centuries used as a lighthouse; and, though having a history of one
third of the time from the Christian era, as Longfellow has said of the
Belfry of Bruges, "still it watches o'er the town."
Prior to the twelfth century Calais was an insignificant
fishing-village; but Baldwin IV., Count of Flanders, was especially
pleased with the location, and realizing its importance as a seaport,
and its possibilities as a place of resort for sea-bathing and summer
residence, greatly improved it, and about the year 997, expended much
money for its advancement. Philip of France, Count of Boulogne, in the
early part of the thirteenth century enlarged and strengthened its
fortifications.
It was invaded by the English, and in 1347 it was, after a long siege,
taken by King Edward II.; and in the negotiations for peace, Eustace
St. Pierre, and five companions were accepted as a ransom for the
entire population, and finally, they themselves had their lives spared
by the intercession of the wife of Edward, Queen Philippa. From that
time it remained in possession of the English a period of 211 years,
when in 1558, it was besieged by the French under the Duke of Guise;
and with the exception of the years 1596-8, when it was in the hands of
the Spaniards, it has remained in comparatively quiet possession of the
French.
It has been from first to last a somewhat memorable place, and has
played an important part in history. Charles II. of England, after
the battle of Worcester, Sept. 3, 1651, fled to France; but the peace
of 1655 forced him to leave the country and he went to Bruges, and
remained there and at Brussels till he heard of Cromwell's death
in 1658, when, in order to avail himself of the great confusion it
caused in England, he ventured to station himself at Calais, which he
did in August of 1659; and, with this as his headquarters, he opened
negotiations with General Monk, which ended in his being proclaimed
king of England, May 8, 1660.
It was here also that James II. mustered his forces for the invasion of
Ireland; and finally it is memorable as the place where Louis XVIII.
landed, April 21, 1814, after his exile, and the spot is marked by a
column and an inscription of the event.
There is a matter of such interest, more especially to us Bostonians,
connected with the channel between Dover and Calais, we cannot well
refrain from noticing it; and it is, that on the 7th of January, 1785,
two men were here for the first time successful in conducting a balloon
on any extended scale, and guiding it to a particular destination; and
we are happy to be able to state that a very distinguished Bostonian
was one of these, the celebrated physician Dr. John Jeffries, who was
born in our Boston, Feb. 4, 1744, being at the time first named, a
resident of London, and in a successful practice of his profession.
Being largely interested in scientific pursuits, and especially those
relating to atmospheric pressure, he was invited by one François
Blanchard, a Frenchman and an aeronaut, to attempt with him the task
of crossing this channel. They started from the cliffs of Dover at the
time before named, and safely landed in the forest of Guines in France.
The doctor, in consequence of his venture, received great attentions
from learned and scientific men and societies in London and Paris.
Blanchard, who had planned the voyage and furnished the balloon, was
rewarded by Louis XVI. with a gift of 12,000 francs, or $2,500, and a
life-pension of 1,200 francs annually. He died in Paris, March 7, 1809,
at the age of 71. Dr. Jeffries removed back to Boston in 1789, four
years after the balloon passage, and died there Sept. 16, 1819, at the
age 75, and was buried in the Granary burial-ground on Tremont Street.
There are two things of especial interest that may be named as we speak
of Dr. Jeffries. One is that it was he and John Winslow of Boston who
first recognized the body of General Warren who fell at the battle of
Bunker Hill. It lay where it fell till the succeeding day, when, being
recognized, it was buried on the same spot. The other fact is that he
was one of the early permanent settlers of East Boston, at what is
now--and long has been known as--Jeffries Point. Although in a degree
foreign to our purpose, yet we extend our remarks and name an incident
of connecting interest, which took place in this year of Dr. Jeffries'
decease.
After the death of Blanchard in 1809, his wife, Marie Madeline Sophie
Armant, who had accompanied him on many of the sixty-six voyages he
had made, continued making like aerial excursions for the following ten
years; till on a day of June in this year, 1819, she ascended from the
Tivoli Garden in Paris, when her balloon, which was illuminated with
fireworks, took fire while at a considerable height, and she, falling,
was dashed to pieces. In a few months after, as named, died Dr.
Jeffries, and so ended the earthly career of the trio most interested
in that first great balloon enterprise between Dover and Calais,
thirty-four years before.
* * * * *
There are yet a few places of interest, which, although not included
in our journey, are so readily reached by detours from places we did
visit, that we deem it advisable to name them. Conspicuous among
them are the three cathedrals not described in our work: these are
CHICHESTER, one of the five English cathedrals with a spire;
WELLS, celebrated for its elaborately carved west façade and
the wide grounds in front of it; and EXETER, having also a
highly decorated west end, with the two transepts ending as towers.
Chichester is easily reached by a ride by rail of 28½ miles from
Brighton; Exeter by one of 80 miles from Bristol; and Wells, by one of
19 miles from Bath.
LAKE WINDERMERE, in no way inferior in picturesque beauty to
the lakes of Ireland or Scotland, may be visited by a ride of 15 miles
from Lowgill, a station between Leeds and Carlisle.
GLASTONBURY ABBEY ruins are excelled in beauty and interest by
none in England; they may be reached by a ride of 6 miles from Wells,
and may be visited while making the tour to the cathedral.
TINTERN ABBEY, remarkable for its beauty, may be visited from
Gloucester. It is a ride by rail of 40 miles to Chepstow, and then by
coach for 14 miles further. It hardly need be added that these ruins
are over the Welsh border.
FOUNTAIN'S ABBEY ruins, renowned and of indescribable beauty
and interest, are 13½ miles from Harrowgate, a town that may be reached
by a ride of 27 miles by rail from either York or Leeds. In the
vicinity of both Fountain's Abbey and Harrowgate are the celebrated
ruins of BOLTON PRIORY, and no day can be more interestingly
employed than one devoted to these unusual and remarkable places.
In Scotland, 30 miles from Glasgow, is the town of AYR, in
which are the ruins of the Kirk of Alloway, the scene of "Tam O'
Shanter." Near-by is the cottage in which Robert Burns was born; and a
fourth of a mile away, on the banks of his celebrated Doon, is a fine
monument to his memory.
The famous ruins of JEDBURG ABBEY are reached by a
carriage-ride of eight miles from Melrose. The town itself is peculiar
in the quaintness of many of its streets and buildings, and it is a
principle with the inhabitants to preserve these antiquities.
DRYBURG ABBEY ruins are beautiful in the extreme, and a fit
resting-place for the remains of Sir Walter Scott. They are within four
miles of Melrose.
But we find the theme lengthening, and must forbear; and in closing
will simply say, that the GIANT'S CAUSEWAY may be reached to
advantage by a jaunt from Dublin to Belfast, one of the chief cities
of Ireland, 88 miles north of the capital; thence to Londonderry, one
of the most finished and intelligent places of the Emerald isle; and
thence to the northern border, and by steamer to the Causeway. The spot
may also be reached direct by steamer from Belfast.
* * * * *
And now we take a respectful leave of our readers, trusting that our
humble work may be acceptable, and that their knowledge has been
increased, or their memory refreshed, as to things in England, Ireland,
and Scotland.
INDEX.
A
ABBEYS: Dryburg, 355;
Fountain's, 354;
Glastonbury, 354;
Jedburg, 355;
Kirkstall, 192 _et seq._;
Melrose, 238;
Muckross, 36 _et seq._;
St. Finian, 32 _et seq._;
Tintern, 354;
Westminster, 131 _et seq._
ABBOTSFORD: Sir Walter Scott's residence, 234 _et seq._;
his last days at, 236 _et seq._
ALPHABET, Ogham, 27.
AMESBURY, 110.
AYR, 354.
B
BANIN, John, 65.
BATH: city of, 102;
cathedral of, 102;
bell-chimes, baths, and pump-room, 104, 105;
ancient customs, 105;
Beau Nash, 104, 105;
Samuel Pepy's visit to, 1668, 105 _et seq._;
Richard Brinsley Sheridan, 106.
BECKET, Thomas à: biography of, 336;
shrine of, 338.
BEDE, the Venerable, 248 _et seq._
BEMERTON: little church of, and rectory, 114;
Rev. George Herbert's ministry, 115.
BIRKENHEAD, 96.
BIRMINGHAM: city of, 179;
parks, 180;
statistics concerning, 180 _et seq._
BLACK VALLEY, Ireland, 28.
BLARNEY: ride to, 18;
castle of, 19 _et seq._;
legends concerning, 21.
BOLTON Priory, 354.
BORU, Brian, 70.
BOSTON: town of, 270;
St. Botolph's Church, 271;
Rev. John Cotton, 271 _et seq._;
English hotel names, 273.
BOYLE, Earl of, 49.
BRIDGE, old London, 138 _et seq._
BRIGID, St., chapel of, 67.
BRIGHTON: city of, 345;
beach and promenade, 346;
residence of George IV., pavilion, 346;
chain piers, 347;
church of Rev. F. W. Robertson, 348;
Doomsday Book, 348;
history of, 349;
Quaker meeting, 349.
BRIGHTON, NEW, 76.
BRISTOL: city of, 97;
St. Mary Radcliffe Church, 98;
Thomas Chatterton's forgeries, 99;
first steamships to America, 100;
cathedral of, 100;
old institutions, 102.
C
CABOT, John, 100.
CALAIS (France): passage to, 350;
city of, 351;
ancient buildings, 351;
history of, 352;
balloon ascension, 353;
American Dr. John Jeffries, 359.
CALLENDER, 210.
CAMBRIDGE: city of, 295;
respect for antiquities, 296;
colleges, 296 _et seq._;
Fitzwilliam Museum, ancient churches, 310, 311;
University Library, School of Pythagoras, Barnwell Priory, Hobson's
Conduit, "Hobson's choice," 311;
government of the University, expense of education, 312;
college statistics, 314.
CANTERBURY: cultivation of land in vicinity of, 331;
town of, 332;
Dane John, 333;
cathedral, 333 _et seq._;
Thomas à Becket, 336 _et seq._;
eminent men of, 340;
Walloons, 341;
Edward the Black Prince, 342.
CAR, Irish jaunting, 18.
CARLISLE: city of, 193;
cathedral of, 193;
celebrated bishops, 194;
castle, 195;
William Paley, 195.
CARRICK-ON-SUIR, 59.
CASCADE, Torc, 38.
CASHEL, rock of, 66.
CASTLES: Blarney, 19;
Carlisle, 195;
Donnington, 125;
Edinburgh, 228;
Kilkenny, 63;
Loughmore, 67;
Monkstown, and Anastatia Goold's exploit at building it, 11;
Ross, 34.
CATHEDRALS: Bath, 102;
Bristol, 101;
Canterbury, 333;
Chester, 81;
Chichester, 354;
Christ Church (Dublin), 51;
Durham, 246;
Ely, 290;
Exeter, 354;
Glasgow, 201;
Gloucester, 95;
Hereford, 93;
Lichfield, 182;
Lincoln, 268;
Norwich, 286;
Oxford, 162;
Peterboro, 276;
Rochester, 330;
St. Canice, 63;
St. Patrick's, 48;
St. Paul's, 143;
Salisbury, 106;
Wells, 354;
Winchester, 119;
Worcester, 88.
CATHEDRAL SERVICE: history of, 47;
chanting introduced, 48.
CAUSEWAY, Giant's, 355.
Chatham, 331.
CHATTERTON, Thomas, biography of, and literary forgeries, 98 _et seq._
CHESTER: city of, 79;
ancient walls of, 79, 80;
ruins, ancient buildings, cathedral, 81;
St. John's Church, 82;
God's Providence House, barracks, cathedral service, military parade,
American Revolution flags, 83;
Roman bath, eminent men, 84.
CHICHESTER, cathedral of, 354.
CHURCHES: Christ's, Boston, Mass., 151;
St. Clement Danes, London, 156;
St. John's, Chester, 82;
St. Sepulchre's, London, 154.
CORK: city of, 11;
Holinshead's history of, 16.
COTTON, Rev. John: epitaph of, 125;
biography of, 271.
COVENTRY: city of, 178;
Lady Godiva and Peeping Tom, 179.
D
DOVER: ride to, 342;
castle of, 343;
town of, 343;
harbor of, 343;
history of, 344;
chalk-cliffs, 345.
DRAKE, John, the hermit, 37.
DUBLIN: city of, 44 _et seq._;
St. Patrick's Cathedral, 48;
Christ Church Cathedral, 50;
Phoenix Park, 51;
Royal Hospital, 50;
parliaments held here, reformed religion inaugurated, 53;
custom-house, courts, 55.
DUNLOE, cave and gap of, 27.
DURHAM: city of, 244;
cathedral of, 246;
sanctuary ground, 247;
Old Galilee, 248;
Venerable Bede, St. Cuthbert, 249 _et seq._;
monuments, 250;
bishops of, 250;
relics, 251.
E
EDINBURGH: city of, 218;
New City of, Calton Hill, Nelson's Monument, National Monument, 219,
220;
Burns memorial, Sir Walter Scott's memorial, 220;
Holyrood palace, 221;
Holyrood chapel, 223;
Queen's fountain and bath, 224;
Salisbury Crags, Old City, 224;
wynds, or closes, Maison Dieu, 225;
St. Giles's Church, cemetery, 226, 227;
Tolbooth, John Knox's house, 227;
reminiscences of Knox, 227;
theatres and customs relating to, distinguished residents, 228;
abbey sanctuary, 228;
Sir Walter Scott's residence, 228;
castle, 228 _et seq._;
St. Margaret's chapel, 231;
old cannon, Mons Meg, 231;
castle esplanade, 231 _et seq._
ELY: town of, 289;
cathedral of, 290.
ESTATES, landed, 44 _et seq._
ETON SCHOOL, 322.
G
GHEARHODH, MORGYRHEAD, Countess of, 58.
GIANT'S CAUSEWAY, 355.
GINKLE, General De, 44.
GLASGOW: city of, 199;
Presbyterianism, 199;
history, streets, and parks, 200;
college, cathedral, necropolis, 201;
Martyrs' Monument, 202 _et seq._;
great chimneys, 204;
Presbyterian meeting, Sunday intemperance, 205.
GLASTONBURY, 354.
GLENA BAY, 32.
GLOUCESTER: city of, 95;
history and cathedral of, 95 _et seq._;
Dr. Jenner's inoculation for smallpox, Robert Raikes's Sunday-school,
Rev. George Whitefield, 96;
martyr Hooper burned here at the stake, Thomas More's description of
Richard III., 97.
GRAY, Thomas, the poet, 325.
GREEN, Hoggin, his Oberammergau Play, 53.
GUINNESS, Sir B. L., his munificent donation for restoration of Christ
Church Cathedral, 50.
H
HAMPTON COURT, 158, 329.
HENRY, Rev. Matthew, ministry of, and Commentary, 84.
HERBERT: Henry A., 38;
Rev. George, 115.
HEREFORD: city of, 92;
celebrated characters of, River Wye, 93;
cathedral, 93 _et seq._
HOOPER, Rev. John, the martyr, 97.
I
INNISFALLEN, island of, 32.
IRELAND: coast of, 6;
spring season in, 10;
statistics of, 6, 8, 69;
history of, 69 _et seq._;
English in, 40.
J
JENNER, Dr. Edward, his inoculation for smallpox, 96.
JEFFRIES, Dr. John, his balloon ascension, 353.
JOHNSON, Dr. Samuel, 156 _et seq._
K
KEARNEY, Kate, her cottage and eye to business, 27.
KEMBLE: Roger, Charles, John Philip, Sarah (Mrs. Siddons), 93.
KENILWORTH, castle and grounds of, 176 _et seq._
KETTEL, Lady Alice, her trial for witchcraft, 64.
KILKENNY: town of, 62;
of, St. Canice Cathedral, 63;
witchcraft delusion, round tower, 64.
KILLARNEY: town of, 23;
curious funeral custom, 24;
ride to lakes, scenery, 26;
description of lakes, 29 _et seq._;
legends, 31.
KNOX, Rev. John, residence of, 227.
L
LAKES: of Ireland, 29 _et seq._;
Scotland, 206 _et seq._;
Windermere (England,) 354.
LANDED ESTATES, and laws of primogeniture, bane of the country, 44.
LAUD, William: archbishop, 122;
place of birth, 339.
LEAMINGTON, 174.
LEE, river, passage up to Cork, villages and scenery, 10.
LEEDS: city of, 191;
collieries, Rev. Dr. Priestley, 191 _et seq._;
season, Kirkstall Abbey, 192 _et seq._
LICHFIELD: city of, 181;
Dr. Samuel Johnson's birthplace, 181 _et seq._;
cathedral, 182 _et seq._;
celebrated bishops, 184;
cathedral desecrations and repairs, 185 _et seq._
LIMERICK: city of, 40;
cathedral, 40;
chime-bells, castle, 42;
resistance to England, 43 _et seq._
LINCOLN: city of, 265;
industries of, 266;
cathedral, 268 _et seq._
LIVERPOOL: passage to, from Dublin, 75;
approach to harbor of, 75 _et seq._;
docks and landing-stage, 77;
history of place, 77;
intemperance, court scenes, 78;
St. George's Hall, suburbs, Toxton, Sefton Park, 79.
LOE, Thomas, who converted William Penn to Quakerism, 16.
LONDON: city of, 129;
West End of, Hyde Park, 129 _et seq._;
Westminster Abbey, 131 _et seq._;
Houses of Parliament, 134 _et seq._;
River Thames, 135;
Victoria Embankment, 136;
Albert Embankment, 137;
bridges, 137;
old London bridge, 138;
old watermen's troubles on the Thames, 140 _et seq._;
river frozen over, 141 _et seq._;
St. Paul's, 143 _et seq._;
streets of, 143;
climate of, 144;
National Gallery, British Museum, 152;
cabs, parks, 153;
old churches, 154;
tower of, 157;
Hampton Court, 158;
Bunhill burial-ground, 159;
Fire Monument, 315.
LUDLOW, Lord, captor of Ross Castle, 34.
LYNN, 279 _et seq._
M
MANCHESTER: history of, 190;
manufactures, 190 _et seq._
MARYBORO, 67.
MELROSE: journey to, 233;
abbey of, 238 _et seq._
MORE, Sir Thomas, his description of Richard III., 97.
MOUNTAINS: of Ireland, 38 _et seq._;
of Scotland, 206 _et seq._
MUSKERRY, Lord, defender of Ross Castle, 34.
N
NASH, Beau, 104 _et seq._
NEWBURY: passage to, from Reading, 123;
old Jack House, 123;
Jack of Newbury, 123 _et seq._;
extraordinary cloth manufacture, Rev. Dr. Twiss, Westminster
Catechisms, New England Primer, Benjamin Woodbridge, 124 _et seq._;
Donnington Castle, 125;
Chaucer's house, St. Nicholas Church, curious customs and ancient
epitaphs, 126 _et seq._
NEWCASTLE-ON-TYNE, 243.
NORWICH: history of, 283;
eminent persons, 283 _et seq._;
relics, 284;
cathedral, 286 _et seq._;
bishops of, 289.
O
OXFORD: city of, 161;
martyrs, 161 _et seq._;
cathedral, Bodleian Library, 162;
curiosities, 163;
colleges, 163 _et seq._;
students, 165 _et seq._
P
PENN, William: sailed for America, 11;
conversion to Quakerism, 16.
PEPYS, Samuel, 105, 106, 113.
PETERBORO': city of, 276;
cathedral, 276 _et seq._;
Whit-Monday, 278;
eminent personages, 279.
PROUT, Father, 21.
PUNCH BOWL, the Devil's, 39.
PURCELL, ancient estate of, 60 _et seq._
Q
QUEENSTOWN: harbor of, 6;
city of, 8;
peculiar customs, 9.
R
RAIKES, Robert, father of Sunday-schools, 96.
RAILWAYS, foreign, 22 _et seq._
READING: city of, 121;
birthplace of Archbishop Laud, 122;
Congregationalist meeting, 127 _et seq._
ROBERTSON, Rev. F. W., 348.
ROB ROY: country, 207;
biography of, 207 _et seq._
ROCHESTER: city of, 329;
cathedral, 330 _et seq._
ROE, Henry, Esq., his work of restoring St. Patrick's Cathedral, 52.
ROSS, island and castle, 33 _et seq._
RUDHALL, Abel, and Abraham, celebrated bell-founders, 96.
S
SALISBURY: city of, 106;
cathedral, 106 _et seq._
SARUM, Old, ruins of, 108 _et seq._
SCOTT, Sir Walter: Edinburgh residence, 228;
Abbotsford, 234 _et seq._;
closing days and hours of his life, 236 _et seq._
SERVICE: intonation of, 48;
reform of Church of England, in Ireland, 54.
SHAKESPEARE, 170, 174.
SHANDON: St. Ann's Church of, 13;
"sweet bells of," 14.
SHEFFIELD, 264 _et seq._
SHERIDAN, Richard Brinsley, 106.
SHREWSBURY: city of, 85;
River Severn, St. Chad's Church, Quarry
Walk, parliaments, historical incidents, 86 _et seq._;
celebrated cakes, St. Mary's Church, the Shrewsbury clock by which Sir
John Falstaff fought an hour, 87 _et seq._
SLOVENLINESS of American roads, 19.
SMITH, Captain John, monument and epitaph in St. Sepulchre's Church,
London, 154 _et seq._
STAFFORDSHIRE, smoke and iron district, 189.
STEAMSHIPS, first that crossed the ocean, 100.
STIRLING: wars there, 210 _et seq._;
castle, 212 _et seq._;
old Gray Friars Church, 213;
ancient guildhall, 213 _et seq._;
ancient burial-ground, Wallace Monument, 214 _et seq._;
biography of Wallace, 215 _et seq._
STOKE POGIS: ride to, from Windsor, 321 _et seq._;
church grounds, 322 _et seq._;
the "ivy mantled tower" church, 323;
Gray's Elegy and biography, 325.
STOKE-UPON-TRENT: city of, 187;
pottery manufacture, 187 _et seq._;
birthplace of Rev. John Lightfoot, 188.
STONEHENGE, 110 _et seq._
STRATFORD-ON-AVON: town of, 169 _et seq._;
Shakespeare's birthplace, church, 170 _et seq._;
his wife's monument, 172;
biography of him, 172 _et seq._;
Shottery, residence of Anne Hathaway, his bride, 173 _et seq._
SUPREMACY, act of, 70.
SWIFT, Dean of St Patrick's, Dublin, 49.
T
THEOLOGY, influence of Scotch on the Irish, 46.
TORC CASCADE, 38.
TOWER, Reginald, ancient, at Waterford, 58.
TRENT, river, 187 _et seq._
TWISS, Rev. William, 124 _et seq._
TYNE, Newcastle on, 243.
V
VALLEY, Black, in Ireland, 28.
W
WALTON, Isaac, 116, 119.
WALLOONS, the French silk-weavers, at Canterbury, 341.
WARBECK, Perkin, 16.
WARWICK: city of, 167;
castle of, 167 _et seq._;
Leicester Hospital, 169.
WATERFORD: city of, 57;
ancient Reginald tower, 58;
barracks, soldiers, police, history of city, 59.
WELLS: fishing-town of, 282;
cathedral town, 354.
WHITEFIELD, Rev. George, his place of birth, death, and burial, 96.
WILTON: town of, 112;
Samuel Pepys' visit to, in 1668, 113.
WINCHESTER: history of, 116;
celebrated men, old museum, 117;
touching for cure of King's Evil, banqueting hall, King Arthur's Round
Table, Charles II.'s palace, cathedral, _118 et seq._;
Isaac Walton's tomb, 119;
marked historical events, 120;
remains of bishops, 120 _et seq._
WINDSOR: town of, 316;
castle, 317 _et seq._;
St. George's Chapel, Prince Albert's mausoleum, 318.
WORCESTER: history of, 88;
cathedral, 88 _et seq._;
bell and clock-chimes, landscapes, 90 _et seq._;
St. Andrew's Church, 91;
potteries, 91 _et seq._;
cathedral service attended, 92.
WORSHIP: origin of houses of Christian, 260;
cathedrals and minsters, cause of their erection, 266 _et seq._;
progress made and making, 269.
WOODBRIDGE, Benjamin, first graduate of Harvard College, 124 _et seq._
Y
YORK: city of, 254;
history of, 254 _et seq._;
distinguished personages, 255 _et seq._;
St. Mary's Abbey, ruins of, 257 _et seq._;
relics, 258;
York Minster, 259 _et seq._;
archbishopric of, 261 _et seq._;
interesting relics, 263;
Minster's history, 268 _et seq._
YORKSHIRE, 253.
FOOTNOTE:
[1] There is no uniformity in the spelling of this name. The oldest
records of the family give it as _Shakspere_. In the poet's will it
is spelled _Shakspeare_, and is so signed by him. Whenever he and his
friend Ben Jonson caused it to be printed, they spelled it Shakespeare.
In this form we find it in almost every book of that period where
it appears at all. And so we have it on his wife's tombstone. The
probabilities are, that the later spelling was the one most approved by
the poet himself, as giving more correctly the usual pronunciation.
TRANSCRIBER'S NOTE
-Plain print and punctuation errors fixed.