Mon Tres-Cher Pere,--

God be praised! we reached Waging, Stain, Ferbertshaim, and Wasserburg

safely. Now for a brief report of our journey. When we arrived at the

city gates, we were kept waiting for nearly a quarter of an hour till

they could be thrown open for us, as they were under repair. Near Schinn

we met a drove of cows, and one of these very remarkable, for each side

was a different color, which we never before saw. When at last we got to

Schinn, we met a carriage, which stopped, and ecce, our postilion called

out we must change. "I don't care," said I. Mamma and I were parleying,

when a portly gentleman came up, whose physiognomy I at once recognized;

he was a Memmingen merchant. He stared at me for some time, and at last

said, "You surely are Herr Mozart?" "At your service," said I; "I

know you, too, by sight, but not your name. I saw you, a year ago, at

Mirabell's [the palace garden in Salzburg] at a concert." He then told

me his name, which, thank God! I have forgotten; but I retained one of

probably more importance to me. When I saw this gentleman in Salzburg,

he was accompanied by a young man whose brother was now with him, and

who lives in Memmingen. His name is Herr Unhold, and he pressed me very

much to come to Memmingen if possible. We sent a hundred thousand loves

to papa by them, and to my sister, the madcap, which they promised to

deliver without fail. This change of carriages was a great bore to me,

for I wished to send a letter back from Waging by the postilion. We then

(after a slight meal) had the honor of being conveyed as far as Stain,

by the aforesaid post-horses, in an hour and a half. At Waging I was

alone for a few minutes with the clergyman, who looked quite amazed,

knowing nothing of our history. From Stain we were driven by a most

tiresome phlegmatic postilion--N. B., in driving I mean; we thought we

never were to arrive at the next stage. At last we did arrive, as

you may see from my writing this letter. (Mamma is half asleep.) From

Ferbertshaim to Wasserburg all went on well. Viviamo come i principi;

we want nothing except you, dear papa. Well, this is the will of God; no

doubt all will go on right. I hope to hear that papa is as well as I am

and as happy. Nothing comes amiss to me; I am quite a second papa, and

look after everything.[Footnote: The father had been very uneasy at the

idea of allowing the inexperienced youth, whose unsuspicious good-nature

exposed him still more to danger, to travel alone; for the mother also

was not very expert in travelling.] I settled from the first to pay the

postilions, for I can talk to such fellows better than mamma. At the

Stern, in Wasserburg, we are capitally served; I am treated here like

a prince. About half an hour ago (mamma being engaged at the time) the

Boots knocked at the door to take my orders about various things, and

I gave them to him with the same grave air that I have in my portrait.

Mamma is just going to bed. We both beg that papa will be careful of

his health, not go out too early, nor fret, [Footnote: The Father was

strongly disposed to hypochondria.] but laugh and be merry and in good

spirits. We think the Mufti H. C. [the Archbishop Hieronymus Colloredo]

a MUFF, but we know God to be compassionate, merciful, and loving. I

kiss papa's hands a thousand times, and embrace my SISTER MADCAP as

often as I have to-day taken snuff. I think I have left my diplomas at

home? [his appointment at court.] I beg you will send them to me soon.

My pen is rude, and I am not refined.

60.

Munich, Sept. 26, 1777.

WE arrived safely in Munich on the afternoon of the 24th, at half-past

four o'clock. A complete novelty to me was being obliged to drive to the

Custom House, escorted by a grenadier with a fixed bayonet. The

first person we knew, who met us when driving, was Signor Consoli; he

recognized me at once, and showed the utmost joy at seeing me again.

Next day he called on us. I cannot attempt to describe the delight of

Herr Albert [the "learned landlord" of the Black Eagle, on the Kaufinger

Gasse, now Hotel Detzer]; he is indeed a truly honest man, and a very

good friend of ours. On my arrival I went to the piano, and did not

leave it till dinner-time. Herr Albert was not at home, but he soon

came in, and we went down to dinner together. There I met M. Sfeer and

a certain secretary, an intimate friend of his; both send their

compliments to you. Though tired by our journey, we did not go to bed

till late; we, however, rose next morning at seven o'clock. My hair was

in such disorder that I could not go to Count Seeau's till half-past

ten o'clock. When I got there I was told that he had driven out to the

chasse. Patience! In the mean time I wished to call on Chorus-master

Bernard, but he had gone to the country with Baron Schmid. I found

Herr von Belvall deeply engaged in business; he sent you a thousand

compliments. Rossi came to dinner, and at two o'clock Consoli, and

at three arrived Becke [a friend of Mozart's and an admirable

flute-player], and also Herr von Belvall. I paid a visit to Frau

von Durst [with whom Nannerl had lived], who now lodges with the

Franciscans. At six o'clock I took a short walk with Herr Becke. There

is a Professor Huber here, whom you may perhaps remember better than I

do; he says that the last time he either saw or heard me was at Vienna,

at Herr von Mesmer's, junior. He is neither tall nor short, pale,

with silvery-gray hair, and his physiognomy rather like that of Herr

Unterbereiter. This gentleman is vice-intendant of the theatre; his

occupation is to read through all the comedies to be acted, to improve

or to spoil, to add to or to put them aside. He comes every evening to

Albert's, and often talks to me. To-day, Friday, the 26th, I called on

Count Seeau at half-past eight o'clock. This was what passed. As I was

going into the house I met Madame Niesser, the actress, just coming out,

who said, "I suppose you wish to see the Count?" "Yes!" "He is still in

his garden, and Heaven knows when he may come!" I asked her where the

garden was. "As I must see him also," said she, "let us go together."

We had scarcely left the house when we saw the Count coming towards us

about twelve paces off; he recognized and instantly named me. He was

very polite, and seemed already to know all that had taken place about

me. We went up the steps together slowly and alone; I told him briefly

the whole affair. He said that I ought at once to request an audience of

his Highness the Elector, but that, if I failed in obtaining it, I

must make a written statement. I entreated him to keep this all quite

private, and he agreed to do so. When I remarked to him that there

really was room for a genuine composer here, he said, "I know that

well." I afterwards went to the Bishop of Chiemsee, and was with him for

half an hour. I told him everything, and he promised to do all he

could for me in the matter. At one o'clock he drove to Nymphenburg, and

declared positively he would speak to the Electress. On Sunday the Count

comes here. Herr Joannes Kronner has been appointed Vice-Concertmeister,

which he owes to a blunt speech of his. He has produced two

symphonies--Deo mene liberi [God preserve me from such]--of his own

composition. The Elector asked him, "Did you really compose these?"

"Yes, your Royal Highness!" "From whom did you learn?" "From a

schoolmaster in Switzerland, where so much importance is attached to

the study of composition. This schoolmaster taught me more than all your

composers here, put together, could teach me." Count Schonborn and his

Countess, a sister of the Archbishop [of Salzburg], passed through here

to-day. I chanced to be at the play at the time. Herr Albert, in the

course of conversation, told them that I was here, and that I had given

up my situation. They were all astonishment, and positively refused to

believe him when he said that my salary, of blessed memory, was only

twelve florins thirty kreuzers! They merely changed horses, and would

gladly have spoken with me, but I was too late to meet them. Now I must

inquire what you are doing, and how you are. Mamma and I hope that you

are quite well. I am still in my very happiest humor; my head feels as

light as a feather since I got away from that chicanery. I have grown

fatter already.

61.

Munich, Sept. 29, 1777.

TRUE enough, a great many kind friends, but unluckily most of them have

little or nothing in their power. I was with Count Seeau yesterday, at

half-past ten o'clock, and found him graver and less natural than the

first time; but it was only in appearance, for to-day I was at Prince

Zeill's [Bishop of Chiemsee--No. 56], who, with all courtesy, said

to me, "I don't think we shall effect much here. During dinner, at

Nymphenburg, I spoke privately to the Elector, who replied: 'It is

too soon at this moment; he must leave this and go to Italy and become

famous. I do not actually reject him, but these are too early days

as yet.'" There it is! Most of these grandees have such paroxysms of

enthusiasm for Italy. Still, he advised me to go to the Elector, and

to place my case before him as I had previously intended. I spoke

confidentially at dinner to-day with Herr Woschitka [violoncellist in

the Munich court orchestra, and a member of the Elector's private band],

and he appointed me to come to-morrow at nine o'clock, when he will

certainly procure me an audience. We are very good friends now. He

insisted on knowing the name of my informant; but I said to him, "Rest

assured that I am your friend and shall continue to be so; I am in turn

equally convinced of your friendship, so you must be satisfied with

this." But to return to my narrative. The Bishop of Chiemsee also spoke

to the Electress when tete-a-tete with her. She shrugged her shoulders,

and said she would do her best, but was very doubtful as to her success.

I now return to Count Seeau, who asked Prince Zeill (after he had told

him everything). "Do you know whether Mozart has not enough from his

family to enable him to remain here with a little assistance? I should

really like to keep him." Prince Zeill answered: "I don't know, but

I doubt it much; all you have to do is to speak to himself on the

subject." This, then, was the cause of Count Seeau being so thoughtful

on the following day. I like being here, and I am of the same opinion

with many of my friends, that if I could only remain here for a year

or two, I might acquire both money and fame by my works, and then more

probably be sought by the court than be obliged to seek it myself. Since

my return here Herr Albert has a project in his head, the fulfilment of

which does not seem to me impossible. It is this: He wishes to form an

association of ten kind friends, each of these to subscribe 1 ducat (50

gulden) monthly, 600 florins a year. If in addition to this I had even

200 florins per annum from Count Seeau, this would make 800 florins

altogether. How does papa like this idea? Is it not friendly? Ought not

I to accept it if they are in earnest? I am perfectly satisfied with

it; for I should be near Salzburg, and if you, dearest papa, were seized

with a fancy to leave Salzburg (which from my heart I wish you were) and

to pass your life in Munich, how easy and pleasant would it be! For if

we are obliged to live in Salzburg with 504 florins, surely we might

live in Munich with 800.

To-day, the 30th, after a conversation with Herr Woschitka, I went to

court by appointment. Every one was in hunting-costume. Baron Kern was

the chamberlain on service. I might have gone there last night, but

I could not offend M. Woschitka, who himself offered to find me an

opportunity of speaking to the Elector. At 10 o'clock he took me into a

narrow little room, through which his Royal Highness was to pass on his

way to hear mass, before going to hunt. Count Seeau went by, and greeted

me very kindly: "How are you, dear Mozart?" When the Elector came up to

me, I said, "Will your Royal Highness permit me to pay my homage and

to offer your Royal Highness my services?" "So you have finally left

Salzburg?" "I have left it forever, your Royal Highness. I only asked

leave to make a journey, and being refused, I was obliged to take this

step, although I have long intended to leave Salzburg, which is no place

for me, I feel sure." "Good heavens! you are quite a young man. But your

father is still in Salzburg?" "Yes, your Royal Highness; he humbly lays

his homage at your feet, &c., &c. I have already been three times in

Italy. I have written three operas, and am a member of the Bologna

Academy; I underwent a trial where several maestri toiled and labored

for four or five hours, whereas I finished my work in one. This is

a sufficient testimony that I have abilities to serve any court. My

greatest wish is to be appointed by your Royal Highness, who is himself

such a great &c., &c." "But, my good young friend, I regret that there

is not a single vacancy. If there were only a vacancy!" "I can assure

your Royal Highness that I would do credit to Munich." "Yes, but what

does that avail when there is no vacancy?" This he said as he was moving

on; so I bowed and took leave of his Royal Highness. Herr Woschitka

advises me to place myself often in the way of the Elector. This

afternoon I went to Count Salern's. His daughter is a maid of honor, and

was one of the hunting-party. Ravani and I were in the street when the

whole procession passed. The Elector and the Electress noticed me very

kindly. Young Countess Salern recognized me at once, and waved her

hand to me repeatedly. Baron Rumling, whom I had previously seen in the

antechamber, never was so courteous to me as on this occasion. I will

soon write to you what passed with Salern. He was very kind, polite, and

straightforward.--P. S. Ma tres-chere soeur, next time I mean to write

you a letter all for yourself. My remembrances to B. C. M. R. and

various other letters of the alphabet. Adieu! A man built a house here

and inscribed on it: "Building is beyond all doubt an immense pleasure,

but I little thought that it would cost so much treasure." During the

night some one wrote underneath, "You ought first to have counted the

cost."

62.

Munich, Oct. 2, 1777.

YESTERDAY, October 1st, I was again at Count Salern's, and to-day I even

dined with him. I have played a great deal during the last three days,

and with right good will too. Papa must not, however, imagine that I

like to be at Count Salern's on account of the young lady; by no means,

for she is unhappily in waiting, and therefore never at home, but I am

to see her at court to-morrow morning, at ten o'clock, in company with

Madame Hepp, formerly Madlle. Tosson. On Saturday the court leaves this,

and does not return till the 20th. To-morrow I am to dine with Madame

and Madlle. de Branca, the latter being a kind of half pupil of mine,

for Sigl seldom comes, and Becke, who usually accompanies her on the

flute, is not here. On the three days that I was at Count Salern's I

played a great many things extempore--two Cassations [Divertimentos]

for the Countess, and the finale and Rondo, and the latter by heart.

You cannot imagine the delight this causes Count Salern. He understands

music, for he was constantly saying Bravo! while other gentlemen were

taking snuff, humming and hawing, and clearing their throats, or holding

forth. I said to him, "How I do wish the Elector were only here, that he

might hear me play! He knows nothing of me--he does not know what I can

do. How sad it is that these great gentlemen should believe what any one

tells them, and do not choose to judge for themselves! BUT IT IS ALWAYS

SO. Let him put me to the test. He may assemble all the composers in

Munich, and also send in quest of some from Italy and France, Germany,

and England and Spain, and I will undertake to write against them all."

I related to him all that had occurred to me in Italy, and begged him,

if the conversation turned on me, to bring in these things. He said, "I

have very little influence, but the little that is in my power I will

do with pleasure." He is also decidedly of opinion that if I could only

remain here, the affair would come right of itself. It would not be

impossible for me to contrive to live, were I alone here, for I should

get at least 300 florins from Count Seeau. My board would cost little,

for I should be often invited out; and even were it not so, Albert would

always be charmed to see me at dinner in his house. I eat little, drink

water, and for dessert take only a little fruit and a small glass

of wine. Subject to the advice of my kind friends, I would make the

following contract with Count Seeau:--I would engage to produce every

year four German operas, partly buffe and partly serie; from each of

these I should claim the profits of one performance, for such is the

custom here. This alone would bring me in 500 florins, which along with

my salary would make up 800 florins, but in all probability more; for

Reiner, an actor and singer, cleared 200 florins by his benefit, and

I am VERY MUCH BELOVED HERE, and how much more so should I be if I

contributed to the elevation of the national theatre of Germany in

music! And this would certainly be the case with me, for I was inspired

with the most eager desire to write when I heard the German operettas.

The name of the first singer here is Keiserin; her father is cook to a

count here; she is a very pleasing girl, and pretty on the stage; I have

not yet seen her near. She is a native of this place. When I heard her

it was only her third appearance on the stage. She has a fine voice, not

powerful, though by no means weak, very pure, and a good intonation.

Her instructor is Valesi; and her style of singing shows that her master

knows how to sing as well as how to teach. When she sustains her

voice for a couple of bars, I am quite surprised at the beauty of her

crescendo and decrescendo. She as yet takes her shakes slowly, and this

I highly approve of, for it will be all the more pure and clear if she

ever wishes to take it quicker; besides, it is easier when quick. She is

a great favorite with the people here, and with me.

Mamma was in the pit; she went as early as half-past four o'clock to get

a place. I, however, did not go till half-past six o'clock, for I can go

to any box I please, being pretty well known. I was in the Brancas' box;

I looked at Keiserin with my opera-glass, and at times she drew tears

from my eyes. I often called out bravo, bravissimo, for I always

remembered that it was only her third appearance. The piece was Das

Fischermadchen, a very good translation of Piccini's opera, with his

music. As yet they have no original pieces, but are now anxious soon

to give a German opera seria, and a strong wish prevails that I should

compose it. The aforesaid Professor Huber is one of those who wish

this. I shall now go to bed, for I can sit up no longer. It is just ten

o'clock. Baron Rumling lately paid me the following compliment: "The

theatre is my delight--good actors and actresses, good singers, and a

clever composer, such as yourself." This is indeed only talk, and words

are not of much value, but he never before spoke to me in this way.

I write this on the 3d of October. To-morrow the court departs, and does

not return till the 20th. If it had remained here, I would have taken

the step I intended, and stayed on here for a time; but as it is, I hope

to resume my journey with mamma next Tuesday. But meanwhile the project

of the associated friends, which I lately wrote to you about, may be

realized, so that when we no longer care to travel we shall have a

resource to fall back upon. Herr von Krimmel was to-day with the Bishop

of Chiemsee, with whom he has a good deal to do on the subject of salt.

He is a strange man; here he is called "your Grace,"--that is, THE

LACKEYS do so. Having a great desire that I should remain here, he spoke

very zealously to the Prince in my favor. He said to me, "Only let me

alone; I will speak to the Prince, and I have a right to do so, for I

have done many things to oblige him." The Prince promised him that I

should POSITIVELY be appointed, but the affair cannot be so quickly

settled. On the return of the court he is to speak to the Elector with

all possible earnestness and zeal. At eight o'clock this morning I

called on Count Seeau. I was very brief, and merely said, "I have only

come, your Excellency, to explain my case clearly. I have been told that

I ought to go to Italy, which is casting a reproach on me. I was sixteen

months in Italy, I have written three operas, and all this is notorious

enough. What further occurred, your Excellency will see from these

papers." And after showing him the diplomata, I added, "I only show

these and say this to your Excellency that, in the event of my being

spoken of, and any injustice done me, your Excellency may with good

grounds take my part." He asked me if I was now going to France. I said

I intended to remain in Germany; by this, however, he supposed I meant

Munich, and said, with a merry laugh, "So you are to stay here after

all?" I replied, "No! to tell you the truth, I should like to have

stayed, if the Elector had favored me with a small sum, so that I might

then have offered my compositions to your Excellency devoid of all

interested motives. It would have been a pleasure to me to do this." At

these words he half lifted his skull-cap.

At ten o'clock I went to court to call on Countess Salern. I dined

afterwards with the Brancas. Herr Geheimrath von Branca, having been

invited by the French Ambassador, was not at home. He is called "your

Excellency." Countess Salern is a Frenchwoman, and scarcely knows a word

of German; so I have always been in the habit of talking French to her.

I do so quite boldly, and she says that I don't speak at all badly,

and that I have the good habit of speaking slowly, which makes me more

easily understood. She is a most excellent person, and very well-bred.

The daughter plays nicely, but fails in time. I thought this arose from

want of ear on her part, but I find I can blame no one but her teacher,

who is too indulgent and too easily satisfied. I practised with her

to-day, and I could pledge myself that if she were to learn from me for

a couple of months, she would play both well and accurately.

At four o'clock I went to Frau von Tosson's, where I found mamma and

also Frau von Hepp. I played there till eight o'clock, and after that

we went home; and at half-past nine a small band of music arrived,

consisting of five persons--two clarionet-players, two horns, and one

bassoon. Herr Albert (whose name-day is to-morrow) arranged this music

in honor of me and himself. They played rather well together, and were

the same people whom we hear during dinner at Albert's, but it is well

known that they are trained by Fiala. They played some of his pieces,

and I must say they are very pretty: he has some excellent ideas.

To-morrow we are to have a small musical party together, where I am

to play. (Nota bene, on that miserable piano! oh, dear! oh, dear! oh,

dear!) I beg you will excuse my horrid writing, but ink, haste, sleep,

and dreams are all against me. I am now and forever amen, your dutiful

son,

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