Berbische, June.
On the 10th inst. a sloop arrived from Demarara, bringing us news of the
surrender of St. Lucie: but stating only the simple fact, unconfirmed by
any authentic details. Still we cheerfully hail the tidings, not
doubting but the conquest has been honorable to our countrymen and
comrades.
Since I wrote to you last we have had the misfortune to lose one of the
soldiers by the disease called coup de soleil, or ictus solis. The poor
man was on guard and stationed as sentinel to take his turn of duty for
two hours at the gate of the fort, but before this short period had
elapsed he was seized, fell down suddenly, and expired at his post. The
day was excessively hot, and the perpendicular rays of the sun struck
directly upon his head. Others of the men have likewise experienced the
disease, but we have only, in this instance, seen it fatal.
I may also mention a very marked and melancholy case of yellow fever
which has occurred at Fort St. Andrew, affording a striking example of
the nature of this afflicting malady. A grenadier named Llewellyn, a
handsome, well-made man, of robust figure, was brought into the
hospital, complaining only of an uneasy sensation about the region of
the stomach, which although indescribable, conveyed to him an early
assurance of the fatal tendency of the disease, with which he was
attacked. On asking him to explain his complaints, and the feelings
which so alarmed him, he replied, “_I feel that I shall die_,” and
placing his hand over his stomach, said he had “something there” that
would soon kill him. We used all the means in our power to divert him
from this desponding impression; but in vain! Nothing, he said, could
restore him, for he knew the hand of death was upon him. He evidently
laboured under an attack of the disorder, termed _yellow fever_; but,
with the exception of this fatal sensation, no symptom was present which
could have led to the apprehension of immediate danger. At my next
visit, on the following morning, I found him sitting up, and apparently
somewhat relieved; but on my asking him how he was, he still replied,
“_Dying! I feel that I shall soon be gone._” He continued perfectly
rational and collected until the next day; when, alas! death but too
surely confirmed the accuracy of his predictions. From the moment of
attack he had been assured, that nothing could save him! The
indescribable feeling he complained of, seemed to induce a rapid
exhaustion of the vital powers, while it formed, not only the leading
feature, but almost the only symptom of the disease.
Upon examination, we found the same redness of the inner coat of the
stomach, which we had observed in all cases after yellow fever: in the
lungs also were some strong marks of recent inflammation.
I mentioned in a former letter that alligators were in the list of our
neighbours at Fort St. Andrew. They abound in the adjoining savanna, and
in their journey down a small muddy stream to the river, they often
visit the fosse surrounding the fort; and sometimes are even bold enough
to ascend the works, and creep over the ramparts. One of them lately
alarmed a sentinel in the night, by suddenly approaching him as he was
standing at his post within the fort. The soldier, terrified at so
unexpected a visitor, in the impulse of surprise fired upon the animal,
and spread an alarm throughout the garrison. The guard instantly turned
out, and all the troops were roused, and flying to arms, in the idea
that the enemy was about to land. But lo! the frightened crocodile
retreated, and the soldiers had only to return to their beds!
We have since had one of these frightful amphibia killed; and a more
hideous specimen of the animal creation could scarcely be met with. It
appeared the most forbidding of nature’s forms. The green eyes, the
sharp teeth and monstrous jaws, the strong waving tail, the hard
impenetrable skin, and the short thick legs, and formidable claws,
together with the circumstance of its crawling so near the earth, render
the alligator a real object of horror. He is well armed both for attack
and defence: while his scaly horn-like skin serves as a protecting coat
of mail, he possesses, as an assailant, the devouring grasp of his
shark-like teeth, and the ability of striking a blow with his shell-like
tail, which might knock a man down, or fracture his legs. His limbs are
also of peculiar strength, and are each armed with four powerful claws.
With all this strength of form, and of action, he is singularly
tenacious of life: indeed, by the common means of destruction it is
impossible at once to deprive him of animation; for however cut, beaten,
or torn, still signs of vitality remain for a considerable time. It is
only with extreme difficulty that he is conquered in the first instance,
and, even when subdued, to kill him is still a task. Unless at certain
parts, a musket-ball will not penetrate his skin, and a violent blow
scarcely does him any injury. If cut, or torn in pieces, and left to
appearance dead, he, for a long time after, exhibits marks of sensation
upon being touched.
The one we destroyed was first shot in the head, but he was still a most
dangerous and active enemy, and had nearly seized one of the negroes by
the leg. Notwithstanding his being wounded, he remained unsubdued until
he had received many severe blows behind the neck; and for long after
this he struck very forcibly with his tail. Further attempts were made
to kill him, but, as late as two hours from the time he was conquered,
he pressed my hand with considerable force, on my taking hold of one of
his claws; for several hours after, he continued to show signs of life,
and it was even difficult to mark the moment when it became extinct. It
was my intention that you should some day see his formidable coat of
armour, and for that purpose, I had given directions to have it
carefully preserved; but from waiting to know that the creature was
actually dead, before we stripped him of his skin, we unluckily lost
him, and I shall only be able to present you with his claws. Having left
him near the hospital whilst we walked into the fort, the negroes took
an opportunity of stealing him away; and, on returning, we found our
alligator chopped in pieces, and already stewing into soup—the slaves
anticipating the mess, as a delicious feast. The meat was white, and not
unlike the flesh of a rabbit. But for the common prejudice attaching to
its form, perhaps the alligator, as food, might not be found inferior to
other amphibious animals: possibly it might be equal to our rich turtle,
or the more delicate frogs of France.
We have lately made a party from the fort, and spent two most pleasant
days—one at the governor’s, the other with Mr. Blair, an opulent
planter, residing at a short distance down the coast on the opposite
shore of the river.
At the governor’s a dance and fête were given in the evening to the
slaves, and we were extremely delighted to see how much they enjoyed
themselves. They assembled in the great hall of the government-house,
having a violin, with the fife and drum for their band. Both negroes and
mulattoes danced with a degree of animation and pleasure, which bespake
them free from care. The governor, his lady, his sister, several
gentlemen of the colony, and our party from the fort, attended as
spectators, and were all amused and gratified in witnessing this merry
dance of slaves.
Until now I had only seen the slaves perform the rude African dance upon
the open green, and had not imagined them to be capable of moving with
such order as they here exhibited in regular country dances. Even
minuets were led down, in precise and stately step, and with a decree of
ease and gracefulness of movement which are seldom witnessed among the
common people of England.
In the course of the evening a circumstance occurred which had nearly
interrupted the order and harmony of the fête: but it terminated with
only affording to the governor a pleasing and facetious opportunity of
convincing us of his intimate knowledge of the English language. In the
midst of the dance three officers of our army and navy, who were not of
the party invited, and who had been devoting rather too freely to the
rosy god, came staggering, abruptly, into the hall. One of them, with
the busy officiousness of inebriety, insisted upon introducing the
others to Madame Van Battenburg: but he had forgotten his English! or,
in the confidence inspired by wine, was ambitious to display his
knowledge of French; and therefore addressed her only in the latter
dialect, speaking it so incorrectly that it was difficult to comprehend
what he said, or rather what he meant to say. Alarmed at his condition,
Madame Van Battenburg begged to be protected lest he should tumble
against her; and true enough, at this moment, the poor captain fell
sprawling at her feet. After much exertion, and with some assistance, he
rose up, and supported himself upon his legs. He had now to make his
apologies, which were likewise attempted in broken French, too bad to be
understood. During all this his companions were reeling about the hall,
but, regardless of them, he continued to persecute Madame Van Battenburg
with his bad French, insisting that either she or Mademoiselle Van
Battenburg should join him in the dance: “_Venez, venez, Madame_,” said
he, “_il faut danser—voulez vous viens danser avec moi?_” but finding he
could not prevail with either of the ladies, he suddenly turned from
them, and happening to stumble again upon his companions, each of them
seized a sable damsel, and dragging their partners into the row, took
their places in the dance. But it soon appeared that they could perform
only _reels_, and the country dances being interrupted by their
presence, it became necessary to lead away these _slaves ... of the
bottle_, in order to prevent both the spectators, and the dancers from
being deprived of their amusement; accordingly, with some trouble, they
were conducted to the barrack. Madame Van Battenburg feeling surprised
at our intoxicated captain speaking to her only in unintelligible
French, mentioned it as remarkable, that he did not utter one syllable
of English: when the governor replied, “No, my dear! it is not at all
strange that Captain —— should not speak English to-night! on the
contrary it is highly proper and correct: you know he is a British
officer; and it would be disloyal in a British officer _to clip the
King’s English_.” On another occasion this agreeable Dutchman gave a
similar proof of his close acquaintance with our language. One day as
they were sitting over the bottle, he and an officer of the navy debated
respecting some captured property, which the governor considered as
private, and the officer as public. The former urged that it was sacred,
and ought not to be confiscated; while the latter insisted that it was
colonial, and should be condemned for the benefit of the captors. Each
maintained his opinion with amicable warmth—neither yielding to the
other. In the evening a ball was given to the party at the governor’s
house; when, in the mirthful dance, the officer, perhaps a little
elevated by the debate, or _the bottle_, took Madame Van Battenburg in
his arms and saluted her. The governor observing it, instantly called
out with emphasis, “Very well, captain! Do you not consider that
_private property_ either?” Perhaps few foreigners, who have not resided
a long time in England, have acquired a more just idea of the spirit of
our tongue. The governor is an agreeable well-informed man; and a social
companion. His address is genteel, and his manners are polished. He is
hospitable and friendly: his mind is highly cultivated, and in his
conduct he obtains general respect and esteem. His door is always open
to his friends, the officers are frequently invited to his table, and he
allows them to consider his house as a home.
Madame Van Battenburg is cheerful and entertaining. Her disposition is
lively and animated; she sings very sweetly, and in conversation is
sprightly and affable. She emulates the governor in his friendly
hospitality, and, together, they make their abode pleasant and familiar
to us all.
There being neither coffee-house nor tavern at New Amsterdam, and the
government-house being most conveniently situated at the landing-place
on the bank of the river, we are happy to avail ourselves of the kind
offer of the governor, to make his mansion our resting-place, and point
of rendezvous, in our occasional visits to the town.
To speak of the sumptuous entertainment we had at Mr. Blair’s were to
throw an air of doubt upon my former notes regarding the paucity of
fresh provisions in these colonies. But let it be remembered that
individuals of large estate may find the means of procuring a most ample
supply for their own tables, although the colony may not furnish an
overplus to send to the public market. At Berbische fresh animal food is
provided for the troops more frequently than we had been able to procure
it at Demarara.
Mr. Blair is one of the most opulent planters in these parts. At his
place of residence, stock and provisions are in sufficient abundance to
enable him to treat his friends with the most splendid liberality. He is
generous and social, and the riches of his table are dispensed with all
the bounty of his nature. Instead of a plain cottage just rising from
the wild woods of an infant settlement, we might have fancied ourselves
feasting in one of the hospitable mansions of Old England, or in some
chartered hall even of voluptuous London itself.
The house is a compact dwelling, neatly built of plain timber, offering,
in its exterior, nothing to attract the stranger’s eye, nor to bespeak
the many luxuries within. It stands on the border of the sea, open to
the wide ocean. Before it, is an extensive and flat beach of firm sand,
forming a pleasant ride or walk at the side of the water. The estate is
quite in its infancy, being recently formed out of the rude forest, and
only now breaking into cultivation. In great part of it the young plants
of cotton are just shooting from the soil between the remaining stumps
of trees lately destroyed. There being no market in the colony, each
planter’s abode must furnish all within itself; every necessary, every
comfort, all that is given, or enjoyed, must be found in the house or
upon the plantation, yet in such plenty were they served at this
prolific home, that one might have fancied a Covent-garden, or a
Leadenhall market to have been near.
A large and very handsome boat was sent for our conveyance, having an
awning at the stern to protect us from the sun; and we were rowed across
the mouth of the river by eight of the finest slaves of the estate, who
pulled us on with surprising speed. At the landing-place another party
of slaves attended with horses to conduct us to the house. The sun was
extremely powerful, but we had a delightful ride about a mile and a half
through fields of cotton and of plantains; the negroes running at the
horses’ sides, according to the custom of the country, as fast as we
chose to proceed.
Hock and Seltzer water were presented immediately on our arrival, and
the time, until dinner, was most gratefully occupied in the perusal of a
packet of newspapers, just arrived from England: than which, perhaps, a
greater treat could not have been offered us. For dinner we had
excellent soup, with boiled fish, stewed fish, and fish in pie; also
turtle, and crabs, most exquisitely dressed, forming two uncommonly rich
and high-seasoned dishes. We had likewise a side of lamb, a fine goose,
a large ham, &c. &c. After these followed a complete course of sweets.
The cook was quite a proficient, and did great justice to the
entertainment, the whole dinner being well dressed, and as well served.
We had afterwards pines, shaddocks, melons, water-lemons, and multitudes
of other fruits. Hock, Claret, Madeira, and Port wines were in liberal
use. We had also Seltzer and Spa waters, bottled small beer, ale,
porter, brandy, rum, Hollands, noyeau, and several different
liqueurs—all in supply sufficient for a lord mayor’s feast.
After our eating and drinking we took a walk about the plantation, and
found every corner of it equally bounteous as the table and the cellar.
Such a store of living stock, both large and small, I had not seen upon
any estate since my arrival in the Western world. A more gratifying
assemblage of domestic plenty could scarcely be found in any country.
Among the stock I should not omit to mention, a pen of living turtles
kept in readiness for the table: large droves of crabs were also running
about near the door; and the neighbouring sea is, at all times, made
tributary to the board. Several hundreds of negroes employed at work, or
moving from place to place, improved the variety of the scene, while
they added essentially to the value of the home. Together with the
abundance of usual productions at this all-supplying abode were likewise
some of the more rare and curious specimens, such as the small
lion-monkey; and the large powys, or wild turkey of the woods; also the
trumpeter, the fly-catcher, and several other uncommon birds. Our walk
was highly gratifying, and offered much to excite, as well as to
interest our contemplations. We extended it to the seabeach, and found
the sand flat and firm as a bowling-green, and of a dark brown colour,
neither liable to be blown into the eyes, nor to offend them by its
brightness. A cool sea breeze adds to the many advantages of this
situation: it is always free and pure, there being nothing to impede or
contaminate it between the house and the ocean. After it grew dark a
rubber was proposed as the amusement of the evening: but cards had no
power to attract the majority of us from the _dear_ unfinished Times and
Chronicle. We slept in hammocks according to the common mode of the
country, and a most convenient mode it is, for a very large party may be
thus accommodated in a small house, it being only necessary to hang up
as many hammocks as there are persons. Neither beds, sheets, nor
blankets are required, for the hammock includes them all, and serves as
bedstead, mattress, and coverlet besides!
The next morning I rose at an early hour, and took a walk before
breakfast, to visit what is here termed the “yaw-house;” a kind of
hospital, placed at a distance from all the other buildings, for the use
of such of the negroes as may be afflicted with that hideous and
distressing disorder, the yaws. Here I saw some most striking pictures
of human misery—sad objects of compassion, and disgust! Not to
commiserate their sufferings were impossible, but their offensive and
diseased appearance creates a sense of horror on beholding them. Of all
the unsightly disorders which the human body is heir to, this is perhaps
the worst. Imagine to yourself a group of meager sickly-looking negroes,
with their bones almost piercing their unhealthy skins, and their bodies
beset with ragged noxious sores, and ulcerous excrescences, and you will
have some idea of the wretched inhabitants of _a yaw-house_. Congregated
disease, crowded suffering, and accumulated wretchedness are spectacles
common to the eyes of medical men: they have been long familiar to mine!
Yet the effect of this scene was too impressive ever to be effaced from
my mind. Some of these truly pitiable beings were crouching upon their
haunches round a smoky fire, some stood trembling on their sadly
ulcerated limbs, others, supporting themselves by a large stick, were
dragging their emaciated bodies from place to place; while many, too
feeble to rise, lay shivering with pain and torture upon the bare boards
of a wooden platform.
Unhappily for our species, this most odious distemper is contagious, and
readily communicated from one person to another; nor has it been found
to yield easily to the power of medicine. It often exists for years, and
commonly its removal is more the effect of time and regimen than of
medical treatment.
When a negro is attacked with this cruel disorder, he is separated from
his fellow-slaves, and sent to the yaw-house to remain until he shall
recover. Usually it is six, often twelve months, or even more, before he
is again fit to return amidst the gang. An improved diet, with
cleanliness, pure air, and sea-bathing are most conducive to his
recovery; whence it may be inferred that filthiness, and poverty of
food, are among the occasional causes of the disease. From its
resemblance to an afflicting malady, but too well known in Europe,
mercury has been much employed as a remedy, but, unfortunately, with
very little success.
I may here announce to you that another excursion of a more extensive
nature has been projected, for the purpose of visiting the planters’
estates in the remotest parts of the colony; and of proceeding up the
river even beyond the farthest settlement of the colonists, in order to
see the Indians in their native dwellings amidst the deep woods. If it
takes place, I shall endeavour to be one of the party; and shall not be
the first who will propose to return.