Demarara, April 28.
Having secure possession of the colony of Essequibo and Demarara, a
division of our armament has been detached to the attack of the
adjoining settlement of Berbische, which separates us from Surinam.
The whole of the coast not being yet cleared of its wild woods, no
regular road is established between the two colonies, although Demarara
and Berbische lie contiguous to each other: hence this, like most of our
expeditions, is exposed to all the uncertainties of the wind and the
ocean. The troops were embarked on board small sloops and schooners,
calculated for the shallow waters of this muddy coast; and it is
expected that they will reach Berbische to-morrow evening, or the
following morning, the distance between the two great rivers, which give
names to the colonies, being but little more than twenty leagues.
We are taught that it will not be possible to procure fresh animal
provisions in these colonies, in the quantity necessary for the army;
but it is suggested that we may obtain a supply from the Spaniards, who
have great numbers of wild cattle, in the island of Trinidad, and upon
the neighbouring coast of Oronoko. Vegetables and fruits we find, here,
in great plenty. The market, as at Barbadoes, is held on Sunday, and is
supplied by means of what the negroes either grow, or steal.
Being anxious to provide for the sick, in the best way that was in my
power, I became, on Sunday last, quite a forestaller of the market. It
will, perhaps, surprise you to learn that among our purchases I bought a
hamper of pines, nearly as heavy as a negro could carry, for the small
sum of _three bits_. On counting them over, I found that I had seventeen
large pines for fifteen-pence, being somewhat less than a penny each.
On our arrival in the town of Stabroek, we met with an infuriated
citizen-republican in one of the inhabitants, whose rash and jacobinical
zeal outran all the bounds of discretion. He not only avowed, but sought
to inculcate the most violent revolutionary principles; and although he
had much cause of distress, from domestic affliction, he could not
resist the pleasure of grossly abusing the “_English aristocrats_,” and
indulging in loud political declamation! His wife had died the evening
the Dutch garrison surrendered; but the colony becoming subject to the
“_monarchical English_,” was deeper grief to this _modern_ republican,
than the loss of his wife. Religion, and even its forms seem to be,
here, dispensed with, for they have neither a place of worship, nor of
interment. Citizen M— followed his poor unlamented wife to the fields,
and there consigned her to a hole in the earth, uttering his grief in
loud curses against ... _the aristocrats_!
A few days since I had an opportunity of dining in company with several
of the planters of this colony, who have estates upon the seacoast; and
I could not but remark a striking difference between these gentlemen,
and those who reside constantly in Stabroek, or in Bridge-town; compared
to whom they would seem the more robust inhabitants of a temperate
climate. Both in countenance and in general stamina, they are very
unlike the sallow-looking subjects of the towns. To find any of the
colonists with such strong and healthy frames, was particularly
satisfactory to me, having been impressed with a contrary expectation,
from the discouraging reports I had heard regarding these settlements.
From all that I had collected upon the subject, I understood it to be a
generally received opinion at Barbadoes, and the neighbouring islands,
that the climate upon the coast of Guiana was, singularly, unhealthy:
but the appearance of the gentlemen alluded to is sufficient to rescue
it from a prejudice so unwarranted.
I have made a visit to a coffee plantation, near the town, where I saw
an extensive display of the luxuriancy of the soil of Guiana. This
estate differs from the wide fields upon the coast, only in being a flat
surface of coffee, instead of cotton; but it is rendered rich and
inviting, from being traversed with green walks, shaded with fine rows
of trees, whose loaded branches bend under the various species of
tropical fruits, serving, at the same time, to delight the eye, regale
the olfactories, and refresh the palate. A pleasant path, more than a
mile in length, and of sufficient width for carriages, leads down the
middle of the estate, the sides being decorated with mangoes, oranges,
avagata-pears, and many other kinds of fruit.
Crossing this walk, near the centre, is a thick grove of many hundreds
of orange-trees, clad in all the variety of umbrageous foliage, fragrant
blossoms, unripe _green_ and ripe _golden_ fruit.
In the genial climate of Europe, how delightful would be fields or
gardens thus planted, and how exquisitely enjoyed! But, here, under the
scorchings of a torrid sun, while the eye, and the olfactories, and the
palate are gratified, the tortured sense of feeling precludes every
possibility of comfort. If exposed to the open sun, the excess of heat
produces insupportable languor and fatigue; and if we seek the
protecting shade of the fruit-trees, we are, there, plagued with the
sharp bitings of myriads of musquitoes.
Invited by the grateful odour, and taking advantage of the cool shade, I
left the broad and heated path, to ramble in the sweet avenues of the
orange grove, but, ere my foot had traced its second step in the soft
grass, I was beset by thousands of these tormenting insects, and
compelled to make a hasty retreat.
In my escape I experienced more courteous fare; for, upon turning from
the shaded path, a very fine mulatto woman of the house, seeing me
walking, and observing me to be a stranger, came out, with a plate of
the sweetest oranges of the grove, and, inviting me to eat, with much
gracefulness and urbanity, bade me welcome.
Presently afterwards I met a robust negro carrying a heavy basket of
fruit upon his head, and, asking him how they disposed of the immense
numbers of oranges growing upon the estate, he replied “Gib ’em to de
neighbours, Massa.” Availing myself of this information, I wrote to
Mynheer Meertens, the attorney of the estate, and have obtained
permission to gather basketsful of oranges for the sick soldiers,
whenever I please.
I should feel it an unworthy omission not to give you a copy of Mynheer
Meertens’ obliging note to the manager, after reading my request. It was
as follows: “Monsr. Keller, à l’habitation Vlessingen, aura la bonté de
procurer, de tems en tems, pour les militaires qui sont malades, les
fruits tels qu’ils s’y trouvent. Il obligera son très humble serviteur,”
“A. MEERTENS.”
During the few days, since our arrival here, events and circumstances
have occurred, as if they had been designed expressly to place before us
what was likely to be most striking to Europeans. Already we have
witnessed the humiliating, but very interesting sight of a cargo of
several hundreds of human subjects being landed from a slave-ship, and
exposed to public sale; and on the other hand, naked beings, who range
in the utmost freedom of human nature, have presented themselves in
crowds to our observation; parties of copper-coloured Indians, from the
wild woods, having come down the river in their canoes to visit the
town. It has also happened to me to be addressed by a wretched slave,
strongly intreating me to purchase her from her master; and I have
further witnessed with surprise, the more than apathy, perhaps I might
say, the exultation of a white lady, on hearing the cries of a negro
suffering under the whip. Likewise the honor has been done me of having
a young slave placed by my elbow at dinner-time, with a fragrant bough
to defend me from the flies; and I have been complimented with a negro
to sleep at my bed-room door, in order to be in readiness, in case I
should require him to beat off the musquitoes, or to bring me any thing
in the night.
It proves that we are here just in time to witness the setting in of the
rainy season; it having announced itself by the falling of rapid showers
almost every morning since our landing: and, amidst all the novelties of
this moment, I must not forget to add, that I now experience the
tormenting sensation of having my whole skin thickly beset with prickly
heat.
We find that the Western code of hospitality, so prominent at Barbadoes,
is not confined to that island. It extends equally to the coast of South
America. The planters, whom I have had the pleasure to meet at Stabroek,
have invited me, in the most cordial manner, to their several homes,
offering me every accommodation at their plantations in the country,
whenever I may find time to visit them.
I should tell you that the unhappy slave, who came to me to intreat that
I would purchase her, was a very decent young woman, here termed a
“house-wench.” The hardships and ill treatment she had suffered, had
created, she said, such an entire dislike to her present home, that if
she could find no “_good Massa_” who would buy her, she had determined
to try to escape from her misery by running away. The poor creature
shuddered as she mentioned this expedient, sensible that if she should
be retaken, her sufferings, great as they were, would be sadly
multiplied. Still she declared she was firmly resolved to hazard the
attempt, rather than continue her, now, wretched life, hopeless of
relief.
The heavy tear swelled on her dark cheek as she related the severities
to which she had been subjected. Her tale was at once interesting and
distressful. It needed not the aid of eloquence to move compassion. The
simple narration of the cruelties imposed, and the punishments inflicted
for only trivial faults, instantly roused the feelings, and in strong
appeal begat a new regret that hosts of human creatures, for the mere
lucre of a few of their fellow-beings, differing in the colour of their
skin, should be degraded to a situation, which not only deprives them of
the command of their persons, but, also, robs them of all the powers of
will.
Divested of every right, a slave has no redress, not even against the
bitterest wrongs: however oppressed, however injured, he has no
resource—no means of relief! Not having the power of changing his home,
he has no escape from ill usage or cruelty; but is condemned to travel
the long journey of life in hopeless discontent.
The corporal punishment of slaves is so common, that instead of exciting
the repugnant sensations, felt by Europeans on first witnessing it,
scarcely does it produce, in the breasts of those accustomed to the West
Indies, even the slightest glow of compassion. The lady I have above
alluded to appears of good natural disposition, and in no degree
disposed to general cruelty; but the frequency of the sight has rendered
her callous to its usual influence upon the feelings. Being one morning
at her house, while sitting in conversation, we suddenly heard the loud
cries of a negro smarting under the whip. Mrs. —— expressed surprise on
observing me shudder at his shrieks, and you will believe that I was in
utter astonishment to find her treat his sufferings as matter of
amusement. It proved that the punishment proceeded from the arm of the
lady’s husband, and fell upon one of her own slaves! Can you believe
that on learning this, she exclaimed with a broad smile, “Aha! it will
do him good! a little wholesome flagellation will refresh him: it will
sober him: it will open his skin, and make him alert. If Y— was to give
it them all, it would be of service to them!”
I could not compliment the lady upon her humanity. The loud clang of the
whip continued, and the poor imploring negro as loudly cried, “_Oh
Massa, Massa,—God a’mighty—God bless you, Massa! I beg you pardon! Oh!
Massa, Oh! I beg you pardon! Oh! God—a’mighty—God bless you!_”—Still the
whip sounded aloud, and still the lady cried “Ay, it is very necessary!”
Such is the effect of habit in subduing even our most amiable emotions.
Could this lady have known how much her remarks deformed her, policy
would have led, no doubt, to a different expression, although humanity
had not taught, nor custom allowed her to possess a better sentiment!
What would you say were you to see me return home rich as a West India
planter? Sanguine whisper fondly augments the value of our captured
property to upwards of £200,000! We hear of various ships, of extensive
stores, of large estates, and of whole gangs of slaves, all public
property, to be confiscated for the benefit of the _captors_; and from
my being here, in the direction of a department, I am told, that I ought
to calculate upon receiving a sum by no means despicable. My
expectations, however, do not run very high, being aware of the close
meltings, which such kind of property usually undergoes, before it
becomes sufficiently refined for the pockets of the claimants[7].