Barbadoes, Feb.
Having fatigued you, in my late letters, with tedious notes, concerning
the slaves and their customs, I feel happy to have it in my power to
introduce you to the society of their masters. Through the friendly
medium of Mr. Benjamin Hinde, a merchant of great respectability in
Bridge-town, we have been made known to several gentlemen who reside in
the country, and are of importance in the island: and who, with the most
liberal and friendly hospitality, offer us the means of seeing the whole
of Barbadoes, and of witnessing the customs and manners of its
inhabitants. It were unnecessary to remark that this will be a great
source of gratification, and will lead us to rejoice in the event, while
we lament the cause of our delay.
We have made a ride about four miles into the country, to dine with one
of our professional brethren, Dr. Hinde, a man of high acquirements, and
sound knowledge. He was educated in England, and remained many years, in
the prosecution of his studies, at Cambridge. Until lately he employed
himself in the practice of medicine, at Bridge-town; but he has now
retired, in great part, from the fatigues of medical occupation, to
engage in the more genial, and more lucrative employment of a planter.
To the inhabitants of the town this is a severe loss; and they, justly,
lament the absence of a man not less endeared to them by his urbanity
and private worth, than by his eminent professional talents.
We enjoyed exceedingly the ride to the doctor’s estate; which is
situated upon much higher ground than the immediate environs of
Bridge-town; the country rising towards the interior of the island, in
elevated ranges of distinct table-land. At one spot we ascended by a
very steep road, and, having reached the summit of the acclivity, found
ourselves again upon an extensive plain. Soon afterwards we came to
another rocky precipice, and having mounted this, by a path of difficult
ascent, we arrived upon another, and still higher range of table-land.
From the points of these sudden elevations we commanded extensive and
pleasing views of the country below, of Bridge-town, of the sea, and of
the shipping in Carlisle Bay.
The land is cultivated in open fields: hedges, walls, and all the usual
fences seem to be unknown; nor does the eye discover any distinct
separation of the different estates; but it ranges, uninterrupted, over
a wide-extended surface, richly spread with the various productions of a
tropical soil, and pleasantly interpersed with the mansions of the
_whites_, and the huts of the _blacks_. Cotton, pigeon pease, and Guinea
corn, constitute the chief produce of this part of the island. Some
fields of aloes, and of plantains, were also seen: but a degree of
nakedness was perceptible from the want of wood, of which there is not a
sufficiency to give a general richness to the landscape, although about
the great _Backra_-houses there are several fine groves of the coco-nut
and the majestic mountain-cabbage trees.
We arrived about two o’clock, having made our ride in the strongest heat
of the day; but from the purity and freshness of the air, and from the
country being more elevated, as we advanced, we felt no degree of
languor or oppression, from a full exposure to the sun. At the doctor’s
house, in consequence of the situation and construction of the building,
we felt it cooler than either in Bridge-town, or Carlisle Bay. The party
at dinner consisted of eight ladies, and fourteen gentlemen; the
attendants were also numerous, yet, notwithstanding the number of
persons in the room, and the many smoking dishes on the table, the
steady perflation of the breeze kept us sufficiently cool.
The day passed most pleasantly: all was harmony and good cheer. The
hospitality which supplied the feast, enriched its flavour; and the
entertainment was highly graced by the urbanity and attentive politeness
of the doctor and his lady. On our way back to Bridge-town, in the
evening, we perceived the air to be more close and oppressive, and the
heat greater as we descended from each plain of table-land; so that the
difference we felt between breathing in the town, and in the cool breeze
of the country was very striking, and led us to felicitate the doctor on
having so advantageously exchanged physic for sugar, and the confined
streets of the town for the open hills of the country.
It was the season of the cane harvest, and Dr. Hinde, kindly seeking our
gratification, had contrived that the works should be going, in order
that we might witness the method by which the juice is separated from
the plants, and afterwards prepared into sugar. We also visited the
distilling house, and inspected the apparatus for making the rum; hence,
we had, this day, an opportunity of observing the progressive steps from
the cutting of the canes, to the converting of their fluid parts into
sugar and rum. At some more leisure moment, perhaps, I may note for you
the whole of the process.
We made our excursion in single-horse chaises, like those, with leather
tops, used in England; from which they only differ by having the
leather, at the sides and the back, made to roll up, and let down at
pleasure, for the twofold purpose of admitting the air, and excluding
the rain. We were attended by slaves as running footmen, whose duty it
was to travel as fast as we did, and to be in readiness to hold the
bridles, or stand at the horses’ heads, at any spot where we might
chance to alight, or to pause. They were equal in number to our horses,
but as we were unaccustomed both to running footmen, and to slaves, we
had strong feelings of compunction respecting these pedestrian pages;
and from seeing them run, and pant, exposed to the mid-day heat of a
tropical sun, merely for our convenience, it became so painfully
annoying to us, that we lost all sense of comfort and enjoyment: Dr.
Cleghorn and myself, therefore, stopped to desire that they would get
up, alternately, and ride behind our chaise. Two of them, only, accepted
the offer; all the others continued to walk or run throughout the
journey.
Upon our mentioning to the gentlemen of the island our uneasiness
respecting these sable attendants, they smiled at our European
_tenderness_, and assured us, that, so far from it being a fatigue or
hardship to them, they always hailed such an excursion as a holiday, and
preferred it to remaining quietly at home. We could not, for an instant,
dispute the information; but from believing that this violent exercise,
under the excessive heat, must have been fatal to ourselves, and not
being such experienced West Indians as to know how very differently it
affected the negroes, we could not regard them without strong feelings
of discomfort.
At one spot, in the course of our ride, we had our attention arrested by
observing a party of four, almost naked, females working in a cane
field. Curiosity would not allow us to pass on without devoting to them
a moment of particular regard. We, therefore, went a little off the road
to approach them nearer; when we found that they were labouring with the
hoe, to dig, or cut up the ground, preparatory to the planting of sugar;
and that a stout robust-looking man, apparently white, was following
them, holding a whip at their backs. Observing that he was the only one
of the party who was idle, we inquired why he did not partake of the
task, and were told, in reply, that it was not his business—that he had
only to keep the women at work, and to make them feel the weight of the
whip if they grew idle, or relaxed from their labour.
Impulsive nature was roused at this information, and we felt shocked and
indignant, at seeing a man, apparently strong enough to do as much work
as the whole of the four, employed in the sole occupation of brandishing
the whip over these poor degraded females. Reverting to the protection
demanded from us, by the tender sex, we forgot for a moment, all the
circumstances of the country we were in, and, indulging in a train of
European sentiments, could not refrain from rebuking the man! Reflection
whispered “_he is but on duty_;” still I confess that I must remain long
in a land of slavery, before I can witness such a scene, without feeling
a strong desire to take the whip from the fellow’s hand, and lay the
lash across his shoulders, until he shall relieve the women, by, at
least, partaking of their toil.
Notwithstanding the alarm of our Barbadoes acquaintance, Dr. Cleghorn
and myself continue our walks, by rambling about the fields, and the
paths, in the environs of Bridge-town, at an early hour of the morning:
nor do we feel more fatigue than we might experience from the same
degree of exercise in Europe. We walked lately from six till nine
o’clock, and if you had the opportunity of consulting our stately
mulatto attendant, at Mary Bella Green’s, you would learn that we
exhibited no marks of a diminished appetite at breakfast-time.
Near the sea we were protected from the great force of the sun by the
shade of trees, whose leaves and trunk very much resembled the common
pear-tree of England; but whose fruit was, in form, a correct likeness
of the apple. We knew not that it was forbidden, but had enough of
caution to avoid tasting it. However I gathered a small branch, bearing
fruit and leaves, and put it into my pocket as a specimen, from which we
might ascertain what tree it was. Soon afterwards we met a negro, and
upon our showing it to him, and asking its name, he, instantly,
exclaimed with alarm, “_Ah, Massa, dat poison—dat no good for nhyaam—dat
daamm manchineel, Massa._” Finding that I had fostered a serpent, I
directly threw away every leaf, and every apple; but I discovered that,
like other insidious foes, manchineel had quickly diffused its poison,
and I afterwards smarted for my curiosity. Either my handkerchief, or my
gloves had imbibed the offensive particles, and from having incautiously
used them, my lips and face burnt for many hours after, with all the
scorchings of cantharidistical acrimony; also from their having reached
the tongue and fauces I was thrown into a copious salivation, and my
mouth and throat were much swoln, and throbbed with fiery heat
throughout the morning.
Near the sea we saw likewise some other trees, bearing a fruit very like
grapes; but experience of the manchineel made us cautious in gathering
further specimens of tropical production. Some negroes, whom we met,
informed us that they were called sea-grapes, and were used as fruit;
upon which we ventured to gather a few of them, and found that they were
of pleasant flavour. In the course of the same walk we met with a fine
avenue of coco-nut trees, bordered with the aloe and the plantain. This
was not to be resisted. We could not forego the pleasure of exploring
the extent of this delightful shade, therefore proceeded to its utmost
depth; when we found that it led to a gentleman’s house, from which, as
we approached, the lord of the mansion came out, to bid us welcome, and
to tender us the courtesies of hospitality. We accepted the very
grateful refreshment of a fine shaddock, pulled fresh from the tree; and
the gentleman, kindly, conducted us to the plantain-ground, the
negro-yard, and different parts of the house and estate.
We had, before, seen many negro huts, some shaded by the sea-grape, some
sheltered by the broad and balmy leaf of the plantain, some protected by
the umbrageous coco-nut, and some standing amidst the open fields,
exposed to the full ardor of the sun: but all these were of a mean
order, straggling, and dispersed, and bearing no kind of resemblance to
the collective abode, constructed for the slaves of this estate.
It is common at the plantations to allot a small piece of ground, at a
short distance from the house, to the use of the negroes. This is called
the negro-yard. Here the slaves are allowed to build themselves small
huts to live in, but they are, commonly, of very coarse construction,
and are dark, close, and smoky. At the estate I now speak of, a circular
piece of ground was appropriated as the negro-yard, but instead of the
slaves being left to construct their own habitations, sixteen very neat
and uniform cabins were erected of wood, and well roofed with
shingles[4]. Placed in eight divisions they form a hollow octagon, a
free opening being left for the breeze at one end of each hut. In the
centre of the octagon is built a common kitchen, which serves for all
the sixteen families. The huts are neat, and the whole premises wear an
air of order, and of cleanliness, not common to the abode of slaves.
We contemplated this spot with much satisfaction, and were gratified in
observing the high degree of attention, which was here given to the
comfort and accommodation of the negroes; who had little cause to lament
their removal from the wild woods of an opposite shore; and could
scarcely desire to change their present lot for the high-rated freedom
of European paupers.
This happy negro-yard forms, as it were, a complete village of sixteen
families, all of whom may assemble, each evening, after the labour of
the day, to join in the merry dance, or to smoke and sing together, free
from every care. They have no thought how to provide for their infants,
or their aged parents; nor have they to seek either food, habitation, or
apparel. To each family is allotted a separate, and to all a common
home; the necessary food and clothing are issued to them; and they know
none of the anxious vexations or difficulties of the world. No fearful
concern, nor harassing incumbrance can arise to them on account of their
offspring, who, like themselves, are furnished with all that is needful;
and those who have most children find themselves most valued and
esteemed. In sickness, medical attendance is provided for them, and
whatever is required is administered without any trouble on their own
behalf. Thus are they guarded, at every avenue, against the approach of
want and solicitude. Six days labour is demanded from them in the week;
but the sabbath is given them as a day of rest and relaxation; and, from
the total absence of care, it is usually spent in unbounded mirth and
festivity.
In the course of our walks we have met with a washing party, and as you
desire to know all that occurs, whether of much or little importance, I
may tell you that, in this operation of cleaning, our linen is beaten
and rubbed, and scrubbed to pieces in a most unmerciful manner, and,
after all, without being made, even, tolerably clean.
The following is the process employed: the linen is first put into a
tub, and rubbed through some water, then it is taken out and sprinkled
with sand, previous to being pressed and beaten with a piece of wood,
upon a coarse large stone, by the side of the river; after which it is
rubbed out in the open stream. Next it is sprinkled with the fine white
sand of the shore, and spread by the sea to whiten; then it receives
another dipping in water; and, finally, is rinsed out in the wide
channel of the river. From the rough treatment it undergoes, it seldom
comes home without being torn into various rents and holes. The demand
made for this rude cleaning is _a bit_ for each piece, without any
regard to its size, or the labour required. A dozen shirts are washed
for _twelve bits_, or, according to our coin, for twelve sixpences, and
for the washing of a dozen pocket-handkerchiefs we pay the same.