pork, a clove of garlic, a bundle of thyme and parsley, pepper and salt,
cover them with water and let them stew ten or fifteen minutes, lay them
on a dish, and when cold cover them well with the crumb of stale bread
finely grated, mixed with the leaves of parsley chopped very small, some
pepper, salt and grated nutmeg; press these on the veal with a knife,
and when a little dried, turn it and do the same to the other side; put
a good quantity of lard in a pan, when it boils lay the cutlets in
carefully that the crumbs may not fall; fry them a little brown, lay
them on a strainer to drain off the grease, do the same with the crumbs
that have fallen in the pan: while this is doing, simmer the water they
were boiled in to half a pint, strain it and thicken with four ounces of
butter and a little browned flour; add a gill of wine and one of
mushroom catsup, put in the cutlets and crumbs, and stew till tender;
add forcemeat balls.
* * * * *
KNUCKLE OF VEAL.
Boil a half pint of pearl barley in salt and water till quite tender,
drain the water from it and stir in a piece of butter, put it in a deep
dish; have the knuckle nicely boiled in milk and water, and lay it on
the barley, pour some parsley and butter over it.
* * * * *
BAKED FILLET OF VEAL.
Take the bone out of the fillet, wrap the flap around and sew it, make a
forcemeat of bread crumbs, the fat of bacon, a little onion chopped,
parsley, pepper, salt, and a nutmeg pounded, wet it with the yelks of
eggs, fill the place from which the bone was taken, make holes around it
with a knife and fill them also, and lard the top; put it in a Dutch
oven with a pint of water, bake it sufficiently, thicken the gravy with
butter and brown flour, add a gill of wine and one of mushroom catsup,
and serve it garnished with forcemeat balls fried.
* * * * *
SCOTCH COLLOPS OF VEAL.
They may be made of the nice part of the rack, or cut from the fillet,
rub a little salt and pepper on them, and fry them a light brown; have a
rich gravy seasoned with wine, and any kind of catsup you choose, with a
few cloves of garlic, and some pounded mace, thicken it, put the collops
in and stew them a short time, take them out, strain the gravy over, and
garnish with bunches of parsley fried crisp, and thin slices of middling
of bacon, curled around a skewer and boiled.
* * * * *
VEAL OLIVES.
Take the bone out of the fillet and cut thin slices the size of the leg,
beat them flat, rub them with the yelk of an egg beaten, lay on each
piece a thin slice of boiled ham, sprinkle salt, pepper, grated nutmeg,
chopped parsley, and bread crumbs over all, roll them up tight, and
secure them with skewers, rub them with egg and roll them in bread
crumbs, lay them on a tin dripping pan, and set them in an oven; when
brown on one side, turn them, and when sufficiently done, lay them in a
rich highly seasoned gravy made of proper thickness, stew them till
tender, garnish with forcemeat balls and green pickles sliced.
* * * * *
RAGOUT OF A BREAST OF VEAL.
Separate the joints of the brisket, and saw off the sharp ends of the
ribs, trim it neatly, and half roast it; put it in a stew pan with a
quart of good gravy seasoned with wine, walnut and mushroom catsup, a
tea-spoonful of curry powder, and a few cloves of garlic; stew it till
tender, thicken the gravy, and garnish with sweatbreads nicely broiled.
* * * * *
FRICANDO OF VEAL.
Cut slices from the fillet an inch thick and six inches long, lard them
with slips of lean middling of bacon, bake them a light brown, stew them
in well seasoned gravy, made as thick as rich cream, serve them up hot,
and lay round the dish sorrel stewed with butter, pepper and salt, till
quite dry.
* * * * *
TO MAKE A PIE OF SWEETBREADS AND OYSTERS.
Boil the sweetbreads tender, stew the oysters, season them with pepper
and salt, and thicken with cream, butter, the yelks of eggs and flour,
put a puff paste at the bottom and around the sides of a deep dish, take
the oysters up with an egg spoon, lay them in the bottom, and cover them
with the sweetbreads, fill the dish with gravy, put a paste on the top,
and bake it. This is the most delicate pie that can be made. The
sweetbread of veal is the most delicious part, and may be broiled,
fried, or dressed in any way, and is always good.
* * * * *
MOCK TURTLE OF CALF'S HEAD.
Have the head nicely cleaned, divide the chop from the skull, take out
the brains and tongue, and boil the other parts till tender, take them
out of the water and put into it a knuckle of veal or four pounds of
lean beef, three onions chopped, thyme, parsley, a tea-spoonful of
pounded cloves, the same of mace, salt, and cayenne pepper to your
taste--boil these things together till reduced to a pint, strain it, and
add two gills of red wine, one of mushroom and one of walnut catsup,
thicken it with butter and brown flour; the head must be cut in small
pieces and stewed a few minutes in the gravy; put a paste round the edge
of a deep dish, three folds, one on the other, but none on the bottom;
pour in the meat and gravy, and bake it till the paste is done; pick all
strings from the brains, pound them, and add grated bread, pepper and
salt, make them in little cakes with the yelk of an egg, fry them a nice
brown, boil six egg's hard, leave one whole and divide the others
exactly in two, have some bits of paste nicely baked; when the head is
taken from the oven, lay the whole egg in the middle, and dispose the
others, with the brain cakes and bits of paste tastily around it. If it
be wanted as soup, do not reduce the gravy so much, and after stewing
the head, serve it in a tureen with the brain cakes and forcemeat balls
fried, in place of the eggs and paste. The tongue should be salted and
put in brine; they are very delicate, and four of them boiled and
pealed, and served with four small chickens boiled, make a handsome
dish, either cold or hot, with parsley and butter poured over them.
* * * * *
TO GRILL A CALF'S HEAD.
Clean and divide it as for the turtle, take out the brains and tongue,
boil it tender, take the eyes out whole, and cut the flesh from the
skull in small pieces; take some of the water it was boiled in for
gravy, put to it salt, cayenne pepper, a grated nutmeg, with a spoonful
of lemon pickle; stew it till it is well flavoured, take the jowl or
chop, take out the bones, and cover it with bread crumbs, chopped
parsley, pepper and salt, set it in an oven to brown, thicken the gravy
with the yelks of two eggs and a spoonful of butter rubbed into two of
flour, stew the head in it a few minutes, put it in the dish, and lay
the grilled chop on it; garnish it with brain cakes and broiled
sweetbreads.
* * * * *
TO COLLAR A CALF'S HEAD.
After cleaning it nicely, saw the bone down the middle of the skull, but
do not separate the head, take out the brains and tongue, boil it tender
enough to remove the bones, which must be taken entirely out; lay it on
a board, have a good quantity of chopped parsley seasoned with mace,
nutmeg, pepper and salt--spread a layer of this, then one of thick
slices of ham, another of parsley and one of ham, roll it up tight, sew
a cloth over it, and bind that round with tape; boil it half an hour,
and when cold press it. It must be kept covered with vinegar and water,
and is very delicious eaten with sallad or oil and vinegar.
* * * * *
CALF'S HEART, A NICE DISH.
Take the heart and liver from the harslet, and cut off the windpipe,
boil the lights very tender, and cut them in small pieces--take as much
of the water they were boiled in as will be sufficient for gravy; add to
it a large spoonful of white wine, one of lemon pickle, some grated
nutmeg, pepper and salt, with a large spoonful of butter, mixed with one
of white flour; let it boil a few minutes, and put in the minced lights,
set it by till the heart and liver are ready, cut the ventricle out of
the heart, wash it well, lard it all over with narrow slips of middling,
fill the cavity with good forcemeat, put it in a pan on the broad end,
that the stuffing may not come out; bake it a nice brown, slice the
liver an inch thick and broil it, make the mince hot, set the heart
upright in the middle of the dish, pour it around, lay the broiled liver
on, and garnish with bunches of fried parsley; it should be served up
extremely hot.
* * * * *
CALF'S FEET FRICASSEE.
Boil the feet till very tender, cut them in two and pull out the large
bones, have half a pint of good white gravy, add to it a spoonful of
white wine, one of lemon pickle, and some salt, with a tea-spoonful of
curry powder, stew the feet in it fifteen minutes, and thicken it with
the yelks of two eggs, a gill of milk, a large spoonful of butter, and
two of white flour, let the thickening be very smooth, shake the stew
pan over the fire a few minutes, but do not let it boil lest the eggs
and milk should curdle.
* * * * *
TO FRY CALF'S FEET.
Prepare them as for the fricassee, dredge them well with flour and fry
them a light brown, pour parsley and butter over, and garnish with fried
parsley.
* * * * *
TO PREPARE RENNET.
Take the stomach from the calf as soon as it is killed--do not wash it,
but hang it in a dry cool place for four or five days; then turn it
inside out, slip off all the curd nicely with the hand, fill it with a
little saltpetre mixed with the quantity of salt necessary, and lay it
in a small stone pot, pour over it a small tea-spoonful of vinegar, and
sprinkle a handful of salt over it, cover it closely and keep it for
use. You must not wash it--that would weaken the gastric juice, and
injure the rennet. After it has been salted six or eight weeks, cut off
a piece four or five inches long, put it in a large mustard bottle, or
any vessel that will hold about a pint and a half; put on it five gills
of cold water, and two gills of rose brandy--stop it very close, and
shake it when you are going to use it: a table-spoonful of this is
sufficient for a quart of milk. It must be prepared in very cool
weather, and if well done, will keep more than a year.
* * * * *
TO HASH A CALF'S HEAD.
Boil the head till the meat is almost enough for eating; then cut it in
thin slices, take three quarters of a pint of good gravy, and add half a
pint of white wine, half a nutmeg, two anchovies, a small onion stuck
with cloves, and a little mace; boil these up in the liquor for a
quarter of an hour, then strain it and boil it up again; put in the
meat, with salt to your taste, let it stew a little, and if you choose
it, you may add some sweetbreads, and make some forcemeat balls with
veal; mix the brains with the yelks of eggs and fry them to lay for a
garish. When the head is ready to be sent in, stir in a bit of butter.
* * * * *
TO BAKE A CALF'S HEAD.
Divide the calf's head, wash it clean, and having the yelks of two eggs
well beaten, wash the outside of the head all over with them, and on
that strew raspings of bread sifted, pepper, salt, nutmeg and mace
powdered; also, the brains cut in pieces and dipped in thick butter,
then cover the head with bits of butter, pour into the pan some white
wine and water, with as much gravy, and cover it close. Let it be baked
in a quick oven, and when it is served up, pour on some strong gravy,
and garnish with slices of lemon, red beet root pickled, fried oysters
and fried bread.
* * * * *
TO STUFF AND ROAST A CALF'S LIVER.
Take a fresh calf's liver, and having made a hole in it with a large
knife run in lengthways, but not quite through, have ready a forced
meat, or stuffing made of part of the liver parboiled, fat of bacon
minced very fine, and sweet herbs powdered; add to these some grated
bread and spice finely powdered, with pepper and salt. With this
stuffing fill the hole in the liver, which must be larded with fat
bacon, and then roasted, flouring it well, and basting with butter till
it is enough. This is to be served up hot, with gravy sauce having a
little wine in it.
* * * * *
TO BROIL CALF'S LIVER.
Cut it in slices, put over it salt and pepper; broil it nicely, and pour
on some melted butter with chopped parsley after it is dished.
* * * * *
_ Directions for cleaning Calf's Head and Feet, for those who live in
the country and butcher their own meats._
As soon as the animal is killed, have the head and feet taken off, wash
them clean, sprinkle some pounded rosin all over the hairs, then dip
them in boiling water, take them instantly out, the rosin will dry
immediately, and they may be scraped clean with ease; the feet should be
soaked in water three or four days, changing it daily; this will make
them very white.
* * * * *
LAMB.
TO ROAST THE FORE-QUARTER, &c.
The fore-quarter should always be roasted and served with mint sauce in
a boat; chop the mint small and mix it with vinegar enough to make it
liquid, sweeten it with sugar.
The hind-quarter may be boiled or roasted, and requires mint sauce; it
may also be dressed in various ways.
* * * * *
BAKED LAMB.
Cut the shank bone from a hind-quarter, separate the joints of the loin,
lay it in a pan with the kidney uppermost, sprinkle some pepper and
salt, add a few cloves of garlic, a pint of water and a dozen large ripe
tomatoes with the skins taken off, bake it but do not let it be burnt,
thicken the gravy with a little butter and brown flour.
* * * * *
FRIED LAMB.
Separate the leg from the loin, cut off the shank and boil the leg;
divide the loin in chops, dredge and fry them a nice brown, lay the leg
in the middle of the dish, and put the chops around, pour over parsley
and butter, and garnish with fried parsley.
The leg cut into steaks and the loin into chops will make a fine
fricassee, or cutlets.
* * * * *
TO DRESS LAMB'S HEAD AND FEET.
Clean them very nicely, and boil them till tender, take off the flesh
from the head with the eyes, also mince the tongue and heart, which must
be boiled with the head; split the feet in two, put them with the pieces
from the head and the mince, into a pint of good gravy, seasoned with
pepper, salt, and tomato catsup, or ripe tomatoes: stew it till tender,
thicken the gravy, and lay the liver cut in slices and broiled over
it--garnish with crisp parsley and bits of curled bacon.
* * * * *
MUTTON.
The saddle should always be roasted and garnished with scraped
horse-radish. See general observations on roasting. Mutton is in the
highest perfection from August until Christmas, when it begins to
decline in goodness.
* * * * *
BOILED LEG OF MUTTON.
Cut off the shank, wrap the flank nicely round and secure it with
skewers, dredge it well with flour, and put it on the fire in a kettle
of cold water with some salt, and three or four heads of garlic, which
will give it a delicately fine flavour; skin it well, and when nearly
done, take it from the fire and keep it hot and closely covered, that
the steam may finish it; have carrots well boiled to put in the dish
under it, or turnips boiled, mashed smooth and stewed with a lump of
butter and salt, lay the mutton on, and pour over it butter melted with
some flour in it, and a cup full of capers with some of the vinegar;
shake them together over the fire till hot before you pour it on.
* * * * *
ROASTED LEG.
Prepare it as for boiling, be very careful in spitting it, cover it with
paper and follow the directions for roasting, serve it up garnished with
scraped horse-radish.
* * * * *
BAKED LEG OF MUTTON.
Take the flank off, but leave all the fat, cut out the bone, stuff the
place with a rich forcemeat, lard the top and sides with bacon, put it
in a pan with a pint of water, some chopped onion and cellery cut small,
a gill of red wine, one of mushroom catsup and a tea-spoonful of curry
powder, bake it and serve it up with the gravy, garnish with forcemeat
balls fried.
* * * * *
STEAKS OF A LEG OF MUTTON.
Cut off the flank, take out the bone, and cut it in large slices half an
inch thick, sprinkle some salt and pepper, and broil it, pour over it
nice melted butter with capers; a leg cut in the same way and dressed as
directed for veal cutlets, is very fine. It is also excellent when
salted as beef, and boiled, served up with carrots or turnips.
A shoulder of mutton is best when roasted, but may be made into cutlets
or in a harrico.
* * * * *
TO HARRICO MUTTON.
Take the nicest part of the rack, divide it into chops, with one bone in
each, beat them flat, sprinkle salt and pepper on them, and broil them
nicely; make a rich gravy out of the inferior parts, season it well with
pepper, a little spice, and any kind of catsup you choose; when
sufficiently done, strain it, and thicken it with butter and brown
flour, have some carrots and turnips cut into small dice and boiled till
tender, put them in the gravy, lay the chops in and stew them fifteen
minutes; serve them up garnished with green pickle.
* * * * *
MUTTON CHOPS.
Cut the rack as for the harrico, broil them, and when dished, pour over
them a gravy made with two large spoonsful of boiling water, one of
mushroom catsup, a small spoonful of butter and some salt, stir it till
the butter is melted, and garnish with horse-radish scraped.
* * * * *
BOILED BREAST OF MUTTON.
Separate the joints of the brisket, and saw off the sharp ends of the
ribs, dredge it with flour, and boil it; serve it up covered with
onions--see onion sauce.
* * * * *
BREAST OF MUTTON IN RAGOUT.
Prepare the breast as for boiling, brown it nicely in the oven, have a
rich gravy well seasoned and thickened with brown flour, stew the mutton
in it till sufficiently done, and garnish with forcemeat balls fried.
* * * * *
TO GRILL A BREAST OF MUTTON.
Prepare it as before, score the top, wash it over with the yelk of an
egg, sprinkle some salt, and cover it with bread crumbs, bake it, and
pour caper sauce in the dish. It may also be roasted, the skin taken off
and frothed nicely, serve it up with good gravy, and garnish with
current jelly cut in slices.
The neck of mutton is fit only for soup, the liver is very good when
broiled.
* * * * *
BOILED SHOULDER OF MUTTON.
Put it in cold water with some salt, and boil it till tender; serve it
up covered with onion sauce.
* * * * *
SHOULDER OF MUTTON WITH CELERY SAUCE.
Wash and clean ten heads of celery, cut off the green tops and take off
the outside stalks, cut the heads in thin slices, boil them tender in a
little milk, just enough for gravy, add salt, and thicken it with a
spoonful of butter and some white flour; boil the shoulder and pour the
sauce over it.
* * * * *
ROASTED LOIN OF MUTTON.
Cut the loin in four pieces, take off the skin, rub each piece with
salt, wash them with the yelk of an egg, and cover them thickly with
bread crumbs, chopped parsley, pepper and salt; wrap them up securely in
paper, put them on a bird spit, and roast them; put a little brown gravy
in the dish, and garnish with pickle.
* * * * *
PORK.
TO CURE BACON.
Hogs are in the highest perfection, from two and a half to four years
old, and make the best bacon, when they do not weigh more than one
hundred and fifty or sixty at farthest; they should be fed with corn,
six weeks at least, before they are killed, and the shorter distance
they are driven to market, the better will their flesh be. To secure
them against the possibility of spoiling, salt them before they get
cold; take out the chine or back-bone from the neck to the tail, cut the
hams, shoulders and middlings; take the ribs from the shoulders and the
leaf fat from the hams: have such tubs as are directed for beef, rub a
large table spoonful of saltpetre on the inside of each ham, for some
minutes, then rub both sides well with salt, sprinkle the bottom of the
tub with salt, lay the hams with the skin downward, and put a good deal
of salt between each layer; salt the shoulders and middlings in the same
manner, but less saltpetre is necessary; cut the jowl or chop from the
head, and rub it with salt and saltpetre. You should cut off the feet
just above the knee joint; take off the ears and nose, and lay them in a
large tub of cold water for souse. When the jowls have been in salt two
weeks, hang them up to smoke--do so with the shoulders and middlings at
the end of three weeks, and the hams at the end of four. If they remain
longer in salt they will be hard. Remember to hang the hams and
shoulders with the hocks down, to preserve the juices. Make a good smoke
every morning, and be careful not to have a blaze; the smoke-house
should stand alone, for any additional heat will spoil the meat. During
the hot weather, beginning the first of April, it should be occasionally
taken down, examined--rubbed with hickory ashes, and hung up again.
The generally received opinion that saltpetre hardens meat, is entirely
erroneous:--it tends greatly to prevent putrefaction, but will not make
it hard; neither will laying in brine five or six weeks in cold weather,
have that effect, but remaining in salt too long, will certainly draw
off the juices, and harden it. Bacon should be boiled in a large
quantity of water, and a ham is not done sufficiently, till the bone on
the under part comes off with ease. New bacon requires much longer
boiling than that which is old.
* * * * *
TO MAKE SOUSE.
Let all the pieces you intend to souse, remain covered with cold water
twelve hours; then wash them out, wipe off the blood, and put them again
in fresh water; soak them in this manner, changing the water frequently,
and keeping it in a cool place, till the blood is drawn away; scrape and
clean each piece perfectly nice, mix some meal with water, add salt to
it, and boil your souse gently, until you can run a straw into the skin
with ease. Do not put too much in the pot, for it will boil to pieces
and spoil the appearance. The best way is to boil the feet in one pot,
the ears and nose in another, and the heads in a third; these should be
boiled till you can take all the bones out; let them get cold, season
the insides with pepper, salt, and a little nutmeg; make it in a tight
roll, sew it up close in a cloth, and press it lightly. Mix some more
meal and cold water, just enough to look white; add salt, and one-fourth
of vinegar; put your souse in different pots, and keep it well covered
with this mixture, and closely stopped. It will be necessary to renew
this liquor every two or three weeks. Let your souse get quite cold
after boiling, before you put it in the liquor, and be sure to use pale
coloured vinegar, or the souse will be dark. Some cooks singe the hair
from the feet, _etcetera_, but this destroys the colour: good souse will
always be white.
* * * * *
TO ROAST A PIG.
The pig must be very fat, nicely cleaned, and not too large to lie in
the dish; chop the liver fine and mix it with crumbs of bread, chopped
onion and parsley, with pepper and salt, make it into a paste with
butter and an egg, stuff the body well with it, and sew it up, spit it,
and have a clear fire to roast it; baste with salt and water at first,
then rub it frequently with a lump of lard wrapped in a piece of clean
linen; this will make it much more crisp than basting it from the
dripping pan. When the pig is done, take off the head, separate the face
from the chop, cut both in two and take off the ears, take out the
stuffing, split the pig in two parts lengthways, lay it in the dish with
the head, ears, and feet, which have been cut off, placed on each side,
put the stuffing in a bowl with a glass of wine, and as much dripping as
will make it sufficiently liquid, put some of it under the pig, and
serve the rest in a boat.
* * * * *
TO BARBECUE SHOTE.[1]
This is the name given in the southern states to a fat young hog, which,
when the head and feet are taken off, and it is cut into four quarters,
will weigh six pounds per quarter. Take a fore-quarter, make several
incisions between the ribs, and stuff it with rich forcemeat; put it in
a pan with a pint of water, two cloves of garlic, pepper, salt, two
gills of red wine, and two of mushroom catsup, bake it, and thicken the
gravy with batter and brown flour; it must be jointed, and the ribs cut
across before it is cooked; or it cannot be carved well; lay it in the
dish with the ribs uppermost; if it be not sufficiently brown, add a
little burnt sugar to the gravy, garnish with balls.
* * * * *
TO ROAST A FORE-QUARTER OF SHOTE.
Joint it for the convenience of carving, roast it before a brisk fire;
when done, take the skin off, dredge and froth it, put a little melted
butter with some caper vinegar over it, or serve it with mint sauce.
* * * * *
TO MAKE SHOTE CUTLETS.
Take the skin from the hind-quarter, and cut it in pieces, prepare them
in the way directed for veal cutlets, make a little nice gravy with the
skin and the scraps of meat left, thicken it with butter and brown
flour, and season it in any way you like.
* * * * *
TO CORN SHOTE.
Rub a hind-quarter with saltpetre and common salt, let it lie ten days,
then boil it, and put either carrots or parsnips under it.
* * * * *
SHOTE'S HEAD.
Take out the brains, and boil the head till quite tender, cut the heart
and liver from the harslet, and boil the feet with the head; cut all the
meat from the head in small pieces, mince the tongue and chop the brains
small, take some of the water the head was boiled in, season it with
onion, parsley and thyme, all chopped fine, add any kind of
catsup--thicken it with butter and brown flour, stew the whole in it
fifteen minutes, and put it in the dish: have the heart roasted to put
in the middle, lay the broiled liver around, and garnish it with green
pickle.
* * * * *