FROM ST. JOSEPH TO FT. KEARNEY
Come now with me gentle reader, and let us cross the plains, I will
endeavor to show you whatever is worth seeing, & tell you as much as you
will care about hearing, while you are comfortably seated around your
own fireside, without fatiegue, or exposure, I will conduct you the
whole of this long & weary journey, which I wish if you should ever in
reality travel, that you may feel no more fatiegue than you do at the
presant moment, but I fear that you would, as you yourself will probably
admit before the close of this narative. This is considered th[e]
starting point[27] from this river is time reconed, & it matters not how
far you have come, this is the point to which they all refer, for the
question is never, when did you leave home? but, when did you leave the
Mississouri [sic] river? Our team looked bad one ox had died, the roads
through Missouri were muddy & bad. It was about 2 o'clock as we started
out through the heavy timbered bottom which extends back some 7 or 8
miles from the river, & which was to be the last of any note until we
reached the Siera Nevada Mts. It seems hard to believe, but it is
nevertheless true, that this immence distance is nearly destitute of
timber, particularly near the road. It comenced raining a little, we
reached the outskirts of the timber, called the bluffs, as the land
raises here, we encamped pitched our tent, soon had a large fire, got
supper, turned the cattle out to graze on the grass & bushes, for they
were vary hungry & devoured whatever came in their way, they soon filled
themselves & they were drove up & tied each one by a rope, to the
waggon, or bushes nearby. There were several campfires burning in sight,
we at length went to bed, Loyd & I occupied the waggon, while the boys
slept in the tent, I had bought rag carpet enough to spread over the
ground in the tent which proved excellent for keeping the wet, or sand,
from getting on the bedding, which consisted of buffalo robes &
blankets, which I considder the best for this journey, as they keep
cleaner & do not get damp so easily as cotton quilts.
[May 10--27th day] Stayed in camp to-day unloaded our waggon put every
thing that it was possible in sacks leaving our trunk chest, barrels &
boxes, which relieved the waggon, of at least, 300 lbs, besides it was
much more conveniently packed. Water being handy, we washed up all our
things & prepared to start soon in the morning. A boy about 12 years
old came to our tent poorly clad, he said he was going back, I asked him
several questions, & learned that he had ran away from his folks who
lived in the eastern part of Ohio, had got his passage from one
Steamboat to another, until he had reached St. Jo.[28] & then had got in
with some one to go to California, but he said they would not let him go
any further, & sent him back, I gave him something to eat & told him to
go back to his parents, I know not where he went but from his tale this
was not the first time that he had ran away from home. What a grief to
parents must such children be.
[Illustration: THREE ROUTE MAPS
ST. JOSEPH TO FT. KEARNY--FT. KEARNY TO FT. LARAMIE--FT. LARAMIE TO
SOUTH PASS]
[May 11--28th day] Fine morning, started out on the Plain which appeared
boundless, stretching away to the south & covered with excellent grass 5
or 6 inches high, but they were not near so level as I had supposed,
quite undulating like the waves of the sea when subsiding from a storm,
In 6 or 8 ms,[29] we came to where there was a general halt, some dozen
teams standing here waiting to cross a deep slue,[30] in which one team
& waggon were stuck & were obliged to unload part of their goods, it
being difficult to attatch more team to it where it then was, some
others taking the precaution doubled theirs before starting in, but
noticed that the great difficulty was in the cattle not pulling
together, we drove in just above them, passed over, went on our way
which for many miles is often in sight of the Mississouri [_sic_] river
and the highlands on the opposite bank to the cultivated fields of which
I often turned a "lingiring look" which is the last I have as yet seen,
or may see for some time, with one exception which I shall soon relate.
We met two or three indians, saw a fresh made grave, a feather bed lying
upon it, we afterwards learned that a man & his wife had both died a few
days before, & were burried together here, they left 2 small children,
which were sent back to St. Joseph by an indian chief. We now came to
Wolf creek,[31] a small stream but very steep banks, the indians have
constructed a kind of bridge over it, & charged 50 cts per waggon, there
were several of them here, quite fine looking fellows, not near so dark
as those I had seen, but of the real copper color, said they were of the
Sacs & Fox tribes.[32] One was a chief, he was dressed in real indian
stile, had his hair shaved off all except the crown lock, which was tied
up & ornamented with beads & feathers, he, & one or two others, had
various trinkits upon their arms, legs, & heads, but their main dress
was their bright red blankets, There were several teams here, which were
passing over before us, when one of the teams getting stalled on the
opposite bank, which was steep & muddy, a little pert looking indian
jumped up comenced talking & jesticulating in great earnest; on
inquiring what it was he said? an interpreter nearby said, he was saying
to the driver, that if he could not go through there he could not go to
California, he had better go back home. We passed over when our turn
came, & went a short distance up the stream, & encamped; having come
about 20 ms, fine grass here, & some small timber along the banks of
this creek, I had a severe headache this evening, our folks having got
their supper, they were soon seated around a blazing fire, & were soon
joined by several indians, who likewise seated themselves by the fire, &
as one of them could speak a little English, they kept up quite a
conversation. They said they no steal white mans cattle, they good
indian, but the Pawnee he bad indian, he steal, no good, Loyd gave them
a drink of brandy which when they had tasted, said strong, strong, but
smacked their lips as if it was not stronger than they liked. I lay in
the waggon looked out upon this group, which as the glare of the fire
fell on the grim visages, & bare, brawny arms, & naked bodies; having
nothing on the upper part of the body but their loose blanket, & as they
move their arms about when speaking, their bodies are half naked most of
the time, the contrast was striking between their wild looks & savage
dress, to the familiar faces of our own company, & their civilized dress
and speech. [May 12--29th day] I felt quite well this morning, we soon
dispatched our breakfast, yoked up our cattle which were as full as
_ticks_, started out into the broad road, or roads, for here there are
several tracks, there is plenty of room for horse, or mule teams to go
around, which will be quite different when we come to the Mountains, we
passed the indian mission,[33] where there are several hundred acers of
land cultivated by indians under the superintendince of the
missionaries. Rested our teams at noon, took a lunch, went on some 10
miles farther [sic], & encamped, where there was good grass, but very
little water & no wood, we succeeded in boiling the tea kettle, & making
some coffee, & having plenty of bread, meat, & crackers, fruit pickles,
&c, we done very well for supper, it was quite cold tonight, but slept
well till morning.
[May 13--30th day] Started out soon this morning, passed several graves,
we hear that it is sickly on the route, that there are cholera,
smallpox, & measles, but rumor says so much, that you do not know when
to believe her, but the graves prove that some have died, & it must be
expected that from such a number, some would die; but it is very sad to
part with them here, for the heart can hardly support the addition, of
so much grief, for there are few whose hearts are not already pained, by
leaving so many behind. We came to another indian toll bridge, which
crossed a small ravine, charged but 25 cts, two indians here, went on
till near night and encamped for the night, very good place, in a hollow
to the left of the road. George caught some small fish with a pinhook.
[May 14--31st day] Soon in the morning we renewed our journey, through a
fine rotting[34] prairie, small groves of timber along the water
courses, giving the landscape a very picturesque appearance; saw several
graves to day, passed where they were burying a man, crossed the little
Nimahaw,[35] a fine stream, encamped on the bank. We had not been here
long, when a little white calf came up to us out of the bushes, &
appeared very hungry; it had probably been left on purpose, though most
of them are gennerally killed, but he might have been hid in the bushes,
& people are not very tenderhearted on this journey, but he reminded me
so much of home I would not let them shoot it; we left it there to be
devoured by wolves, or die of hunger, or be killed by some one else.
[May 15--32d day] We renewed our journey, when about noon it commenced
to rain we turned down to the right, & encamped, it continuing rainy, we
staid till next day; here was a small stream full of little fishes,
which if we had had a small sceine, we might have caught any amount; but
we had not so much as a fish hook, which we had forgoten to provide.
[May 16--33d day] Crossed the Big Nimahaw,[36] nooned here, there were
so many teams here crossing that we had to wait some 2 hours, for many
would not go through, until they had doubled their team; but we crossed
with our 4 yoke of small cattle, & the largest waggon there, without any
difficulty, but a little snug pulling; George said we done it _easy_;
our team is certainly no. 1. This is a fine mill stream, some very good
timber on its banks, & as rich prairie around as I ever saw, there is no
reason why it should not be settled some day. We passed the junction of
the Indipendence road,[37] there was as many teems in sight, as on ours,
& their track looked about the same, Saw a fine sheet iron stove sitting
beside the road, took it along cooked in it that night, & then left it;
for they are of very little account, unless you could have dry wood. We
met a man who was driving several cows, the men in the other waggon
recognized 4 of them, belonging to a man from their country, with whom
they had intended to travel. They asked the man where was the owner of
the cows? & why he was driving them back? he said first that he was the
owner, & that he had bought them; but as he could not tell where the man
was, nor discribe him, they concluded he had no right to them; & finaly
he said them four he had found, & they took them away from him; & as one
of them gave milk, we were enable[d] to live quite well; & I would
advise all to take cows on this trip, if you used the milk only to make
bread, for you can do very little with yeast, & the soda & cream tarter
I do not like.
[May 17--34th day] We went on through a rich & fertile country, &
encamped some 2 ms to the left of the road, in one of the most wild and
romantic places I ever saw; the wolves howled around the tent nearly all
night, I could not sleep soundly, therefor dreamed of being attacted by
bears, & wolves; when the sharp bark of one, close to the waggon, would
rouse me from my fitful slumbers but the rest slept so soundly, that
they hardly heard them; for people sleep in general very sound, on this
trip, for being tired at night, they feel like reposing.
[May 18--35th day] Proceeded onward, crossed the Big Blue river[38]
there was a ferry here, but we forded it, although it came near running
into our waggon bed; came on some 11, ms. father [_sic_], & encamped, to
the left, down in a hollow where there was small stream; Here[39] a
doctor from the same place of those men who were travelling with us,
came up, he had started to pack through with 2 horses, but soon getting
tired of it, he had let a man have one of the horses, & provisions, to
take him through: but he said they soon wanted him to help about every
thing & he got tired of it; & offered to go through with them, & cook
for them, they concented, as one of their company had gone back which I
had forgotten to mention, for we meet some going back every day, some
have been sick, some say that they are carrying the mail; but there is
most to great a number for that purpose. [May 19--36th day] Beautiful
morning the Dr. said I could ride his horse if I liked, & having my
saddle yet, I gladly excepted it; for it is tiresome riding in the
waggon all the while, & every waggon should be provided, with at least
one good horse, for the company to ride when they are weary, or when
they wish to go out & hunt; for it is very hard to go off from the road
a hunting, & perhaps kill some game, & then have it to carry & overtake
the teams; for as slow a[s] an ox teem may seem to move, they are very
hard to catch up with, when you fall behind an hour or two. and you need
a horse also, to ride through & drive the team in all bad places, & to
get up your cattle without getting your feet wet, by wading in water or
dew; if such exposures as these were avoided, I do not think there would
be as much sickness as there usually is, along here, for we have not
passed less than 100 fresh graves from St. Joseph to the Blue river. See
some dead stalk, the wolves have a feast, hope they will not disturb the
graves. [May 20--37th day] We travel about 20 ms. a day our cattle are
thriving, look well; but this Gy[p]sy life is anything but agreeable, it
is impossible to keep anything clean, & it is with great dificulty that
you do what little you have to do. Turned down to the left; tolerable
grass only; here we saw the first buffalo sign; the wolves kept barking
all night. [May 21--38th day] Raining some, came 7 or 8 ms, the rain
still continuing, we put up for the day, down to the left, near a dry
sandy creek, here was a fresh grave; there being some timber along this
creek, we soon had a large fire, & prepared our dinner. We have not as
yet seen any game, & a fishhook would have been of more service so far,
than half a dozen guns, The weather is quite cold, need overcoats, &
mittens. [May 22--39th day] Again we get up the cattle & start on; the
land here is poor, the country flat, & grass only in places, the road is
very crooked thus far; for the track runs wherever it is nearest level.
We encamped on the Little blue,[40] which we had been following up for
the last 3 or 4 days, it is a poor place for grass. Some teams turned
back a day or two since, & one old lady said we had all better turn
back, for if the grass began to give out now, what would become of us if
we went on until our teams were not able to take us back; she said she
was going back, for she had made a living before she had ever heard of
California, & the rest might go on & starve their teams to death if they
liked. Saw the heads of [s]everal fine large fish lying here, but could
not catch any with a pin hook. [May 23--40th day] After some difficulty,
we got our cattle from the other side of the river, where they had
strayed during the night, but when we found they were across, some of
the men went over & watched them, which was the first time we had
watched them, but being now in the Pawnee country we were a little
afraid they might be stolen, but we did not see one of these indians,
some said it was because they were afraid of the smallpox. We passed a
spot where there was a board put up, & this information upon it, that a
man was found here on the 17th, horribly murdered, with wounds of a
knife, & buckshot, his shirt was lying there, with the blood & wounds
upon it, he was buried near by, it stated by whom &c. I have never
learned any more, but I hope the murderer may meet his reward, sooner or
later. [May 24--41st day] The day being clear & still, as we passed over
the 16 mile desert, to the head waters of the L. Blue[41]; we saw a
mirage, at first we thought we were near a pond of water which we saw
just over the ridge, & remarked that the guide had said there was no
water here; but when we came near, it was gone, and then suspecting what
it was, we looked around (for here you can see any distance in all
directions) we saw beautiful streams, bordered with trees, small lakes,
with islands, & once on looking back, we saw several men in the road,
who looked to be 15 ft tall, & once or twice we saw what appeared to be
large & stately buildings. Met a company of fur traders with 16 waggons
loaded with buffalo robes, they were very singular in appearence looking
like so many huge elephants, & the men, except 2, were half breeds; &
indians, & a rougher looking set, I never saw; & their teams which were
cattle, looked about used up; quite warm to day, crossed the last branch
of the Little Blue, it was dry and good crossing, we went on some 3
miles, and encamped near some small ponds of water, no wood, only what
we could find at old camping places; we had brought a little water in
our kegs, made some coffe[e], & just as we were done supper, the sun was
declining in the west, making thing[s] appear very distinctly on the
horizon, when there was an animal discovered, feeding on the plain, not
far distant. 2 of our men went in persuit, and after some time, returned
with a quarter of fresh meat, which they said was antelope; but asking
them why they did not bring more, & they making rather a vague reply,
and not being anyways anxious to have any of it cooked, & from certain
sly looks which they exchanged, I began to think something was wrong
about it, at length one went out in the morning [May 25--42nd day] and
found it to be an old sheep left from some drove, which was probably
unable to travel, but the sport was that they thinking it was an
antelope, and it being so dark that they could not see distinctly, &
knowing that they were hard to get a shot at, they crept on their hands
& knees for some distance, both fired at the same time, & shot the poor
sheep through & through; but to turn the joke, they brought up a piece,
to have the Dr. _& me_[42] cook some of it, but failed. This made us
something to joke & laugh about for some time, for it is seldom that you
meet with anything for merriment, on this journey. We reached the Platte
river,[43] after a hard days drive, although the sand hills which were
in sight, soon after we started in the morning; did not seem to be, but
2 or 3 ms. distant. Saw several antelope but could not get a shot at
them it being so level, There is no wood here, except what is procured
from the island, the river was not fordable at this time, but some swam
accross on horseback & procured some; but with much difficulty and
danger, the current being very swift, & the bottom quicksand; we
contented ourselves with a few willow bushes; there were some buffalo
chips, but we had not as yet got in the way of using them. [May 26--43d
day] We are about 5, ms below Ft. Karney.[44] Several indians of the
Sioux tribe came to our tent, the best looking indians I ever saw, they
were tall, strongly made, firm features, light copper color, cleanly in
appearance, quite well dressed in red blankets, and highly ornamented,
with bows and arrows in their hands. We gave them some crackers &
coffee, with which they seemed very much pleased. They signified that
they wished to trade, & pointing of to the right, we saw, many more
indians seated on the ground not far distant, with some 20 ponies
feeding around them, as we started out there, we saw a train of waggons
which were passing, halt, & appear to be perplexed, we soon saw the
cause, a huge indian, naked to his waist, with a drawn sword,
brandishing it in the road, & seemed to say, "stand & deliver." But when
we came up, he signified that he wished to trade, but they wishing to
proceed, & not wanting to be detained, they gave him some crackers &c,
each waggon as they passed, throwing him something on a blanket, which
he had spread on the ground beside the road; but I saw the indians
chuckle to one another, upon the success of the old chiefs maneuver.
This old chief accompanied us to the rest of the indians, & he gave the
doctor a buffalo robe for his vest, which he immediately put on,
buttoned it up, and appeared much pleased with his bargain; but not
better than the doctor did with his. We also got a very fine robe, for
a bridle & mantingals [_sic_], which were not very new. We struck our
tent, moved on up to the fort; there are 2 or 3 good frame building
here, saw some children playing in the porch of one of them, suppose
there are some families here but the barracks & magazines are mostly
built of turf; the place is not inclosed, & presents no striking
appearance, but we liked to look at a house as it had been some time
since we had seen one, and would be some time before we should see
another. They kept a register here, of the number of waggons which
passed, there had then passed 2657, & as many waggons pass without
touching here, I do not think they can keep a correct account, & I do
not think they try to get the number of those that pass on the north
side of the river, for it would be difficult to do. Opposite the town, &
extending up & down the river for 16 or 18 ms, is an island,[45] it is
covered with a fine growth of cottonwood timber, I was struck with its
appearance with the mirage which I had seen on the plain, & believe it
the same reflected by the atmosphere.
FOOTNOTES:
[27] St. Joseph, Mo.
[28] St. Joseph, Mo.
[29] Abbreviation used throughout for "miles."
[30] A variant of "slough."
[31] Wolf Creek, a tributary of the Missouri, rises in Brown Co. and
runs through Doniphan Co., Kan.
[32] Sauk and Fox, from this northeastern section of Kansas.
[33] This seems to refer to the Presbyterian mission among the Iowas and
the Sauk and Fox, established in 1837, near the present town of
Highland, Doniphan Co., Kan.
[34] So in the original and evidently an error for "rolling" or
undulating.
[35] The Little Nemaha R., in the southeastern corner of Nebraska, and
empties into the Missouri seven miles below Brownsville.
[36] Nemaha or Big Nemaha R., in the southeastern part of Nebraska,
emptying into the Missouri two miles below Rulo.
[37] This is a mistake, did not pass it till 2 days
afterwards.--_Original note._
[38] The Big Blue R., an affluent of the Kansas R., rising in Nebraska
and running nearly southward into Kansas.
[39] This it a mistake--did not join us till 3 days after
this.--_Original note._ This doctor's name is nowhere given in her
journal.
[40] The Little Blue R. rises in the southern part of Nebraska, runs
through Jefferson Co., thence into the State of Kansas, and empties into
the Big Blue R. in Marshall Co., of that state.
[41] Little Blue R.
[42] These words are partly erased in the original manuscript.
[43] The Platte or Nebraska R., and well-known affluent of the Missouri
R. Her description is similar to Fremont's, in his first exploration of
ten years earlier.--Fremont. _Report._ Washington, 1845, p. 16.
[44] Fort Kearny, Nebraska, named after Col. Stephen W. Kearny who, in
1845, conducted the first military expedition through the West, from
Fort Leavenworth, Kansas, to the South Pass of the Rocky Mountains. It
was at first named Fort Childs, in honor of Gen. Thomas Childs, of the
Mexican War. The post was abandoned permanently in 1871.
[45] Judging from the length of miles, the reference seems to be to the
group of islands of which Long Island, opposite Kearney, Neb., is the
largest.