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ACROSS THE PLAINS TO CALIFORNIA IN 1852
JOURNAL OF MRS. LODISA FRIZZELL
EDITED FROM THE ORIGINAL MANUSCRIPT IN THE NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY
BY VICTOR HUGO PALTSITS
KEEPER OF MANUSCRIPTS
[Illustration: Logo]
THE NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY
1915
REPRINTED MAY 1915
FROM THE BULLETIN OF THE NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY
OF APRIL 1915
[Illustration: _Indians._
FROM A WATER-COLOR BY MRS. FRIZZELL, AUTHOR OF THE ACCOMPANYING
NARRATIVE]
* * * * *
ACROSS THE PLAINS TO CALIFORNIA IN 1852
FROM THE LITTLE WABASH RIVER IN ILLINOIS TO THE PACIFIC SPRINGS OF
WYOMING
JOURNAL OF MRS. LODISA FRIZZELL
EDITED FROM THE ORIGINAL MANUSCRIPT IN THE NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY
BY VICTOR HUGO PALTSITS, KEEPER OF MANUSCRIPTS
EDITOR'S NOTE
This simple narrative journal was written at Canyon Creek in the Sierra
Nevada Mountains of California, in the middle of December, 1852, by Mrs.
Lodisa Frizzell, who, with her husband, Lloyd Frizzell, and their four
sons, set out on April 14th, of that year, from their unnamed home, not
far from Ewington, Effingham County, Illinois, on the upper reaches of
the Little Wabash River, on an overland journey to California. The
journal records her observations and experiences from the Little Wabash,
across Illinois and Missouri, to St. Louis and St. Joseph, and over the
St. Joseph and Oregon Trails to the Pacific Springs, in Fremont County,
Wyoming. Here, at the continental divide and at the halfway point of her
journey, the journal ends, on June 26th, or the seventy-fourth day out.
It was nearly seven months later, in her snowbound quarters of the
Sierra Nevadas, that she busied herself with its composition from notes
she had kept by the way, enlivened by her memory.
Mrs. Frizzell's journal was secured by The New York Public Library with
the manuscripts of the Ford Collection, presented by the late J.
Pierpont Morgan. It has a quaint manuscript title-page, as follows:
_Narative of a Journal [sic] across the "Plains" in 1852 by Mrs. Lodisa
Frizzell. Illustrated by several original drawings. And to my relatives,
and friends, respectfully subscribed._ A later hand has written over the
title the words, "The Overland Route to California." Among the numerous
amateurish illustrations drawn by lead pencil and tinted with colors,
three are reproduced here; also her three route maps. The other
illustrations include the following: "The home I left behind me" (Her
home in Illinois); "Crossing the Nimehaw"; "Killing a buffalo";
"Independence Rock"; "A view of Devil's Gate"; "Distant view of
Courthouse & Chimney rocks"; "Chimney Rock 5 miles distant"; "Distant
view of Laramie Peak"; "A view of Sweetwater mountains. 5 miles west of
the Devil's Gate"; "Buffalo skeletons"; "View of the Wind range of
mountains"; "View of South Pass"; "A Horned Frog."
Written on inner covers or flyleaves are several names, which may be of
value for future identification. They are: John G. Harness, 1852; Nancy
Varnyan; G. W. Catron; Wm. Malone; Orin Anderson and T. Alexander.
Nothing has been discovered of the personal history of this Frizzell
family. The patronymic, however, is found at an early period in New
England.
In 1859, Lieutenant Gouverneur K. Warren, of the corps of topographical
engineers, U. S. A., issued a _Memoir_ and map of the exploring
expeditions in the West, from 1800 to 1857, and an epitome thereof forms
a part of volume 1 of Wheeler's _Report_, appendix F, of the United
States Geographical Surveys west of the one hundredth meridian
(Washington, 1889). Among the narratives of those who, in the main,
travelled the route covered by Mrs. Frizzell, the earliest is the
journal of Robert Stuart, 1812, of which The New York Public Library has
a complete typewritten transcript, made from the original manuscript in
1908. This journey was begun in June, 1812, at Astoria, and ended at the
Ohio. It was undertaken by representatives of the Pacific Fur Company.
The next important expedition to the Rocky Mountains was made by Captain
B. L. E. Bonneville, 1832-1836, of which we have the record in
Washington Irving's _The Rocky Mountains_, first published in 1837, in
two volumes. In 1835, Colonel, afterwards General Henry Dodge, covered a
part of the way en route from Fort Leavenworth, Kansas. In 1842, J. C.
Fremont traversed the Plains on his first expedition, ending in the Wind
River Mountains, and in 1843-1844, he went over much of the same ground.
Joel Palmer's journal of his travels over the Rocky Mountains, in
1845-1846, was printed in 1852, and has been edited as a part of
Thwaites's _Early Western Travels_. Among the California pioneers, who
went over the route in the mad rush of 1849, was Amasa Delano, who wrote
an illuminating journal, published as _Life on the Plains_, in 1854.
These and many other publications have been consulted in editing the
Frizzell journal.
THE JOURNAL
PREFACE
Agreeable to my promise I now set down to write the incidents of my
journey to Callifornia. Having taken notes by the way, I shall be able
by the assistance of my memory, to give you a full & accurate account of
the "trip." It is now about the middle of December,[1] I am here in
midst of the Sierra Nevada rightly named snowy mountains, the snow has
been constantly falling for the last ten days & still it has not abated;
it is now some ten or twelve feet in this place (Canyan Creek[2]) & on
the mountain tops, fifty or more, there is no passing or repassing at
present, I am shut up in my room, the snow having completely blocked up
both doors and windows, I therefore have lighted my candles & sat down
to amuse myself & "while the tideous hours away" by giving you my
narative.
FOOTNOTES:
[1] December, 1852.
[2] Canyon Creek, a north branch of Trinity R., in Trinity Co., Cal.
CHAPTER I
FROM THE WABASH RIVER[3] TO ST. LOUIS
We (that is George Westall Bethel Elliot, my husband[4] & myself)
started for California on the 14th day of April, with five yoke of
cattle one pony & sidesaddle, & accompanied by several of our friends &
neighbors as far as the first town, where we parted & said our last
_good by_, & turning westward which was to be our course for most of the
way of our long journey.
The first night we put up at widdow womans, we did not camp out, all
though we had intended to commence camping from the start, but it goes
so much "agin the grane" at first, & then there is so many fine people
passing & repassing along the road, while you are eating your meal on a
log, or stump, or the end board of your waggon, with your tin plates tin
cups &c. For my part I felt _kinder streaked_[5] at first, especially
while we traveled in the states. As I said we did not camp out the first
night & having plenty of victuals with us went in made some tea, fried
some eggs, eat our suppers, & were accomodated with a fine bed, which is
a great luxury after a hard days travel; but my thoughts and reflections
were such that I could not readily fall asleep. Who is there that does
not recollect their first night when started on a long journey, the
wellknown voices of our friends still ring in our ears, the parting kiss
feels still warm uppon our lips, & that last seperating word _Farewell!_
sinks deeply into the heart. It may be the last we may ever hear from
some or all of them, & to those who start for California there can be no
more solemn scene of parting only at death; for how many are now
sleeping in death on the lonely plains whose Farewell was indeed their
last.
[April 15--2d day] But to return, we started in the morning of our
seckond day, a fine clear sky, but the roads rather muddy. Loyd[6]
killed ten plovers with 2 shots of his double barrel shotgun, which we
dressed, & had a fine supper, which we cooked by a log in the wood where
we camped for the night, about half a mile west of Ewington.[7] We
obtained lodging nearby, slept soundly started in the morning [April
16--3d day] after preparing our hasty meal; it soon commenced raining I
kept in the waggon, we killed 2 ducks & some plovers, bought some
butter, & at night having come about 21 miles we encamped had a fine
supper, the proprietor of the place came down & spent the evening with
us around our large fire, we went up to the house with him stayed 'till
morning, yoked up our team started on our journey [April 17--4th day],
killed 2 squirrels & some quails, 3 horse teams passed us to-day for
California, we put up to-night 3 miles east of Greenville.[8]
[April 18--5th day] To day Sunday passed through the beautiful town of
Greenville which approached from the east has a very picturesque
appearance from the hill which overlooks the town & surrounding country,
Crossed Lookingglass Prairie[9] which is the most beautiful & fertile
prairie I ever saw, but being so large it is but thinly settled,
encamped on the west side of it, at a house, it being to late to reach
the timber that night.
[April 19--6th day] Killed 3 squirrels traveled 22 miles encamped in a
wood, slept in the waggon for the first time, passed through a small
town this morning [April 20--7th day] as we proceeded on our journey, &
about 10 o'clock we came to the pleasant town of C----ville,[10] from
there we had the pleasure of traveling on a fine plank road, we soon
came in sight of the tall spires of the city of St. Louis,[11] & there
were other signs that we were approaching a great metropolis, there were
gentlemen on the ponds[12] fishing some gunning, & several little boys
along the roadside with spear in hand, a sack thrown over their shoulder
& with deliberate aim picked up every frog that dared to put their heads
above the water. they were not doing this for sport or prehaps [sic] the
frogs might have reproved them, but for proffit, I asked one little
fellow what he got for his frogs? he said 3 bits[13] a dozzen. About the
middle of the day we arived on the bank of the Mississippi opposite St.
Louis, encamped in sight of several waggons which we knew from
appearences were for the same destination as ourselves, the horse teems
which had passed us some days before soon came up, some of their party
had been through before, & we intended to travel with them seeing that
we could go as far in a day as they did, but circumstances prevented as
you will soon see. The men all went over to the city, & returned in the
evening with an account of the vast number of Californians (as we were
called here) who were there outfiting & shipping &c.
[April 21--8th day] This morning we went down to the Ferry crossed over,
& with much difficulty forced our way through the narrow streets which
were crowded with drays, & the loose stalk which was being driven down
to the ferry boat, but we made our way up to the place where we were to
get our outfit, it was nearly opposite the postoffice, fortunately there
was a pile of bricks lying on the side of the road which protected our
team or I think they must have been run over. I choose to set in the
waggon while they were trading; & never before did I see such bustle, &
hear such a din as I did in those two hours, or ever see such a drama
pass before me, for being in the immediate vicinity of the postoffice
there were constantly passing in & out, a mixed multitude of all ages
sex & condition, I amused myself by noticing them as they passed while I
was unobserved in our huge covered waggon. Many of them as they came out
with a letter would immediately break the seal and commence reading,
although this subjected them to be run against by every passer by, but
they did not seem to heed it, and when to much annoyed they would lean
against the palings or set down in some sheltered spot. There was the
man of business, whom you could distinguish by his brisk walk, important
airs, fine dress & appearence, he would merely glance at the signature,
put it in his pocket, & hurry back to his shop, but I noticed one old
man as he broke open his letter & was reading it, appeared dejected; he
would stop, and his mind would seem abstracted, for he heeded nothing
which passed arround him, it know [no] doubt contained unwelcome news. I
thought it might have been the conduct of some profligate son, or
perhaps of some disaster which affected his pecuniary condition. I also
noticed a woman reading a letter as she walked along leading a small
child, she appeared to be about 40 years of age, rather poorly clad;
when she broke the seal she appeared aggitated, but she had not read far
before she smiled & tears of joy ran down her cheeks, I could not
mistake the mother or wife was there; & I conjectured with some
probability that it was favorable news from a husband or son in
California. But I will not attempt to discribe all I saw, but I must say
that the noise & bustle of those two hours was enough to give one the
headache it exceeded that of the levy of New-Orleans.
[Illustration: _Distant view of St. Louis._]
FOOTNOTES:
[3] Little Wabash River of Illinois.
[4] Her husband was Lloyd Frizzell.
[5] An Americanism with various meanings,--"ashamed," "disconcerted,"
etc.
[6] Her husband.
[7] Ewington, Effingham Co., Ill., twenty-nine miles northeast of
Vandalia, on the west bank of the Little Wabash River. It was formerly
the county seat and derived its name from Gen. W. L. D. Ewing, a
prominent lawyer of Vandalia.
[8] Greenville, Bond Co., Ill., the county seat, situate on the East
Fork of Big Shoal Creek.
[9] Looking Glass Prairie, a large, fine and undulating prairie, situate
between Silver and Sugar Creeks, on the eastern border of St. Clair Co.,
Ill.
[10] Collinsville, Madison Co., Ill.
[11] They were near East St. Louis.
[12] Indian Lake may be meant.
[13] A colloquialism usually denoting a shilling, valued at twelve and a
half cents. A long bit is fifteen cents and a short bit is ten cents.