CHAPTER X.

VISITS TO CONTINENTAL PRISONS.

Contrary to the general practice of mankind in matters of pure

benevolence, Mrs. Fry looked around for new worlds to conquer, in the

shape of yet unfathomed prison miseries. Many, if not most people, would

have rested upon the laurels already won, and have been contented with

the measures of good already achieved. Not so with the philanthropist

whose work we sketch. Like an ever-widening stream, her life rolled on,

full of acts of mercy, growing wider and broader in its channel of

operations and its schemes of mercy. In pursuance of these schemes she

visited prisons at Nottingham, Lincoln, Wakefield, Leeds, Doncaster,

Sheffield, York, Durham, Newcastle, Carlisle, Lancaster, Liverpool, and

most other towns of any size in England. She extended these journeys, at

different times, into Scotland and Ireland, examining into the condition

of prisons and prisoners with the deepest interest. It was her usual

custom to form ladies' prison-visiting societies, wherever practicable,

and to communicate to the authorities subsequently her views and

suggestions in letters, dealing with these matters in detail.

But her fame was not confined within the limits of the British Isles.

Communications reached her from St. Petersburg, from Hamburg, from

Brussels, from Baden, from Paris, Berlin, and Potsdam; all tending to

show that enquiry was abroad, that nations and governments as well as

individuals were waking up to a sense of their responsibilities. Both

rulers and legislators were beginning to see that _preventing_ crime was

wiser than _punishing_ it, that the reformation of the criminal classes

was the great end of punitive measures. This conviction reached, it was

comparatively easy for the philanthropists to work.

Before proceeding to the Continent, however, we find notes of one or two

very interesting visits to the Channel Isles. Her first visit was made

in 1833, and, to her surprise, she found that the islands had most

thoroughly ignored the prison teachings and improvements which had been

gaining so much ground in the United Kingdom. The reason of this was not

far to seek. Acts of Parliament passed in England had no power in the

Channel Isles; as part of the old Duchy of Normandy, they were governed

by their own laws and customs. The inhabitants, in their appearance,

manners, language, and usages, resemble the French more than they do the

English. Nothing deterred, however, Mrs. Fry made a tour of inspection,

and then according to her custom sent the result of her inquiries, and

the conclusions at which she had arrived, in the form of a letter to the

authorities. That letter is far too long for reproduction _in extenso_,

but a few of its leading recommendations were:--

1st. A full sufficiency of employment, proportioned to the age,

sex, health and ability of each prisoner.

2d. A proper system of classification, including the separation of

men from women, of tried from untried prisoners, and of debtors

from criminals.

3d. A fixed and suitable dietary for criminals, together with an

absolute prohibition of intoxicating drinks.

4th. A suitable prison dress with distinctive badges.

5th. A complete code of regulations binding on all officials.

6th. The appointment of a visiting committee to inspect the prison

regularly and frequently.

7th. Provision to be made for the instruction of criminals in the

common branches of education, and for the performance of divine

service at stated seasons by an appointed chaplain.

After adverting to the fact that the island was independent of British

control, she alluded to "the progressive wisdom of the age" in respect

to prison discipline and management, and urged the authorities to be

abreast of the times in adopting palliative measures. The whole penal

system of the islands required to be renewed, and it promised to be a

work of time before this could be effected. We find that Mrs. Fry

exerted herself for many years to this end; but it was not until after

the lapse of years, and after two visits to the islands, that she

succeeded.

The hospital at Jersey seemed to be a curious sort of institution

designed to shelter destitute sick and poor, as well as to secure the

persons of small offenders, and lunatics. Punishment with fetters was

inflicted in this place upon all those who tried to escape, so that it

was a sort of prison. Mrs. Fry's quick eye detected many abuses in its

management, and her pen suggested remedies for them.

At Guernsey, the same irregularities and abuses appeared, and were

attacked in her characteristic manner. In both these islands, as well as

in Sark, she inaugurated works of charity and religion, thus sowing

imperishable seed destined to bear untold fruit. Finally, after more

visits from herself, and special inspectors appointed by Government, a

new house of correction was built in Jersey, while other improvements

necessary to the working out of her prison system were, one by one,

adopted.

In January, 1838, she paid her first visit to France, being accompanied

on this journey by her husband, by Josiah Forster, and by Lydia Irving,

members of the Society of Friends. True to her instinct, she found her

way speedily into the prisons of the French capital, examining,

criticising, recommending and teaching. She could not speak much French,

but some kind friend always interpreted her observations. From her

journal it seems that solemn prayer for Divine guidance and blessing

occupied the forenoon of the first day in Paris; after that, visits of

ceremony were paid to the English Ambassador, and of friendship to other

persons. Among the prisons visited were the St. Lazare Prison for women,

containing 952 inmates, La Force Prison for men, the Central Prison at

Poissy, and that of the Conciergerie. The first-named, that of St.

Lazare, was visited several times, and portions of Scripture read, as at

Newgate. The listeners were very much affected, manifesting their

feelings by frequent exclamations and tears. Lady Granville, Lady

Georgina Fullerton, and some other ladies accompanied Mrs. Fry to this

prison on one visit, when all agreed that much good would result from

the appointment and work of a Ladies' Committee. Hospitals, schools, and

convents also came in for a share of attention; and after discussing

points of interest connected with the prisons with the Prefect of

Police, she concluded by obtaining audience of the King, Queen and

Duchess of Orleans.

On the journey homeward the party visited the prisons of Caen, Rouen and

Beaulieu, distributing copies of the Scriptures to the prisoners. She

notices with much delight the united feeling in respect of benevolent

objects which existed between Roman Catholics and herself. Her own words

are "a hidden power of good at work amongst them; many very

extraordinary Christian characters, bright, sober, zealous Roman

Catholics and Protestants."

In the commencement of 1839, the low state of the funds of the different

benevolent societies formed in connection with her prison labors,

exercised her faith. None ever carried into practice more fully the old

monkish maxim _Labor est orare_. Refuges had been formed, at Chelsea for

girls, and at Clapham for women, while the Ladies' Society and the

convict-ships demanded funds incessantly. A fancy sale was held in

Crosby Hall, "conducted in a sober, quiet manner," which realized over a

thousand pounds for these charities. After recording the fact with

thankfulness, Mrs. Fry paid her second visit to the Continent, going as

far as Switzerland on her errand of mercy.

At Paris she was received affectionately by those friends who had

listened to her voice on her previous visit. Baron de Girando and other

philanthropists gathered around her, oblivious of the distinctions of

creeds and churches, and bent only on accomplishing a successful crusade

against vice and misery.

Among the hospitals inspected by her were the hospital of St. Louis for

the plague, leprosy, and other infectious disorders; the Hospice de la

Maternité, and the Hospice des Enfans Trovés. This latter was founded by

St. Vincent de Paul for the bringing up of foundlings, but had fallen

into a state of pitiable neglect. From the unnatural treatment which

these poor waifs received, the mortality had reached a frightful pitch.

It seemed, from Mrs. Fry's statements, that the little creatures were

bound up for hours together, being only released from their "swaddlings"

once in every twelve hours for any and every purpose. The sound in the

wards could only be compared to the faint and pitiful bleating of lambs.

A lady who frequently visited the institution said that she never

remembered examining the array of clean white cots that lined the walls

without finding at least one dead babe. "In front of the fire was a

sloping stage, on which was a mattress, and a row of these little

creatures placed on it to warm and await their turn to be fed from the

spoon by a nurse. After much persuasion, one that was crying piteously

was released from its swaddling bands; it stretched its little limbs,

and ceased its wailings." Supposing these children of misfortune

survived the first few weeks of such a life they were sent into the

country to be reared by different peasants; but there again a large

percentage died from infantile diseases. Mrs. Fry succeeded in securing

some ameliorations of the treatment of the babes; but sisters, doctors,

superior, and all, seemed bound by the iron bands of custom and

tradition.

The Archbishop of Paris was somewhat annoyed at her proceedings and

expressed his displeasure; it seemed more, however, to be directed

against her practice of distributing the Scriptures, than really against

her prison work.

At Nismes, under the escort of five armed soldiers, because of the known

violence of the desperadoes whom she visited, she inspected the Maison

Centrale, containing about 1,200 prisoners. She interceded for some of

them that they might be released from their fetters, undertaking at the

same time that the released prisoners should behave well. At a

subsequent visit, after holding a religious service among these felons,

the same men thanked her with tears of gratitude.

Much to her delight, she discovered a body of religionists who held

principles similar to those of the Society of Friends. They were

descendants of the Camisards, a sect of Protestants who took refuge in

the mountains of the Cevennes during the persecution which followed the

revocation of the Edict of Nantes, and were descended originally from

the Albigenses. Their three most distinguished pastors were Claude

Brousson, who took part in the sufferings at the general persecution of

the Protestants; Jean Cavalier, the soldier-pastor who led his flock to

battle, and who now sleeps in an English graveyard; and Antoine Court,

who formed this "church in the desert," into a more compact body. The

first of these pastors was hanged for "heresy" at Montpellier, in 1698;

but he, together with his successors, labored so devoutly and so

ardently, that the persecuted remnant rose from the dust and proved

themselves valiant for the truth as they had received and believed it.

It was not possible that the seed of a people which had learnt the

sermons preached to them off by heart, and written the texts on stone

tablets, in order to pass them from one mountain village to another,

could ever die out. The descendants of those martyrs had come down

through long generations, to nourish at last openly in Nismes. Mrs. Fry

recognized in them the kindred souls of faithful believers. After this,

the party spent a fortnight at a little retired village called

Congenies, where they welcomed many others of their own creed. A house

with "vaulted rooms, whitewashed and floored with stone," sheltered them

during this quaint sojourn, while the villagers vied with each other in

contributing to their comforts.

At Toulon they visited the "Bagnes," or prison for the galley slaves.

These poor wretches fared horribly, while the loss of life among them

was terrible. They worked very hard, slept on boards, and were fed upon

bread and dry beans. At night they were ranged in a long gallery, and in

number from one hundred to two hundred, were all chained to the iron rod

which ran the entire length of the gallery. By day they worked chained

together in couples.

At Marseilles a new kind of prison was inspected by her; this was a

conventual institution and refuge for female penitents, under the

control of the nuns of the order of St. Charles, who to the three

ordinary vows of poverty, chastity, and obedience, added that of

converting souls. Superintending ladies in the city, who bore the title

of "directresses," were not even permitted to see the women immured

there; indeed, only one was permitted to enter the building in order to

look after the necessary repairs, and even she was strictly restrained

from seeing a penitent or sister. It seemed hopeless in the face of

these facts to expect admission, but Mrs. Fry's name and errand

prevailed. Accompanied by one of these nominal directresses, she was

admitted and shown into a large, plainly-furnished parlor. After she had

waited some little time, the Lady Superior presented herself at the

grating, and prepared to hear the communications of her visitors. In the

course of the conversation which passed, it appeared that there were

over one hundred penitents in the convent, who mostly became servants

after their reclamation. It seemed that they "were not taught to read or

write, neither was the least morsel of pencil, paper, pen, ink, or any

other possible material for writing permitted, from the fear of their

communicating with people without." The Superior admitted that portions

of the Bible were suitable to the inmates, such as the Parables and

Psalms, but said that as a whole the Scriptures were not fit to be put

into the hands of people in general. Mrs. Fry departed from this "home

of mystery and darkness," very unsatisfied and sad. She next visited a

boys' prison, conducted by the Abbé Fisceaux, which excited her

admiration.

At the "Maison Pénitentiaire" at Geneva, the arrangements appeared to be

as complete as possible, and most praiseworthy. The treatment varied in

severity, according to the guilt of the criminals, who were divided into

four classes. They were in all cases there for long terms of

imprisonment, but were allowed either Catholic or Protestant versions of

the Scriptures, according to their faith. After paying short visits to

Lausanne, Berne, and Zurich, the party returned home.

As her life passed on and infirmities grew apace, it seemed that Mrs.

Fry's zeal and charity grew also, for she planned and schemed to do good

with never-flagging delight. Early in 1840, she departed again for the

Continent, accompanied this time by her brother, Samuel Gurney, and his

daughter, by William Allen and Lucy Bradshaw. During this journey and a

subsequent one, she had much intercourse with royal and noble

personages. At Brussels they had a pleasant audience of the King, who

held an interesting conversation with them on the state of Belgian

prisons. A large prison for boys at Antwerp specially drew forth their

commendations; it seemed admirably arranged and conducted, while every

provision was made for the instruction and improvement of the lads. At

Hameln, in Hanover, they found one of the opposite class, a men's

prison, containing about four hundred inmates, but all heavily chained

"to the ground, until they would confess their crimes, whether they had

committed them or not." One wonders if this treatment still prevails in

the Hameln of Robert Browning's ballad. At Hanover they waited on the

Queen by special command, and during a long interview many interesting

and important subjects were brought forward.

At Berlin they were received by royalty in the most cordial way. Mrs.

Fry's niece, in a letter, gives a vivid account of the assembly at the

royal palace specially invited to meet the Quakeress and her party.

The Princess William has been very desirous to give her sanction,

as far as possible, to the Ladies' Committee for visiting the

prison, that my aunt had been forming; and, to show her full

approbation, had invited the Committee to meet her at her palace.

So imagine about twenty ladies assembling here, at our hotel, at

half-past twelve o'clock to-day, beautifully dressed; and, further

fancy us all driving off and arriving at the palace. The Princess

had also asked some of her friends, so we must have numbered about

forty. Such a party of ladies, and only our friend Count Gröben to

interpret. The Princess received us most kindly, and conducted us

herself to the top of the room; we talked some time, whilst

awaiting the arrival of other members of the royal family. The

ladies walked about the suite of rooms for about half an hour,

taking chocolate, and waiting for the Crown Princess, who soon

arrived. The Princess Charles was also there, and the Crown Prince

himself soon afterwards entered. I could not but long for a

painter's eye to have carried away the scene. All of us seated in

that beautiful room, our aunt in the middle of the sofa, the Crown

Prince and Princess and the Princess Charles on her right; the

Princess William, the Princess Marie, and the Princess Czartoryski

on the left; Count Gröben sitting near her to interpret, the

Countesses Böhlem and Dernath by her. I was sitting by the Countess

Schlieffen, a delightful person, who is much interested in all our

proceedings. A table was placed before our aunt, with pens, ink,

and paper, like other committees, with the various rules our aunt

and I had drawn up, and the Countess Böhlem had translated into

German, and which she read to the assembly. After that my aunt gave

a concise account of the societies in England, commencing every

fresh sentence with "If the Prince and Princesses will permit."

When business was over, my aunt mentioned some texts, which she

asked leave to read. A German Bible was handed to Count Gröben, the

text in Isaiah having been pointed out that our good aunt had

wished for, "Is not this the fast that I have chosen," etc. The

Count read it, after which our aunt said, "Will the Prince and

Princesses allow a short time for prayer?" They all bowed assent

and stood, while she knelt down and offered one of her touching,

heart-felt prayers for them--that a blessing might rest on the

whole place, from the King on his throne to the poor prisoner in

the dungeon; and she prayed especially for the royal family; then

for the ladies, that the works of their hands might be prospered in

what they had undertaken to perform. Many of the ladies now

withdrew, and we were soon left with the royal family. They all

invited us to see them again, before we left Berlin, and took leave

of us in the kindest manner.

One result of the reception accorded Mrs. Fry by royalty was the

amelioration of the condition of the Lutherans. It came about in this

way: in the course of her inquiries and intercourse among the people of

the Prussian dominions, she discovered that adherents to the Lutheran

Church were subject to much petty persecution on behalf of their faith.

True they were not dealt with so cruelly as in former times, but

frequently, at that very day, they were imprisoned, or suffered the loss

of property because of their religious opinions. The matter lay heavily

on Mrs. Fry's benevolent heart, and, seizing the opportunity, she spoke

to the Crown Prince at the meeting just described, on the behalf of the

persecuted Christians. The Crown Prince listened most attentively, and

advised her to lay the matter before the King in any way she deemed

proper. A petition was therefore drawn up by William Allen, translated

into German, and with much fear and trembling presented to His Majesty.

The following day the King's chaplain was sent bearing the "delightful

intelligence" that the petition had been received; further, the King had

said that "he thought the Spirit of God must have helped them to express

themselves as they had done."

About this time we find the following entry in her journal: "I have been

poorly enough to have the end of life brought closely before me, and to

stimulate me in faith to do _quickly_ what my Lord may require me."

Accordingly, engagements and undertakings multiplied, and 1841 witnessed

another brief visit to the continent of Europe. She seemed more and more

to get the conviction that she must lose no time while about her

Master's business, and such her prison, asylum and hospital labors most

assuredly were. The shadows of life's evening were gathering around her,

and heart and flesh beginning to fail, but no efforts of charity or

mercy might be found lacking.

On this visit her brother, Joseph John Gurney, and two nieces

accompanied her. Soon after arriving at the Hague, Mrs. Fry and Mr.

Gurney, being introduced to the King by Prince Albert, were commanded to

attend at a royal audience. This the travellers did, and, after about an

hour's conversation, departed highly gratified. Another day they spent

some time with the Princess of Orange, the Princess Frederick, and other

members of the royal house: all these personages were anxious to hear

about the work of prison reform, and to aid in it. After this they

departed for Amsterdam, Bremen, and other places; but their journey

resembled a triumphal progress more than anything else. The peasantry

followed the carriage shouting Mrs. Fry's name, and begging for tracts.

Sometimes, in order to get away, she was compelled to shake hands with

them all, and speak a few words of kindly greeting.

They extended the journey into Denmark, and were treated with marked

honor from the first. The Queen engaged apartments for the travellers at

the Hotel Royal, and on some occasions took Mrs. Fry to see schools and

other places, in her own carriage. On a subsequent day, when dining with

the King and Queen, Mrs. Fry and Mr. Gurney laid before their Majesties

the condition of persecuted Christians; the sad state of prisons in his

dominions; they also referred to the slavery in the Danish colonies in

the West Indies. Mr. Gurney having only recently returned from that part

of the world, he had much to tell respecting the spiritual and social

state of those colonies. Mrs. Fry records that at dinner she was placed

between the King and Queen, who both conversed very pleasantly with her.

At Minden, they had varied experiences of travelling and travellers'

welcomes. "I could not but be struck," says Mrs. Fry in her journal,

"with the peculiar contrast of my circumstances: in the morning

traversing the bad pavement of a street in Minden, with a poor, old

Friend in a sort of knitted cap close to her head; in the evening

surrounded by the Prince and Princesses of a German Court." The members

of the Prussian royal family were anxious to see her and hear from her

own lips an account of her labors in the cause of humanity. The

representatives of the House of Brandenburgh welcomed Mrs. Fry beyond

her most sanguine expectations; indeed, it would be nearer the truth to

say that in her lowly estimate of herself, she almost dreaded to

approach royal or noble personages, and that therefore she craved for no

honor, but only tolerance and favor. She never sought an interview with

any of these personages, but to benefit those who could not plead for

themselves. Her letters home exhibit no pride, boastfulness, or triumph;

all is pure thankfulness that one so unworthy as she deemed herself to

be should accomplish so much. Writing to her grandchildren she says:

"We dined at the Princess William's with several of the royal

family. The Queen came afterwards and appeared much pleased at my

delight on hearing that the King had stopped religious persecutions

in the country, and that several other things had been improved

since our last visit. It is a very great comfort to believe that

our efforts for the good of others have been blessed. Yesterday we

paid a very interesting visit to the Queen, then to Prince

Frederick of Holland and his Princess, sister to the King of

Prussia; with her we had much serious conversation upon many

important subjects, as we also had with the Queen.... Although

looked up to by all, they appear so humble, so moderate in

everything. I think the Christian ladies on the Continent dress far

more simply than those in England. The Countess appeared very

liberal, but extravagant in nothing. To please us she had apple

dumplings, which were quite a curiosity; they were really very

nice. The company stood still before and after dinner, instead of

saying grace. We returned from our interesting meeting at the

Countess's, about eleven o'clock in the evening. The royal family

were assembled and numbers of the nobility; after a while the King

and Queen arrived, the poor Tyrolese flocked in numbers. I doubt

such a meeting ever having been held anywhere before,--the curious

mixture of all ranks and conditions. My poor heart almost failed

me. Most earnestly did I pray for best help, and not unduly to fear

man. The royal family sat together, or nearly so; the King and

Queen, Princess William, and Princess Frederick, Princess Mary,

Prince William, Prince Charles, Prince Frederick of the

Netherlands, young Prince William, besides several other princes

and princesses not royal. Your uncle Joseph spoke for a little

while, explaining our views on worship. Then I enlarged upon the

changes that had taken place since I was last in Prussia; mentioned

the late King's kindness to these poor Tyrolese in their affliction

and distress; afterwards addressed these poor people, and then

those of high rank, and felt greatly helped to speak the truth to

them in love. They finished with a hymn."

Her last brief visit to the Continent was paid in 1843, and spent wholly

in Paris. Mrs. Fry was particularly interested in French prisons, as

well as in the measures designed to ameliorate the condition of those

who tenanted them. Reformation had become the order of the day there as

in England; the Duchess of Orleans, the Grand Duchess of Mecklenburg, M.

Guizot, the Duc de Broglie, M. de Tocqueville, M. Carnot, and other high

and noble personages were much interested in the subject. A bill to

sanction the needful reforms was introduced to the Chamber of Deputies

by the Minister of the Interior, and ably supported by him in a speech

of great lucidity and power. Said he, when laying it before the Chamber:

"Our subject is not entirely to sequestrate the prisoner nor to confine

him to absolute solitude. Some of the provisions of the bill will

mitigate the principle of solitary confinement in a manner which was

suggested by the Commission of 1840, and should not pass unnoticed by

the Chamber. Convicts sentenced to more than twelve years' hard labor,

or to perpetual hard labor, after having gone through twelve years of

their punishment, or when they shall have attained the age of seventy,

will be no longer separated from others, except during the night." The

bill further provided, besides this mitigation of the solitary

confinement system, that the "Bagnes," where galley slaves had hitherto

labored, should be replaced by houses of hard labor, and that smaller

prisons should be erected for minor offenses instead of sending

criminals convicted of them to the great central prisons. The bill was

certainly destined to effect a total revolution in the management of

such places as St. Lazare and similar prisons, in addition to giving

solid promise of improvement in the punitive system of France.

During this brief final visit to the French capital, Mrs. Fry entered on

her sixty-third year, aged and infirm in body, but still animated by the

master passion of serving the sad and sorrowful. Her brother, Joseph

John Gurney, together with his wife, were with her in Paris, but they

pursued their journey into Switzerland, while she returned home in June,

feeling that life's shadows were lengthening apace, and that not much

time remained to her in which to complete her work. The impressions she

had made on the society of the gay city had been altogether good. Like

the people who stared at the pilgrims passing through Vanity Fair, the

Parisians wondered, and understood for the first time that here was a

lady who did indeed pass through things temporal, "with eyes fixed on

things eternal"; and whose supreme delight lay, not in ball-rooms,

race-courses, or courts, but in finding out suffering humanity and

striving to alleviate its woes. Doubtless many of the gay Parisians

shrugged their shoulders and smiled good-humoredly at the "illusion,"

"notion," "fanaticism," or whatever else they called it; they were

simply living on too low a plane of life to understand, or to criticise

Mrs. Fry. Except animated by somewhat of fellow-feeling, none can

understand her career even now. It stands too far apart from, too highly

lifted above, our ordinary pursuits and pleasures, to be compared with

anything that less philanthropic-minded mortals may do. It called for a

far larger amount of self-denial than ordinary people are capable of; it

demanded too much singleness of purpose and sincerity of speech. Had

Mrs. Fry not come from a Quaker stock she might have conformed more to

the ways and manners of fashionable society; had she possessed less of

sterling piety, she might have sought to serve her fellow-creatures in

more easy paths. As a reformer, she was sometimes misunderstood, abused,

and spoken evil of. It was always the case and always will be, that

reformers receive injustice. Only, in some cases, as in this one, time

reverses the injustice, and metes out due honor. As a consequence,

Elizabeth Fry's name is surrounded with an aureola of fame, and her

self-abnegation affords a sublime spectacle to thoughtful minds of all

creeds and classes; for, simply doing good is seen to be the highest

glory.

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