_The Care of Jewels_
_How to Care For Jewels_
There are many misconceptions as to the care and the cleaning of jewels.
And there is but one sound rule. When jewelry needs to be cleaned, take
it to the jeweler.
A woman who takes her jewels to a jeweler, to have him clean them, is
showing that she regards him as her regular dealer; as such, he will
be happy to clean them without charge. At the same time, he will check
the settings, the clasps, the safety catches. While home cleaning might
damage a stone, or loosen it in its setting, professional work restores
the jewel so that it is both cleaner and more secure than before.
_Home Care_
There is one way in which a woman can help to keep her jewelry clean.
Every time that a jewel is worn, it should be wiped with clean tissue
paper, or chamois leather, before being put away. (Facial tissue should
not be used, as it will leave a fuzz.) Such a gentle wiping will remove
the grease of finger-marks, and other marks or specks.
_Cleaning Don’ts_
In general, it is inadvisable to use a brush for cleaning jewelry, as
it tends to loosen the stones. Eventually—not while being cleaned, but
during an otherwise pleasant evening—a stone may fall from the setting.
Ammonia, soap, and other cleaning agents are likely to leave a film. This
may be imperceptible; a woman may think she has “cleaned it all off”; and
yet it may greatly lessen the brilliance of the stone.
Soaking in boiling water—with or without chemicals—is dangerous. Some
alloys as well as some stones cannot stand such treatment. Likewise
sudden heat, or sudden cooling, may seriously damage certain stones; some
may even crack, or break. Most delicate are the emerald, the peridot, the
aquamarine, and the turquoise.
The turquoise especially should not come into contact with fatty or oily
substances. It is porous, and such substances are likely to change its
color, or to make it dull.
In every case, when she is tempted to apply home cleaning to her jewels,
a woman should remember that the jeweler is equipped with steam blowers
and other modern devices, each for its particular type of stone, and he
is glad to be called upon to give his expert knowledge and gentle care.
_Pearls_
Perhaps most care is required in the handling of the pearl. Boiling, for
example, is almost sure to loosen any pearls in a jewel. All chemicals
are to be avoided.
For casual cleaning, a pearl necklace may be wiped with a clean and
slightly damp cloth. It should not be pulled; the best way is to roll it
on a towel.
If the necklace becomes too wet, the string may become loosened. A pearl
necklace, indeed, should be regularly restrung; there is little sense in
waiting until it breaks. When the knots near the clasp of the necklace
have become grey, restringing time has come.
One must be careful not to put perfume, or any liquid containing alcohol,
on, or close to, pearls. They may lose their lustre, or even start to
peel.
At the hairdresser’s, pearls should of course be removed before any
treatment. The heat of the dryer, for example, may loosen the pearls in
their settings.
_Reminders_
Some of the things in this chapter I have already said; this is a time
for reminders. And one important reminder is that, even if the front
pearls are strung without knots—and they will be more lustrous if thus
close together—a few pearls on each side of the clasp should always be
knotted. That is the danger spot for breaks.
Another helpful reminder is that elaborate jewels may be made with
removable or convertible parts. I have discussed in detail how a very
formal jewel, likely to be worn on rare occasions, may be so fashioned
that, in various smaller units, it can be enjoyed more freely and
frequently.
And just one more reminder—about the necklace clasp. A colored stone,
such as an emerald or a ruby, may highlight a necklace of pearls. Or
the clasp may be of a single pearl, encircled by marquise or baguette
diamonds. But here is the place to enshrine that still precious but
“grown too small” engagement ring: make the engagement diamond the chief
stone in the necklace clasp. And of course something suitable must come
for that empty space next to the wedding band!
_More Cautioning_
Several other observations will be helpful.
A small pearl clasp should never be worn in front. Instead of looking
attractive, it will just look untidy.
A pearl necklace and a gold necklace should not be worn together. Each
will weaken the effect of the other.
Rhinestone ornaments should be avoided when one is wearing precious
jewelry. Rhinestones on dress or evening bag will cheapen the entire
effect. With jewelry, all other accessories should be subdued.
The amethyst is a temperamental stone. If worn in a ring, it calls for
nail polish in the purple hues. If these are unbecoming to a woman’s
hands, the amethyst is not for her. This may happen when the skin pigment
tends to be dark; amethysts may then make it seem sallow. But if the
purple hues are becoming, there may be great beauty in the amethyst.
Modern and antique jewels—this is an emphatic reminder—should never
be worn together. Modern cuts make stones so brilliant that they will
overshadow the daintier antiques, and may even make them look false. The
charm of the antique lies in its intricate and delicate workmanship,
in the grace of its details. Beside modern pieces, these qualities are
lost. Always, the one exception is the wearing of the engagement and the
wedding ring; these may be worn with either modern or antique jewels.
_For Travel_
One of the major concerns in regard to jewelry is its protection away
from home. Such questions as how to carry it, and how to insure it, call
for consideration and prior care.
_Insurance_
All good jewelry should of course be insured, itemized piece by piece.
This involves an appraisal by a recognized jewelry firm, which will
register the various jewels, listing the number of stones and their
weight, and indicating the current retail replacement value. There should
also be a photographic record made of the jewels. This may be kept in
microfilm. Most large jewelers keep a photographic record of every jewel
that passes through their hands.
The appraisal of the jewels should be kept up to date. Values of stones
are in a state of constant change; usually there is an increase. Once a
year is not too often for a reappraisal, and the insurance broker should
at once be informed of any significant changes. Such a revised evaluation
is a guarantee of full compensation in the event of loss, and gives an
adjustor no ground for argument as to the value of a jewel or a stone.
The inventory should include every piece of jewelry, including the less
expensive items, such as might be worn every day. These are just the ones
that are likely to be lost or stolen.
_The Traveling Case_
Since most policies cover the loss or theft of jewels at home or abroad,
there is no need to leave precious jewels at home while traveling.
There is, of course, no need to advertise their presence by boarding a
ship or plane with a standard jewelry case carefully in hand. Much less
conspicuous, as well as safer and more convenient, is a jewelry pouch
carried inside the handbag.
Individual pouches can accommodate the various jewels. Long experience
traveling with many jewels, both of my professional and of my personal
collection, enabled me to fashion a pouch that combines practicality with
good looks. This pattern has come to be widely used, and may be purchased
at leading stores throughout the country.
The pouch is made of suede leather, chamois lined; it contains partitions
that comfortably hold the various types of jewel: bracelets, earclips,
clips, rings, necklaces, and the rest. Bracelets and necklaces, of
course, should not be forced out of shape by rolling or bending, lest the
stones be pressed out of their settings.
The chamois is designed to keep the jewels apart, so as not to scratch
one another. Hard gems might, for instance, injure the skin of pearls.
The hardest of all, the diamond, must be carefully wrapped so that it
will not scratch other stones.
Should there be enough jewels in the collection to warrant more than one
pouch, the lucky owner may have the suede in various colors. An emerald
parure may thus be in the green pouch, while the red pouch holds the
jewels that are mainly of rubies. This will not only save hunting around,
but will simplify selection if the jewels are left with the purser.
It is wise, on board a liner, to check one’s jewelry with the purser, and
to take out each day only the pieces that are to help one shine on that
occasion. First day and last day at sea are most informal.
_Registering Jewels_
All jewels taken on a trip should be listed; a copy of the list should be
taken, another copy should be left at home.
Some countries, such as Turkey, have rigid regulations regarding the
export of jewels. In such cases—which can be indicated by the travel
agent—it is well to register one’s jewelry with the customs official
when entering the country. In this way, one can be sure of taking it out.
Similarly, for complete security of this sort throughout a journey,
jewelry may be registered with the U.S. Customs before leaving the United
States. The customs officer checks the jewelry and the list, keeps a copy
and gives one, officially signed, to the traveler. In cases where this
precaution was not taken, a person returning to the United States has
been unable to prove that she had a certain valuable jewel before leaving
the country, and has had to pay duty on it.
Such a list may be helpful in many ways. Every large port has this
service available to travelers. In New York, jewels may be officially
registered at the Appraiser Stores, at 201 Varick Street, where courteous
attention and thoughtful advice are given to all.
_Traveling Cautions_
Jewelry should never be left in an untended car. Sometimes that “just a
moment” away stretches to dangerous minutes.
Jewelry should never be left in checked baggage. Jewelry should not be
left in the drawers of the dressing table, nor indeed anywhere in an
unguarded room. Every hotel has a safe in which, without charge, guests
may keep their valuables.