_The Ring_
While the necklace is the most conspicuous jewel in a woman’s parure, and
the earclip does more than any other to make subtle alterations in her
appearance, the finger ring is beyond compare the most popular of all
jewels. There seems little to be said about the purchase of a ring except
that one should select a beautiful jewel, and yet there are many ways
in which the ring can not only contribute to the overall effect of the
personality but actually beautify the hand.
_The Giving of a Ring_
In the first place, the manifold aspects of its symbolism—to be discussed
more fully later—bar this jewel from any casual giving. A brooch, a
clip, earclips, or a bracelet: all these might be sent as a gift to any
person, without further thought; but a ring is bought for and given to
a relative, or someone closer still—or someone to whom one wishes to be
close. And the recipient of a ring should be aware of the implications
involved in its acceptance. If a ring is proffered as a gift before
there is an understanding that admits of such a present, the intended
recipient will find a gracious way of declining such an “elaborate” or
“too magnificent” or “over-generous” gift.
_Consider the Hand_
The right to give a ring includes the pleasure of selecting a gift that
will both please and adorn. This demands some consideration of that fine
instrument too often taken for granted, the human hand. Most of the time
we merely use our hands. Nevertheless, almost unconsciously yet almost
inevitably, our glance falls upon a person’s fingers when we meet, for
the hands are the surest guide to an individual’s make-up. And I do not
mean the “make-up” that is applied. Faces may be altered; neck wrinkles
may be disguised; fingernails are dressed up; chins may be lifted; noses
may be shaped—the hands remain undisguised.
The ring calls attention to the hand. It invites the gaze, which, while
admiring the ring, is also aware of the fingers that are background to
the jewel. And the ring should be selected not only to fit the finger but
also to suit the hand.
_Proportions of the Hand_
A hand may be long and slender or long and large. It may be short and
stubby or short and thin. It may taper from the palm along almost
straight fingers or have the line broken by larger knuckles. There are
differences in the proportion between the fingers and the palm. All of
these elements of finger size and shape, of hand proportions, should
be weighed in selecting a ring. They have an important bearing on the
size and shape of the stones, and on the width or thickness of the band.
Comparatively few women, however often they may have polished their
nails, are really familiar with their hands.
Certain general proportions between rings and hands need little more than
mention. A small ring overemphasizes a large hand. On slender fingers or
a small hand, a large ring is overpowering. If a fairly large ring is
desired by someone with a dainty hand, a dome-shaped ring may be most
becoming, or a ring with the stone set high; but it should be worn only
on the third finger. Such a ring adds considerable style to an outfit.
If the fingers are quite short, however, it will be best to choose an
oblong ring. If the fingers are long and thin, the stone should be set
so as to run not along the finger but across it; the eye, following the
ring, tends to foreshorten the finger length. The ring should fit the
personality; the stone may fit the occasion.
_The Diamond Ring: The Engagement Ring_
The engagement ring is, in all probability, a young woman’s first
important ring. There is, for this, hardly any choice other than a
diamond. The gem, however, may be variously set. Usually it is a single
stone, the solitaire, in a plain band of gold or platinum. The diamond
may be brilliant cut; this is conservative but in impeccable taste. It
should be set in thin high prongs of the chosen metal, so as to give
fullest play to the light from all its facets and to take full advantage
of its irradiating brilliance.
Among other cuts that are favored for the engagement diamond are the
square, the emerald, and the pear-shaped. For shorter or thicker fingers,
a highly effective cut is the marquise. This cut is named in honor of the
Marquise de Montespan, an elegant, beautiful and sensible woman who was
mistress of Louis XIV. Aware of the somewhat short length of her fingers,
she ordered the crown jeweler to have her ring diamonds cut in the form
of an oval pointed at both ends. Because it resembles a boat, this cut
is sometimes called the navette, but now more often the marquise. Making
the fingers seem longer and more slender, it at once became a popular
diamond style. When testing the appearance of a stone on the finger, it
is well to look at a marquise-cut diamond.
While the solitaire is still the most popular engagement ring, there is a
youthful jauntiness in combinations of diamonds which has made the use of
several stones a current vogue. Almost any newly betrothed maiden would
feel keenly disappointed if the ring did not have as its center stone the
large solitaire. But this may be pleasantly flanked by smaller stones of
different cut, such as two baguettes lying close along the band.
_The Wedding Ring_
The obvious symbolism of the wedding ring, as it is often told today,
marks the subjection of the woman to the will of the man, her pledge to
continue to love, honor _and obey_. Some supposed thinkers in the field
of folklore go farther, and tell us that the ring is placed on the left,
the inferior, hand to denote that the woman is “inferior.” These ideas
are manifestly advanced by men. Two facts at once put them out of joint.
In the first place, the wedding ring for long periods of time was worn on
the right hand. In the second place, for equally long periods of time,
both bride and groom had a ring put on in mutual bondage.
The basic significance of the ring remains, however, twofold. The first
meaning is symbolical. Being endless, the ring betokens the love without
end that is the hope of the betrothal and the realization of two lives
long spent “as one.” The second meaning was practical. The marriage ring
was the man’s signet ring, which was as universally obeyed as his direct
order, for the stamp of that seal was as the thunder of his command.
By placing this ring on the bride’s finger, he was conferring upon her
equal authority in the household and home—literally carrying out what
he declared in the wedding service: “With all my worldly goods I thee
endow.” It is not subordination but everlasting equality in mutual
respect and love that is held in the magic circle of the wedding band.
_The Wearing of the Band_
Two rings should not be worn at the same time on the same hand, except
the wedding ring, which in due time comes to slide along the same finger
as the engagement ring to mark the fulfilment of the first ring’s
promise. As they are to be boon companions for a long, long time, the
wedding ring should be of the same metal as the engagement ring. The wide
wedding band, though almost universal at the beginning of this century
and returning to popularity, has certain disadvantages. It looks becoming
only on a large hand. Even there it may make the engagement ring look too
small.
In more than the size and the metal, the engagement ring’s style should
be considered in the purchase of the wedding band. A neutral pattern is
simplest to match. It might be an unadorned band of metal or a simple
ring of small round, baguette or marquise diamonds, or two of these cuts
alternating, set close to the metal. Alternating marquise and round
diamonds may form a sort of crown design and a most attractive jewel.
There is a great variety of possible patterns and styles among which one
should select carefully, for this is the choice of a lifetime.
In measuring the size of the wedding band, care should be taken not to
make it too snug. Even if one be fortunate enough not to add weight with
the years, the size of the fingers changes with the seasons. They swell a
little in hot weather, and if the band is too tight the finger will bulge
on either side. It is better to fit the ring for the July finger, and in
December, if necessary, wear an unobtrusive and attractive guard.
_The Pearl Ring_
After the diamond ring in beauty and popularity, and freer from any
intimate symbolism, is the pearl ring. The pearl ring is appropriate
throughout the day for many occasions. It will harmonize with most
colors, once it has been carefully chosen—as I indicated when discussing
the pearl necklace—to harmonize with the wearer’s complexion. In fact, a
pearl necklace and a pearl ring may make a beautiful combination.
The pearl ring is often enhanced by the effect of flanking diamonds. A
white pearl against white skin sometimes calls for added light or color.
By proper design, with well chosen accompanying stones, a pearl may be
made to look lighter or darker, larger and more luminous.
I once had a client with a large grey pearl that was not dark enough
for her taste. As she was a motion picture star, moreover, she had to
be concerned with how the jewel would photograph. I suggested mounting
the pearl in a high setting with a background of baguette diamonds. The
brilliance of the diamonds caught and reflected the shadings of the
pearl, both adding to the depth of its color and increasing the quality
of its lustrous tones. It enhanced the lightness of the actress’s skin
and in her photographs stood out as a most striking jewel.
_The Black Pearl_
Beyond all other combinations, the white pearl stands in superb contrast
with the black. The grey pearl also makes an interesting counterbalance
with the white, but the effects of the rare black pearl are unique. Crown
jewels of almost every kingdom, active or in exile, include a design
utilizing the values of the white pearl with the black.
Until recent years, the black pearl was the most sought after of all
its kind, and wise women today are again appreciating its values. There
is no more dramatic accent than the dark lustre of a black pearl against
a fair skin. The most striking use I ever saw of such a contrast was at
a party when Marlene Dietrich commanded every eye. She had asked me to
design a ring for her with three large pearls, one black, one white, one
pink. For her beautiful hand I mounted the three pearls high and set them
against round and baguette diamonds. Shortly after the ring was finished,
I saw Marlene at the party. She wore a simple dress, high-necked and
long-sleeved. With sure discrimination she wore very few jewels:
earrings, of which one was a white pearl, one was a black; and the pearl
ring. The striking ensemble could not have been better displayed.
There can be great dramatic value in a single pearl.
_Decorative Rings_
Most of the rings a woman wears, of course, are purely decorative without
symbolism or intent beyond the enhancing of her beauty. The variety of
such rings is infinite, and the range allows wide choice, no matter what
the personality and taste of the wearer.
The little finger is often favored for a decorative ring, and certain
flower motifs are attractive there. Such a ring should be comparatively
small; the little finger must border the hand with a straight line. This
ring requires careful fitting so that it will not turn to the side. Women
who are active or who move their hands a lot while talking should avoid
the pinkie ring, as delicate settings may be damaged by frequent knocks.
_Matched With Earclips_
A growing trend is to match a finger ring with a pair of earclips.
Such a set may lend its harmony to an ensemble. There are patterns of
dome-shaped earclips that also make attractive rings. Flower designs,
similarly used, if modulated in three dimensions, can produce dramatic
effects. The stones and the design in the ring may be the same size as in
the earclips or a little smaller.
The sculptor Rodin hid the hands of his great statue of Balzac, because
he wanted the beholders’ eyes to move directly up to the massive head.
But the everyday beholders of a fair lady see her moving hands as well as
her lively countenance; and the matching earclips and finger ring form a
pleasant device for tying together the charms of the personality.
_Interchangeable Centers_
Another ring design that has a comparatively new vogue is that with a
changeable center. A permanent band and setting are prepared. The best
stones for the setting, to harmonize with any possible center stone, are
diamonds. Thus baguette diamonds along the band, with perhaps a round
stone, or a marquise, on each side next to the center, make a beautiful
background to any stone. Then, for the center stone, one may have a
varied selection, using what fits one’s mood and the occasion. A pearl,
an emerald, a sapphire, a ruby: stones of similar size can be mounted
so that any one can be set into the jewel. In this way, with the single
mounting, a series of rings can be worn, surprisingly different in their
appearance and effect.
There are other changes that can be effected with rings, almost of the
order of optical illusions. If a woman who has been wearing a ring on
her third finger transfers it to the little finger, she will think that
the gem has grown—perhaps a carat or more. Moving a ring in the other
direction makes it seem smaller. Perhaps a ring usually worn on one
finger really belongs on another. This transference often gives a ring a
new added attraction and wearability. The cost of resizing is very small.
_Ring Sizes_
Whatever the finger, the ring should not be made too tight. As I said
before, it is better to have a guard ring, which, though a narrow band,
can be made in itself an article of true adornment.
Should a ring that has not been taken off for some time resist removal,
it should not be forced. Some women become panicky when they cannot pull
off a ring—as though its obstinacy made them unwilling slaves. A little
soapy water will usually prove effective. The moistened hand should be
held pointing toward the ceiling, while the finger is gently massaged.
When the swelling seems to have somewhat subsided, the ring should be
turned around and around, with a slight upward pull; once past the wide
part of the finger, it is off. If the ring continues rebellious, the
jeweler is equipped with special instruments for the painless removal of
tight-fitting rings.
If the knuckles are large, the ring that passes over them will of
course be loose where it is supposed to stay snug. Here too the jeweler
can assist. A simple adjustment, of which there are several types,
accommodates the ring to the different finger sizes. The ring will slip
off easily, yet stay fixed in the proper position, neither sliding nor
turning around.
_Rings and Nail Polish_
More than once, in selecting a ring, a woman has rejected one that was
quite beautiful, because it did not look well on her hands. This is an
excellent reason—if the hands were not prejudiced by the nail polish. The
polish should be fitted to the ring, not the ring to the polish. In other
words, when the selection of a ring is the business of the day, a neutral
polish or none at all should be worn. After the ring has been chosen,
the polish should be selected to complement the stone. With the colored
stones of a dinner ring, this is important.
With a diamond ring, for example, the frosty white nail polish should
be avoided, as it diminishes the beauty of the gem. With a coral ring,
the nail polish that suggests itself is of an orange hue. With a ruby,
perhaps a purplish polish, but not too deep, lest by its ardor it make
the ruby look pale. Some colored stones will be attractive with more than
one shade of nail polish. A little experimentation and taste can create
surprisingly varied and dramatic effects, as the nails, differently
colored for an evening and for a weekend afternoon, differently interplay
with the colors of the ring.
_About Wearing a Ring_
Some fashions in rings and their wearing call for brief comment. Although
the Elizabethan men and three hundred years later their sisters in the
frenzied Twenties of this century wore rings over their gloves, the
practice has lapsed from good taste. A ring with a large stone or a
dome-shaped design should be turned with this toward the palm before a
glove is put on; there will then be no difficulty nor tear.
The current fashion of fingernails keeps them long and almost pointed.
A woman who for practical or other reasons wears her nails short will
find that her rings appear to better advantage if she keeps her bracelets
a little higher on the arm. This, in a sense, incorporates part of the
wrist into the hand, giving at that end the greater length which has been
lost at the other.
Rings should always be taken off when the hands are washed. This is
even more important when what are being washed are not the hands but
the dishes, for soapy water may harm the rings. It may actually take
the lustre from certain stones; but in any case, a film of soap on the
under-surface of a stone deprives the jewel of that glow it is supposed
to have and mars the beauty which is the jewel’s excuse for being.
No matter how careful one may be, the ring, worn on the most animated
and active part of the body, requires cleaning more often than any other
jewel. The ring, as I began by saying, calls attention to the hand which
should be well manicured and groomed. But especially the ring should be
chosen and worn so that it becomes an effectively contributing part of a
woman’s beauty.