_August 5th_.--There are rumours today that the son of the Emperor
Napoleon will be called to fill the vacant throne. This seems to me to
be very improbable, when I reflect that General Lafayette, whose
influence is omnipotent at present, appears wholly devoted to the Duc
d'Orléans. The minds of the people are as yet wholly unsettled; a dread
of how their late exploits may be looked on by the foreign powers
allied to the deposed sovereign, pervades the multitude, and the
republicans begin to discover that their Utopian schemes are little
likely to be advanced by the revolution effected.
I was forcibly struck this morning on reading, in an Italian writer,
the following passage, which is strongly applicable to the present
time:
"When a revolution is ripe, men are always found who are
ready to commence it, and make their bodies the steps to the
throne of him who is to profit by their labours, without
having shared their dangers."
I have a presentiment that the truth of this axiom will be verified in
France.
_August 6th_.--Reports are now afloat that the crown of France has been
offered to the Duke of Orléans, but that the offer was not unanimous,
and that consequently he has not accepted it. Other rumours state, that
if he should be induced to do so, it will only be to hold it as a
sacred deposit to be restored to the rightful owner when, with safety
to both parties, it can be transferred. Should this be the case, then
will the Duke of Orleans deserve well of the elder branch of his family
who have behaved so kindly towards him, but I confess I am not one of
those who believe in the likelihood of such an abnegation of self, as
this voluntary abdication would display.
Rich possessions are seldom if ever willingly resigned, and a crown is
one said to have such irresistible charms to the person who has once
worn it, that history furnishes but few examples like that of Charles
the Fifth, or Christina of Sweden. Time will prove whether
Louis-Philippe d'Orléans will offer a _pendant_!
I walked with Comte d'O---- this evening into the Champs-Elysees, and
great was the change effected there within the last few days. It looks
ruined and desolate, the ground cut up by the pieces of cannon, and
troops as well as the mobs that have made it a thoroughfare, and many
of the trees greatly injured, if not destroyed.
A crowd was assembled around a man who was reading aloud for their
edification a proclamation nailed to one of the trees. We paused for a
moment to hear it, when some of the persons recognising my companion,
shouted aloud, "_Vive le Comte d'Orsay! Vive le Comte d'Orsay!"_ and
the cry being taken up by the mass, the reader was deserted, the fickle
multitude directing ail their attention and enthusiasm to tho new
comer. We had some difficulty in escaping from these troublesome and
unexpected demonstrations of good will; and, while hurrying from the
scene of this impromptu ovation to the unsought popularity of my
companion, I made him smile by hinting at the danger in which he stood
of being raised to the vacant throne by those who seem not to know or
care who is to fill it.
Comte d'O---- was as much puzzled as I was how to account for this
burst of enthusiasm, for, taking no part in politics, and all his
family being attached to the legitimate cause, this demonstration of
regard appears more inexplicable. It seems, however, to establish one
fact, and that is, that though the monarch has fallen into disrepute
with the people, the aristocracy have not, and this alone proves how
totally different are the feelings of those who have effected the
present revolution with those of the persons who were engaged in the
former one, a difference, perhaps, not more to be attributed to the
change produced in the people by the extension of education, than in
the _noblesse_ by the same cause, aided by the habits and feelings it
engenders. Whatever may be the cause, the effect is salutary, for the
good understanding evident between the two classes tends greatly to the
amelioration and advantage of both. There is something very contagious
in popular feeling. It resembles an epidemic from which few of the
class more peculiarly exposed to it escape.
Walked into the streets to-day, for a carriage cannot yet pass through
them. Never did any town, not actually sacked, present a more changed
aspect. Houses damaged by shots, windows smashed, pavements destroyed,
and trees cut down or mutilated, meet the eye along the Boulevards. The
destruction of the trees excited more regret in my mind than that of
the houses. There, many of them lay on the ground shorn of their leafy
honours, offering obstructions on the spots which they so lately
ornamented, while others stood bare and desolate, their giant limbs
lopped off, their trunks shattered by bullets, and retaining only a few
slight branches oh high, to which still adhered the parched,
discoloured, and withered leaves, sole remnants of their lately
luxuriant foliage.
The houses may be rebuilt and the streets newly paved, but how many
years will it take before these trees can be replaced! Those who loved
to repose beneath their shade, or who, pent in a city, were solaced by
beholding them and thinking of the country of which they brought
pleasant recollections, will grieve to miss them, and, like me, own
with a sigh, while contemplating the ravages occasioned by the events
of the last few days, that if good ever is effected by that most
dangerous of all experiments, a revolution, it is too dearly bought.
The people seem as proud and pleased as possible with the
accomplishment of the task they took in hand. How long will they
continue so? They are like a too-spirited horse who, having mastered
his rider, requires a bolder and more expert hand to subjugate him
again to obedience, and the training will be all the more painful from
the previous insubordination. Of one thing the people may be proud, and
that is, their having not stained this revolution with any of the
crimes that have left so indelible a blot on the former one.
How soon does the mind habituate itself to an unnatural state of
excitement! My _femme de chambre_ positively looked blank and
disappointed this morning, when, on entering my _chambre à coucher_,
she answered in reply to my question, whether any thing new had
occurred during the night, "_Non, miladi, positivement rien_." Strange
to say, I too felt _désoeuvré_ by the want of having something to be
alarmed or to hope about,--I, who meddle not with politics, and wish
all the world to be as quiet and as calm as myself. Every one I see
appears to experience this same flatness, just like the reaction
produced on the spirits the first day or two after the Italian
Carnival, when the cessation of gaiety, though felt to be a relief to
the frame, leaves the mind unfitted for repose.
I find this feeling is generally experienced, for several of the
shop-keepers, whose profit,--nay, whose very bread, depends on the
restoration of social order, confess it. One person, the wife of a
jeweller, owned to me to-day that Paris was now beginning to be very
_triste_.
"To be sure they were no longer afraid to open their shops, and
commerce they hoped would soon become active again, but there was no
more the same interest continually awakened, as when every hour,--nay,
every minute brought some new event, and she and her neighbours looked
out to behold the fighting in the streets, the wounded and the dying
dropping around, and trembled for their own lives, and for the safety
of those dear to them." In short, as she admitted, the want of
excitement was experienced by all those who had lately become
accustomed to it, as much as it is felt by the habitual gamester who
cannot live without play.
This is a dangerous state for the people of a great city to find
themselves in. Vastly more dangerous than if subdued by a
long-continued excess of excitement, their moral as well as their
physical force required repose, and they gladly resigned themselves to
it.
To a sober-minded denizen of England, the ungovernable pride,
insatiable vanity, and love of fighting, inherent in the French, appear
really little short of insanity, to so great an excess do they push
these manias. This will always render them so difficult to be governed,
that it will require no ordinary abilities and firmness in him who
undertakes the arduous task of ruling them. Yet the very excess of
these passions renders the French the most able, as they decidedly are
the most willing, instruments to be employed in achieving the aims of
the wildest ambition, or the most glorious enterprises. He will the
longest and most securely govern them, who calls these passions into
action, provided always that they meet no check, for the French not
only bear adversity impatiently, but soon turn against him who has
exposed them to it: witness their conduct to the Emperor Napoleon, who,
while success frowned his banner, was their idol.
Playing at soldiers is the favourite game of Frenchmen of every class
and description, and every opportunity afforded them of indulging it is
gladly seized. When I compare the reluctance with which the yeomanry of
Ireland, or the local militia of England, leave their homes and their
business to "assume the spear and shield," with the enthusiasm evinced
by the _Garde Nationale_ when they are called to leave their
_boutiques_ and don their uniforms, I am more than ever struck with the
remarkable difference existing between two nations separated by so
short a distance. The English local militia man will fight when
occasion requires, and with determined courage, too, because he
believes it to be his duty, but the French National Guard will combat
for the mere love of combating, and forget home and interest in the
pleasure of the excitement.
The Duchesse de Guiche has returned to Paris, while her amiable and
noble-minded husband has accompanied the royal family to Cherbourg,
where they are to embark for England. Nothing can exceed the courage
and dignity with which she supports her altered fortunes. She thinks
only of those to whom the Duc and herself have been so long and so
truly devoted; and in her chagrin for their sufferings forgets her own.
The Duc has such a perfect confidence in her good sense and tact, that
he has sent her his _procuration_ to act for him in his absence. No
sooner had she arrived at her abode, than she sent to demand the
protection of General Gérard[10] for the house and stables of the
Dauphin, and ho immediately ordered a guard to be placed there. Heaven
grant that she may not be exposed to any annoyance during the absence
of her husband!
The Duchesse de Guiche gave a new proof of her courage and presence of
mind yesterday. Early in the morning, having heard a noise in the
courtyard of her dwelling, she beheld from the window of her chamber an
officer gesticulating with violence, and menacing the grooms of the
Dauphin. The upper servant entered at the moment, and announced that
the officer insisted on seizing six of the finest horses in the stable,
by order of General Lafayette.
The Duchesse descended to the courtyard, informed the officer that the
whole establishment was under the protection of General Gérard, without
whose orders no horse should leave the stables. He attempted to enforce
his pretensions; but the Duchesse desired the head groom to call out
his assistants, about thirty in number, who, armed with pitchforks and
other implements of their calling, soon came forth; and the Duchesse
assured the intruder that, unless he immediately retired, he should be
forcibly expelled.
Seeing the courage and determination of this high-spirited and
beautiful woman, the officer withdrew, and the horses were saved. It
has since been ascertained, as the Duchesse anticipated, that General
Lafayette had never given any orders to the officer who had used his
name.
_7th_.--The Duke of Orleans has at length accepted the crown; and
various are the conjectures and reports to which his doing so has given
rise. Many of them, as may be easily imagined, are not creditable to
him; but on this occasion, as on most others, the least charitable
motives are generally assigned to those whose conduct is judged by the
mass often wholly ignorant of the reasons on which it is based. The
vast wealth of the Duke of Orleans has a powerful influence; and those
who a few days ago exclaimed against royalty, and vaunted the superior
advantages of a government without a king, are now reconciled to having
one whose immense private fortune will exempt the nation from the
necessity of furnishing funds for a civil list. Should the new
sovereign hereafter demand one, his popularity will be endangered; and
the King of the French, as he is styled, will be likely to find as
little favour in the eyes of his subjects as the King of France
experienced.
Popularity, always, and in all countries, an unstable possession, is in
France infinitely more so; and Louis-Philippe must have more luck, as
well as more wisdom, than falls to the lot of mankind, to retain this
fleeting good when the novelty of his reign has worn away. That he is a
man of great ability no one seems to entertain a doubt; but his wisdom
would, in my opinion at least, have been more surely manifested had he
declined instead of accepting the crown.
Those who profess to be best acquainted with his sentiments declare,
that he only acceded to the wishes of the people in ascending the
vacant throne, in order to preserve the charter, and to preclude the
dangerous theoretical experiments into which the republican party was
so desirous to plunge. It remains to be proved whether, in a few years
hence, those who have subverted one monarchy by violence may not be
tempted to have recourse to a similar measure in order to free
themselves from the successor they have chosen; for even already it
appears clear to me, that the expectations entertained, not only by the
partisans of Louis-Philippe, but by the generality of the people, are
such as he never can fulfil. He may be their idol for a brief space,
but, like all other idols, he will be expected to perform miracles; and
not having the sanctity with which time invests even false gods, he may
be thrown from the pedestal to which he has been elevated as
unceremoniously as he was raised to it.
I saw General Lafayette to-day, and never felt more disappointed, as
his appearance does not at all correspond with what I had imagined it
to be. The "Lafayette _aux cheveux blancs_," as the popular song
describes him to be, is, _au contraire_, a plain old man, with a dark
brown scratch wig, that conceals his forehead, and, consequently, gives
a very common and, to my thinking, a disagreeable expression to his
countenance. The _cheveux blancs_ would be a great improvement; for,
independently of the song thus describing him, one looks for the
venerable mark of age in this Nestor of revolutions, who in his youth
has seen his idol, Liberty, commit fearful crimes in France as well as
great deeds in America, and who now, when on the threshold of the
grave, in which ere long he must repose, beholds her regeneration in
his native land, redeemed from the cruelty that formerly stained her
course.
"_Voilà le grand Lafayette_!" exclaimed one of the people as he passed
to-day; "_Oui, la ganache des deux mondes_," replied the other. Such is
popular favour!
I walked in the Palais-Royal to-day; and felt much more disposed to
pity than envy the King of the French, as Louis-Philippe is styled,
when I beheld a crowd of idle miscreants, assembled in front of his
dwelling, rudely and boisterously vociferating his name, and in a tone
much more resembling command than entreaty, desiring his presence. He
at length came forward, bowed repeatedly, pressed his hand to his
heart, and then withdrew, looking, as I thought, rather ashamed of the
_rôle_ he was called on to enact, while his riotous audience seemed
elated at exhibiting his docility.
The Queen was then called for, and, after some delay, was handed
forward by Louis-Philippe. It made me sad to look on the altered
countenance of this amiable woman, whom all parties allow to be a most
faultless wife and mother. She is hardly to be recognised as the same
being who only a very few months ago looked the personification of
happiness. Already have deep care and anxiety left their furrows on her
brow, proving that
A diadem, howe'er so bright it be,
Brings cares that frighten gentle sleep away,
E'en when from buried ancestors it comes,
Who bless'd when they bequeath it to their heir;
For great is the responsibility
Of those who wear the symbol of a king,
In regular succession handed down
From sire to son through long antiquity.
But when th' anointed head that wore it once
Sleeps not in death--but exiled, worse than death--
And scions legitimate live to claim
Their birthright, oh! how heavy is that crown
(Though loose it fits), which well the wearer knows,
A people's breath may blow from of his brow,
Sear'd by the burning weight, it yet would guard,
E'n though it crush him.
I am told that no day passes in which a crowd does not assemble beneath
the windows of Louis-Philippe and loudly vociferate for his presence.
M. Laffitte is not unfrequently seen with the king on these occasions,
and when they embrace the crowd applauds.
I cannot imagine a more painful position than that of the Queen of the
French. Devotedly attached to her husband and family, she will have
often to tremble for their safety, exposed, as it must be, to the
inconstancy and evil passions _soi-disant_ subjects, who may, ere long,
be disposed to pull down the throne they have erected for
Louis-Philippe as rapidly as they raised the barricades for its
elevation.
Had the King of the French succeeded to the throne by the natural
demise of those who stood between him and it, how different would be
his position; for it is agreed by all who know him, that he has many
qualities that eminently fit him to fill it with credit to himself and
advantage to the people; but as it is, I foresee nothing but trouble
and anxiety for him,--a melancholy change from the domestic happiness
he formerly enjoyed. Any attempt to check the turbulence of the people
will be resented as an act of the utmost ingratitude to those who
placed the crown on his head; and if he suffers it with impunity, he
will not only lose his empire over them, but incur the contempt of the
more elevated of his subjects.
I saw the King of the French walking through the Place Vendôme to-day,
attended only by one person. He was recognised, and cheered, and
returned the salutation very graciously. And there stood the column
erected to commemorate the victories of one now sleeping in a foreign
grave; one whose very name was once the talisman that excited all
Parisian hearts into the wildest enthusiasm!
Louis-Philippe passed near the base of the column, which seemed to
return a sullen echo to the voices that cheered him; did he, or those
around him, remember their vicinity to this striking memorial of the
inconstancy of the nation? The scene awakened more reflections in my
mind than I dare say it did in that of those whose voices rent the air;
but though it might be only fancy, I thought the King of the French
looked very grave.
Monsieur Mignet spent last evening here; his conversation is full of
interest, being the overflowing of a rich mind, free from prejudices,
and his ideas, though methodically arranged and subjected to the ordeal
of a sober judgment, bear the warm tint of a brilliant imagination,
that might have rendered him a poet, had he not chosen to be a
historian. The Revolution has produced no visible change in this clever
and agreeable man, who, filling the office of Keeper of the Archives,
devotes his time to studies and researches in harmony with the pursuits
to which he has many years been accustomed, and hears the success of
the popular cause, to which he has long been attached, with a
moderation and equanimity highly indicative of a philosophical mind,
allied to an amiable disposition. There is something so striking in the
appearance of Monsieur Mignet, that all strangers, who meet him here,
remark the fine character of his head and the expression of his
countenance.
The celebrated General Peppé dined here yesterday, and is very unlike
the revolutionary hero I had pictured him to be. Mild, well-bred, and
amiable in his manner, he seems much more suited to command a regiment
in support of a legitimate monarchy, than to subvert one. Although
liberty appears to be with him a monomania, the warmth with which he
advocates it in conversation never urges him beyond the bounds of good
breeding.
It is a strange infatuation to suppose that as civilisation extends its
influence, men will have faith in the Utopian schemes of well-meaning
visionaries, and risk evils they know not, in exchange for a state
which, if not quite faultless, has at least much of good. How many
brave and honourable men become the dupes of heated imaginations and
erroneous opinions, which, urging them to effect an amelioration of
some grievances, incur the penalty of imparting greater ones! General
Peppé is liked by all who know him, though all lament the monomania
that has gained such an ascendency over his mind. His brother, General
Florestan Peppé at Naples, whom we esteem so much, is one of the most
excellent men I ever knew.
The Duc de Guiche has returned to Paris, after having seen the royal
family safely embarked at Cherbourg. The departure of the aged monarch
presented a melancholy scene. At his time of life, he can never hope to
behold his country again, and the sudden change from the throne of a
great kingdom to a compelled exile in a foreign land is a reverse of
fortune that demands a philosophy to support, with which few are blest.
There is something touching in the attachment of the Duc and Duchesse
de Guiche to this unfortunate family, and above all, to the Dauphin and
Dauphine. Always aware of their affection for them, I never imagined
the strength of it, until the adversity which has sent so many of those
who had previously loudly professed their devotion to them away, but
which has increased the feelings of reverence towards them in this
estimable couple, by mingling with it a sentiment of deep
commiseration, that induces a still greater display of respect, now
that so many others dispense with evincing it. The Duc is charged with
the disposal of the property of the Dauphin; and, when this task is
accomplished, he and his family will follow the fallen fortunes of
Charles the Tenth, and join him at Holyrood.
Loving France as they do, and wishing their sons to be brought up in
the land of their birth, strong indeed must be the affection that
induces them to abandon it, in order to devote themselves to the exiled
Bourbons. This devotion to the fallen is the more meritorious when the
liberality of the Duc's political opinions is taken into consideration.
How few sovereigns find such devotion in adversity! and how seldom are
men to be met with capable of sacrificing their own interests and the
future prospects of their children to a sense of duty!
* * * * *
A lapse in my journal.--All seems now settled. The foreign powers have
acknowledged the King of the French; and this acknowledgment has not
only delighted his subjects, but confirmed them in the belief of their
own right to make or unmake sovereigns according to their will and
pleasure.
The English are very popular in Paris at this moment, and the ready
recognition of Louis-Philippe by our government has increased this good
feeling. A vast crowd escorted the carriage of Mr. Hamilton, the
Secretary of the Embassy, to his door, as he returned from his first
accredited audience of the new monarch, and cries of _Vivent les
Anglais!_ filled the air. As Mr. Hamilton resides in the house next to
the one I occupy, I had an opportunity of beholding this ovation
offered to him, and the people certainly evinced very groat enthusiasm
on the occasion.
M. Thiers, M. Mignet, Count Valeski, and Mr. Francis Raring, dined here
yesterday. M. Thiers was very brilliant and amusing. It is impossible
to meet him even once without being struck with the remarkable talent
that characterises every sentence he utters; and yet each observation
comes forth with such spirit and vivacity, that it is easy to see it
has been elicited at the moment by some remark from another, and not
from meditation.
There is a hardiness in his conceptions, and an epigrammatic terseness
in the expression of them, that command attention; and the readiness
with which he seizes, analyses, and disposes of a question, betrays
such a versatility of mental power as to convey a conviction that he is
a man who cannot fail to fill a distinguished place in France, where,
at present, abilities furnish the master-key that opens the door to
honours and fortune. M. Thiers appears to entertain a consciousness of
his talents, but does not, I really think, overrate them.
The Prince and Princess Soutzo with their family, spent yesterday with
us. Their eldest daughter, the Princess Helena, is a beautiful girl,
with captivating manners, and highly cultivated mind, and the little
Mary, though still in infancy, is one of the cleverest children I ever
saw. Never did I see young people better brought up than are the sons
and daughters of this excellent couple, or a more united family.
Mr. and Miss Poulter, and William Spencer the poet, I dined here
yesterday. Mr. Poulter is a sensible man, and his sister is well
informed and intelligent.
It is now decided that we go to England! Two years ago I should have
returned there with gladness, but now!--I dread it. How changed will
all appear without _him_ whose ever-watchful affection anticipated
every wish, and realised every hope! I ought to feel pleased at leaving
Paris, where the heaviest trial of my life has occurred, but _here_ I
have now learned to get inured to the privation of his society, while
in England I shall have again to acquire the hard lesson of
resignation.
_November_, 1830.--This is the last entry I shall make in my journal in
Paris, for to-morrow we depart for England.
I have passed the day in taking leave of those dear to me, and my
spirits have failed under the effort. Some of them I shall probably
never again behold. The dear and excellent Madame Craufurd is among
those about whom I entertain the most melancholy presentiments, because
at her advanced age I can hardly hope to find her, should I again
return to France. She referred to this to-day with streaming eyes, and
brought many a tear to mine by the sadness of her anticipations.
The Duc and Duchess de Guiche I shall soon see in England, on their
route to Edinburgh, to join tho exiled family at Holyrood, for they are
determined not to forsake them in adversity.
Adieu a Paris! two years and a half ago I entered you with gladness,
and the future looked bright; I leave you with altered feelings, for
the present is cheerless and the future clouded.
* * * * *
NOTES
[1: Now Baron d'Haussey.]
[2: The hermitage was lent him by Madame d'Epinay, to whom his
subsequent ingratitude forms a dark page in her _Mémoires_.]
[3: The present Lord Abinger.]
[4: Now Lord Glenelg.]
[5: Now Lord Francis Egerton.]
[6: Now Madame Émile de Girardin.]
[7: "Where thou beholdest Genius,
There thou beholdest, too, the martyr's crown."]
[8: The present Earl of Cadogan.]
[9: The Duc de Guiche, being _premier menin_ to the Dauphin, used,
according to custom, the arms and liveries of that prince.]
[10: Now Maréchal.]
INDEX TO THE CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
NISMES.
Antiquities of this City--The Hôtel du Midi--Articles of
Merchandise--History of the Maison Carrée--Work of Poldo d'Albenas--The
Building described--Origin of it--Now used as a Museum--Monument to
Marcus Attius--Cardinal Alberoni--Barbarous Project--Removal of
Antiquities--The Amphitheatre described--Charles Martel--Excellent
Precaution in Roman Theatres--Inscription--Officious Cicerone--Gate of
Augustus--La Tour-Magne--Excavations--Fine Fountain--Temple of
Diana--Brevity of Human Life, 1.
CHAPTER II.
TOWN OF ARLES.
Beaucaire--Wooden Houses--Castle of King René--Church of St.
Martha--Fabulous Monster--The Hôtel described--The Hostess--Antique
Furniture--Plentiful Dinner--Scrutiny--Visit to the Amphitheatre--The
Prefect of Arles--Subterranean Excavations--Ancient Church of St.
Anne--Altar to the Goddess of Good--Venus of Arles--Granite
Obelisk--Primitive Manners--A Liberal Landlady, 14.
CHAPTER III.
ST.-RÉMY.
Situation of the Town--Antiquities--The Triumphal Arch described--Male
and Female Figures--The Mausoleum--Bassi-relievi of Battles, Infantry,
etc.--Figure of a Winged Female--Latin Inscription--Variously
explained--Interpretation of Monsieur P. Malosse--Respect for the
Departed--On The Triumphal Arch and Mausoleum at St.-Remy, 21.
CHAPTER IV.
LYONS.
The _Fête Dieu_--Procession through the Streets--Ecclesiastical and
Military Pomp--Decorations in the Streets--Effect produced on the Mind
by Sacred Music--Excitements to Religious Fervour--the _Miserere_, 30.
CHAPTER V.
PARIS.
Fatiguing Journey--Landau Accident--The Hôtel de la Terrasse, in the
Rue de Rivoli--Six Years' Absence--The Duc and Duchesse de Guiche--Joy
of Meeting--Fashion at Paris--Visit to Herhault's Temple of
Fashion--Mademoiselle La Touche--Extravagant Charges--Caution to
Husbands--A Word, also, to Wives--Visit to Madame Craufurd--Her
prepossessing Appearance--House-hunting--Residence of the Maréchal
Lobau--Review in the Champ-de-Mars--Splendid _Coup d'oeil_--The
Marchioness de Loulé--Restrictions at Court--Accident to the Comte de
Bourmont--Alarm of the Ladies--Charles the Tenth, the Dauphin, and the
Dauphine--Melancholy Physiognomy of Charles the First--The Duchesse
d'Angoulème--Her Trials and Endurance--French Love of Country--The
Duchesse de Berri--Dinner at the Duchesse de Guiche's--William
Lock--The Comte de l'Espérance de l'Aigle--His high breeding--The
Opera--_Début_ of Taglioni--Her Poetical Style of Dancing--The Duc de
Cazes--French and English Manners contrasted--Attentions to the Fair
Sex in France--The Comtesses de Bellegarde--Character of the Duc de
Gramont--Lady Barbara Craufurd--Count Valeski--Anger of the Maréchal
Lobau--Defect in French Houses--The _Muette de Portici_--Noblet--An old
_Danseuse_--Gaiety at Tivoli--Similarity in the Exterior of Parisian
Ladies--A Quadrille Party--_Demi-toilette_--Late Tea-Party--Luxurious
Chair--Delightful House in the Rue de Bourbon--Its costly
Decorations--Its Interior described--The Princesse de la Moskowa--Sad
Interview--Maréchal Ney, 32.
CHAPTER VI.
Custom of letting out Furniture--The Prince and Princesse
Castelcicala--Lady Hawarden--Lady Combermere--Tone of Society at
Paris--Attentions paid by Young Men to Old Ladies--Flirtations at
Paris--Ceremonious Decorum--Comic Charles de Mornay--Parisian
Upholsterers--Rich Furniture--Lord Yarmouth--Elegant Suite of
Apartments--Charles Mills--Warm Affections between Relatives in France,
56.
CHAPTER VII.
Domestic Arrangements--Changes in Young People--Pleasant
Recollections--Lord Lilford--The Marquis and Marquise Zamperi--Comte
Alexander de Laborde--The Marquis de Mornay--Mode of passing the
Time--Evening Visits in France--Dinner-party--The Duc Dalberg--The Duc
de Mouchy--Party to Montmorency--Rousseau's Hermitage--Sensibility, a
Characteristic of Genius--Solitude--Letter of Rousseau to
Voltaire--Church, of Montmorency--Baths at Enghien--The Comtesse de
Gand--Colonel E. Lygon--The Marquis de Dreux-Brezé--Contrast between
him and the Duc de Talleyrand--The Baron and Baroness de Ruysch--Mr.
Douglas Kinnaird--Sir Francis Burdett--Colonel Leicester Stanhope--The
Marquis Palavicini--Charms of Italian Women--Lords Darnley and
Charlemont--Mr. Young, the Tragedian--Lord Lansdowne--Estimate of his
Character--Sir Robert Peel--Respect for the Memory of Sir William
Drummond--Lady Drummond--"Vivian Grey"--Mr. Standish--Intermarriages
between the French and the English, 64.
CHAPTER VIII.
Charles Kemble--His Daughter's Tragedy of "Francis the
First"--Recollections of John Kemble--The Opera--_Count Ory_--Sir A.
Barnard--Secret of Happiness--Visit to Mademoiselle Mars--Her Residence
described--Memorial of her Theatrical Career--The Duchesse de la
Force--Madame Grassini--Anecdote of her--Visit to Orsay--Its
Situation--The Princesse de Croy--Hamlet of Palaiseau--Drama of _La Pie
Voteuse_--Family of the Duc de Guiche--The Vaudeville Théâtre--Scribe's
_Avant, Pendant, el Après_--Its Dangerous Tendency--French
Ambition--Parisian Shopkeepers--Their Officious Conduct, 78.
CHAPTER IX.
Lord and Lady Stuart de Rothesay--French Politeness--Mr. D---- and Mr.
T---- --Study of Shakespeare--Attractions of Mrs. T---- --Lady
Charlotte Llndsay and the Misses Berry--Sir William Gell--Mr. and Mrs.
Hare--Female Amiability--Shopping--Hints on Female Dress--Brilliancy of
French Conversation--Mr. J. Strangways--A severe Trial--The
Plague-spot--Miraculous Escape--Dinner given by Comte A. de
Maussion--Goethe's _Faust_--Character of "Margaret"--The witty Mr.
M---- --Lord Byron--French Quickness of Apprehension--_Sept
Heures_--Character of Charlotte Corday--Degenerate Taste of the
Parisians--Hasty Conclusions, 91.
CHAPTER X.
The celebrated Dr. P---- --Society of Medical Men--Dr.
Guthrie--Requisites for a Surgeon--Celebrity and Merit--The Road to
Fortune, as related by Dr. P---- --Successful Stratagem--Fancied
Illness--Superfluity of _Embonpoint_--Mode of Treatment--Another
Patient--The Doctor à-la-mode--Mr. P. C. Scarlett--Lord Erskine--Mr.
H.B---- --Visit to the Théâtre Italien--Madame Malibran's
"Desdemona"--Defect in her Singing--The Princesse Pauline Borghese--The
Family of Napoleon--Particulars of the Duchesse d'Abrantes--The
Luxembourg Palace and Gardens--A Loving Couple--Holiness of
Marriage--Story of the Old Bachelor and his Crafty Housekeeper, 105.
CHAPTER XI.
Groups of Children in the Gardens of the Luxembourg--Joyous Sounds--The
Nurses--The Child of Noble Birth and that of the _Parvenu_--Joys of
Childhood--Contrast between Youth and Age--Meeting with Dr. P----
--Arrival of General and the Comtesse d'Orsay--Attractions of the
latter--Remark of Napoleon--Affection in Domestic Circles in
France--The Duchesse de Guiche--The Comtesse d'Orsay--The Duc de
Gramont--Madame Craufurd--The _ci-devant Jeune Homme_--Potter, the
actor--Sir Francis Burdett--Advantages of French Society--Topics of
Conversation--Pedigrees of Horses--French Politeness--Deferential
Treatment of the Fair Sex--Domestic Duties of the Duchesse do
Guiche--Influence of Courts--Visit to the Théâtre des Nouveautés--_La
Maison du Rempart_--Inflammable Exhibitions--Mr. Cuthbert and M.
Charles Lafitte--advance of Civilization--Lady Combermere--Mr. Charles
Grant (now Lord Glenelg)--Curiosity Shops on the Quai Voltaire--Madame
de Sévigné--Objects that have belonged to celebrated People--A Hint to
the Ladies--Pincushion of Madame de Maintenon--The Marquis de
Rambouillet--Molière's _Précieuses Ridicules_--Pangs of Jealousy--Julie
d'Angennes--Brilliant Coterie, 120.
CHAPTER XII.
The Marquise de Pouleprie---The celebrated Madame du
Barry--Anecdote--Mademoiselle Mars in _Valerie_--Her admirable Style
of Acting--Playing to the Galleries--Exclusive Nature of Parisian
Society--French Conversation--Quickness of Perception--Walk in
the Gardens of the Tuileries--Comparative Beauty of French and
English Ladies--Graceful Walking of the Former--Difference of
Etiquette--Well-bred Englishmen--Flight of Time--Colonel Caradoc, son
of Lord Howden--New Year's Day--Custom of making Presents--Gallery of
the Louvre--The Statues therein--Works of Art--_Chefs-d'oeuvre_ of the
Old Masters--Consolation for Men of Genius--Nicolas Poussin, 134.
CHAPTER XIII.
Visit to the Hotel d'Orsay--Sad Change in it--Mr. Millingon, the
Antiquary--Liberality of Comte d'Orsay--A Fanciful Notion--General
Or-nano--Unhappy Marriages accounted for--_La Gazza Ladra_--Mallbran's
"Ninetta"--_The Calamities of Authors_--Mr. D'Israeli--The Princesse de
Talleyrand--Her Person described--Her Dress and Manners--Amusing Story
told by the Abbé Denon--Unexpected Arrival--_Yes and No_, by Lord
Normanby--Lady Dysart-Comte Valeski--Influence of Agreeable
Manners--Effects of opposite ones--Injudicious Friends--A Candid
Admission--Lord ---- --Love of Contradiction--Remarks on the Novel of
_Pelham_--Misery of receiving stupid Books--Malibran in _La
Cenerentola_--French Customs--Proofs d'_Amilié_--Wedding Dresses, 146.
CHAPTER XIV.
Comte Charles de Mornay--His Wit and Good Nature--Mademoiselle Mars, in
_Henri III_--Some Account of the Play--Love and Ambition--Curious
Incident--Romantic Notions--Passion of Love--Wordsworth's
Poems--Admiration of his Writings--Religion displayed by the Upper
Classes--The Duc de Bordeaux--Piety of the Great--Popularity of the
Duchesse de Berri--Anecdote of her--Walter Savage Landor--His
_Imaginary Conversations_--Sir William Gell--The Duc d'Orléans--His
Enviable Situation--The Duc de Chartres--Genius of Shelley--Beauty of
his Writings--His Wild Theories--William Spencer the Poet--Melancholy
Change in Him--French Prejudices towards the English--Example of
it--Accomplishments of French Ladies--Talent for Conversation, 169.
CHAPTER XV.
Consequences of the Revolution in France--Corruption of the
Regency--Sarcastic Verses of St.-Evremond--Reign of Louis the
Fifteenth--Lessons taught by Affliction--Dangers of Anarchy--The _Haute
Noblesse_ previously to the Revolution--Want of Affection between
Parents and Children--Superficial Judgments erroneous--Power of
Fashion--The Novel of _Devereux_--Infrequency of Elopements in
France--Les Dames de B---- --Their Attachment to each other--Old
Maids--Servitude in England and France contrasted--French Masters and
Mistresses--Treatment of Servants--Avoidance of Politics--French
Discontent--Charles the Tenth--National Prosperity--The Duchesse de
Guiche and her two Sons--Position of the Duc de Guiche, 171.
CHAPTER XVI.
Approach of Spring--Fogs on the Seine--The Jardins des
Tuileries--Impurity of the London Atmosphere--Exhilaration of the
Spirits--Anecdote--The Catholic Question--Lord Rosslyn--The Duke of
Wellington--Merits of a Cook--_Amour-propre_ of a Parisian
Cook--English Sauce--A Gourmand and an Epicure--The Duc de
Talleyrand--A perfect Dinner--The Marquis de L---- --House-hunting
again--Letter from Lord B---- --The Hôtel Monaco--College of
St.-Barbe--The Duchesse de Guiche and her Sons--A Mother's
Triumph--Spirit of Emulation--The Quarter called the Pays Latin--An
Author's Dress--Aspect of the Women--A Life of Study--Amable Tastu's
Poems--Effect of Living much in Society--Mr. W. Spencer--His
Abstraction--Disadvantages of Civilization--Confession of Madame de
---- --A Hint to Comte ---- on visiting London--Suspicion of Poverty--A
_Diner Maigre_--Luxurious Bishops, 182.
CHAPTER XVII.
Romantic Feelings of Lady C---- --True Love--Disagreeable
Neighbours--Credulity--Mademoiselle Delphine Gay--French Novels--French
Critics--Eligible Mansions--Comforts of Seclusion--Genius of
L.E.L.--The Comtesse d'O---- --A Brilliant Talker--Letter from
Mrs. Hare--Extreme Hospitality--Longchamps--Exhibition of
Spring Fashions--French Beauties--Animated Scene--Promenade at
Longchamps--Extravagance of Mademoiselle Duthé--Modern Morals--_Cinq
Mars_, by Comte Alfred de Vigny--His Style--Strictures on Mankind--The
best Philosophy--Speech of Lord Grey--The Caterpillar--A Voracious
Appetite--A Refined Lady--_La Chronique du temps de Charles
IX_, by Prosper Merimée--Estimation of Sir Walter Scott--Jules
Janin--Injudicious Praise--Renewal of Youth--Self-Deception--Grey
Hairs, 194.
CHAPTER XVIII.
Victor Hugo's _Dernier Jour d'un Condamné_--Value of Common
Sense--Conscience--Cunning--Curiosity Shops on the Quai
d'Orsay--Expensive and Tasteful Gifts--An Avaricious Vender--A
Moral--Anonymous Scribbler--Weakness of Mind--Poems of Mrs. Hemans--The
Minds of Genius--Poetesses of England--Arrival of Lord D---- --The
Catholic Question carried--Irish prejudices--Letters from Absent
Friends--Sir William Gell--The Archbishop of Tarentum--Discoveries at
Pompeii--Novel of _The Disowned_--Advantages to be derived from the
Perusal of Works of Fiction--Politics--Charles the Tenth
unpopular--Charles the First--The House of Bourbon--"Uneasy lies the
Head that wears a Crown"--The Duc de T---- --Mr. Hook's _Sayings and
Doings_--_Visit to the Hotel Monaco_, 207.
CHAPTER XIX.
A new Resilience--Consolation in Sickness--House in the Rue de
Matignon--Its Interior described--The Library--Drive in the Bois de
Boulogne--Atmospheric Influence--The Rocher de Cancale--A _Diner de
Restaurant--_A Gay Sight--Good Taste in Dress innate in
Frenchwomen--Well-appointed Carriages--Soldier-like Air of the Male
Population--Observation of the Emperor Napoleon--Characteristics of the
British Soldier--National Anthem--Changes in the Journey of
Life--Captain Marryat's _Naval Officer_--Performance of _La Tour
d'Auvergne_--Letter of Carnot--Distinction awarded to Merit by
Napoleon--National Glory--Effect of Enthusiasm--Villa of the Duchesse
de Montmorency--Residences on the Banks of the Thames--Bagatelle, the
Seat of the Duc de Bordeaux--Earthly Happiness--Domestic
Alterations--High Rents at Paris--Terrace and Aviary--Unsettled Slate,
219.
CHAPTER XX.
Unexpected Events--Mr. and Mrs. Mathews--Their son, Charles--Evening
Party--Recitations and Songs--Pleasant Recollections--Visit
to the _Jardin des Plantes_--Amusing Incident--Humorous
Imitations--Intellectual Powers--Recourse to Reading--The Comte
Montalembert--His Grief on the Death of his Daughter--Restraint
imposed by Society--Fate of the Unfortunate--The Prince and Princess
Soutzo--Particulars relative to them--Reverse of Fortune--Mr. Rogers
and Mr. Luttrell--Memory of Lord Byron--His Lampoon on Rogers--Love
of Sarcasm--Conversation of Mr. Luttrell--Lord John Russell--His
Qualifications--Monsieur Thiers--Monsieur Mignet--His Vigorous
Writings--Friendship between Thiers and Mignet--The Baron
Cailleux--Visit to the Louvre--Taste for the Fine Arts--The Marquis
and Marquise de B---- --Clever People--Lord Allen and Sir Andrew
Barnard--The Culinary Art, 230.
CHAPTER XXI.
Mr. Rogers and Mr. Luttrell--Society of Refined Englishmen--Mercurial
Temperament of the French--Opposite Characters--M. Erard's Collection
of Pictures--Antique _Bijouterie_--Lord Pembroke--The Duke of
Hamilton--Dr. Parr--Reproof of the Duc de Blacas--Monsieur Mignet--His
great Knowledge--A Clever Man--Influence of Conscience--Abilities of
Lord Palmerston--Lord Castlereagh--His Uncle, the late Marquess of
Londonderry--Dangers of Fashion--Mr. Cutlar Fergusson--The Baron and
Baroness de Ruysch--A Mind at Ease--Dreary Weather--Sad State of the
Streets--Fogs--Fascination of Madame Grassini--Sledge Party--Sledge of
the Duc de Guiche--That of Comte d'Orsay--Picturesque Night
Scene--Revival of an Old Fashion--The Prince Polignac--His Amiable
Manners--His Difficult Position, 242.
CHAPTER XXII.
Effects of Indisposition--Instability of Earthly Blessings--Captain
William Anson (Brother of Lord Anson)--His varied Acquirements--The
pretty Madame de la H---- --Prince Paul Lieven--Captain Cadogan (now
Earl Cadogan)--Life at Sea--Visit to the Duchesse de Guiche--Her
Warmth and Gentleness of Manner--Political Crisis--The Conquest of
Algiers--General Excelmans--Rash Measure--Charles the Tenth--His
Ministry unpopular--Prosperity of France--Extorted Concessions--
Dissolution of the Chambers--The Public Press--Controversy--Commotion
before the Hôtel of the Ministre des Finances--The Ministers
insulted--Counsel of the Duc de Guiche--Serious Aspect of
Affairs--Crowds in the Streets--Household of Charles the
Tenth--Noblesse of his Court--Confusion and Alarm--Riotous
Conduct--Firing on the People--Formation of Barricades--Absence of the
Civil Authorities--Nocturnal Impressions--Comtes d'Orsay and
Valeski--Scene in the Place de la Bourse--The Corps-de-Garde set on
Fire--Darkness in the Rue Richelleu.--Further disturbances--Continued
Depredations--Breach between the People and the Sovereign--Anecdote of
Monsieur Salvandy, 225.
CHAPTER XXIII.
The Dead paraded through the Streets to inflame the Populace--The
Shops closed--The Duc de Raguse censured--His Supineness--Devotion
of the Duc de Guiche to his Sovereign--The Military Dispositions
defective--Flag of the Bourbons--Troops in Want of Refreshment--
Destruction of the Royal Emblems--Disgusting Exhibition--Rumours
of Fresh Disasters--Opinion of Sir Roger de Coverley--Revolutions
the Carnivals of History--Observation of Voltaire--Doctors
Pasquier and de Guise--Report of Fire arms--Paucity of
Provisions--Female Courage--Domestic Entrenchment--Further
Hostilities--Conflicting Rumours--The Sublime and the
Ridiculous--Juvenal Intrepidity--Fatality--The Soldiers and
the populace--Visit to Madame Craufurd--Barricade in the Rue
Verte--Approaching Mob--Safe Arrival in the Rue d'Anjou--Terror of
Madame Craufurd--Her Anxiety for her Relatives--Composure of the
Marquis d'Aligre--Riotous Assembly in the Rue Verte--Their Conduct
towards the Author--Dangerous Symbol of Aristocracy--Arrival at
Home, 282.
CHAPTER XXIV.
Familiarity of French Servants--Power of the People--Misguided
Men--Further Rumours--Who are the People?--An Intruder--A Revolutionary
Hero--The Tuileries and the Louvre taken--Sir Thomas Lawrence's
Portrait of the Dauphin--The Terrible and the Comic--Trophies of
Victory--The Palace of the Archbishop of Paris sacked--Concessions of
Charles the Tenth--The Duchesse de Berri--Lord Stuart de
Rothesay--Noble Conduct--The Duchesse de Guiche--Her trying
Situation--The Provisional Government--The Tri-coloured Flag--Meeting
of the Deputies--Bitter Feeling towards the Royal Family Bravery of the
Populace--Lafayette and his followers--Scene in the Street--"The Good
Cause"--The wealthy M. Laffitte--Valuable Collections at
Paris--Courageous Conduct of the Duchesse de Guiche--Her
Champions--Attack on the Hôtel of the Duc de Guiche--Comte Alfred
d'Orsay--Painful Position, 272.
CHAPTER XXV.
Sanctuary of Home--Madame C---- --Intoxicated Revolutionist--His
Good-Nature--the Proprietor of a Wine-Shop--Politeness of all Classes
in France--Barracks in the Rue Verte--Difficulty of obtaining
Admission--Agitation of Madame C---- --Comte Valeski--The Barracks
attacked and taken--Dangerous Route--Impassable Gulf between the
Sovereign and the People--The Royal Cause hopeless--A Fine Youth
killed--Reflections on his Death--Number of Persons killed during
the last Three Days--Details of a Battle--Rumour respecting
the Dauphin--Interment of the Page--Fatality attending the
Bourbons--Absence of the Dauphine--Revolt of the Troops--The Duchesse
de Guiche at St.-Germain--Her noble Bearing--The Duc de Gramont--The
Château du Val, the Residence of the Princesse de Poix--The Fugitive
Duchess--Popularity of Lafayette--The duc d'Orléans named
Lieut.-General of France--Order restored--Abdication of Charles the
Tenth--Renewed Excitement--Clamour against the King--A Fickle
People--Wicked Rumours--The King quits Rambouillet--School of
Adversity--Desertion by Friends--Route to Cherbourg, 294.
CHAPTER XXVI.
Rumour relative to the Son of Napoleon--Unsettled State of
Affairs--Conflicting Rumours--The Duke of Orleans--Charms of a
Crown--Aspect of the Champs-Elysées--Unsought popularity--Comte
d'Orsay--Scene of Destruction--Shattered Trees--Pride of the
People--Re-action after Excitement--Anecdote--The Jeweller's
Wife--Passion of the French--Playing at Soldiers--Enthusiasm
of the _Garde Nationale_--Return to Paris of the Duchesse de
Guiche--Confidence of the Duc--Courage of the Duchesse--General
Gèrard--The Duke of Orleans accepts the Crown--Popularity, an
unstable Possession--Abilities of Louis-Philippe--Expectations
formed of him--Person of Lafayette--Appearance in Public of
the new Sovereign--The Queen--Her painful Position--The King
of the French in the Place Vendôme--Monsieur Mignet--His
varied Acquirements--The celebrated General Peppé--Strange
Infatuation--Charles the Tenth embarks at Cherbourg--Devotion
to the exiled Bourbons--The English Popular at Paris--Mr.
Hamilton, Secretary of the Embassy--Brilliant conversation of
M. Thiers--The Prince and Princesse Soutzo--Mr. Poulter--Lesson
of Resignation--Departure for England--Leave-taking--Adieu to
Paris, 294.