CHAPTER XXIII.

All now seems quiet, so I will go to bed. Heaven only knows if

to-morrow night we may be allowed to seek our pillows in safety.

_28th_.--My _femme-de-chambre_ undrew my curtains this morning, "with

such a face--so faint, so spiritless, so dull, so dead in look, so

woe-begone"--proclaiming that barricades had been erected during the

night, and that the bodies of those killed in the encounter yesterday

have been paraded through the streets in order to excite still more the

angry feelings of the people. This last measure reminds one of the

appalling exhibitions in the fearful and memorable Revolution of former

days; and the reminiscences it awakens are not calculated to

tranquillize the mind.

She states that the shops are all closed, and that no provisions can be

obtained; the cook complains that his stockpots want replenishing; and

the _femme de charge_ hints that the larder is not so well supplied as

it would have been had she known what was to occur. Each and all of

these functionaries seem wholly occupied by the dread of not being able

to furnish us with as copious repasts as usual, unmindful that a mighty

throne is tottering to its foundation, and that a struggle is going on

in which many lives may be sacrificed.

The Duc de Raguse has incurred great blame for his intercourse with the

supposed leaders of the Revolution. This conduct has had the effect of

destroying the confidence of the troops in their chief, and of

weakening their attachment to the cause they were to support. The

Maréchal was the Commandant appointed by the King, and as such, bound

to treat as rebels those who opposed themselves to his government;

instead of which, he seemed more like the _confident_ of a party who,

it is alleged, owe their victory to his supineness.

The Duc de Guiche has not left his post, near the royal family, since

the 26th, except to pass and repass with instructions from the King to

the Duc de Raguse, twice or thrice a-day. He has been repeatedly

recognised by the people, though in plain clothes, and experienced at

their hands the respect so well merited by his honourable conduct and

devotion to his sovereign. How often have I heard this noble-minded man

censured for encouraging the liberal sentiments of the Dauphin; and

heard this, too, from some of those who are now the first to desert

Charles the Tenth in the emergency which is the result of the system

they advocated!

---- has been here; he tells me that to Marshal Marmont the king has

confided unlimited power, and that Paris has been declared in a state

of siege.

He says that the military dispositions are so defective, that there is

not a young officer in the army capable of committing a similar

mistake. The regiments are crowded into narrow streets, in which even

children may become dangerous enemies, by throwing from the windows

every missile within their reach on the heads of the soldiers. He is of

opinion that, in twenty-four hours, the populace will be in possession

of Paris. The tri-coloured flag is now floating from the towers of

Notre-Dame; while the white flag of the luckless Bourbons, as often

stained by the faithlessness of its followers, as by the blood of its

foes, still waves from the column of the Place Vendôme,--that column

erected to commemorate the glory of the great chief now calmly sleeping

in his ocean-washed grave.

The civil authorities seem paralyzed: the troops have been twelve hours

on duly without any refreshment, except that afforded by the humanity

of the people, who have brought them wine and bread; can it be hoped

that these same soldiers will turn their arms against those who have

supplied their necessities?

The royal emblems are destroyed wherever they are found, and the bust

of the king has been trampled on. The disgusting exhibition of the dead

bodies has had the bad effect calculated upon, and all is tumult and

disorder. Every one wonders where are the authorities, and why a

sufficient military force does not appear, for there has been ample

time, since the disposition to insurrection manifested by the people,

to assemble the troops.

Every visitor, and, notwithstanding the disturbed state of Paris, we

have already had several to-day, announces some fresh disaster, each

representing it according to the political creed to which he adheres.

The Royalists assert that the outbreak is the result of a long and

grave conspiracy, fomented by those who expect to derive advantage from

it; while the Liberals maintain that it has arisen spontaneously and

simultaneously from the wounded spirit of liberty, lashed into a

frenzied resistance by the ordonnances. I pretend not to know which of

these statements is the most correct; but I believe that the favourite

opinion of the worthy Sir Roger de Coverley, that "much could be said

on both sides of the question," might now fairly be urged; for,

according to the march of events, it is but too probable that the

melodrama now enacting before our eyes has not been an impromptu; and

it is quite clear that the ordonnances have furnished the occasion, and

the excuse (if such were required), for the performance.

Well might a great Italian writer pronounce revolutions to be the

carnivals of history. This one seems to be not only a carnival but

Saturnalia, for the ebriety of the slaves of liberty is well calculated

to disgust the friends; and those who witness this intoxication are

reminded of the observation of Voltaire, that "_Les Français goûtent de

la liberté comme des liqueurs fortes avec lesquelles ils s'enivrent."_

A revolution affected by physical instead of moral force, is a grave

wound inflicted on social order and civilization--a wound which it

takes ages to heal.

When on the point of sitting down to our _déjeûner a la fourchette_

(for people will eat while thrones are crumbling), repeated knockings,

at the _porte-cochère_ induced us to look from the window in order to

see who the persons were who thus loudly demanded admittance, when it

was discovered that they were Doctors Pasquier and De Guise. They had

been dressing the wounded at the hospital in the Faubourg du Roule, and

finding on their return that the Champs-Élysées and Rue St.-Honoré were

the scenes of combat, had bethought themselves of our vicinity, and

sought shelter. When our unexpected visitants, deeming themselves

fortunate in having found a refuge, prepared to join our repast, it was

ludicrous to observe the lengthened faces of our servants at this

addition to our party. They, having previously lamented the paucity of

provisions in the larder, and being aware of the difficulty, if not

impossibility, of procuring a further supply, looked on the new-comers

as interlopers, who would inevitably diminish the already too limited

stock.

We had not been seated above five minutes at table, when the report of

fire-arms announced that hostilities were renewed, and we hurried to

the drawing-room to observe what was going on. The servants looked as

if they rather enjoyed the interruption to the morning's meal, thinking

no doubt that it would preserve the provisions, now so precious in

their eyes, and they prepared to remove the viands with unusual

alacrity; but their visages lengthened when told to let them remain on

the table, and became still longer when we shortly after resumed our

places at the board.

An Englishwoman, in the kitchen establishment, has just performed a

feat that has elevated her into a heroine in the eyes of the rest of

the servants. Finding the larder not sufficiently supplied, she sallied

forth into the street, passed through the Rue St.-Honoré, while the

fighting was going on, and returned bearing a basket of meat, obtained

certainly at the risk of her life, as shots were flying around her. As

none of the men offered to undertake this action, she is now considered

little less than an amazon, and her _amour-propre_ being excited by the

commendations bestowed on her courage, she declares that she will go

forth for all that may be required, as she despises fear.

We have now entrenched ourselves in the front drawing-rooms, with the

external shutters, which are stuffed to exclude noise, closed, but

which we open occasionally, in order to see what is going on. Sitting

in darkness, with the sound of firing, and the shouts of the people,

continually in our ears, I can hardly bring myself to think that all

that is now passing is not a dream.

The populace, ten minutes ago, rushed from the Rue St.-Honoré towards

the Champs-Élysées, assailing the troops stationed in the latter place;

and were in turn assailed by these last, and forced to retreat to the

Rue St.-Honoré. The scene was one of the utmost confusion.

The firing is going on; stragglers are rushing to and fro; a body of

troops are stationed at the bottom of this street, and some pieces of

cannon have been placed. A thousand rumours are afloat, each more

improbable than the other. One moment it is announced that several

regiments have fraternized with the people; another, that the royal

family have fled to Belgium; the next, that Paris is to be fired by the

insurgents; but it would be impossible to repeat one-half the wild

rumours in circulation.

There is a mixture of the sublime and of the ridiculous in the scenes

now passing before my eyes that is quite extraordinary. Looking from my

window, twenty minutes ago, I saw a troop of boys, amounting to about

fifty, the eldest of whom could not be more than ten or eleven years

old, and some who appeared under that age, march through our streets,

with wooden swords, and lances pointed with sharp nails, flags flying,

and crying, "_Vive la charte! Vive la liberté_!" The gravity and

intrepidity of these _gamins de Paris_ would, at any other period, have

elicited a smile; but now, this demonstration on the part of mere

children creates the reflection of how profound and general must be the

sympathy enlisted against the government and the sovereign in the

hearts of the people.

Many are those who, like their children, shout "_Vive la charte!_" and

"_Vive, la liberté!_" who are as ignorant of the true sense and value

of both as they are. Well might the victim, when being led to execution

in the days of the past revolution in France, exclaim, "O Liberty, what

crimes are committed in thy name!"

One of our servants has this moment informal me that the children,

whose warlike demeanour I was disposed to smile at an hour ago, have

rendered (_not_ the state, but the popular cause) some service. The

troops, more amused than surprised at the appearance of these mimic

soldiers, suffered them to approach closer than prudence warranted, and

the urchins, rushing among the horses, wounded several of the poor

animals severely, and effected their retreat before the soldiers were

aware of what had occurred.

A fatality seems to prevail in the preset crisis that is little less

than marvellous. A want of provisions for the troops is now added to

the catalogue of excitements against the cause of royalty. Harassed by

the repeated attacks of the populace, and exhausted by long exposure to

the intense heat of a burning sun, they are little prone to consider as

enemies those who approach them with food to allay the pangs of hunger,

and drink to cool their scorching thirst. ----, and others who have

mingled with the crowd, tell me that they have beheld repeated examples

of soldiers throwing down their arms, to embrace those who came to

seduce them with the most irresistible of all seductions--refreshment,

when they were nearly exhausted by the want of it.

I shall begin to consider myself half a heroine, after an exploit I

performed this evening. The men who shared our dinner having gone out

to observe what was passing, I determined, _coûte que coûte_, to pay a

visit to my friend Madame Craufurd. I attired myself as simply as

possible, and, attended by a _valet de pied_, sallied forth. Having

traversed the short distance that separates this house from the Rue

St.-Honoré, I arrived at the barricade erected in front of the entrance

to the Rue Verte, and I confess this obstacle seemed to me, for the

first minute or two that I contemplated it, insurmountable. My servant,

too, expressed his belief of the difficulty, if not impossibility, of

climbing over this mountain of loose stones, that I felt half disposed

to retrace my steps.

The shouts of a mob approaching along the Rue St.-Honoré quickly

decided me on the course to pursue; I clambered up as best I could, not

without considerable risk; nor was the danger and difficulty of the

descent on the other side of this rude pyramid less imminent. The

evening was more sultry than I ever experienced an evening to be, even

in Italy; the houses were all closed, the streets deserted, except when

a few occasional stragglers rushed along, glancing at me with surprise,

and uttering their comments on my courage. Now and then a dog ran by,

with a terrified air and drooping tail, keeping close to the houses as

if for protection. One might have fancied oneself in some city ravaged

by the plague, and the burning heat of the atmosphere, and lurid red of

the clouds, might have strengthened the notion.

It more than once occurred to me how singular it was for me, a woman

and a stranger, to find myself with only one attendant in the streets,

on foot, in a city declared to be in a state of siege, and with the

noise of firing in the distance, and the shouts of the populace,

continually breaking on my ears.

Having passed the Rue de la Ville-l'Évêque, and entered the Rue

d'Anjou, I soon reached the _porte-cochère_ of my friend. My servant

knocked, and very loudly, but before the Swiss porter would open the

door, he reconnoitred from the window in the _entresol_ of his lodge.

He could hardly credit his eyes when he saw me; and while he unbolted

and unchained the door, an operation which took him more time than I

thought necessary, I could hear him muttering that, "_Les dames

Anglaises n'ont peur de rien, positivement rien_." I was not sorry when

I heard the massive door closed after me, with its bolts and chains

again secured; but, as I crossed the courtyard, the different aspect of

the house, with its closed windows, reminded me so forcibly of the

change that had occurred since my last visit, only three days

previously, that I felt more agitated than while traversing the

streets.

When I entered the drawing-room, in which a large circle were

assembled, Madame Craufurd, though the servants announced my name,

could hardly believe I was indeed come. She wept bitterly while

embracing me, and observed on the hardship of a person so aged as

herself being called on to witness two revolutions. All the horrors of

the first are recalled vividly to her mind, and her terror of what may

occur is proportioned to what she remembers to have formerly taken

place. Nothing seemed to pacify her terror so much as the fact of my

having been permitted to pass unmolested to her house, though she

considered me little less than insane to have undertaken the task.

"For myself," said Madame C----, "I have little fear (though her

blanched cheek and trembling hand told another story); but for those

dearer to me than life, what have I not to dread? You who know the

chivalrous sentiments of the Duc de Guiche, and the attachment

entertained by him and my granddaughter for the royal family, will

understand how much I have to dread for them from the vengeance which

their devotion to their sovereign may draw on their heads. _They_ are

not, as you are aware, time-servers, like so many others, who will

desert their king in his hour of need. No; they will brave death, I am

assured, rather than forsake in adversity those whose prosperity they

shared."

The marquis d'Aligre, one of, it not the, richest landed proprietors in

France, was among the circle at Madame Craufurd's, and evinced no

little composure and courage in the circumstances in which we found

ourselves. He joined me in endeavouring to soothe her fears; and

probably the fact of his having so immense a stake to risk in the

crisis now taking place, added not a little weight to the arguments he

urged to quiet her alarms. When people have so much to lose, their

calmness has an imposing effect; and the rhetoric of the most

accomplished orator would have probably been less successful than was

the composed manner of the marquis d'Aligre, in restoring the wonted

courage of our amiable hostess.

When I rose to take leave, Madame C---- tried all her efforts to

persuade me to remain to sleep at her house, and I had no little

difficulty to escape from her importunity. She would fain send all her

men servants to escort me home, and the Marquis d'Aligre also

pressingly offered his services; but I was obstinate in my refusal to

allow anyone to accompany me, being convinced that there was even less

danger in proceeding with a single servant than more numerously

attended. I tore myself from the embraces of Madame C----, whose tears

flowed afresh, and bedewed my cheeks, and I once more passed through

the court-yard, followed to the porter's lodge by the _dames de

compagnie, femmes de chambre_, and _valets de chambre_, wondering at my

courage, offering up their prayers for my safety, and proclaiming that

only an Englishwoman would have faced such danger. The old Swiss porter

would not risk opening the gate until he had assured himself, from the

window, that the coast was clear, and closed it so rapidly when I had

passed it as almost to have endangered my heels.

On returning, I found a cord drawn across the street in front of the

barrack in the Rue Verte, and some forty or fifty ill-dressed and

riotous men assembled, half-a-dozen of whom held the cord. Having

approached close to it, I paused, and, looking calmly at those who held

it, I appealed by looks to their politeness. Some of them laughed

aloud, and asked me if I could not leap over the barrier that impeded

my progress, drawing the rope still higher while they spoke. I

answered, though I trembled at being exposed to their rude mirth, and

still more rude gaze, "That I felt sure Frenchmen would not compel me

to such an unfeminine exertion, or give me cause to tell my compatriots

when I returned to England that deference to women no longer existed in

France."

"Let her pass! let her pass!" exclaimed nearly all the voices of the

group; "she is courageous, and she speaks rightly, _Vivent les

Anglaises! Vivent les Anglaises!_" and the cord was instantly lowered

to the ground, and I hastily stepped over it, glad to get out of

hearing of the rough compliments bestowed on me.

My servant had attempted to address them before I spoke, but they one

and all assailed him with a torrent of reproach, demanding if he was

not ashamed to wear a livery, the badge of servitude, when all his

countrymen were fighting for their liberty. I had again to clamber over

the barricade, assisted by my servant, and, before I could cross the

Rue St.-Honoré, encountered various groups of men rushing along, all of

whom uttered such invectives against my footman that I determined not

again to go out attended by this symbol of aristocracy.

On reaching my home, the porter observed, with a self-complacency his

prudence could not conceal, that he "knew Madame la Comtesse had

nothing to dread from the people, they were brave and _bons enfans_,

and would not injure a lady;"--a commendation that clearly indicated

the state of his feelings.

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