CHAPTER VIII.

Charles Kemble dined here yesterday, and in the evening read to us his

daughter Fanny's Tragedy of _Francis the First_--a very wonderful

production for so young a girl. There is considerable vigour in many

parts of this work, and several passages in it reminded me of the old

dramatists. The character of "Louisa of Savoy" is forcibly

drawn--wonderfully so, indeed, when considered as the production of so

youthful a person. The constant association with minds deeply imbued

with a love of the old writers, must have greatly influenced the taste

of Miss Kemble.

_Francis the First_ bears irrefragable evidence that her reading has

lain much among the old poets, and that Shakspeare is one of her most

favourite ones. "Triboulet," the king's jester, may be instanced as an

example of this; and "Margaret of Valois" furnishes another. "Françoise

de Foix" is a more original conception; timid, yet fond, sacrificing

her honour to save her brother's life, but rendered wretched by

remorse; and not able to endure the presence of her affianced husband,

who, believing her pure and sinless as he left her, appeals to her,

when "Gonzales" reveals her shame.

This same "Gonzales," urged on by vengeance, and ready to do

aught--nay, more than "may become a man,"--to seek its gratification,

is a boldly drawn character.

The introduction of the poet "Clément Marot" is no less happy than

judicious; and Miss Kemble gives him a very beautiful speech, addressed

to his master "Francis the First," in which the charm that reigns about

the presence of a pure woman is so eloquently described, as to have

reminded me of the exquisite passage in _Comus_, although there is not

any plagiary in Miss Kemble's speech.

A poetess herself, she has rendered justice to the character of Clement

Marot, whose honest indignation at being employed to bear a letter from

the amorous "Francis" to the sister of "Lautrec," she has very

gracefully painted.

The "Constable Bourbon" is well drawn, and has some fine speeches

assigned to him; and "Gonzales" gives a spirited description of the

difference between encountering death in the battle-field, surrounded

by all the spirit-stirring "pomp and circumstance of glorious war," and

meeting the grisly tyrant on the scaffold, attended by all the

ignominious accessories of a traitor's doom.

This Tragedy, when given to the public, will establish Miss Kemble's

claims to distinction in the literary world, and add another laurel to

those acquired by her family.

There are certain passages in the speeches of "Gonzales," that, in my

opinion, require to be revised, lest they should provoke censures from

the fastidious critics of the present time, who are prone to detect

evil of which the authors, whose works they analyse, are quite

unconscious. Innocence sometimes leads young writers to a freedom of

expression from which experienced ones would shrink back in alarm; and

the perusal of the old dramatists gives a knowledge of passions, and of

sins, known only through their medium, but the skilful developement of

which, subjects a female writer, and more particularly a youthful one,

to ungenerous animadversion. It is to be hoped, that the friends of

this gifted girl will so prune the luxuriance of her pen, as to leave

nothing to detract from a work so creditable to her genius.

Charles Kemble rendered ample justice to his daughter's Tragedy by his

mode of reading it; and we counted not the hours devoted to the task.

How many reminiscences of the olden time were called up by hearing him!

I remembered those pleasant evenings when he used to read to us in

London, hour after hour, until the timepiece warned us to give over. I

remembered, too, John Kemble--"the great John Kemble," as Lord

Guildford used to call him--twice or thrice reading to us with Sir T.

Lawrence; and the tones of Charles Kemble's voice, and the expression

of his face, forcibly reminded me of our departed friend.

I have scarcely met with a more high-bred man, or a more agreeable

companion, than Charles Kemble. Indeed, were I called on to name the

professional men I have known most distinguished for good breeding and

manners, I should name our four tragedians,--the two Kembles, Young,

and Macready.

Sir Francis Burdett dined here yesterday _en famille_, and we passed

two very pleasant hours. He related to us many amusing and interesting

anecdotes connected with his political life.

Went to the Opera in the evening, whither he accompanied us. I like my

box very much. It is in the centre of the house, is draped with pale

blue silk, and has very comfortable chairs. The Parisians are, I find,

as addicted to staring as the English; for many were the glasses

levelled last night at Sir Francis Burdett who, totally unconscious of

the attention he excited, was wholly engrossed by the "Count Ory," some

of the choruses in which pleased me very much.

A visit to-day from our excellent and valued friend, Sir A. Barnard,

who has promised to dine with us to-morrow. Paris is now filling very

fast, which I regret, as I dislike crowds and having my time broken in

upon.

I become more convinced every day I live, that quiet and repose are the

secrets of happiness, for I never feel so near an approach to this

blessing as when in the possession of them. General society is a heavy

tax on time and patience, and one that I feel every year less

inclination to pay, as I witness the bad effect it produces not only on

the habits but on the mind.

Oh! the weariness of listening for hours to the repetition of past

gaieties, or the anticipation of future ones, to the commonplace

remarks or stupid conversation of persons whose whole thoughts are

engrossed by the frivolous amusements of Paris, which are all and every

thing to them!

How delicious is it to shut out all this weariness, and with a book, or

a few rationally minded friends, indulge in an interchange of ideas!

But the too frequent indulgence of this sensible mode of existence

exposes one to the sarcasms of the frivolous who are avoided.

One is deemed a pedant--a terrible charge at Paris!--or a _bas bleu_,

which is still worse, however free the individual may be from any

pretensions to merit such charges.

Paid a visit to the justly celebrated Mademoiselle Mars yesterday, at

her beautiful hôtel in the Rue de la Tour des Dames. I have entertained

a wish ever since my return from Italy, to become acquainted with this

remarkable woman; and Mr. Young was the medium of accomplishing it.

Mademoiselle Mars is even more attractive off the stage than on; for

her countenance beams with intelligence, and her manners are at once so

animated, yet gentle; so kind, yet dignified; and there is such an

inexpressible charm in the tones of her voice, that no one can approach

without being delighted with her.

Her conversation is highly interesting, marked by a good sense and good

taste that render her knowledge always available, but never obtrusive.

Her features are regular and delicate; her figure, though inclined to

_embonpoint_, is very graceful, and her smile, like the tones of her

voice, is irresistibly sweet, and reveals teeth of rare beauty.

Mademoiselle Mars, off the stage, owes none of her attractions to the

artful aid of ornament; wearing her own dark hair simply arranged, and

her clear brown complexion free from any artificial tinge. In her air

and manner is the rare and happy mixture of _la grande dame et la femme

aimable_, without the slightest shade of affectation.

Mademoiselle Mars' hôtel is the prettiest imaginable. It stands in a

court yard, wholly shut in from the street; and, though not vast, it

has all the elegance, if not the splendour, of a fine house. Nothing

can evince a purer taste than this dwelling, with its decorations and

furniture. It contains all that elegance and comfort can require,

without any thing meretricious or gaudy, and is a temple worthy of the

goddess to whom it is dedicated.

It has been well observed, that a just notion of the character of a

person can always be formed by the style of his or her dwelling. Who

can be deceived in the house of a _nouveau riche_? Every piece of

furniture in it vouches, not only for the wealth of its owner, but that

he has not yet got sufficiently habituated to the possession of it, to

be as indifferent to its attributes as are those to whom custom has

rendered splendour no longer a pleasure.

Every thing in the house of Mademoiselle Mars bespeaks its mistress to

be a woman of highly cultivated mind and of refined habits.

The boudoir is in the style of Louis XIV, and owes its tasteful

decorations to the pencil of Ciceri. The pictures that ornament it are

by Gérard, and are highly creditable to his reputation. The library

serves also as a picture-gallery; and in it may be seen beautiful

specimens of the talents of the most esteemed French artists, offered

by them as a homage to this celebrated woman. Gérard, Delacroix,

Isabey, Lany, Grévedon, and other distinguished artists, have

contributed to this valuable collection. A fine portrait of Madame

Pasta, and another of Talma, with two exquisite pictures of the mother

of Mademoiselle Mars, not less remarkable for the rare beauty of the

subject than for the merit of the artists, complete it.

One book-case in the library contains only the presentation copies of

the pieces in which Mademoiselle Mars has performed, magnificently

bound by the authors.

On a white marble _console_ in this gallery is placed an interesting

memorial of her brilliant theatrical career, presented to her by the

most enthusiastic of its numerous admirers. It consists of a laurel

crown, executed in pure gold; on the leaves of which are engraved on

one side, the name of each piece in which she appeared, and, on the

other, the _rôle_ which she acted in it. A very fine statue of Molière

is placed in this apartment.

Never did two hours glide more rapidly away than those passed in the

society of this fascinating woman, whose presence I left penetrated

with the conviction that no one can know without admiring her; and that

when she retires from the stage, "we shall not look upon her like

again."

Passed a very agreeable evening, at Madame Craufurd's, Met there la

Duchesse de la Force, and the usual circle of _habitués_. Talking of

theatres, some of _la Vieille Cour_, who happened to be present,

remarked on the distinction always made between the female performers

of the different ones. Those of the Théâtre Français were styled "_Les

Dames de la Comédie Française_"; "those of the Théâtre Italien," "_Les

Demoiselles du Théâtre Italien_;" and the dancers, "_Les Filles de

l'Opéra_." This last mode of naming _les danseuses_, though in later

times considered as a reproach, was, originally, meant as an honourable

distinction; the king, on establishing the _Académie Royale de

Musique_, having obtained the privilege that the performers attached to

it should be exempt from excommunication. Hence they were named, "_Les

Filles de l'Opéra_," as persons sometimes said "_Les Filles de la

Reine_."

_À propos_ of the Opera, Madame Grassini, once no less celebrated for

her beauty than for her voice, was of the party last night. She is, and

deservedly, a general favourite in Parisian society, in which her

vivacity, good-nature, and amiability, are duly appreciated. Her lively

sallies and _naïve_ remarks are very amusing; and the frankness and

simplicity she has preserved in a profession and position so calculated

to induce the reverse, add to her attractions and give piquancy to her

conversation.

There are moments in which Madame Grassini's countenance becomes

lighted up with such animation, that it seems to be invested with a

considerable portion of the rare beauty for which she was so

remarkable.

Her eyes are still glorious, and, like those only of the sunny South,

can flash with intelligence, or melt with tenderness. It is when

conversing on the grand _rôles_ which she filled as _prima donna_, that

her face lights up as I have noticed,--as the war-horse, when hearing

the sound of the trumpet, remembers the scene of his past glory.

When in Italy, some years since, Madame Grassini's carriage was stopped

by brigands, who, having compelled her to descend, ransacked it and

took possession of her splendid theatrical wardrobe, and her

magnificent diamonds.

She witnessed the robbery with calmness, until she saw the brigands

seize the portrait of the Emperor Napoleon, presented to her by his own

hand, and set round with large brilliants, when she appealed to them

with tears streaming down her cheeks to take the settings and all the

diamonds, but not to deprive her of the portrait of her "dear, dear

Emperor!" When this circumstance was referred to she told me the story,

and her eyes glistened with tears while relating it.

Went to Orsay yesterday, and passed a very agreeable day there. It was

a fortified chateau, and must have been a very fine place before the

Revolution caused, not only its pillage, but nearly total destruction,

for only one wing of it now remains.

Built in the reign of Charles VII, it was esteemed one of the best

specimens of the feudal _château fort_ of that epoch; and the

subterranean portion of it still attests its former strength and

magnitude.

It is surrounded by a moat, not of stagnant water, but supplied by the

river Ivette, which flows at the base of the hill on which the château

stands. The water is clear and brisk and the château looks as if it

stood in a pellucid river. The view from the windows is very extensive,

commanding a rich and well-wooded country.

The chapel escaped not the ravages of the sacrilegious band, who

committed such havoc on the château; for the beautiful altar, and some

very interesting monuments, were barbarously mutilated, and the tomb of

the Princesse de Croy, the mother of General Count d'Orsay, on which a

vast sum had been expended, was nearly razed to the ground.

If aught was required to increase my horror of revolutions, and of the

baleful consequences to which they lead, the sight of this once

splendid château, and, above all, of its half-ruined chapel, in which

even the honoured dead were insulted, would have accomplished it.

An heiress of one of the most ancient houses in the _Pays-Bas_, the

Princesse de Croy brought a noble dowry to her husband, himself a man

of princely fortune. Young and beautiful, her munificence soon rendered

her an object of almost, adoration to the dependents of her lord; and

when soon after having given birth to a son and heir, the present

General Comte d'Orsay, she was called to another world, her remains

were followed to her untimely grave by a long train of weeping poor,

whose hearts her bounty had often cheered, and whose descendants were

subsequently horror-struck to see the sanctity of her last earthly

resting-place invaded.

We passed through the hamlet of Palaiseau, on our return to Paris; and

saw in it the steeple where the magpie concealed the silver spoons he

had stolen, and which occasioned the event from which the drama of _La

Pie Voleuse_, known in so many languages, has had its origin.

The real story ended not so happily as the opera, for the poor girl was

executed--the spoons not having been discovered until after her death.

This tragedy in humble life has attached great interest to the steeple

at Palaiseau, and has drawn many persons to the secluded hamlet in

which it stands.

The Duc and Duchesse de Quiche returned from Luneville yesterday; and

we spent last evening with them. The good Duke de Gramont was there,

and was in great joy at their return. They all dine with us to-morrow;

and Madame Craufurd comes to meet them.

Never have I seen such children as the Duc de Quiche's. Uniting to the

most remarkable personal beauty an intelligence and docility as rare as

they are delightful; and never did I witness any thing like the

unceasing care and attention bestowed on their education by their

parents.

Those who only know the Duc and Duchesse in the gay circles, in which

they are universally esteemed among the brightest ornaments, can form

little idea of them in the privacy of their domestic one--emulating

each other in their devotion to their children, and giving only the

most judicious proofs of their attachment to them. No wonder that the

worthy Duc de Gramont doats on his grandchildren, and never seems so

happy as with his excellent son and daughter-in-law.

Went to the Vaudeville Théâtre last evening, to see the new piece by

Scribe, so much talked of, entitled _Avant_, _Pendant, et Aprés_. There

is a fearful _vraisemblance_ in some of the scenes with all that one

has read or pictured to oneself, as daily occurring during the terrible

days of the Revolution; and the tendency of the production is not, in

my opinion, calculated to produce salutary effects. I only wonder it is

permitted to be acted.

The piece is divided, as the title announces, into three different

epochs. The first represents the frivolity and vices attributed to the

days of _l'ancien régime_, and the _tableau des moeurs_, which is

vividly coloured, leaves no favourable impression in the minds of the

audience of that _noblesse_ whose sufferings subsequently expiated the

errors said to have accelerated, if not to have produced, the

Revolution.

Nothing is omitted that could cast odium on them, as a preparation for

the Reign of Terror that follows. The anarchy and confusion of the

second epoch--the fear and horror that prevail when the voices and

motions of a sanguinary mob are heard in the streets, and the terrified

inmates of the houses are seen crouching in speechless terror, are

displayed with wonderful truth.

The lesson is an awful, and I think a dangerous, one, and so seemed to

think many of the upper class among the audience, for I saw some fair

cheeks turn pale, and some furrowed brows look ominous, as the scene

was enacted, while those of the less elevated in rank among the

spectators assumed, or seemed to assume, a certain _fierté_, if not

ferocity, of aspect, at beholding this vivid representation of the

triumph achieved by their order over the _noblesse_.

It is not wise to exhibit to a people, and above all to so inflammable

a people as the French, what _they_ can effect; and I confess I felt

uneasy when I witnessed the deep interest and satisfaction evinced by

many in the _parterre_ during the representation.

The _Après_, the third epoch, is even more calculated to encourage

revolutionary principles, for in it was displayed the elevation to the

highest grades in the army and in the state of those who in the _ancien

régime_ would have remained as the Revolution found them, in the most

obscure stations, but who by that event had brilliant opportunities

afforded for distinguishing themselves.

Heroic courage, boundless generosity, and devoted patriotism, are

liberally bestowed on the actors who figure in this last portion of the

drama; and, as these qualities are known to have appertained to many of

those who really filled the _rôles_ enacted at the period now

represented, the scene had, as might be expected, a powerful effect on

a people so impressible as the French, and so liable to be hurried into

enthusiasm by aught that appeals to their imaginations.

The applause was deafening; and I venture to say, that those from whom

it proceeded left the theatre with a conviction that a revolution was a

certain means of achieving glory and fortune to those who, with all the

self-imagined qualities to merit both, had not been born to either.

Every Frenchman in the middle or lower class believes himself capable

of arriving at the highest honours. This belief sometimes half

accomplishes the destiny it imagines; but even when it fails to effect

this, it ever operates in rendering Frenchmen peculiarly liable to rush

into any change or measure likely to lead to even a chance of

distinction.

As during the performance of _Avant, Pendant et Après_, my eye glanced

on the faces of some of the emigrant _noblesse_, restored to France by

the entry of the Bourbons, I marked the changes produced on their

countenances by it. Anxiety, mingled with dismay, was visible; for the

scenes of the past were vividly recalled, while a vague dread of the

future was instilled. Yes, the representation of this piece is a

dangerous experiment, and so I fear it will turn out.

I am sometimes amused, but more frequently irritated, by observing the

_moeurs Parisiennes_, particularly in the shop-keepers. The airs of

self-complacency, amounting almost to impertinence, practised by this

class, cannot fail to surprise persons accustomed to the civility and

assiduity of those in London, who, whether the purchases made in their

shops be large or small, evince an equal politeness to the buyers.

In Paris, the tradesman assumes the right of dictating to the taste of

his customers; in London, he only administers to it. Enter a Parisian

shop, and ask to be shewn velvet, silk, or riband, to assort with a

pattern you have brought of some particular colour or quality, and the

mercer, having glanced at it somewhat contemptuously, places before you

six or eight pieces of a different tint and texture.

You tell him that they are not similar to the pattern, and he answers,

"That may be; nevertheless, his goods are of the newest fashion, and

infinitely superior to your model." You say, "You prefer the colour of

your pattern, and must match it." He produces half-a-dozen pieces still

more unlike what you require; and to your renewed assertion that no

colour but the one similar to your pattern will suit you, he assures

you, that his goods are superior to all others, and that what you

require is out of fashion, and a very bad article, and, consequently,

that you had much better abandon your taste and adopt his. This counsel

is given without any attempt at concealing the contempt the giver of it

entertains for your opinion, and the perfect satisfaction he indulges

for his own.

You once more ask, "If he has got nothing to match the colour you

require?" and he shrugs his shoulders and answers, "_Pourtant_, madame,

what I have shewn you is much superior," "Very possible; but no colour

will suit me but this one," holding up the pattern; "for I want to

replace a breadth of a new dress to which an accident has occurred."

"_Pourtant_, madame, my colours are precisely the same, but the quality

of the materials is infinitely better!" and with this answer, after

having lost half an hour--if not double that time--you are compelled to

be satisfied, and leave the shop, its owner looking as if he considered

you a person of decidedly bad taste, and very troublesome into the

bargain.

Similar treatment awaits you in every shop; the owners having, as it

appears to me, decided on shewing you only what _they_ approve, and not

what you seek. The women of high rank in France seldom, if ever, enter

any shop except that of Herbault, who is esteemed the _modiste, par

excellence_, of Paris, and it is to this habit, probably, that the want

of _bienséance_ so visible in Parisian _boutiquiers_, is to be

attributed.

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