SECTION I.

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Transcriber’s note:

Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_).

The long-form ſ character has been replaced by the

modern s.

Footnote anchors are denoted by [number], and the footnotes

have been placed at the end of the book.

There is one large very wide table on page 24 of the original

book. This has been split into six parts, with the first column

replicated for readability. It is best viewed with a monospace

font. The two footnotes specific to this table have been placed

under the table, as in the original book, and are marked by †

and ‡.

The list of Plates in the original book, and in this etext, is

at the end of the book.

There are frequent abbreviated references to Kæmpfer’s

Amœnitatum Exoticarum (Amœn. Exot. and similar).

Changes to the text are noted at the very end of the book.

[Illustration: Green Tea

Fig. 1 to Fig. 17

Painted & Engraved by J. Miller.

Publish’d according to Act of Parliament Dec. 10th 1771.]

THE

NATURAL HISTORY

OF THE

TEA-TREE,

WITH OBSERVATIONS ON

THE MEDICAL QUALITIES OF TEA,

AND ON THE

EFFECTS OF TEA-DRINKING.

A NEW EDITION.

BY JOHN COAKLEY LETTSOM, M. D.

_LONDON._

PRINTED BY J. NICHOLS;

FOR CHARLES DILLY.

1799.

ADVERTISEMENT.

In the year 1769 was printed an inaugural dissertation, intituled,

“Observationes ad vires Theæ pertinentes.”

In the year 1772 was published, “The Natural History of the Tea tree,

with Observations on the Medical Qualities of Tea, and Effects of

Tea-drinking,” which not only contained a translation of the Thesis,

but likewise the natural history of this vegetable, and which having

been long out of print, it was thought a second edition would be

favourably received by the publick.

In Sir George Staunton’s Embassy to China, lately published, there

are some remarks on Tea, which are occasionally referred to in the

present edition; and they are referred to with the satisfaction of

confirming the relation first offered to the publick in 1772.

As the Preface inserted at that time affords some hints respecting

the introduction of the Tea-tree into Europe, it is prefixed to the

present edition.

PREFACE

TO

THE FIRST EDITION, 1772.

The subject of the following Essay being now in general use among

the inhabitants of this kingdom, as well as in many other parts of

Europe, and constituting a large part of our commerce, it cannot but

afford pleasure to the curious to possess the history of a shrub,

with the leaves of which they are so well acquainted.

Many treatises have been published on the uses and effects of Tea;

a few writers have likewise given some circumstances relative to

its natural history and preparation, the indefatigable Kæmpfer

particularly; but these circumstances lie so dispersed, and the

accounts which have been given of the virtues and efficacy of Tea are

in general so contradictory, and void of true medical observation,

that it still seemed no improper subject for a candid discussion.

The reader may at least have the satisfaction of seeing, in a narrow

compass, the principal opinions relative to this subject.

Within these three or four years we have been successful enough to

introduce into this kingdom a few genuine Tea plants. There was

formerly, I am told, a very large one in England, the property of an

East-India captain, who kept it some years, and refused to part with

either cuttings or layers. This died, and there was not another left

in the kingdom. A large plant was not long since in the possession of

the great Linnæus, but, I am informed, it is now dead. I know several

gentlemen, who have spared neither pains nor expence to procure this

ever-green from China; but their best endeavours have, in general,

proved unsuccessful. For, though many strong and good plants were

shipped at Canton, and all possible care taken of them during the

voyage, yet they soon grew sickly, and but one, till of late,

survived the passage to England.

The largest Tea plant in this kingdom is, I believe, at Kew; it was

presented to that royal seminary by John Ellis, Esq. who raised it

from the seed. But the plant at Sion-house, belonging to the Duke

of Northumberland, is the first that ever flowered in Europe; and

an elegant drawing has been taken from it in that state, with its

botanical description. The engraver has done justice to his original

drawing, which is now in the possession of that great promoter of

natural history, Dr. Fothergill, to whom I have been indebted for

many dried specimens and flowers of the Tea-tree from China. If the

reader compare this plate with the following description, he will

have as clear an idea of this exotic shrub, as can at present be

exhibited.

A few young Tea plants have lately been introduced into some of the

most curious botanic gardens about London; hence it seems probable

that this very distinguished vegetable will become a denizen of

England, and such of her colonies as may be deemed most favourable to

its propagation.

In regard to the effects of Tea on the human constitution, one

might have imagined that long and general use would have furnished

so many indisputable proofs of its good and bad properties, that

nothing could be easier than to determine these with precision:

yet so difficult a thing is it to establish physical certainty in

regard to the operation of food or medicines on the human body,

that our knowledge in general, even with respect to this article,

is very imperfect. Nevertheless, I have endeavoured to avail myself

of what has been written on this subject by my predecessors with

the appearance of reason, as well as of the conversation of learned

and ingenious men now living, together with such experiments and

observations as have occurred to me, so as to furnish the means of a

more extensive knowledge of the subject.

* * * * *

With respect to the present edition, subsequent information has

enabled me to enlarge it with some important additions. Since the

period of the original publication, the Tea-tree has been introduced

into many of our gardens, and afforded the means of ascertaining

its botanical characters. I have, at the same time, the pleasure to

observe, that the first edition has received the approbation of some

of the most distinguished botanists. Linnæus, as well as Haller, as

soon as they had perused it, conveyed to me their approbation, in

the kindest manner: Murray and Cullen, and recently Schreber, have

made frequent references to its authorities. If these distinguished

characters have approved the former, I am encouraged to hope that the

present edition will not be less favourably received by the publick.

CONTENTS.

PART I.

THE NATURAL HISTORY OF THE TEA TREE.

Section I. Class and Order page 1

II. Synonyma 8

III. Authors upon Tea 10

IV. Origin of Tea 19

V. Soil and Culture 26

VI. Gathering the Leaves 29

VII. Method of curing or preparing Tea 33

VIII. Varieties of Tea 38

IX. Drinking of Tea 48

X. Succedanea 50

XI. Preserving the Seeds for Vegetation 54

PART II.

THE MEDICAL HISTORY OF TEA 59

THE

NATURAL HISTORY

OF THE

TEA-TREE.

_PART THE FIRST._

SECTION I.

CLASS XIII. ORDER I.

POLYANDRIA MONOGYNIA.

{ PERIANTHIUM

{ quinquepartitum,

K. CALYX, { _minimum_,

Fig. 1, 2, 3. 10. { _planum_,

{ segmentis _rotundis_,

{ _obtusis_,

{ _persistentibus_. (Fig. 1. K.)

{ A PERIANTHIUM

{ quinquepartite,

{ very small,

K. The CALYX, { flat,

Fig. 1, 2, 3. 10. { the segments round,

{ obtuse,

{ permanent. (Fig. 1. K.)

{ PETALA _sex_,

{

{ _subrotunda_,

{

{ _concava_:

{ duo exteriora

{ (F. 4. 7. C. C.)

{ minora,

{ inæqualia,

{

C. COROLLA, { Nondum expansa:

F. 1. 3, 4, { (F. 3. C.)

5, 6, 7, 8. {

{ quatuor interiora,

{ (F. 6. C. C. C. C.

{ & F. 5.)

{ magna,

{ _æqualia_,

{ antequam decidunt,

{ recurvata. (F. 8.

{ C. C.)

{ The PETALS six[1],

{ subrotund, or

{ roundish.

{ concave:

{ two exterior,

{ (F. 4. 7. C. C.)

{ less,

{ unequal,

C. THE COROLLA { the flower before

F. 1. 3, 4, { it is fully blown:

5, 6, 7, 8. { (F. 3. C.)

{ four interior (F. 6.

{ C. C. C. C. and

{ F. 5.)

{ large,

{ equal,

{ before they fall off,

{ recurvate. (F. 8.

{ C. C.)

{ f. FILAMENTA _numerosa_,

{ (ducenta circiter.)

{ (f. a. F. 6. 9.)

{ _filiformia,_

STAMINA, {

F. 6. 9, 10, 11. { _corolla breviora_.

{

{ a. ANTHERÆ } (F. 10. 11.

{ cordatæ, } *Lente aucta.)

{ biloculares. }

{ f. The FILAMENTS

{ numerous[2], (f. a.

{ Fig. 6. 9.)

The STAMENS, { (about 200.)

F. 6. 9, 10, 11. { filiform,

{ shorter than the

{ Corolla.

{

{ a. The ANTHERAS } (F. 10. 11.

{ cordate, } *magnified.)

{ bilocular[3]. }

{ g. GERMEN _globosotrigonum_.

{ (F. 1. 10. 12.)

{

{ S. STYLUS simplex,

{ ad apicem trifidus,

{ (F. 12.)

{

PISTILLUM, { Petalis Staminibusque

F. 1. 10. 12. { delapsis,

*Lente auctum. { a se mutuo

{ recedentes,

{ divaricantes, &

{ longitudine aucta,

{ marcescentes.

{ (F. 1. 12.)

{

{ t. STIGMATA _simplicia_.

{ (F. 1. 9. 10. 12.)

{ g. The GERMEN

{ three globular

{ bodies joined

{ (F. 1. 10. 12.)

{

{ s. The STYLE

The PISTILIUM, { simple, at the

F. 1. 10. 12. { apex trifid,

*magnified. { (F. 12.)

{

{ After the petals

{ and stamens are

{ fallen off, they

{ part from each

{ other, spread open,

{ increase in length,

{ and wither on the Germen.

{ (F. 1. 12.)

{

{ t. The STIGMAS simple.

{ (F. 1. {9. 10. 12.)

{ CAPSULA _ex tribus_

{ _globis coalita_, (F. 13.)

{

P. PERICARPIUM, { trilocularis, (F. 14.)

F. 1. 13, 14. {

{ apice trifariam dehiscens. (F. 13.)

{ A CAPSULE in the form

{ of three globular bodies united,

{ (F. 13.)

{

P. The PERICARPIUM, { trilocular, (F. 14.)

F. 1. 13. 14. {

{ gaping at the top in three

{ directions, (F. 13.)

{ _solitaria_,

S. SEMINA, { _globosa_,

F. 14. { _introrsum angulata_.

{ single,

S. The SEEDS, { globose,

F. 14. { angular on the inward side.

{ ramosus,

T. TRUNCUS, { lignosus,

F. 1. { teres:

{ ramis alternis,

{ vagis,

{ rigidiusculis,

{ cinerascentibus,

{ prope apicem

{ rufescentibus.

{ ramose,

T. The TRUNK[4], { ligneous,

F. 1. { round:

{ the branches alternate,

{ vague, _or placed in_

{ _no regular order_,

{ stiffish,

{ inclining to an ash

{ color,

{ towards the top

{ reddish.

{ axillares, (F. 1. p.)

{ alterni,

{ solitarii,

{ curvati,

{ uniflori,

PEDUNCULI, { incrassati, (F. 1, 2. 7.)

(F. 1. p.) { stipulati:

{ stipula solitaria,

{ subulata, } (F. 1, 2.

{ erecta. } 7. 9. d.)

{ alterna,

{ elliptica,

{ obtuse serrata,

{ marginibus interdentes

{ recurvatis.

{ axillary, (F. 1. p.)

{ alternate,

{ single,

{ curved,

{ uniflorous,

PEDUNCLES, { incrassate, (F. 1. 2. 7.)[5]

F. 1. { stipulate:

{ the stipula single,

{ subulate, } (F. 1, 2.

{ erect. } 7. 9. d.)

{ alternate,

{ elliptical,

{ obtusely serrate,

{ edges between

{ the teeth recurvate.

{ apice marginata, }

{ (F. 15. e.) } *Lente aucta.

{ basi integerrima, }

{ (F. 16, 17.) }

F. FOLIA, {

F. 1. 15, 16, 17. { glabra,

{ nitida,

{ bullata,

{ subtus venosa,

{ consistentia,

{ petiolata:

{

{ Petiolis brevissimis,

{ (F. 1. 16, 17. b.)

{

{ subtus teretibus, } (F. 16. b.

{ gibbis, } *Lente auctis.)

{

{ supra plano-canaliculatis.

{ (F. 17. b. *Lente auctis.)

{ apex emarginate, }

{ (F, 15. e.[6]) }

{ at the base } *magnified.

{ very entire, }

{ (F. 16, 17.) }

F. The LEAVES, {

F. 1. 15, 16, 17. { smooth,

{ glossy,

{ bullate[7],

{ venose on the under side,

{ of a firm texture,

{ on foot-stalks:

{ The foot-stalks very short,

{ (F. 1. 16, 17. b.)

{

{ round on the under }

{ side, }

{ gibbous, _or_ } (F. 16. b.

{ _bunching out_, } *magnified.)

{

{ on the upper-side, flattish,

{ and slightly channelled.

{ (F. 17. b. *magnified.)

Nomina trivialia

Thea bohea & viridis.

The common names

bohea and green Teas.[8]

There is only one species of this plant; the difference of green and

bohea Tea depending upon the nature of the soil, the culture, and

manner of drying the leaves. It has even been observed, that a green

Tea-tree, planted in the bohea country, will produce bohea Tea, and

so the contrary.[9]

SECTION II.

SYNONYMA.

Many authors have at different times treated upon this subject; some

who never saw the Tea-tree, as well as others who have seen it[10]. I

shall enumerate those who are mentioned in the Species plantarum of

Linnæus[11].

Thea; Hortus Cliffort. 204. Mat. Med. 264. Hill. Exot. t. 22.

Thee; Kæmpfer. Japan. 605. t. 606.

Thee frutex; Barthol. Act. 4. p. 1. t. 1. Bont. Jav. Amstel. fol. 87

ad 88.

Thee Sinensium; Breyn. Cent. 111. t. 112. incon. 17. t. 3. Bocc. Mus.

114. t. 94.

Chaa; Casp. Bauhin. Pinax Theatri Botanici. Basil. 1623. 4to. p. 147.

_Evonymo_ affinis arbor orientalis nucifera, flore roseo; Pluk. Alm.

Botan. Stirp. nov. tradens. 1200. Lond. 1705. fol. 139. t. 88. fig. 6.

In the Acta Haffniensia, we meet with the first figure of this tree;

but, as it was taken from a dried specimen, it does not illustrate

the subject very well. Bontius published another, and though drawn in

India, where he might have seen the plant, it does not much surpass

the preceding. The figure given by Plukenet is better than either of

the former; and after his, Breynius published one still better: but

of all the engravings formerly executed, that given by Kæmpfer must

be allowed to be the most accurate[12]; yet even this icon, like all

the others published by this industrious naturalist, is extremely

imperfect; although he certainly saw the living plants which he has

represented, however expert the Chinese may be in deception[13].

SECTION III.

AUTHORS UPON TEA.

Besides the Authors already mentioned, several others have given

some account of this exotic ever-green, the principal of which are

added for the farther information of those who may be desirous of

consulting these writers on the subject.

Johann. Petr. Maffeus Rerum Indicarum libro VI. pag. 108. & lib. XII.

pag. 242. Ludov. Almeyd. in eodem opere lib. IV. select. epist.

Petr. Jarric. tom. III. lib. II. cap. XVII.

Matth. Ric. de Christian. exped. apud Sinas, lib. I. cap. VII.

L. Baptista Ramusio, le Navigationi e viaggi nelli quali si Contienne

la Descrittione dell’ Africa, del paese del prete Joanni del mar

Rosso, Calicut, isole Moluchese la Navigazione interno il mondo.

Venet. 1550. 1563. 1588. 3 Vol. Fol. Vol. III. p. 15.

Translation in English of Giovanni Botaro,[14] an eminent Italian

author. Printed in 1590.

Texeira, Relaciones del origen de los Reyes de Persia y de Hormuz.

Amberes, 1610. p. 19.

Fischer’s Sibirische Geschichte, 1639. Vol. II. p. 694.

Alois Frois, in Relat. Japonicâ.

Nicol. Trigaut. de Regno Chinæ, Cap. III. p. 34.

Linscot. de Insulâ Japonicâ, Cap. XXVI. p. 35. Ha. 1599. Fol. et

Belgiæ Amst. 1644. Fol.

Bernhard. Varen. in descriptione Regni Japoniæ, Cap. XXIII. p. 161.

Johan. Bauhin. Histor. Univers. Plantarum, 1597. Tom. III. lib.

XXVII. cap. I. p. 5. b.

Alex. Rhod. Sommaire des divers voyages et missions Apostoliques du

R. P. Alexandre de Rhodes de la compagnie de Jesus à la Chine, et

autres Royaumes de l’orient, avec son retour de la Chine, à Rome;

depuis l’année, 1618, jusques à l’année, 1653, p. 25.

Dionysii Joncquet, Stirpium aliquot paulò obscurius officinis,

Arabibus aliisque denominatarum, per Casp. Bauhin, explicat. p. 25.

Ed. 1612.

Simon Pauli, Quadripartitum Botanicum, classe secundâ, pag. 44.

Ibidemque classe tertiâ, pag. 493.

Simon Pauli, Comment. de abusu Tobaci et herbæ Theæ, Rostock. 1635.

4to. Strasburgh. 1665. Argent. 1665. 4to. Francf. 1708. 4to. London,

1746. 8vo.

Wilhelm. Leyl. epistol. apud Simon Pauli in Comment. de abusu Tobaci,

&c. p. 15. b.

Jacob. Bontii de Medicina Indorum, lib. IV. Leid. 1642. 12mo. et

cum Pisone, Leid. 1658. Fol. Belgiæ, Oost en Westindische waarande,

Amstel. 1694. 8vo. Anglicè. An Account of the Diseases, Natural

History, and Medicines, of the East Indies: London, 1769, 8vo.

Beginne ende voortgang van de Vereenighde Neederlande, 1646, 2 vol.

et sub titulo, Recueil des Voyages faits pour L’Etablissement de la

Campagnie des Indes Orientales, Amstel. 1702. 12mo. 10 Vol.

Joann. Nieuzofs, Gezantschap an den Keizer van China, p. 122. a.

Erasmi Franciss. Ost- und West-Indischer wie auch Sinesischer

Lust- und Stats-Garten, p. 291.

Nicol. Tulpii, Observ. Medic. lib. IV. cap. LX. p. 380. Leidæ, 1641.

8vo.

Adam. Olearii, Persionische Reise-Beschreibung, 1633. p. 325. lib. V.

cap. XVII. p. 599. Fol. 1656. Hamburg. 1698. Amstel. 1666. 4to.

Johan. Albert, von Mandelslo, Morgenlandische Reise-Beschreibung,

lib. I. cap. XI. p. 39. Edit. 1656.

Olai Wormii, Mus. lib. II. cap. XIV. p. 165. Hafn. 1642. 4to.

Gulielm. Piso, in Itinere Brasilico, Cliviæ, 1661. 8vo.

Athanas. Kircher, Chin. Illustrat. Ed. 1658. cum figura Fruct. Theæ.

Simon de Molinariis, Ambrosia Asiatica, sive de virtute et usu Theæ,

Genuæ, 1672. 12mo.

De Comiers, le bon usage du Thee, du Coffee, et du Chocolat, pour la

Preservation et pour la Guerison des Malades, Paris, 1687. 12mo.

Marcus Mappus, de Thea, Coffea, et Chocolata. Argent. 1675 et 1695.

4to.

Oliv. Dappers, Beschryvinge des Keizerryts van Taising of Sina,

Amstel. 1680. Fol. p. 226.

Nic. Blegny, du bon usage du Thé, du Caffé, et du Chocolat. Lyon.

1680. 12mo. Abrégé du traité du Caffé, &c. Lyon. 1687. 12mo.

John Overton, Voyage to Surat, London, 1696. 8vo.

John Overton, Essay upon the Nature and Qualities of Tea, London,

1735. 8vo.

Paul Sylvestre du Four, de l’usage du Thè, Caphè, et Chocolat.

London, 1671. et auctius, 1684. 1686. 12mo. Hunc libellum Jacobus

Sponius Latinè reddidit, et edidit cum titulo, Tr. nov. de potu Theæ,

Coffeæ, Chocolatæ, Paris. 1685. 12mo. cum figuris.

Pechlin, Theophilus Bibaculus, Franckfort, 1684. 4to.

Franc. Mich. Disdier, Beschreibung des Caffée, The, Chocolate, und

Tobaks, Hamb. 1684. 12mo.

Bern. Albini, Disputatio de Thea, Francf. Viadr. 1684. 4to.

Arnold. Montan. Gudenswaerdige Gesandtchappen aen de Kaisaren van

Japan. 1684.

J. Chamberlane, manner of making Tea, Coffee, and Chocolate, Lond.

1685. 12mo. p. 46.

Republiques des Lettres, tom. III. Fev. 1685.

Petri Petivi, Carmen de Thea; et Joh. Georg. Heinichen de Theæ

encomiis. Lugdun. 1685. 4to.

Corn. Bontekoe, van The, Coffy, en Chocolate. Haag. 1685. 8vo.

Spanius de Thea, Coffea, et Chocolata.

Christian. Kursner, de potu Theæ. Marpurg, 1681.

Jan. Abraham. à Gehema, Weetstreit des Chinesisehen Thea mit Warmen

Wasser. Berlin, 1685, 8vo. Francf. 1696. 8vo. sub titulo, Zwanzig

gesundheits regeln.

Steph. Blankaart, gebrugk en misbruyk van de Thee. Haag. 1686. 8vo.

The Natural History of Coffee, Tea, Chocolate, and Tobacco, with a

Tract of the Elder and Juniper Berries. Lond. 1683. 4to.

Henrici Cosmii, magnæ naturæ œconomia cum demonstratione Theæ,

Coffeæ, Chocolatæ, Francf. Lips. 1687. 12mo.

Elias Comerarius, in disputationibus de Thea et Coffea, Tubingae,

1694. 8vo.

Le Compte’s Journey through the Empire of China. Lond. 1697. 8vo. p.

228.

Joh. Ludov. Apinus, obs. 70. Decur. 3. Miscell. Curios. 1697. Andr.

Cleyerus, Dec. 2. an. 4ti. pag. 7. Dan. Crugerus, Dec. 2. Ann. 4ti.

p. 141. Riedlinus Lin. Med. Ann. 4ti. Dom. Ambros. Stegmann, de

Decoct. Theæ. Vol. V. p. 36.

Sir Thomas Pope Blount’s Natural History, 8vo. London, 1693.

Wilh. Ulrich Waldschmidt, de usu et abusu Theæ in genere. Kiel. 1692.

8vo.

Ejusdem, an potus herbæ Theæ ecsiccandi et emaciandi virtute

pollerat? Kiel, 1702. 4to.

P. Duncan, Avis Salutaire contre l’Abus du Coffè, du Chocolat, et du

Thè. Rotterdam, 1705. 8vo. London, 1766. 8vo.

Groot misbruyk van de Theæ en Coffæ. Haag, 1695. 4to.

Philosophical Transactions, V. I. an. 1665, 1666. Monday, July 2,

1766.

Plukenetii, Amalth. Botan. Londini, 1705, p. 79. 139.

Renaudot, anciennes relations de la Chine et des Indes. Paris, 1718,

p. 31.

Kæmpfer, Amœnit. Exotic. Lemgov. 4to. 1712, p. 618.

Les Lettres curieuses et edifiantes des Jesuites, passim.

Car. Frid. Luther, de potu Theæ, Kiel, 1712. 4to.

J. Cunningham, de variis speciebus Theæ, Agricultura Chinensi, &c. n.

280.

Levuh. Frid. Meisner, Disputatio inaugur. de Thea, Coffea, Chocolata.

Nuremb. 1721, 8vo.

Botanicum Officinale, or a compendious Herbal of such Plants as are

used in Physic, by Joseph Miller. Lond. 1722. 8vo.

Labat, Nouveau Voyage aux Iles de l’Amerique. Paris, 1721.

Joh. Henricus Cohauson, Niewe Thee Tafel. et de Thea, Coffea, &c. à

Christ. Helwig. Amstel. 1719. 8vo. Germanicè, 1722. 8vo.

Short’s Dissertation upon the Nature and Properties of Tea, &c.

London, 1730. 4to.

Ancient Accounts of India and China, by two Mahommedan Travellers.

London, 1732.

L’Abbé Pluche, Le Spectacle de la Nature, à Paris, 1732.

Les Entretiens Physiques d’Ariste et d’Edoxe, par le pere Reynault.

Paris, 1732. tom. 3.

John Arbuthnot, M. D. Essay concerning the Nature of Aliments. Lond.

1735. 8vo.

Casp. Neumann, vom Thee, Coffee, Bier und Wein, Leips. 1735.

J. Franc. le Fevre, de natura, usu, et abusu, Coffeæ, Theæ,

Chocolatæ. Vesuntione, 1737. 4to.

R. James, Treatise on Tea, Tobacco, Coffee, and Chocolate, translated

from Simon Pauli, Comment. &c. London, 1746, 8vo.

Barr. Rarior. 128. t. 904.

Du Halde, Description génerale Historique, Chronologique, Politique,

et Physique, de la Chine, Paris, 1735. Fol. 4 vol. Haag. 1736. 4to. 4

vol. History of Japan, Lond. 1735. 8vo. 4 vol.

Astley’s Collection of Voyages, 4 vol. 4to. Lond. 1746.

The true Qualities of Tea. Anonymous. Lond. 1746. 8vo.

Petr. Kalms, Wästgöta Resa, Stockholm, 1746. 8vo. translated by

Forster, Lond. 1772. 8vo. 2 vol.

James Stevenson, Treatise on Tobacco, Tea, Coffee, and Chocolate,

Lond. 1746. 8vo.

Chambers’ Encyclopædia, Lond. 1752. Fol. Tom. II.

Mason on the Properties of Tea, 1756. 8vo.

The good and bad Effects of Tea considered, Anonymous, Lond. 1758.

8vo.

Linnæi Amœnit. Acad. V. VII. p. 241.

Newmann’s Chemistry, by Lewis. Lond. 1759. 4to. p. 373.

Hanway’s Journal of eight Days Journey. London, 1759. 8vo. 2 vol. p.

21. vol. II.

Hanway’s Observations on the Causes of the Dissoluteness amongst the

Poor. Lond. 1772. 4to. p. 73. et passim.

L’Abbé Jacquin, de la Santé utile à tout le Monde, à Paris, 1763.

8vo. p. 190.

Burmanni Fl. Indica, Lugd. Bat. 1766. p. 122.

Linnæi Sp. Plant. Vindobonæ. 1746. p. 734. Syst. Nat. Vind. 1770.

Tom. II. p. 365.

Linnæi Mat. Med. Vind. 1773. p. 136. Conf. Murray, appar. Med. Bergii

Mat. Med. &c.

Encyclopedie, ou Dict. Raisonné, Neufch. 1765. Fol. Tom. XVI. Thè.

M. de Begne de Presle, de Conservateur de la Santé, ou Avis sur les

Dangers, &c. à Paris. 1763. 12mo. Dangers du Thè, p. 118.

Concorde de la Geographic, ouvrage postume de l’Abbé Pluche, Paris,

1764. 12mo.

Will. Lewis, Experimental History of the Materia Medica, Lond. 1768.

4to. p. 518.

Hart’s Essays on Husbandry. Lond. 1768. p. 166.

Tissot on Diseases incidental to literary and sedentary Persons, by

Kirkpatrick. Lond. 1769. 12mo. p. 145.

Romaire, Dictionaire d’Histoire naturelle. Paris, 1769. 8vo.

Milne’s Botanical Dictionary, Lond. 1770. 8vo.

Brookes’ Natural History. Lond. 1772. 6 vol. with a plate of the Tea

Plant.

Osbeck’s Voyage into China, by Forster. Lond. 1771. 8vo. 2 vol.

Young’s Farmer’s Letters, Vol. I. p. 202. & 299.

Buc’hoz, Dissertation sur le Thè sur la recolte, et sur les bons et

mauvais effets de son infusian. Paris.

Blackwell’s herbal. Lond. 1739. t. 351.

Thunberg, Flora Japon. Lipsiæ, 1784. p. 225.

Cullen’s Mat. Med. Edinb. 1789. Tom. II. p. 309.

Murray, Appar. Medic. Gotting. 1787. Tom. IV. p. 226.

Grozier’s general Description of China. London. 2 vol. 8vo. Vol. I.

p. 442.

Fougeroux de Bondaroi, in Rozier, obs. et mem. sur la Physique, Tom.

I. f. 1.

Woodville’s Supplement to Medical Botany. Lond. 1794. p. 116, with a

figure.

Sir George Staunton, An authentic Account of an Embassy, Lond. 1797.

Vol. I. p. 22. and particularly Vol. II. p. 464.

SECTION IV.

ORIGIN OF TEA.

As China and Japan[15] are the only countries known to us, where the

Tea shrub is cultivated for use, we may reasonably conclude, that

it is indigenous to one of them, if not to both. What motive first

led the natives to use an infusion of Tea in the present manner is

uncertain; but probably in order to correct the water, which is said

to be brackish and ill-tasted in many parts of those countries[16].

Of the good effects of Tea in such cases, we have a remarkable proof

in Kalm’s journey through North America, which his translator gives

us in the following words:

“Tea is differently esteemed by different people, and I think we

_would_ be as well, and our purses much better, if we were without

tea and coffee. However, I must be impartial, and mention in praise

of Tea, that if it be useful, it must certainly be so in summer, on

such journies as mine, through a desart country, where one cannot

carry wine, or other liquors, and where the water is generally unfit

for use, as being full of insects. In such cases it is very pleasant

when boiled, and Tea is drank with it; and I cannot sufficiently

describe the fine taste it has in such circumstances. It relieves

a weary traveller more than can be imagined, as I have myself

experienced, together with a great many others, who have travelled

through the desart forests of America: on such journies Tea is found

to be almost as necessary as victuals[17].”

About the year 1600, Texeira, a Spaniard, saw the dried Tea leaves in

Malacca, where he was informed that the Chinese prepared a drink from

this vegetable; and, in 1633, Olearius found this practice prevalent

among the Persians, who procured the plant under the name of Cha

orchia, from China, by means of the Usbeck Tartars. In 1639, Starkaw,

the Russian Ambassador, at the Court of the Mogul, Chau Altyn,

partook of the infusion of Tea; and, at his departure, was offered a

quantity of it, as a present for the Czar Michael Romanof, which the

Ambassador refused, as being an article for which he had no use[18].

This article was first introduced into Europe by the Dutch East

India Company, very early in the last century; and a quantity of

it was brought over from Holland about the year 1666[19], by Lord

Arlington and Lord Ossory. In consequence of this, Tea soon became

known amongst people of fashion, and its use, by degrees, since that

period, has become general.

It is, however, certain, that before this time, drinking Tea, even

in public coffee-houses, was not uncommon; for, in 1660, a duty of

four-pence per gallon was laid on the liquor made and sold in all

coffee-houses[20].

So early as 1678, Cornelius Bontekoe, a Dutch physician, published

a treatise, in his own language, on Tea, Coffee, and Chocolate[21].

In this he shews himself a very zealous advocate for Tea, and denies

the possibility of its injuring the stomach, although taken to the

greatest excess, as far as one or two hundred cups in a day. To what

motive we are to impute the partiality of Dr. Bontekoe, is uncertain

at this period; but as he was first physician to the Elector of

Brandenburgh, and probably of considerable eminence and character,

his eulogium might tend greatly to promote its use: however, we find

its importation and consumption were daily augmented; and, before the

conclusion of the last century, it became generally known among the

common people in England.

It is foreign to my subject, or it would perhaps afford to a

speculative mind no inconsiderable satisfaction, to trace the

consumption from its first entrance at the Custom-house to the

present amazing imports. At this time upwards of twenty-three

millions of pounds are annually allowed for home consumption; and the

East India Company have generally in their warehouses a supply at

least for one year.

The following account of the importation of Tea, from 1776 to

1795, as related by Sir George Staunton (Vol. II. p. 624), may be

satisfactory to the Reader:

_An Account of the Quantities of Teas exported from China, in English

and Foreign Ships, in each Year from 1776 to 1795, distinguishing

each Year._

Legend: #S. = Number of Ships

---------------+---+----------+---+----------+---+----------+---+----------+

|#S.| 1776. |#S.| 1777. |#S.| 1778. |#S.| 1779. |

+---+----------+---+----------+---+----------+---+----------+

| | lb. | | | | | | |

By Swedes | 2 | 2,562,500| 2 | 3,049,100| 2 | 2,851,200| 2 | 3,328,000|

Danes | 2 | 2,833,700| 2 | 2,487,300| 2 | 2,098,300| 1 | 1,388,400|

Dutch | 5 | 4,923,700| 4 | 4,856,500| 4 | 4,695,700| 4 | 4,553,100|

French | 3 | 2,521,600| 5 | 5,719,100| 7 | 3,657,500| 4 | 2,102,800|

Imperial |-- | -- -- |-- | -- -- |-- | -- -- |-- | -- -- |

Hungarian |-- | -- -- |-- | -- -- |-- | -- -- |-- | -- -- |

Tuscan |-- | -- -- |-- | -- -- |-- | -- -- |-- | -- -- |

Portugueze |-- | -- -- |-- | -- -- |-- | -- -- |-- | -- -- |

American |-- | -- -- |-- | -- -- |-- | -- -- |-- | -- -- |

Prussian |-- | -- -- |-- | -- -- |-- | -- -- |-- | -- -- |

Spanish | | | | | | | | |

+---+----------+---+----------+---+----------+---+----------+

Total Foreign |12 |12,841,500|13 |16,112,000|15 |13,302,700|11 |11,302,300|

English private| | | | | | | | |

Trade included| 5 | 3,402,415| 8 | 5,673,434| 9 | 6,392,788| 7 | 4,372,021|

+---+----------+---+----------+---+----------+---+----------+

|17 |16,243,915|21 |21,785,434|24 |19,695,488|18 |15,674,321|

+---+----------+---+----------+---+----------+---+----------+

---------------+---+----------+---+-----------+---+----------+

|#S.| 1780. |#S.| 1781. |#S.| 1782. |

+---+----------+---+-----------+---+----------+

| | | | | | |

By Swedes | 2 | 2,626,400| 3 | 4,108,900| 2 | 3,267,300|

Danes | 3 | 3,983,600| 2 | 2,341,400| 3 | 4,118,500|

Dutch | 4 | 4,687,800| 4 | 4,957,600|-- | -- -- |

French |-- | -- -- |-- | -- -- |-- | -- -- |

Imperial | 1 | 1,375,900|-- | -- -- |-- | -- -- |

Hungarian |-- | -- -- | 1 | 317,700| | |

Tuscan |-- | -- -- |-- | -- -- |-- | -- -- |

Portugueze |-- | -- -- |-- | -- -- |-- | -- -- |

American |-- | -- -- |-- | -- -- |-- | -- -- |

Prussian |-- | -- -- |-- | -- -- |-- | -- -- |

Spanish | | | | | | |

+---+----------+---+-----------+---+----------+

Total Foreign |10 |12,673,700|10 | 11,725,600| 5 | 7,385,800|

English private| | none | | | | |

Trade included|-- | imported.|17 |‡11,592,819| 9 | 6,857,731|

+---+----------+---+-----------+---+----------+

|10 |12,673,700|27 | 23,318,419|14 |14,243,531|

+---+----------+---+-----------+---+----------+

---------------+---+----------+---+-----------+---+-----------++

|#S.| 1783. |#S.| 1784. |#S.| 1785. ||

+---+----------+---+-----------+---+-----------++

| | | | | | ||

By Swedes | 3 | 4,265,600| 3 | 4,878,900| | ||

Danes | 4 | 5,477,200| 3 | 3,204,000| 4 | 3,158,000||

Dutch |-- | -- -- |-- | -- -- | 4 | 5,334,003||

French |-- | -- -- | 8 | 4,231,200| 4 | 4,960,000||

Imperial |-- | -- -- | 5 | 3,428,400| | ||

Hungarian | | | | | | ||

Tuscan | 1 | 933,300| | | | ||

Portugueze | 8 | 3,954,100|-- | -- -- | 4 | 3,199,000||

American |-- | -- -- |-- | -- -- | 2 | 880,100||

Prussian |-- | -- -- | 2 | 3,329,800| | ||

Spanish | | | | | | ||

+---+----------+---+-----------+---+-----------++

Total Foreign |16 |14,630,200|21 |†19,072,300|18 |†17,531,100||

English private| | | | | | ||

Trade included| 6 | 4,138,295|13 | 9,916,760|14 | 10,583,628||

+---+----------+---+-----------+---+-----------++

|22 |18,768,495|34 | 28,989,060|32 | 28,114,728||

+---+----------+---+-----------+---+-----------++

Legend: #S. = Number of Ships

---------------+---+-----------+---+----------+---+----------+---+----------+

|#S.| 1786. |#S.| 1787. |#S.| 1788. |#S.| 1789. |

+---+-----------+---+----------+---+----------+---+----------+

| | lb. | | | | | | |

By Swedes | 4 | 6,212,400| 1 | 1,747,700| 2 | 2,890,900| 2 | 2,589,000|

Danes | 3 | 4,578,100| 2 | 2,092,000| 2 | 2,664,000| 2 | 2,496,800|

Dutch | 4 | 4,458,800| 5 | 5,943,200| 5 | 5,794,900| 4 | 4,179,600|

French | 1 | 466,600| 1 | 382,260| 3 | 1,728,900| 1 | 292,100|

Imperial | | | | | | | | |

Hungarian | | | | | | | | |

Tuscan |-- | -- -- |-- | -- -- |-- | -- -- |-- | -- -- |

Portugueze | | | | | | | | |

American | 1 | 695,000| 5 | 1,181,860| 2 | 750,900| 4 | 1,188,800|

Prussian |-- | -- -- |-- | -- -- | 1 | 499,300|-- | -- -- |

Spanish |-- | -- -- |-- | -- -- |-- | -- -- | 2 | 318,400|

Genoese |-- | -- -- |-- | -- -- |-- | -- -- |-- | -- -- |

+---+-----------+---+----------+---+----------+---+----------+

Total Foreign |13 |†16,410,900|14 |11,347,020|15 |14,328,900|15 |11,064,700|

English private| | | | | | | | |

Trade included|18 | 13,480,691|27 |20,610,919|29 |22,096,703|27 |20,141,745|

+---+-----------+---+----------+---+----------+---+----------+

|31 | 29,891,591|41 |31,957,939|44 |36,425,603|42 |31,206,445|

+---+-----------+---+----------+---+----------+---+----------+

---------------+---+----------+---+-----------+---+----------+

|#S | 1790. |#S.| 1791. |#S.| 1792. |

+---+----------+---+-----------+---+----------+

| | | | | | |

By Swedes |-- | -- -- |-- | -- -- | 1 | 1,591,330|

Danes | 1 | 1,773,000| 1 | 520,700|-- | -- -- |

Dutch | 5 | 5,106,900| 3 | 1,328,500| 2 | 2,051,330|

French | 1 | 294,300| 2 | 442,100| 4 | 784,000|

Imperial | | | | | | |

Hungarian | | | | | | |

Tuscan |-- | -- -- |-- | -- -- |-- | -- -- |

Portugueze | | | | | | |

American |14 | 3,093,200|-- | -- -- | 3 | 1,863,200|

Prussian |-- | -- -- | 3 | 743,100| 1 | 5,070|

Spanish |-- | -- -- |-- | -- -- | 1 | -- -- |

Genoese |-- | -- -- | 1 | 260|-- | -- -- |

+---+----------+---+-----------+---+----------+

Total Foreign |21 |10,267,400|10 | 3,034,660|12 | 6,294,930|

English private| | | | | | |

Trade included|21 |17,991,032|25 | 22,369,620|11 |13,185,467|

+---+----------+---+-----------+---+----------+

|42 |28,258,432|35 | 25,404,280|23 |19,480,397|

+---+----------+---+-----------+---+----------+

---------------+---+----------+---+-----------+---+-----------++

|#S.| 1793. |#S.| 1794. |#S.| 1795. ||

+---+----------+---+-----------+---+-----------++

| | | | | | ||

By Swedes | 1 | 1,559,730| 1 | 756,130| | ||

Danes | 1 | 852,670|-- | -- -- | 1 | 24,670||

Dutch | 3 | 2,938,530| 2 | 2,417,200| 4 | 4,096,800||

French | 2 | 1,540,670| | | | ||

Imperial | | | | | | ||

Hungarian | | | | | | ||

Tuscan | 1 | 393,870 | | | | ||

Portugueze | | | | | | ||

American | 6 | 1,538,400| 7 | 1,974,130| 7 | 1,438,270||

Prussian | | | | | | ||

Spanish | 3 | 400|-- | -- -- | 1 | ||

Genoese | 2 | 578,930| 2 | 289,470| 1 | 17,460||

+---+----------+---+-----------+---+-----------++

Total Foreign |19 | 9,403,200|12 | 5,436,930|14 | 5,577,200||

English private| | | | | | ||

Trade included|16 |16,005,414|18 | 20,728,705|21 | 23,733,810||

+---+----------+---+-----------+---+-----------++

|35 |25,408,614|30 | 26,165,635|35 | 29,311,010||

+---+----------+---+-----------+---+-----------++

† Most of these foreign ships went to China, previous to the Commutation

Act, which passed into effect in England in September, 1784.

‡ Part of these should have arrived in 1780.

It is probable that the Dutch, as they traded considerably to Japan

about the time Tea was introduced into Europe, first brought this

article from thence. But now China is the general mart, and the

province Fokien, or Fo-chen[22], the principal country, that supplies

both the Empire and Europe with this commodity.

SECTION V.

SOIL AND CULTURE.

To the ingenious Kæmpfer we are principally indebted for any accurate

information respecting the culture of the Tea Tree; and, as his

account was composed during his residence at Japan, greater credit is

certainly due to it. We shall give what he says upon this subject,

and then state the accounts we have been able to collect of the

Chinese method.

Kæmpfer tells us, that no particular gardens or fields are allotted

for this plant, but that it is cultivated round the borders of rice

and corn fields, without any regard to the soil. Any number of the

seeds, as they are contained in their seed vessels, not usually less

than six, or exceeding twelve or fifteen, are promiscuously put into

one hole, made four or five inches deep in the ground, at certain

distances from each other. The seeds contain a large proportion of

oil, which is soon liable to turn rancid; hence scarce a fifth part

of them germinate, and this makes it necessary to plant so many

together.

The seeds vegetate without any other care; but the more industrious

annually remove the weeds, and manure the land. The leaves which

succeed are not fit to be plucked before the third year’s growth, at

which period they are plentiful, and in their prime.

In about seven years the shrub rises to a man’s height; but as it

then bears few leaves, and grows slowly, it is cut down to the stem,

which occasions such an exuberance of fresh shoots and leaves the

succeeding summer, as abundantly compensates the owners for their

former loss and trouble. Some defer cutting them till they are of ten

years growth.

So far as can be gathered from authors and travellers of credit, this

shrub is cultivated and prepared in China, in a similar manner to

what is practised in Japan; but as the Chinese export considerable

quantities of Tea, they plant whole fields with it, to supply foreign

markets, as well as for home consumption.

The Tea-tree delights particularly in vallies; or on the declivities

of hills, and upon the banks of rivers, where it enjoys a southern

exposure to the sun; though it endures considerable variations of

heat and cold, as it flourishes in the northern clime of Pekin,

as well as about Canton[23], the former of which is in the same

latitude with Rome; and from meteorological observations it appears,

that the degree of cold about Pekin is as severe in winter, as in

some of the northern parts of Europe[24].

SECTION VI.

GATHERING THE LEAVES.

At the proper seasons for gathering the Tea leaves, labourers are

hired, who are very quick in plucking them, being accustomed to

follow this employment as a means of their livelihood. They do not

pluck them by handfuls, but carefully one by one; and, tedious as

this may appear, each person is able to collect from four to ten or

fifteen pounds in one day. The different periods in which the leaves

are usually gathered, are particularly described by Kæmpfer[25].

I. The first commences at the middle of the last moon, immediately

preceding the vernal equinox, which is the first month of the

Japanese year, and falls about the latter end of our February, or

beginning of March. The leaves collected at this time are called

Ficki Tsjaa, or powdered Tea, because they are pulverised and sipped

in hot water (SECT. IX. I). These tender young leaves are but a few

days old when they are plucked; and, because of their scarcity and

price, are disposed of to princes and rich people only; and hence

this kind is called Imperial Tea.

A similar sort is also called Udsi Tsjaa, and Tacke Sacki Tsjaa, from

the particular places where it grows. The peculiar care and nicety

observed in gathering the Tea leaves in these places deserve to be

noticed here, and we shall therefore give some account of one of them.

Udsi is a small Japanese town, bordering on the sea, and not far

distant from the city of Miaco. In the district of this little town,

is a pleasant mountain of the same name, which is thought to possess

the most favourable soil and climate for the culture of Tea, on which

account it is inclosed with hedges, and likewise surrounded with a

broad ditch for farther security. The trees are planted upon this

mountain in such a manner as to form regular rows, with intervening

walks. Persons are appointed to superintend the place, and preserve

the leaves from injury or dirt. The labourers who are to gather them,

for some weeks before they begin, abstain from every kind of gross

food, or whatever might endanger communicating any ill flavour to

the leaves; they pluck them also with the same delicacy, having on a

thin pair of gloves[26]. This sort of imperial or bloom Tea[27] is

afterwards prepared, and then escorted by the chief surveyor of the

works of this mountain, with a strong guard, and a numerous retinue,

to the emperor’s court, for the use of the Imperial family.

II. The second gathering is made in the second Japanese month,

about the latter end of March, or beginning of April. Some of the

leaves at this period are come to perfection, others not arrived at

their full growth; both however are promiscuously gathered, and are

afterwards sorted into different classes, according to their age,

size, and quality; the youngest particularly are carefully separated,

and are often sold for the first gathering or Imperial Tea. The tea

collected at this time is called Tootsjaa, or Chinese Tea, because

it is infused, and drank after the Chinese manner (SECT. IX. I.)

It is divided by the Tea-dealers and merchants into four kinds,

distinguished by as many names.

III. The third and last gathering is made in the third Japanese

month, which falls about our June, when the leaves are very plentiful

and full grown. This kind of Tea, called Ban Tsjaa, is the coarsest,

and is chiefly drank by the lower class of people (SECT. IX. III.)

Some confine themselves to two gatherings in the year, their first

and second answering the preceding second and third. Others have only

one general gathering[28], which they make also at the same time with

the preceding third or last gathering: however, the leaves collected

at each time, are respectively separated into different sortments.

The Chinese collect the Tea at certain seasons[29], but whether

the same as in Japan, we are not so well informed, most probably,

however, the Tea harvest is nearly at the same periods, as the

natives have frequent intercourse, and their commercial concerns with

each other are very extensive[30].

SECTION VII.

METHOD OF CURING OR PREPARING TEA IN JAPAN.

Public buildings, or drying houses, are erected for curing Tea,

and so regulated, that every person, who either has not suitable

conveniences, or wants the requisite skill, may bring his leaves at

any time to be dried. These buildings contain from five to ten or

twenty small furnaces, about three feet high, each having at the top

a large flat iron pan[31], either high, square, or round, bent up a

little on that side which is over the mouth of the furnace, which at

once secures the operator from the heat of the furnace, and prevents

the leaves from falling off.

There is also a long low table covered with matts, on which the

leaves are laid, and rolled by workmen, who sit round it. The iron

pan being heated to a certain degree by a little fire made in the

furnace underneath, a few pounds of the fresh-gathered leaves are put

upon the pan; the fresh and juicy leaves crack when they touch the

pan, and it is the business of the operator to shift them as quick

as possible with his bare hands, till they grow too hot to be easily

endured. At this instant he takes off the leaves, with a kind of

shovel resembling a fan, and pours them on the matts to the rollers,

who, taking small quantities at a time, roll them in the palms of

their hands in one direction, while others are fanning them, that

they may cool the more speedily, and retain their curl the longer[32].

This process is repeated two or three times, or oftener, before the

Tea is put in the stores, in order that all the moisture of the

leaves may be thoroughly dissipated, and their curl more completely

preserved. On every repetition the pan is less heated, and the

operation performed more slowly and cautiously[33]. The Tea is then

separated into the different kinds, and deposited in the store for

domestic use or exportation.

As the leaves of the Ficki Tea (SECT. VI. and IX. II.), are usually

reduced into a powder before they are drank, they should be roasted

to a greater degree of dryness. As some of these are gathered when

very young, tender, and small, they are first immersed in hot water,

taken out immediately, and dried without being rolled at all.

Country people cure their leaves in earthen kettles[34], which answer

every necessary purpose at less trouble and expence, whereby they are

enabled to sell them cheaper.

To complete the preparation, after the Tea has been kept for some

months, it must be taken out of the vessels, in which it had been

contained, and dried again over a very gentle fire, that it may be

deprived of any humidity which remained, or might since have been

contracted.

The common Tea is kept in earthen pots with narrow mouths; but

the best sort of Tea used by the Emperor and nobility is put in

porcellane or China vessels. The Bantsjaa, or coarsest Tea, is kept

by the country people in straw baskets, made in the shape of barrels,

which they place under the roofs of their houses, near the hole that

lets out the smoke, and imagine that this situation does not injure

the Tea.

This is the relation we have from Kæmpfer of the method in which the

Japanese collected and cured their Tea. In the accounts of China,

authors have in general treated very slightly of the cultivation and

preparation of Tea. Le Compte[35] indeed observes, that to have good

Tea, the leaves should be gathered while they are small, tender, and

juicy. They begin commonly to gather them in the months of March and

April, according as the season is forward; they afterwards expose

them to the steam of boiling water to soften them; and, as soon as

they are penetrated by it, they draw them over copper plates[36]

kept on the fire, which dries them by degrees, till they grow brown,

and roll up of themselves in that manner we see them.

However, it is certain, from the Chinese drawings, which exhibit

a faithful picture, though rudely executed, of the whole process

from beginning to end, that the Tea tree grows for the most part in

hilly countries, on their rocky summits, and steep declivities; and

it would seem by the pains the Chinese are at, in making paths, and

fixing a kind of scaffolds, to assist them, that these places afford

the finest Tea. It appears from these drawings, that the trees in

general are not much taller than man’s height: The gatherers of the

leaves are never represented but on the ground; they make use of

hooked sticks indeed, but these seem rather intended to draw the

branches towards them, when they hang over brooks, rivers, or from

places difficult of access, than to bend down the tops or upper

branches of the trees on plain ground.

They pick the leaves as soon as gathered into different sorts, and

cure them nearly in the manner described to be practised by the

Japanese. They build a range of stoves, like those in a chemist’s

laboratory, or great kitchen, where the men work, and curl the leaves

in the pans themselves. It seems also that they repeat the drying.

They dry it likewise, after having spread it abroad in shallow

baskets, in the sun; and, by the means of sieves, separate the larger

from the smaller leaves, and these again from the dust.

The Chinese put the finer kinds of Tea into conic vessels, like

sugar loaves, made of tutenaque, tin, or lead, covered with neat

matting of bamboo; or in square wooden boxes lined with thin lead,

dry leaves and paper, in which manner it is exported to foreign

countries. The common Tea is put into baskets, out of which it is

emptied, and packed up in boxes or chests as soon as it is sold to

the Europeans[37].

One thing should be mentioned to their credit; when their harvest of

Tea is finished, each family fails not to testify, by some religious

rite, their gratitude to the Giver.

SECTION VIII.

VARIETIES OF TEA.

It has been already observed (SECT. VI.) that many different

sortments of Tea are made during the times of collecting the

leaves; and these are multiplied according to the goodness of their

preparation, by which the varieties of Tea may be considerably

augmented[38]. The distinctions with us are much more limited, being

generally confined to three principal kinds of green, and five of

bohea.

I. Those of the former are,

I. Bing, imperial, or bloom Tea, with a large loose leaf, of a light

green colour, and faint delicate smell.

II. Hy-tiann, hi-kiong, or hayssuen, known to us by the name of Hyson

Tea, so called after an East-India merchant of that name, who first

imported it into Europe. The leaves are closely curled and small, of

a green colour, verging towards blue[39].

III. Singlo, or songlo, which name it receives, like many other Teas,

from the place where it is cultivated.

II. The bohea Teas.

I. Soochuen, or sutchong, by the Chinese called saatyang, and

sact-chaon, or su-tyann, is a superior kind of long-fou Tea. It

imparts a yellowish green colour, by infusion[40].

II. Camho, or soumlo, called after the name of the place where it is

gathered; a fragrant Tea with a violet smell. Its infusion is pale.

III. Cong-fou, congo, or bong-fo. This has a larger leaf than the

following, and the infusion is a little deeper coloured. It resembles

the common bohea in the colour of the leaf[41].

IV. Pekao, pecko, or pekoe, by the Chinese called back-ho, or

pack-ho. It is known by having the appearance of small white flowers

intermixed with it.

V. Common bohea, called moji by the Chinese, consists of leaves of

one colour[42].

III. There has also been imported a sort of Tea, in balls, of a

different form from any of the preceding, made up into cakes or

balls of different sizes, by the Chinese called Poncultcha.

I. The largest kind of this cake Tea, that I have seen, weighs about

two ounces; the infusion and taste resemble those of good bohea Tea.

II. Another sort, which is a kind of green Tea, is called tio tè: it

is rolled up in a round shape, about the size of peas, and sometimes

as large as a nutmeg.

III. The smallest kind done in this form is called gun-powder Tea.

IV. Sometimes the succulent Tea leaves are twisted into cords like

packthread, about an inch and a half or two inches long; and usually

three of these are tied together at the ends by different-coloured

silk threads. These resemble little bavins, one of which might

suffice for tea for one person. I have seen them both of green and

bohea Tea.

* * * * *

The Chinese likewise prepare an extract from Tea, which they exhibit

as a medicine dissolved in a large quantity of water, and ascribe to

it many powerful effects in fevers and other disorders, when they

wish to procure a plentiful sweat. This extract is sometimes formed

into small cakes, not much broader than a sixpence, sometimes into

rolls of a considerable size.

That there is only one species of Tea tree, has already been

mentioned (SECT. I.) from which all the varieties of Tea are

procured. Kæmpfer, who is of this opinion, attributes the difference

of Teas to the soil and culture of the plant, age of the leaves when

gathered, and method of curing them[43]. These circumstances will

severally have more or less influence; though whether they account

for all the varieties observable in Tea may be doubted. The bohea Tea

trees, now introduced into many botanic gardens near London, exhibit

very obvious varieties. The leaves are of a deeper green colour, and

not so deeply serrated; the stalk is usually of a darker colour, and

the whole shrub appears less luxuriant as represented in the annexed

plate of the bohea Tea; but the botanical characters are the same.

[Illustration: Bohea Tea.]

I infused all the sorts of green and bohea Teas I could procure, and

expanded the different leaves on paper, to compare their respective

size and texture, intending thereby to discover their age. I found

the leaves of green Tea as large as those of bohea, and nearly as

fibrous; which would lead one to suspect, that the difference does

not so much depend upon the age, as upon the other circumstances.

We know that in Europe the soil, culture, and exposure, have great

influence on all kinds of vegetables: but the same species of plants

differ in the same province, and even in the same district; and in

Japan, and particularly along the continent of China, it must be

much more considerable, where the air is in some parts very cold, in

others moderate, or warm almost to an extreme. I am persuaded that

the method of preparation must also have no little influence. I have

dried the leaves of some European plants in the manner described

(SECT. VI.) which so much resembled the foreign Tea, that the

infusion made from them has been seen and drunk without suspicion.

In these preparations which I made, some of the leaves retained a

perfect curl, and a fine verdure like the best green Tea; and others

cured at the same time were more like the bohea[44].

I would not, however, lay too much stress upon the result of a few

trials, nor endeavour to preclude further enquiries about a subject

which at some future period may prove of more immediate concern to

this nation.

We might still try to discover whether other arts, than are yet known

here, are not used with Tea before its exportation from China, to

produce the difference of colour[45], and flavour[46], peculiar to

different sorts. An intelligent friend of mine informs me, that in a

set of Chinese drawings, in his possession, representing the whole

process of manufacturing Tea, there are in one sheet the figures of

several persons apparently separating the different kinds of Tea,

and drying it in the sun, with several baskets landing near them

filled with a very white substance, and in considerable quantity.

To what use this may be applied is uncertain, as well as what the

substance is; yet there is no doubt, he thinks, that it is used in

the manufacturing of Tea, as the Chinese seldom bring any thing into

their pieces but such as relate in some respect to the business

before them.

[Illustration: Olea Fragrans.

_J. Miller del: et so:_]

We are better acquainted with a vegetable substance which has been

employed by the Asiatics in giving a flavour to Tea. This is the

Olea Fragrans, whose flowers are frequently to be met with in Teas

exported from China: and as the plant is now not unfrequent in the

gardens near the metropolis, I am enabled to give an engraving of the

plant and its botanical history[47].

OLEA FRAGRANS.--Sweet-scented Olive.

_Class and Order._

DIANDRIA MONOGYNIA.

_Generic Character._

_Cor._ 4. fida: laciniis

subovatis.

_Drupa_ monosperma.

_Corol._ 4. cleft: segments

somewhat ovate.

_Drupe_, one-seeded.

_Specific Character and Description from_ THUNBERG.

OLEA _fragrans_ foliis lanceolatis

serratis, pedunculis lateralibus

aggregatis unifloris. _Thunb._

_Fl. Japon._ p. 18, t. 2.

_Caulis_, arboreus vastus.

_Rami_ et ramuli trichotomi,

obsolete tetragoni, glabri.

_Folia_ decussata, petiolata oblonga,

acuta, serrata, margini

subreflexo, parallelo-nervosa, reticulata,

glabra, supra saturate

viridia, subtus pallidiora, patentia,

in ramulis frequentia, digitalia.

_Petioli_ semiteretes, sulcati,

glabri, semiunguiculares.

_Flores_ in ramulis umbellato-aggregati,

circiter 6 vel 8, pedunculati.

_Pedunculi_ filiformes, uniflori,

glabri, albidi, unguiculares.

_Perianthium_, 1-Phyllum, minimum,

obsolete 4-dentatum,

albidum, glabrum.

_Corolla_, 1-petala, rotata, flavo-alba;

_Tubus_ subnullus; _Limbus_

patens, quadrifidus: laciniæ

ovatæ, obtusæ, concavæ,

crassiusculæ.

_Filamenta_ duo, ori tubi inserta,

alba, brevissima.

_Antheræ_ ovatæ, grandiusculæ,

didymæ, flavescentes.

_Germen_ superum, oblongum,

glabrum.

_Stylus_ filiformis.

_Stigmata_ simplicia, acuta.

OLIVE _sweet-scented_ with

lanceolate serrated leaves, peduncles

lateral, cluttered, one-flowered.

_Stem_, a vast tree.

_Branches_ both large and small

trichotomous, faintly four-cornered

and smooth.

_Leaves_ growing cross-wise on

leaf-stalks, oblong, acute, serrated,

edge somewhat turned

back, ribs parallel, reticulated,

smooth above, of a deep green

colour, paler beneath, spreading

on the small branches, numerous,

about the length of

the finger.

_Leaf-stalks_, flat on one side,

round on the other, grooved,

smooth, half the length of the

finger nail.

_Flower_ on the small branches

in clustered umbels, about 6 or

8 together, standing on peduncles.

_Flower-stalks_ filiform, one-flowered,

smooth, whitish, a

finger nail in length.

_Perianthium_, one-leaved, very

minute, faintly four-toothed,

whitish and smooth.

_Corolla_ of one petal, wheel-shaped,

of a yellowish-white

colour; _Tube_ scarce any; _Limb_

spreading, quadrifid, segments

ovate, obtuse, concave, thickish.

_Filaments_ two, inserted into

the mouth of the tube, white,

very short.

_Antheræ_ ovate, somewhat

large, double, yellowish.

_Germen_ above, oblong, and

smooth.

_Style_ filiform.

_Stigmata_, simple and pointed.

Sir George Staunton, in his Embassy to China, Vol. II. p. 467,

describes another Plant, whose flowers are used for the purpose of

scenting Tea. The flower resembles the dog-rose, and the leaves those

of Tea; hence the Chinese call it Cha-whaw, or flower of Tea. A Plate

of this Plant is annexed, with the following description, which this

very accurate and learned traveller has obligingly permitted me to

introduce here.

[Illustration: _Camellia Sesanqua._]

“A Plant very like the Tea flourished at this time on the tides and

the very tops of mountains, where the soil consisted of little more

than fragments of stone crumbled into a sort of coarse earth by

the joint action of the sun and rain. The Chinese call this plant

Cha-whaw, or Flower of Tea, on account of the resemblance of one to

the other; and because its petals, as well as the entire flowers of

the Arabian jessamine, are sometimes mixed among the Teas, in order

to increase their fragrance.

“This plant, the Cha-whaw, is the Camellia Sesanqua of the botanists,

and yields a nut, from whence is expressed an esculent oil equal to

the best which comes from Florence. It is cultivated on this account

in vast abundance; and is particularly valuable, from the facility of

its culture, in situations fit for little else.” It is delineated on

the opposite page.

As green Tea is by some suspected to have been cured on copper, they

have attributed the verdure to be derived from that metal (SECT.

VII.); but, if there were any foundation for this supposition, the

volatile alkali, mixed with an infusion of such Tea, would detect the

least portion of copper, by turning the infusion blue[48].

Others have, with less propriety, attributed the verdure to green

copperas[49]; but this ingredient, which is only salt of iron, would

immediately turn the leaves black, and the infusion made from the Tea

would be of a deep purple colour[50].

Is it not more probable, that some green dye, prepared from vegetable

substances, is used for the colouring?

SECTION IX.

DRINKING OF TEA.

Neither the Chinese, nor natives of Japan, ever use Tea before it has

been kept at least a year; because when fresh it is said to prove

narcotic, and to disorder the senses[51]. The former pour hot water

on the Tea, and draw off the infusion in the same manner as is now

practised in Europe; but they drink it simply without the addition of

sugar or milk[52]. The Japanese reduce the Tea into a fine powder,

by grinding the leaves in a hand-mill; they then mix them with hot

water into a thin pulp, in which form it is sipped[53], particularly

by the nobility and rich people. It is made and served up to company

in the following manner: the Tea-table furniture, with the powdered

Tea inclosed in a box, are set before the company, and the cups are

then filled with hot water, and as much of the powder as might lie

on the point of a moderate-sized knife is taken out of the box, put

into each cup, and then stirred and mixed together with a curious

denticulated instrument till the liquor foams, in which state it is

presented to the company, and sipped while warm[54]. From what Du

Halde relates, this method is not peculiar to the Japanese, but is

also used in some provinces of China[55].

The common people, who have a coarser Tea (SECT. VI. III.) boil it

for some time in water, and make use of the liquor for common drink.

Early in the morning the kettle, filled with water, is regularly

hung over the fire for this purpose, and the Tea is either put into

the kettle inclosed in a bag, or, by means of a basket of a proper

size, pressed to the bottom of the vessel, that there may not be any

hindrance in drawing off the water. The Bantsjaa Tea (SECT. VI. III.)

only is used in this manner, whose virtues, being more fixed, would

not be so fully extracted by infusion.

And indeed Tea is the common beverage of all the labouring people in

China: one scarcely ever sees them represented at work of any kind,

but the Tea pot and Tea cup appear as their accompaniments. Reapers,

threshers, and all who work out of doors, as well as within, have

these attendants[56].

To make Tea, and to serve it in a genteel and graceful manner, is an

accomplishment, in which people of both sexes in Japan are instructed

by masters, in the same manner as Europeans are in dancing, and other

branches of polite education.

SECTION X.

SUCCEDANEA.

Curiosity and interest would mutually induce the Europeans to make

the most diligent enquiries in order to discover the real Tea

shrub, or a substitute in some other vegetable most resembling it.

Simon Paulli, a celebrated physician and botanist at Copenhagen,

was the first who pretended to have discovered the real Tea plant

in Europe. By opening some Tea leaves, he found them so much like

those of the Dutch myrtle[57], (Flor. Su. 907.) that he obstinately

maintained they were productions of the same species of Tea; though

he was afterwards refuted by several botanists in Europe, and by

the specimens sent to him, and to Dr. Mentzel of Berlin, from the

East-Indies, by Dr. Cleyer[58].

Father Labat next thought he had discovered the real Tea-plant in

Martinico[59], agreeing, he says, in all respects with the China

sort. He pretends also to have procured Tea seeds from the East

Indies, and to have raised the plant in America; but, from his

own account, this supposed Tea appears to be only a species of

Lysimachia, or what is called West-India Tea[60].

Many other pretended discoveries of the Oriental Tea-tree have been

related; all which have proved erroneous, when properly enquired

into. The genus of plant, called by Kæmpfer Tsubakki[61], has the

nearest resemblance to it. The leaves of several European herbs

have been used at different times as substitutes for Tea, either

from some similarity in the shape of the leaves, or in the taste

and flavour; among these, two or three species of Veronica are

particularly recommended[62], besides the leaves of sage[63],

myrtle[64], betony[65], sloe[66], agrimony, wild rose[67], and many

others[68]. Whether any of these are really more salutary or not, is

undetermined; and we now find, that from the palace to the cottage

every other substitute has yielded to the genuine Asiatic Tea[69].

SECTION XI.

PRESERVING THE SEEDS FOR VEGETATION.

Many attempts to introduce the Tea-tree into Europe have proved

unsuccessful, owing to the bad state of the seeds when first

procured, or to a want of judgement in preserving them long enough

in a state capable of vegetation. If this complaint arise from the

first cause, future precautions about such seeds will be in vain; it

is therefore necessary to procure fresh, sound, ripe seeds, white,

plump, and moist internally.

Two methods of preserving the seeds have put us in possession of a

few young plants of the true Tea-tree of China; one is, by inclosing

the seeds in bees wax, after they have been well dried in the sun;

and the other, by putting them, included in their pods, or capsules,

into very close cannisters made of tin and tutenague[70].

[Illustration: Boxes for conveying Plants by Sea.

_The Box with plants shut down with the openings

at the ends and front left for fresh air._

_The Cask for serving seeds with the

openings defended by Wire._

_The Inside of the box shewing the manner of securing the roots

of plants surrounded with earth & moss tied with packthread

and fasten’d cross & cross with laths or packthread to keep them

steady._

_The Box with divisions for serving

different seeds in earth & cut moss._]

But neither of these methods have succeeded generally,

notwithstanding the utmost care, both in getting fresh seeds, and in

securing them in the most effectual manner. The best method is to

sow the ripe seeds in good light earth, in boxes, at leaving Canton;

covering them with wire, to prevent rats and other such vermin

coming to them. The boxes, plans of which are annexed, should not be

exposed to too much air, nor to the spray of the sea, if possible.

The earth should not be suffered to grow dry and hard, but a little

fresh or rain water may be sprinkled over it now and then; and, when

the seedling plants appear, they should be kept moist, and out of

the burning sun[71]. Most of the plants now in England were procured

by these means; and though many of the seedlings will die, yet by

this kind of management we may probably succeed in bringing over the

most curious vegetable productions of China, of which they have an

amazing treasure, both in respect to use, shew, and variety[72]. If

young plants could be procured in China, they might be sent over in a

growing state in some of these boxes.

The young Tea-plants in the gardens about London thrive very well in

the green-houses in winter, and some bear the open air in summer. The

leaves of many of them are from one to three inches long, not without

a fine deep verdure; and the young shoots are succulent. It is

therefore probable, that in a few years many layers may be procured

from them, and the number of plants considerably increased thereby.

It may not be improper to observe here, that many exotic vegetables,

like human constitutions, require a certain period before they become

naturalized to a change of climate; many plants, which on their

first introduction would not bear our winters without shelter, now

endure our hardest frosts; the beautiful magnolia, among several

others, is a proof of this observation; and we have already taken

notice (SECT. V.), that the degree of cold at Pekin sometimes exceeds

ours. We have hence reason to expect, that the Tea-tree may in a few

years be capable of bearing our climate, or at least that of our

colonies; at length thrive, as if indigenous to the soil; and, were

labour cheaper, become an article of export[73], like the common

potatoe, for which we are indebted to America, or Spain[74]. It is,

however, better suited for the climates of the Southern parts of

Europe, and America; but hitherto it has not been cultivated in an

extensive manner, in either of these quarters of the world; nor is

it likely ever to be, whilst it can be procured from Asia at the

present reduced price. It was introduced into Georgia about the year

1770. Hence the ingenious author of Ouabi (Mrs. Morton) in her recent

poem of Beave-hill, in describing the products of this province,

introduces the exotic of China:

“Yet round these shores prolific plenty twines,

Stores the thick field, and swells the cluttering vines;

A thousand groves their glossy leaves unfold,

Where the rich orange rolls its ruddy gold,

_China’s green shrub_, divine Magnolia’s bloom,

With mingling odours fling their high perfume.”

It is indeed probable that the North American summers, in the same

latitude with Pekin, would suit this Tree better than ours; for, in

China and some parts of North America, the heat in summer is such,

that vegetables make quicker and more early shoots, whereby they have

time to acquire sufficient strength and firmness before the winter

commences: but, in England, the tender shoots are puttied forth late,

and, winter soon after succeeding, they often perish, in a degree of

cold much less severe than at Pekin, or in colder latitudes of North

America.

THE

MEDICAL HISTORY

OF

TEA.

PART II.

SECTION I.

As the custom of drinking Tea is become general, every person may be

considered as a judge of its effects, at least so far as it concerns

his own health; but, as the constitutions of mankind are various, the

effects of this infusion must be different also, which is the reason

that so many opinions have prevailed upon the subject.

Many, who have once conceived a prejudice against it, suffer it

to influence their judgement too far, and condemn the custom as

universally pernicious. Others, who are no less biassed on the other

extreme, would make their own private experience a standard for that

of all, and ascribe the most extensive virtues to this infusion.

This contrariety of opinion has been particularly maintained among

physicians[75]; which will ever be the case, while mere suppositions

are placed in the room of experiments and facts impartially related.

Some physicians, however, avoid both extremes; who, without

commending it, or decrying it universally, admit its use, while they

are not insensible of the injuries it may produce. It requires no

small share of sagacity to fix the limits of good and harm in the

present case: multitudes of all ages, constitutions, and complexions,

drink it freely, during a long life, without perceiving any ill

effects. Others, again, soon experience many inconveniences from

drinking any considerable quantity of this infusion.

It is difficult to draw certain conclusions from experiments made on

this herb. The parts which seem to produce these opposite effects are

very fugitive. We become acquainted chiefly with the grosser parts by

analysis. I made the following experiments with considerable care;

but, I own, they inform us not sufficiently wherein consists that

grateful relaxing sedative property, which proves to the generality

of mankind so refreshing; nor from whence it is, that others feel

from the pleasing beverage so many disagreeable effects. Accurate

observation would instruct us in this difficult investigation, more

than simple experiments on the subject itself.

EXPERIMENT I.

I took an equal quantity of an infusion of superfine green Tea, and

of common bohea Tea, made equally strong; and also the same quantity

of the liquor remaining after distillation (SECT. III. I.), and of

simple water; into each of which, contained in separate vessels, I

put two drachms of beef, that had been killed about two days.

The beef, which was immersed in the simple water, became putrid

in forty-eight hours; but the pieces in the two infusions of Tea,

and in the liquor remaining after distillation, shewed no signs of

putrefaction, till after about seventy hours[76].

EXPERIMENT II.

Into strong infusions of every kind of green and bohea Tea that I

could procure, I put equal quantities of salt of iron (sal martis),

which immediately changed the several infusions into a deep purple

colour[77].

It is evident from these experiments, that both green and bohea

Tea possess an antiseptic (EXPERIMENT I.), and astringent power

(EXPERIMENT II.), applied to the dead animal fibre.

The Natural History of the Tea-Tree, with Observations on the Medical Qualities of Tea, and on the Effects of Tea-Drinking · 第 1 / 16 章