Having a few weeks vacation at the theatre, we agreed upon a scheme to
give three concerts at Lancaster, a town in Pennsylvania, about seventy
miles west of this city. Our band was small, but select; and our singers
Darley, and miss Broadhurst. We crossed the Scuylkill about two miles
below the Falls.
The country, which, from the Atlantic to this spot, is nearly a level, now
abruptly swells into hills, and rises as you advance westerly, till you
reach the Allegany mountains, the great _back bone_ of America, as
the Indians call that chain of mountains. There is then a considerable
descent; but that the country rises afterward for many hundred miles is
certain from the course of the rivers. No traveller has penetrated so far
west, in these latitudes, as to find a river which did not ultimately run
into the Atlantic Ocean,
We slept about a mile from the _Pioli_. I took a walk to reconnoitre
the field of battle, with one who was present at that horrid affair.
General Wayne was here completely surprised, but had his revenge at Stoney
Point.
After St. Claire's defeat, he was appointed by Congress to the command of
the continental army in the present indian war. The fatal surprise at the
Pioli has been an excellent lesson for him; since his present appointment
he has established the most rigid discipline: this is of the utmost
consequence in any army; but particularly so in _that_ he commands,
as they have to contend with the most subtle and desperate foe on earth,
flushed with their late victory over St. Claire.--In a former indian war,
an army lay with it's rear and flanks well secured; a river three quarters
of a mile broad in its front, and no enemy within fifty miles. A body of
Indians, being informed by their scouts of the situation of this army,
made a forced march, crossed the river in the night, on rafts hastily
constructed, completely surprised the camp before sun-rise in the morning,
butchered all before them, and made their retreat good with their scalps
and plunder, before the enemy recovered from the general consternation.
The system of military tactics Wayne has introduced is admirably adapted
to the perilous service, in which he is engaged. He fights the Indians in
their own way, and scalps are now taken on both sides.--There is expected
to be warm work this campaign; and it is generally imagined Wayne will
meet with the fate of Braddock and St. Clare. A few military men I have
discoursed with, are of another opinion; they tell me the rifle-men of the
western army were recruited from Kentucky, and other remote settlements,
and are all experienced _back-woods-men_, who have been great part of
their lives in the habits of Indian fighting; that the general is forming
a body of cavalry, on principles entirely new, from which much is
expected; in short, that Wayne will oblige the Indians to _bury the
hatchet_ on his own terms. The Indian war is not popular. It has met
with much opposition both in the General Assemblies of the States, and in
Congress.
The devastation that has (even within the present century) taken place
among the brave and independent aborigines of this continent, is really
shocking to humanity[Footnote: The Cherokees are by no means the
formidable body of warriors they were 40 years ago. The original
possessors of the vast tract of land which forms North Carolina, are
reduced to a single family; and several tribes of the eastern Indians
actually exterminated.].
I spent the evening at the Pioli, with a surgeon of the american army
lately from the scene of action; he gave me a disgusting account of the
misunderstanding that subsists between the american citizens on the
frontiers, and their neighbours in Upper Canada. It seems the Canadians
are accused of assisting the indians in the decisive action against St.
Clare.
As many of the descendants of the original french settlers have indian
blood in their veins, the charge is not improbable, as far as relates to a
few _individuals_, but that they received either the connivance, or
protection of _government_, (as the Americans assert) is totally
without foundation.
I never take up a western newspaper that does not teem with the most
illiberal abuse of the british government. It would therefore be
impossible to exonorate certain american citizens from _their share of
provocation_, and a wish to blow up the hardly-extinguished embers of
the late war. This temper is kept alive by french agents, who use every
means of inflaming the public mind, by the most flagrant exaggerations of
the late captures, &c.: and so successful have they been in their
misrepresentations, that a war with England would at this time be very
popular.
_Aug. 30th_.--You can conceive nothing more beautifully romantic,
than the appearance of the country during the latter part of this day's
journey. The hills, bold, rounding, and lofty, are covered with wood to
their very summit. In the midst of this wild scenery is the mighty
_Susquana_, above a mile wide, dashing over rocks and precipices,
seventy or eighty miles distant from the flow of the tide. A similar body
of running water, perfectly clear and transparent, with so many hundred
cascades as beautify the Susquana, is perhaps no where else to be met
with. Unfortunately these very beauties render the navigation of this
noble river impracticable.
_Aug. 31st_.--Arrived at Lancaster, a prettily situate town, of about
nine hundred houses. It is reckoned the largest inland town south of New
England, and indeed the only large town without some kind of navigation;
to remedy this inconvenience as much as possible, a turnpike road (very
superiour to any thing of the kind in America, and which will cost three
thousand dollars per mile,) is forming from Philadelphia, through
Lancaster, to the Susquana. I before told you this river, owing to the
rocks and falls, was not navigable; but I forgot to inform you, that the
inhabitants of the back country contrive to waft the produce of their
plantations down the river on floats, during the floods, in spring and
fall; which will be conveyed by means of this new road to Philadelphia,
whence it will be exported to the west indian or european markets.
The only manufactory in Lancaster is one of rifles; they have contracted
to supply the continental army with these _"mortal engines."_
I have heard a hundred improbable stories relative to what was done with
the rifle by famous marksmen in America, such as shooting an apple from a
child's head, &c; to which I could not give credit: but, I have no reason
to doubt the following feat: as it was actually performed before many
hundred inhabitants of this borough, and the adjacent country.--During the
late war, in the year 1775, a company of riflemen, formed from the back
woodsmen of Virginia, were quartered here for some time: two of them
_alternately_ held a board only nine inches square between his knees,
while his comrade fired a ball through it from a distance of one hundred
paces! The board is still preserved; and I am assured by several who were
present, that it was performed without any manner of deception.
Lancaster was originally a german settlement; the inhabitants were so
desirous of perpetuating their language, that they established german
schools for the education of the rising generation; but their descendants,
finding the inconvenience of being without a knowledge of English, now
send their children first to the german, and afterward to the english
schools; by which means they acquire a tolerable idea of both languages.
They still retain many characteristics of their ancestors; such as
frugality, plainness in dress, &c. At our first concert, three
clownish-looking fellows came into the room, and, after sitting a few
minutes, (the weather being _warm_, not to say _hot_) very composedly took
off their coats: they were in the usual summer dress of farmers servants
in this part of the country; that is to say, _without_ either stockings or
breeches, a loose pair of trowsers being the only succedaneum. As we fixed
our admission at a dollar each, (here seven shillings and sixpence,) we
expected this circumstance would be sufficient to exclude _such_
characters; but on inquiry, I found (to my very great surprise!) our three
_sans culottes_ were german _gentlemen_ of considerable property in the
neighbourhood!
They manage these matters better at Hanover; (a settlement of germans
about forty miles hence.) One of the articles of their dancing assembly
is in these words; "No gentleman to enter the ball-room without
_breeches_, or to be allowed to dance without his _coat_."
All the back parts of Pennsylvania were in general cleared, and settled by
german, and irish emigrants; but the former are commonly more prosperous
than their neighbours, whom they excel in sobriety and economy, and have
also a much better understanding amongst themselves.
An irish family often arrives, and purchases a plantation; which for some
years brings them good crops, but for want of manure will in time be worn
out (a very common case in America.) When in this situation they offer it
for sale, the adjacent german families club a sum of money, purchase the
land, plough it well, and let it remain in this state for three or four
years: they then place an emigrant family from their _own country_
upon the farm, who, by indefatigable industry and manure, soon bring the
land round, pay for the estate by installments, and live very comfortably.
Some of the best plantations in Pennsylvania were originally left in this
manner. The irish family go two or three hundred miles up the country,
where they can purchase as much land as they please, from sixpence to a
dollar per acre: here they literally _break fresh ground_, and begin
the world again. To some timorous people, their new situation would be
thought dangerous, as they are liable to a visit from the Indians, and
perishing by the scalping knife and tomahawk.--See a former letter on back
settlers.
_Aug. 6th_.--We returned to Philadelphia, not _overloaded_ with _cash_,
but with more than was sufficient for our expenses, which, owing to
several excursions from Lancaster, were not trifling.--Farewel.--Believe
me
Yours very sincerely.
* * * * *
_Philadelphia, 14th August, 1794._