IN CROSSING THE BAR AT SENEGAL THE BOAT IS UPSET BY A TORNADO--WE ESCAPE
BEING DEVOURED BY SHARKS ONLY TO BE CAPTURED BY THE NATIVES--ARE TAKEN
INTO THE INTERIOR OF THE COUNTRY, AND BROUGHT BEFORE THE NEGRO KING,
FROM WHOSE WRATH WE ARE SAVED BY THE INTERCESSION OF HIS FEMALE
ATTENDANTS.
A day or two after we had arrived, the master of another vessel that was
at anchor near to us came on board and borrowed our long-boat and some
hands that he might go in it to Senegal. The captain, who was an old
friend of the party who made the request, agreed to lend it to him, and
as accidents are very frequent with boats crossing the bar, on account
of the heavy breakers, the best swimmers were selected for the purpose,
and the charge of the boat was given to me. We set off, five men rowing
and I at the helm. When we approached the bar, a tornado, which had
been for some time threatening, came upon us. The impetuosity of these
blasts is to be matched in no part of the world, and as it came at once
in its full force, we endeavoured, by putting the boat before it, to
escape its fury. This compelled us to run to the southward along the
coast. We managed to keep the boat up for a long while, and hoped to
have weathered it, when, being on the bar, and in broken water, a large
wave curled over us, filled the boat, and it went down in an instant.
Our only chance now was to reach the shore by swimming, but it was at a
distance, with broken water the whole way; and our great terror was from
the sharks, which abound on the coast and are extremely ravenous--nor
were we without reason for our alarm. Scarcely had the boat gone down,
and we were all stretching out for the shore, when one of our men
shrieked, having been seized by the sharks, and instantly torn to
pieces. His blood stained the water all around, and this attracting all
the sharks proved the means of our escape. Never shall I forget the
horrible sensation which I felt as I struggled through the broken water,
expecting every minute a limb to be taken off by one of those voracious
animals. If one foot touched the other, my heart sunk, thinking it was
the nose of a shark, and that its bite would immediately follow.
Agonised with these terrors, we struggled on--now a large wave curling
over us and burying us under water, or now forced by the waves towards
the beach, rolling us over and over. So battered were we by the surf,
that we dived under the waves to escape the blows which we received, and
then rose and struck out again. At last, worn out with exertion, we
gained the shore, but our toil was not over.
The beach was of a sand so light that it crumbled beneath us, and at the
return of the wave which threw us on shore we were dragged back again
and buried in sand and water. We rose to renew our endeavours, but
several times without success, for we could not obtain a firm footing.
At last the Negroes, who had witnessed our accident, and who now came
down in great numbers on the beach, laid hold of us as the sea threw us
up, and dragged us beyond the reach of the waves. Worn out with fatigue
we lay on the sand, waiting to ascertain what the savages would do with
us; they were not long in letting us know, for they soon began to strip
us of every article of clothing on our backs. One of our men attempted
to resist, upon which a Negro drove a spear through his thigh.
Having divided our apparel, after some consultation, they tied our
hands, and placing us in the midst of a large force, armed with spears
and bows and arrows, they went off with us for the inland part of the
country. We set off with heavy hearts; taking, as we thought, a last
farewell of the ocean, and going forwards in great apprehension of the
fate that awaited us. The sand was very deep, and the heat of the sun
excessive, for it was then about noon. Without any garments, we were
soon scorched and blistered all over, and in intolerable anguish, as
well as fatigued; but the Negroes compelled us to move on, goading us
with their spears if we slackened our pace, and threatening to run us
through if we made a halt. We longed for the night, as it would afford
a temporary relief to our sufferings. It came at last, and the Negroes
collected wood and lighted a fire to keep off the wild beasts, lying
round it in a circle, and placing us in the midst of them. We hoped to
have some rest after what we had gone through, but it was impossible--
the night proved even worse than the day. The mosquitoes came down upon
us in such swarms, and their bites were so intolerable, that we were
almost frantic. Our hands being tied, we could not beat them off and we
rolled over and over to get rid of them. This made matters worse, for
our whole bodies being covered with raised blisters, from the rays of
the sun, our rolling over and over broke the blisters, and the sand
getting into the wounds, added to the bites of the mosquitoes, made our
sufferings intolerable. We had before prayed for night, we now prayed
for day. Some prayed for death.
When the sun rose, we set off again, our conductors utterly disregarding
our anguish, and goading us on as before. In the forenoon we arrived at
a village, where our guards refreshed themselves; a very small quantity
of boiled corn was given to each of us, and we continued our journey,
passing by several small towns, consisting, as they all do in that
country, of huts built of reeds, round in form, and gathered to a point
at top. This day was the same as the preceding. We were pricked with
spears if we stumbled or lagged, threatened with death if we had not
strength to go on. At last the evening arrived, and the fires were
lighted. The fires were much larger than before, I presume because the
wild beasts were more numerous, for we heard them howling in every
direction round us, which we had not done on the night before. The
mosquitoes did not annoy us so much, and we obtained some intervals of
broken rest. At daylight we resumed our journey, as near as we could
judge by the sun, in a more easterly direction.
During the first two days we were badly received by the inhabitants of
the towns, whose people had been kidnapped so often for the slave-trade;
they hated the sight of our white faces, for they presumed that we had
come for that purpose; but as we advanced in the interior, we were
better treated, and the natives looked upon us with surprise and wonder,
considering us as a new race of beings. Some of the women, seeing how
utterly exhausted we were with fatigue and hunger, looked with
compassion on us, and brought us plenty of boiled corn and goats' milk
to drink. This refreshed us greatly, and we continued our journey in
anxious expectation of the fate for which we were reserved.
On crossing a small river, which appeared to be the boundary of two
different states, a multitude of Negroes approached, and seemed disposed
to take us from our present masters, but after a conference, they agreed
among themselves, and a party of them joined with those who had
previously conducted us. We soon came to the edge of a desert, and
there we halted till the Negroes had filled several calabashes and
gourds full of water, and collected a quantity of boiled corn. As soon
as this was done, we set off again, and entered the desert. We were
astonished and terrified when we looked around us, not a single vestige
of herbage, not a blade of grass was to be seen--all was one wide waste
of barren sand, so light as to rise in clouds at the least wind, and we
sank so deep in walking through it that at last we could hardly drag one
foot after the other. But we were repaid for our fatigue, for when we
halted at night, no fires were lighted, and to our great delight we
found that there were no mosquitoes to annoy us. We fell into a sound
sleep, which lasted till morning, and were much refreshed; indeed, so
much so as to enable us to pursue our journey with alacrity.
In our passage over the desert we saw numbers of elephants' teeth, but
no animals. How the teeth came there, unless it were that the elephants
were lost in attempting to cross the desert, I cannot pretend to say.
Before we had crossed the desert, our water was expended, and we
suffered dreadfully from thirst, walking as we did during the whole day
under a vertical sun. The night was equally painful, as we were so
tortured with the want of water; but on the following day, when our
strength was nearly exhausted, and we were debating whether we should
not lie down and allow the spears of our conductors to put an end to our
miseries, we came to the banks of a river which the Negroes had
evidently been anxiously looking for. Here we drank plentifully, and
remained all the day to recruit ourselves, for the Negroes were almost
as exhausted as we were. The next morning we crossed the river, and
plunged into a deep wood: the ground being high, the mosquitoes did not
annoy us so much as they did down on the low marshy land near the
sea-coast. During our traverse through the wood we subsisted solely
upon the birds and animals which the Negroes killed with their bows and
arrows.
When we had forced our way through the forest, we found the country, as
before, interspersed with wicker villages or small hamlets at a few
miles' distance from each other. Round each village there were small
patches of Guinea corn, and we frequently came to clusters of huts which
had been deserted. Between the sea-coast and the desert we had
traversed we observed that many of the inhabitants had European
fire-arms, but now the only weapons to be seen were spears and bows and
arrows. As we advanced we were surrounded at every village by the
natives, who looked upon us with surprise and astonishment, examining
us, and evidently considering us a new species. One morning we arrived
at a very large Negro town, and as we approached, our guards began to
swell with pride and exultation, and drove us before them among the
crowds of inhabitants, singing songs of triumph, and brandishing their
weapons. Having been driven through a great part of the town, we
arrived at a number of huts separated by a high palisade from the rest,
and appropriated, as we afterwards found, to the use of the king of the
country, his wives and attendants. Here we waited outside some time,
while our guards went in and acquainted this royal personage with the
present which they had brought for him.
We had reason to think that our captors were not his subjects, but had
been at variance with him, and had brought us as a present, that they
might make peace with an enemy too strong for them. We were at last
ordered to go inside the enclosure, and found ourselves in a large open
building, constructed like the others, of reeds and boughs. In the
centre was squatted a ferocious-looking old Negro, attended by four
young Negro women. He was raw-boned and lean, and of a very large
frame. A diabolical ferocity was imprinted on his grim countenance, and
as he moved his arms and legs he showed that under his loose skin there
was a muscle of extraordinary power. I never had before seen such a
living type of brutal strength and barbarity. On a mat before him were
provisions of different kinds. Behind him stood several grim savages
who held his weapons, and on each side, at a greater distance, were rows
of Negroes, with their heads bent down and their arms crossed, awaiting
his orders. The chief or king, as well as the four women, had clothes
of the blue cotton cloth of the country, that is, one piece wrapped
round the loins and descending to the ankles, and another worn over
their shoulders; but, with few exceptions, all the rest, as well as the
inhabitants generally, were quite naked. So were we, as the reader may
recollect. Round the necks of the women were rows of gold beads, longer
by degrees, until the last of the rows hung lower than their bosoms, and
both the king and they had large bracelets of gold round their arms,
wrists, and legs. The women, who were young and well-looking, stared at
us with eager astonishment, while the old king scowled upon us so as to
freeze our blood. At last, rising from the ground, he took his sabre
from the man who held it behind him, and walked up among us, who with
our heads bowed, and breathless with fear, awaited our impending fate.
I happened to be standing the foremost, and grasping my arm with a gripe
which made my heart sink, with his hand which held the sword he bent
down my head still lower than it was. I made sure that he was about to
cut off my head, when the women, who had risen from the ground, ran
crowding round him, and with mingled entreaties and caresses strove to
induce him not to put his intentions, if such he really had, into
execution. They prevailed at last; the youngest took away his sword,
and then they led him back to his seat, after which the women came to us
to gratify their curiosity. They felt our arms and breasts, putting
innumerable questions to those who brought us thither. They appeared
very much amazed at the length of my hair, for I had worn it tied in a
long cue. Taking hold of it, they gave it two or three severe pulls, to
ascertain if it really grew to my head, and finding that it did so, they
expressed much wonder. When their curiosity was satisfied, they then
appeared to consider our condition, and having obtained the old king's
permission, they brought us a calabash full of cush-cush, that is,
Guinea corn boiled into a thick paste. Our hands being still tied, we
could only by shaking our heads express our inability to profit by their
kindness. Understanding what we meant, they immediately cut our thongs,
and the youngest of the four perceiving that my arms were benumbed from
having been confined so many days, and that I could not use them, showed
the most lively commiseration for my sufferings. She gently chafed my
wrists with her hands, and showed every sign of pity in her countenance,
as indeed did all the other three. But I was by far the youngest of the
whole party who had been captured, and seemed most to excite their pity
and good-will. Shortly afterwards we were all taken into an adjoining
tent or hut, and our bodies were rubbed all over with an oil, which
after a few days' application left us perfectly healed, and as smooth as
silk. So altered was our condition, that those very people who had
guarded us with their spears and threatened us with death, were now
ordered to wait upon us, and as the king's wives frequently came to see
how we were treated, we were served with the utmost humility and
attention.