There are two rooms in the chalet, each about sixteen feet square, the

one below having four windows and a door, and the one above (approached

in the usual Swiss fashion by an external staircase), which is much the

prettier, having six windows and a door. There are shutters outside, and

the overhanging roof at first sight gives the building somewhat of a

top-heavy appearance, but this impression wears off after a time, and it

is found to be effective and well-proportioned. "The five mirrors" which

Dickens placed in the chalet have been removed from the upper room, but

they are scarcely necessary, the views of rich and varied foliage and

flowers seen from the open windows, through which the balmy air passes,

forming a series of pictures in the bright sunlight of the August

afternoon delightfully fresh and beautiful. We sit down quietly for a

few minutes and enjoy the privilege; we ponder on the many happy and

industrious hours spent by its late owner in this now classic building;

and we leave it sadly, with the recollection that here were penned the

last lines which the "vanished hand" was destined to give to the world.

The Earl of Darnley generously allows his neighbours to have a key of

his park, and Dickens had one of such keys, a privilege greatly

appreciated by him and his friends. Recently his lordship has erected a

staircase round one of the highest trees in the park, called the "crow's

nest," from whence a very pretty peep at the surrounding country is

obtained.

During our visit we venture to ask the portly housekeeper if she

remembers Charles Dickens? The ray of delight that illumines her

good-natured countenance is simply magical.

"Oh," she says, "I liked Mr. Dickens very much. He was always so full of

fun. Oh! oh! oh!" the recollection of which causes a fit of suppressed

laughter, which "communicates a blancmange-like motion to her fat

cheeks," and she adds: "He used to dine here, and was always very

popular with the family, and in the neighbourhood."

We cannot help thinking that such delightful places as Cobham Hall were

in Dickens's mind when, in _Bleak House_ (_a propos_ of Chesney Wold),

he makes the volatile Harold Skimpole say to Sir Leicester Dedlock--"The

owners of such places are public benefactors. They are good enough to

maintain a number of delightful objects for the admiration and pleasure

of us poor men, and not to reap all the admiration and pleasure that

they yield, is to be ungrateful to our benefactors."

Leaving the park by a pretty undulating walk, and passing on our way a

large herd of deer, their brown and fawn-coloured coats contrasting

prettily with the green-sward, we come upon the picturesque village of

Cobham, where Mr. Tupman sought consolation after his little affair with

the amatory spinster aunt. Of course the principal object of interest is

the Leather Bottle, or "Dickens's old Pickwick Leather Bottle," as the

sign of the present landlord now calls it, wherein Dickens slept a night

in 1841, and visited it many times subsequently. There is a coloured

portrait of the President of the Pickwick Club on the sign, as he

appeared addressing the members. A fire occurred at the Leather Bottle a

few years ago, but it was confined to a back portion of the building;

unfortunately its restoration and so-called "improvements" have

destroyed many of the picturesque features which characterized this

quiet old inn when Dickens wrote the famous Papers. Here is his

description of it after Mr. Pickwick, Mr. Snodgrass, and Mr. Winkle had

walked through Cobham Park to seek their lost friend:--

[Illustration: The "Leather Bottle" Cobham]

"'If this,' said Mr. Pickwick, looking about him;

'if this were the place to which all who are

troubled with our friend's complaint came, I fancy

their old attachment to this world would very soon

return.'

"'I think so too,' said Mr. Winkle.

"'And really,' added Mr. Pickwick, after half an

hour's walking had brought them to the village,

'really for a misanthrope's choice, this is one of

the prettiest and most desirable places of

residence I ever met with.'

"In this opinion also, both Mr. Winkle and Mr.

Snodgrass expressed their concurrence; and having

been directed to the Leather Bottle, a clean and

commodious village ale-house, the three

travellers entered, and at once inquired for a

gentleman of the name of Tupman.

"'Show the gentlemen into the parlour, Tom,' said

the landlady.

"A stout country lad opened a door at the end of

the passage, and the three friends entered a long,

low-roofed room, furnished with a large number of

high-backed leather-cushioned chairs, of fantastic

shapes, and embellished with a great variety of

old portraits, and roughly-coloured prints of some

antiquity. At the upper end of the room was a

table, with a white cloth upon it, well covered

with a roast fowl, bacon, ale, and etceteras; and

at the table sat Mr. Tupman, looking as unlike a

man who had taken his leave of the world, as

possible.

"On the entrance of his friends, that gentleman

laid down his knife and fork, and with a mournful

air advanced to meet them.

"'I did not expect to see you here,' he said, as

he grasped Mr. Pickwick's hand. 'It's very kind.'

"'Ah!' said Mr. Pickwick, sitting down, and wiping

from his forehead the perspiration which the walk

had engendered. 'Finish your dinner, and walk out

with me. I wish to speak to you alone.'

"Mr. Tupman did as he was desired; and Mr.

Pickwick having refreshed himself with a copious

draught of ale, waited his friend's leisure. The

dinner was quickly despatched, and they walked out

together.

"For half an hour, their forms might have been

seen pacing the churchyard to and fro, while Mr.

Pickwick was engaged in combating his companion's

resolution. Any repetition of his arguments would

be useless; for what language could convey to them

that energy and force which their great

originator's manner communicated? Whether Mr.

Tupman was already tired of retirement, or whether

he was wholly unable to resist the eloquent appeal

which was made to him, matters not; he did _not_

resist it at last.

"'It mattered little to him,' he said, 'where he

dragged out the miserable remainder of his days:

and since his friend laid so much stress upon his

humble companionship, he was willing to share his

adventures.'

"Mr. Pickwick smiled; they shook hands; and walked

back to rejoin their companions."

[Illustration: The Old Parlour of the "Leather Bottle."]

[Illustration: Cobham Church]

In order to preserve the historical associations of the place, the

landlord of the Leather Bottle has added to the art collection in the

fine old parlour (that still contains "the high-backed leather-cushioned

chairs of fantastic shapes") many portraits of Dickens and illustrations

from his works, including a copy of the life-like coloured Watkins

photograph previously referred to. It has been already suggested that

the neighbourhood of Kit's Coty House probably gave rise to the famous

archaeological episode of the stone with the inscription--"Bill Stumps,

his mark," in _Pickwick_, which occurred near here, rivalling the "A. D.

L. L." discovery of the sage Monkbarns in Scott's _Antiquary_.

Time presses with us, so, after a refreshing cup of tea, we just have a

hasty glance at the beautiful old church, which contains some splendid

examples of monumental brasses, which for number and preservation are

said to be unique. They are erected to the memory of John Cobham,

Constable of Rochester, 1354, his ancestors and others.[37] There are

also some fine old almshouses which accommodate twenty pensioners. These

almshouses are a survival of the ancient college. We then take our

departure, returning through Cobham woods.

Turning off at some distance on the left, and passing through the little

village of Shorne, with its pretty churchyard, a very favourite spot of

Charles Dickens, and probably described by him in _Pickwick_ as "one of

the most peaceful and secluded churchyards in Kent, where wild flowers

mingle with the grass, and the soft landscape around, forms the fairest

spot in the garden of England"--we make for Chalk church. It will be

remembered, that the first number of _Pickwick_ appeared on the 31st

March, 1836, and on the 2nd of April following Charles Dickens was

married, and came to spend his honeymoon at Chalk, and he visited it

again in 1837, when doubtless the descriptions of Cobham and its

vicinity were written. To this neighbourhood, "at all times of his life,

he returned, with a strange recurring fondness."

[Illustration: Shorne Church]

Mr. Kitton has favoured me with permission to quote the following

extract from his Supplement to _Charles Dickens by Pen and Pencil_,

being the late Mr. E. Laman Blanchard's recollections of this pleasant

neighbourhood:--

"In the year Charles Dickens came to reside at Gad's Hill, I took

possession of a country house at Rosherville, which I occupied for some

seventeen years. During that period a favourite morning walk was along

the high road, of many memories, leading from Gravesend to Rochester,

and on repeated occasions I had the good fortune to encounter the great

novelist making one of his pedestrian excursions towards the Gravesend

or Greenhithe railway station, where he would take the train to travel

up to town. Generally, by a curious coincidence, we passed each other,

with an interchange of salutations, at about the same spot. This was on

the outskirts of the village of Chalk, where a picturesque lane branched

off towards Shorne and Cobham. Here the brisk walk of Charles Dickens

was always slackened, and he never failed to glance meditatively for a

few moments at the windows of a corner house on the southern side of the

road, advantageously situated for commanding views of the river and the

far-stretching landscape beyond. It was in that house he had lived

immediately after his marriage, and there many of the earlier chapters

of _Pickwick_ were written."

It is a long walk from Cobham to Chalk church,--the church, by the bye,

being about a mile from the village, as is usual in many places in

Kent,--and as the shades of evening are coming upon us, and as we are

desirous of having a sketch of the curious stone-carved figure over the

entrance porch, we hurry on, and succeed in effecting our object, though

under the difficulty of approaching darkness.

[Illustration: Curious Old Figure over the Porch, Chalk Church.]

This figure represents an old priest in a stooping position, with an

upturned vessel (probably a jug), about which we were informed there is

probably a legend. Dickens used to be a great admirer of this quaint

carving, and it is said that whenever he passed it, he always took off

his hat to it, or gave it a friendly nod, as to an old acquaintance. [We

regretfully record the fact that since our visit, both porch and figure

have been demolished.]

Amid the many strange sounds peculiar to summer night in the country, a

very weird and startling effect is produced in this lonely spot, in the

dusk of the evening, by the shrill whistle of the common redshank

(_Totanus calidris_), so called from the colour of its legs, which are

of a crimson-red. This bird, as monotonous in its call-note as the

corn-crake, to which it is closely allied, doubtless has its home in the

marshes hereabout, in which, and in fen countries, it greatly delights.

The peculiar whistle is almost ventriloquial in its ubiquity, and must

be heard to be properly appreciated.

We retrace our steps to the Dover road, and by the light of a match

applied to our pipes, see that our pedometer marks upwards of fifteen

miles for this tramp--"a rather busy afternoon," as Mr. Datchery once

said.

Since these lines were written, the third volume of the _Autobiography

and Reminiscences_ of W. P. Frith, R.A., has been published, in which

there is a most interesting reminiscence of Dickens; indeed, there are

many scattered throughout the three volumes, but the one in question

refers to "a stroll" which Dickens took with Mr. Frith and other friends

in July 1868. Mr. Cartwright, the celebrated dentist, was one of the

party, and the "stroll" was in reality, as the genial R. A. describes

it, "a fearfully long walk" such as he shall never forget; nor the night

he passed, without once closing his eyes in sleep, after it. "Dickens,"

continues Mr. Frith, "was a great pedestrian. His strolling was at the

rate of perhaps a little under four miles an hour. He was used to the

place,--I was not, and suffered accordingly."

Having a shrewd suspicion that this referred to one of the long walks

taken in our tramp, the present writer communicated with Mr. Frith on

the subject, and he was favoured with the following reply:--

"The stroll I mentioned in my third volume was through Lord Darnley's

park, but after that I remember nothing. As the time spent in walking

was four hours at least, we must have covered ground far beyond the

length of the park.

"On another occasion,--Dickens, Miss Hogarth, and I went to Rochester to

see the Castle, and the famous Pickwickian inn. On another day we went

to the Leather Bottle at Cobham, where Dickens was eloquent on the

subject of the Dadd parricide, showing us the place where the body was

found, with many startling and interesting details of the discovery."

The subject of the Dadd parricide alluded to by Mr. Frith was a very

horrible case; the son--an artist--was a lunatic, and was subsequently

confined in Bethlehem Hospital, London. There are two curious pictures

by him in the Dyce and Forster collection at South Kensington; one is

inscribed "Sketches to Illustrate the Passions--Patriotism. By Richard

Dadd, Bethlehem Hospital, London, May 30, 1857, St. George's-in-the-Fields."

It has much minute writing on it. The other is "Leonidas with the

Wood-cutters," and illustrates Glover's poem, _Leonidas_. It is

inscribed, "Rd. Dadd, 1873." He died in Bethlehem Hospital in 1887.

The Dover Road! What a magic influence it has over us, as we tramp along

it in the quiet summer evening, and recall an incident that happened

nearly a hundred years ago, what time the Dover mail struggled up

Shooter's Hill on that memorable Friday night, and Jerry Cruncher, who

had temporarily suspended his "fishing" operations, and being free from

the annoyances of the "Aggerawayter," caused consternation to the minds

of coachman, guard, and passengers of the said mail, by riding abruptly

up, _a la_ highwayman, and demanding to speak to a passenger named Mr.

Jarvis Lorry, then on his way to Paris,--as faithfully chronicled in _A

Tale of Two Cities_. Again, in the early part of the present century,

when a certain friendless but dear and artless boy, named David

Copperfield,--who having been first robbed by a "long-legged young man

with a very little empty donkey-cart, which was nothing but a large

wooden-tray on wheels," of "half a guinea and his box," under pretence

of "driving him to the pollis," and subsequently defrauded by an

unscrupulous tailor named one Mr. Dolloby ("Dolloby was the name over

the shop-door at least") of the proper price of "a little weskit," for

which he, Dolloby, gave poor David only ninepence,--trudged along that

same Dover road footsore and hungry, "and got through twenty-three miles

on the straight road" to Rochester and Chatham on a certain Sunday; all

of which is duly recorded in _The Personal History of David

Copperfield_.

In after years, when happier times came to him, David made many journeys

over the Dover road, between Canterbury and London, on the Canterbury

Coach. Respecting the earliest of these (readers will remember Phiz's

illustration, "My first fall in life"), he says:--

"The main object on my mind, I remember, when we got fairly on the road,

was to appear as old as possible to the coachman, and to speak extremely

gruff. The latter point I achieved at great personal inconvenience; but

I stuck to it, because I felt it was a grown-up sort of thing."

In spite of this assumption, he is impudently chaffed by "William the

coachman" on his "shooting"--on his "county" (Suffolk), its "dumplings,"

and its "Punches," and finally, at William's suggestion, actually

resigns his box-seat in favour of his (William's) friend, "the

gentleman with a very unpromising squint and a prominent chin, who had a

tall white hat on with a narrow flat brim, and whose close-fitting drab

trousers seemed to button all the way up outside his legs from his boots

to his hips." In reply to a remark of the coachman this worthy

says:--"There ain't no sort of 'orse that I 'ain't bred, and no sort of

dorg. 'Orses and dorgs is some men's fancy. They're wittles and drink to

me--lodging, wife, and children--reading, writing, and 'rithmetic--snuff,

tobacker, and sleep."

"That ain't a sort of man to see sitting behind a coach-box, is it,

though?" says William in David's ear. David construes this remark into

an indication of a wish that "the gentleman" should have his place, so

he blushingly offers to resign it.

"Well, if you don't mind," says William, "I think it would be more

correct."

Poor David, "so very young!" gives up his box-seat, and thus moralizes

on his action:--

"I have always considered this as the first fall I

had in life. When I booked my place at the

coach-office, I had had 'Box Seat' written against

the entry, and had given the book-keeper

half-a-crown. I was got up in a special great coat

and shawl, expressly to do honour to that

distinguished eminence; had glorified myself upon

it a good deal; and had felt that I was a credit

to the coach. And here, in the very first stage, I

was supplanted by a shabby man with a squint, who

had no other merit than smelling like a

livery-stables, and being able to walk across me,

more like a fly than a human being, while the

horses were at a canter."

Pip, in _Great Expectations_, also made very many journeys to and from

London, along the Dover road (the London road it is called in the

novel), but the two most notable were, firstly, the occasion of his

ride outside the coach with the two convicts as fellow-passengers on the

back-seat--"bringing with them that curious flavour of bread-poultice,

baize, rope-yarn, and hearth-stone, which attends the convict presence;"

and secondly, that in which he walked all the way to London, after the

sad interview at Miss Havisham's house, where he learns that Estella is

to become the wife of Bentley Drummle:--

"All done, all gone! So much was done and gone,

that when I went out at the gate the light of day

seemed of a darker colour than when I went in. For

awhile I hid myself among some lanes and bypaths,

and then started off to walk all the way to

London. . . . It was past midnight when I crossed

London Bridge."

One more reference is made to the Dover road in _Bleak House_, where

that most lovable of the many lovable characters in Dickens's novels,

Esther Summerson, makes her journey, with her faithful little maid

Charley, to Deal, in order to comfort Richard Carstone:--

"It was a night's journey in those coach times;

but we had the mail to ourselves, and did not find

the night very tedious. It passed with me as I

suppose it would with most people under such

circumstances. At one while, my journey looked

hopeful, and at another hopeless. Now, I thought

that I should do some good, and now I wondered how

I could ever have supposed so."

When speaking of Dickens's characters, some critics have said that "he

never drew a gentleman." One ventures to ask, Where is there a more

chivalrous, honourable, or kind-hearted gentleman than Mr. John

Jarndyce? Sir Leicester Dedlock in the same novel too, with some few

peculiarities, is a thoroughly high-minded and noble gentleman of the

old school. This by the way.

[Illustration: "There's Milestones on the Dover Road"]

After walking some distance, we are able to verify one of those sage

experiences of Mr. F.'s aunt:--"There's milestones on the Dover road!"

for, by the light of another match, the darkness closing in, and there

being no moon, we read "4 miles to Rochester." However, we tramp merrily

on, with "the town lights right afore us," our minds being full of

pleasant reminiscences of the scenes we have passed through, and this

expedition, like many a weightier matter, "comes to an end for the

time."

* * * * *

We had on another occasion the pleasure of a long chat with Mrs. Latter

of Shorne, one of the daughters of Mr. W. S. Trood, for many years

landlord of the Sir John Falstaff. She said her family came from

Somersetshire to reside at Gad's Mill in the year 1849, and left in

1872. The Falstaff was then a little homely place, but it has been much

altered since. She knew Charles Dickens very well, and saw him

constantly during his residence at Gad's Hill Place. Mrs. Latter lost

two sisters while she lived at the Falstaff--one died at the age of

eleven, and the other at nineteen. The last-mentioned was named Jane,

and died in 1862 of brain fever. Dickens was very kind to the family at

the time, took great interest in the poor girl, and offered help of

"anything that his house could afford." She remembers her mother asking

Dickens if it would be well to have the windows of the bedroom open. At

those times people were fond of keeping invalids closed up from the air.

Dickens said--"Certainly: give her plenty of air." He liked fresh air

himself. Mrs. Latter said in proof of this that the curtains were always

blowing about the open windows at Gad's Hill Place.

When her sister Jane died, the funeral took place at Higham Church, and

was very quiet, there being no show, only a little black pall trimmed

with white placed over the coffin, which was carried by young men to the

grave. Dickens afterwards commended what had been done, saying: "It

showed good sense," and adding--"Not like an army of black beetles."

It will be remembered that in _Great Expectations_ and elsewhere the

ostentation, mummery, and extravagance of the "undertaking ceremony" are

severely criticised. The same feeling, and a desire for funeral reform,

no doubt prompted Dickens to insert the following clause in his Will:--

"I emphatically direct that I be buried in an inexpensive,

unostentatious, and strictly private manner; that no public announcement

be made of the time or place of my burial; that at the utmost not more

than three plain mourning-coaches be employed; and that those who attend

my funeral wear no scarf, cloak, black bow, long hatband, or other such

revolting absurdity."

Mrs. Latter then told us the story of the two men with performing

bears:--

It appears that soon after Dickens came to Gad's Hill a lot of labourers

from Strood--some thirty or forty in number--had been for an outing in

breaks to Cobham to a "bean-feast," or something of the kind, and some

of them had got "rather fresh." On the return journey they stopped at

the Falstaff, and at the time two men, who were foreigners, were there

with performing bears, a very large one and a smaller one. The labourers

began to lark with the bears, teased them, and made them savage,

"becalled" the two men to whom they belonged, and a regular row

followed. The owners of the bears became exasperated, and were

proceeding to unmuzzle the animals, when Dickens (hearing the noise)

came out of his gate holding one of his St. Bernard dogs by a chain. He

told Mrs. Latter's father to take the bears up a back lane, said a few

words to the crowd, and remonstrated with the Strood men on their

conduct. The effect was magical; the whole affair was stilled in a

minute or two.

* * * * *

On a subsequent occasion we called upon the Rev. John Joseph Marsham of

Overblow, near Shorne. This venerable clergyman, a bachelor, and in his

eighty-fifth year, is totally blind, but in other respects is in the

full possession of all his faculties, and remarked that he was much

interested to hear anybody talk about old friends and times. He was

inducted as Vicar of Shorne in the year 1837, came to live there in

1845, and resigned his cure in 1888, after completing his jubilee. He is

a "Kentish man," having been born at Rochester. In our tramp the

question of "Kentish man," or "man of Kent," often cropped up, and we

had an opportunity of having the difference explained to us. A "Kentish

man" is one born on the east side of the river Medway, and a "man of

Kent" is one born on the west side.

The position of the residence "Overblow" is delightful. It stands on a

little hill, the front having a fine view of the Thames valley and the

marshes, the side looking on to the pretty hollow, in the centre of

which stands Shorne Church, and the back being flanked in the distance

by the beautiful Cobham Woods.

The reverend gentleman told us that he was a schoolfellow of the Right

Honourable W. E. Gladstone and Sir Thomas Gladstone, his brother, at

Eton, and had dined with the former at Hawarden on the occasion of his

being thrice Premier, although he helped to turn his old friend out at

Oxford in 1865, when he was succeeded by the Right Honourable Gathorne

Hardy, now Lord Cranbrook.

Mr. Marsham was a neighbour of Charles Dickens, occasionally dined with

him at Gad's Hill, and also met him at dinner sometimes at Mr. Hulkes's

at the Little Hermitage. He spoke of him as a nice neighbour and a

charming host, but he rarely talked except to his old friends. He

frequently met Dickens in his walks, and had many a stroll with him, and

always found him very interesting and amusing in his conversation. Once

they were coming down from London together in a saloon carriage which

contained about twelve or fourteen people. Dickens was sitting quietly

in a corner. It was at the time that one of his serial novels was

appearing, and most of the passengers were reading the current monthly

number. No one noticed Dickens, and when the train stopped at Strood, he

said--"We did not have much talk." "No," said Mr. Marsham, "the people

were much better engaged," at which Dickens laughed. Charles Dickens

did Mr. Marsham the kindness to send him early proofs of his Christmas

stories before they were published.

After Dickens's death (which he heard of in London, and never felt so

grieved in his life) Mr. Charles Dickens the younger, and Mr. Charles

Collins, his brother-in-law, came to select a piece of ground on the

east side of Shorne churchyard, which was one of Dickens's favourite

spots, but in consequence of the arrangements for the burial in

Westminster Abbey this was of course given up.

Mr. Marsham was staying in London, at Lord Penrhyn's, at the time of

Dickens's death, and Lady Louisa Penrhyn told him that by accident she

was in Westminster Abbey at about ten o'clock on the morning of 14th

June, the day of the funeral, and noticing some persons standing round

an open grave, her ladyship went to see it, and was greatly impressed on

looking in to read the name of Charles Dickens on the coffin, on which

were numerous wreaths of flowers.

Our venerable friend possesses a souvenir of the novelist in the two

exquisite plaster statuettes, about eighteen inches high, of "Night" and

"Morning," which he purchased at the Gad's Hill sale.

The reverend gentleman spoke of the great improvements in travelling as

compared with times within his recollection. He said that before the

railways were constructed he went to London by boat from Gravesend, and

the river was so bad that he had to keep his handkerchief to his nose

all the way to avoid the stench. This was long before the days of Thames

Embankments and other improvements in travelling by river and road.

FOOTNOTE:

[37] "Cobham Church [says a writer in the _Archaeologia Cantiana_, 1877]

is distinguished above all others as possessing the finest and most

complete series of brasses in the kingdom. It contains some of the

earliest and some of the latest, as well as some of the most beautiful

in design. The inscriptions are also remarkable, and the heraldry for

its intelligence is in itself a study. There is an interest also in the

fact that for the most part they refer to one great family--the Lords of

Cobham."

CHAPTER XIV.

A FINAL TRAMP IN ROCHESTER AND LONDON.

"You have been in every line I have ever read,

since I first came here, . . . you have been in

every prospect I have ever seen since--on the

river, on the sails of the ships, on the marshes,

in the clouds, in the light, in the darkness, in

the wind, in the woods, in the sea, in the

streets."--_Great Expectations._

"The magic reel, which, rolling on before, has led

the Chronicler thus far, now slackens in its pace,

and stops. It lies before the goal; the pursuit is

at an end. . . . Good-night, and heaven send our

journey may have a prosperous ending."--_The Old

Curiosity Shop._

IT is the morning of Saturday, the first of September, 1888, when our

wonderfully pleasant week's tramp in "Dickens-Land" comes to an end. We

have carried out every detail of our programme, without a single

_contretemps_ to mar the enjoyment of our delightful holiday; we have

visited not only the spots where the childhood and youth of Charles

Dickens were passed, and where the influence of the environment is

specially traceable in the tone of both his earlier and later writings,

but we have gone over and identified (as we proposed to do) a number of

places in which he delighted, and often described in those writings,

peopling them with airy characters (but to us most real), in whose

footsteps we have walked. We have seen the place where he was born; we

have seen nearly all the houses in which he lived in after life; and we

have been over the charming home occupied by him for fourteen years,

where his last moments passed away under the affectionate and

reverential solicitude of his sons and daughters, and of Miss Hogarth,

his sister-in-law, "the ever-useful, self-denying, and devoted friend."

And now we linger lovingly about a few of the streets and places in "the

ancient city," and especially in the precincts of the venerable

Cathedral, all sanctified by the memory of the mighty dead. We fain

would prolong our visit, but the "stern mandate of duty," as Immanuel

Kant called it, prevails, and we bow to the inevitable; or as Mr.

Herbert Spencer better puts it, "our duty is our pleasure, and our

greatest happiness consists in achieving the happiness of others." We

feel our departure to-day the more keenly, as everything tempts us to

stay. Listening for a moment at the open door--the beautiful west

door--of the Cathedral, in this glorious morning in early autumn, we

hear the harmonies of the organ and choir softly wafted to us from

within; we feel the delicious morning air, which comes over the old

Castle and burial-ground from the Kentish hills; we see the bright and

beautiful flowers and foliage of the lovely catalpa tree, through which

the sunlight glints; a solemn calm pervades the spot as the hum of the

city is hushed; and, although we have read them over and over again,

now, for the first time, do we adequately realize the exquisitely

touching lines on the last page of _Edwin Drood_, written by the

master-hand that was so soon to be stilled for ever:--

[Illustration: Doorway Rochester Cathedral]

"A brilliant morning shines on the old City. Its

antiquities and ruins are surpassingly beautiful,

with the lusty ivy gleaming in the sun, and the

rich trees waving in the balmy air. Changes of

glorious light from moving boughs, songs of birds,

scents from gardens, woods and fields--or,

rather, from the one great garden of the whole of

the cultivated island in its yielding

time--penetrate into the Cathedral, subdue its

earthy odour, and preach the Resurrection and the

Life. The cold stone tombs of centuries ago grow

warm; and flecks of brightness dart into the

sternest marble corners of the building,

fluttering there like wings."

Having time to reflect on our experiences, we are able to understand how

greatly our feelings and ideas have been influenced for good, both

regarding the personality of the novelist and his writings.

In the course of our rambles we have interviewed many people in various

walks of life who knew Dickens well, and their interesting replies,

mostly given in their own words, vividly bring before our mental vision

the _man_ as he actually lived and moved among his neighbours, apart

from any glamour with which we, as hero-worshippers, naturally invest

him. We see him in his home, beloved by his family, taking kindly

interest, as a country gentleman, in the poor of the district, entering

into and personally encouraging their sports, and helping them in their

distress. To his dependents and tradesmen he was kind, just, and

honourable; to his friends genial, hospitable, and true; in himself

eager, enthusiastic, and thorough. No man of his day had more friends,

and he kept them as long as he lived. His favourite motto,

"courage--persevere," comes before us constantly. All that we heard on

the other side was contained in the expression--"rather masterful!"

Rather masterful? Of course he was rather masterful--otherwise he would

never have been Charles Dickens. What does he say in that unconscious

description of himself, which he puts into the mouth of Boots at _The

Holly-Tree Inn_, when referring to the father of Master Harry Walmers,

Junior?

"He was a gentleman of spirit, and good-looking,

and held his head up when he walked, and had what

you may call Fire about him. He wrote poetry, and

he rode, and he ran, and he cricketed, and he

danced, and he acted, and he done it all equally

beautiful. . . . He was a gentleman that had a will

of his own and a eye of his own, and that would be

minded."

Perfectly true do we find the summing up of his character, in his home

at Gad's Hill, as given by Professor Minto in the last edition of the

_Encyclopaedia Britannica_ (one of the most faithful, just, and

appreciative articles ever written about Dickens):--"Here he worked, and

walked, and saw his friends, and was loved and almost worshipped by his

poorer neighbours, for miles around."

Although tolerably familiar with most of the writings of Dickens from

our youth, and, like many readers, having our favourites which may have

absorbed our attention to the exclusion of others, we are bound to say

that our little visit to Rochester and its neighbourhood--our

"Dickens-Land"--rendered famous all the world over in the novels and

minor works, gives a freshness, a brightness, and a reality to our

conceptions scarcely expected, and never before experienced. The

faithful descriptions of scenery witnessed by us for the first time in

and about the "quaint city" of Rochester, the delightful neighbourhood

of Cobham, the glorious old city of Canterbury, the dreary marshes and

other localities: the more detailed pictures of particular places, like

the Castle, the Cathedral, its crypt and tower, the Bull Inn, the Vines,

Richard Watts's Charity, and others--the point of the situation in many

of these cannot be realized without personal inspection and

verification.

And further, as by a sort of reflex action, another feeling comes

uppermost in our minds, apart from the mere amusement and enjoyment of

Dickens's works: we mean the actual benefits to humanity which, directly

or indirectly, arise out of his writings; and we endorse the noble lines

of dedication which his friend, Walter Savage Landor, addressed to him

in his _Imaginary Conversations of Greeks and Romans_ (1853):--

"Friends as we are, have long been, and ever shall be, I doubt whether I

should have prefaced these pages with your name, were it not to register

my judgment that, in breaking up and cultivating the unreclaimed wastes

of Humanity, no labours have been so strenuous, so continuous, or half

so successful, as yours. While the world admires in you an unlimited

knowledge of mankind, deep thought, vivid imagination, and bursts of

eloquence from unclouded heights, no less am I delighted when I see you

at the school-room you have liberated from cruelty, and at the cottage

you have purified from disease."

We have before us--its edges browned by age--a reprint of a letter

largely circulated at the time, addressed by Dickens to _The Times_,

dated "Devonshire Terrace, 13th Novr., 1849," in which he describes, in

graphic and powerful language, the ribald and disgusting scenes which he

witnessed at Horsemonger Lane Gaol on the occasion of the execution of

the Mannings. The letter is too long to quote in its entirety, but the

following extract will suffice:--"I have seen habitually some of the

worst sources of general contamination and corruption in this country,

and I think there are not many phases of London life that could surprise

me. I am solemnly convinced that nothing that ingenuity could devise to

be done in this city in the same compass of time could work such ruin as

one public execution, and I stand astounded and appalled by the

wickedness it exhibits." The letter contains an urgent appeal to the

then Home Secretary, Sir George Grey, "as a solemn duty which he owes to

society, and a responsibility which he cannot for ever put away," to

originate an immediate legislative change in this respect. Forster says

in allusion to the above-mentioned letter:--"There began an active

agitation against public executions, which never ceased until the

salutary change was effected which has worked so well." Dickens happily

lived to see the fruition of his labours, for the Private Execution Act

was passed in 1868, and the last public execution took place at Newgate

on 26th May of that year. As indicative of the new state of feeling at

that time, it may be mentioned that the number of spectators was not

large, and they were observed to conduct themselves with unusual

decorum.

It is valuable to record this as one of many public reforms which

Dickens by his writings and influence certainly helped to accomplish. In

his standard work on _Popular Government_ (1885), Sir Henry Sumner Maine

says:-"Dickens, who spent his early manhood among the politicians of

1832, trained in Bentham's school, [Bentham, by the bye, being quoted in

_Edwin Drood_,] hardly ever wrote a novel without attacking an abuse.

The procedure of the Court of Chancery and of the Ecclesiastical Courts,

the delays of the Public Offices, the costliness of divorce, the state

of the dwellings of the poor, and the condition of the cheap schools in

the North of England, furnished him with what he seemed to consider, in

all sincerity, the true moral of a series of fictions."

* * * * *

We bid a kindly adieu to the "dear old City" where so many genial

friends have been made, so many happy hours have been passed, so many

pleasant memories have been stored, and for the time leave

"the pensive glory,

That fills the Kentish hills,"

to take our seats in the train for London, with the intention of paying

a brief visit to South Kensington, where, in the Forster Collection of

the Museum, are treasured the greater portion of the manuscripts which

constitute the principal works of Charles Dickens. It will be remembered

that the Will of the great novelist contained the following simple but

important clause:--"I also give to the said John Forster (whom he

previously referred to as 'my dear and trusty friend') such manuscripts

of my published works as may be in my possession at the time of my

decease;" and that Mr. Forster by his Will bequeathed these priceless

treasures to his wife for her life, in trust to pass over to the Nation

at her decease. Mrs. Forster, who survives her husband, generously

relinquished her life interest, in order to give immediate effect to his

wishes; and thus in 1876, soon after Mr. Forster's death, they came into

the undisturbed possession of the Nation for ever.

Besides the manuscripts there are numbers of holograph letters, original

sketches (including "The Apotheosis of Grip the Raven") by D. Maclise,

R.A., and other interesting memorials relating to Charles Dickens. _The

Handbook to the Dyce and Forster Collections_ rightly says that:--"This

is a gift which will ever have the highest value, and be regarded with

the deepest interest by people of every English-speaking nation, as long

as the English language exists. Not only our own countrymen, but

travellers from every country and colony into which Englishmen have

spread, may here examine the original manuscripts of books which have

been more widely read than any other uninspired writings throughout the

world. Thousands, it cannot be doubted, who have been indebted for many

an hour of pleasurable enjoyment when in health, for many an hour of

solace when in weariness and pain, to these novels, will be glad to look

upon them as each sheet was sent last to the printer, full of

innumerable corrections from the hand of Charles Dickens."

The manuscripts are fifteen in number, bound up into large quarto

volumes, and comprise:--

1. _Oliver Twist_--two Volumes, with Preface to the _Pickwick Papers_,

and matter relating to _Master Humphrey's Clock_.

2. _Sketches of Young Couples._

3. _The Lamplighter_, a Farce. This MS. is not in the handwriting of

Dickens.

4. _The Old Curiosity Shop_--two Volumes, with Letter to Mr. Forster of

17th January, 1841, and hints for some chapters.

5. _Barnaby Rudge_--two Volumes.

6. _American Notes._

7. _Martin Chuzzlewit_--two Volumes, with various title-pages, notes as

to the names, &c., and dedication to Miss Burdett Coutts.

8. _The Chimes._

9. _Dombey and Son_--two Volumes, with title-pages, headings of

chapters, and memoranda.

10. _David Copperfield_--two Volumes, with various title-pages, and

memoranda as to names.

11. _Bleak House_--two Volumes, with suggestions for title-pages and

other memoranda.

12. _Hard Times_--with memoranda.

13. _Little Dorrit_--two Volumes, with memoranda, Dedication to Clarkson

Stanfield, and Preface.

14. _A Tale of Two Cities_--with Dedication to Lord John Russell, and

Preface.

15. _Edwin Drood_--unfinished, with memoranda, and headings for

chapters.

John Forster says:--"The last page of _Edwin Drood_ was written in the

chalet in the afternoon of his last day of consciousness."

Of the above-mentioned, the calligraphy of Nos. 1, 2, 3 and 4, is seen

at a glance to be larger, bolder, and to have fewer corrections. In Nos.

5 to 15 it is smaller, and more confused by numerous alterations.

According to Forster--"His greater pains and elaboration of writing

became first very obvious in the later parts of _Martin Chuzzlewit_."

The manuscripts of the earliest works of the Author, _Sketches by Boz_,

_Pickwick_, _Nicholas Nickleby_, &c., were evidently not considered at

the time worth preserving. The manuscript of _Our Mutual Friend_, given

by Dickens to Mr. E. S. Dallas--in grateful acknowledgment of an

appreciative review which (according to an article in _Scribner_,

entitled "Our Mutual Friend in Manuscript") Mr. Dallas wrote of the

novel for _The Times_, which largely increased the sale of the book, and

fully established its success,--is in the library of Mr. G. W. Childs of

Philadelphia; and that of _A Christmas Carol_--given by Dickens to his

old friend and school-fellow, Tom Mitton--was for sale in Birmingham a

few years ago, and might have been purchased for two hundred and fifty

guineas! It is now owned by Mr. Stuart M. Samuel, and has since been

beautifully reproduced in fac-simile, with an Introduction by my friend

and fellow-tramp, Mr. F. G. Kitton. Mr. Wright, of Paris, is the

fortunate possessor of _The Battle of Life_. The proof-sheets of _Great

Expectations_ are in the Museum at Wisbech. Messrs. Jarvis and Son, of

King William Street, Strand, sold some time since four of the MSS. of

minor articles contributed by Dickens to _Household Words_ in 1855-6,

viz. _The Friend of the Lions_, _Demeanour of Murderers_, _That other

Public_, and _Our Commission_, for L10 each.

At the sale of the late Mr. Wilkie Collins's manuscripts and library by

Messrs. Sotheby, Wilkinson, and Hodge, 18th June, 1890, the manuscript

of _The Frozen Deep_, by Wilkie Collins and Charles Dickens, 1856 (first

performed at Tavistock House, 6th January, 1857), together with the

narrative written for _Temple Bar_, 1874, and Prompt Book of the same

play, was sold for L300. A poem written by Charles Dickens, as a

Prologue to the same play, and _The Song of the Wreck_, also written by

Charles Dickens, were sold for L11 11_s._ each. _The Perils of Certain

English Prisoners_, a joint production of Wilkie Collins and Charles

Dickens, for the Christmas number of _Household Words_, 1857, realized

L200; and the drama of _No Thoroughfare_ (imperfect), also a joint

production, fetched L22.

The manuscripts now belonging to the Nation at South Kensington are

placed in a glazed cabinet, standing in the middle of the room, on the

right of which looks down the life-like portrait of the great novelist,

painted by W. P. Frith, R.A., in 1859. The manuscript volumes are laid

open in an appropriate manner, so that we have an opportunity of

examining and comparing them with one another, and of observing how the

precious thoughts which flowed from the fertile brain took shape and

became realities.

Where corrections have been made, the original ideas are so obscured

that it is scarcely possible to decipher them. This is effected, not by

the simple method of an obliteration of the words, as is common with

some authors, by means of a line or two run through them at one stroke

of the pen, but by a series of connected circles, or scroll-work

flourishes, thus, [Illustration] which must have caused greater muscular

labour in execution. Let any one try the two methods for himself.

Dickens was fond of flourishes, as witness his first published

autograph, under the portrait which was issued with _Nicholas Nickleby_

(1839). Some evidence of "writer's cramp," as it is termed, appears

where the C in Charles becomes almost a G, and where the line-like

flourishes to the signature thirty years later, under the portrait

forming the frontispiece to _Edwin Drood_, are much shorter and less

elaborate. All the earlier manuscripts are in black ink--the

characteristic _blue_ ink, which he was so fond of using in later years,

not appearing until _Hard Times_ was written (1854), and this continued

to be (with one exception, _Little Dorrit_) his favourite writing

medium, for the reason, it is said, that it was fluent to write with and

dried quickly.

From a valuable collection of letters (more than a dozen--recently in

the possession of Messrs. Noel Conway and Co., of Martineau Street,

Birmingham, and kindly shown to me by Mr. Charles Fendelow), written by

the novelist between 1832 and 1833 to a friend of his earlier years--Mr.

W. H. Kolle--and not hitherto published, it appears that he had not then

acquired that precise habit of inscribing the place, day of the week,

month, and the year which marked his later correspondence (as has been

pointed out by Miss Hogarth and Miss Dickens in the preface to the

_Letters of Charles Dickens_), very few of the letters to Mr. Kolle

bearing any record whatever except the day of the week, occasionally

preceded by Fitzroy Street or Bentinck Street, where he resided at the

time. It would be extremely interesting to ascertain the reason which

subsequently led him to adopt the extraordinarily precise method which

almost invariably marked his correspondence from the year 1840 until the

close of his life. Possibly arrangements with publishers and others may

have given him the exact habit which afterwards became automatic.

In addition to the manuscripts in the Forster Collection in the Museum

there are corrected proofs of a portion of the _Pickwick Papers_,

_Dombey and Son_, _David Copperfield_, _Bleak House_, and _Little

Dorrit_. Some of the corrections in _Dombey and Son_ are said to be in

the handwriting of Mr. Forster. All these proofs show marvellous

attention to detail--one of the most conspicuous of Dickens's

characteristics. Nothing with him was worth doing unless it was done

well. As an illustration of work in this direction, it may be mentioned

that a proof copy of the speech delivered at the meeting of the

Administrative Reform Association at Drury Lane Theatre on Wednesday,

June 27th, 1855, in the possession of the writer of these lines, has

over a hundred corrections on the nine pages of which it consists, and

many of these occur in punctuation. On careful examination, the

alterations show that the correction in every case is a decided

improvement on the original. The following _fac-similes_ from the

_Hand-Book_ to the _Dyce and Forster Collection_, and from Forster's

_Life_, illustrate the earlier, later, and latest handwritings of

Charles Dickens as shown in the MSS. of _Oliver Twist_, 1837, _Hard

Times_, 1854, and _Edwin Drood_, 1870.

[Illustration: "OLIVER TWIST," 1837, vol. i. ch. xii.]

[Illustration: "HARD TIMES," 1854, vol. i. ch. i.]

[Illustration: "DAVID COPPERFIELD," 1850 (corrected proof), ch. xiv.]

[Illustration: "EDWIN DROOD," 1870, ch. xxiii. p. 189 (_last MS.

page_).]

A proof of the fourteenth Chapter of _David Copperfield_, 1850, shows

that the allusion to "King Charles the First's head"--about which Mr.

Dick was so much troubled--was _not_ contained in the first draft of the

story, for the passage originally had reference to "the date when that

bull got into the china warehouse and did so much mischief." The

subsequent reference to King Charles's head was a happy thought of

Dickens, and furthered Mr. Dick's idea of the mistake "of putting some

of the trouble out of King Charles's head" into his own.

Mr. R. F. Sketchley, the able and courteous custodian of the collection,

allows us to see some of the other rarities in the museum not displayed

in the cabinet--prefaces, dedications, and memoranda relating to the

novels; letters addressed by Dickens to Forster, Maclise, and others;

rare play-bills; and the originals of invitations to the public dinner

and ball at New York, which Dickens received on the occasion of his

first visit to America in 1842. After turning these over with

reverential care, we regretfully leave behind us one of the most

interesting and important literary collections ever presented to the

Nation.

We next visit the Prerogative Registry of the United Kingdom at Somerset

House, wherein is filed the original Will of Charles Dickens. The search

for this interesting document pursued by a stranger under pressure of

time, strongly reminds one of the "Circumlocution Office" so graphically

described in _Bleak House_. But we are enthusiastic, and at length

obtain a clue to it in a folio volume (Letter D), containing the names

of testators who died in the year 1870, where the Will is briefly

recorded (at number 468) as that of "Dickens, Charles, otherwise Charles

John Huffham, Esquire." We pay our fees, and take our seats in the

reading-room, when the original is presently placed in our hands. It is

one of a series of three documents fastened together by a bit of green

silk cord, and secured by the seal of the office, as is customary when

there are two or more papers filed. The first document is the Will

itself, dated 12th May, 1869, written throughout by the novelist very

plainly and closely in the characteristic blue ink on a medium sheet of

faint blue quarto letter paper, having the usual legal folded margin,

and exactly covering the four pages. It is free from corrections, and is

signed, "Charles Dickens," under which is the never-to-be-mistaken

flourish. The testatum is signed by G. Holsworth, 26 Wellington Street,

Strand, and Henry Walker, 26 Wellington Street, Strand, which points to

the fact that the Will was written and executed at the office of _All

the Year Round_. He appoints "Georgina Hogarth and John Forster

executrix and executor, and guardians of the persons of my children

during their respective minorities."

The second document is the Oath of John Forster, testifying that Charles

Dickens, otherwise Charles John Huffham Dickens, is one and the same

person. The third document is a Codicil dated 2nd June, 1870 (only a

week before his death), in which the novelist bequeaths "to my son

Charles Dickens, the younger, all my share and interest in the weekly

journal called _All the Year Round_." The Codicil is witnessed by the

same persons. The Will and Codicil are both given in extenso in vol.

iii. of Forster's _Life_--the gross amount of the real and personal

estate being calculated at L93,000.[38]

* * * * *

Avery short tramp from Somerset House brings us to the last object of our

pilgrimage--the grave of Charles Dickens in Westminster Abbey. Surely no

admirer of his genius can omit this final mark of honour to the memory

of the mighty dead. Many years have rolled by since "the good, the

gentle, highly gifted, ever friendly, noble Dickens" passed away; and we

stand by the grave in the calm September evening, with "jewels cast upon

the pavement of the nave from stained glass by the declining sun," and

look down at the dark flat stone lying at our feet, on which is

inscribed "in plain English letters," the simple record:--

CHARLES DICKENS,

BORN FEBRUARY THE SEVENTH, 1812.

DIED JUNE THE NINTH, 1870.

We recall with profoundly sympathetic interest that quietly impressive

ceremony as recorded by Forster in the final pages of his able

biography. "Before mid-day on Tuesday, the 14th June, 1870, with

knowledge of those only who took part in the burial, all was done. The

solemnity had not lost by the simplicity. Nothing so grand or so

touching could have accompanied it, as the stillness and the silence of

the vast Cathedral." And he further describes the wonderful gathering

subsequently:--"Then later in the day, and all the following day, came

unbidden mourners in such crowds that the Dean had to request permission

to keep open the grave until Thursday; but after it was closed they did

not cease to come, and all day long." Dean Stanley wrote:--"On the 17th

there was a constant pressure to the spot, and many flowers were strewn

upon it by unknown hands, many tears shed from unknown eyes."

What poet, what philosopher, what monarch even, might not envy this

loving tribute to the influence of the great writer, to the personal

respect for the man, and to the affection for the friend who, by the

sterling nature of his work for nearly thirty-five years, had the power

to create and sustain such sympathy?

Forster thus admiringly concludes the memoir of his hero:

"The highest associations of both the arts he loved surround him where

he lies. Next to him is Richard Cumberland. Mrs. Pritchard's monument

looks down upon him, and immediately behind is David Garrick's. Nor is

the actor's delightful art more worthily represented than the nobler

genius of the author. Facing the grave, and on its left and right, are

the monuments of Chaucer, Shakespeare, and Dryden, the three immortals

who did most to create and settle the language to which Charles Dickens

has given another undying name."

"Of making many books there is no end," said the wise man of old; and

certainly, if we may estimate the popularity of Charles Dickens by the

works of all kinds relating to him, written since his death, the number

may be counted by hundreds. It may also be said that probably no other

English writer save Shakespeare has been the cause of so much posthumous

literature. The sayings of his characters permeate our everyday life,

and they continue to be as fresh as when they were first recorded. The

original editions of his writings in some cases realize high prices

which are simply amazing, and--judging by statistics--his readers are as

numerous as ever they were. Higher testimony to the worth "of the most

popular novelist of the century, and one of the greatest humourists that

England has produced," and to the continued interest which the reading

public still evince in the minutest detail relating to him and to his

books, can scarcely be uttered; but what is better still--"his

sympathies were generally on the right side;"--he has left an example

that all may follow;--he did his utmost to leave the world a little

better than he found it;--as he said by one of his characters, "the best

of men can do no more"--and now he peacefully rests as one

"Of those immortal dead who live again

In minds made better by their presence."

[Illustration]

FOOTNOTE:

[38] Mr. Dolby, in his _Charles Dickens as I knew him_, estimates that

L45,000 was realized by Dickens's Readings.

L'ENVOI.

WE--my fellow-tramp and I--naturally feel a pang of regret now that our

pleasant visit to "Dickens-Land" is terminated. With a parting grasp of

the hand I express to the companion of my travels a cordial wish that

ere long we may, "PLEASE GOD," renew our delightful experience, and

again go over the ground hallowed by Dickens associations; to which my

friend, as cordially assenting, replies "SURELY, SURELY!"

With these two favourite expressions of Charles Dickens (quoted above) I

conclude the book, trusting that it will prove worthy of some kindly

appreciation at the hands of my readers.

INDEX.

CHIEFLY OF NAMES.

A BECKET THOMAS 212 338 340

Adams H. G. 271

Allington 135 290-8

_All the Year Round_ 37 193 374 422

Alphington 209 210

_American Notes_ 45 324

Andersen H. C. 32 374

Anderson Mary 152 169

Athenaeum 47

Austin H. 184 330

Aveling S. T. 53-4 80-2 97

Aylesford 288 292 296;

Battle of 311 313;

Church 290;

Churchyard 299;

Bridge 290;

Friary 297

BAIRD J. 270-1-2

Ball J. H. 68 226-7 235;

William 135 226-7-8 230 246

_Barnaby Rudge_ 17 44-5 138

Barnard's Inn 24

_Battle of Life_ 45 211

Bayham Street 38 264

Bell Yard 18

Bentinck Street 25 417

_Bentley's Miscellany_ 47 59

Bevan P. 103 114 251 289 311 324 338

Birmingham 59 239 240;

Town Hall 59 239;

and Midland Institute 144 239 240

Bishop's Court 20

Blanchard E. L. 393

_Bleak House_ 18 19 20 37 139 268 288 325-7-8 336 357

380 399 421

Bleak House (or Fort House) Broadstairs 327-8-9 333

Bloomsbury Square 31

Blue Bell or Upper Bell 188 310 314 374

Boley (or "Bully") Hill 88 124 158

"Borough English" 83

Boundary Lane 253

British Museum 31

Broadstairs 317 324-333 343-8;

Dickens's Residence in High Street 326;

Fort House (or "Bleak House") 327-8-9 333;

Lawn House 326-7;

Look-out House 332

Brompton (New) 80 252 270-5

Brooker Mr. 176

Budden Major 60 167-8-9 173 186-7-8 190-5;

Mrs. 168 195 369;

James 270-2-3;

William J. 269 270 295

Burgate Street 340

Burham 270 295

CAMDEN TOWN 38 264

Canterbury 113 172 336-344 409

Burgate Street 340

Cathedral 338

"Chequers" 343

Dane John 337

"Fountain" 343

Harbledown 348

High Street 337

Museum 340

"Sir John Falstaff" 336

"Sun" 343-4

West Gate 336-7

Canvey Island 351

Chalk 182 391-3;

Church 393-4

Chancery Lane 18 20

Chatham 4 28 38 53-4 60 70-1 80 144 188 194 231 251-280 282

Barracks 105

Convict Prison 268

Dockyard 267-9 274

Fort Pitt 104-6 272-280

Giles's Academy 261

High Street 260-2 272-3

House on the Brook 260-1-5-6 273

Lines 273-5-6

Mechanics' Institute 267-9 270-1-3

"Mitre" 60 116 262-3-4

Navy Pay Office 258 274

Ordnance Place 265;

Terrace 28 92 257-8 265 274

St. Mary's Church 92 255;

Place 260-2

Chelsea--St. Luke's Church 26

Cherry Garden 54

_Child's Dream of a Star_ 262-6

_Child's History of England_ 37 205

Chillington Manor House 308-9 310

_Chimes_ 18 20 41 305

Chorley H. F. 196 200

_Christmas Carol_ 45 239 414

Cinque Ports 345

Cliffe 356 360 373;

Church 361

Clifford's Inn 18 19

Cobb R. L. 373-4-5

Cobham 377-8 380-2 386-391 393 409

Chalet 222 384-5 414

Church 391

Hall 186 220-2 380-386

"Leather Bottle" 60 386-390 396

Park 188 194 374-9 380-2-6 396

Schools 382

Woods 380 391 403

Cobham Lord 358

Cobtree Hall 296-299 374

College Gate 72 124-130

Collins W. 32-3-6 152 196 207 374;

Sale of MSS. 415;

Charles A. 196-8 200-2-6 271 367 404;

Mrs. C. A. 200;

_and see_ Dickens Kate _and_ Perugini Mrs.

Cooling 349-360;

Castle 356-360;

Church 351-2;

Churchyard 354-7

Cooper T. Sidney 348

Cosham 284

Couchman J. 221-226

Countless Stones 311-2

_Cricket on the Hearth_ 45 161 239

"Crispin and Crispianus" 217-220

Crow Lane 78

"Crown Old" 116

"Crozier" 116

Cruikshank G. 59 140

Cursitor Street 20-2

Cuxton 288-9

DADD R. 396

_Daily News_ 17

"Dane John" 337

Darnley Earl of 202 222 374 382-385 396

_David Copperfield_ 26 39 45-8 91 139 148 219 251-6-8

266-269 284 317 325 340 343-347 356 396-7;

_Fac-simile_ 419 421

Davies Rev. G. 194-5;

Straits 194-5

Deal 399

Deanery Gatehouse 127-9

Devonshire Terrace 31 41-2-4-6;

Street 46

Dickens A. L. 38 184 228;

A. T. 47

Dickens Charles:--

Birth 255 285

Birthplace 280-287

Baptism 285

First literary effort 262

Short-hand 249

Marriage 391

and the Serjeant 249 250

and the Bears 402

and Public Executions 410-1

Genealogy (?) 253-4

Dogs 183-4-6 226-8

Chalet 222 384-5 414

Crest 385

Ravens 44

Readings 239 242 271-2 422

Politics 239 240

Illness 243-4

Death 244 369 370 404

Funeral 87-8 401-4 423;

Card 226

Grave 423-4

Will 87 286 401 421-2

Manuscripts 412-421

Handwriting _fac-similes_ (1837 1850 1854 1870) 418-420

Corrected Proofs 417

Memorial Brass 137

Memorials 227-9 230 247 371 420

Portraits 59 205 225 272 370 390 415-6

Letters 416-7

Mysterious Dickens-item 246-249

Dickens Mrs. C. 207 231

Dickens C. Junr. 26 32-4 140-5 200-2 294 366 404 422;

Edward B. L. 47

Dickens Fanny 262-4 284-5;

Harriet E. 262-6

Dickens H. F. 180 198 202-3 221 234 248-9 250 368 374

Dickens J. 38 254-5 265-6 274 283-4-5;

Mrs. 38 254-5 285

Dickens Kate 36 90 196 206 367 370

(_and see_ Perugini Mrs. _and_ Collins Mrs. C. A.)

Dickens Miss 31-4 416

Dickenson Mr. 200-1-2-9

Dodd H. 232-3-4

_Dombey and Son_ 45 139 227 317 325

Doughty Street 25-8-9 30

Dover 54 192 345-348;

Castle 347;

Heights 346;

Road 396-400

Drage Rev. W. H. 92;

Misses 92-3

"Duck" 117

EASEDOWN MRS. 369-371 373

Eastgate House 72-77 132

East Malling 293

_Edwin Drood_ 6 23-7 46 70-3-4-5 83 106 111 113 115 117 119

120-1-4-8-9 131-4 6-8-9 140-1 171 207 228 247-8-9 288

290 406 411 414 416-7;

_Fac-simile_ 420

Exeter 209

"FALSTAFF Sir John" (at Gad's Hill) 163-5-7 175 207-8-9 400;

(At Canterbury) 336

Farleigh 290

Faversham 323-4

Fechter Mr. 106 201 221 242

Fildes Luke 23 59 75 106 127-9 140-1 169 228 248

Fisher Bishop 131

Fitzroy Street 417

Fleet Street 17 18

Ford H. 330

Forster J. 2 6 8 19 20 30-8-9 41-4 51 87 93 107 167 174

176-9 182-6-7 196 207-9 221 232-5 258 262 275 310 324-7

335 356-7 364 412-4-7 421-424;

Bequest 412-416

Fort Clarence 316

Fort Pitt 104-6 272-280

_Fortunus_ 33

Fountain Court 17

Fox 20

Frindsbury 195 275 294;

Church 212 236 350

Frith W. P. 230 395-6 415

Frog Alley 117

_Frozen Deep_ 32-3 86 241

Furnival's Inn 24-27

GAD'S HILL 4 44 60 90-1-3 141 161 _et seq._ 241-8-9 265

393 400

Sixty years ago 191-195

"Falstaff Sir John" 163-5-7 175 207-8-9 400

Gad's Hill Place 31 42-6 85-88 93 132 161-209 217 221-2-3

224-5-7 240-1-3 271 310 363-4-9 370-1 376 400-9

Cedars at 186 192

Chalet 186-7 221-2

Charades at 197 241

Clock 229

Cricket at 208 248-9 372-3

Dick's Grave at 179

_Gazette_ 180 196-8-9

"Plough" 241

Porch at 184

Sale of 235-6 241-6 404

Sale Photograph of 230

Shrubbery at 186

Specification for alterations at 222-3

Sports at 363-4

Sun-dial 228

Theatricals at 241

Tunnel at 184-6 228

Well at 181-2

"Gavelkind" 82

Gibson Mary 46 265-6-7;

(_and see_ Weller Mary)

Robert 266-7;

Thomas 266

Giles Rev. W. 261;

Academy 261

Gillingham 275

Gordon Square 31-8;

Place 31

Gower Street 38-9

Gravesend 3 91 192 336 361-2 393

_Great Expectations_ 6 7 17 24 37 53 64 70-8 97 156 171

188 269 348 351-354 356-8 398 401-5

_Grimaldi Memoirs of_ 31

Grip the Raven 44

HARBLEDOWN 348

Hard Times 37 416;

_Fac-simile_ 419

Hastings 345

_Haunted Man_ 45

Hawke Street 255 284

Head R. 53 88

Higham 87 173-6 182 194 242 362-375 377

Hogarth G. 25;

Catherine 26;

(_and see_ Dickens Mrs. Charles) E. 34;

Mary 29;

Georgina 34 86 90 205-6 235-8 242-4 370-5-8 396 406 416

422;

William 54

Holborn 22-4-7

_Holly Tree Inn_ 263 408

Homan F. 85-88 117

Hoo 350

Hop-Picking and Cultivation 318-323

Horse Guards 49

Horsted 292

_Household Words_ 45 89 106 142 150 193 257 344 415

House on the Brook 260 1-5-6 273

Hulkes J. 163 195-198 403;

Mrs. 196 204-5;

C. J. 205

_Hunted Down_ 171

Hyde Park 46;

Corner 64;

Place 141

Hythe 345

JOHNSON'S COURT 18

John Street 28

KENNETTE A. 78

Kingsgate Street 27

Kit's Coty House 310-313 391

Kitton F. G. 4 38 102 110 127 163 205 248 316 368 393 415

Kolle W. H. 416-7

LAMERT DR. 255;

J. 256-8

Landport 255 280-286;

Commercial Road 281-2

Lang Andrew 15

Langton R. 2 3 38 83 144 216 252-5-8 264-6 277 281-2-4-6

Lapworth Prof. 6

Larkin C. 163 195

Latter Mrs. 209 400-1-2

Lawn House 326-7

Lawrence J. 59 60

"Leather Bottle" 60 386-390 396

Lemon Mark 32-4-5-6 151 232-4

Levy C. D. 246-7

_Lighthouse_ 33 86 241

Lincoln's Inn 19;

Fields 19

Linton Mrs. Lynn 167 191-195

_Little Dorrit_ 37 46 139 161 171 211 416

Littlewood J. E. 272-3

Long Mrs. 333

"Look-out House" 232

MACLISE D. 20 41-4 59 412 421

Maidstone 90-1 140 293 306-310;

Road 78 151;

Chillington Manor House 308-9 310;

Brenchley Gardens 309

Malleson J. N. 201-6

Margate 324 333-4-6;

Theatre 334-5

Marsham Rev J. J. 402-3-4

Marshes 142 188 349 350-1-7-8 403-9

_Martin Chuzzlewit_ 17 27 45 56 414

Marzials F. T. 8 29 31

_Master Humphrey's Clock_ 45

Masters Mrs. 217 219 221-6

Mechanics' Institute 267-9 270-1-3

Medway River 52-3-4 67-9 98 103 134-5 162 188 211 253 275

288-9 290-2 309 310-6;

Valley 379 382

_Memoirs of Grimaldi_ 31

Middle Temple Lane 17

Mile End Cottage 209 210

Miles Mr. 117 120

Millen T. 90-1

Minor Canon Row 92 122-4-7

Minto Prof. 409

"Mitre" 60 116 262-3-4

Mitton T. 414

Montague Street 31

_Monthly Magazine_ 18

Morgan Mr. 200-1-2

_Morning Chronicle_ 24 26 270

_Mr. Nightingale's Diary_ 35

_Mrs. Joseph Porter over the way_ 18

Mysterious Dickens-item 246-249

NAVY PAY OFFICE CHATHAM 258 274

New Brompton 80 252 270-5

New Romney 345

_Nicholas Nickleby_ 8 31 106 139 210 286 324 416

_No Thoroughfare_ 374

_OLD CURIOSITY SHOP_ 45-9 139 323 349 405

Old Sergeants' Inn 18

_Oliver Twist_ 31 232;

_Fac-simile_ 418

Ordnance Terrace 28 92 257-8 265 274;

Place 265

_Our English Watering-Place_ 317 324-31

_Our Mutual Friend_ 1 17 18 39 91 171 234 414

Overblow 402-3

Owl Club 59;

Harmonious Owls 59

PARLIAMENT STREET 48

Payne G. 130 238

Pearce Sarah 283-4;

Mr. 283;

William 284

Pear Tree Lane 313 377-8

Pemberton T. Edgar 1 241 286

Perugini Mrs. 248;

(_and see_ Dickens Kate _and_ Collins Mrs. C. A.)

_Pickwick Papers_ 5 6 20-6-9 31 50-6 62-7 70-5 111 151 231

251-5 261 273-6-9 293-5 297-306 324 373-6-9 387-8 391-3

_Pictures from Italy_ 18

"Plorn" 202

Porchester Castle 284

Portsea 255 281-2;

St. Mary's Church 255 285-6;

Hawke Street 255 284

Portsmouth 281-4-6-7;

Common Hard 287;

Dockyard 285;

Theatre 286

Portsmouth Street 19

Prall R. 57 85

Prior's Gate 127-8

Proctor R. A. 138-9

Proctors 148

_Punch_ 90 175

Purkis Mrs. 285

QUARRY HOUSE 212

RAINHAM 317-8;

Mear's Barr Farm 318

Ramsgate 336

Reculver 324;

The Sisters 324

Red Lion Square 28 31

Regent's Park 39;

Street 46 51

Restoration House 53-4 78 80 94-97 132 156

Robertson Rev. Canon 214

Robinson G. 269

Rochester 4 48 51-97 376 396 406-9

"Blue Boar" 64

Boley (or Bully) Hill 88 124 158

Boundary Lane 253

Bridge 50-4 67-70 104 215 217 226-7

"Bull Inn" 54-5 _et seq._ 104 143-5 409

Castle 69 98-110 137 216 396 406-9

Cathedral 53-4 87 90 111-141 216 406-9

Cherry Garden 54

College (or Jasper's) Gate 72 124-130

Crow Lane 78 117 156

"Crozier" 116

Deanery Gatehouse 127-9

"Duck" 117

Eastgate House 72-77 132

Episcopal Palace 130-1

Esplanade 134

Frog Alley 117

Grammar School 81-8

Guildhall 54-5 72 108

High Street 51-3-5 63-4 70 82 116 125 130 145 275 287

296 336

London and County Bank 116

Maidstone Road 78 151

Mathematical School 81 175-6

Men's Institute 75

Minor Canon Row 92 122-4-7

New Road 152

"Old Crown" 116

Prior's Gate 127-8

Restoration House 53-4 78 80 132 156;

Ghost Story 94-97

Sapsea's House 72-5-6 117

Satis House 78 97 156-8

Savings Bank 76 116

Sir J. Hawkins's Hospital 81

Sir J. Hayward's Charity 82

Star Hill 70 83

St. Bartholomew's Hospital 81

St. Catherine's Charity 81

St. Margaret's 92;

Church 151

St. Nicholas' 81 11

Cemetery 87 136-7

Church 136-7

Theatre 83 143 242 256

Vines (or Monks' Vineyard) 70-8 81 131-2-4 275 409

Watts's Almshouses 151

" Charity 72 142-160 176 409

Rye 345

Ryland Mr. Arthur 144-5;

Mrs. 33 144

SANDLING 310

Sandwich 345

Sapsea's House 72-5-6 117

Satis House 78 97 156-8

_Seven Poor Travellers_ 70 98 106 142-3 150 160 380

Seymour R. 58

Sheerness 54;

Cockle-shell Hard 101

Sheppard Dr. 342-3-4

Shorne 87 137 194 358 391-3 400-2;

Church 403-4;

Ridgway 379

Sisters Reculver 324

_Sketches by Boz_ 26 64 258 270

_Sketches of Young Gentlemen_ 31;

_of Young Couples_ 31

Smetham Henry 368

Smith C. Roach 52 101 148 231-238 290 311 366

Smith E. Orford 303

Snodland 288 290;

Brook 135;

Weir 135

Somerset House 38 264 421-3

_Song of the Wreck_ 33-4-5 415

South Kensington Museum 249 396 412

Spencer Herbert 190 406

Stanfield C. 20 32-3 86 241

Stanley Dean 88 137 423

Staplehurst 93;

Accident 198 200-1-9

Staple Inn 22-4-7

Star Hill 70 83

Steele Dr. 174 237-246

Sterry J. Ashby 3 329 345-6

Stone F. 36;

M. 91 196 200-2-7

_Strange Gentleman_ 26

St. Luke's Church Chelsea 26

St. Margaret's 92;

Church 151

St. Mary's Church Chatham 92 255;

Place 260-2

St. Mary's Church Portsea 255 285-6

St. Nicholas' Church Rochester 81 114 136-7;

Cemetery 87 136-7

St. Nicholas' Church Strood 211

St. Pancras' Road 39;

Church 39

Strood 50-5 68 80 162 182 195 211-250

"Crispin and Crispianus" 217-220

Elocution Society 235

St. Nicholas' Church 211

Preceptory 212

Quarry House 212

Temple Farm 211

_Sunday under Three Heads_ 26

Symond's Inn 19

Syms Mr. 82 115-117

_TALE OF TWO CITIES_ 17 37-9 171 204 397

Tavistock Square 32;

House 32-3-6-7 42 86 171 325

Taylor Mrs. 368-9

Temple 17;

Bar 17;

Middle Temple Lane 17;

Fountain Court 17

Temple Farm 211

Thackeray W. M. 24-6-7 234

Thames River 188 314 350;

Valley 358 378 403

_Times_ 410-414

Tom-All-Alone's 268

_Tom Thumb_ 33

Town Malling 292-3-4 302-306

Tribe Ald. 264;

Master and Miss 258 264;

John 264

Trood W. S. 175 206-209 400;

Edward 2 7 220

_UNCOMMERCIAL TRAVELLER_ 6 7 37 83 159 163-5 171 220 264-9

278

Upnor Castle 155

_VILLAGE COQUETTES_ 376

Vines The 70-8 81 131-2-4 275

WAGHORN LIEUT. 257

Watts Richard 55 142;

Almshouses 151;

Charity 72 142-160 176;

Memorial 157-8

Weald of Kent 316

Weller Mary 265-6;

(_and see_ Gibson Mary)

Westminster Abbey 87-8 137 404 423-4

Whiston Rev. R. 88-90 160

Whitefriars Street 17

Whitehall 48

Whitstable 323

Wildish W. T. 82 118 175 265 382

Wills W. H. 152;

W. G. 152 193-4

Winchelsea 345

Woburn Square 31

Wood H. 273-4

Worsfold C. K. 347

_Wreck of the Golden Mary_ 260

Wright Mr. 372-3 415;

Mrs. 370-373

THE END.

* * * * *

_Richard Clay & Sons, Limited, London & Bungay._

* * * * *

Transcriber's Notes:

Obvious punctuation errors repaired with the exception of the rounded

brackets on pages 224 and 225 as those were replicas of printings. These

two instances were left open but not closed.

Page xiv, "round" changed to "Round" (where "All the Year Round")

Page 132, "entited" changed to "entitled" (the illustration entitled)

Page 414, "caligraphy" changed to "calligraphy" (the calligraphy of)

A Week's Tramp in Dickens-Land Together with Personal Reminiscences of the 'Inimitable Boz' Therein Collected · 第 10 / 10 章