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A WEEK'S TRAMP
IN
DICKENS-LAND
[Illustration: The Marshes, Cooling.]
A WEEK'S TRAMP
IN
DICKENS-LAND
TOGETHER WITH
=Personal Reminiscences of the 'Inimitable Boz'=
THEREIN COLLECTED.
BY
WILLIAM R. HUGHES, F.L.S.
_WITH MORE THAN A HUNDRED
ILLUSTRATIONS BY F. G. KITTON
AND OTHER ARTISTS._
LONDON: CHAPMAN & HALL, LIMITED.
BOSTON: ESTES AND LAURIAT.
1891.
RICHARD CLAY & SONS, LIMITED,
LONDON & BUNGAY.
[_All Rights reserved._]
TO
MY WIFE AND DAUGHTERS,
EMILY AND EDITH,
I DEDICATE
THIS RECORD OF "A WEEK'S TRAMP,"
TO REMIND THEM OF
THE MANY PLEASANT READINGS FROM DICKENS
WE HAVE ENJOYED TOGETHER
AT HOME.
PREFACE.
* * * * *
"'I should like to show you a series of eight articles, Sir, that have
appeared in the Eatanswill Gazette. I think I may venture to say that
you would not be long in establishing your opinions on a firm and solid
basis, Sir.'
"'I dare say I should turn very blue long before I got to the end of
them,' responded Bob.
"Mr. Pott looked dubiously at Bob Sawyer for some seconds, and turning
to Mr. Pickwick said:--
"'You have seen the literary articles which have appeared at intervals
in the Eatanswill Gazette in the course of the last three months, and
which have excited such general--I may say such universal--attention and
admiration?'
"'Why,' replied Mr. Pickwick, slightly embarrassed by the question, 'the
fact is, I have been so much engaged in other ways, that I really have
not had an opportunity of perusing them.'
"'You should do so, Sir,' said Pott with a severe countenance.
"'I will,' said Mr. Pickwick.
"'They appeared in the form of a copious review of a work on Chinese
metaphysics, Sir,' said Pott.
"'Oh,' observed Mr. Pickwick--'from your pen I hope?'
"'From the pen of my critic, Sir,' rejoined Pott with dignity.
"'An abstruse subject I should conceive,' said Mr. Pickwick.
"'Very, Sir,' responded Pott, looking intensely sage. 'He _crammed_ for
it, to use a technical but expressive term; he read up for the subject,
at my desire, in the _Encyclopaedia Britannica_.'
"'Indeed!' said Mr. Pickwick; 'I was not aware that that valuable work
contained any information respecting Chinese metaphysics.'
"'He read, Sir,' rejoined Mr. Pott, laying his hand on Mr. Pickwick's
knee, and looking round with a smile of intellectual superiority, 'he
read for metaphysics under the letter M, and for China under the letter
C; and combined his information, Sir!'
"Mr. Pott's features assumed so much additional grandeur at the
recollection of the power and research displayed in the learned
effusions in question, that some minutes elapsed before Mr. Pickwick
felt emboldened to renew the conversation."
* * * * *
The above perennial extract from the immortal _Pickwick Papers_ suggests
to some extent the nature of the contents of this Volume. It is the
record of a pilgrimage made by two enthusiastic Dickensians during the
late summer of 1888, together with "combined information,"--not indeed
"crammed" from the ninth edition just completed of the valuable work
above referred to, but gathered mostly from original sources,--respecting
the places visited, the characters alluded to in some of the novels,
personal reminiscences of their Author, appropriate passages from his
works (for which acknowledgments are due to Messrs. Chapman and Hall),
and some little mention of the thoughts developed by the associations of
"Dickens-Land."
Although the pilgrimage only extended to a week, and every spot referred
to (save one) was actually visited during that time, it is but right to
state that on three subsequent occasions the author has gone over the
greater part of the same ground--once in the early winter, when the blue
clematis and the aster had given place to the yellow jasmine and the
chrysanthemum; once in the early spring, when those had been succeeded
by the almond-blossom and the crocus; and again in the following year,
when the beautiful county of Kent was rehabilitated in summer clothing,
thus enabling him to verify observations, to correct possible errors
arising from first impressions, and to gain new experiences.
As our head-quarters were at Rochester, and most of the city and other
parts were taken at odd times, it has not been found practicable to
preserve in consecutive chapters a perfect sequence of the records of
each day's tramp, although they appear in fairly chronological order
throughout the work. "A preliminary tramp in London" will possibly be
dull to those familiar with the great Metropolis, but it may be useful
to foreign tramps in "Dickens-Land."
Availing myself of the privilege adopted by most travellers at home and
abroad, I have made occasional references to the weather. This is
perhaps excusable when it is remembered that the year 1888 was a very
remarkable one in that respect, so much so indeed, that the writer of a
leading article in _The Times_ of January 18th, 1889, in commenting on
Mr. G. J. Symons' report of the British rainfall of the previous year,
remarked that "seldom within living memory had there been a twelve-month
with more unpleasantness in it and less of genial sunshine." We were
specially favoured, however, in getting more "sunshine" than
"unpleasantness," thus adding to the enjoyment of our never-to-be-forgotten
tramp.
Upwards of three years have elapsed since this book was commenced, and
the limited holiday leisure of a hard-working official life has
necessarily prevented its completion for such a lengthened period, that
it has come to be pleasantly referred to by my many Dickensian friends
as the "Dictionary," in allusion to the important work of that nature
contemplated by Dr. Strong, respecting which (says David Copperfield)
"Adams, our head-boy, who had a turn for mathematics, had made a
calculation, I was informed, of the time this Dictionary would take in
completing, on the Doctor's plan, and at the Doctor's rate of going. He
considered that it might be done in one thousand six hundred and
forty-nine years, counting from the Doctor's last, or sixty-second,
birthday."
My hearty and sincere acknowledgments are due to the publishers, Messrs.
Chapman and Hall, not only for the very handsome manner in which they
have allowed my book to be got up as regards print, paper, and execution
(to follow the model of their Victoria Edition of _Pickwick_ is indeed
an honour to me), but especially for their great liberality in the
matter of the Illustrations, which number more than a hundred. These
were selected in conference by Mr. Fred Chapman, Mr. Kitton, and myself,
and include about fifty original drawings by Mr. Kitton, from sketches
specially made by him for this work. Of the remainder, six are from
Forster's _Life of Dickens_, fifteen from Langton's _Childhood and Youth
of Charles Dickens_, seven from _Charles Dickens by Pen and Pencil_, ten
from the Jubilee Edition of _Pickwick_, and five from Rimmer's _About
England with Dickens_. A few interesting fac-similes of handwriting,
etc., have also been introduced. Surely such an eclectic series of
Dickens Illustrations has never before been presented in one volume.
To Messrs. Chapman and Hall, Mr. Robert Langton, F.R.H.S., Messrs. Frank
T. Sabin and John F. Dexter, Messrs. Macmillan and Co., and Messrs.
Chatto and Windus (the proprietors of the above-mentioned works), the
author's acknowledgments are also due, and are hereby tendered. Mr.
Stephen T. Aveling has kindly supplied an illustration of Restoration
House as it appeared in Dickens's time, and Mr. William Ball, J.P.,
generously commissioned a local artist to make a sketch of the Marshes,
which forms the frontispiece to the book, and gives a good idea of the
"long stretches of flat lands" on the Kent and Essex coasts.
To those friends whom we then met for the first time, and from whom we
subsequently received help, the author's most cordial acknowledgments
are due, and are also tendered, for kind information and assistance.
They are a goodly number, and include Mr. A. A. Arnold, Mr. Stephen T.
Aveling, Mr. William Ball, J.P., Mr. James Baird, Mr. Charles Bird,
F.G.S., Major and Mrs. Budden, Mr. W. J. Budden, Mr. R. L. Cobb, Mr. J.
Couchman, The Misses Drage, Mrs. Easedown, Mr. Franklin Homan, Mr. James
Hulkes, J.P., and Mrs. Hulkes, Mr. Apsley Kennette, Mrs. Latter, Mr. J.
Lawrence, Mr. C. D. Levy, Mr. B. Lillie, Mr. J. E. Littlewood, Mr. J. N.
Malleson, Rev. J. J. Marsham, M.A., Mrs. Masters, Mr. Miles, Mr. W.
Millen, Mr. Geo. Payne, F.S.A., Mr. William Pearce, Mr. George Robinson,
Mr. T. B. Rosseter, F.R.M.S., Dr. Sheppard, Mr. Henry Smetham, Dr.
Steele, M.R.C.S., Mr. William Syms, Mrs. Taylor, Miss Taylor, Mr. W. S.
Trood, Major Trousdell, Rev. Robert Whiston, M.A., Mr. W. T. Wildish,
Mr. Humphrey Wood, Mr. C. K. Worsfold, and Mrs. Henry Wright. The late
Mr. Roach Smith, F.S.A., took much interest in my work and gave valuable
assistance. Mr. Luke Fildes, R.A., and Mrs. Lynn Linton generously
contributed very interesting information. The Right Honourable the Earl
of Darnley, Mr. Henry Fielding Dickens, Mr. W. P. Frith, R.A., and Lady
Head, also kindly answered enquiries.
Miss Hogarth has at my request very kindly consented to the publication
of the original letters of the Novelist--about a dozen--now printed for
the first time.
My sincere thanks are due to Mr. E. W. Badger, F.R.H.S., the friend of
many years, for valuable help.
To my old friend and fellow-tramp, Mr. F. G. Kitton, with whose memory
this delightful excursion will ever be pleasantly connected, my warmest
thanks are due for reading proofs and for much kind help in many ways.
"He wos werry good to me, he wos." As Pip wrote to another "Jo," "WOT
LARX" we did have.
Last, but not least, my cordial thanks are due to Mr. Charles Dickens
for much kind information and valuable criticism.
So long as readers continue to be, so long will our great English
trilogy of cognate authors, Shakespeare, Scott, and Dickens, continue to
be read. Indeed as regards Dickens, a writer in _Blackwood_, June, 1871
(and _Blackwood_ was not always a sympathetic critic), said:--"We may
apply to him, without doubt, the surest test to which the maker can be
subject: were all his books swept by some intellectual catastrophe out
of the world, there would still exist in the world some score at least
of people, with all whose ways and sayings we are more intimately
acquainted than with those of our brothers and sisters, who would owe to
him their being. While we live Sam Weller and Dick Swiveller, Mr.
Pecksniff and Mrs. Gamp, the Micawbers and the Squeerses, can never
die. . . . They are more real than we are ourselves, and will outlive
and outlast us, as they have outlived their creator. This is the one
proof of genius which no critic, not the most carping or dissatisfied,
can gainsay."
So long also, the author ventures to think, will pilgrimages continue to
be made to the shrines of Stratford-on-Avon, Abbotsford, and Gad's Hill
Place, and to their vicinities. The modest aim of this Volume is, that
it may add a humble unit in helping to keep _his_ memory green, and that
it may be a useful and acceptable companion to pilgrims, not only of our
own country, but also from that still "Greater Britain," where "All the
Year Round" the name of Charles Dickens is almost a dearer "Household
Word" than it is with us.
WILLIAM R. HUGHES.
WOOD HOUSE, HANDSWORTH WOOD,
near BIRMINGHAM.
_30th September, 1891._
CONTENTS.
CHAP. PAGE
PREFACE vii
I. INTRODUCTORY 1
II. A PRELIMINARY TRAMP IN LONDON 7
III. ROCHESTER CITY 51
IV. ROCHESTER CASTLE 98
V. ROCHESTER CATHEDRAL 111
VI. RICHARD WATTS'S CHARITY, ROCHESTER 142
VII. AN AFTERNOON AT GAD'S HILL PLACE 161
VIII. CHARLES DICKENS AND STROOD 211
IX. CHATHAM:--ST. MARY'S CHURCH, ORDNANCE TERRACE,
THE HOUSE ON THE BROOK, THE MITRE HOTEL, AND
FORT PITT. LANDPORT:--PORTSEA, HANTS 251
X. AYLESFORD, TOWN MALLING, AND MAIDSTONE 288
XI. BROADSTAIRS, MARGATE, AND CANTERBURY 317
XII. COOLING, CLIFFE, AND HIGHAM 349
XIII. COBHAM PARK AND HALL, THE LEATHER BOTTLE, SHORNE,
CHALK, AND THE DOVER ROAD 376
XIV. A FINAL TRAMP IN ROCHESTER AND LONDON 405
INDEX 427
LIST
OF
ILLUSTRATIONS
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
PAGE
THE MARSHES, COOLING _Frontispiece_
_F. G. Kitton_ (from a Sketch by _E. L. Meadows_)
HEADPIECE, "HUMOUR" (From two Statuettes of "Mr. Pickwick"
and "Sam Weller" in Crown Derby Ware)
Engraved by _R. Langton_ xvii
THE GOLDEN CROSS _Herbert Railton_ 10
YOUNG DICKENS AT THE BLACKING WAREHOUSE _F. Barnard_ 12
FOUNTAIN COURT, TEMPLE _C. A. Vanderhoof_ 16
STAPLE INN, HOLBORN " " 21
BARNARD'S INN _Herbert Railton_ 23
DICKENS'S HOUSE, FURNIVAL'S INN " " 25
NO. 48, DOUGHTY STREET _J. Grego_ 28
TAVISTOCK HOUSE, TAVISTOCK SQUARE _J. Liddell_ 30
NO. 141, BAYHAM STREET _F. G. Kitton_ 37
NO. 1, DEVONSHIRE TERRACE _D. Maclise, R.A._ 40
FAC-SIMILE OF LETTER, CHARLES DICKENS 43
APOTHEOSIS OF "GRIP" THE RAVEN _D. Maclise, R.A._ 45
"MY MAGNIFICENT ORDER AT THE PUBLIC HOUSE" _Phiz_ 49
BULL INN, ROCHESTER--"GOOD HOUSE, NICE BEDS" _Herbert Railton_ 56
STAIRCASE AT "THE BULL" _F. G. Kitton_ 58
THE "ELEVATED DEN" IN THE BALL-ROOM, "BULL INN" _F. G. Kitton_ 61
OLD ROCHESTER BRIDGE _Herbert Railton_ 68
THE GUILDHALL, ROCHESTER _F. G. Kitton_ 71
THE "MOON-FACED" CLOCK IN HIGH STREET " " 72
IN HIGH STREET, ROCHESTER " " 73
EASTGATE HOUSE, ROCHESTER " " 74
MR. SAPSEA'S HOUSE, ROCHESTER " " 76
MR. SAPSEA'S FATHER (After sketch by _H. Wickham_) 77
RESTORATION HOUSE, ROCHESTER _F. G. Kitton_ 79
OLD ROCHESTER THEATRE, STAR HILL _W. Hull_ 84
THE CASTLE FROM ROCHESTER BRIDGE _F. G. Kitton_ 99
THE KEEP OF ROCHESTER CASTLE _Herbert Railton_ 101
INTERIOR OF ROCHESTER CASTLE _F. G. Kitton_ 105
ROCHESTER CASTLE AND THE MEDWAY " " 109
ROCHESTER CATHEDRAL " " 112
ROCHESTER CATHEDRAL, INTERIOR " " 115
THE CRYPT, ROCHESTER CATHEDRAL _Phiz_ 118
MINOR CANON ROW, ROCHESTER _F. G. Kitton_ 123
COLLEGE GATE (OR "CHERTSEY'S" GATE), ROCHESTER " " 125
PRIOR'S GATE, ROCHESTER " " 126
DEANERY GATE, ROCHESTER " " 128
THE VINES AND RESTORATION HOUSE, ROCHESTER " " 131
RESTORATION HOUSE, AS IT APPEARED IN DICKENS'S TIME
(Engraved from a Drawing by an Amateur) 133
ST. NICHOLAS' BURYING-GROUND _F. G. Kitton_ 136
MEMORIAL BRASS IN ROCHESTER CATHEDRAL 138
THE "SIX POOR TRAVELLERS" _F. G. Kitton_ 143
RICHARD WATTS'S ALMSHOUSES, ROCHESTER " " 149
FAC-SIMILES OF SIGNATURES OF CHARLES DICKENS AND MARK LEMON 151
THE "SIX POOR TRAVELLERS" FROM THE REAR _F. G. Kitton_ 153
A DORMITORY IN THE "SIX POOR TRAVELLERS": GALLERY LEADING
TO THE DORMITORIES _F. G. Kitton_ 154
SATIS HOUSE (From a Photograph) 156
WATTS'S MONUMENT IN ROCHESTER CATHEDRAL _R. Langton_ 157
ROCHESTER FROM STROOD HILL _C. Marshall_ 162
THE "SIR JOHN FALSTAFF" INN, GAD'S HILL _F. G. Kitton_ 164
GAD'S HILL PLACE " " 166
"THE EMPTY CHAIR." GAD'S HILL, NINTH OF JUNE, 1870
_F. G. Kitton_ (from the Drawing by _S. L. Fildes, R.A._) 170
COUNTERFEIT BOOK-BACKS ON STUDY DOOR _R. Langton_ 172
GAD'S HILL PLACE FROM THE REAR _J. Liddell_ 177
"THE GRAVE OF DICK, THE BEST OF BIRDS" _F. G. Kitton_ 178
THE WELL AT GAD'S HILL PLACE " " 181
THE PORCH, GAD'S HILL PLACE _J. Liddell_ 183
THE CEDARS, GAD'S HILL _E. Hull_ 185
VIEW FROM THE ROOF OF DICKENS'S HOUSE, GAD'S HILL _F. G. Kitton_ 189
FAC-SIMILES OF _GAD'S HILL GAZETTE_ AND FINAL NOTICE 199-203
TEMPLE FARM, STROOD _F. G. Kitton_ 213
AT TEMPLE FARM, STROOD " " 214
CRYPT, TEMPLE FARM " " 215
THE "CRISPIN AND CRISPIANUS," STROOD " " 218
OLD QUARRY HOUSE, STROOD " " 236
FRINDSBURY CHURCH " " 239
ROCHESTER FROM STROOD PIER " " 245
ST. MARY'S CHURCH, CHATHAM _W. Dadson_ 256
NO. 11, ORDNANCE TERRACE, CHATHAM _E. Hull_ 259
THE HOUSE ON THE BROOK, CHATHAM " 260
GILES'S SCHOOL, CHATHAM " 261
MITRE INN, CHATHAM " 263
NAVY-PAY OFFICE, CHATHAM " 275
FORT PITT, CHATHAM _Herbert Railton_ 277
BIRTHPLACE OF CHARLES DICKENS, PORTSEA (From a Photograph) 281
ST. MARY'S CHURCH, PORTSEA _R. Langton_ 285
AYLESFORD _F. G. Kitton_ 289
AYLESFORD BRIDGE " " 291
THE HIGH STREET, TOWN MALLING _Herbert Railton_ 293
COB TREE HALL _F. G. Kitton_ 297
CRICKET GROUND, TOWN MALLING " " 302
THE MEDWAY AT MAIDSTONE " " 307
CHILLINGTON MANOR HOUSE, MAIDSTONE " " 310
KIT'S COTY HOUSE " " 312
KIT'S COTY HOUSE AND "BLUE BELL" " " 315
(From the Painting by Gegan)
HOP-PICKING IN KENT _F. G. Kitton_ 319
"BLEAK HOUSE," BROADSTAIRS " " 328
OLD LOOK-OUT HOUSE, BROADSTAIRS " " 332
THE "FALSTAFF," WESTGATE, CANTERBURY " " 335
THE "DANE JOHN" FROM THE CITY WALL, CANTERBURY " " 337
BELL HARRY TOWER, CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL " " 339
SCENE OF THE MARTYRDOM, CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL " " 341
"BITS" OF OLD CANTERBURY _C. A. Vanderhoof_ 342
"THE LITTLE INN," CANTERBURY _F. G. Kitton_ 345
GRAVES OF THE COMPORT FAMILY, COOLING CHURCHYARD " " 353
COOLING CHURCH _C. A. Vanderhoof_ 355
GATEWAY, COOLING CASTLE _F. G. Kitton_ 359
CLIFFE CHURCH " " 361
COBHAM HALL _Herbert Railton_ 381
DICKENS'S CHALET, NOW IN COBHAM PARK _J. Liddell_ 384
THE "LEATHER BOTTLE," COBHAM _F. G. Kitton_ 387
THE OLD PARLOUR OF THE "LEATHER BOTTLE" _E. Hull_ 389
COBHAM CHURCH _Herbert Railton_ 390
SHORNE CHURCH _F. G. Kitton_ 392
CURIOUS OLD FIGURE OVER THE PORCH, CHALK CHURCH _F. G. Kitton_ 394
"THERE'S MILESTONES ON THE DOVER ROAD" " " 400
DOORWAY, ROCHESTER CATHEDRAL " " 407
FAC-SIMILES OF CHARLES DICKENS'S HANDWRITING 1837, 1850,
1854, 1870 418-20
THE GRAVE IN WESTMINSTER ABBEY _F. G. Kitton_ 425
TAILPIECE, "PATHOS" (From two Plaques of the "Old Man"
and "Little Nell" in Wedgwood Ware) Engraved by _R. Langton_ xx
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
A WEEK'S TRAMP
IN
DICKENS-LAND.
CHAPTER I.
INTRODUCTORY.
"So wishing you well in the way you go, we now
conclude with the observation, that perhaps you'll
go it."--_Our Mutual Friend._
AMONG the many interesting books that have been published relating to
Charles Dickens since his death, more than twenty years ago (it seems
but yesterday to some of his admirers), there are at least half a dozen
that describe the "country" peopled by the deathless characters created
by his genius.
Probably the pioneer in this class of literature was that comprehensive
work, _Dickens's London, or London in the Works of Charles Dickens_, by
my friend, that thorough Dickensian, Mr. T. Edgar Pemberton, 1876; this
was followed by a very readable volume, _In Kent with Charles Dickens_,
by Thomas Frost, 1880; then came a dainty tome from Boston, U.S.A.,
entitled, _A Pickwickian Pilgrimage_, by John R. G. Hassard, 1881.
Afterwards appeared _The Childhood and Youth of Charles Dickens_, by
Robert Langton, 1883, beautifully illustrated by the late William Hull
of Manchester, the author, and others--a work developed from the
_brochure_ by the same author, _Charles Dickens and Rochester_, 1880,
which has passed through five editions. Next to Forster's _Life of
Dickens_, Mr. Robert Langton's larger work undoubtedly ranks--especially
from the richness of the illustrations--as a very valuable original
contribution to the biography of the great novelist. Another handsome
volume, containing the illustrations to a series of papers in
_Scribner's Monthly_--written by B. E. Martin--entitled _About England
with Dickens_, came from the pen of Mr. Alfred Rimmer, 1883, and
included additional illustrations drawn by the author, C. A. Vanderhoof,
and others. Yet another little _brochure_ recently appeared, called
_London Rambles en zigzag with Charles Dickens_, by Robert Allbut, 1886.
Lastly, there was published in the Christmas Number of _Scribner's
Magazine_, 1887, an article, "In Dickens-Land," by Edward Percy Whipple,
in which this veteran and appreciative critic of the eminent English
writer's works points out that, "In addition to the practical life that
men and women lead, constantly vexed as it is by obstructive facts,
there is an interior life which they _imagine_, in which facts smoothly
give way to sentiments, ideas, and aspirations. Dickens has, in short,
discovered and colonized one of the waste districts of 'Imagination,'
which we may call 'Dickens-Land,' or 'Dickens-Ville,' . . . better known
than such geographical countries as Canada and Australia, . . . and
confirming us in the belief of the _reality_ of a population which has
no _actual_ existence."
It must not be assumed that the above list exhausts the literature on
the subject of "Dickens-Land," many references to which are made in such
high-class works as Augustus J. C. Hare's _Walks in London_, and
Lawrence Hutton's _Literary Landmarks of London_.
Since the above was written, a very interesting and prettily illustrated
article has appeared in the _English Illustrated Magazine_ for October,
1888, entitled "Charles Dickens and Southwark," by Mr. J. Ashby-Sterry,
who is second to none as an enthusiastic admirer and loyal student of
Dickens. There is also a paper in _Longman's Magazine_ for the same
month, by the delightful essayist A. K. H. B., called "That Longest
Day," in which there are several allusions to Dickens and
"Dickens-Land." It, however, lacks the freshness of his earlier
writings. Surely he must have lost his old love for Dickens, or things
must have gone wrong at the Ecclesiastical Conference which took place
at Gravesend on "That Longest Day." Altogether it is pitched in a minor
key.
None of these contributions (with the exception of Mr. Langton's book),
interesting as they are, and indispensable to the collector, attempt in
any way to give personal reminiscences of Charles Dickens from friends
or others, nor do they in any way help to throw light on his everyday
life at home, beyond what was known before.
The circumstances narrated in this work do not concern the imaginary
"Dickens-Land" of Mr. Whipple, but refer to the actual country in which
the imaginary characters played their parts, and to that still more
interesting actual country in which Dickens lived long and loved
most--the county of Kent.
On Friday, 24th August, 1888, two friends met in London--one of them,
the writer of these lines, a Dickens collector of some years'
experience; the other, Mr. F. G. Kitton, author of that sumptuous work,
_Charles Dickens by Pen and Pencil_; both ardent admirers of "the
inimitable 'Boz,'" and lovers of nature and art.
We were a sort of self-constituted roving commission, to carry into
effect a long-projected intention to make a week's tramp in
"Dickens-Land," for purposes of health and recreation; to visit Gad's
Hill, Rochester, Chatham, and neighbouring classical ground; to go over
and verify some of the most important localities rendered famous in the
novels; to identify, if possible, doubtful spots; and to glean, under
whatever circumstances naturally developed in the progress of our tramp,
additions in any form to the many interesting memorials already
published, and still ever growing, relating to the renowned novelist.
The idea of recording our reminiscences was not a primary consideration.
It grew out of our experiences, generating a desire for others to become
acquainted with the results of our enjoyable peregrinations; and the
labour therein involved has been somewhat of the kind described by Lewis
Morris:--
"For this of old is sure,
That change of toil is toil's sufficient cure."
We mixed with representatives of the classes of domestics, labourers,
artizans, traders, professional men, and scientists. Many of those whom
we met were advanced in years,--several were octogenarians,--and there
is no doubt that we have been the means of placing on record here and
there an interesting item from the past generation (mostly told in the
exact words of the narrators) that might otherwise have perished. This
is a special feature of this work, which makes it different from all
the preceding. In every instance we were received with very great
kindness, courtesy, and attention. The replies to our questions were
frank and generous, and in several cases permission was accorded us to
make copies of original documents not hitherto made public.
Considering that almost every inch of ground connected with Dickens has
been so thoroughly explored, we were, on the whole, quite satisfied with
our excursion: "the results were equal to the appliances."
By a coincidence, the month which we selected (August) was Dickens's
favourite month, if we may judge from the opening sentences of the
sixteenth chapter of _Pickwick_:--
"There is no month in the whole year, in which
nature wears a more beautiful appearance than in
the month of August. Spring has many beauties, and
May is a fresh and blooming month, but the charms
of this time of year are enhanced by their
contrast with the winter season. August has no
such advantage. It comes when we remember nothing
but clear skies, green fields, and sweet-smelling
flowers--when the recollection of snow, and ice,
and bleak winds, has faded from our minds as
completely as they have disappeared from the
earth,--and yet what a pleasant time it is.
Orchards and cornfields ring with the hum of
labour; trees bend beneath the thick clusters of
rich fruit which bow their branches to the ground;
and the corn, piled in graceful sheaves, or waving
in every light breath that sweeps above it, as if
it wooed the sickle, tinges the landscape with a
golden hue. A mellow softness appears to hang over
the whole earth; the influence of the season seems
to extend itself to the very wagon, whose slow
motion across the well-reaped field, is
perceptible only to the eye, but strikes with no
harsh sound upon the ear."
By another coincidence, the day which we selected to commence our tramp
was Friday--the day upon which most of the important incidents of
Dickens's life happened, as appears from frequent references in
Forster's _Life_ to the subject.
Provided with a selection of books inseparably connected with the
subject of our tour, including, of course, copies of _Pickwick_, _Great
Expectations_, _Edwin Drood_, _The Uncommercial Traveller_, Bevan's
_Tourist's Guide to Kent_, one or two local Handbooks, one of Bacon's
useful cycling maps, with a sketch map of the geology of the district
(which greatly helped us to understand many of its picturesque effects,
and was kindly furnished by Professor Lapworth, LL.D., F.R.S., of the
Mason College, Birmingham), and with a pocket aneroid barometer, which
every traveller should possess himself with if he wishes to make
convenient arrangements as regards weather, we make a preliminary tramp
in London.