CHAPTER VIII

THE CITY CHURCHES

The parish churches of Sir Christopher Wren once numbered fifty-three.

Of these, St. Andrew Holborn, St. Clement Danes, and St. James

Piccadilly, cannot rightly be included amongst the City churches,

as they are outside “the square mile.” Of the remaining fifty, St.

Dunstan-in-the-East, St. Mary Aldermary, St. Sepulchre, and the

destroyed St. Christopher, were only repaired by Wren. Fifteen have

been wholly destroyed, and of St. Mary Somerset only the tower remains.

Only thirty therefore remain in the City, and of these many have been

so modernised that their value has in part disappeared.

[Illustration: S^T VEDAST]

Many devout admirers of Wren have done his memory a serious disservice

by indiscriminate praise. It is no doubt an amiable fault, but it

does much to confuse serious public issues, such as the question of

“the nineteen doomed churches” which has lately agitated the public

mind and will do so again. I will not discuss here whether it is

ever permissible to remove any church, but if destruction can in any

circumstances be allowed, discussion must revolve round the quality of

what is doomed. It is common form for disputants to talk as though

all city churches were Wren churches, and all Wren churches perfect

churches. In point of fact thirteen of the nineteen were by Wren. Of

the six that were not, St. Mary Woolnoth, by Hawksmoor, is of as great

importance as a Wren church, and much more interesting than many. Of

the “doomed” thirteen by Wren, St. Vedast Foster Lane, is said now to

be out of danger: the steeple is superb, the nave merely a restoration

with some good fittings left. The leaded lantern on the tower of St.

Nicholas Cole Abbey, is exceedingly valuable, and its removal would

be a crime, but it would be a waste of tears to shed them on the

modernized nave. St. Stephen’s, Coleman Street, also has a pleasant

little lantern, but if anyone supposes the interior is typical Wren he

cannot detect the more glaring feats of the restorer.

[Illustration: S^T ALBAN]

In the case of St. Michael Paternoster Royal, St. Michael Cornhill, St.

Mary Aldermanbury, St. Anne and St. Agnes, St. Alban Wood Street, and

All Hallows Lombard Street, there is enough of characteristic Wren in

tower or church, or both, to justify retention; but it is difficult to

be enthusiastic about St. Clement Eastcheap, now, and it cannot have

been easy before the church was modernized. If a hand were laid on a

stone of St. Magnus London Bridge, it would be an abomination.

The tower of St. Dunstan-in-the-East is unique for its date, and

of quite extraordinary interest: any idea of removing it should be

resisted with vehemence. But why anyone should be the least concerned

at the disappearance of the body of the church is known only to those

who detect beauty in the Gothic adventures of Messrs. Laing and Tite

in the year 1810. Of St. Mary-at-Hill the ugly 1780 tower replaced

a mediæval tower which escaped the fire, and the interior has been

somewhat havocked in latter days.

St. Clement Eastcheap has some good fittings, but, always small and

unimportant, its quality has been greatly modified by the restorer.

These notes are set down in the hope that the case for the maintenance

forever of the nobler works of Wren will not be vitiated, confused,

and, in the minds of plain men, made ridiculous by hysterical praise

of his meanest buildings from which such small quality as they once

possessed has been removed by modern vandalisms.

[Illustration: S^T DUNSTAN’S]

The achievement of Sir Christopher Wren was vast, and for that very

reason there must be discrimination between those buildings on which

he lavished his utmost personal care and those which, in the press of

a huge practice, were designed mainly by assistants and carried out

probably with the slenderest supervision by the master.

A glance at the Chronology I print in an appendix will show the sort of

pressure at which Wren worked during the ten years following the Fire.

Examination of the Accounts of the City Churches reveals that payments

began to be made in 1670 to the builders of _seventeen_ churches, and

six years later the number had grown to _twenty-eight_.

Actual work on practically the whole of the fifty-three had been

completed by 1690. None was begun after 1686 and payments were made on

eight only between 1690 and 1695.

Wren did comparatively little after 1700 except the completion of St.

Paul’s and Greenwich. This means that the great majority of his vast

bulk of achievement was done within about thirty years.

Is it any wonder that some of his churches show signs of haste and want

of thought? Can we suppose anything but that some of them were left

largely to assistants?

The year of his first marriage was his _annus mirabilis_, for during

1669 he must have been working on the plans for the seventeen churches

which began to be built in 1670, and he was developing the design of

St. Paul’s at the same time.

Evelyn’s word _prodigious_ seems to meet the case.

I have already referred to the towers and spires as showing Wren’s

sure touch as a tower-planner, but the amazing variety of their

treatment is notable evidence of Wren being, _par excellence_, the

architect of adventure. As I wrote many years ago in a detailed

examination[A] of the leaded spires, “he created within the square

mile of the city more forms of steeples than all the architects of the

Middle Ages, and if, as was inevitable, some pay the penalty of rash

experiment, others made an assured success.” Twenty-eight of the towers

are crowned with either spire or lantern, nine of stone, and nineteen

of leaded timber. Some are true spires, others spire-form steeples,

and the rest lanterns: this classification is loose and arbitrary,

but “Wren’s masterful way of playing with architectural elements

and combining them in astonishing ways makes havoc of any orderly

description.”

The preponderance of leaded spires may be attributed partly to his

affection for the most characteristic English metal--he chose it for

St. Paul’s dome after considering copper--and partly to their cheapness

as compared with stone.

[Illustration: S^T MAGNUS]

St. Swithin’s Cannon Street has a spire of Gothic type, and Wren

stepped from the square of the tower to the octagon of the spire by

trimming the tower angles to a splay, a short cut no mediæval builder

would have employed. At St. Margaret’s Pattens Rood Lane, the tower

finishes normally with pinnacles at the corners, and the spire, instead

of being leaded with vertical rolls as at St. Swithin’s, is treated

with a series of sunk panels, a beautiful and ingenious method: St.

Margaret’s spire is indeed a faultless work. Wren did nothing in stone

to match the form of these two. Exquisite in its delicacy is the leaded

needle spire of St. Martin Ludgate, set on an arcaded lantern which

grows in turn out of an ogee roof, and the latter break is marked by

a railed balcony. Obelisks take the place of a spire at St. Margaret

Lothbury, a steeple of miraculous simplicity, and at St. Mildred’s

Bread Street. The tower of St. Lawrence Jewry is crowned by a more

massive composition, and the outline of St. Augustine’s Watling Street

is a little uncertain. At St. Benet Paul’s Wharf the combination of

dome and lantern is perfect in its little way.

[Illustration: S^T MARGARET’S PATTENS]

Amongst the stone steeples St. Mary-le-Bow and St. Bride’s Fleet Street

will always have champions to argue which is the greater. Bow Tower has

a romantic, almost Jacobean, quality which contrasts strongly with the

austere outline of St. Bride’s. It may be significant of a special

importance attached to it by Wren that it is the only tower which has a

bill of account, separate from that of the church, in the full priced

accounts which I have dealt with in detail elsewhere. It cost £7,388

and the church £8,071, whereas St. Bride’s altogether accounted only

for £11,430.

[Illustration: S^T BRIDE’S]

The question of the money spent on the City churches is of considerable

interest. The total paid out was £263,786 10s. 4½d., and the amounts

entered up against each church were corrected to farthings. These

figures exclude most of the internal fittings, which must have been

the gift of pious parishioners. The MS. accounts in the Bodleian are

abstracted in my _Archæologia_ paper,[B] and give the names of every

mason, bricklayer, plumber, painter, etc., employed, with the amounts

he (or sometimes she) received. I transcribed the complete bills for

St. Mary-le-Bow with Bow Tower and for St. Stephen’s Walbrook. The

latter cost £7,652 13s. 8d., and only six churches exceeded that sum.

In some ways it is the most notable of them all, for Wren contrived

to give the effect of nave, aisles and crossing to a plain room by

his ingenuity in carrying a circular dome on eight arches which rest

on an entablature supported by twelve columns. East of the dome is

one groined bay, and west of it two groined bays divided by four more

columns: the side aisles have flat ceilings. The plan is thus an

oblong room with sixteen free columns, but so cleverly disposed as to

produce the variety of effect described above. Sir Reginald Blomfield

justly says of the details that they are “coarse and irrelevant,” but

the interior is a masterpiece of scenic planning, and the dome a not

unworthy trial piece for what followed at St. Paul’s. A melancholy

remodelling in 1847-8, the plans of which are preserved at the

R.I.B.A., destroyed some of the character of the church, but the

accompanying illustration shows it in the “unimproved” state as Wren

left it.

[Illustration: PLATE VIII

ST. STEPHEN’S, WALBROOK.]

St. Lawrence Jewry is another of the churches in which the architect

was not pinched for funds. It cost £11,870, but is on a somewhat

uninteresting plan--oblong, with an aisle on one side only. Here, as in

almost every church he built, Wren was a determined economist of space,

and with good reason. About eighty churches had been destroyed in the

Fire, only fifty were rebuilt, and every sitting was of importance. So

he did not square up his building if the site was irregular, but made

the best, usually a very ingenious best, of whatever odd shape he had

to cover in. And there was another consideration. It is obvious from

the sums paid for many of the churches, as well as from the evidence

of the fabrics, that Wren did not pull down an old wall if he could

mend it and save it. There is, therefore, all the more reason to

respect these City churches, which retain so much history in their

walls, going back even to the earliest times. Always practical and

always an opportunist of the right sort, he made the best job he

could with the materials and money he had at disposal. A more general

realisation of this would prevent criticism of details, which ought

to be addressed rather to parsimonious clients than to the architect.

Sometimes, however, he made a brilliant excursion to meet the needs

of an odd-shaped site as at St. Benet Fink, which he planned as a

decagon. This enchanting church stood behind the Royal Exchange and

had a beautiful little dome and lantern on its tower: the late Mr.

Peabody now sits in bronze on the site. At St. Antholin’s, a church in

Watling Street, with a superb stone tower and spire, all swept away in

circumstances of infamy, he got over a swerve in the street alinement

by splaying the plan at the west end. At St. Mary Abchurch and St.

Swithin’s, he had short, broad, and slightly irregular sites to deal

with, and covered in a square with a dome and let the rest work out

as it would. St. Mildred Bread Street is a longer oblong which Wren

treated very delightfully by covering the middle with a dome and the

ends with round arches. The need to house large congregations led

him to provide galleries at Christ Church Newgate Street, St. James

Piccadilly, St. Bride’s, St. Andrew-in-the-Wardrobe, and elsewhere.

Wren’s outlook on the whole problem of parish-church design was

indicated with his usual clarity in a letter which he wrote to guide

his fellow Commissioners in the task of building fifty new churches in

Queen Anne’s reign. Written when he was nearing eighty, the letter sums

up the experience of an amazing lifetime of church building.

[Illustration: S^T MILDRED·BREAD S^T]

He is strongly against burials in churches and commends the idea

of cemeteries on the outskirts of the towns which will “bound the

excessive growth of the City with a graceful border, which is now

encircled with scavengers’ dung stalls.”

[Illustration: S^T BRIDE’S]

In the siting of churches, Wren is against too nice an observation of

“east and west in the position, unless it falls out properly,” and

wants to see them brought as forward as possible into the larger and

more open streets. “Such fronts as shall happen to lie most open to

view should be adorned with porticoes, both for beauty and convenience;

which together with handsome spires or lanterns rising in good

proportion above the neighbouring houses (of which I have given several

examples in the City of different forms) may be of sufficient ornament

to the town, without a great expense for enriching the outward walls of

the churches, in which plainness and duration ought principally, if not

wholly, to be studied....”

A long paragraph is devoted to the question of materials. He complains

bitterly of the badness of the available bricks, despite the fact that

London earth will yield a brick more durable than “any stone our island

affords.”

Wren is all for Portland-stone for windows and doors, and likes oak for

roofs “because it will bear some negligence. The churchwardens’ care

may be defective in speedy mending drips: they usually whitewash the

church, and set up their names, but neglect to preserve the roof over

their heads.”

There is an oddly topical flavour in the note that “the wars in the

North Sea make timber at present of excessive price,” and a prophecy

of Imperial trading in: “I suppose, ere long, we must have recourse to

the West Indies, where most excellent timber may be had for cutting and

fetching.”

As to roof coverings, “our tiles are ill-made and our slates not good:

lead is certainly the best and lightest covering, and being of our

own growth and manufacture, and lasting, if properly made, for many

hundred years, is, without question, the most preferable; though I

will not deny but an excellent tile may be made to be very durable:

our artisans are not yet instructed in it, and it is not soon done

to inform them....” If the Gothic Revivalists had worked on Wren’s

lines, the Church would not now be saddled with a legacy of badly built

Kentish rag and rubble churches and spires, thinly roofed with Welsh

slates, an endless anxiety to parishes unable to find money to remedy

original defects of construction.

Wren’s next point is of the essence of the problem which he was facing,

how to provide the accommodation required for the people.

Even if the new fifty churches were to hold 2,000 apiece, there would

not be room enough. “The churches, therefore, must be large, but

still, in our reformed religion, it should seem vain to make a parish

church larger than that all who are present can both hear and see.

The Romanists, indeed, may build larger churches; it is enough if

they hear the murmur of the Mass, and see the elevation of the Host;

but ours are to be fitted for auditories.” Wren then quotes his St.

James’s Piccadilly as the most practicable model of “a single room so

capacious, with pews and galleries, as to hold above 2,000 persons,

and all to hear the service and both to hear distinctly and see the

preacher.” He claims for St. James’s that it is a beautiful and

convenient form, with “no walls of a second order, nor lanterns nor

buttresses, but the whole roof rests upon the pillars, as do also the

galleries ... the cheapest of any form I could invent.” St. James’s

Piccadilly cost £8,500, so its accommodation for 2,000 persons worked

out at £4 5s. a seat. This church is really in the line of development

of the old English timber Hall so far as its constructive idea is

concerned. It lent itself to the passing need of galleries, but they

are not essential to the idea, as is sometimes supposed.

In discussing the place for the pulpit Wren has some shrewd things to

say about the enunciation of English parsons, which hold good to-day:

“A Frenchman is heard further than an English preacher because he

raises his voice and sinks not his last words ... an insufferable fault

in the pronunciation of some of our otherwise excellent preachers.”

Wren would have appreciated the similar advice of a modern bishop to

a class of candidates for ordination, that they should not drop their

voices at the end of a sentence “lest the congregation might suppose,

_however erroneously_, that they had lost something.” On the vexed

question of seating the people, our architect has some shrewd words: “A

church should not be so filled with pews, but that the poor may have

room enough to stand and sit in the alleys: _for to them equally is the

Gospel preached_.”

We may guess that Wren would have been all for the rush-bottomed chair

if it had been invented in his day: “It were to be wished there were to

be no pews, but benches: but there is no stemming the tide of profit,

and the advantage of pew-keepers.”

I have quoted at length from this letter in order to mark the massive

common sense which Wren brought to the solution of his problems.

Mr. Arthur Bolton gives me the interesting parallel of 1818, when

Sir John Soane reported to the Government on the national church

building scheme. His recommendations show that he worked on his great

predecessor’s report and he even sent to St. James’s and measured it

as a typical instance. As, however, the year 1818 preferred numbers to

quality, the results fell far below those of the earlier century.

It was Wren’s quality of common sense as much as the genius of the

artist that made his City churches what they are, practical solutions

of practical difficulties and instinct with the English spirit of

compromise, but none the less the greatest group of churches created in

any country by the genius and practical wisdom of one man.

Sir Christopher Wren · 第 8 / 14 章