CONSTRUCTION OF CONTROLLABLE HIVES.
ON the opposite page is given Figure I. of a perspective view of the
Controllable Bee Hive, with the measurements of its exterior parts.
The body of the hive is made in two parts, A and B. The lower edges of
the upper part B rest upon the cleats C, attached to the outside of
the lower part of A, near its upper edge--as will be seen by reference
to Figures I. and II. The middle board D of the bottom is loose, and
is held in place by hooks E. The middle board F, at the sides of the
lower part A, are loose, hinged at their lower edges, and are held in
place when closed by the buttons G. In front of the lower part A, near
both its lower and upper edges, are formed slots, or bee passages, H.
The lower part A is divided longitudinally into three compartments by
two movable partitions. The side compartments are designed to receive
the honey boxes J; and the center compartment forms the brood section.
To the inner surfaces of the front and rear walls of the brood section
are attached boards, forming a double thickness, to secure a more even
temperature, keeping out the heat in summer and the cold in winter.
The grain of the inner board runs crosswise of the outer one to
prevent warping. The upper edges of the inner boards are rebated out
five-eighths inch square inside, to receive the ends of the comb frames
of the brood section.
[Illustration: Controllable Hive. Fig. II.]
Figure II. is a perspective view of the Controllable Hive, with the
upper part of the case removed, showing the position of the glass honey
boxes at the top, with the feeder T in the rear, and also showing the
position of the side boxes J, in the large frame O. as shown more
clearly in Figure III. The inner ends of the side boxes J, next to the
brood section, are formed of boards C, narrower than the boxes, leaving
side spaces, to allow the bees to pass in and out freely from the brood
section to the side boxes. When top boxes and feeder are not on, a
board called a honey board is placed over the brood section, fitting
very closely, so as to confine the heat, generated by the bees, to the
brood section. In winter the brood section is covered by a ventilator
made as follows: Take a piece of fine board one-half inch thick. Get
out two pieces, each one inch wide and twenty-two and three-eighths
inches long, and two pieces of same width each ten inches long. Nail
the short pieces on to the ends of the long pieces, forming a frame
nine inches wide by twenty-two and three-eighths inches long, inside
measurement. Over this frame tack a piece of wire cloth twenty-three
and three-eighths inches long, by ten inches wide, of a very fine mesh.
This frame will just fit over the brood section, and give a space
between the wire cloth and the top of the comb frames of about one and
three-eighths inches. Tack the wire cloth on closely, so no bees can
escape when the ventilator is in place. This ventilator is to be used
only in winter, as directed under the chapter on Wintering.
Figure III., on next page, is a perspective view of a set of side
surplus honey boxes and their inclosing frame, with measurements of the
different parts.
[Illustration: Side Surplus Honey Boxes. Fig. III.]
The brood section of the hive is twenty and one-half inches long, nine
inches wide and twelve inches deep, inside measurement. The brood
section contains six movable comb frames, resting on rebatings, and
held at the proper distance apart at the bottom by a brace. The only
plate where these frames touch the hive, is where the top bar of the
comb frames rests on the rebating at the ends. To the top bar of each
comb frame (on the under side) is nailed a triangular comb guide to aid
in securing straight combs. Each side of the triangle is one inch wide.
A piece of board one inch wide and three-eighths inch thick is laid on
top of the comb frames lengthwise in the centre on this piece. The ends
of the top boxes rest in the center where they come together. Notches
are cut on the underside, crosswise, to admit of the passage of the
bees.[13]
[Footnote 13: I have exercised great care, and incurred considerable
expense, in giving drawings with measurements and directions for
constructing Controllable Hives, glass boxes, etc., that such of my
readers as wish may be able to construct the hives and manage bees
according to the new system as taught in this work. I have no time or
desire to establish a business in the manufacture of hives, but if any
of my readers want a full sized Controllable Hive, ready for a swarm
of bees, the better to enable them to make the Controllable Hive, I
will furnish them. Price eight dollars. In no case will I furnish more
than one to the same address. The hive is not patent, so any one can
manufacture and use as many as they wish. They can make them at their
home, especially in the winter season, much cheaper than I can furnish
them.]
In the construction of hives use the best dry pine lumber, free from
Haws or cracks, and put on a good coat of paint to protect from the
weather. As the hives are to remain in the open air the year round, the
best of lumber is required, and that to be well protected with a heavy
coat of the most durable paint. Make close-fitting joints and nail
thoroughly.
These hives, if properly constructed of sound lumber, will last many
years. I have had the same hive on one stand incessantly for six years,
and at the end of that time it is as good, to all appearances, as when
first put there.
All who desire to construct Controllable Hives, and adopt the plan of
bee management recommended in this book, can do so freely, as there is
no patent on the hive, or any of its parts or fixtures.
[Illustration]