BOXES FOR SURPLUS HONEY.
IN the last chapter directions were given, when to put on boxes, but
it is important to know more about this matter, the kind of boxes to
use, how made, etc. I shall recommend a glass-box; that is, glass sides
with wood corner-posts, top, and bottom,[4] such as I use with the
Controllable Hive. The size and description of box is as follows, viz:
get out a piece of board six and three-sixteenths inches long, by four
and three-sixteenths inches wide; three-sixteenths inch thick for the
top of box; another, same size, for bottom. For the top boxes, that is,
the boxes that are to be placed over the brood section, with a sharp
bit make four one-inch holes in one of the pieces, for the passage of
the bees from the hive to the top boxes; next get out four pieces,
five inches long, five-eighths square, for corner-posts to the boxes.
Rebate two sides of each post about one-fourth inch square, to receive
the glass sides and ends, which are held in place by small tin points.
Get glass for the boxes 5 × 5½ inches square for the sides, and 3½ × 5
inches square for the ends. Nail the bottom and top to the ends of the
posts, having the corner of the post come out even with the corners of
top and bottom. A small (half-inch) finishing brad will hold the posts
in place. While nailing, hold the box perfectly square.
[Footnote 4: These boxes are shown in engravings under head of
Construction of Controllable Hive, Chapter XVIII, which, with the
description here given, cannot fail to be understood.]
For the side boxes, omit the holes in bottom, and leave out the glass
from one end, and in place of the glass put in a piece of wood five
inches long, two inches wide, three-eighths inch thick; place this
piece in the center at the end, leaving an open space next to each
corner post at that end for the passage of the bees from the hive to
the boxes.
These boxes are just wide enough for two combs running the longest
way of the box. Before putting in the glass, if you have any pieces
of white, clean comb, it will be a great advantage to stick two small
pieces of this comb in each box, where you wish the comb built. Place
the pieces in the top of the box two inches apart. Melt the edge of the
comb and apply in place where you want it, while hot; hold it in place
till it cools, and it will remain.
The bees will commence work much sooner in boxes with the comb than
they would without, even if the pieces of comb are not more than an
inch square.
These boxes, when well filled with honey, will each weigh about four
and one-half pounds. Honey in the boxes is very attractive, and is
sought for in the market by customers who have purchased in this form.
Honey put up in these nice glass boxes shows its superior quality at a
glance, and customers prefer to purchase in such boxes, with no tare
deducted for weight of box, to purchasing in the ordinary wood box with
the weight of the box deducted.
In taking these boxes from the hive, when filled with honey, in warm
weather, I recommend the following method: Take the boxes off early
in the morning, and carry them to some out-building, and put them in
a clean, tight box or barrel; place the boxes in such a manner that
the openings in the boxes will be free for the passage of the bees
from them. Spread over the box or barrel, a thin piece of cloth. The
bees will leave the boxes, and collect on the under side of the cloth,
which must be turned every few minutes, until all are out, except a few
drones and very young Lees; these can be taken out with a pencil. To
facilitate the removal of the bees from the boxes, if any are obstinate
about leaving, remove the glass in the sides of the boxes, _if the
cover is not fastened to it_. The greater part of the bees from these
boxes will return to their hives; excepting a very few young ones which
had never before been away from the hive; these will be lost. Thirty
boxes like the ones here recommended fit each controllable hive--ten on
each side, and ten on top over the brood section.[5]
[Footnote 5: When the box frames or partitions are taken out in the
honey season, the bees will often, if the stock is strong, spread out
over the bottom, so that in putting the frame in, a large number will
get crushed. To prevent this, get out two pieces of wood, each about
one and one-half inches wide, and one-fourth inch thick, one eighteen
inches long, the other twenty-two inches long; one edge of the long
piece bevel to a thin edge, about the shape of a carpenter's chisel.
Nail the long piece in the center to the end of the short piece at
right angles with it, with the beveled edge down, so the beveled edge
will be level with the end of the short piece; also bevel the lower end
of the short piece. When the bees are spread over the bottom of the
box section, with this instrument push them gently back to the brood
section. To do this, thrust the instrument down into the box section
with the beveled edge down; taking hold of the end of the short piece,
or handle, work the bees gently back to the brood section, and when
close up to the combs of the hive, let it remain to keep the bees from
spreading over the bottom till you get the box frame down in its place,
then remove it, and push the box frame up close to the brood section,
so the ends of the boxes will be as near the brood combs, as the inside
board of the partition was when the combs were built. If this is not
done, and a large space is left, the bees will either lengthen the
cells in the outer comb of the brood section, or build a new comb,
between the ends of the boxes, and the outer comb of the brood section.
In either case, we would find it very troublesome when we remove the
boxes, and wish to put in the partition for wintering. Be sure to put
the large box frame up close to the combs of the brood section, that
is, leave barely space enough for the bees to pass between the ends of
the boxes, and the outer comb of the brood section.]
When boxes are to be taken off, use tobacco smoke freely, to quiet the
anger of the bees. Puff smoke in at the entrance of the hive, before
you touch it, then start the _top_ boxes from their fastening, giving
the bees a puff or two of smoke at every crevice about the boxes at the
top and sides.
Cake of Honey in Boxes in Warm Weather.
Considerable care is necessary for the preservation of honey in boxes
removed from the hives in warm weather. As soon as the bees are all out
of the boxes, seal up all openings to the boxes, and set them away (in
the same position they occupied in the hive, so the honey will not leak
from the cells) in a _dry, dark, cool room_. We must now guard against
the moth.
As in warm weather the instincts of the fly is directed to the dead
carcase, so is the moth directed to honey-comb left without bees in
the summer season, and by a similar process is each destroyed. When
the bees have been off about ten days, or perhaps a little less if the
weather is very warm, examine closely for the first appearance of the
moth worms on the surface of the combs in the boxes. Their presence may
be known by small, thread-like webs or cocoons on the surface of the
comb, growing larger as the moth worm enlarges in growth. If no remedy
is applied, these worms will completely destroy the beauty of the honey
in the boxes in a very few days. Watch the boxes closely, and on the
_first_ appearance of the least sign of worms in the boxes, fumigate
with burning sulphur, thus: open the passages in the boxes; have ready
a tight, clean box; saturate some _very dry_ pine shavings with melted
sulphur. After placing your boxes of honey in the box, set a saucer or
plate in the box at the bottom, away from the honey boxes, so they will
not take fire. Do not use too many shavings; if you do, it will injure
the honey comb in the boxes, by giving it a green color, and imparting
to it a disagreeable taste; a half-dozen shavings each four inches long
is enough. Place them in the dish and ignite them, and cover closely,
so no fumes can escape; let them remain for a _few minutes_, (not more
than five, less is often sufficient; it depends something on the amount
of sulphur adhering to the shavings, as well as the size of box, number
of boxes to be fumigated, etc.) With a little practice you will manage
correctly and successfully. As soon as the boxes are fumigated, seal up
_every opening carefully_, and set away as before directed, in a _dry,
dark, cool room_. Watch the boxes for a few days, to be sure the worms
are all killed. If you find they are not, give them another dose of the
sulphur. After the worms are all killed, and every opening to the box
sealed up, wrap each box separately in paper, and they will be safe
through the summer.
How the eggs of the moth get into the boxes, has always puzzled
bee-keepers. It is hardly possible for the moth miller to pass through
a hive crowded with bees, to deposit her eggs in the crowded boxes. How
they get there must be guess-work--that they are there, is well known
to many bee keepers. I feel very confident that the eggs are deposited
there after the boxes are taken from the hive, and while we are getting
the bees out of the boxes.