CHAPTER XXV.

RETURN TO AXIM AND DEPARTURE FOR EUROPE.

I awoke on Saturday, April 9, in bad condition, and during the afternoon

had my third attack of fever, the effect of the dam and its miasma.

Wanting change of air, and looking forward to Effuenta, I set off in my

hammock and found my friends. The tertian lasted me till Monday, Sunday

being an 'off-day;' and, as the Tuesday was wet and uncomfortable, I

delayed departure till Wednesday morning. My 'Warburg' had unfortunately

leaked out: the paper cover of the phial was perfect, but of the contents

only a little sediment remained. Treatment, therefore, was confined to

sulphate of quinine and a strychnine and arsenic pill; arseniate of

quinine would have been far better, but the excellent preparation is too

economical for the home-pharmist, and has failed to secure the favour of

the Coast-doctors. One of my friends has made himself almost fever-proof

by the liberal use of arsenic; but I can hardly recommend it, as the

result must be corrected by an equally liberal use of Allan's anti-fat.

Burton, who has studied its use amongst the Styrian arsenic-eaters, denies

that this is the common effect: he found that it makes the mountaineer

preserve his condition, wind and complexion, arms him against ague, and

adds generally to his health. He is still doubtful, however, whether it

shortens or prolongs life.

On Wednesday, April 12, I left Effuenta after morning tea. My hospitable

host had nearly seen the last of his stores, to which he had made me so

cordially welcome; and there were no signs of fresh supplies, although

they had long been due. This is hardly fair treatment for the hard-working

employé: let the Company look to it. With a certain tightening of the

heart I made over my canine friend, Nero, to Dr. Roulston. He had lost all

those bad habits which neglected education had engrafted upon the heat of

youth. He now began to show more fondness for sport than for

sheep-worrying; and he retrieved one bird, carrying it with the utmost

delicacy of mouth.

I set out on foot for Vinegar Hill, and found that the steep eastern

ascent from the Tákwá ridge had been provided with a series of cut steps

by Mr. Commissioner: in these lands, as elsewhere, new brooms sweep clean;

but they are very easily worn out. This place has been for years the

'black beast' of travellers, especially in rainy weather, when the rapid

incline becomes so slippery that even the most sure-footed slither and

slide.

After crossing the Abonsá Hill I took to my hammock and was carried

through rain, and a very devilry of weather, into the Abonsá village. The

whole path was shockingly bad and muddy. Once more I became a lodger of

Mr. Crocker's; his house, being as usual far the best, gave us good

shelter for the night.

Next morning (7.30) we set out down the Abonsá stream in a small canoe

belonging to Mr. MacLennan. The natives made the usual difficulties; the

craft (which was quite sound) could not float, and amongst other things

she had no paddles: for this, however, I had provided by making my men cut

them last evening. Almost immediately after leaving this head of

navigation, barred above by a reef and a fall, we saw that eternal

mangrove. Presently the Aunábé creek broke the line of the right bank. Our

course was as usual exceedingly tortuous, turning to every quadrant of the

compass; and, during the last fortnight, the water-level had risen four

feet. The formation of the trough is that of the Ancobra, and the bed

bristles with rocks. In a distance of seven miles and a half by course

there were four small breaks, and one serious rapid about a hundred yards

long, where the decline exceeded five feet. Here the men had to get

overboard and to ease the canoe down the swirling waters, which dashed

heavily on the rocks. The snags were even thicker than on the upper

Ancobra, and were far more dangerous than on the St. John's. In places the

mangrove fallen from the banks had taken root in the river-bed. In fact,

unless some exertion be soon made, even the present insufficient channel

will be blocked up.

At the Abonsá _embouchure_ Mr. Wyatt's map, copied from M. Dahse, shows an

island backed by a ridge running nearly east-west. I found no river-holm,

and only a small broadening of the Ancobra to about double its usual

breadth. The banks at the sharp angle of junction are, however, low; and,

perhaps, my predecessor saw them when flooded. The Mankuma Hill, on the

right bank, belonging to the Franco-English Company, is somewhat taller

than its neighbours: as usual in this silted-up archipelago, it trends

from the north-east to the south-west.

I had already shot the Ancobra River when paddling up, and was not over

lucky when coming down. The big kingfisher did not put in an appearance,

and the sun-birds equally failed me: the smallest item of my collection

measures two and a quarter inches, and is robed in blue, crimson, and

sulphur. I was fortunate enough to bring home four specimens of a rare

spur-plover (_Lobivanellus albiceps_): they are now in Mr. Sharp's

department of the British Museum. I killed a few little snakes and one

large green tree-snake; two crocodiles, both lost in the river, and an

iguana, which found its way into the spirit-cask. A tzetze-fly (_Glossina

morsitans_) was captured in Effuenta House, curiously deserting its usual

habit of jungle-life in preference to a home on clear ground: its

dagger-like proboscis, in the grooved sheath with a ganglion of muscles at

the base, assimilated it to the dreaded and ferocious cattle-scourge which

extends from Zanzibar to the Tanganyika Lake and from Kilwa (Quiloa) to

the Transvaal. My kind friend and hospitable host Dr. (now Sir) John Kirk,

who did the geography and natural history for the lamentable Zambeze

expedition, met it close to the Victoria Falls. Burton also sent home a

specimen from the Gold Coast east of Accra.

Mr. MacLennan gave me sundry beetles, but insisted on retaining one which

is the largest I ever saw. The hunting-dog must scour the bush in packs,

for the voice is exactly that of hounds. The laugh of the hyæna and the

scream of the buzzard are commonly heard. The track of a 'bush-cow' once

crossed my path: the halves of the spoor were some five inches long by

three wide, and the hoofs knuckled backwards so as to show false hoofs of

almost equal size. I was unable to procure for Dr. Günther a specimen of

the 'bush-dog,' as the Kruboys call it: last year I was bringing home a

live one in the s.s. _Nubia_; but one day the fellow in charge reported

that it was dead and had been thrown overboard. I hold it to be a tailless

lemur, the _galago_ of the East Coast. The French name is _orson_, the

popular idea being that it is an ursine. The Fanti peoples, whose

'folk-lore' is extensive, and who have some tale about every bird, beast,

and fish, thus account for the loud cries which we heard at night in every

'bush.' King Leo, having lost his mother, commanded by proclamation all

his subjects to attend her funeral, and none failed save Orson. One

evening his Feline Majesty, when going his rounds, found the delinquent

upon the ground, and roughly demanded the reason why. Orson, shuffling

towards the nearest tree, pleaded in all humility, 'O King, is thy beloved

parent really deceased? I never heard of it. I am so sorry; I would never

have failed to show the respect due to the royal house.' When he had

climbed the foot of the tree his tone began to alter. 'But, Sire, if thy

Majesty hath lost a mother, I see no cause compelling me to attend her

funeral.' And when quite safe the change was notable. 'Bother the old

woman! very glad she is dead, and may her grave be defiled!' These people

know the stuff of which courtiers are made.

My collection of specimens from the mines and the river-beds filled a

dozen cases. The butterflies, of which we collected a large number, were

all spoilt by the moth for want of camphor. 'Insect-powder' had been our

only preservative. I had also a thirty-gallon cask of plants preserved in

spirits, two boxes well stuffed, a large case of orchids, and a raceme of

the bamboo-palm (_Raphia vinifera_), whose use has still to be found. The

animals, including insects in tubes, filled nearly two kegs and three

bottles, and I had two small cases of stuffed birds, the handiwork of Mr.

Dawson.

Of stone-implements I was lucky enough to secure thirty-six, and made over

four of them to my friend Professor Prestwich. They are found everywhere

throughout the country, but I saw no place of manufacture except those

noted near Axim. Mr. Sam, of Tumento, promised to forward many others to

England. The native women search for and find them not only near the beds

of streams, but also about the alluvial diggings. Nearly all are shaped

like the iron axe or adze of Urúa, in Central Africa, a long narrow blade

with rounded top and wedge-shaped edge. This tool is either used in the

hand like a chisel, or inserted into a conical hole burnt through a

tree-branch, and the shape of the aperture makes every blow tighten the

hold. The people mount it in two ways, either as an axe in line with, or

as an adze at a right angle to, the helve.

At Akankon I obtained from Mr. Amondsen a stone-implement of novel shape,

not seen by me elsewhere. A bit of the usual close-grained trap had been

cut into a parallelopiped seven and a half inches long with a flat head

one inch and a half in diameter and a bevel-edge of two inches and

one-third along the slope. This part had been chipped ready for grinding,

and the article was evidently unfinished; one side still wanted polishing,

and the part opposite the bevel showed signs of tapering, as if a point

instead of an edge had been intended. At Axim I split off by gads and

wedges a large slice of the grooved rocks described by Burton; it came

home with me, and is now lodged in the British Museum.

The rest of my story is told in a few words. I canoed safely down the

Ancobra River, and reached Axim on April 14. This return was made sad and

solitary by the absence of my canine friend, Nero.

A week soon passed away at the port of the Gold-region. Mr. Grant

presently returned from his excursion to the west. He showed me fine

specimens of gold collected at Newtown, the English frontier-settlement

immediately east of French Assini. I had also warned him to look out for,

and he succeeded in finding, beds of bitumen permeated with petroleum:

this material will prove valuable for fuel and for asphalting, if not for

sale. My time was wholly taken up with papering and repacking my

collection, which had now assumed formidable proportions, and time fled

the faster as the days were occupied in also fighting an impertinent

attack of ague and fever.

On April 24 the B. and A. s.s. _Loanda_ (Captain Brown) anchored in the

roads. Mr. Grant accompanied me on board, and showed himself useful and

energetic as usual. At Cape Palmas we shipped the Honourable Doctor and

Professor Blyden. He pointed out to me certain hillocks on the coast about

Grand Bassá, where he said gold had lately been found. The lay of the land

and the strike and shape of the eminences reminded me strongly of those I

had left behind me. The 'Secretary of the Interior,' who had been

compelled to leave his college, assured me that if wiser counsels prevail

Liberia will abandon her old Japanese policy of exclusion, and will open

her ports to European capital and enterprise. At Sierra Leone I called

upon Governor Havelock, who was recovering from the accident of a

dislocated shoulder. Both he and the 'Governess' were in the best of

health. At Madeira, on May 12, my companion Burton joined us, and we had a

week of dull passage to Liverpool. As we left on Friday and carried a

reverend gentleman on board, the cranky old craft was sorely tossed about

for two successive days, and we were delayed off the Liverpool bar,

arriving on the 20th instead of the 18th of May, 1882.

CONCLUSION.

The journey and the voyage ended, as such things should do, with a dinner

of welcome at the Adelphi, given to us by our hospitable friend Mr. James

Irvine. And here we had the first opportunity of delivering the message

which we had brought home from the Golden Land.

APPENDIX I

§1. THE ASHANTI SCARE.

That fears of an Ashanti attack upon the mines of the Gold Coast

Protectorate are rather fanciful than factual we may learn from the

details of the Blue Book 'Gold Coast, 1881.' The 'threatened Ashanti

invasion,' popularly termed the 'Ashanti scare,' did abundant good by

showing up the weakness of that once powerful despotism, and the

superiority in numbers and in equipment of the coastlanders over the

inlanders. It is true that there are tribes, like the Awunahs of the

Volta, and villages, like Béin in Apollonia, which still sympathise with

our old enemy. But only the grossest political mismanagement, like that

which in 1876 abandoned our ally, the King of Juabin, to the tender

mercies of his Ashanti foeman, aided by the unwisest economy, which

starves everything to death save the treasure-chest, will ever bring about

a general movement against us.

On December 1, 1880, died, to the general regret of native and stranger,

Mr. Ussher, Governor and Commander-in-Chief of the Gold Coast; a veteran

in the tropics and an ex-commissariat officer, whose political service

dated from 1861. In British India a change of rulers is always supposed to

offer a favourable opportunity for 'doing something,' often in the shape

of a revolt or a campaign. The same proved to be the case in West Africa,

where the Ashanti is officially described as 'crafty, persistent,

mendacious, and treacherous.'

It may easily be imagined that after the English victories at Amoaful and

Ordusu in 1873-74 the African despotism sighed for _la revanche_. The

Treaty of Fománá, concluded (February 13), after the capture (February 4)

and the firing (February 6) of Kumasi, between Sir Garnet Wolseley and the

representative of the King, Kofi Kalkali, or Kerrikerri, subsequently

dethroned, stripped her of her principal dependencies--lopped off, in

fact, her four limbs. These were the ever-hostile province of Denkira,

auriferous Akim, Adansi, and lastly Assin, now part of our Protectorate.

The measure only renewed the tripartite treaty of April 27, 1831, when

King Kwáko Dúa, in consideration of free access to the seaboard, and in

friendship with the unfortunate and ill-treated Governor (George) Maclean,

'renounced all right or title to any tribute, or homage, from the Kings of

Denkira, Assin, and others formerly his subjects.' But _nulla fronti

fides_ is the rule of the hideous little negro despotism, which, in 1853,

again invaded the coveted lands on its southern frontier, Assin.

The treaty of 1874, moreover, compelled Ashanti formally to renounce all

pretensions to sovereignty over Elmina and the tribes formerly in

connection with the Dutch Government. It vetoed her raids and forays upon

neighbouring peoples; like Dahome she had her annual slave-hunts and the

captives were sold for gold-dust to the inner tribes. The young officers

who replaced the veterans of the war would naturally desire, in Kafir

parlance, to 'wash their spears.' Nor are they satisfied with the defeats

sustained by their sires. 'I believe,' wrote Winwood Reade, 'that Sir

Garnet Wolseley attained the main object of the expedition, namely, the

securing of the Protectorate from periodical invasion. Yet still I wish

that the success had been more definite and complete.' The wish is echoed

by most people on the coast; and the natives still say, 'White man he go

up Kumasi, he whip black boy, and then he run away.'

It is regretable that the Commander-in-Chief, if he could not occupy

Kumasi himself, did not leave Sir John H. Glover in charge, and especially

that he did not destroy the Bantama (royal place of human sacrifice),

[Footnote: Sir Garnet Wolseley's admirable conduct of the Egyptian

campaign, where he showed all the qualities which make up the sum of

'generalship,' have wiped out the memory of his failures in Ashanti and

Kafir-land. Better still, he has proved that the British soldier can

still fight, a fact upon which the disgraceful Zulu campaign had cast

considerable doubt. But the public ignores a truth known to every

professional. Under an incompetent or unlucky commander all but the best

men will run: the worst will allow themselves to be led or driven to

victory by one they trust. Compare the Egyptian troops under old Ibrahim

Pasta, and under Arabi, the Fe-lah-Pasha.] or at least remove from it the

skull of Sir Charles Macarthy. [Footnote: Captain Brackenbury throws doubt

upon the skull being preserved in the Bantama; but his book is mainly

apologetic, and we may ask, If the cherished relic be not there, where is

it? The native legend runs thus: 'And they took him (_i.e._ Macarthy) and

cut off his head, and brought it to their camp and removed the brains; but

the skull, which was left, they filled it with gold, and they roasted the

whole body and they carried it to Ashanti.... And the head, which they

bore to Ashanti, has become their "fetish," which they worship till this

day.'--Native account of Macarthy's death, Zimmermann's _Grammar of the

Accra or Ga Language_, Stuttgart, 1858.] And yet we now learn that the

campaign did good work. Captain Lonsdale, who has spent some time in

Kumasi, reports that the Caboceers have built huts instead of repairing

their 'palaces.' Moreover, he declares that the story of sacrificing girls

to mix their blood with house-swish is a pure fabrication; the Ashantis

would no longer dare to do anything so offensive to the conqueror.

Last on the list of solid Ashanti grievances is her exclusion from the

seaboard. Unknown to history before A.D. 1700, the Despotism first invaded

the Coast in 1807, when King Osai Tutu Kwámina pretended a wish to recover

the fugitive chiefs Chibbu and Aputai. These attacks succeeded one another

at intervals of ten years, say the Fantis. The main object was to secure a

port on the coast, where the inlanders could deal directly with the white

man, and could thus escape the unconscionable pillaging, often fifty per

cent. and more, of the Fanti middleman. This feeling is not, indeed,

unknown to Europe: witness Montenegro. I see no reason why the people

should not have an 'Ashantimile' at the Volta mouth; and I shall presently

return to this subject.

Hardly was Governor Ussher buried than troubles began. Mr. Edmund Watt, a

young District-commissioner at Cape Coast Castle, officially reported to

Lieutenant-Governor W. B. Griffith, subsequently Administrator of Lagos,

that Opoku, 'King' of Bekwa (Becquah), had used language tending to a

breach of the peace. This commander-in-Chief of the Ashanti forces in

1873-74 had publicly sworn in his sober senses at Kumasi, and in presence

of the new king, Kwámina Osai Mensah, that he would perforce reduce

Adansi, the hill-country held to be the southern boundary of Ashanti-land.

Such a campaign would have been an infraction of treaty, or at least a

breach of faith: although the province is not under the protection of the

Colonial Government, King Kofi Kalkali [Footnote: This ruler succeeded his

father, King Kwáko Dúa, in 1868; and his compulsory abdication is

considered to have been an ill-advised measure.] had promised to respect

its independence and to leave it unmolested.

Lieutenant-Governor Griffith lost no time in forwarding the report to the

Colonial Office, adding sundry disquieting rumours which supported his

suspicions. Missionaries and merchants had observed that certain

'messengers,' or envoys, sent from Kumasi to acknowledge the presents of

the late Governor Ussher, were lingering without apparent reason about

Cape Coast Castle, after being formally dismissed. Moreover, their

residing in the house of 'Prince Ansah,' a personage not famous for plain

dealing, boded no good.

A new complication presently arose. Prince Owusu, nephew of the King and

heir to the doughty Gyáman kingdom, fled from Kumasi to the Protectorate,

and reached Elmina on January 18. He appeared in great fear, and declared

that a son of the chief Amankwá Kwomá and three 'court-criers,' or

official heralds, were coming down to the coast on a solemn mission to

demand his extradition. They carried, he said, not the peaceful cane with

the gold or silver head, but the mysterious 'Gold Axe.' Opinions at once

differed as to the import and object of this absurd implement. According

to some its mission portended war, and it had preceded the campaigns of

1863 and 1873. Others declared that it signified a serious 'palaver,'

being a strong hint that the King would cut through and down every

obstacle. Strange to say, the first Ashanti messengers were never called

upon to explain before the public what the 'Gold Axe' really did mean.

The Colonial Office acted with spirit and wholesome vigour. It was urged

on by Mr. Griffith, whose energetic reports certainly saved the

Protectorate grave troubles. He has thereby incurred much blame, ridicule,

and obloquy; nor has he received due credit from those under whom he

served.

The newly-appointed Governor and Commander-in-Chief of the Gold Coast, Sir

Samuel Rowe, at once ordered out to relieve Mr. Griffith, left England in

mid-February. He was accompanied by a staff of seven officers temporarily

employed. Reinforcements were hurried from Sierra Leone and the West

Indies. The Admiralty was applied to for the reunion of cruisers upon the

Gold Coast waters. Estimates of native allies were drawn up, showing that

20,000 half-armed men could be brought into the field against the 30,000

of Ashanti. The loyal and powerful chief Kwámina Blay, of Atábo, in

Amrehía, or Western Apollonia, offered 6,000 muskets, and an additional

1,000 hands if the Government would supply arms and ammunition.

On January 19 the ambassador with the 'Gold Axe' presented himself at

Elmina. He was accompanied by Saibi Enkwiá, who had signed the treaty at

Fománá, a village in Assin, between Kumasi and the Bosom Prah River. The

envoy formally demanded possession of Prince Owusu and of one Amangkrá, an

Ashanti trader who had aided him to escape. Saibi Enkwiá added by way of

threat, 'The King said, if the Governor would not order the return of

Owusu to Kumasi, he would attack the Assins.' He further explained that

these Assins were the people who always caused 'palavers' between the

Ashantis and the Protectorate, to which they belonged.

Naturally the ignominious demand was refused. The messengers left for

Kumasi, and Lieutenant-Governor Griffith telegraphed from Madeira to

England (January 25), 'War imminent with Ashanti.' It was considered

suspicious that all the inlanders were disappearing from the coast. This

was afterwards explained: they were flocking north for the 'native

Christmas,' the Yam-custom, or great festival of the year.

Our preparations were pushed forward the more energetically as time

appeared to be tight. The Ashantis were buying up all the weapons they

could find when the sale of arms, ammunition, and salt was prohibited.

Detachments were despatched to the Mansu and Prahsu stations; the latter

is upon the Bosom (Abosom, or Sacred) Prah, the frontier between Ashanti

and the Protectorate, to cross which is to 'pass the Rubicon.' Here, as at

other main fords and ferries, defensive works were laid out. Arrangements

were made for holding nine out of the eighteen forts, abandoning the rest;

and Accra was strengthened as the central place. The 'companies,' or

'native levies,' who, with a suspicious unanimity, applied for guns and

gunpowder, lead and flints, were urged to the 'duty of defence.' Five

cruisers, under Commander (now Captain, R.N.) J. W. Brackenbury, were

stationed off the three chief castles, Elmina, Cape Coast, and Anamabo,

and the naval contingent was drilled daily on shore. The Haussa

constabulary was reinforced. The First West India Regiment sent down men

from Sierra Leone, and the Second 500 rank and file from Barbadoes. In

fact, such ardour was shown that the Ashantis, scared out of their

intentions of scaring, began to fear another English invasion. 'The white

men intend to take Kumasi again!' they said; and perhaps the reflection

that 48,000 ounces of gold were still due to us suggested a motive. They

had been making ready for offence; now they prepared for defence.

About mid-February the 'situation' notably changed. Messieurs Buck and

Huppenbauer, two German missionaries who were making a 'preaching-tour,'

reported from Kumasi that King Mensah was afraid of war, and that his

kingdom was 'on the point to go asunder.' The despot, with African

wiliness, at once threw the blame of threatening Assin upon his confidant,

Saibi Enkwiá. No one believed that an Ashantiman would thus expose himself

to certain death; but the explanation served for an excuse. The King also

asserted that his 'Gold Axe' meant simply nothing. Thereupon the officials

of the Protectorate began looking forward to an ample apology, and to a

fine of gold-dust for the disturbing of their quiet days. In fact, they

foresaw 'peace with honour.'

Governor Sir Samuel Rowe, with his usual good fortune, landed at Elmina on

March 9, exactly the right time. The attempt to intimidate had ignobly

failed, and had recoiled upon the attempter. King Mensah, in order to

remove all suspicions of intending a campaign, had resolved to send

coastwards the most important and ceremonious mission of the age. It was

to conclude a kind of _Paix des Dames_. Queen Kokofu had threatened that

in case of hostilities she would go over to the British. The Queen-mother,

a power in the country, which has often kept the peace for it and plunged

it into war, threatened to take her own life--and here such threats are

always followed by action. In fact, the peace-party had utterly overthrown

the war-party.

The mission left Kumasi in May. It was headed by Prince Bwáki, step-father

to the two royal brothers, Kofi Kalkali and Kwábina Osai Mensah, and the

number as well as the high rank of the retinue made it remarkable. At

Prahsu, where the envoys were met by Governor Rowe, a preliminary

conversation took place. Despite the usual African and barbarian fencing

and foiling, the Englishman carried the day; the message must be delivered

with all publicity and proper ceremony in the old 'palaver-hall' of

historic Elmina Castle.

A conclusive interview took place on May 30. Prince Bwáki explained that

'mistakes had been made, but that the mistakes had not been alone those of

his king and son-in-law.' He declared that the messenger, Saibi Enkwiá,

had exceeded his powers in threatening Assin. The King, he said, had sworn

by 'God and earth,' that is, by the 'spirits' above and by the ghosts

below, that he had sent no such message. At the same time the King

confessed being partly to blame, as the message had been delivered by his

own servant. In the matter of the 'Gold Axe,' however, the mistake was the

mistake of the Lieutenant-Governor (Griffith).

The Prince further explained that Ashanti has two symbols of war, a

peculiar sword and a certain cap; whereas the 'Gold Axe' being 'fetish'

and endowed with some magical and mysterious power, is never sent on a

hostile errand. He offered, in the King's name, as further evidence of

friendly feeling, to surrender the 'so-called Golden Axe,' which important

symbol of Ashanti power had been forwarded from head-quarters with an

especial mission. It was delivered on the express understanding that it

should be despatched to England for the acceptance of H.B. Majesty, and

not be kept upon the coast, exposed to the ribaldry of the hostile Fantis.

The weapon, said Prince Bwáki, is so old that no one knows its origin, and

it is held so precious that in processions it precedes the Great Royal

Stool, or throne, of Ashanti. The leopard-skin, bound with gold upon the

handle, symbolises courage in the field; the gold is wealth, and the iron

is strength.

Finally, the unhappy 'Gold Axe,' after being publicly paraded upon a

velvet cushion through the streets of Elmina, was entrusted to Captain

Knapp Barrow, who returned to England by the next steamer. It was duly

presented, and found its way to the South Kensington Museum, after faring

very badly at the hands of the 'society journals' and other members of the

fourth estate. [Footnote: For instance: 'The gold axe of King Koffee of

Ashantee, lately sent, for an unexplained reason, to the Queen, is

described as a triangular blade of iron, apparently out from a piece of

boiler-plate, roughly stuck into a clumsy handle of African oak. The

handle is covered with leopard-skin, part of which, immediately above the

blade, is deeply soiled, apparently with blood. Bands of thin gold,

enriched with uncouth chevrons and lunettes _en repoussé_, are placed

round the handle. The sheath of the blade, which is of tiger (leopard)

skin, accompanies this hideous implement, and attached to it is the sole

element which has anything like artistic merit. This is a nondescript

object of beaten gold, in shape something like a large cockle-shell with

curved horns extending from the hinge, and not inelegantly decorated with

lines and punctures, _en repoussé_ and open work of quasi-scrolls.']

Needless to say it was an utter impostor. The real Golden Axe is great

'fetish,' and never leaves either Kumasi or, indeed, the presence of the

King.

The ceremony of delivering the message in the palaver-hall was

satisfactory. Prince Bwáki grasped the knees of Governor Rowe, the

official sign of kneeling. He expressed the devotion of his liege lord to

the Majesty of England; and finally he offered to pay down at once two

thousand ounces of gold in proof of Ashantian sincerity. All these

transactions were duly recorded; the promises in the form of a bond.

The play was now played out; cruisers and troops dispersed, and golden

Peace reigned once more supreme. Prince Owusu, a drunken, dissolute

Eupatrid, who had caused the flutter, when ordered on board a man-of-war

for transportation to a place of safety, relieved the Gold Coast from

further trouble. He was found hanging in the 'bush' behind Elmina Castle.

Most men supposed it to be a case of suicide; a few of course surmised

that he had been kidnapped and murdered by orders from Kumasi.

Since that time to the present day our Protectorate has been free from

'scare.' The affair, as it happened, did abundant good by banishing all

fear for the safety of the Wásá (Wassaw) diggings. During the worst times

not a single English employé of the mines had left his post to take refuge

in the Axim fort. This does them honour, as some of the establishments lay

within handy distance of the ferocious black barbarians.

The native chiefs, especially 'King Blay,' proved themselves able and

willing to aid us in whatever difficulties might occur. The kingdom of

Gyáman further showed that it can hold its own against shorn Ashanti, or

rather that it is becoming the more powerful of the two. The utter failure

of the scare is an earnest that, under normal circumstances, while King

Mensah, a middle-aged man, occupies the 'stool,' we shall hear no more of

'threatened Ashanti invasions.'

But the true way to pacify the despotism is to allow Ashanti to 'make a

beach'--in other words, to establish a port. This measure I have supported

for the last score of years, but to very little purpose. The lines of

objection are two. The first is in the mercantile. As all the world knows,

commercial interests are sure to be supported against almost any other in

a reformed House of Commons; and, in the long run, they gain the day. The

Coast-tribes under our protection are mere brokers and go-betweens, backed

up and supported by the wholesale merchant, because he prefers _quieta non

movere_, and he fears lest the change be from good to bad. I, on the other

hand, contend that both our commerce and customs would gain, in quantity

as well as in quality, by direct dealings with the peoples of the

interior. The second, or sentimental, line belongs to certain newspapers;

and even _their_ intelligence can hardly believe the _ad captandum_

farrago which they indite. The favourite 'bunkum' is about 'baring the

Christian negro's throat to the Ashanti knife.' But the Fantis and other

Coast-tribes were originally as murderous and bloodthirsty in their

battles and religious rites as their northern neighbours: if there be any

improvement it is wholly due to the presence and the pressure, physical as

well as moral, of Europeans--of Christians, if you like. Even Whydah is

not blood-stained like Agbóme, because it has been occupied by a few

slavers, white and brown. Why, then, should the Ashantis be refused the

opportunity and the means of amendment? Ten years' experience in Africa

teaches me that they would be as easily reformed as the maritime peoples;

and it is evident that the sentimentalist, if he added honesty and common

sense to the higher quality, should be the first to advocate the trial.

But I would not allow the Ashantis to hold a harbour anywhere near Elmina.

They should have their 'mile' and beach east of the Volta River, where

they would soon effect a lodgment, despite all the opposition of their

sanguinary friends and our ferocious enemies the Awunah and the Krepi

(Crepee) savages.

I will end this paper with a short notice of the kingdom of Gyáman,

generally written Gaman and too often pronounced 'Gammon.' Its strength

and vigour are clearly increasing; it is one of the richest of

gold-fields, and it lies directly upon the route to the interior. Of late

years it has almost faded from the map, but it is described at full length

in the pages of Barbot (1700) and Bosman (1727), of Bowdich (1818), and of

Dupuis (1824). They assign to it for limits Mandenga-land to the north and

west; to the south, Aowin and Bassam, and the Tando or eastern fork of the

Assini to the east. This Tando, which some moderns have represented as an

independent stream, divides it from Ashanti-land, lying to the south and

the south-east. Dupuis places the old capital, Bontuko, whence the Gyámans

were formerly called 'Bontukos,' eight stages north-west of Kumasi; and

the new capital, Huraboh, five marches beyond Bontuko. The country, level

and grassy, begins the region north of the great forest-zone which

subtends the maritime mangrove swamps. It breeds horses and can command

Moslem allies, equestrian races feared by the Ashantis.

The Gyámans, according to their tradition, migrated, or rather were

driven, southwards from their northern homes. This was also, as I have

said, the case with the Fantis and Ashantis; the latter occupied their

present habitat about 1640, and at once became the foes of all their

neighbours. King Osai Tutu, 'the Great,' first of Ashanti despot-kings

(1719), made Gyáman tributary. The conquest was completed by his

brother-successor, Osai Apoko (1731), who fined Abo, the neighbour-king,

in large sums of gold and fixed an annual subsidy. Gyáman, however,

rebelled against Osai Kwájo (Cudjoe), the fourth of the dynasty (1752),

and twice defeated him with prodigious slaughter. The Ashanti invader

brought to his aid Moslem cavalry, and succeeded in again subjugating the

insurgents. The conquered took no action against the fifth king, but they

struck for independence under Osai Apoko II (1797). Aided by Moslem and

other allies, they crossed the Tando and fought so sturdily that the enemy

'liberally bestowed upon them the titles of warlike and courageous.' The

Ashantis at length compelled the Moslems of their country to join them,

and ended by inflicting a crushing defeat upon the invaders.

Osai Tutu Kwámina, on coming to the throne (1800), engaged in the campaign

against Gyáman called, for distinction, the 'first Bontuko war.' He

demanded from King Adinkara his ancestral and royal stool, which was

thickly studded and embossed with precious metal. The craven yielded it

and purchased peace. His brave sister presently replaced it by a seat of

solid gold: this the Ashanti again requisitioned, together with a large

gold ornament in the shape of an elephant, said to have been dug from some

ruins. The Amazon replied, with some detail and in the 'spade' language,

that she and her brother should exchange sexes, and that she would fight

_à l'outrance_; whereupon the Ashanti, with many compliments about her

bravery, gave her twelve months to prepare for a campaign.

In 1818 Dupuis found Ashanti engaged in the 'second Bontuko war' with

Adinkara, who had again thrown off his allegiance. But small-pox was

raging in the capital, and this campaign ended (1819-20) with the defeat

and death of the womanly monarch, with a massacre of 10,000 prisoners, and

with the sale of 20,000 captives. Thus Gyáman was again annexed to

Ashanti-land as a province, instead of enjoying the rank of a tributary

kingdom; and the conqueror's dominions extended from Cape Lahou (W. long.

4º 36') through Gyáman to the Volta River (E. long. 0º 42' 18"), a

coast-line of some 318 direct geographical miles.

Gyáman, however, seems to have had a passion for liberty. She fought again

and again to recover what she had lost in 1820; and, on more occasions

than one, she was successful in battle. During the 'Ashanti scare' the

sturdy kingdom was preparing for serious hostilities; and a little war of

six or seven months had already been waged between the neighbours. The

late Prince Owusu, before mentioned, deposed before the authorities of our

Protectorate as follows: 'At Kumasi I was ordered to eat the skull of the

late King of Gyáman, which was kept there as a trophy from the conquest of

Gyáman; but I did not do it.' He also asserted that, in 1879, a white man,

Nielson, and his interpreter, Huydecooper, had been sent by an intriguer

to Gyáman, bearing a pretended message from the British Government and the

Fanti chiefs, enjoining the King to conclude peace with the Ashantis, and

to restore their 3,700 captives. Neither of these men saw the ruler of

Gyáman, and it is believed that Nielson, having begun a quarrel by firing

upon the people, was killed in the fray.

At this moment Gyáman is battling with her old enemies, and threatens to

be a dangerous rival, if not a conqueror. Here, then, we may raise a

strong barrier against future threats of Ashanti invasion, and make

security more secure. The political officers of the Protectorate will be

the best judges of the steps to be taken; and, if they are active and

prudent, we shall hear no more of the Kumasi bugbear.

* * * * *

§2. THE LABOUR-QUESTION IN WESTERN AFRICA.

In their present condition our African colonies are colonies only because

they are administered by the Colonial Office.

Most of these stations--for such they should be termed--were established,

for slaving purposes, by the Portuguese, and were conquered by the Dutch.

Thence they passed into the hands of England, who vigorously worked the

black _traite_ for the benefit of her West Indian possessions.

The 'colonies' in question, however, saw their occupation gone with negro

emancipation, and they became mere trading-ports and posts for collecting

ground-nuts, palm-oil, and gold-dust. Philanthropy and freedom expected

from them great things; but instead of progressing they have gradually and

surely declined. The public calls them 'pest-houses,' and the Government

pronounces them a 'bore.' Travellers propose to make them over to Liberia

or to any Power that will accept such white elephants.

Remains now the task of placing upon the path of progress these wretched

West African 'colonies,' and of making them a credit and a profit to

England, instead of a burden and an opprobrium.

Immigration, I find, is _le mot de l'énigme_.

Between 1860 and 1865 I studied the labour-question in West Africa, and my

short visit in 1882 has convinced me that it is becoming a vital matter

for our four unfortunate establishments, Bathurst, Sierra Leone, the Gold

Coast, and Lagos.

A score of years ago many agreed with me that there was only one solution

for our difficulties, a system of extensive coolie-importation. But in

those days of excited passions and divided interests, when the export

slave-trade and the _émigration libre_ were still rampant on either coast,

it was by no means easy to secure a fair hearing from the public. Not a

small nor an uninfluential section, the philanthropic and the missionary,

raised and maintained the cuckoo-cry, 'Africa for the Africans!'--worthy

of its successor, 'Ireland for the Irish!' Others believed in imported

labour, which has raised so many regions to the height of prosperity; but

they did not see how to import it. And the general _vis inertiæ_, peculiar

to hepatic tropical settlements, together with the unwillingness, or

rather the inability, to undertake anything not absolutely necessary, made

many of the colonists look upon the proposal rather as a weariness to the

flesh than a benefit. A chosen few steadily looked forward to it; but they

contented themselves with a theoretical prospect, and, perhaps wisely, did

not attempt action.

The condition of the Coast, however, has radically changed during the last

two decades. The export slave-trade has died the death, never to

'resurrect.' The immense benefits of immigration are known to all men,

theoretically and practically. India and China have thrown open their

labour-markets. And, finally, the difficulty of finding hands, for

agriculture especially, in Western Africa has now come to a crisis.

Here I must be allowed a few words of preliminary explanation. In this

matter, the reverse of Europe, Africa, whose social system is built upon

slavery, holds field-work, and indeed all manual labour, degrading to the

free man. The idea of a 'bold peasantry, its country's pride,' is utterly

alien to Nigritia. The husband hunts, fights, and trades--that is to say,

peddles--he leaves sowing and reaping to his wives and his chattels. Even

a slave will rather buy him a slave than buy his own liberty. 'I am free

enough,' he says; 'all I want is a fellow to serve me.' The natives of the

Dark Continent are perfectly prepared to acknowledge that work is a curse;

and, so far scripturally, they deem

Labour the symbol of man's punishment.

No Spaniard of the old school would despise more than a negro those

new-fangled notions glorifying work now familiar to stirring and bustling

North Europe. Nor will these people exert themselves until, like the

Barbadians, they must either sweat or starve. Example may do something to

stir them, but the mere preaching of industry is hopeless. I repeat: their

_beau idéal_ of life is to do nothing for six days in the week and to rest

on the seventh. They are quite prepared to keep, after their fashion, 365

sabbaths per annum.

In the depths of Central Africa, where a European shows a white face for

the first time, the wildest tribes hold markets once or twice a week;

these meetings on the hillside or the lake-bank are crowded, and the din

and excitement are extreme. Armed men, women, and children may be seen

dragging sheep and goats, or sitting under a mat-shade through the

livelong days before their baskets and bits of native home-spun, the whole

stock in trade consisting perhaps of a few peppers, a heap of palm-nuts,

or strips of manioc, like pipe-clay. This savage scene is reflected in the

comparatively civilised stations all down the West African coast, where

the inexperienced and ardent philanthrope is apt to suppose that the lazy,

feckless habits are not nature-implanted but contracted by contact with a

more advanced stage of society.

Again, in many parts of Africa the richest lands, and those most

favourably situated, are either uninhabited or thinly peopled, the result

of intestine wars or of the export slave-trade. Mr. Administrator

Goulsbury, of Bathurst, during his adventurous march from the Gambia to

the Sierra Leone River, crossed league after league of luxuriant ground

and found it all desert. He says, [Footnote: Blue Book of 1882, quoted in

Chap. X.] 'I think the fact has never been sufficiently recognised that

Africa, and especially the west coast of the continent, is but very

sparsely populated.... It is not only very limited, but is, I believe, if

not stationary, actually decreasing in numbers.... I commend this fact to

the consideration of those who indulge in day-dreams as to the almost

unlimited increase of commerce which they fondly imagine is to be the

result and reward of opening up the interior of the country.'

In regions richer than the Upper Gambia the disappearance of man is ever

followed by a springing of bush and forest so portentous that a few hands

are helpless and hopeless. Such is the case with the great wooded belt

north of the Gold Coast, where even the second-growth becomes impenetrable

without the matchet, and where the swamps and muds, bred and fed by

torrential rains, bar the transit of travellers. The Whydah and Gaboon

countries are notable specimens of once populous regions now all but

deserted.

Nothing more surprising, to men who visit Africa for the first time, than

the over-wealth of labour in Madeira and its penury on the Western Coast.

At Bathurst they find ships loading or unloading by the work of the Golah

women, whose lazy husbands live upon the hardly-earned wage. They see the

mail-steamers landing ton after ton of Chinese rice shipped _viâ_ England.

The whole country with its humid surface and its reeking, damp-hot climate

is a natural rice-bed. The little grain produced by it is far better than

the imported, but there are no hands to work the ground. It is the same

with salt, which is cheaper when brought from England: no man has the

energy to lay out a salina; and, if he did, its outlay, under 'Free

Trade,' would be greater than its income.

Steaming along the picturesque face of the Sierra Leone peninsula, the

stranger remarks with surprise that its most fertile ridges and slopes

hardly show a field, much less a farm, and that agriculture is confined to

raising a little garden-stuff for the town-market. The peasant, the hand,

is at a discount. The Sierra Leonite is a peddler-born who aspires to be a

trader, a merchant; or he looks to a learned profession, especially the

law. The term 'gentleman-farmer' has no meaning for him. Of late years a

forcing process has been tried, and a few plantations have been laid out,

chiefly for the purpose, it would appear, of boasting and of vaunting the

new-grown industry at home. Mr. Henry M. Stanley remarks [Footnote:

_Coomassie and Magdala_, p. 8], 'In almost every street in Sierra Leone I

heard the voice of praise and local prayer from the numerous aspirants to

clerkships and civil service employ; but I am compelled to deny that I

ever heard the sound of mallet and chisel, of mortar, pestle, and trowel,

the ringing sound of hammer on anvil, or roar of forge, which, to my

practical mind, would have had a far sweeter sound. There is virgin land

in the neighbourhood of Sierra Leone yet untilled; there are buildings in

the town yet unfinished; there are roads for commerce yet to be made; the

trade of the African interior yet waits to be admitted into the capacious

harbour of Sierra Leone for the enrichment of the fond nursing-mother of

races who sits dreamily teaching her children how to cackle instead of how

to work.'

The same apathy to agriculture prevails in Liberia. For the last forty

years large plantations have been laid out on the noble St. Paul River

between Cape Mount and Mount Mesurado. The coffee-shrub, like the

copal-tree, belts Africa from east to west--from Harar, where I saw it,

through Karagué, where it grows wild, the bean not being larger than a

pin's head, to Manywema, in the Congo valley, and to the West Coast,

especially about the Rio Nunez, north of Sierra Leone. It is of the finest

quality, second only to the Mocha; but what hope is there of its

development? The Váy tribe, which holds the land, is useless; the rare new

comers from America will work, but the older settlers will not; and there

is hardly money enough to pay Krumen.

On the Gold Coast there is no exceptional scarcity of population: under

normal circumstances, the labour-market is sufficiently supplied, but a

strain soon exhausts it. Sir Garnet Wolseley found his greatest difficulty

in the want of workmen: he was obliged to apply for 500 British navvies;

and, at one time, he thought of converting the first and second West India

Regiments, with Wood's and Russell's men, into carriers. On the other

hand, the conduct of the women was admirable; as the conqueror said in the

Mansion House, he hardly wondered at the King of Dahome keeping up a corps

of 'Amazons.' I shall presently return to the gold-mines.

At Lagos M. Colonna, Consular Agent for France, informs me that by his

firm alone 600 hands are wanted for field-service, and that the number

might rise to a thousand. He would also be glad to hire artisans,

blacksmiths and carpenters, masons and market-gardeners. The Yorubas from

the upper country, who will engage for three years, demand from a franc to

a shilling per diem, rations not given. Labour ranges from sixteen to

twenty-four francs per mensem; and coolies could not command more than

twenty-five francs, including 'subsistence.' Here Kruboys are much used.

M. Colonna pays his first-class per mensem $5 (each =5 francs 20

centimes), his second class $4, and his third $3. Returning to the Gold

Coast, I find two classes of working men, the country-people and the

Kruboys: the Sierra Leonites are too few to be taken into consideration.

At present, when there are only five working mines, none of which are

properly manned, labour is plentiful and cheap. It will be otherwise when

the number increases, as it will soon do, to fifty and a hundred. Upwards

of seventy concessions have already been granted, and I know one house

which has, or soon will have, half a dozen ready for market. Then natives

and Kruboys will strike for increased wages till even diamond-mines would

not pay. The Gold Coast contains rich placers in abundance: if they fail

it will be for want of hands, or because the cost of labour will swallow

up profits.

The country-people, Fantis, Accra-men, Apollonians of Béin, and others,

will work, and are well acquainted with gold-working. But they work in

their own way; and, save under exceptional conditions, they are incapable

of regular and continuous labour. It gives one the heart-ache to see their

dawdling, idling, shuffling, shiftless style of spoiling time. They are

now taking to tribute, piece and contract work. The French mines supply

them with tools and powder, and, by way of pay and provisions, allow them

to keep two-thirds of the produce. It is evident that such an arrangement

will be highly profitable to the hands who will 'pick the eyes out of the

mine,' and who will secrete all the richest stuff, leaving the poorest to

their employers. No amount of European surveillance will suffice to

prevent free gold in stone being stolen. Hence the question will arise

whether, despite the price of transport, reduction in England will not pay

better.

The Kruboys in the north and the Kabinda boys in the south have been

described as the Irishmen of West Africa: they certainly do the most work;

and trading-ships would find it almost impossible to trade without them.

During the last twenty years they have not improved in efficiency even on

board men-of-war. In 1861-65 the gangs with their headmen willingly

engaged for three years. Now they enlist only for a year; they carefully

keep tallies, and after the tenth monthly cut they begin to apply for

leave. Thus the men's services are lost just as they are becoming

valuable. It is the same with the Accra-men. When the mines learn the

simple lesson _l'union fait la force_ they will combine not to engage

Krumen for less than two years.

There are two great centres at which Kruboys are hired. The first is

Sierra Leone, where they demand from all employers what the

mail-steamers pay--the headmen half-a-crown and the hands a shilling a

day besides rations. The second is the Kru coast. In 1850 the 'boys'

received 5_s._ per mensem in goods, which reduced it to 3_s._ They had

also daily rice-rations, 'Sunday beef,' and, at times, a dash of

tobacco, a cap, a blanket or a waist-cloth. In 1860 the hire rose to

9_s._ in kind, or 4_s._ 6_d._ in coin. About this time cruisers began to

pay them the monthly wages of ordinary seamen, 1_l._ 10s., with white

man's rations or compensation-money, amounting to another 12_l._ a year.

In 1882 headmen engage for the Oil Rivers at 1_l._, and 'boys' for

10_s._ to 12_s._ For the gold-mines of Wásá they have learned to demand

1_s._ 3_d._ per diem, and at the cheapest 1_l._ a month, the headmen

receiving double.

The Kru-market does not supply more than 4,000 hands, and yet it is

already becoming 'tight.' In a few years demand will be excessive.

[Footnote: The usual estimate of the Kru-hands employed out of their own

country is as follows:--

For the Oil Rivers:

150 each for Brass and Bonny, New Calabar and Camarones;

150-200 for the Niger, and

150 for Fernando Po and the Portuguese Islands 1200-1500

At Lagos 1000

On board the 25 Bristol ships, at 20 each 500

For nine to ten ships of war 200

For ten mail-steamers 200

In the mines: (May, 1882)

Izrah 7, Akankon 14, Effuenta 120,

the two French companies 200, the Gold Coast 100,

and Crockerville 20 461

----

Total 3861; say 4000]

The following notes were given to me by the managers of mines, whom I

consulted upon the subject.

Mr. Crocker prefers Fantis, Elminas, and others; and he can hire as many

as he wants; at Cape Coast Castle alone there are some eighty hands now

unemployed. He pays 36_s._, without rations, per month of four weeks. He

has about a score of Kruboys, picked up 'on the beach;' these are

fellows who have lost all their money, and who dare not go home

penniless. Their headman receives per mens. $3.50, and in exceptional

cases $4. The better class of 'boys' get from $2.50 to $3; and lesser

sums are given to the 'small boys,' whose principal work is stealing,

skulking.

Mr. Creswick has a high opinion of Krumen working in the mines, and has

found sundry of them to develop into excellent mechanics. The men want

only good management. Under six Europeans, himself included, he employs a

hundred hands, and from eight to ten mechanics. The first headman draws

37_s_. 6_d_., the second 22_s_., full-grown labourers 18_s_., and 'small

boys' from 4_s_. to 6_s_. and 9_s_.

Mechanics' wages range between 1_l_. 5_s_. and 4_l_. All have rations or

'subsistence,' which here means 3_d_. a day.

Mr. MacLennan has a few Fanti miners, whom he pays at the rate of 6_d_.

per half-day. His full muster of Krumen is 120; the headmen receive 27_s_.

6_d_., rising, after six months, to 35_s_. The first class of common boys

get 20_s_.; the second from 13_s_. 6_d_. to 15_s_.; and the third, mostly

'small boys,' between 5_s_. and 10_s_. His carpenters and blacksmiths, who

are Gold Coasters and Sierra Leonites, draw from 2_l_. 10_s_. to 3_l_. The

rations are, as usual, 1-1/2 lb. of rice per day, with 1 lb. of 'Sunday

beef,' whose brine is converted into salt.

Mr. A. Bowden, manager of the Tákwá and Abosu Mines, also employs a

'mixed multitude.' His Sierra Leone carpenters and blacksmiths draw

3_l._ 10_s._ to 4_l._ 10_s._ per month without rations, and his native

mechanics 3_l._ to 3_l._ 10_s._ The Fanti labourers are paid, as usual,

a shilling per diem and find themselves. The Kruboys, besides being

lodged and fed (1-1/2 lb. rice per day and 1 lb. beef or fish per week),

draw in money as follows: headman, 2_l_.; second ditto, 1_l_. 7s. to

1_l_. 12_s._; miners, 18_s._ to 20_s._ and labourers 9_s._ to 16_s._

This state of the labour-market is, I have said, purely provisional. It

will not outlast the time when the present concessions are in full

exploitation; and this condition of things I hope soon to see. We can then

draw from the neighbouring countries, from Yoruba to the north-east, and

perhaps, but this is doubtful, from the Baasás [Footnote: A manly and

powerful race, who call themselves Americans and will have nothing to do

with the English.] and the Drewins to the west. But we must come, sooner

or later, and the sooner the better, to a regular coolie-immigration, East

African, Indian, and Chinese.

The benefit of such an influx must not be measured merely by the

additional work of a few thousand hands. It will at once create jealousy,

competition, rivalry. It will teach by example--the only way of teaching

Africans--that work is not ignoble, but that it is ignoble to earn a

shilling and to live idle on three-pence a day till the pence are

exhausted. Its advantages will presently be felt along the whole western

coast, and men will wonder why it was not thought of before. The French,

as they are wont to do in these days, have set us an example. Already in

early 1882 the papers announced that a first cargo of 178

Chinese--probably from Cochin-China--had been landed at Saint-Louis de

Senegal for the proposed Senegambian railway.

The details of such an immigration and the measures which it will require

do not belong to this place. Suffice it to say that we can draw freely

upon the labour-banks of Macáo, Bombay, and Zanzibar. The intelligent,

thrifty, and industrious Chinese will learn mining here, as they have

learnt it elsewhere, with the utmost readiness. The 'East Indian' will be

well adapted for lighter work of the garden and the mines. Finally, the

sturdy Wásawahili of the East African coast will do, as carriers and

labourers, three times the work of Pantis and Apollonians.

I need hardly say that Captain Cameron and I would like nothing better

than to organise a movement of this kind; we would willingly do more good

to the West African coast than the whole tribe of its so-called

benefactors.

§3. GOLD-DIGGING IN NORTH-WESTERN AFRICA.

_a. Sketch of its Origin_.

The mineral wealth of Central Africa has still to be studied; at present

we are almost wholly ignorant of it. We know, however, that the outlying

portions of the Continent contain three distinct and grand centres of

mining-industry. The first worked is the north-eastern corner--in fact,

the Nile-valley and its adjacencies, where Fayzoghlú still supplies the

noble metal. The second, also dating from immense antiquity, is the whole

West African coast from Morocco to the Guinea Gulf, both included. The

third and last, the south-eastern gold-fields, have been discovered by the

Portuguese in comparatively modern days.

In this paper I propose to treat only of the western field. Its

exploitation began early enough to be noticed by Herodotus, the oldest of

Greek prose-writers. He tells us (lib. iv. 196, &c.) that the

Carthaginians received gold from a black people, whose caravans crossed

the Sahará, or Great Desert, and that they traded for it with the wild

tribes of the West Coast. His words are as follows:--'There is a land in

Libya, and a nation beyond the Pillars of Hercules [the Straits of

'Gib.'], which they [the Carthaginians] are wont to visit, where they no

sooner arrive but forthwith they break cargo; and, having disposed their

wares in an orderly way along the beach, leave them, and, returning aboard

their ships, raise a great smoke.

'The natives, when they see the smoke, come down to the shore, and, laying

out to view so much gold as they think the worth of the wares, withdraw

themselves afar. The Carthaginians upon this come ashore and look. If they

deem the gold sufficient they take it and wend their way; but if it does

not seem to them sufficient, they go aboard once more and wait patiently.

Then the others draw near and add to their gold till the Carthaginians are

content. Neither party deals unfairly by the other; for they themselves

never touch the gold till it comes up to the worth of their goods, nor do

the natives ever carry off the goods till the gold is taken away.'

Plato ('Critias' [Footnote: The celebrated Dialogue which treats of

Altantis and describes cocoas as the 'fruits having a hard rind, affording

drinks and meats and ointments.']) may refer to this dumb trade when he

tells us, 'Never was prince more wealthy than Atlas [eldest son of

Poseidon by Cleito]. His land was fertile, healthy, beautiful, marvellous;

it was terminated by a range of gold-yielding mountains.' Lyon, speaking

of the western Sudán, uses almost the very words of Herodotus. 'An

invisible nation, according to our informant, inhabit near this place, and

are said to trade by night. Those who come to traffic for their gold lay

their merchandise in heaps and retire. In the morning they find a certain

quantity of gold-dust placed against every heap, which if they think

sufficient they leave the goods; if not, they let both remain till more of

the precious ore is added' (p. 149). [Footnote: Shaw gives a similar

account (_Travels_, p. 302).]

The classical trade in gold and slaves was diligently prosecuted by the

Arabs or Saracens after Mohammed's day. Their caravans traversed the great

wilderness which lies behind the fertile Mediterranean shore, and founded

negroid empires in the western Sudán, or Blackland. Gháná, whence,

perhaps, the Portuguese Guiné and our Guinea of 'the dreadful mortal

name,' became the great gold-mart of the day. Famous in history is its

throne, a worked nugget of solid gold, weighing 30 lbs. It has been

rivalled in modern times by the 'stool' of Bontuko (Gyáman), and by the

'Hundredweight of gold' produced by New South Wales. Most of the wealth

came from a district to the south-west, Wangara, Ungura, or Unguru,

bordering on the Niger, and supposed to correspond with modern

Mandenga-land. In the lowlands, after the annual floods, the natives dug

and washed the diluvial deposits for the precious metal exactly as is now

done upon the Gold Coast; and they burrowed into the highlands which

surround in crescent-form the head-waters of the great River Joliba.

Presently Tinbukhtu succeeded, according to Leo Africanus (1500), Gháná as

the converging point of the trade, and made the name for wealth which

endures even to the present day. Its princes and nobles lavishly employed

the precious ore in ornaments, some weighing 1,300 ounces.

In due time the Moroccan Arabs were succeeded by their doughty rivals, the

Portuguese of the heroic ages of D. D. João II. and Manoel. I here pass

over the disputed claim of the French, who declare that they imported the

metal from 'Elmina' as early as 1382. [Footnote: See Chapter II.] The

first gold was discovered on his second voyage by Gonçalo Baldeza (1442)

at the Rio de Ouro, the classical Lixus and the modern El-Kus, famed for

the defeat and death of Dom Sebastiam. [Footnote: I have noticed it in

_Camoens, his Life and his Lusiads_, vol ii. chapter iii. The

identification with the Rio de Onro is that of Bowdich (p. 505). Another

Rio de Ouro was visited in 1860 by Captain George Peacock (before alluded

to), 'having a French frigate under his orders.' The 'River of Gold' of

course would become a favourite and a banal name.]

In 1470 João de Santarem and Pero d'Escobar, knights of the King, sailed

past Cape Falmas, discovered the islands of São Thomé and Annobom (January

1, 1471); and, on their return homewards, found a trade in gold-dust at

the village of Sama (Chamah) and on the site which we miscall 'Elmina.'

[Footnote: This form of the word, a masculine article with a feminine

noun, cannot exist in any of the neo-Latin languages. In Italian and

Spanish it would be La Mina, in Portuguese A Mina. The native name is Dina

or Edina.] During the same year Fernan' Gomez, a worthy of Lisbon, bought

a five years' monopoly of the gold-trade from the King, paying 44_l._ 9_s._

par annum, and binding himself to explore, every year, 300 miles down

coast from Sierra Leone. One of these expeditions landed at 'Elmina' and

discovered Cape Catherine in south latitude 1º 50' and west longitude

(Gr.) 9º 2'. The rich mines opened at Little Kommenda, or Aprobi, led to

the building of the Fort São Jorje da Mina, by Diego d'Azembuja, sent out

(A.D. 1481) to superintend the construction. But about 1622 the falling in

of some unbraced and untimbered shafts and the deaths of many miners

induced Gweffa, the King, to 'put gold in Fetish,' making it an accursed

thing; and it has not been worked since that time.

Thus Portugal secured to herself the treasures which made her the

wealthiest of European kingdoms. But when she became a province of Spain,

under D. Philip II., her Eastern conquests were systematically neglected

in favour of the Castilian colonies that studded the New World. The weak

Lusitanian garrisons were massacred on the Gold Coast, as in other parts

of Africa; and the Hollanders, the 'Water-beggars,' who had conquered

their independence from Spain, proceeded to absorb the richest possessions

of their quondam rivals. 'Elmina,' the capital, fell into Dutch hands

(1637), and till 1868 Holland retained her forts and factories on the Gold

Coast.

In their turn the English and the French, who had heard of the fabulous

treasures of the Joliba valley and the Tinbukhtu mart, began to claim

their share. As early as 1551 Captain Thomas Wyndham touched at the Gold

Coast and brought home 150 lbs. of the precious dust. The first English

company for exploring the Gambia River sent out (1618) their agent,

Richard Thompson. This brave and unfortunate explorer was rancorously

opposed by the Portuguese and eventually murdered by his own men. He was

followed (1620) by Richard Jobson, to whom we owe the first account of the

Gambia River. He landed at various points, armed with mercury, aqua regia

(nitric acid), large crucibles, and a 'dowsing' or divining rod;

[Footnote: A form of this old and almost universal magical instrument,

worked by electricity, has, I am told, been lately invented and patented

in the United States.] washed the sands and examined the rocks even beyond

the Falls of Barraconda. After having often been deceived, as has occurred

to many prospectors since his day, he determined that gold never occurs in

low fertile wooded lands, but in naked and barren hills, which embed it in

their reddish ferruginous soil. Hence it was long and erroneously

determined that bare rocks in the neighbourhood of shallow alluvia

characterise rich placers, and that the wealthiest mining-regions are poor

and stunted in vegetation. California and Australia, the Gold Coast and

South Africa, are instances of the contrary. Wásá, however, confirms the

old opinion that the strata traversed by lodes determine the predominating

metal; as quartz produces gold; hard blue slate, lead; limestone,

green-stone and porphyry, copper; and granite, tin. [Footnote: Page 17, _A

Treatise on Metalliferous Minerals and Mining_, by D. C. Davies. London,

Crosby and Co., 1881. The volume is handy and useful to explorers.]

After twenty days' labour Jobson succeeded in extracting 12 lbs. from a

single site. He declares that at length he 'arrived at the mouth of the

mine itself, and found gold in such abundance as surprised him with joy

and admiration.' Unfortunately he leaves us no notice of its position; it

is probably lost, like many of the old Brazilian diggings. The Gambia

River still exports small quantities of dust supposed to have been washed

in the Ghauts, or sea-subtending ridges, of the interior. Most of it,

however, finds its way to the wealthier and more prosperous French colony.

Whilst the English chose the Gambia the French preferred Senegal, where

they founded (1626) 'St. Louis,' called after Louis XIV. The Sieur Brue,

Director-General of the Senegal Company, made a second journey of

discovery in 1698, and reached with great difficulty the gold-mines of

desert and dreary Bambúk. There he visited the principal districts, and

secured specimens of what he calls the _ghingan_, or golden earth. He

proposed a third incursion, but the absolute apathy of his countrymen

proved an insuperable obstacle.

M. Golberry describes Bambúk in gloomy and sombre colours. Its gold is

distributed amongst low ranges of peeled and sterile hills. Probably this

results from fires and disforesting. It occurs in the shape of spangles,

grains, and _pépites_ (nuggets), whose size increases with the depth of

the digging. In the Matakon mine the dust adhered to fragments of iron,

emery, and lapis lazuli, from which it was easily detached and washed. The

less valuable Semayla placer produced dust in a hard reddish loam, mixed

with still more refractory materials; it was crushed in mortars with rude

wooden dollies or with grain-pestles. The pits, six feet in diameter,

reached a depth of from ten to twelve yards, where they were stopped by a

bed of hard reddish marle; this the Frenchman held to be the hanging wall

of a much richer lode. The people used ladders, but they neglected to

collar or brace the mouth, and the untimbered pit-sides often fell in;

hence fatal accidents, attributed to the 'earth-spirits.' They held gold

to be a capricious elf, and when a rich vein suddenly ran barren they

cried out, 'There! he is off!'

In later days Mungo Park drew attention by his famous first journey

(1795-97) to the highlands of the Mandingoes (Mandenga-land), and revived

interest in the provinces of Shronda, Konkodu, Dindiko, Bambúk, and

Bambarra. Here the natives collect dust by laborious washings of detrital

sand. His fatal second expedition (1805) produced an unfinished journal,

which, however, gives the amplest and most interesting notices concerning

the gold-production of the region he traversed. My space compels me to

refer readers to the original. [Footnote: Murray's edition of 1816, vol.

i, p. 40, and vol. ii. p. 751.]

The traveller Caillié (1827), after crossing the Niger _en route_ to

Tinbukhtu, passed south of the Bouré province, in the valley of the Great

River; and here he reports an abundance of gold. As in the districts

visited by Park, it is all alluvial and washed out of the soil. The dust,

together with native cloth, wax, honey, cotton and cattle, finds its way

to the coast, where it is bartered for beads, amber and coral, calicoes

and firearms. The gold-mines of Bouré were first visited and described by

Winwood Reade. [Footnote: _Coomassie_, &c., p. 126.]

The peninsula of Sierra Leone is not yet proved to be auriferous. Here

stray Moslems, mostly Mandengas, occasionally bring down the Melakori

River ring-gold and dust from the interior. The colonists of Liberia

assert that at times they have come upon a pocket which produced fifty

dollars; the country-people also occasionally offer gold for sale. From

the Bassam coast middle-men travel far inland and buy the metal from the

bushmen. Near Grand Bassam free gold in quartz-reefs near the shore has

been reported.

We now reach the Gold Coast proper, which amply deserves its glorious

golden name. I have shown that the whole seaboard of West Africa, between

it and Morocco, produces more or less gold; here, however, the precious

metal comes down to the very shore and is washed upon the sands. Its

length from the Assini boundary-line to the Volta [Footnote: Chapter XIV.

I would not assert that gold is not found east of the Volta River. M.

Colonna, of Lagos, told me that he had good reason to suspect its presence

on the seaboard of Dahome, and promised me to make further enquiries.] has

been laid down at 220 direct geographical miles by a depth of about 100.

The area of the Protectorate, which has been a British colony since 1874,

is assumed to be 16,620 instead of 24,500 square miles, and the population

may exceed half a million. Its surface is divided into twelve petty

kingdoms; and its strand is studded with forts and ruins of forts, a total

of twenty-five, or one to every eight miles. This small section of West

Africa poured a flood of gold into Europe; and, until the mineral

discoveries of California and Australia, it continued to be the principal

source of supply to the civilised world.

The older writers give us ample details about gold-digging and trading two

centuries ago. Bosnian (Letter VI.) shows that the people prospected for

the illustrious metal in three forms of ground. The first was in, or

between, particular hills, where they sank pits; the second was about the

rivers and waterfalls; and the third was on the seashore near the mouths

of rivulets after violent night-rains. He ends his letter with these

sensible words: 'I would refer to any intelligent metallist whether a vast

deal of ore must not of necessity be lost here, from which a great deal of

gold might be separated, from want of skill in the metallic art; and not

only so, but I firmly believe that vast quantities of pure gold are left

behind; for the negroes only ignorantly dig at random, without the least

knowledge of the veins of the mine. [Footnote: The origin of these mineral

veins is still disputed, science being as yet too young for the task of

solving the mystery. Probably, as Mr. Davies remarks, 'the mode of the

origin and means of the deposition are not one only but many,' and we have

the Huttonian (igneous) and Wernerian (aqueous) theories, the sublimation

of Necker, the electricity of Mr. R. W. Fox, the infiltration and

gravitation of fluid metals towards cracks, vughs (cavities), and

shrinkages, and the law of replacement. 'If a steel plate be removed atom

by atom,' says Mr. R. Brough Smyth (_Gold Fields of Victoria_, Melbourne,

1869), 'and each atom be replaced by a corresponding atom of silver--a

fact established by direct experiment--it will be readily seen that a

mineral vein may be formed in the same way.'] And I doubt not that if the

land belonged to Europeans they would soon find it to produce much richer

treasures than the negroes obtain from it. But it is not probable that we

shall ever possess that liberty here, wherefore we must be content with

being so far masters of it as we are at present, which, if well and

prudently managed, would turn to a very great account.'

Times, however, are changed. England is now mistress of the field, and it

will be her fault if she leaves it untilled.

The good old Hollander first mentions amongst his six gold-sites the

kingdom of Denkira; it then included the conquests of Wásá (Wassaw), of

Encasse, [Footnote: The Inkassa of D'Anville, 1729.] and of Juffer or

Quiforo. The gold of that region is good, but much alloyed for the trade

with 'fetish'-figures. These are composed sometimes of pure mountain-gold;

more often the ore is mixed with one-third, or even a half, of silver and

copper, and stuffed with half-weight of the black earth used for moulding.

The second was Acanny (D'Anville's Akanni), with gold so pure and fine

that 'Acanny sika' meant the best ley. Then came the kingdom of Akim,

which 'furnishes as large quantities of gold as any land that I know, and

that also the most valuable and pure of any that is carried away from the

coast.' It was easily distinguished by its deep colour. The fourth and

fifth were Ashanti and Ananse, a small tract between the ex-great

despotism and Denkira. The sixth and last was Awine, our Aowin, the region

to the east of the Tando, then and now included in the British

Protectorate. The Dutch 'traded here with a great deal of pleasure,' the

people 'being the civilest and fairest dealers of all the negroes.'

The Ashanti war of 1873-74 had the effect of opening to transit a large

area of workable ground. English officers traversed the interior in all

directions, and their reports throw vivid light upon the position, the

extent, and the value of the auriferous grounds which subtend the Gold

Coast and which supply it with the precious metal.

The gold-provinces best known to us are now three--Wásá, of which these

pages treat; Akim, the hill-land, an easy journey of a week north with

westing from Akra; and Gyáman, the rival of Ashanti.

Akim is divided into eastern and western. Mr. H. Ponsonby, when travelling

through both regions, found the natives getting quantities of gold by

digging holes eight to ten feet deep on either side of the forest-paths.

He saw as much as three ounces taken up in less than half an hour. Around

the capital of eastern Akim, Kyebi, or Chyebi, the land is also

honeycombed with man-holes, making night-travel dangerous to the stranger.

It requires a sharp eye to detect the deserted pits, two feet in diameter

and 'sunk straight, as if they had been bored with huge augurs.' I have

seen something of the kind in the water-meadows near Shoreham. The workman

descends by foot-holes, and works with a hoe four to six inches long by

two broad: when his calabash is filled it is drawn up by his companions.

The earthquakes of April and July 1862 [Footnote: I happened to be at Akra

during the convulsion of July 10. The commandant, Major (now Colonel) de

Buvignes, and I set out for a stroll along the sands to the west. The

morning was close and cloudy: what little breeze there was came from the

south-west, under a leaden sky and over a leaden sea. At 8.10 A.M., as we

were returning from the rocks about three-quarters of a mile off, there

was a sudden rambling like a distant thunder-clap; the sands seemed to

wave up and down as a shaken carpet, and we both staggered forwards.

Others described the movement as rising and falling like the waters of a

lagoon. I looked with apprehension at the sea; but the direction of the

shock was apparently from west-north-west; and the line was too oblique to

produce one of those awful earthquake-waves, seventy feet high, which have

swept tall ships over the roofs of cities. We ran as fast as we could to

the town, where everything was in the wildest confusion. The 'Big House'

and Mr. John Hansen's were mere ruins; the Court-house had come to pieces,

and the prison-cells yawned open. I distinctly saw that the rock-ledge

under Akra, between Fort James and Crèvecoeur, had been upraised: canoes

passed over what was now dry. A second shock at 8.20 A.M., and a third

about 10.45, completed the destruction, split every standing wall, and

shook down the three forts into ruinous heaps. Nor did the seismic

movements cease till July 15, when I made my escape.

To The Gold Coast for Gold: A Personal Narrative. Vol. II · 第 16 / 17 章