CHAPTER VII. LEATHERS.

Vellum--Calf--Pig skin--Sheep skin--Goat skin--Seal skin, etc.

Prepared skins of animals have been the most generally used of all

materials for covering bindings of manuscripts or printed books.

Leather is tanned skin, and the hair is generally removed. Bindings

that have the hair still left on the leather are usually of an

elementary kind and are intended to be carried about in pockets. They

are not common. Vellum (calf skin), and parchment (sheep skin), are

not tanned, but are prepared with lime and are white. Not uncommonly,

especially in Germany, other skins were so prepared. Pig skin, deer

skin, goat skin, horse skin, and donkey skin were all “vellumised,” and

are all very strong and take excellent impressions in blind.

It is likely enough that vellum was used for the first covering of

books, simply enclosing the sections, the ends of the bands drawn in,

without boards. Such bindings are excellent for thin books, and they

were successfully re-introduced in recent times by William Morris,

always used with ties, as otherwise the vellum crinkles up.

“Vellum” bindings made now, unless specially ordered, are only ordinary

bindings in boards covered with vellum. Vellum is strong, but has

some disadvantages. Although gold looks beautiful upon vellum it is

difficult to work, and title labels do not stick to it well. If kept

near the light it turns to something very like egg-shell and chips off.

This defect was known to librarians in past times, and they met it by

keeping their vellum books backs inwards, the forages outwards. Many

instances of this manner of keeping vellum books occur in the Bodleian

Library at Oxford, and they generally have their old pressmarks, and

sometimes titles, written across the top of the forage. Old vellum

was cut thick, and seldom ornamented, and if kept dry in the dark it

is an excellent material. The same peculiarities exist in the case of

parchment, which is, however, a very inferior skin, thinner, weaker,

and not so good looking. Parchment is frequently described, and used,

as vellum, and few purchasers know the difference; but the market value

of parchment is less than half that of vellum. Vellum is particularly

well suited for bindings kept in large towns, as dust does not stick

to it, and it is easily cleaned. In time it assumes a creamy colour

that is delightful. From the late sixteenth century until now, vellum

stained green has been commonly used in England.

White vellumised leather, probably deer skin, has always been much

liked in England from the time of Henry VIII., many of whose books

were bound in this material: among them a copy of Elyot’s “Image of

Governance,” printed in London in 1541, which is one of the first books

with gold tooling upon it done in this country. Several books were

bound in the same thick white leather for the other Tudor sovereigns,

as well as for some of their richer subjects, but in the seventeenth

century limp vellum once more asserted its sway and became very popular

in England for highly valued books. The brilliancy of the gilding upon

some of these bindings is quite wonderful; it is certainly doubtful

if any modern finishers could equal the technical beauty of the work.

Then in the eighteenth century, vellum, though still much esteemed,

only took its place as a covering for boards, and once more, in the

nineteenth century, Morris restored it to its proper use as a limp

binding.

In 1785, James Edwards of Halifax patented a way of rendering vellum

transparent, so that paintings underneath it showed through, and he

used it with much success. The process has been revived of late years

in England.

The Dutch binders have always liked vellum, but it is used with boards

and never limp. Dutch vellum bindings are usually coloured, not well

done, but at a distance they look decorative, and were certainly very

popular. They often have clasps and painted edges.

A few bindings have been made in England, France, and Holland, covered

with pierced vellum, showing coloured silk underneath. They are not

very satisfactory and soon get out of order.

After vellum comes calf, the outer skin of the same animal, tanned.

Calf is a good second, and I think altogether, up to about the end

of the eighteenth century, that it has been more used than any other

leather. The main difference between old calf and modern calf is that

the old leather was properly tanned with oak bark or sumach, and cut

thick, whereas modern calf used for binding is abominably tanned,

quickly and disastrously, and cut thin. There is no better leather than

old calf, and it was used universally; England, France, Germany, and

Italy all liked it; it was delightful to decorate, either in blind or

gilt, and it mellowed with age to a rich mahogany brown. Italian and

sixteenth century English binders stained their fillets black, and

several of these calf bindings, richly gilded, and with black fillets,

are quite splendid, in perfect taste.

The surface of calf is smooth, and it is very sensitive to all sorts of

stains.

Calf is seen at its best when it is used to take impressions from panel

stamps, but its beautiful surface and sensitiveness to stains of all

kinds has made it a favourite ground for all sorts of fancy markings,

most of which, however charming they may be at first, end by destroying

the leather.

Russia leather is calf prepared with willow bark and scented with

birch oil. It is a modern leather, and lasts badly, and is generally

diced,--that is to say, covered all over with diagonal rulings. It

was a favourite leather of Roger Payne’s. It is said that a book

bound in Russia leather will last better if much used, and no doubt

this is true, not only of Russia but of any other leather. As a rule

leather bindings in libraries are starved; they get dry, and readily

absorb animal oil from the human hand. The truth of this may be found

in the fact that numbers of dictionaries and books of reference were

preferentially bound in Russia leather some thirty or forty years ago,

and whereas unused books bound at the same time in the same way now

show rotting leather, the reference books which have been continually

used are quite sound and supple.

Cow hide is like a magnified calf leather, and shows a slightly pitted

surface. It is not often used, but is of much value for very large

books that are worth full binding, as one piece of hide could be cut

large enough, for instance, to full-bind the _Skibbereen Eagle_, one

of the largest Irish newspapers. It would take three or four of the

largest goat skins to do this, and it is always advisable to avoid

joins, wherever possible, in a binding. But there is one drawback to

the use of hide for binding: it is practically impossible to cut it

smooth; however skilfully it may be pared, when it gets on the book

it is always ridgy. This is, of course, not very important, but it

militates against the use of hide except when absolutely necessary. For

the rest, hide takes colour well, and it is a very handsome leather,

and when it is finished simply with very broad gold fillets it is very

ornamental.

Pig skin is perhaps the most familiar of all bookbinding leathers to

the outside world, because saddles are made of it. It is a thick, rich

leather, and, so to speak, full of life. It is not suitable for small

books, but very good for large ones, and has been used in England off

and on for a long time, but never very much. Charles Lewis executed

some fine examples of his larger bindings in pig skin, but I think he

never cared much for it.

Pig skin responds admirably to treatment with lime, the same method of

preparation as used for vellum; and this white “vellumised” pig skin

has always been the most favoured material for the covering of fine

German books of the fifteenth, sixteenth, and seventeenth centuries.

Many of these bindings are perfect in their way, covered all over with

delicate roll stamps showing marvellous definition and clearness on the

hard white surface.

Fine though all their impressions are, it cannot be denied that they

are difficult to see; the impressions are shallow, and indeed the

designs can often be more easily made out by help of a rubbing with

heelball on soft white paper than by examining the binding itself.

Pig skin can be recognised by its smooth hard surface, strongly pitted

with bristle holes. It is closely imitated in inferior leather, bristle

holes and all, and when such imitation is actually on a book it is very

difficult to detect, but if in skin form it can easily be recognised.

In real pig skin the bristle holes penetrate right through the leather,

and show quite as much at the back as they do in the front, whereas in

the imitation they show little, if at all, at the back. Also the back

of real pig skin is of very firm, close texture, but the imitation

shows a more or less woolly or loose grained back, as it is generally

made of sheep skin. French binders have never favoured pig skin

much--it is not dainty enough for them.

Sheep skin has always been a favourite leather for bookbinding, but it

is not a fine leather and has never been used for first-rate binding.

It has, however, been more worked up than anything else into imitations

of fine leathers.

The imitation of fine leather in inferior sheep skin has been for a

long time a very important industry, and it is one which is still with

us. All fine leathers show a particular and well known grain on their

surface, but the most largely imitated is that of goat skin or morocco.

In a well grained skin of morocco, the beautiful grain is strongly

marked, whether it be “pinhole” or “straight”--so strongly marked

indeed that a cast of it can well be made in plaster of paris. From

such a cast a metal die can be made, and when this die is strongly

pressed upon a prepared piece of sheep skin, which will take an

impression extremely well, the result is that a surface is produced

which is so exactly like a piece of morocco that even a leather expert

may be, and often is, taken in by it. In course of time, however, the

impression flattens out, and the fraud betrays itself.

When such a stamped sheep skin is new on a book, and finished with

gold, no one would for a moment suspect its genuineness, but if in skin

form, the back of the leather will at once betray it. Real morocco has

a hard close grain, but the back of the imitation will show a loose

soft texture. Other leathers are imitated in the same way: pig skin,

lizard skin, and others; and although there has been, and still is,

much of such imitation used in the matter of bookbindings, there is

still more of it used in the furniture trade.

But putting aside these base uses of sheep skin, it has a very fair

record to show on its own unaided merits. Many early Italian bindings,

good ones, were made in sheep skin; certainly it has not lasted well,

but no doubt when new it was pleasing enough. In England, many of the

early fifteenth century panel stamp bindings were made in sheep skin,

not quite satisfactory now, but also probably well enough when new.

It is impossible to say much in favour of modern roan, the trade name

for sheep skin, which has suffered badly at the hands of the tanner

and the dyer; also probably the binders have not been without fault,

as in order to get the leather flexible for joints and bands they have

acquired a pernicious habit of paring it too thin, and another, equally

hurtful, of unduly pulling and stretching it so that the fibres, or

what is left of them, get strained and broken.

Skiver is part of a split sheep skin, the surface of which is

altogether artificial. It is much used for cheap pamphlet bindings

and looks well for the moment, but is not so strong as good paper. It

is wonderful how cleverly the “paste grain” or artificial surface of

skiver is made; it deceives most people easily. The remaining part

of a split sheep skin is prepared quite differently and is made into

“chamois” leather. Although this is not used for actual bindings, it is

often enough made into linings for loose covers of fine books. It does

well for this purpose, but must be kept in a very dry place as it has a

certain affinity for damp.

The finest of all leathers for binding is goat skin, morocco as we

now call it, from the reputed land of its origin. “Levant morocco” is

still the name of the finest skins. Goats, however, have of course been

common enough all over the world for ages, and so we find very ancient

bindings in goat skin, quite possibly the most ancient, although I

rather incline to vellum in this connection.

Many of the English twelfth to fourteenth century blind tooled bindings

are in goat skin, tanned brown, most likely with oak bark, and from

that period until now it has always been used here, at some periods

more than others.

Goat skin always shows small hair dots in groups all over its surface;

it is not quite smooth like calf, and also it shows certain structural

striations. In early goat bindings both these marks show clearly, and

until the time of Roger Payne in the eighteenth century, the leather

was left in its natural state so far as surface marks went.

Italian bookbinders at an early date saw the beauty of natural sunk

lines on goat skin, and accentuated them by rubbing in gold leaf. On

such bindings the markings on the leather show as fine gold lines; it

is a pretty idea, and can often be found on sixteenth century bindings,

especially on those that were made for Tommaso Maioli.

French morocco bindings are frequently stained with colour,

particularly those which were made about the time of Henri II. in

the sixteenth century. The stain is usually put on the fillets or

arabesques surrounding a central oval, in which is often a painted

coat-of-arms. But as a rule such coloured bindings are in calf, which

takes stain more easily than morocco.

Goat leather has never been so much liked by German binders as calf or

pig skin. This is partly due to the fact that German bindings are as a

rule ornamented with blind tooling, and goat skin is never satisfactory

when treated in this way: its grain is against it; but for gold

tooling, which has been brought to its greatest perfection by Italian,

French and English binders, there is nothing that gives so fine a

result as goat leather.

Roger Payne saw and liked the natural grain of goat skin, or, as we

may now call it, morocco. But he found that in many cases he could

get a better impression from his very delicately cut stamps in Russia

leather. Here, however, he was restricted to one colour, and his

favourite colour, a neutral green, could only be procured in morocco.

So he ironed the morocco to flatten its natural hills and dales, and

produced something like what is now called “crushed” morocco. Payne’s

smooth morocco is, however, not quite our modern “crushed”; it is

smoother, because now we “grain” our leather strongly before crushing

it, whereas Payne ironed his without first increasing its natural

grain by artificial means. Morocco is often badly injured by the

ironing being done with irons that are too hot.

But Payne went a step farther. No doubt he experimented much with

morocco, and it is likely enough that before endeavouring to smoothen

out his skins he wetted them thoroughly. If he wetted a fine skin of

morocco overnight and left it alone, perhaps doubling it or rolling

it up, he would have noticed next morning that the natural grain had

become much intensified, due to a slight shrinkage of the leather,

and showed as a particularly effective breaking up of the surface.

Some such chance led him to make definite experiments with a view to

exaggerating the natural grain of morocco, and he very soon found out

that if a damped skin was well rolled in one direction it assumed

permanently what is now known as a “straight” grain. That is to say,

the surface of the leather is lined in the same sort of way as a

ploughed field is, but not quite so regularly. The ridges and furrows

all run in one direction. Several of Payne’s bindings are bound in

straight grain morocco, but judging from his own work, he never got any

farther with his graining.

At a later time, I think towards the middle of the nineteenth century,

it was found out that if the process of straight graining was carried

out a second time at right angles to the first operation, the little

straight furrows and ridges were broken up, and a surface was produced

that consisted of a series of minute hillocks, like a field that has

been harrowed, and this is known as a “pin-head” grain. Both these

grainings improve the strength of the leather, as it contracts after

the wetting and also the wear falls on the tops of the ridges or

hillocks before it reaches the body of the leather.

French binders have always preferred smooth or crushed morocco for

their bindings, as it is easier to gild upon. Morocco is sensitive to

damp, and if affected it quickly betrays it by giving out the strong

scent of goat which is normally quite absent.

Two new leathers have been recently put upon the market as rivals

of morocco: one of these is seal skin and the other the skin of the

sea-lion.

Seal skin is finished in the same way as morocco and looks very like

it, but it is, I think, not so good. It is softer, more full of oil and

has a peculiar, almost fishy, smell. The softness of seal leather makes

it unfit for binding books that are likely to have much hard wear, but

the oiliness is probably its worst fault, as books standing next to it

are apt to be stained. But it is undoubtedly a good-looking and useful

leather, and if it can be put upon the market at a less cost than

morocco it is sure to have a considerable vogue. Sea-lion skin is only

fit for use on big books; it is very strong and is curiously ridged in

large ridges. It has the same oiliness that seal has, but not in so

marked a degree.

There are, of course, several other leathers in which books have been

bound as curiosities, and these are generally noted in some way; a book

in the British Museum is lettered outside “Kangaroo,” and manuscript

notes are in others telling us in what strange materials they are

covered. Fish skin, known as shagreen, has sometimes been used for

bindings; it is very strong but inelastic, and soon goes at the joints.

In the seventeenth century it was largely imitated in calf, stamped

with a grain.

Perhaps the most curious leather in which any book can be bound is

human skin. Such treasures are by no means unknown. It is said that a

friend of Camille Flammarion the French writer, possessed beautiful

shoulders, and that when she died she bequeathed her skin to him as he

had always admired it. He had the skin tanned and used some of it for

a binding of one of his own books, “Ciel et Terre.” There are other

examples in private ownership, but so far as public libraries are

concerned the only instance I know of is now in the Carnavalet Library

at Paris. It is a copy of the Constitution of 1793, and is bound in the

skin of one of the revolutionaries who was killed at the time. The skin

was tanned at Meudon. Human skin, undyed, looks like thick calf, and it

is most difficult to get entirely rid of the hair.

It is to be regretted that of late years the desire for beautifully

coloured leathers has induced the need for much treatment before the

dyes, mostly aniline, could be properly applied. In the course of

this treatment there has been an undue use of sulphuric acid, and the

presence of this acid is fatal to the lasting qualities of any leather.

Attention has, however, been drawn to the evil from authoritative

sources, and now sound leathers can be obtained, and it is to be hoped

that the public will second the endeavours of the committee appointed

by the Society of Arts by always insisting on the use of sound and

certified leather to bind their valuable books in.

BOOKS TO CONSULT.

SOCIETY OF ARTS.--Report of the Committee on Leather for Bookbinding.

_London_, 1905.

LIBRARY ASSOCIATION.--Leather for Libraries. _London_, 1905.

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