SETH CHAPMAN."

NOTE 1. This practice of hauling manure to the field in the

fall, is the worst of all the foolish old fashions of farmers. To

preserve the virtue, of manure, it requires housing about as much as

hay. In fact, it is doubtful which would lose virtue fastest, a pile of

hay or a pile of manure, exposed to the storms of winter. It is no

wonder that it becomes necessary to mix guano with it, to replace that

which has evaporated during its long exposure to sun and storm.

NOTE 2. This increase of straw, is seldom taken into account in

speaking of the advantage of an application of guano; yet, as Mr.

Chapman says, it is worth enough in the vicinity of a market, to pay the

whole expense. It is also valuable in the interior for forage and

manure.

NOTE 3. This is an error. Guano should not be damped unless

with water saturated with salt, copperas, or a liberal sprinkle of

plaster over the pile.

LETTER FROM SETH RAVNOR, OF MANORVILLE TO MR.

CHAPMAN.--Successful experiments on grass, oats, corn, wheat and

rye.

"_Manorville, Sept._ 8, 1852.

S. CHAPMAN, ESQ.--Dear Sir;--I have received your circular

proposing to gather information from practical farmers of the

results from the use of guano, and to have the same published for

general circulation. Conceiving the object to be a very laudable

one, I will give the result of a few experiments tried with

Peruvian guano by myself, and others which have come under my

observation; but in doing so I think it would be of great utility

to state what kind of soil the guano was applied to. Not being a

professor of geology, I can only use such terms as are familiar

with farmers generally. The soils in this vicinity are heavy loam,

sandy loam, sandy, and occasionally some heavy clayey soils.

First, as to the nature of guano. It is generally considered to be

more of a stimulant than an enricher of the soil, if applied in its

natural state, and much more durable to be plowed in than to be

harrowed in; and as far as I have tried it, I have not found it to

be injurious to soils--or as some call it, 'kill the soil.' In the

year '49 I applied on the first of April, 176 lbs. per acre on

sandy loam grass ground--yield, about half a ton more than the acre

adjoining. Same year applied about 150 lbs. to the acre, on four

acres of oats, same kind of soil, and the estimated increase was 20

bushels to the acre. In 1850 plowed under 400 pounds per acre, for

corn, estimated increase, 15 bushels of ears. The season was rather

unfavorable for corn. In '51 composted six bushels charcoal dust to

100 lbs. guano, and plowed under for wheat, at the rate of 500 lbs.

of guano so composted, to the acre, and top dressed with 100

bushels of leached ashes--yield, 20 bushels. One of my neighbors

applied for three years in succession, 100 lbs. harrowed in with

rye, on two acres light sand--yield, 14 bushels to the acre; 10

bushels more than the acre adjoining. On the fourth year he sowed

the same ground without guano--- yield, 4 bushels to the acre. We

see by this, that the crop used the whole strength of the guano.

Another neighbor applied one ton to two acres, heavy loam; plowed

under and sowed with turnips (common Russian)--yield, 1,300

bushels--estimated increase from the guano, 600 bushels. People in

this section of the Island are agreed in this--plow under guano for

durability, and harrow in for present benefit, or present crop. For

wheat, 500 lbs. plowed in is considered a full dressing per acre.

The same for corn. For oats, 200 lbs. harrowed in. For buckwheat,

100 lbs., and 200 for barley. One tablespoonful applied in a hill,

for corn, is quite enough, and that requires to be put some six

inches from the seed; otherwise it will kill it. Some have lost

acres by putting their corn on that little quantity; the only safe

way to apply in the hill for potatoes, is the same as for corn. I

have come to the conclusion from what experience I have had with

the article, that it answers the best purpose to use it for spring

crops, in the manner above stated, or compost it with charcoal

dust, or well decomposed pond mud, to absorb and retain the

ammonia, it being very volatile in its nature. I have not written

this for publication; I have only thrown out a few hints for you to

embody.

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