In the morning the gamblers, as they were termed, were harangued by

the commander of the garrison at the head of a few soldiers. They

insisted on being armed and formed into a new regiment under the

command of a ruffian, a pork-butcher by trade; and when this was done

they appointed new officials to succeed the murdered men. The soldiers

in the New City killed two of their officers and a panic ensued in

Kashgar, but the disturbances and looting were confined to the New

City. The administration was now controlled by the gang of gamblers,

who appointed all officials and took advantage of their power to levy

blackmail, mainly on Chinese officials. In the other centres there were

murders. The governor of Yarkand, among others, was singled out for

assassination; but an exceptionally violent storm, which turned day

into night, suggested to the Chinese gamblers that heaven forbade the

deed--and the official still lives to tell the tale.

In consequence of the unrest and lack of security caused by these deeds

of violence, the Russian Government despatched a force 800 strong

to protect Russian subjects. For some weeks after its arrival there

was no friction or cause of alarm, but the celebration of a Chinese

rite nearly gave rise to most serious consequences. On the day of the

Festival of the Departed Spirits it is the custom of the Chinese to

burn paper-money before the temples in order to ensure financial ease

for their deceased relatives. One of the temples in Kashgar was the

scene of this ceremonial, and a rumour reached the Russian consulate

that the bazar was on fire. Help was immediately despatched in the

shape of fifteen Cossacks, who, misunderstanding the situation,

forcibly put out the fires in which the paper-money was being burnt.

While this was being done some of the Cossack horses broke loose

and galloped back to the consulate, where considerable anxiety was

felt. The city gate was shut at the usual hour of 8 P.M., and, upon

its arrival, the Russian main body, under the impression that their

detachment had been cut off, blew it up with dynamite, and marching

through the opening found the Cossacks perfectly safe.

Not long after this the “Gambler” regiment was ordered to Urumchi,

and the officer commanding the Cossacks, who was disappointed at the

entirely peaceful attitude of the Chinese, decided to attack it, his

plan being to carry out night manœuvres to the east of the city

across the line of march--and to create a “regrettable incident.” But

he reckoned without Sir George Macartney, who, getting wind of this

typically Russian scheme, which received confirmation from the sudden

departure of the Cossacks, induced the Chinese authorities at the very

last minute to change the line of march from due east to north-west,

with a wide detour afterwards to the north. Thanks to this action by

our able representative the trap was set in vain. The regiment, which

had obeyed its orders with deep reluctance, finally reached Urumchi

with its numbers much diminished by desertion, and the ruffianly

pork-butcher was subsequently put to death. The Russian troops were

shortly afterwards withdrawn from Kashgar, and that city once again

settled down to its habitual drowsiness.

In conclusion, the old-world policy of China was to surround her

fertile empire with buffer states. At the end of the eighteenth century

these included Annam, Siam, Burma, Assam, Bhutan, Sikkim, Nepal, Ladak,

Kashmir and Khokand, together with the maritime provinces of Siberia.

But the nineteenth century, which saw the advance of Russia, the rise

of Japan, and also powerful strangers from the west thundering at the

watergates of the Middle Kingdom, brought heavy territorial losses to

China, and to-day her system of buffer states has been swept away by

the new powers. Great Britain has shown considerable activity and has

occupied or gained political ascendency over many of these states, and

at the present time marches with the Chinese Empire not only on the

confines of Burma to the south, but also on the borders of Ladak and

Kashmir.

Russia, on her side, has made a great advance, and now occupies

Khokand, Andijan and the Khanates generally, together with the Pamirs

to the west of Chinese Turkestan; to the north the Russian province

of Semirechia, through which is being constructed a railway that will

attract much of its commerce, overshadows the province of Chinese

Turkestan.

Thus the old order of isolation, on which China relied, is passing,

and the new order, which includes modern methods of communication,

is coming into force, hastened by the desire for progress which is

affecting large sections of mankind in Asia.

The future of Chinese Turkestan is not finally settled, but the World

War which has temporarily broken up the Russian Empire will undoubtedly

stimulate China to move along the path of progress. If so, there is

hope that the condition of this outlying province of her empire may

benefit, more especially by improved communications. At the same time

there are many parts of Asia which have reason to envy the peace and

plenty enjoyed by the inhabitants of Chinese Turkestan.

CHAPTER XVI

A KASHGAR FARMER

La latitude assez basse du Turkestan chinois combinée avec son

altitude considérable, la sécheresse de son atmosphère et ses saisons

nettement tranchées rendent le pays propre à des cultures très

diverses, à celles qui se contentent d’un climat tempéré comme à

celles qui exigent des chaleurs fortes et prolongées; mais excluent

les plantes qui craignent les froids hivernaux ou réclament une grande

humidité.--GRENARD, _La Haute Asie_, ii. 173.

The cultivator, who is the backbone of Chinese Turkestan, depends

entirely on irrigated crops, as there is no regular rainfall in the

country. Rain, termed the “mercy of Allah” in Persia, is considered to

be the opposite in Kashgar, partly because of the utter irregularity

of its incidence. If there be a heavy fall in the spring, the soil

cakes and the young plants cannot force their way through, and this

necessitates a fresh sowing. Rain at harvest time, or when the melons

ripen, is equally unwelcome, and when there is a heavy rainfall the

farmer exclaims, “What great crime has been committed that we suffer

such a calamity?” Snow is regarded with less disfavour. As a rule there

is plenty of water for every one in the Kashgar oasis, and fights for

it occur only in the spring, when each cultivator wishes to water his

land first, in order to secure an early crop for the market.

Owing to the abundance of water and the absence of hail-storms or other

serious climatic drawbacks, agriculture, except for rust and blight,

which are seldom experienced, is a certainty, in complete contrast to

the reputation it bears in countries that depend on the rainfall for

their crops. The life of the oasis, where every acre is cultivated and

where the agricultural population is comparatively dense, is quite

unlike that of Persia, where each village is surrounded by square

miles of uncultivated land, which furnishes grazing, fodder and fuel.

There are a few isolated villages, or groups of villages, in Chinese

Turkestan, but the country generally consists of extensive oases set in

a lifeless desert.

The chief crops are millet, rice, maize, wheat, barley, cotton, lucerne

clover, hemp, linseed, turnips, carrots and tobacco. Millet and rice

are regarded as the best-paying crops, the former occupying one-half of

the total area cultivated.

Of fruits and vegetables, apricots, grapes, peaches, nectarines,

quinces, cherries, figs, apples, pears, mulberries, pomegranates and

melons grow in great profusion, and pumpkins, which are the staple

vegetable, are supplemented by carrots, turnips, onions, cucumbers,

garlic and fennel.

The upper classes are less civilized than in Persia, partly because

they do not mix socially with the European colonies; good fruit trees

and seeds have therefore not been introduced. This state of affairs

reflects little credit on the merchants from Andijan, who could easily

introduce the magnificent fruit trees which are now grown at Tashkent.

The Chinese of the New City farm much better than the native Moslems,

and have introduced the curious plum-cherry, with its blue, white and

red varieties of fruit, beans of various kinds, beetroot, cabbages,

including kohl rabi, lettuces, potatoes, tomatoes and spinach; but

there is little contact between the Chinese and Moslem farmers, so that

the latter do not learn much from the efficient Celestials.

The trees in the Kashgar Oasis, other than fruit trees, include the

Lombardy and the spreading poplar, the latter growing to a great size,

and the Turkestan elm, of which a grafted species grows in a pyramidal

shape. The common willow and the Babylonian willow of two species--one

with an edible fruit resembling the Bohemian olive--are planted along

every irrigation channel and serve as fuel.

Next to agriculture the most important industry is the raising of

live-stock--horses, donkeys, camels, cattle, sheep and goats. The

horses bred by the Kalmucks around Karashahr are the best, being

stronger than the Kirghiz ponies, because the Kalmucks do not drink

mare’s milk. They are usually geldings, standing about fourteen hands,

and are ideal for transport purposes. The Kirghiz pony is hardy and

enduring, but not strong or up to much weight. The Yarkandi, especially

a roan, was a favourite mount in India in the last century, and is

mentioned in Anglo-Indian novels of the period; it is still exported in

small numbers.

[Illustration: A LOAD OF CLOVER FROM ISA _HAJI’S_ FARM. _Page 302._]

Donkeys are found in thousands and take the place of the wheelbarrow

and the cart in England, besides carrying the bulk of the internal

trade. Camels, of the two-humped or Bactrian species, are highly

esteemed, especially by the Kirghiz, as they are not affected by

cold or deep snow, and can cross rivers that ponies have to swim.

Cattle-breeding is carried on mainly in the mountains and in the wooded

tracts along the courses of the rivers. The animals are small, and are

bred for milk and for ploughing. Sheep are usually of the fat-tailed

species, but in the southern districts there is also a short-haired

breed. All animals, as a rule, are miserably thin owing to the almost

entire absence of grazing.

I think it may be useful to select a typical farmer and study his

life closely; for by this means we shall get down to the bed-rock of

definite fact, which is preferable to vague generalizations about

agriculture. Isa _Haji_, the subject of this sketch, was a farmer, aged

75, who lived not far from the city wall. Helped by two of his five

sons, aged 18 and 16 respectively, he farmed 40 _mows_, or about six

acres of land, which is the average size of a farm close to Kashgar.

Here the manure obtained from the city enables the whole of the land

to be cultivated at once, whereas farther off, where little manure is

available, the farms are larger because a part of the land must always

be allowed to lie fallow. One half of the _Haji’s_ land was devoted

to lucerne clover, the remainder being sown with millet, wheat, rice,

cotton, melons and linseed. As a rule only one crop a year was taken

off the land; but millet, carrots and turnips were sown after the wheat

crop; in this case the millet did not ripen, but was valuable as green

forage; the clover was cut four times in the year. In one corner of

the farm were willow trees, which were pollarded every four years to

serve as fuel for the owners. Isa _Haji_, being an old man, merely

assisted in watering the fields, while his sons did all the ploughing,

harvesting and threshing. His two eldest sons kept a grain-shop in

Russian Turkestan, the third was a bricklayer, and the others, when not

at work on the farm, earned sixpence a day as labourers. The _Haji_

owned a yoke of plough-oxen and four donkeys, the former being fed

on cotton-seed and the latter on millet. His agricultural implements

included a primitive plough, a harrow, mattocks of two sizes, sickles,

_zambils_ or hurdles for carrying earth, a stone roller for threshing

rice and a shovel for winnowing. Manure, consisting of horse and cow

droppings, night soil and ashes, was bought in the city at the rate of

threepence per donkey load, and used freely on the land, which was a

rich alluvial loam; the frequent storms also deposited layers of dust

which were regarded as good for the crops.

The house, which Isa _Haji_ owned and had built room by room as he

could afford it, at a total cost (including the land) of £50, covered

a square of sixty feet. The guest-room, in which he lived during the

summer and in which the meals were cooked and served, was about twenty

feet square and was lighted by a hole in the roof. A mud platform

covered with felts, on which the family slept, occupied a prominent

position, and the chief piece of furniture was a carved box, which held

clothes and served as a bedstead. Above it was a shelf full of Russian

teapots. Off this room opened the store-room, in which grain was kept

for winter consumption and which served as the living-room in winter.

There was also a courtyard partly roofed in with matting during the

summer, in which grew a shady tree, and this was the chief working room

of the wife and daughters-in-law at that season. Here we noticed a

cradle, a spinning-wheel and various pans. Two small rooms belonged to

two unmarried sons, and the rest of the square contained stabling, an

oven and a store for dry fodder.

[Illustration: THE SONS OF ISA _HAJI_ PLOUGHING. _Page 304._]

The home was managed by the wife and her three daughters-in-law, who

cooked the food, looked after the children and made the clothes. They

did not work in the fields, but spun the cotton into yarn, which they

wove into the rough white calico of which most of the clothing of the

poorer classes is fashioned.

The staple food of the family was bread made from millet, a grain that

is held to be more sustaining than wheat or rice. Isa _Haji’s_ large

family consumed all his share of the crops, except the lucerne and some

of the melons, turnips, carrots and linseed, which were sold. The oil

of the linseed was used for cooking and lighting.

The chief meal of these peasant-farmers was eaten at sunset and

consisted of _suyukash_, a soup prepared from pieces of paste-like

macaroni and vegetables boiled in water. In the morning they took tea

with cream and salt, and fruit and bread were eaten at odd hours. Meat,

generally beef, appeared on their table only once a week. There was

plenty of this rude fare, supplemented by slices of pumpkin eaten hot

and by other delicacies; and Isa _Haji’s_ sons appeared healthy, their

teeth being noticeably fine and sound. They said that they suffered a

good deal from lack of warmth in the winter, as charcoal was dear and

had to be used sparingly. They placed a bowl of lighted charcoal under

a wooden frame, over which a quilt was thrown, and the family sat by

day and slept by night under this covering, with their feet towards

the centre.

Isa _Haji_ had been the tenant of the farm for more than ten years. It

included three small properties belonging to three Kashgar merchants.

Two-thirds of the lucerne, amounting in value to about five pounds, and

one half of the other crops, were paid over as rent. He had no security

of tenure, and could be turned out at will, but the prospect of this

appeared to him unlikely, and he expressed satisfaction with his lot.

The farm paid revenue to the extent of 105 lbs. of wheat, a similar

quantity of millet and 2100 lbs. of chopped straw, Isa _Haji_ and his

landlords each paying one half of the whole. There had also to be met

the demand of the Chinese authorities for forced labour on public works

and transport, but this was compounded for in money and might come to

the equivalent of two shillings per annum. Nothing was paid for the

use of irrigation water, and the taxation represented less than 5 per

cent of the two main crops. In the case of villages situated at some

distance from the city double this amount may be taken by the tax

collectors, who are more exacting in proportion to their distance from

headquarters.

To sum up, we have an oasis in which agriculture is not affected by

the rainfall, but depends entirely on the rivers. The peasants have

enough to eat, a good climate and neighbours in abundance. There are

few parts of the world where the people are so contented, and, although

discontent might perhaps bring an improvement of their lot, it is

pleasant to see such cheerful, friendly tillers of the soil leading a

healthy agricultural life, and to meet them returning home at night

singing their tuneful songs:

How happy he who crowns in shades like these

A youth of labour with an age of ease;

Who quits a world where strong temptations try,

And, since ’tis hard to combat, learns to fly.

CHAPTER XVII

MANNERS AND CUSTOMS IN CHINESE TURKESTAN

Straight and slender-waisted are the maids of Kashgar,

Short, with sack-like figures, are the maids of Yangi Hissar.

A goitre above and fat below are the maids of Yarkand.

Arranging apples on saucers are the maids of Khotan-Ilchi.

Wearing felt caps, with foreheads high, are the maids of Sarikol.

_The Maids of Turkestan._ (From an old ballad.)

The inhabitants of Chinese Turkestan are divided by the anthropologist

into four distinct groups. The first consists of the Sarikoli and

Pakhpo mountaineers, who are pure Aryans. The second is a desert group

including the mass of the inhabitants of the country, the basis of this

population being Aryan with some Uighur admixture, more especially

at Aksu in the north. The third group is formed of the Kirghiz, the

Dulanis and the inhabitants of Aksu; the fourth consists of the Chinese

and Mongols, whose differentiation from the Kirghiz is to be noted. The

Aryan type has been best preserved in the southern and south-western

parts of the province, with their rugged mountain areas which are

difficult of access. In the western districts Turkish influence is

evident, in the northern the Mongol zone begins, and this, as our

survey moves eastwards, gives place to the Chinese.

Throughout this work reference is constantly made to the people of

Chinese Turkestan, and here an attempt will be made to summarize their

character. They are distinctly to be classified as “tame,” in the

frontier officer’s sense of the word, being submissive, lacking in

spirit and ready to serve any master, provided that they can enjoy life

in their own way, with feasting, women and music. In their ballads they

complain of forced labour, with its separation from wife and family,

and they sing the praises of the home. But they are not faithful to

their wives: “Let every one follow his inclination and enjoy himself

with the woman he prefers. If the kings were just, every one would have

his beloved mistress at his side.” Lack of physical and moral energy

and dislike of hard, continuous work and, above all, of discipline,

are notable characteristics of these apathetic oasis-dwellers; but

against these imperfections, which they share, more or less, with

the neighbouring peoples of Russian Turkestan, must be set many good

qualities. Hospitality is found everywhere, strangers are welcomed and

the people are pleasant to deal with, their politeness being especially

marked. The Chinese rule, though supported by few troops, is a living

force, and this proves that the people are law-abiding. Moreover, there

is very little fanaticism, and the inhabitants of Chinese Turkestan,

although obedient to their spiritual leaders, are not easily excited

to rebellion. One inconsistent trait in this home-loving race is the

readiness they show to undertake a journey, though travelling is

generally hard and wearisome; but perhaps the chief cause of this

is curiosity, and, after all, relatively few travellers leave their

beloved province. “We love our festivals” is the general refrain of

this happy, but nonchalant, race of lotos-eaters.

During the months we spent in this little-known country, I employed

my spare time in collecting information regarding its manners and

customs, which, as is natural, bore strong traces of Chinese origin.

They were also influenced by the fact that the people were Buddhists

for many hundreds of years before their forcible conversion to Islam in

the tenth century, when they became Sunnis, looking up to the _Khan_

of Bokhara and, above him, to the Sultan of Turkey. Their holy places

remained unchanged so far as the sites were concerned, and on them

shrines in honour of Moslem saints have been erected. Ancestor-worship,

too, is inherited from the Chinese, with the result that the tombs are

visited with a frequency unknown elsewhere in Central Asia.

Girls, when they reach a marriageable age, visit one of the shrines

and pray as follows: “O Allah, O Lord of the Shrine, grant me a house

with a kettle ready placed on the stove, and a spoon in the kettle. May

it be a house with its four sides decorated with cloth, with carpets

and druggets ready spread, and with towels hanging from the pegs.

Grant me a husband whose father and mother are dead; and may he have

no other wife!” When the saint vouchsafes to hear this delightfully

naïve petition and a suitor appears on the scene, there is no formal

betrothal, although in the case of the wealthy large sums are paid by

the bridegroom and the bride is richly dowered. Costly gifts, too, are

given to the bride by the bridegroom and by relatives and friends. In

the case of a poor man, a payment of merely one or two pounds sterling

is made to the parents, who defray the bride’s outfit from the money.

The next step taken is to obtain a certificate from the _Imam_ of the

quarter, that the woman is free to marry, and after the payment of a

small fee a written permission for the marriage is given by the local

_Beg_.

Nowadays there is no special wedding-dress, and even the globular

wedding-cap of cloth of gold or silver has ceased to be worn. The

marriage ceremony is generally celebrated at the termination of a

feast which lasts until the evening. A _mulla_ reads the _fatiha_ or

opening chapter of the Koran, after which the agent of the bride goes

to the women’s apartment and asks her thrice whether she accepts the

bridegroom, and upon receiving her bashfully given consent, he returns

to the men to announce the success of his mission, thereby completing

the _nikah_ or legal ceremony. Two pieces of bread soaked in salt water

are then given to the bridegroom and bride respectively, and this, in

popular opinion, is the most important act of the marriage. Indeed many

marriages are contracted by the observance of this custom alone, bread

and salt probably symbolizing the inauguration of a new household,

although the meaning has now been forgotten.

As the bride leaves her old home, the mother laments: “O my black-eyed

darling! Alas, my child, my child! My sweet-voiced, soft-eyed darling!

My daughter leaves me, and I remain in an empty house. Alas, my child,

my child!”

When conducted to her new home, the people of the quarter bar her path

by means of a fire, and demand gifts in the shape of handkerchiefs. The

groom, too, will not allow her to dismount from her horse until he

is handsomely fee’d, and finally, when the bride enters her husband’s

house, flour and cotton are set before her and given away to the poor.

This ceremony is termed _Ak-Yul-luk_ or “White Road,” and symbolizes a

happy journey through life. During the lifetime of the older generation

the bridegroom is called _kiau oghli_ or “son-in-law” by the parents,

and the bride _kelin_ or “daughter-in-law,” but she is spoken of as a

_chaukan_ or married woman by her neighbours.

There is an immense difference between the villagers and the

townspeople in Kashgar, both in the position of women and in their

morality. The villagers as a rule marry only one wife and rarely

practise divorce, and their wives take a high position inherited from

pre-Islamic days. For example, it is customary to agree, before the

reading of the _nikah_, that the wife shall be taken to the shrine of

_Hazrat Apak_ for _tawwuf_ or “circling” of the tomb when the apricots

are ripe, other stipulations being that the woman cannot be taken to

another town without her consent, and sometimes that the husband shall

not take another wife. The women may frequently be seen riding to

market on good horses and attending to business almost on an equality

with the men. In the city wives are constantly divorced, so much so

that the majority of them remarry many times. Temporary marriages,

resembling in effect _sigheh_ marriages in Persia, are also very

common, and some women systematically indulge in divorces in order

to gain money. They cannot remarry until after the expiration of the

_iddat_ of three months and ten days, but upon receiving two letters

of divorce--generally obtained in different towns--they can remarry

at once by using the older letter. It is an indication of the low

position held by women in the towns that a merchant, on starting off to

business, will sometimes return home if he first meets one of the fair

sex, this being looked upon as a bad omen.

Constant intermarriage, as in most Moslem countries, produces sad

results in the form of idiocy, deafness and dumbness in the offspring,

such visitations being especially noticeable among the rich, landed

classes, who intermarry generation after generation, in order to keep

the family property intact. So far is this policy pursued that in the

richest family of Kashgar many of the girls have perforce remained

single because there were not enough cousins to go round. It is

interesting to note that in this matter the Chinese go to the opposite

extreme, the whole nation being divided up into about one hundred

divisions, and no man being permitted to marry a woman of his own

division, although she be in no way related to him.

In Kashgar, marriage is not the chief event in a woman’s life, the

ceremony of _chachbagh_ or “braiding of the hair” being far more

important, although held at no fixed time after marriage, and not

depending on the birth of a child. It is celebrated by a great feast,

with dancing, which sometimes lasts for three days. Gifts, far richer

than those given at marriage, are bestowed on the wife, the parents in

many cases handing over landed property. The culminating point is the

appearance of the woman, who, attired in her richest clothes, takes the

seat of honour in the room; and then, in the presence of all, her hair,

hitherto worn in four or five plaits, is formally and for the first

time braided in two plaits, and she becomes thereby a _jawan_. She is

now entitled to wear five red semicircular strips of embroidery on the

right side of the neck of her gown, one below the other, and increasing

successively in length. In the case of the rich, Indian cloth of gold

is generally used.

One day a woman was seen weeping at a shrine, and her prayer was as

follows: “O Holy One! What shall I do? How shall I live? I have been

left an orphan. I am become a stranger. What shall I do? Am I to suffer

the hardships of an orphan? Am I to remain lonely? I have no father, no

mother. Every one is oppressing me. O Allah, I am lost among friends

and foes. Alas, my stranger’s fate! Alas, my orphan’s fate! O Holy One,

put love into the heart of my husband and make his mind just towards

me. O Allah, grant me the wish of my heart, give me a son, a son with

a long life. I have become a stranger. Thou hast left me an orphan. O

Allah, help me and make my enemies like dust.”

After this fervent prayer the suppliant, with her eyes shut, put her

hand into a hole in the tomb and drew forth a morsel of earth, which

she swallowed. Her faith was justified, and in due course of time

she began to make arrangements for an easy delivery, to ensure which

a visit was paid to a _bakhshi_ or magician. He played upon a drum

and chanted some incoherent gibberish, the woman meanwhile holding a

rope that hung from the roof, and dancing round it until giddiness

ensued. After this ceremony she paid a fee, gave alms to the poor, and

returned home with her heart at ease. Later on she visited the tombs

of her ancestors, taking with her an offering of food, and begged them

to intercede for an easy delivery and, above all, for the birth of

a son. She laid the offering near the grave, praised her ancestors,

lamented her own failings, walked round the tomb seven times and

finally distributed the food to the beggars. About a month before the

event, she went on foot to a place where there were seven water mills,

and after slowly crossing the seven ducts that fed them, returned home

with happy confidence in the special efficacy of the ceremony.

[Illustration: A MAGICIAN AND HIS DISCIPLE. _Page 314._]

When her hour was come, no one was allowed to leave the house unless

upon business that was urgent, in which case no harm was anticipated,

provided that some article of dress was left behind. The women of the

neighbourhood assembled to help, and during the delivery cried out

with the idea of keeping the birth a secret, a custom adopted from

the Chinese. The newly born infant, too, was carefully concealed from

visitors.

If former children belonging to the parents have all died, which is,

alas, a frequent occurrence, the father, dressed as a beggar, takes the

baby to the bazar and begs from the shopkeepers small pieces of calico,

which are made into a shirt, the idea being to avoid misfortune by thus

humbling himself. Special names signifying “solid” or “stay” or “may he

stay!” are in such cases given to the child when he is named, between

the third and seventh day, by a _mulla_, who first whispers the _azan_

or call to prayer into his ear. On the fortieth day the head of the

infant is shaved and the hair buried. A sheep is sacrificed and eaten

on this occasion, while its bones, which must not be broken, are buried.

The rite of circumcision, one of the most important of the “five

foundations” of Islam, is performed between the third and eighth

years. The barber operates, and in the case of the rich the event is

celebrated by a feast lasting two or three days, at which the boy

receives presents including hard-boiled eggs, with which he plays a

game by knocking them together.

Children of both sexes are sent to school very young, the idea being

that they will gradually pick up their letters. Education in Kashgar

merely consists of learning by heart a chapter of the Koran and its

Turki equivalent. The letters are taught, penmanship is encouraged, and

lessons are given in the forms of prayer and of ablution. Geography,

history (as distinct from legend), mathematics and foreign languages

are utterly neglected, and the girls leave school at about ten and most

of the boys a year or two later. The teachers are narrow-minded bigots,

and the parents are content to have it so, with the result that there

is not much progress in Kashgar.

We visited the chief boys’ school in Kashgar, where the master bade

his favourite pupils recite passages from the Koran. This they did in

a lugubrious sing-song, swaying backwards and forwards as if in pain.

The pedagogue and his scholars were then photographed, holding imposing

leather-bound and silver-embossed books, which on enquiry proved to be

commentaries on the Koran.

[Illustration: A KASHGAR SCHOOL. _Page 316._]

The death ceremonies are in general those common to Islam throughout

Asia, but there are also some customs peculiar to Kashgar. The body,

after being washed and shrouded, is laid out with the thumbs of the

hands and the big toes tied together, while the chin is also tied

up. It is then carried out of the house and, at seven paces from the

door, a spoonful of rice water is poured on the ground. At every seven

steps this is repeated, and the following verse recited:

_Zir_[16] has come, _Zabar_ has come,

From the centre of the earth news has come.

O swift dogs of the door of heaven,

Come, open the gates of paradise for this man.

This mention of dogs is due to Chinese influence; in Islam they occupy

a degraded position and are considered unclean. Contrary to the general

usage of Islam, white is the mourning colour, as in China. The funeral

procession to the grave is headed by professional mourners, and

accompanied by a _mulla_, who reads sentences from the Koran on the

way, and conducts the service at the grave.

Women do not attend at the graveside, but mourn at a neighbouring

mosque: “O my father! My brave father! My good father!” or “O my

mother! My beautiful mother with black eyebrows! Thou leavest us and

we are alone.” One curious custom is that of driving a stick into the

grave near the head of the corpse, which Grenard considers to be a

survival of the ancient practice of offering food to the dead. On the

third day a solemn feast is held in the house of the deceased. The

mourning lasts for forty days, and upon the termination of this period

a second feast is given, and the normal life is then resumed by the

mourners.

The system of medicine at Kashgar is based on the ancient Greek theory

as taught by Hippocrates, Galen and Plato, whose works were translated

into Arabic and Persian, especially by Abu Ali bin Sina, known in

Europe as Avicenna. Diseases are divided into the categories of “hot”

and “cold,” to be cured by medicines and food of the opposite category.

For instance, in the case of fever, cock’s flesh, which is “cold,”

is eaten, or fish. Hen’s flesh is considered “hot” in Persia, but in

Kashgar there is some difference of opinion among the faculty.

The Kashgar doctors believe implicitly in giving pigeon’s or duck’s

blood in cases of poisoning, and, moreover, prescribe the flesh of a

nestling sparrow torn in two to ease swellings in the groin; they stop

bleeding by means of a pad composed of burnt felt, or a bit of leather

covered with mud or filth. Rheumatism and dropsy are treated by burying

the patient in hot sand or by wrapping him in the skin of a recently

killed sheep, and abdominal complaints by sticking several lighted

candles into a loaf and placing it on the patient’s stomach.

So much for the doctors of Kashgar; but, as their reputation is very

low, recourse is had to other means of curing sickness. Among the most

common is the female diviner, who, when called in, kneads flour into

a ball, recites some gibberish in which the names of the archangels

and of Solomon are mentioned, and solemnly buries the ball under the

fire, reciting the names of all the holy men who are buried in the

neighbourhood. Whichever of these saints is being mentioned when the

ball bursts has to be propitiated. Oil is taken to his shrine, where

it is boiled and the steam is inhaled by the patient, after which

it is mixed with food, part of which is distributed to the poor and

part eaten for seven days by the sufferer. This ceremony is termed

_chachratku_ or “bursting of a ball of kneaded flour” and is regarded

as most efficacious.

The power of the evil eye is firmly believed in by all classes,

and children usually wear round their necks a little leather case

containing a verse of the Koran as a protection against it. If a child

is believed to be possessed, an old woman recites the following:

“Allah is sublime. Praise be to Allah! There is no god but Allah. If

thou art an evil eye depart, as this place is not for thee. Go to a

deserted watermill; go to a deserted house; go to a grave; go to the

house of the _Kazi_. These are the commands of Allah, of Solomon and of

the Saint.” The evil eye cannot withstand this invocation and leaves

the sufferer forthwith.

In cases of possession by the devil, a magician is called in, and

chants as follows: “Another head has come to the head; another body has

come to the body. Your master has come; a jade lamp and blood sherbet

are here. You will soon be like ashes, for I have an iron knife to cut

you with and coal bullets to shoot you with.” The devil, hearing these

threats from the magician, quits the patient without more ado.

Among general remedies are the following: The eyes of sheep sacrificed

at the _Id-i-Gurban_ at Mecca are dried and kept as powerful charms for

sickness. When used they are moistened and applied to the forehead.

Another remedy consists of bread and meat, collected from seven bakers

and butchers. The food, when prepared, is taken, together with a doll,

to the grave of a saint, after which some of it is eaten and the

remainder distributed to the poor. This effects the cure. Yet another

curious treatment is to cover up the patient’s head while a man walks

round him with lighted straw, uttering certain special prayers during

the fumigation.

As to children’s ailments: if a child cries too much, straw is swept up

from three roads, dust is taken from the footprints of passers-by and

Syrian rue is collected from the desert; the mixture is then lighted

and the child is cured by being held over the smoke. If a child suffers

from deafness, one method is to call in the services of a trumpeter,

who spits into the ear, while another plan is to cut seven small twigs,

wrap them up in cotton and, on market day, to tie the little bundle to

the ear of a donkey loaded with salt. For other ailments, seven coral

beads are thrown into a spring; or, again, copper pieces are begged

from seven men named Mohamed, others are added by the parents, and a

charm is made to hang round the child’s neck.

Finally, there are certain shrines famous for the cure of specific

diseases. For skin disease a shrine known as the _Sigm_ is much

frequented. There mud is taken from a well outside and thrown at the

wall with a prayer to the saint, after which the suppliant walks away

without looking back.

[Illustration: A WOMAN THROWING MUD TO EFFECT A CURE. _Page 320._]

I conclude this brief account of the treatment of diseases in Kashgar

by a story entitled “The Clever Physician”:[17]

“Once upon a time there was a physician. When this physician entered

the room where the sick person was, he looked all about it, and

whatever met his eyes in the shape of an eatable, he looked at the

patient and said, ‘You have eaten such and such a thing and that is

what has done you harm.’ The physician had a pupil, and wherever the

physician went, there went his pupil with him. A rich man had become

paralysed, that is to say, unable to walk. Many physicians had treated

him, but his disease did not abate. At last, having heard that the

aforesaid physician’s pupil was a wonderful medical adept, he summoned

him to his house.

“When the physician’s pupil had entered the house and had carefully

looked round, he perceived that there was nothing at all in the shape

of an eatable in it, but in one corner of the room an old donkey-saddle

had been thrown down. When he saw this he exclaimed, ‘Oh, rich man!

you have eaten an old donkey-saddle, through which your disease has

increased and you have become paralysed.’ When he said this, the rich

man was very angry, and exclaiming, ‘Does one who is called a human

being eat donkey-saddles?’ sprang up in his rage in order to beat him

and--walked!

“The physician, poor fellow, was terrified and had fled away. The rich

man was struck with wonder and exclaimed, ‘This is a great man; for my

leg, which grew no better for any physician’s medicine, has now become

quite well through this person.’ He caused the physician’s pupil to

be summoned, apologized to him, and sent him away with many valuable

gifts.”

At the first fall of snow a man frequently calls on a friend with some

snow wrapped in an envelope, while in another are enclosed verses:

My dear friend with this document I throw you snow;

From joy of heart this game arose;

Cups and jugs we have collected and wooden trays;

And we have prepared sweetmeats.

The mandoline, violin, zither and tambourine we have made ready.

When snow has fallen in winter, do not people give entertainments?

If there are friends living around do not people invite them?

If you are clever enough to seize the man who has brought the snow,

Powder his face, paint him like a girl, and beat him severely.

The visitor places his verses secretly in the house and then decamps.

If the owner of the house catches him he beats him, paints his face

like a girl and leads him through the streets calling out, “This is the

punishment for the man who throws snow”; and the visitor is then bound

to give an entertainment. But if the owner of the house does not catch

the visitor, he himself must prepare a banquet. If he fails to do so

within a week, bulrushes are tied on the top of his door, and if this

hint is not sufficient, the bier from the cemetery is placed outside

his house.

Owing to Chinese influence, there is no Moslem country where respect

for parents and for superiors is so strong as in Kashgar. During the

lives of the parents they are never referred to by name by their

children, but are always addressed as “My Lord.” A son will never

sit in the presence of his father without special permission, but

will stand with the head bowed and hands folded in token of humility.

He would never dream of retiring to sleep before his father, nor of

smoking in his presence. To superiors deference is shown by dismounting

from horseback, and by always prefacing an answer with _taksir_ or

“fault,” which has come to be the equivalent of our “Sir.” Upon receipt

of a robe of honour, the recipient bows low, sweeping the arms in a

circle to stroke the beard. Women courtesy by bowing low with folded

hands.

The Kashgaris have few games, but kite-flying, an elementary form

of rounders, pitch-and-toss into a hole with walnuts or coins, and

a kind of tip-cat are favourite amusements. Grown-up men indulge in

ram-fighting and partridge-fighting, heavy bets being made on the

contests.

Music is extremely popular, the Kashgar peasants being distinctly

musical, and their refrains, sung in unison on returning from work, are

pleasing to the European ear. The usual instruments are the tambourine,

the mandoline and the four-stringed _rubab_. In Kashgar dancing is

regarded as improper, and is indulged in only by professional women

or boys; but in the Khotan oasis, among the Dulanis of Merket, the

Sarikolis and the Kirghiz, men and women dance together at weddings.

At entertainments the men and women sit on opposite sides and, when

the music commences, a woman rises and places a handkerchief in front

of a man, who thereupon rises also, sings a song and returns the

handkerchief. This is done by all present, and men and women then dance

together.

During my stay in Chinese Turkestan I sought for any custom which might

be a survival from the days of the Nestorian Christians. One such is

that horse-dealers, when a bargain is not concluded, make the sign of

the cross on the horse to avert the evil eye. It is interesting to note

that, owing to Chinese influence, black and dark grey are the favourite

colours for horses, whereas few people care to buy a roan, whose colour

is deemed unlucky.

CHAPTER XVIII

STALKING THE GREAT SHEEP OF MARCO POLO

Do you know the world’s white roof-tree--do you know that windy rift

Where the baffling mountain-eddies chop and change?

Do you know the long day’s patience, belly-down on frozen drift,

While the head of heads is feeding out of range?

It is there that I am going, where the boulders and the snow lie,

With a trusty, nimble tracker that I know,

I have sworn an oath, to keep it on the Horns of Ovis poli,

And the Red Gods call me out and I must go!

KIPLING, _The Feet of the Young Men_.

Life in the East, more especially away from important centres, lacks

most of the amenities which are taken as a matter of course in the

civilized West. Family life is broken up, society is restricted,

communications are bad, involving few and irregular posts, and health

frequently suffers from the climate and from indifferent food. So much

for the debit side. But fortunately there is a credit side, and for the

Englishman sport is a large item on this side and does much to brighten

the otherwise trying monotony of life in Asia. It also helps him to

maintain his energy and health, and with it that sane outlook which is

one of the main secrets of our success as a world-power.

When appointed to Kashgar I had hopes of fulfilling the ambition of a

life-time by stalking one of Marco Polo’s great sheep, the _Ovis poli_.

As a youth I had been fascinated by the record of the celebrated

Venetian traveller, and after joining the army had made considerable

efforts to travel in the Pamirs in 1891 and 1892. But the arrest of

Younghusband, mentioned in Chapter XV., closed the “Roof of the World”

to the private traveller, and it seemed as if I were not destined to

tread these mysterious upland valleys. But the fates were kind. On the

way to Kashgar I stopped at Petrograd, where a high Russian official,

whose colleague I had been at Meshed, said that he felt sure I should

wish to shoot an Ovis poli in the Pamirs. I replied emphatically in

the affirmative, and it was speedily arranged that I should receive

an invitation to travel in the regions which for so many years I had

longed to visit.

Before describing the _Ovis poli_, which confers the blue riband upon

the hunter of big game, both from the magnificence of the trophy and

the inaccessibility of its habitat, I will quote Marco Polo, who wrote:

“There are great numbers of all kinds of wild beasts [in the Pamirs];

among others, wild sheep of great size, whose horns are good six palms

in length. From these horns the shepherds make great bowls to eat from,

and they use the horns also to enclose folds for their cattle at night.”

The credit of Marco suffered through the ignorance of mankind, and it

was not until the nineteenth century that his character for accuracy

was vindicated by Lieutenant Wood, who, when he reached England in 1838

after his famous journey to a chief source of the Oxus, exhibited some

skulls with horns 4 feet 8 inches long, and on the strength of these

specimens the species was appropriately named _Ovis poli_ or “The sheep

of (Marco) Polo.”

It is the most splendid member of a splendid group, to which belong

also the _Ovis ammon_ of Tibet, with more massive but shorter

horns, and the _Ovis karelini_ of the Tian Shan, which is a smaller

sub-species of the _poli_, the “record” head, shot by E. W. Dixon,

measuring only 58½ inches. In the _Ovis poli_, the enormous horns are

longer and relatively narrower than in any of the other wild sheep,

forming a more open spiral and much more than one complete circle, with

the flat surface markedly angulated.[18] The summer coat is lightly

speckled and the legs are white, but in the winter the ruff becomes

pure white. The height at the shoulders exceeds 12 hands, and the

weight may be about 22 stone. The length of horns is enormous, one

specimen, believed to be the longest on record, measuring 6 feet 3

inches! Marco’s “six palms” may perhaps be the equivalent of 5 feet; so

that his estimate was in no way exaggerated.

The great distinction of being the first European to shoot an _Ovis

poli_ was won by Captain (the late Sir Henry) Trotter, who describes

the event as follows: “It was during a very tedious and long march of

thirty-seven miles, mostly through snow, that my attention was suddenly

called to the presence of some wild sheep about two hundred yards up

the hillside. My rifle was handy, and in a few seconds one of them came

rolling down. It was the first _Ovis poli_ ever shot by a European

sportsman, but it was unfortunately a very poor specimen.”[19] Since

that date British big-game shots, including the most famous of their

generation, have visited these remote upland valleys in pursuit of this

king of sheep.

When I actually visited the Pamirs I found that some of the

descriptions I had read did not convey a clear impression on all

points. Perhaps my chief disappointment was the aridity of the country,

for, travelling in June and July, I had expected to find rich meadows

decked with Alpine flowers. On the contrary, nowhere did I see anything

but the scantiest pasturage, and it remains a subject of wonder that

the huge _Ovis poli_ can find nourishment in such a barren land. A

second point which struck me was that the Pamirs were for the most part

open and easy to traverse, and the mountains, although actually rising

very high above sea-level, appeared almost insignificant when viewed

from the high altitude at which we were travelling. The one point on

which there was no mistake was the severity of the weather.

Starting from Kashgar in considerable heat on June 7, we crossed the

Katta Dawan twelve days later in equally considerable cold, and from

its crest, at an elevation of 15,250 feet, the Pamirs lay before us.

To the north the Trans-Alai range rose up in snow-covered peaks,

while almost at our feet a corner of the Great Karakul, the largest

lake of the Pamirs, was visible. Descending into the valley from the

storm-swept pass, I felt very happy that I had at last reached the

haunt of the _Ovis poli_, and my elation was increased by seeing three

small herds of females grazing on the mountain side as we passed down

the valley to our camp near the lake.

The following morning I started off to try for game, feeling as keen

and excited as I had done during my first shooting expedition more

than twenty-five years ago, when everything was “fair and new.” I had

fortunately secured the services of a good _shikari_, by name Nadir,

who has already been mentioned. He had travelled with other Englishmen

and quite grasped our methods of stalking, which utterly puzzle an

untutored Kirghiz. He was indeed a treasure; for, besides being a good

stalker, he understood how to manage the Kirghiz, who worked willingly

under him.

Followed by some ponies carrying bedding and food, we rode across the

level steppe to the foot-hills. By good luck we sighted a herd of six

or eight four-year old rams, which were grazing about a mile off to our

right, and before very long we saw their horns moving over a low ridge

about 400 yards away. I jumped off and, running up to the ridge, had an

easy shot and bagged my first _Ovis poli_. Though the head was a small

one, such a start was of good omen for the future.

We afterwards examined the ground for miles, but saw no tracks of big

rams; so we bivouacked in the hills and returned to camp the following

day, satisfied that the local _shikari_ was speaking the truth when he

explained that the veterans visited the range only in winter. There

was, indeed, no chance of a big head anywhere near the Karakul, and as

sport was merely a pleasant incident of the journey, not its object, we

marched on to Pamirsky Post.

[Illustration: _OVIS POLI_--THE 51-INCH HEAD. _Page 328._]

From this centre we were making for Sarikol, and, owing to it being

midsummer, when the Kirghiz were grazing their flocks all over the

country, the prospects of bagging a good head appeared to be small.

Nadir, however, knew of a _nullah_ to the south, and we determined

to give it a trial, and therefore made for the Uchak Valley, where we

camped at an elevation of 13,500 feet, some miles from the stalking

ground, for the sake of obtaining supplies and water. It was bitterly

cold at night, but we started off for our day’s stalking by 4 A.M.,

warmly wrapped up and riding the invaluable yak. Walking at these

high altitudes is trying to the heart, especially to the middle-aged,

and I decided, wisely I think, to save myself as far as possible. We

gradually made our way up the open but stony valley towards the skirt

of the main range, riding up the side of the mountain almost to the

snow line, where we dismounted to spy. The bare, open hillside was

littered with large and small boulders; there was little grass and no

cover to speak of; so I did not feel hopeful.

Fortune, however, was kind, and before very long a herd headed by a

really fine ram was sighted, slowly grazing its way uphill. For a long

while we watched our quarry, as at one time it bore away from us and

then again turned in our direction, until we finally saw that its line

lay about a mile from where we were in hiding. The stalk consisted

mainly in crawling round boulders; but although the wind was favourable

we were seen before we approached within the usual range for a shot, as

was indeed inevitable owing to lack of cover.

The only course left was to rely on my telescopic sight and risk a long

shot. But I could not see the quarry either from a lying or from a

sitting position, owing to the boulders, and at the distance a standing

shot would have been folly. Accordingly I told Nadir to bend down and,

using his shoulder as a rest, was able to aim steadily at the big ram,

which, after stopping for a moment to gaze at us, was moving off at a

slow pace. My _shikari_ was as steady as a rock, and, thanks to this,

I was able to hit the ram through the heart. It was a most fortunate

shot; for the distance was paced out at 300 yards.

Nadir and the Kirghiz, wild with excitement, raced off to the fallen

ram, while I, equally elated but far less active, slowly followed them,

panting for breath when I attempted to run. It was indeed a lucky day,

as the ram was a fine six-year-old specimen, standing as high as a

small mule, and with a perfect pair of horns measuring 51 inches.

On the following day I wounded a second ram in the shoulder by another

long shot, and tracked it until nightfall, leaving it when we were

about five miles from camp. Early the next morning we sighted it again

near the foot of a precipitous hill on a wide open plain where it had

joined some ewes. Stalking was out of the question, as concealment

was impossible, and we felt depressed until the Kirghiz told us that

a few miles off there was a man, the owner of two hunting dogs who

would run down the wounded quarry. In time he appeared on the scene

and handed over his dogs to the Kirghiz _shikari_, while I sat down

to watch. The Kirghiz showed great skill in separating the ram from

the ewes, and when the dogs were let loose he ran at their heels at

a remarkable pace. The ram went very fast at first, but then circled

and doubled, threatening the dogs at times. But its efforts to escape

were vain, and after a five minutes’ run the noble quarry was pulled

down and the _shikari_ cut its throat. The scramble down to the

valley was very steep and long, but my yak was equal to it, and I was

interested in watching some snowcock, which kept flying past us in

alarm, displaying their striking plumage to great advantage. When we

reached the bottom of the hill we found the ram to be a fine head, but

smaller than the one shot on the first day, which, according to our

information, was the biggest in that area, although not a first-class

head.

[Illustration: HUNTING-DOGS WITH KIRGHIZ OWNER. _Page 330._]

The dogs were not fed until they were rested, and to my surprise they

refused a piece of bread; but it was explained to me that bread was

such a delicacy among the Kirghiz that a dog never had a chance of

tasting it and so did not know what it was!

Their owner, like all the Kirghiz I met, was friendly and gave me his

views on life. He laid down emphatically that no man of substance could

be comfortable without four wives, and on my challenging this statement

he was quite contemptuous and said that the Prophet, on Him be Peace,

gave his commandments wisely when he permitted Moslems to marry four

helpmates, as two were needed to milk the yaks and the sheep, a third

to do the cooking and a fourth to sew and weave carpets. He ended up by

saying, “Praise be to Allah! I have four obedient wives, who spend all

their days in trying to please me!”

On the way home we passed a number of fine skulls lying about below a

bluff which the Kirghiz referred to as a “cemetery.” They said that the

_Ovis poli_ are hunted in the snow by packs of wolves and take refuge

on such steep places, where they are surrounded. In spite of their huge

horns the rams apparently never attempt to defend themselves, and as

their joints, heated by the pursuit, stiffen from the cold, they fall

an easy prey to their enemies.

* * * * *

As I sit at home surrounded by trophies gained in the plains of India,

in Kashmir, in Ladak, in Persia and finally in the Pamirs, each head

evokes pleasing memories of the stalk and recalls some of the happiest

days of my life. On no expedition does the golden haze lie deeper than

on the successful stalking of the great sheep of Marco Polo, in the

remote upland valleys of the “Roof of the World.”

INDEX

Aba Bakr, 268

Abdalis, 242

Abu Ali bin Sina (Avicenna), 318

Abu Nasr, 260

Achmet, 22, 24, 27, 40-41, 46

Afghanistan, Amir of: China and, 272;

Wakhan awarded to, 294

Afghanistan, trade with, 247

Afghans in Kashgar, 57

Afrasiab, Mt., 156

Agha Khan, the, 155, 157, 177

Agriculture in Chinese Turkestan, 300-307

Agri Su, shrine, 181

Ahmad Khan, Amir, 272

_Akhois_, 114-17, 125, 146, 149

Ak Langar, 203, 220

Ak Masjid taken, 276, 282

_Aksakals_, 105, 273;

of Guma, 197-8;

of Sarikol, 153, 157

Aksu, 240, 266, 280, 292, 295

_Ak Taulin_, 269, 270

_Ak-Yul-luk_ ceremony, 312

Alai range, 31

Ali Aralan, 93-5, 261

Almaligh, 265

_Alti Shahr_, 273

_Ambans_, Chinese, 126, 194, 198, 242, 279

_Amin-ul-Muminin_, 284

Amundsen, Captain, 4

Amursana, 271

Andijan, 21, 245, 272, 274, 299, 301

Apak, _Hazrat_, 68-70, 270-71, 312

Arabs, conquests by, 256-8

Architecture of Chinese Turkestan, 84-5

_Argon_, 117, 125

_Arslan_ Khans, 259

Aryans of Sarikol, 131, 153, 155, 157-60, 308

_Atalik Ghazi_, 279

Ata-ul-Vali, _Shaykh_, 181

Austrian prisoners, 19

Avicenna, 318

Badakshan, 145, 247, 272, 278

Badakshani horses, 28, 53, 114, 176-177, 194, 227-8, 247

Badrudin, _Khan Sahib_, 209-10, 212, 216-20

Bag-mouth rat, 88

_Baigu_, game of, 150-51, 165

Baths, Russian, 13-14

Beg Kuli Beg, 292

_Begs_, 25, 27, 92, 126-7, 139, 164-5;

of Tashmalik, 107, 109;

official powers of, 243-5

Bergen, 4-5

Besitun, Mt., 156

Bibi Anna, shrine of, 92-3

Bielka, 54, 230

Birds of Chinese Turkestan, 87-8, 161, 182, 221

Bishbaligh, 259

Black Mountaineers, 269

Bohlin, Mr., 51, 55, 65, 66, 72, 87, 88, 105, 171, 173

Bokhara, 269, 274, 279, 282-3

“Braiding of the hair” ceremony, 274, 313-14

Bridge of Gez River, 110-11

Britain and Chinese Turkestan, 293-4, 298;

Yakub Beg and, 285-290

Brownie, 54, 230

Buchanan, Lady Georgina, 10

Buddhism, 94, 153, 217-19, 241, 310;

in China, 252-3

Buddhist ruins, 84-5, 217-19

Buffer states, Chinese, 298

Bulunkul, Lake, 111, 165

Buzurg Khan, 277, 279

Camels, 15, 28, 79, 109, 112, 169, 302-3

Caravans, 25, 28, 89, 176

Carpets, 82, 116, 146-7, 213

Carts, native, 26, 176

_Chachbagh_ ceremony, 313-14

Chagatai, 265, 266

Chang Kien, 252

Chapman, Captain, 287

Chengiz Khan, 263-5

Chernaieff, General, 277

Chightam, 280-81

Childbirth ceremonies, 314-15

Children, 315-16

China: buffer states of, 298;

travel in, 102

Chinese Turkestan and, 55, 97, 186, 242-5;

during Revolution, 294-9;

struggle for suzerainty, 67, 249-53, 255-6, 257-8, 271-4;

Yakub Beg and, 70-71, 277-81, 290-93

Chinese: administration, 55, 97, 186, 242-5;

authorities, 37, 186, 242-5;

banquets, 72-3, 76-8, 199;

burial customs, 71-72;

cemetery, 70-72;

farmers, 301-2;

finger-nails, 73,96-7, 99;

foot-mutilation, 74-5;

forced labour, 55, 306;

games, 78;

habits unhealthy, 96-7, 99;

_hashish_ prohibited by, 172;

jade, 215-17;

kindness to animals, 100-101;

lying, 100;

marriage, 65, 99-100;

missionaries persecuted by, 52;

soldiers, 74, 95-6;

travellers, 28;

veneration for age, 76

Chinese Turkestan: administration, 55, 97, 186, 242-5;

agriculture, 300-307;

art, 82-4;

boundaries, 235-6;

climate, 56, 239-40;

deserts, 236-8;

flora, 87, 128, 149-50, 169, 210;

halting-places, 35;

hospitality, 102;

justice, 245;

loess formation, 36, 56-7, 86, 91;

marriage, 189;

population, 240-42, 308-10;

religions, 94, 153, 217-19, 241-2, 310;

rivers, 258-9;

road-making, 228;

taxes, 243-4, 306;

trade, 245-7, 289

history of: Chinese rule, 67, 70-71, 249-53, 255-6, 257-8, 271-4,

277-81, 290-93, 294-9;

Huns and Yue-chi, 249, 252-3;

Juan Juan, 254;

Western Turks, 254-5;

Arabs and Tibetans, 255-6, 257-8;

Uighurs, 258-9;

Turks, 260-62;

Chengiz Khan, Timur, Tamerlane, 263-8;

Chagatai Khans, 267-9;

Zungars, 270-71;

Khojas, 269, 270, 272-274, 278;

Yakub Beg, 70-71, 276-81, 290-4;

Britain and Russia, 275-6, 282-6, 293-4, 299

_Chini Bagh_, 39-40, 81

Chitral occupied, 293

Christian tribes, 263-4

Christianity in Chinese Turkestan, 190;

Nestorian, 94, 256, 323

Circumcision, 315-16

Cobbold, Captain, 134

Consulate premises, 39-40, 81, 170-71

Coronation Chapel, Moscow, 11

_Corvée_ system, 55, 306

Cossacks in Kashgar, 46, 52, 79-80, 81, 297-8;

in Pamirs, 133, 135, 140, 141-3;

Kirghiz descended from, 240

Croquet, 46

Czaplicka, Miss, 120

Dalai Lama, 270

Dalgleish, 223

Dancing, 323

Daoud _Akhun_, 41, 50, 160, 165, 168, 171, 176

Deasy, Captain, 40, 77

Death ceremonies, 316-17

Deserts, 175, 236-8

Devanchi Pass, 291

Divorce in Chinese Turkestan, 65, 212

Dixon, E. W., 326

Dogs, pariah, 101

Donkeys, Kashgari, 89, 101, 176, 302

Dughlat tribe, 265, 267-8

Dulanis, 223, 225, 241, 281, 323

_Dumba_, 26, 44

Dunmore, Lord, 111, 143, 230

Eagles, hunting with, 182, 222

Education in Kashgar, 316

Elburz Range, 136

Embroidery, 83

English Hospital in Petrograd, 10

Etherton, Lieutenant, 184

Evil eye, charms against, 319

Fa-hien, 217, 219, 253

Falconer of the Mehtar of Chitral, 177

Falconry, 177-8

Ferhad, 156

Finger-nails, Chinese, 73, 96-7, 99

Finland, 8-9

Fish, poisonous, 43;

Kirghiz fishing, 152-3

Flax cultivation, 172-3

Flora:

of Chinese Turkestan, 87, 128, 149-50, 169, 210;

of Pamirs, 145-6

Forsyth mission, 287-9

“Four Garrisons,” 255-6

Freshfield, Mr. Douglas, 146

Games:

Chinese, 78;

Kashgari, 323;

Kirghiz, 122, 150-51, 165

German prisoners, 19

Gez River, 107-11, 166

Gilgit occupied, 293

Goat game, 122, 150-51, 165

Gobi, the, 175, 236, 258, 290

Goez, Benedict, 270

Goitre:

in Khotan, 212;

in Yarkand, 184-5, 192

Gordon, Sir Thomas, 155, 287, 289

Governor of Kashgar, lunch given by, 72-6;

of Tashkurghan, 155;

of Yangi Shahr, 97, 99

Great Karakul Lake, 130, 132, 134, 327-8

Grenard, 242, 261, 317

Grombohevsky, Captain, 293

Guchluk, 262, 264

_Gul Bagh_, 71

Guma, 197-9

_Gur Khan_, 261, 262

Haidar, _Mirza_, 240, 266 (_note_), 268

Hakim Khan Torah, 292

Haldan Bokosha, Khan, 270

Han dynasty, 249-50

Hasan Boghra Khan, 260-61

Hasan, _Sayyid Khoja_, 269

_Hashish_, 172, 185

Hawks, 87-8;

white, 177-8

Haydon, Mr., 141

Hayward, 287

_Hazrat_ Apak, 68-70, 93, 270-71, 312

Hemp, 246

Hindus:

in Kargalik, 194;

in Yarkand, 183, 185, 186

Hiong-Nu tribe, 249, 254

Hiuen Tsiang, 129, 196, 197, 207, 217, 237, 251, 254

Hoa tribe, 254

Höegberg, Dr., 52, 184, 190;

Mrs., 189, 190

Holdich, Sir Thomas, 129

Horsemanship:

Cossack, 79-80;

Kashgari, 80, 99

Horses:

Badakshani, 28, 53, 114, 176-7, 194, 227-8, 247;

Kalmuck, 302;

treatment of, 151-2

Hospidset Hotel, 4

Howorth, Sir Henry, 270

_Hsien Yin_ or Sub-Governor, 242

Hsin-Chiang, Chinese name for Chinese Turkestan, 235, 271

Humayun, 112, 175

Huns, 249-50, 252, 254;

White, 253-4

_Id_ festival, 229

Iftikhar Ahmad, _Khan Sahib_, 105, 158, 168, 175, 196, 224

Ilak Khans, 258, 261

Ilohi, native name for Khotan, 212

Ili, 265, 270, 271, 272, 280, 294

Ili Tartar General, 243

India:

trade with, 246;

Yue-chi invade, 249, 252

Indian Empire and Yakub Beg, 286-290

Indians in Chinese Turkestan, 183, 185, 186, 194

Insects of Turkestan, 88-9, 107, 171

Intermarriage, results of, 313

Irkeshtam, 33, 293

Isa _Haji_, 303-7

Isan Bughs, 265

Ishan Khan _Khoja_, 273

Islam:

rise of, 256, 260-61, 262;

supplants Buddhism, 266, 269, 293, 310

Issak Boulak, 161

Jade of Khotan, 215-17, 270

Jafar Bai, 26-7, 30, 40-41, 43, 50, 77, 95, 108, 112, 117-18, 152,

160, 165, 173, 175, 183, 195, 204, 222, 228

Jahangir, 267, 272

Jam-i-Taghai-Agri-Su, 181

Johnson, Mr., 286

Juan Juan, 254

Justice in Chinese Turkestan, 245

Justinian, Emperor, 214

Kalmuck tribe, 270;

horses of, 302

Kamar-u-Din, 267

Kanishka, 252

Kan Ying, 251

_Kaptar Mazzar_, 205-7

Karakash River, 209

Kara Khitai dynasty, 261, 262

Kara Koram, 236, 246

Karakoram, capital of Uighurs, 259

Karakul Lake, Great, 130, 132, 134, 327-8;

Little, 164

Karashahr, 241, 255, 280, 292;

horses, 302

_Kara Taulin_, 269

Kargalik, 193-4, 288

Karungi, 7-9

Kashgar:

agriculture, 170, 172, 301-2, 303-7;

bazar, 57-63;

birds, 87-8;

British mission at, 288-9;

Buddhist ruins, 84-85;

cemetery, 68-9;

childbirth, 314-15;

Chinese Republic, disturbances in, 295-8;

climate, 56, 230-31, 239-40;

crops, 170, 172, 301-2;

death ceremonies, 316-17;

donkeys, 89, 101, 302;

education, 316;

farmers, 303-7;

food available in, 43-4;

fruit, 170, 179-80, 301;

handicrafts, 82-4;

insects, 88-9, 107, 171;

laundry difficulties in, 45-6;

marriage and divorce, 64-5, 310-13;

medical science in, 317-21;

millers, 90;

Oasis, 37, 54-5, 240, 300-302;

population, 245-246;

prices, 44-5;

revenue, 244;

Russian colony in, 46-51, 79-84, 105;

sandstorms, 56, 239-40;

shrines, 92-5, 320;

sunsets, 91-2, 231;

Swedish missionaries, 37, 44, 51-3;

trade, 245;

trees, 86-7;

wall, 67-8;

winter in, 280-81

history of:

Huns drive Yue-chi from, 249;

Pan Chao conquers, 66-7, 250-51;

Yue-chi regain, 252, 253;

Buddhism reaches, 253;

China recovers, 255;

one of “Four Garrisons,” 255, 257;

Christianity and Zoroastrianism in, 256;

Arab raids reach, 257;

Ali Arslan defeated, 94, 261;

Turkish rule, 261;

Sadi visits, 262;

Marco Polo in, 265;

Timur’s capital, 266;

under Dughlat Amirs, 267-8;

_Khojas_ established in, 269;

_Hazrat_ Apak rules, 68, 270-71;

Chinese masters of, 271-3;

attempts of _Khojas_ to regain, 272, 273-4, 277;

Yakub Beg rules, 277-8, 279-91;

Russian designs on, 283, 285;

British mission in, 287-90;

Chinese overthrow Yakub Beg, 97, 290-92;

Revolutionary disturbances in, 295-8

Kashgari:

costumes, 29, 58-9, 83, 193;

cruelty to animals, 100-101;

dirtiness, 44;

farmers, 303-7;

games, 323;

health, 99, 173;

horsemanship, 80, 99;

lying, 100;

medical mission and, 52-53;

music, 63-4, 323;

peasants, 60;

pleasure expeditions, 92, 95;

religious observances, 68-9, 92, 95, 314-315;

superstitions, 69, 318-21;

women, 58-61, 64-5, 83, 92-3, 122, 310-15;

workmen, 29, 31, 58

Kashmir, 269;

Maharaja of, 293

Kasia Mountains, 236

Katta Dawan, 128-31, 133, 327

_Katta Tura_, 273

Kaufmann, General, 18, 285

Kaufmann, Mt., 134

Kaulbars, Baron, 284

_Kazis_, 243, 245

Keen Lung, Emperor, 271

Keraits, 263

Khanates of the Sir Darya, 275, 283, 299

Khargush Pamir, 134-9

Khiva, 275

_Khojas_, 269, 270-71, 272-3, 274, 277-8, 280

Khokand, 20-21;

submits to China, 272, 273;

Russian advance on, 276, 277, 279;

Russian rule established, 282, 283, 299;

revolt, 283, 285

Khotan:

ancient cities of, 217-19;

carpets, 82, 116, 146-7, 213;

history, 94, 253, 255, 261, 279, 286, 292;

jade, 215-17;

oasis, 323;

population, 240, 246;

products, 213-17, 246;

women, 211-12

journey to:

the caravan, 175-8;

Yangi Hissar, 178, 180;

Yarkand, 182-90;

Posgam, 192-3;

crossing the desert, 195-7, 201-208;

arrival, 209-11;

Merket, 221-5;

return to Kashgar, 225-9

Khudadad, Amir, 268

Khudayar Khan, 276, 277

Kirghiz, 240-41, 308;

_akhois_, 30, 114-17, 125, 146, 149;

character and customs, 113-14, 118, 123-5, 164-5, 331;

features, 57, 113;

fishing, 152-3;

goat game, 122, 150-51, 165;

headgear, 25, 118, 133, 148;

hunter, 330-31;

Karakoram captured by, 259;

marriages, 119-22, 323;

ponies, 302;

religion and superstition, 125, 163;

submit to China, 272;

women, 23, 114, 118-22, 133

Kizil Art, 236

Kizil Su River, 35, 55, 238

Korla, 292

_Koumiss_, 122

Kucha, 280, 292

Kuen-lun range, 205, 236

Kuli, 165

Kulja, 271, 293

Kungur, Mt., 40, 164

Kuntigmas, 166

Kuropatkin, 291

_Kutass_ riding, 162-4, 166-8

Kutayba ibn Muslim, 257

_Kvass_, 9

Labour, forced, 55, 306

Ladak, 268, 269, 286

Lalmoi marsh, 238

_Lapis lazuli_, 247

Leh route to India, 246

Little, Mrs. Archibald, 75

Littledale, Mrs. St. George, 209

Little Lake Karakul, 164

Liu-Kin-tang, 97-8

Loess formations, 36, 56-7, 86, 91

Macartney, Lady, 38-39, 45, 54

Macartney, Sir George, 3, 37, 52, 78, 102, 231, 298

_Makhdum-i-Azam_, 269

Manichaeism, 259

Maralbashi, 238, 239

Marmots, 136, 144

Marriage:

Chinese, 65, 189;

Kashgar, 64-5, 310-13;

Khotan, 212;

Kirghiz, 119-22, 323

Master of the Horse, 176-7

_Mazzars_, 92-5, 205-7

Medical missionaries attacked, 51-2

Medicine in Kashgar, system of, 317-21

Melons, 179-80

Merket, 221-5, 241

Meshed, 51, 325

Mestchersky, Prince, 46, 48;

Princess, 46, 48, 75, 79, 80

Metal-work, 83

Millers, 90

_Ming Bashis_, 25, 141, 144-5, 243

Miniol, 37, 170

Mithradates II., 249-50

Moghulistan, 235, 265, 267

Mohamed of Khwarazm (Khiva), 262

Mongols:

of Karashahr, 241;

races of, in Chinese Turkestan, 308;

rise of, 263-5;

Tombs of the, 95

Mon Wang, 249

Moscow, 11

Moslems deported, 271, 272, 273;

rebellions of, 280

Mountain sickness, 138, 149, 168

_Muezzins_, 91

_Mullas_, 52, 58, 61, 173

Murghab River, 130, 141

Mussalman Kuli, 276, 277

Muztagh Ata, 40, 111, 148, 160, 163, 164, 166, 180, 231

Nadir, the huntsman, 108, 117, 119, 131-2;

his sheep taken by wolves, 124-5;

stalking _ovis poli_, 133, 135, 140-41, 328-30;

at home in Tashkurghan, 153, 156-7

Naiman tribe, 264

Narin, Fort, 283

Nestorian Christianity, 94, 256, 323

Niaz Hakim Beg, 291

Nomad tribes, 240-41, 243

Norwegians, 4-5

Oases, 240, 301-2, 306

Opal, 169-70

Opium, 247

Ordam-Padshah, 94, 261

Oriental slackness, 40, 42

Osh, 23-6

_Ovis ammon_, 326

_Ovis poli_:

horns, 143, 326;

stalking, 131, 135, 146, 324-32

Pamirs:

British mission in, 289;

Russian authority in, 293-4, 299, 325

travel in:

preparations, 103-5;

journey begun, 105-7;

Gez River crossing, 107-11, 166;

daily routine, 112-13;

among the Kirghiz, 113-27;

Katta Dawan crossed, 129-31, 133, 327;

Karakul Lake, 130, 132, 134, 327;

_ovis poli_ stalking, 133, 135, 327-8;

Khargush Pamir, 134-9;

fossils found, 141;

Pamirsky Post, 141-3, 328;

Uchak Valley, stalking in, 144, 329-31;

with the Sarikoli, 148-60;

Ulughat Pass, 166-8

Pamirsky Post, 139, 141-3, 328

Pan Ghao, General, 67, 250-51

Paper manufacture, 198

Parthia, Chinese missions to, 249, 251

Persia:

agriculture, 301;

character of people, 190;

China and, 253, 256;

deserts, 236

Peter the Great, 270

Petrograd, 3, 9-10

Philip of France, 178

Pigeon Shrine, 205-7

Polo, Marco, 129, 196, 205, 265, 324-5

Posgam, 192-3

_Potais_, 178-9, 196, 204

Pottery, 82

Prester John, 264

Przemyzl, capture of, 17

Ptolemy, 236

Races of Chinese Turkestan, 308

Rainfall, 239, 300

Ramazan, fast of, 125, 165, 171, 173-4

Raquette, Dr., 51-2

Rashid Khan, 269

Rémusat, 212, 215, 219

Revenue system, 243-4, 306

Revolution, Chinese, 294-9

Roads in Turkestan, 25, 27, 30-32, 228

Roche, Major, 143

Romanoff, M., 17, 81-2, 87

Russia, journey through, 9-15;

peasants, 14;

soldiers, 9, 10, 14;

the steppes, 15, 16, 22;

trains, 6, 13, 15, 17

policy of:

Sir Daria entered, 275-6;

hostilities with Khokand, 276, 277, 282, 283;

Turkestan province formed, 276;

Ili province occupied, 280;

Yakub Beg and, 282-6, 290, 291, 292;

treaty with Chinese, 293;

Pamir delimitation, 293-4;

troops in Kashgar, 297-8;

territories acquired, 299;

trade with, 245, 246, 247, 284

Russians:

colony in Kashgar, 46-51, 79-81, 105;

devotion, 11-12;

hospitality, 24, 47-9;

outposts in Pamirs, 133-5, 140, 141-3, 154;

primitive customs, 33-5;

Sarts and, 18, 19, 21

Russian Turkestan, journey through, 17-35

Sadi, 262

Sadik Beg, 277, 278

Safdar Ali Khan, 187

Said, Sultan, 268

Sakas, 249

Samara, 13-14

Samarkand, 216, 269

Sandstorms, 56, 239-40

Sanjar, Sultan, 262

Sarikol annexed, 280

Sarikolis, 131, 149, 153, 155, 157-160, 177, 308, 323

Sarts, 18-21

Satok Boghra Khan, 260

Sattur, 41-3, 50, 88, 113, 139, 158, 160-61, 166, 171, 172, 176

_Sayyids_, 92

Schlagintweit, Adolph, 274, 286

Semirechia, 299

Shah Murad Khan, 277

Shah Rukh, 268

Shakir Padshah, _Imam_, 206

Shamshir, 120-21

Shaw, Robert, 286-7

Sheep:

fat-tailed, 26, 44, 303;

Osh district, 26,44;

Yarkand, 185-6;

wolves and, 114, 124-5, 331;

wild, of Marco Polo, 131, 143, 146, 324-32

Shirin, 156

Shrines, 68-72, 92-5, 205-7, 310, 320

_Sigm_ shrine, 320

Silk industry of Khotan, 213-15

Sir Daria, the, 20, 275-6

Snakes, 88

Snow-throwing custom, 321-2

Spiders, 88-9

Stein, Sir Aurel:

researches of, 76, 84, 94, 98, 107, 218-19, 242, 259;

returns from desert, 101-2;

helps in Pamir preparations, 105, 106;

bound for Persia, 166

Steppes, 15-16, 22

Stockholm, 5

“Stone Sheep-folds,” 114

Sturgeon, 8

Subashi, 162

Superstitions of Kashgari, 69, 318-320

Swedes, 5, 7-8

Swedish missionaries, 37, 44, 51, 52-53, 180, 184, 188-9, 190

Tagharma, 149, 152, 153

Taghdumbash Pamir, 155

Taghliks, 241

Taiping rebellion, 279-80

Tajiks, 242

Takla Makan desert, 84, 175, 195-7, 201-8, 236

Tamerlane, 216, 266-8

Tang dynasty, 255

_Taotai_ of Kashgar, 295-6

_Taoyin_, or Governor, 242, 244

Tarantchis, 272, 280

Tarikh-i-Rashidi, 266

Tashkent, 18-20, 276, 277, 282;

fruit, 301

Tashkurghan, 149, 153-5, 177

Tashmalik oasis, 106-7

Taxes in Chinese Turkestan, 243-4, 306

Temple of Liu-Kin-tang, 97-8;

of Pan Ghao, 67

Terek Dawan, 30-32, 36, 273

_Thum_ of Hunza, the, 187

Tian Shan, the, 25-37, 291

Tibetan invasion, 255, 257-8

_Tims_, 84

Tiznaf River, 192

_Togkrak_ tree, 225

Toghril, 263-4

Tokharistan, 252

Tombs of the Mongols, 95

Tora, _Haji_, 284

Torgut Mongols, 270-71

Tornea, 9

Trade of Chinese Turkestan, 245-7, 289

Trains, Scandinavian and Russian, 6, 13, 15, 17

Trans-Alai range, 134, 327

Treaty of St. Petersburg, 293

Trotter, Capt., 287, 326

Tsar’s prohibition edict, 9, 24, 47

Tse Wang Rabdan, 270

Tughluk Timur, 265-6

Tuman Su River, 55, 66

Tunganis, 200, 241-2, 271, 278-9, 280-81, 295

Turfan, 235, 250, 253, 255, 260, 280, 291

Turkestan, city of, 17

Turkey and Yakub Beg, 284-5

Turki:

farriers, 62;

language, 261;

uncleanliness, 43

Turks:

Chinese Turkestan under, 261;

Northern, 255;

Western, empire of, 254, 255

Uchak Valley: _ovis poli_ stalking in, 144, 329-31

Uighurs, 253, 258-9, 308

Ulughat Pass, 166-8

Urumchi, 242, 245, 259, 280, 290;

Chinese Revolution in, 294-5, 297-8

Uzbegs, 268

Victoria, Queen, 289

Vyborg, 9

Wakhan incident, 145, 293-4

Wakhijir pass, 247

Wali Khan _Khoja_, 273-4, 286

Wang Khan, the, 264

Whistling, 12, 64

White Huns, 253-4

White Mountaineers, 269

Wolves, 114, 124-5, 331

Wood, Lieutenant, 129, 143, 325

Women:

Chinese, 74, 75, 99-100;

Dulani, 223, 226-6;

Kashgari, 58-61, 64-65, 83, 92-3, 122, 310-15;

Khotan, 211-12, 253;

Kirghiz, 23, 114, 118-22, 133;

Moslem, 26, 40, 64-5, 92-3, 264-5;

Persian, 61;

Russian peasant, 14;

Sarikoli, 159;

Takla Makan, 200;

Tashkent, 20, 22;

Yarkandi, 187-9

Wu Kung, 258

Yagello, Colonel, 144, 145

Yaks, 123-4, 143;

riding, 162-4, 166-8

Yakub Beg:

army of, 281-2;

Britain and, 286-90;

Buddhist monuments destroyed by, 67, 84;

conquests of, 67, 71, 278-281;

fort of, 213;

garden belonging to, 188;

overthrown by Chinese, 58, 70, 290-92;

rest-houses built by, 181;

Russia’s relations with, 282-6;

tomb destroyed, 70

Yangi Hissar, 178, 180, 278

Yangi Shahr, 95-9, 240

Yarkand:

arrival at, 182-4;

bazars, 185-7;

Goez in, 270;

goitre, 184-5, 192;

horses, 302;

_Khojas_ beaten at, 273;

mission colony, 188-9;

oasis, 181, 191;

population, 240, 246;

Shaw at, 286-7;

women, 187-9;

Yakub Beg captures, 278-9

Yarkand River, 225, 226, 238, 239

Yelui Tashi, 261

Yezdigird III., 256

Yezid, 242

Yonoff, Colonel, 293-4

Yotkan, 218-19

Younghusband, Sir Francis, 136, 236, 293-4, 325

Yuan-Shih-Kai, 295-6

Yue-chi, or Indo-Scythians, 249, 250-53

Yurungkash River, 217

_Yuz Bashis_, 243

Zarafshan or Yarkand River, 238

Zawa oasis, 206, 208, 219-20

Zoroastrianism, 155, 256

Zungars, 270-71

THE END

_Printed by_ R. & R. CLARK, LIMITED, _Edinburgh_.

[Illustration: MAP to illustrate AUTHORS’ ROUTES.]

FOOTNOTES:

[1] Tashkent, Kashgar, Cossacks.

[2] The monarch in question was actually Khusru Parviz.

[3] _Iusce_ is _Yu-shih_ or Jade stone.

[4] To offer tea is a symbol of apology.

[5] _Si-Yu-Ki_, by S. Beal, ii. pp. 324, 325.

[6] _Tarikh-i-Rashidi_, p. 303.

[7] _La Haute Asie_, ii. 308.

[8] Most of these terms are new, the old titles having been abolished

after the Revolution.

[9] There is considerable uncertainty about this date, which good

authorities give as some decades earlier.

[10] _Cathay and the Way Thither_, vol. i. p. 101 (Cordier edition).

[11] Boghra signifies a male camel--names of animals being used by

Turks as tribal names. It is an interesting form of totemism; _vide_

“La Légende de Satok Boghra et l’histoire,” _Journ. Asiat._, Jan.-Fév.

1900, pp. 24 _et seq._

[12] This province generally signifies the country lying to the north

of the Tian Shan, but, as used in the text, the term includes the whole

of the eastern division of the _Khanate_.

[13] The writer was _Mirza_ Haider, Gurkhan, who wrote a history of

his ancestors, and also graphically described the events in which he

sometimes played a leading part.

[14] “Journey to Ilchi Khotan (1866),” _J.R.G.S._ vol. 37 (1867).

[15] The text of the treaty is given in _The Life of Yakub Beg_, by D.

G. Boulger.

[16] _Zir_ is the mark for the sound “i,” and _zabar_ for the sound

“a”; their inclusion is apparently unmeaning.

[17] Vide _The Eastern Turkestan Dialect_, by G. Raquette.

[18] Vide _The Sheep and its Cousins_, by the late R. Lydekker, who

termed the _poli_, _Ovis ammon poli_, and the _karelini_, _Ovis ammon

littledalei_.

[19] “The Amir Yakub Khan and Eastern Turkestan in Mid-Nineteenth

Century,” by Colonel Sir Henry Trotter, K.C.M.G., C.B. (_Journal of the

Central Asian Society_, vol. iv., 1917, Part IV.).

Transcriber's Notes:

Italics are shown thus: _sloping_.

The Index entry for Chinese Turkestan: taxes, has been corrected

to page 306 from page 366 which does not exist.

Variations in spelling and hyphenation are retained.

Perceived typographical errors have been changed.

Through deserts and oases of central Asia · 第 12 / 12 章