BOOK I.

FROM OUR DEPARTURE FROM ENGLAND, TO LEAVING THE SOCIETY ISLES, THE FIRST

TIME.

CHAP. I.

PASSAGE FROM DEPTFORD TO THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE, WITH AN ACCOUNT OF

SEVERAL INCIDENTS THAT HAPPENED BY THE WAY, AND TRANSACTIONS THERE.

I sailed from Deptford, April 9th, 1772, but got no farther than

Woolwich; where I was detained by easterly winds till the 22d, when the

ship fell down to Long Reach, and the next day was joined by the

Adventure. Here both ships received on board their powder, guns,

gunner’s-stores, and marines.

On the 10th of May we left Long Reach with orders to touch at Plymouth;

but in plying down the river, the Resolution was found to be very crank,

which made it necessary to put into Sheerness, in order to remove this

evil, by making some alterations in her upper works. These the officers

of the yard were ordered to take in hand immediately; and Lord Sandwich

and Sir Hugh Palliser came down to see them executed in such a manner as

might effectually answer the purpose intended.

On the 22d of June the ship was again completed for sea, when I sailed

from Sheerness; and on the 3d of July, joined the Adventure in Plymouth

Sound. The evening before, we met, off the Sound, Lord Sandwich, in the

Augusta yacht, (who was on his return from visiting the several

dock-yards,) with the Glory frigate and Hazard sloop. We saluted his

Lordship with seventeen guns; and soon after he and Sir Hugh Palliser

gave us the last mark of the very great attention they had paid to this

equipment, by coming on board, to satisfy themselves that every thing

was done to my wish, and that the ship was found to answer to my

satisfaction.

At Plymouth I received my instructions, dated the 25th of June,

directing me to take under my command the Adventure; to make the best of

my way to the island of Madeira, there to take in a supply of wine, and

then proceed to the Cape of Good Hope, where I was to refresh the ships’

companies, and take on board such provisions and necessaries as I might

stand in need of. After leaving the Cape of Good Hope, I was to proceed

to the southward, and endeavour to fall in with Cape Circumcision, which

was said by Monsieur Bouvet to lie in the latitude of 54° south, and in

about 11° 20ʹ east longitude from Greenwich. If I discovered this Cape,

I was to satisfy myself whether it was a part of the continent, which

had so much engaged the attention of geographers and former navigators,

or a part of an island. If it proved to be the former, I was to employ

myself diligently in exploring as great an extent of it as I could; and

to make such notations thereon, and observations of every kind, as might

be useful either to navigation or commerce, or tend to the promotion of

natural knowledge. I was also directed to observe the genius, temper,

disposition, and number, of the inhabitants, if there were any, and

endeavour, by all proper means, to cultivate a friendship and alliance

with them; making them presents of such things as they might value;

inviting them to traffic, and showing them every kind of civility and

regard. I was to continue to employ myself on this service, and making

discoveries, either to the eastward or westward, as my situation might

render most eligible; keeping in as high a latitude as I could, and

prosecuting my discoveries as near to the South Pole as possible, so

long as the condition of the ships, the health of their crews, and the

state of their provisions, would admit of; taking care to reserve as

much of the latter as would enable me to reach some known port, where I

was to procure a sufficiency to bring me home to England. But if Cape

Circumcision should prove to be part of an island only, or if I should

not be able to find the said Cape, I was, in the first case, to make the

necessary survey of the island, and then to stand on to the southward,

so long as I judged there was a likelihood of falling in with the

continent; which I was also to do in the latter case; and then to

proceed to the eastward, in further search of the said continent, as

well as to make discoveries of such islands as might be situated in that

unexplored part of the southern hemisphere; keeping in high latitudes,

and prosecuting my discoveries as above-mentioned, as near the Pole as

possible, until I had circumnavigated the globe; after which I was to

proceed to the Cape of Good Hope, and from thence to Spithead.

In the prosecution of these discoveries, whenever the season of the year

rendered it unsafe for me to continue in high latitudes, I was to retire

to some known place to the northward, to refresh my people, and refit

the ships; and to return again to the southward, as soon as the season

of the year would admit of it. In all unforeseen cases, I was authorised

to proceed according to my own discretion; and in case the Resolution

should be lost or disabled, I was to prosecute the voyage on board the

Adventure.

I gave a copy of these instructions to Captain Furneaux, with an order

directing him to carry them into execution; and in case he was separated

from me, appointed the island of Madeira for the first place of

rendezvous, Port Praya in the island of St. Jago for the second, Cape of

Good Hope for the third, and New Zealand for the fourth.

During our stay at Plymouth, Messieurs Wales and Bayley, the two

astronomers, made observations on Drake’s Island, in order to ascertain

the latitude, longitude, and true time for putting the time-pieces or

watches in motion. The latitude was found to be 50° 21ʹ 30ʺ north; and

the longitude 4° 20ʹ west of Greenwich, which, in this voyage, is every

where to be understood as the first meridian, and from which the

longitude is reckoned east and west to 180° each way. On the 10th of

July, the watches were set a-going in the presence of the two

astronomers, Captain Furneaux, the first lieutenants of the ships, and

myself, and put on board. The two on board the Adventure were made by

Mr. Arnold, and also one of those on board the Resolution; but the other

was made by Mr. Kendal, upon the same principle, in every respect, as

Mr. Harrison’s time-piece. The commander, first lieutenant, and

astronomer, on board each of the ships, kept each of them keys of the

boxes which contained the watches, and were always to be present at the

winding them up, and comparing the one with the other; or some other

officer, if, at any time, through indisposition, or absence upon any

other necessary duties, any of them could not conveniently attend. The

same day, according to the custom of the navy, the companies of both

ships were paid two months’ wages in advance; and as a further

encouragement for their going this extraordinary voyage, they were also

paid the wages due to them to the 28th of the preceding May. This

enabled them to provide necessaries for the voyage.

On the 13th, at six o’clock in the morning, I sailed from Plymouth

Sound, with the Adventure in company; and on the evening of the 29th,

anchored in Funchiale Road, in the island of Madeira. The next morning I

saluted the garrison with eleven guns; which compliment was immediately

returned. Soon after, I went on shore, accompanied by Captain Furneaux,

the two Mr. Foresters, and Mr. Wales. At our landing, we were received

by a gentleman from the Vice-Consul, Mr. Sills, who conducted us to the

house of Mr. Loughnans, the most considerable English merchant in the

place. This gentleman not only obtained leave for Mr. Forster to search

the island for plants, but procured us every other thing we wanted, and

insisted on our accommodating ourselves at his house during our stay.

The town of Funchiale, which is the capital of the island, is situated

about the middle of the south side, in the bottom of the bay of the same

name, in latitude 32° 33ʹ 34ʺ north, longitude 17° 12-1/8ʹ west. The

longitude was deduced from lunar observations made by Mr. Wales, and

reduced to the town by Mr. Kendal’s watch, which made the longitude 17°

10ʹ 14ʺ west. During our stay here, the crews of both ships were

supplied with fresh beef and onions; and a quantity of the latter was

distributed amongst them for a sea store.

Having got on board a supply of water, wine, and other necessaries, we

left Madeira on the 1st of August, and stood to the southward, with a

fine gale at N. E. On the 4th we passed _Palma_, one of the Canary

isles. It is of a height to be seen twelve or fourteen leagues, and lies

in the latitude 28° 38ʹ north, longitude 17° 58ʹ west. The next day we

saw the isle of Ferro, and passed it at the distance of fourteen

leagues. I judged it to lie in the latitude 27° 42ʹ north, and longitude

18° 9ʹ west.

I now made three puncheons of beer, of the inspissated juice of malt.

The proportion I made use of was about ten of water to one of juice.

Fifteen of the nineteen half-barrels of the inspissated juice which we

had on board were produced from wort that was hopped before inspissated.

The other four were made of beer that had been both hopped and fermented

before inspissated. This last requires no other preparation to make it

fit for use, than to mix it with cold water, from one part in eight, to

one part in twelve of water, (or in such other proportion as might be

liked,) then stop it down; and in a few days it will be brisk, and

drinkable. But the other sort, after being mixed with water in the same

manner, will require to be fermented with _yeast_, in the usual way of

making beer; at least it was so thought. However, experience taught us

that this will not always be necessary. For by the heat of the weather

and the agitation of the ship, both sorts were at this time in the

highest state of fermentation, and had hitherto evaded all our

endeavours to stop it. If this juice could be kept from fermenting, it

certainly would be a most valuable article at sea.

On finding that our stock of water would not last us to the Cape of Good

Hope, without putting the people to a scanty allowance, I resolved to

stop at St. Jago for a supply. On the 9th, at nine o’clock in the

morning, we made the island of Bonavista, bearing S. W. The next day, we

passed the island of Mayo on our right; and the same evening anchored in

Port Praya, in the island of St. Jago, in eighteen fathom water. The

east point of the bay bore east; the west point S. W. 1/2 S. and the

fort N. W. I immediately dispatched an officer to ask leave to water,

and purchase refreshments; which was granted. On the return of the

officer I saluted the fort with eleven guns, on a promise of its being

returned with an equal number. But by a mistake, as they pretended, the

salute was returned with only nine; for which the governor made an

excuse the next day. The 14th, in the evening, having completed our

water, and got on board a supply of refreshments; such as hogs, goats,

fowls, and fruit; we put to sea, and proceeded on our voyage.

_Port Praya_ is a small bay, situated about the middle of the south side

of the island of St. Jago, in the latitude of 14° 53ʹ 30ʺ north,

longitude 23° 30ʹ west. It may be known, especially in coming from the

east, by the southermost hill on the island; which is round, and peaked

at top; and lies a little way inland, in the direction of west from the

port. This mark is the more necessary, as there is a small cove about a

league to the eastward, with a sandy beach in the bottom of it, a valley

and cocoa-nut trees behind, which strangers may mistake for Port Praya,

as we ourselves did. The two points which form the entrance of Port

Praya Bay, are rather low, and in the direction of W. S. W. and E. N. E.

half a league from each other. Close to the west point are sunken rocks,

on which the sea continually breaks. The bay lies in N. W. near half a

league; and the depth of water is from fourteen to four fathoms. Large

ships ought not to anchor in less than eight, in which depth the south

end of the Green island (a small island lying under the west shore) will

bear west. You water at a well that is behind the beach at the head of

the bay. The water is tolerable, but scarce; and bad getting off, on

account of a great surf on the beach. The refreshments to be got here

are, bullocks, hogs, goats, sheep, poultry, and fruits. The goats are of

the antelope kind, so extraordinary lean, that hardly any thing can

equal them; and the bullocks, hogs, and sheep are not much better.

Bullocks must be purchased with money; the price is twelve Spanish

dollars a head, weighing between 250 and 300 pounds. Other articles may

be got from the natives in exchange for old clothes, &c. But the sale of

bullocks is confined to a company of merchants; to whom this privilege

is granted, and who keep an agent residing upon the spot. The fort

above-mentioned seems wholly designed for the protection of the bay, and

is well situated for that purpose, being built on an elevation, which

rises directly from the sea on the right, at the head of the bay.

We had no sooner got clear of Port Praya, than we got a fresh gale at

N. N. E. which blew in squalls, attended with showers of rain. But the

next day the wind and showers abated, and veered to the south. It was,

however, variable and unsettled for several days, accompanied with dark,

gloomy weather, and showers of rain.

On the 19th, in the afternoon, one of the carpenter’s-mates fell over

board, and was drowned. He was over the side, fitting in one of the

scuttles; from whence, it was supposed, he had fallen: for he was not

seen till the very instant he sunk under the ship’s stern, when our

endeavours to save him were too late. This loss was sensibly felt during

the voyage, as he was a sober man and a good workman. About noon the

next day, the rain poured down upon us not in drops, but in streams. The

wind, at the same time, was variable, and squally; which obliged the

people to attend the decks, so that few in the ships escaped a good

soaking. We, however, benefited by it, as it gave us an opportunity of

filling all our empty water casks. This heavy rain at last brought on a

dead calm, which continued twenty-four hours, when it was succeeded by a

breeze from S. W. Betwixt this point and south it continued for several

days; and blew, at times, in squalls, attended with rain and hot sultry

weather. The mercury in the thermometers at noon, kept generally from 79

to 82.

On the 27th, spake with Captain Furneaux, who informed us that one of

his petty officers was dead. At this time we had not one sick on board;

although we had every thing of this kind to fear from the rain we had

had, which is a great promoter of sickness in hot climates. To prevent

this, and agreeable to some hints I had from Sir Hugh Palliser, and from

Captain Campbell, I took every necessary precaution, by airing and

drying the ship with fires made betwixt decks, smoaking, &c. and by

obliging the people to air their bedding, wash and dry their clothes,

whenever there was an opportunity. A neglect of these things causeth a

disagreeable smell below, affects the air, and seldom fails to bring on

sickness; but more especially in hot and wet weather.

We now began to see some of those birds which are said never to fly far

from land; that is, man of war, and tropic birds, gannets, &c. No land,

however, that we knew of, could be nearer than eighty leagues.

On the 30th, at noon, being in the latitude of 2° 35ʹ north, longitude

7° 30ʹ west, and the wind having veered to the east of south, we tacked

and stretched to the S. W. In the latitude of 0° 52ʹ north, longitude 9°

25ʹ west, we had one calm day, which gave us an opportunity of trying

the current in a boat. We found it set to the north one-third of a mile

an hour. We had reason to expect this from the difference we frequently

found between the observed latitude, and that given by the log: and Mr.

Kendal’s watch showed us, that it set to the East also. This was fully

confirmed by the lunar observations; when it appeared, that we were 3°

more to the east than the common reckoning. At the time of trying the

current, the mercury in the thermometer in the open air stood at 75-1/2;

and when immerged in the surface of the sea, at 74; but when immerged

eighty fathoms deep (where it remained fifteen minutes) when it came up,

the mercury stood at 66. At the same time we sounded, without finding

bottom with a line of two hundred and fifty fathoms.

The calm was succeeded by a light breeze at S. W. which kept veering by

little and little to the south, and at last to the eastward of south,

attended with clear serene weather. At length, on the 8th of September,

we crossed the line in the longitude of 8° west; after which the

ceremony of ducking, &c. generally practised on this occasion, was not

omitted.

The wind now veering more and more to the east, and blowing a gentle

top-gallant gale, in eight days it carried us into the latitude of 9°

30ʹ south, longitude 18° west. The weather was pleasant; and we daily

saw some of those birds which are looked upon as signs of the vicinity

of land; such as boobies, men of war, tropic birds, and gannets. We

supposed they came from the isle of St. Matthew, or Ascension; which

isles we must have passed at no great distance.

On the 27th, in the latitude of 25° 29ʹ, longitude 24° 54ʹ, we

discovered a sail to the west, standing after us. She was a snow; and

the colours she showed either a Portuguese or St. George’s Ensign, the

distance being too great to distinguish the one from the other; and I

did not choose to wait to get nearer, or to speak with her.

The wind now began to be variable. It first veered to the north, where

it remained two days with fair weather. Afterwards it came round by the

west to the south, where it remained two days longer, and after a few

hours’ calm sprang up at S. W. But here it remained not long before it

veered to S. E. E., and to the north of east; blew fresh, and by

squalls, with showers of rain.

With these winds we advanced but slowly, and without meeting with any

thing remarkable till the 11th of October, when at 6^h 24^m 12^s, by Mr.

Kendal’s watch, the moon rose about four digits eclipsed; and soon after

we prepared to observe the end of the eclipse, as follows, viz.

h. m. s.

By me at 6 53 51 with a common refractor.

By Mr. Forster 6 55 23

By Mr. Wales 6 54 57 quadrant telescope.

By Mr. Pickersgill 6 55 30 three feet refractor.

By Mr. Gilbert 6 53 24 naked eye.

By Mr. Hervey 6 55 34 quadrant telescope.

---------

Mean 6 54 46-1/2 by the watch.

Watch slow of}

apparent time} 0 3 59

---------

Apparent time 6 58 45-1/2 end of the eclipse.

Ditto 7 25 0 at Greenwich.

---------

Dif. of longitude 0 26 14-1/2 = 6° 33ʹ 30ʺ

The longitude observed by Mr. Wales was:

By the ☽ and α Aquilæ 5° 51ʹ} Mean 6 13 0

By the ☽ and Aldebaran 6 35 }

By Mr. Kendal’s watch 6° 53ʹ-7/8

The next morning, having but little wind, we hoisted a boat out, to try

if there was any current, but found none. From this time to the 16th, we

had the wind between the north and east, a gentle gale. We had for some

time ceased to see any of the birds before mentioned; and were now

accompanied by albatrosses, pintadoes, sheerwaters, &c. and a small grey

peterel, less than a pigeon. It has a whitish belly, and grey back, with

a black stroke across from the tip of one wing to the tip of the other.

These birds sometimes visited us in great flights. They are, as well as

the pintadoes, southern birds; and are, I believe, never seen within the

tropics, or north of the line.

On the 17th, we saw a sail to the N. W. standing to the eastward, which

hoisted Dutch colours. She kept us company for two days, but the third

we outsailed her.

On the 21st, at 7^h 30^m 20^s A. M. our longitude, by the mean of two

observed distances of the sun and moon, was 8° 4ʹ 30ʺ east; Mr. Kendal’s

watch at the same time gave 7° 22ʹ. Our latitude was 35° 20ʹ south. The

wind was now easterly, and continued so till the 23d, when it veered to

N. and N. W. after some hours calm; in which we put a boat in the water,

and Mr. Forster shot some albatrosses and other birds, on which we

feasted the next day, and found them exceedingly good. At the same time

we saw a seal, or, as some thought, a sea-lion, which probably might be

an inhabitant of one of the isles of Tristian de Cunha, being now nearly

in their latitude, and about 5° east of them.

The wind continued but two days at N. W. and S. W.; then veered to the

S. E., where it remained two days longer; then fixed at N. W., which

carried us to our intended port. As we approached the land, the

sea-fowl, which had accompanied us hitherto, began to leave us; at least

they did not come in such numbers; nor did we see gannets, or the black

bird commonly called the Cape hen, till we were nearly within sight of

the Cape; nor did we strike sounding till Penguin Island bore N. N. E.

distant two or three leagues, where we had fifty fathom water. Not but

that the soundings may extend farther off. However, I am very sure that

they do not extend very far west from the Cape; for we could not find

ground with a line of 210 fathoms, 25 leagues west of Table Bay; the

same at 35 leagues, and at 64 leagues. I sounded these three times, in

order to find a bank, which, I had been told, lies to the west of the

Cape; but how far I never could learn.

I was told, before I left England, by some gentlemen who were well

enough acquainted with the navigation between England and the Cape of

Good Hope, that I sailed at an improper season of the year; and that I

should meet with much calm weather near and under the line. This

probably may be the case some years; it is, however, not general; on the

contrary, we hardly met with any calms; but a brisk S. W. wind in those

very latitudes where the calms are expected. Nor did we meet with any of

those tornadoes, so much spoken of by other navigators. However, what

they have said of the current setting towards the coast of Guinea, as

you approach that shore, is true; for, from the time of our leaving St.

Jago to our arrival into the latitude of 1-1/2° north, which was eleven

days, we were carried by the current 3° of longitude more east than our

reckoning. On the other hand, after we had crossed the line, and got the

S. E. trade wind, we always found by observation, that the ship

outstripped the reckoning, which we judged to be owing to a current

setting between the south and west. But, upon the whole, the currents in

this run seemed to balance each other; for, upon our arrival at the

Cape, the difference of longitude by dead reckoning kept from England,

without once being corrected, was only three quarters of a degree less

than that by observation.

At two in the afternoon, on the 29th, we made the land of the Cape of

Good Hope. The Table Mountain, which is over the Cape Town, bore

E. S. E. distance 12 or 14 leagues. At this time it was a good deal

obscured by clouds, otherwise it might, from its height, have been seen

at a much greater distance. We now crowded all the sail we could,

thinking to get into the bay before dark. But when we found this could

not be accomplished, we shortened sail, and spent the night standing off

and on. Between eight and nine o’clock, the whole sea, within the

compass of our sight, became at once, as it were, illuminated; or, what

the seamen call, all on fire. This appearance of the sea, in some

degree, is very common; but the cause is not so generally known. Mr.

Banks and Dr. Solander had satisfied me that it was occasioned by sea

insects. Mr. Forster, however, seemed not to favour this opinion. I

therefore had some buckets of water drawn up from along-side the ship,

which we found full of an innumerable quantity of small globular

insects, about the size of a common pin’s head, and quite transparent.

There was no doubt of their being living animals, when in their own

proper element, though we could not perceive any life in them: Mr.

Forster, whose province it is more minutely to describe things of this

nature, was now well satisfied with the cause of the sea’s illumination.

At length day-light came, and brought us fair weather; and having stood

into Table Bay, with the Adventure in company, we anchored in five

fathom water. We afterwards moored N. E. and S. W.; Green Point, on the

west point of the bay, bearing N. W. by W.; and the church, in one with

the valley between the Table Mountain and the Sugar-Loaf or Lion’s Head,

bearing S. W. by S., and distant from the landing-place near the fort,

one mile.

We had no sooner anchored than we were visited by the Captain of the

port, or Master Attendant, some other officers belonging to the company,

and Mr. Brandt. This last gentleman brought us off such things as could

not fail of being acceptable to persons coming from sea. The purport of

the Master Attendant’s visit was, according to custom, to take an

account of the ships; to inquire into the health of the crews; and, in

particular, if the small-pox was on board; a thing they dread, above all

others, at the Cape, and for these purposes a surgeon is always one of

the visitants.

My first step, after anchoring, was to send an officer to wait on Baron

Plettenberg, the governor, to acquaint him with our arrival, and the

reasons which induced me to put in there. To this the officer received a

very polite answer; and, upon his return, we saluted the garrison with

eleven guns, which compliment was returned. Soon after, I went on shore

myself, and waited upon the governor, accompanied by Captain Furneaux,

and the two Mr. Forsters. He received us with great politeness, and

promised me every assistance the place could afford. From him I learned

that two French ships from the Mauritius, about eight months before, had

discovered land, in the latitude of 48° south, and in the meridian of

that island, along which they sailed forty miles, till they came to a

bay into which they were about to enter, when they were driven off and

separated in a hard gale of wind, after having lost some of their boats

and people, which they had sent to sound the bay. One of the ships, viz.

the La Fortune, soon after arrived at the Mauritius, the captain of

which was sent home to France with an account of the discovery. The

governor also informed me, that in March last two other French ships

from the island of Mauritius touched at the Cape in their way to the

South Pacific Ocean; where they were going to make discoveries, under

the command of M. Marion. Aotourou, the man M. de Bougainville brought

from Otaheite, was to have returned with M. Marion, had he been living.

After having visited the governor and some other principal persons of

the place, we fixed ourselves at Mr. Brandt’s, the usual residence of

most officers belonging to English ships. This gentleman spares neither

trouble nor expence to make his house agreeable to those who favour him

with their company, and to accommodate them with every thing they want.

With him I concerted measures for supplying the ships with provisions,

and all other necessaries they wanted; which he set about procuring

without delay, while the seamen on board were employed in overhauling

the rigging; and the carpenters in caulking the ship’s sides and decks,

&c.

Messrs. Wales and Bayley got all their instruments on shore, in order to

make astronomical observations for ascertaining the going of the

watches, and other purposes. The result of some of these observations

shewed, that Mr. Kendal’s watch had answered beyond all expectation, by

pointing out the longitude of this place to within one minute of time to

what it was observed by Messrs. Mason and Dixon in 1761.

Three or four days after us, two Dutch Indiamen arrived here from

Holland, after a passage of between four and five months, in which one

lost, by the scurvy and other putrid diseases, 150 men; and the other

41. They sent, on their arrival, great numbers to the hospital in very

dreadful circumstances. It is remarkable, that one of these ships

touched at Port Praya, and left it a month before we arrived there; and

yet we got here three days before her. The Dutch at the Cape, having

found their hospital too small for the reception of their sick, were

going to build a new one at the east part of the town; the foundation of

which was laid with great ceremony while we were there.

By the healthy condition of the crews of both ships at our arrival, I

thought to have made my stay at the Cape very short. But, as the bread

we wanted was unbaked, and the spirit, which I found scarce, to be

collected from different parts out of the country, it was the 18th of

November before we had got every thing on board, and the 22d before we

could put to sea. During this stay the crews of both ships were served

every day with fresh beef or mutton, new baked bread, and as much greens

as they could eat. The ships were caulked and painted; and, in every

respect, put in as good a condition as when they left England. Some

alterations in the officers took place in the Adventure. Mr. Shank, the

first lieutenant, having been in an ill state of health ever since we

sailed from Plymouth, and not finding himself recover here, desired my

leave to quit, in order to return home for the re-establishment of his

health. As his request appeared to be well-founded, I granted him leave

accordingly, and appointed Mr. Kemp first lieutenant in his room; and

Mr. Burney, one of my midshipmen, second, in the room of Mr. Kemp.

Mr. Forster, whose whole time was taken up in the pursuit of Natural

History and Botany, met with a Swedish gentleman, one Mr. Sparrman, who

understood something of these sciences, having studied under Dr.

Linnæus. He being willing to embark with us, Mr. Forster strongly

importuned me to take him on board; thinking that he would be of great

assistance to him in the course of the voyage. I at last consented, and

he embarked with us accordingly, as an assistant to Mr. Forster; who

bore his expences on board, and allowed him a yearly stipend besides.

Mr. Hodges employed himself here in drawing a view of the Cape, town,

and parts adjacent, in oil colours; which was properly packed up, with

some others, and left with Mr. Brandt, in order to be forwarded to the

Admiralty by the first ship that should sail for England.

CHAP. II.

DEPARTURE FROM THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE, IN SEARCH OF A SOUTHERN CONTINENT.

Having at length finished my business at the Cape, and taken leave of

the governor and some others of the chief officers, who, with very

obliging readiness, had given me all the assistance I could desire, on

the 22d November we repaired on board, and at three o’clock in the

afternoon weighed, and came to sail with the wind at N. by W. As soon as

the anchor was up, we saluted the fort with fifteen guns, which was

immediately returned; and after making a few trips, got out of the bay

by seven o’clock, at which time the town bore S. E., distant four miles.

After this we stood to the westward all night, in order to get clear of

the land; having the wind at N. N. W. and N. W., blowing in squalls,

attended with rain, which obliged us to reef our topsails. The sea was

again illuminated for some time, in the same manner as it was the night

before we arrived in Table Bay.

Having got clear of the land, I directed my course for Cape

Circumcision. The wind continued at N. W. a moderate gale, until the

24th; when it veered round to the eastward. On the noon of this day, we

were in the latitude of 35° 25ʹ south, and 29ʹ west of the Cape; and had

abundance of albatrosses about us, several of which were caught with

hook and line; and were very well relished by many of the people,

notwithstanding they were at this time served with fresh mutton. Judging

that we should soon come into cold weather, I ordered slops to be served

to such as were in want; and gave to each man the fearnought jacket and

trowsers allowed them by the Admiralty.

The wind continued easterly for two days, and blew a moderate gale,

which brought us into the latitude of 39° 4ʹ, and 2° of longitude west

of the Cape; thermometer 52-1/2. The wind now came to W. and S. W., and

on the 29th fixed at W. N. W. and increased to a storm, which continued,

with some few intervals of moderate weather, till the 6th of December;

when we were in the latitude of 48° 41ʹ south, and longitude 18° 24ʹ

east. This gale, which was attended with rain and hail, blew at times

with such violence that we could carry no sails; by which means we were

driven far to the eastward of our intended course, and no hopes were

left me of reaching Cape Circumcision. But the greatest misfortune that

attended us, was the loss of great part of our live stock; which we had

brought from the Cape; and which consisted of sheep, hogs, and geese.

Indeed this sudden transition from warm mild weather, to extreme cold

and wet, made every man in the ship feel its effects. For by this time

the mercury in the thermometer had fallen to 38; whereas at the Cape it

was generally at 67 and upwards. I now made some addition to the

people’s allowance of spirit, by giving them a dram whenever I thought

it necessary, and ordered Captain Furneaux to do the same. The night

proved clear and serene, and the only one that was so since we left the

Cape; and the next morning the rising sun gave us such flattering hopes

of a fine day, that we were induced to let all the reefs out of the

top-sails, and to get top-gallant-yards across, in order to make the

most of a fresh gale at north. Our hopes, however, soon vanished; for

before eight o’clock, the serenity of the sky was changed into a thick

haze, accompanied with rain. The gale increasing obliged us to hand the

main-sail, close-reef our top-sails, and to strike top-gallant-yards.

The barometer at this time was unusually low, which foreboded an

approaching storm; and this happened accordingly; for, by one o’clock

P. M., the wind, which was at N. W., blew with such strength as obliged

us to take in all our sails, to strike top-gallant-masts, and to get the

spritsail-yard in. And I thought proper to wear, and lie to, under a

mizzen-stay-sail, with the ships’ heads to the N. E., as they would bow

the sea, which ran prodigiously high, better on this tack.

At eight o’clock next morning, being the 8th, we wore, and lay on the

other tack; the gale was a little abated, but the sea ran too high to

make sail, any more than the fore-top-mast stay-sail. In the evening,

being in the latitude of 49° 40ʹ south, and 1-1/2° east of the Cape, we

saw two penguins, and some sea or rock weed, which occasioned us to

sound, without finding ground at 100 fathoms. At eight, P. M. we wore,

and lay with our heads to the N. E. till three o’clock in the morning of

the 9th, then wore again to the southward, the wind blowing in squalls,

attended with showers of snow. At eight, being something more moderate,

I made the Adventure signal to make sail, and soon after made sail

ourselves under the courses, and close-reefed top-sails. In the evening,

took in the top-sails and main-sail, and brought to, under fore-sail and

mizzen; thermometer at 36°. The wind, still at N. W., blew a fresh gale,

accompanied with a very high sea. In the night, had a pretty smart frost

with snow.

In the morning of the 10th, we made sail under courses and top-sails

close-reefed; and made the signal for the Adventure to make sail and

lead. At eight o’clock, saw an island of ice to the westward of us,

being then in the latitude of 50° 40ʹ south, and longitude 2° 0ʹ east of

the Cape of Good Hope. Soon after, the wind moderated, and we let all

the reefs out of the top-sails, got the spritsail-yard out, and

top-gallant-mast up. The weather coming hazy, I called the Adventure by

signal under my stern; which was no sooner done, than the haze increased

so much, with snow and sleet, that we did not see an island of ice,

which we were steering directly for, till we were less than a mile from

it. I judged it to be about 50 feet high, and half a mile in circuit. It

was flat at top, and its sides rose in a perpendicular direction,

against which the sea broke exceedingly high. Captain Furneaux at first

took this ice for land, and hauled off from it, until called back by

signal. As the weather was foggy, it was necessary to proceed with

caution. We therefore reefed our topsails, and at the same time sounded,

but found no ground with 150 fathoms. We kept on to the southward with

the wind at north till night, which we spent in making short trips,

first one way and then another, under an easy sail; thermometer this 24

hours from 36-1/2 to 31.

At day-light in the morning of the 11th, we made sail to the southward

with the wind at west, having a fresh gale, attended with sleet and

snow. At noon we were in the latitude of 51° 50ʹ S., and longitude 21°

3ʹ E., where we saw some white birds about the size of pigeons, with

blackish bills and feet. I never saw any such before; and Mr. Forster

had no knowledge of them. I believe them to be of the peterel tribe, and

natives of these icy seas. At this time we passed between two ice

islands, which lay at a little distance from each other.

In the night, the wind veered to N. W., which enabled us to steer S. W.

On the 12th, we had still thick hazy weather, with sleet and snow; so

that we were obliged to proceed with great caution on account of the ice

islands: six of these we passed this day; some of them near two miles in

circuit, and 60 feet high. And yet, such was the force and height of the

waves, that the sea broke quite over them. This exhibited a view, which

for a few moments was pleasing to the eye; but when we reflected on the

danger, the mind was filled with horror; for, were a ship to get against

the weather-side of one of these islands when the sea runs high, she

would be dashed to pieces in a moment. Upon our getting among the ice

islands, the albatrosses left us; that is, we saw but one now and then;

nor did our other companions, the pintadoes, sheer-waters, small grey

birds, fulmars, &c. appear in such numbers; on the other hand, penguins

began to make their appearance. Two of these birds were seen to-day.

The wind in the night veered to west, and at last fixed at S. W., a

fresh gale, with sleet and snow, which froze on our sails and rigging as

it fell, so that they were all hung with icicles. We kept on to the

southward, passed no less than eighteen ice islands, and saw more

penguins. At noon on the 13th, we were in the latitude of 54° south,

which is the latitude of Cape Circumcision, discovered by M. Bouvet in

1739; but we were ten degrees of longitude east of it; that is, near 118

leagues in this latitude. We stood on to the S. S. E. till eight o’clock

in the evening, the weather still continuing thick and hazy, with sleet

and snow. From noon till this time, twenty ice islands, of various

extent both for height and circuit, presented themselves to our view. At

eight o’clock we sounded, but found no ground with 150 fathom of line.

We now tacked, and make a trip to the northward till midnight, when we

stood again to the southward; and at half-an-hour past six o’clock in

the morning of the 14th, we were stopped by an immense field of low ice;

to which we could see no end, either to the east, west, or south. In

different parts of this field, were islands, or hills of ice, like those

we found floating in the sea; and some on board thought they saw land

also over the ice, bearing S. W. by S. I even thought so myself; but

changed my opinion upon more narrowly examining these ice hills, and the

various appearances they made when seen through the haze; for at this

time it was both hazy and cloudy in the horizon, so that a distant

object could not be seen distinct. Being now in the latitude of 54° 50ʹ

south, and longitude 21° 34ʹ east, and having the wind at N. W., we bore

away along the edge of the ice, steering S. S. E. and S. E., according

to the direction of the north side of it, where we saw many whales,

penguins, some white birds, pintadoes, &c.

At eight o’clock, we brought to under a point of the ice, where we had

smooth water: and I sent on board for Captain Furneaux. After we had

fixed on rendezvouses in case of separation, and some other matters for

the better keeping company, he returned on board, and we made sail again

along the ice. Some pieces we took up along-side, which yielded fresh

water. At noon we had a good observation, and found ourselves in

latitude 54° 55ʹ south.

We continued a S. E. course along the edge of the ice till one o’clock,

when we came to a point round which we hauled S. S. W., the sea

appearing to be clear of ice in that direction. But after running four

leagues upon this course, with the ice on our starboard side, we found

ourselves quite embayed; the ice extending from N. N. E. round by the

west and south, to east, in one compact body. The weather was

indifferently clear; and yet we could see no end to it. At five o’clock,

we hauled up east, wind at north, a gentle gale, in order to clear the

ice. The extreme east point of it, at eight o’clock, bore E. by S., over

which appeared a clear sea. We however spent the night in making short

boards, under an easy sail. Thermometer, these 24 hours, from 32 to 30.

Next day, the 15th, we had the wind at N. W., a small gale, thick foggy

weather, with much snow; thermometer from 32 to 27; so that our sails

and rigging were all hung with icicles. The fog was so thick, at times,

that we could not see the length of the ship; and we had much difficulty

to avoid the many islands of ice that surrounded us. About noon, having

but little wind, we hoisted out a boat to try the current, which we

found set S. E. near 3/4 of a mile an hour. At the same time, a

thermometer, which in the open air was at 32°, in the surface of the sea

was at 30°; and, after being immerged 100 fathoms deep for about 15 or

20 minutes, came up at 34°, which is only 2° above freezing. Our

latitude at this time was 55° 8ʹ.

The thick fog continued till two o’clock in the afternoon of the next

day, when it cleared away a little, and we made sail to the southward,

wind still at N. W., a gentle gale. We had not run long to the southward

before we fell in with the main field of ice, extending from S. S. W. to

E. We now bore away to east along the edge of it; but at night hauled

off north, with the wind at W. N. W., a gentle gale attended with snow.

At four in the morning on the 17th, stood again to the south; but was

again obliged to bear up on account of the ice, along the side of which

we steered betwixt E. and S. S. W., hauling into every bay or opening,

in hopes of finding a passage to the south. But we found every where the

ice closed. We had a gentle gale at N. W. with showers of snow. At noon

we were, by observation, in the latitude of 55° 16ʹ south. In the

evening, the weather was clear and serene. In the course of this day, we

saw many whales, one seal, penguins, some of the white birds, another

sort of peterel, which is brown and white, and not much unlike a

pintado; and some other sorts already known. We found the skirts of the

loose ice to be more broken than usual; and it extended some distance

beyond the main field, insomuch that we sailed amongst it the most part

of the day; and the high ice islands without us were innumerable. At

eight o’clock we sounded, but found no ground with 250 fathoms of line.

After this we hauled close upon a wind to the northward, as we could see

the field of ice extend as far as N. E. But this happened not to be the

northern point; for at eleven o’clock, we were obliged to tack to avoid

it.

At two o’clock the next morning, we stood again to the northward, with

the wind at N. W. by W., thinking to weather the ice upon this tack; on

which we stood but two hours, before we found ourselves quite imbayed,

being then in latitude 55° 8ʹ, longitude 24° 3ʹ. The wind veering more

to the north, we tacked, and stood to the westward under all the sail we

could carry, having a fresh breeze and clear weather, which last was of

short duration. For at six o’clock, it became hazy, and soon after there

was thick fog; the wind veered to the N. E., freshened, and brought with

it snow and sleet, which froze on the rigging as it fell. We were now

enabled to get clear of the field of ice; but at the same time we were

carried in amongst the ice islands, in a manner equally dangerous, and

which, with much difficulty, we kept clear of.

Dangerous as it is to sail among these floating rocks (if I may be

allowed to call them so) in a thick fog, this, however, is preferable to

being entangled with immense fields of ice under the same circumstances.

The great danger to be apprehended in this latter case, is the getting

fast in the ice; a situation which would be exceedingly alarming. I had

two men on board that had been in the Greenland trade; the one of them

in a ship that lay nine weeks, and the other in one that lay six weeks,

fast in this kind of ice; which they called packed ice. What _they_ call

field ice is thicker; and the whole field, be it ever so large, consists

of one piece. Whereas this which _I_ call field ice, from its immense

extent, consists of many pieces of various sizes, both in thickness and

surface, from 30 or 40 feet square to 3 or 4; packed close together; and

in places heaped one upon another. This, I am of opinion, would be found

too hard for a ship’s side, that is not properly armed against it. How

long it may have lain, or will lie here, is a point not easily

determined. Such ice is found in the Greenland seas all the summer long;

and I think it cannot be colder there in the summer, than it is here. Be

this as it may, we certainly had no thaw; on the contrary, the mercury

in Fahrenheit’s thermometer kept generally below the freezing point,

although it was the middle of summer.

It is a general opinion, that the ice I have been speaking of is formed

in bays and rivers. Under this supposition, we were led to believe that

land was not far distant; and that it even lay to the southward behind

the ice, which alone hindered us from approaching to it. Therefore, as

we had now sailed above 30 leagues along the edge of the ice, without

finding a passage to the south, I determined to run 30 or 40 leagues to

the east, afterwards endeavour to get to the southwards, and, if I met

with no land, or other impediment, to get behind the ice, and put the

matter out of all manner of dispute. With this view, we kept standing to

the N. W. with the wind at N. E. and N., thick foggy weather, with sleet

and snow, till six in the evening, when the wind veered to N. W. and we

tacked and stood to the eastward, meeting with many islands of ice of

different magnitudes, and some loose pieces: the thermometer from 30 to

34; weather very hazy, with sleet and snow, and more sensibly colder

than the thermometer seemed to point out, in so much that the whole crew

complained. In order to enable them to support this weather the better,

I caused the sleeves of their jackets (which were so short as to expose

their arms) to be lengthened with baize; and had a cap made for each man

of the same stuff, together with canvass; which proved of great service

to them.

Some of our people beginning to have symptoms of the scurvy, the

surgeons began to give them fresh wort every day, made from the malt we

had on board for that purpose. One man in particular was highly

scorbutic; and yet he had been taking of the rob of lemon and orange for

some time, without being benefited thereby. On the other hand, Captain

Furneaux told me, that he had two men who, though far gone in this

disease, were now in a manner entirely cured of it.

We continued standing to the eastward till eight o’clock in the morning

of the 21st; when, being in the latitude of 53° 50ʹ, and longitude 29°

24ʹ east, we hauled to the south with the wind at west, a fresh gale and

hazy, with snow. In the evening the wind fell, and the weather cleared

up, so as that we could see a few leagues round us; being in the

latitude of 54° 43ʹ south, longitude 29° 30ʹ east.

At ten o’clock, seeing many islands of ice ahead, and the weather coming

on foggy, with snow, we wore and stood to the northward, till three in

the morning, when we stood again to the south. At eight, the weather

cleared up, and the wind came to W. S. W. with which we made all the

sail we could to the south; having never less than ten or twelve islands

of ice in sight.

Next day we had the wind at S. W. and S. S. W. a gentle gale, with now

and then showers of snow and hail. In the morning, being in the latitude

of 55° 20ʹ south, and longitude 31° 30ʹ east, we hoisted out a boat to

see if there was any current; but found none. Mr. Forster, who went in

the boat, shot some of the small grey birds before mentioned, which were

of the peterel tribe, and about the size of a small pigeon. Their back,

and upper side of their wings, their feet and bills, are of a blue grey

colour. Their bellies, and under side of their wings, are white, a

little tinged with blue. The upper side of their quill feathers is a

dark blue tinged with black. A streak is formed by feathers nearly of

this colour along the upper parts of the wings, and crossing the back a

little above the tail. The end of the tail feathers is also of the same

colour. Their bills are much broader than any I have seen of the same

tribe; and their tongues are remarkably broad. These blue peterels, as I

shall call them, are seen no where but in the southern hemisphere, from

about the latitude of 28°, and upwards. Thermometer at 33° in the open

air, at 32 in the sea at the surface, and at 34-1/2 when drawn, and

6-1/2 minutes in drawing up from 100 fathoms below it, where it had been

16 minutes.

On the 24th, the wind blew from N. W. to N. E. a gentle gale, fair and

cloudy. At noon we were by observation in the latitude of 56° 31ʹ south,

and longitude 31° 19ʹ east, the thermometer at 35. And being near an

island of ice which was about 50 feet high, and 400 fathoms in circuit,

I sent the master in the jolly-boat to see if any water run from it. He

soon returned with an account, that there was not one drop, or any other

appearances of thaw. In the evening, we sailed through several floats or

fields of loose ice, lying in the direction of S. E. and N. W., at the

same time we had continually several islands of the same composition in

sight.

On the 25th, the wind veering round from the N. E. by the east to south,

it blew a gentle gale; with which we stood to the W. S. W. and at noon

were in the latitude of 57° 50ʹ south, and longitude 29° 32ʹ east. The

weather was fair and cloudy; the air sharp and cold, attended with a

hard frost. And, although this was the middle of summer with us, I much

question if the day was colder in any part of England. The wind

continued at south, blew a fresh gale, fair and cloudy weather, till

near noon the next day, when we had clear sunshine, and found ourselves,

by observation, in the latitude of 58° 31ʹ south longitude, 26° 57ʹ

east.

In the course of the last twenty-four hours, we passed through several

fields of broken loose ice. They were in general narrow, but of a

considerable length, in the direction of N. W. and S. E. The ice was so

close in one, that it would hardly admit the ship through it. The pieces

were flat, from four to six or eight inches thick, and appeared of that

sort of ice which is generally formed in bays or rivers. Others again

were different; the pieces forming various honey-combed branches,

exactly like coral rocks, and exhibiting such a variety of figures as

can hardly be conceived.

We supposed this ice to have broke from the main field we had lately

left; and which I was determined to get to the south of, or behind, if

possible, in order to satisfy myself, whether or no it joined to any

land, as had been conjectured. With this view, I kept on to the

westward, with a gentle gale at south and S. S. W., and soon after six

o’clock in the evening, we saw some penguins, which occasioned us to

sound; but we found no ground with 150 fathoms.

In the morning of the 27th, we saw more loose ice, but not many islands;

and those we did see were but small. The day being calm and pleasant,

and the sea smooth, we hoisted out a boat; from which Mr. Forster shot a

penguin and some peterels. These penguins differ not from those seen in

other parts of the world, except in some minute particulars

distinguishable only by naturalists. Some of the peterels were of the

blue sort; but differed from those before mentioned, in not having a

broad bill; and the ends of their tail feathers were tipped with white

instead of dark blue. But whether these were only the distinctions

between the male and female, was a matter disputed by our naturalists.

We were now in the latitude of 58° 19ʹ south, longitude 24° 39ʹ east,

and took the opportunity of the calm to sound; but found no ground with

a line of 220 fathoms. The calm continued till six in the evening, when

it was succeeded by a light breeze from the east, which afterwards

increased to a fresh gale.

In the morning of the 28th, I made the signal to the Adventure to spread

four miles on my starboard beam; and in this position we continued

sailing W. S. W. until four o’clock in the afternoon, when the hazy

weather, attended with snow showers, made it necessary for us to join.

Soon after we reefed our top-sails, being surrounded on all sides with

islands of ice. In the morning of the 29th, we let them out again, and

set top-gallant sails, still continuing our course to the westward, and

meeting with several penguins. At noon we were, by observation, in the

latitude of 59° 12ʹ, longitude 19° 1ʹ east; which is 3° more to the west

than we were when we first fell in with the field ice; so that it is

pretty clear that it joined to no land, as was conjectured.

Having come to a resolution to run as far west as the meridian of Cape

Circumcision, provided we met with no impediment, as the distance was

not more than 80 leagues, the wind favourable, and the sea seemed to be

pretty clear of ice, I sent on board for Captain Furneaux, to make him

acquainted therewith; and after dinner he returned to his ship. At one

o’clock we steered for an island of ice, thinking, if there were any

loose ice round it, to take some on board, and convert it into fresh

water. At four we brought to, close under the lee of the island; where

we did not find what we wanted, but saw upon it eighty-six penguins.

This piece of ice was about half a mile in circuit, and one hundred feet

high and upwards; for we lay for some minutes with every sail becalmed

under it. The side on which the penguins were, rose sloping from the

sea, so as to admit them to creep up it.

It is a received opinion, that penguins never go far from land, and that

the sight of them is a sure indication of its vicinity. This opinion may

hold good where there are no ice islands; but where such are, these

birds, as well as many others which usually keep near the shores,

finding a roosting-place upon these islands, may be brought by them a

great distance from any land. It will however be said, that they must go

on shore to breed; that probably the females were there, and that these

were only the males which we saw. Be this as it may, I shall continue to

take notice of these birds whenever we see them, and leave every one to

judge for himself.

We continued our course to the westward, with a gentle gale at E. N. E.

the weather being sometimes tolerably clear, and at other times thick

and hazy, with snow. The thermometer for a few days past was from 31 to

36. At nine o’clock the next morning, being the 30th, we shot one of the

white birds; upon which we lowered a boat into the water to take it up,

and by that means killed a penguin which weighed 11-1/2 pounds. The

white bird was of the peterel tribe; the bill, which is rather short, is

of a colour between black and dark blue, and their legs and feet are

blue. I believe them to be the same sort of birds that Bouvet mentions

to have seen, when he was off Cape Circumcision.

We continued our westerly course till eight o’clock in the evening, when

we steered N. W., the point on which I reckoned the above mentioned Cape

to bear.

At mid-night we fell in with loose ice, which soon after obliged us to

tack, and stretch to the southward. At half an hour past two o’clock in

the morning of the 31st, we stood for it again, thinking to take some on

board; but this was found impracticable. For the wind, which had been at

N. E., now veered to S. E., and increasing to a fresh gale, brought with

it such a sea as made it very dangerous for the ships to remain among

the ice. The danger was yet farther increased, by discovering an immense

field to the north, extending from N. E. by E. to S. W. by W. farther

than the eye could reach. As we were not above two or three miles from

this, and surrounded by loose ice, there was no time to deliberate. We

presently wore, got our tacks on board, hauled to the south, and soon

got clear, but not before we had received several hard knocks from the

loose pieces, which were of the largest sort, and among which we saw a

seal. In the afternoon, the wind increased in such a manner, as to

oblige us to hand the top-sails, and strike top-gallant-yards. At eight

o’clock we tacked, and stood to the east till mid-night, when, being in

the latitude of 60° 21ʹ south, longitude 13° 32ʹ east, we stood again to

the west.

Next day towards noon, the gale abated; so that we could carry

close-reefed top-sails. But the weather continued thick and hazy, with

sleet and snow, which froze on the rigging as it fell, and ornamented

the whole with icicles; the mercury in the thermometer being generally

below the freezing point. This weather continued till near noon the next

day; at which time we were in the latitude of 59° 12ʹ south, longitude

9° 45ʹ east, and here we saw some penguins.

The wind had now veered to the west, and was so moderate, that we could

bear two reefs out of the top-sails. In the afternoon, we were favoured

with a sight of the moon, whose face we had seen but once since we left

the Cape of Good Hope. By this a judgment may be formed of the sort of

weather we had had since we left that place. We did not fail to seize

the opportunity to make several observations of the sun and moon. The

longitude deduced from them was 9° 34ʹ 30ʺ east. Mr. Kendal’s watch, at

the same time, giving 10° 6ʹ east, and the latitude was 58° 53ʹ 30ʺ

south.

This longitude is nearly the same that is assigned to Cape Circumcision,

and at the going down of the sun, we were about ninety-five leagues to

the south of the latitude it is said to lie in. At this time the weather

was so clear, that we might have seen land at fourteen or fifteen

leagues distance. It is therefore very probable, that what Bouvet took

for land, was nothing but mountains of ice, surrounded by loose or field

ice. We ourselves were undoubtedly deceived by the ice hills, the day we

first fell in with the field ice. Nor was it an improbable conjecture,

that that ice joined to land. The probability was however now greatly

lessened, if not entirely set aside. For the space between the northern

edge of the ice, along which we sailed, and our route to the west, when

south of it, nowhere exceeded 100 leagues; and in some places not 60.

But a view of the chart will best explain this. The clear weather

continued no longer than three o’clock the next morning, when it was

succeeded by a thick fog, sleet, and snow. The wind also veered to N. E.

and blew a fresh gale, with which we stood to S. E. It increased in such

a manner, that before noon we were brought under close-reefed top-sails.

The wind continued to veer to the north, at last fixed at N. W. and was

attended with intervals of clear weather.

Our course was east, 3/4 north, till noon the next day, when we were in

the latitude of 59° 2ʹ south, and nearly under the same meridian as we

were when we fell in with the last field of ice, five days before; so

that had it remained in the same situation, we must now have been in the

middle of it. Whereas we did not so much as see any. We cannot suppose

that so large a float of ice as this was, could be destroyed in so short

a time. It therefore must have drifted to the northward, and this makes

it probable that there is no land under this meridian, between the

latitude of 55° and 59°, where we had supposed some to lie, as mentioned

above.

As we were now only sailing over a part of the sea where we had been

before, I directed the course E. S. E. in order to get more to the

south. We had the advantage of a fresh gale, and the disadvantage of a

thick fog, much snow and sleet, which, as usual, froze on our rigging as

it fell, so that every rope was covered with the finest transparent ice

I ever saw. This afforded an agreeable sight enough to the eye, but

conveyed to the mind an idea of coldness, much greater than it really

was; for the weather was rather milder than it had been for some time

past, and the sea less encumbered with ice. But the worst was, the ice

so clogged the rigging, sails, and blocks, as to make them exceedingly

bad to handle. Our people however surmounted those difficulties with a

steady perseverance, and withstood this intense cold much better than I

expected.

We continued to steer to the E. S. E. with a fresh gale at N. W.

attended with snow and sleet, till the 8th, when we were in the latitude

of 61° 12ʹ south, longitude 31° 47ʹ east. In the afternoon we passed

more ice islands than we had seen for several days. Indeed they were now

so familiar to us, that they were often passed unnoticed, but more

generally unseen on account of the thick weather. At nine o’clock in the

evening, we came to one which had a quantity of loose ice about it. As

the wind was moderate, and the weather tolerably fair, we shortened

sail, and stood on and off, with a view of taking some on board on the

return of light; but at four o’clock in the morning, finding ourselves

to leeward of this ice, we bore down to an island to leeward of us,

there being about it some loose ice, part of which we saw break off.

There we brought to, hoisted out three boats, and in about five or six

hours, took up as much ice as yielded fifteen tons of good fresh water.

The pieces we took up were hard, and solid as a rock, some of them were

so large, that we were obliged to break them with pick-axes, before they

could be taken into the boats.

The salt water which adhered to the ice, was so trifling as not to be

tasted, and after it had lain on deck a short time, entirely drained

off; and the water which the ice yielded, was perfectly sweet and

well-tasted. Part of the ice we broke in pieces, and put into casks,

some we melted in the coppers, and filled up the casks with the water,

and some we kept on deck for present use. The melting and stowing away

the ice is a little tedious, and takes up some time, otherwise this is

the most expeditious way of watering I ever met with.

Having got on board this supply of water, and the Adventure about

two-thirds as much (of which we stood in great need), as we had once

broke the ice, I did not doubt of getting more whenever we were in want.

I therefore, without hesitation, directed our course more to the south,

with a gentle gale at N. W. attended, as usual, with snow showers. In

the morning of the 11th, being then in the latitude of 62° 44ʹ south,

longitude 37° east, the variation of the compass was 24° 10ʹ west, and

the following morning in the latitude of 64° 12ʹ south, longitude 38°

14ʹ east, by the mean of three compasses, it was no more than 23° 52ʹ

west. In this situation we saw some penguins, and being near an island

of ice, from which several pieces had broken, we hoisted out two boats,

and took on board as much as filled all our empty casks; and the

Adventure did the same. While this was doing, Mr. Forster shot an

albatross, whose plumage was of a colour between brown and dark grey,

the head and upper side of the wings rather inclining to black, and it

had white eye-brows. We began to see these birds about the time of our

first falling in with the ice islands, and some had accompanied us ever

since. These, and the dark-brown sort with a yellow bill, were the only

albatrosses that had not now forsaken us.

At four o’clock P. M. we hoisted in the boats, and made sail to the

S. E. with a gentle breeze at S. by W. attended with showers of snow.

On the 13th, at two o’clock A. M. it fell calm. Of this we took the

opportunity to hoist out a boat, to try the current, which we found to

set N. W. near one third of a mile an hour. At the time of trying the

current, a Fahrenheit’s thermometer was immerged in the sea 100 fathoms

below its surface, where it remained twenty minutes. When it came up,

the mercury stood at 32, which is the freezing point. Some little time

after, being exposed to the surface of the sea, it rose to 33-1/2, and

in the open air to 36. The calm continued till five o’clock in the

evening, when it was succeeded by a light breeze from the south and

S. E. with which we stood to the N. E. with all our sails set.

Though the weather continued fair, the sky, as usual, was clouded.

However, at nine o’clock the next morning, it was clear, and we were

enabled to observe several distances between the sun and moon. The mean

result of which gave 39° 30ʹ 30ʺ east longitude. Mr. Kendal’s watch, at

the same time, gave 38° 27ʹ 45ʺ, which is 1° 2ʹ 45ʺ west of the

observations; whereas, on the 3d instant, it was half a degree east of

them.

In the evening I found the variation, by }

the mean of Azimuths taken with } 28° 14ʹ 0

Gregory’s compass, to be }

By the mean of six Azimuths by one } 28 32 0

of Dr. Knight’s }

And by another of Dr. Knight’s 28 34 0

Our latitude at this time was 63° 57ʹ, longitude 39° 38-1/2ʹ east.

The succeeding morning, the 15th, being then in latitude 63° 33ʹ south,

the longitude was observed by the following persons, viz.

Myself, being the mean of six distances } 40° 1ʹ 45ʺ E.

of the sun and moon }

Mr. Wales, ditto 39 29 45

Ditto, ditto 39 56 45

Lieutenant Clerke, ditto 39 38 0

Mr. Gilbert, ditto 39 48 45

Mr. Smith, ditto 39 18 15

----------

Mean 39 42 12

----------

Mr. Kendal’s watch made 38 41 30

Which is nearly the same difference as the day before. But Mr. Wales and

I took each of us six distances of the sun and moon, with the telescopes

fixed to our sextants, which brought out the longitude nearly the same

as the watch. The results were as follows:—By Mr. Wales 38° 35ʹ 30ʺ, and

by me 38° 36ʹ 45ʺ.

It is impossible for me to say whether these or the former are the

nearest the truth, nor can I assign any probable reason for so great a

disagreement. We certainly can observe with greater accuracy through the

telescope, than with the common sight, when the ship is sufficiently

steady. The use of the telescope is found difficult at first, but a

little practice will make it familiar. By the assistance of the watch,

we shall be able to discover the greatest error this method of observing

the longitude at sea is liable to; which, at the greatest, does not

exceed a degree and a half, and in general will be found to be much

less. Such is the improvement navigation has received by the astronomers

and mathematical instrument-makers of this age; by the former from the

valuable tables they have communicated to the public, under the

direction of the Board of Longitude, and contained in the astronomical

ephemeris; and by the latter, from the great accuracy they observe in

making instruments, without which the tables would, in a great measure,

lose their effect. The preceding observations were made by four

different sextants, of different workmen; mine was made by Mr. Bird; one

of Mr. Wales’s by Mr. Dollond; the other, and Mr. Clerke’s, by Mr.

Ramsden; as also Mr. Gilbert’s and Smith’s, who observed with the same

instrument.

Five tolerable fine days had now succeeded one another. This, besides

giving us an opportunity to make the preceding observations, was very

serviceable to us on many other accounts, and came at a very seasonable

time. For having on board a good quantity of fresh water or ice, which

was the same thing, the people were enabled to wash and dry their

clothes and linen; a care that can never be enough attended to in all

long voyages. The winds during this time blew in gentle gales, and the

weather was mild. Yet the mercury in the thermometer never rose above

36, and was frequently as low as the freezing point.

In the afternoon, having but little wind, I brought to under an island

of ice, and sent a boat to take up some. In the evening the wind

freshened at east, and was attended with snow showers and thick hazy

weather, which continued great part of the 16th. As we met with little

ice, I stood to the south, close hauled; and at six o’clock in the

evening, being in the latitude of 64° 56ʹ south, longitude 39° 35ʹ east,

I found the variation by Gregory’s compass to be 26° 41ʹ west. At this

time, the motion of the ship was so great, that I could by no means

observe with any of Dr. Knight’s compasses.

As the wind remained invariably fixed at east, and E. by S. I continued

to stand to the south; and on the 17th, between eleven and twelve

o’clock, we crossed the Antarctic circle in the longitude of 39° 35ʹ

east; for at noon we were by observation in the latitude of 66° 36ʹ 30ʺ

south. The weather was now become tolerably clear, so that we could see

several leagues round us; and yet we had only seen one island of ice

since the morning. But about four P. M. as we were steering to the

south, we observed the whole sea in a manner covered with ice, from the

direction of S. E. round by the south to west.

In this space, thirty-eight ice islands, great and small, were seen,

besides loose ice in abundance, so that we were obliged to luff for one

piece, and bear up for another, and as we continued to advance to the

south, it increased in such a manner, that at 3/4 past six o’clock,

being then in the latitude of 67° 15ʹ south, we could proceed no

farther; the ice being entirely closed to the south, in the whole extent

from east to W. S. W., without the least appearance of any opening. This

immense field was composed of different kinds of ice, such as high ills,

loose or broken pieces packed close together, and what, I think,

Greenlandmen call field-ice. A float of this kind of ice lay to the

S. E. of us, of such extent that I could see no end to it, from the

mast-head. It was sixteen or eighteen feet high at least; and appeared

of a pretty equal height and surface. Here we saw many whales playing

about the ice, and for two days before had seen several flocks of the

brown and white pintadoes, which we named Antarctic peterels, because

they seem to be natives of that region. They are undoubtedly of the

peterel tribe; are in every respect shaped like the pintadoes, differing

only from them in colour. The head and fore-part of the body of these

are brown; and the hind-part of the body, tail and ends of the wings,

are white. The white peterel also appeared in greater numbers than

before; some few dark grey albatrosses, and our constant companion the

blue peterel. But the common pintadoes had quite disappeared, as well as

many other sorts, which are common in lower latitudes.

CHAP. III.

SEQUEL OF THE SEARCH FOR A SOUTHERN CONTINENT BETWEEN THE MERIDIAN OF

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE AND NEW ZEALAND; WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE SEPARATION

OF THE TWO SHIPS, AND THE ARRIVAL OF THE RESOLUTION IN DUSKY BAY.

After meeting with this ice, I did not think it was at all prudent to

persevere in getting farther to the south, especially as the summer was

already half spent, and it would have taken up some time to have got

round the ice, even supposing it to have been practicable, which,

however, is doubtful. I therefore came to a resolution to proceed

directly in search of the land lately discovered by the French. And as

the winds still continued at E. by S., I was obliged to return to the

north, over some part of the sea I had already made myself acquainted

with, and for that reason wished to have avoided. But this was not to be

done; as our course, made good, was little better than north. In the

night, the wind increased to a strong gale, attended with sleet and

snow, and obliged us to double-reef our top-sails. About noon the next

day, the gale abated; so that we could bear all our reefs out; but the

wind still remained in its old quarter.

In the evening, being in the latitude of 64° 12ʹ south, longitude 40°

15ʹ east, a bird called by us, in my former voyage, Port Egmont hen, (on

account of the great plenty of them at Port Egmont, in Falkland isles,)

came hovering several times over the ship, and then left us in the

direction of N. E. They are a short thick bird about the size of a large

crow, of a dark brown or chocolate colour, with a whitish streak under

each wing in the shape of a half-moon. I have been told that these birds

are found in great plenty at the Fero isles, north of Scotland; and that

they never go far from land. Certain it is, I never before saw them

above forty leagues off; but I do not remember ever seeing fewer than

two together, whereas, here was but one, which, with the islands of ice,

may have come a good way from land.

At nine o’clock, the wind veering to E. N. E. we tacked and stood to the

S. S. E., but at four in the morning of the 20th, it returned back to

its old point, and we resumed our northerly course. One of the above

birds was seen this morning; probably the same we saw the night before,

as our situation was not much altered. As the day advanced, the gale

increased, attended with thick hazy weather, sleet and snow, and at last

obliged us to close-reef our top-sails, and strike top-gallant-yards.

But in the evening, the wind abated so as to admit us to carry whole

top-sails and top-gallant-yards aloft. Hazy weather, with snow and sleet

continued.

In the afternoon of the 21st, being in the latitude of 62° 24ʹ south,

longitude 42° 19ʹ east, we saw a white albatross with black-tipped

wings, and a pintadoe bird. The wind was now at south and S. W. a fresh

gale. With this we steered N. E. against a very high sea, which did not

indicate the vicinity of land in that quarter; and yet it was there we

were to expect it. The next day we had intervals of fair weather; the

wind was moderate, and we carried our studding sails. In the morning of

the 23rd, we were in latitude 60° 27ʹ south, longitude 45° 33ʹ east.

Snow showers continued, and the weather was so cold, that the water in

our water vessels on deck had been frozen for several preceding nights.

Having clear weather at intervals, I spread the ships a-breast four

miles from each other, in order the better to discover any thing that

might lie in our way. We continued to sail in this manner till six

o’clock in the evening, when hazy weather, and snow showers, made it

necessary for us to join.

We kept our course to the N. E. till eight o’clock in the morning of the

25th, when the wind having veered round to N. E. by E. by the west and

north, we tacked, and stood to N. W. The wind was fresh, and yet we made

but little way against a high northerly sea. We now began to see some of

that sort of peterels so well known to sailors by the name of

sheerwaters, latitude 58° 10ʹ, longitude 50° 54ʹ east. In the afternoon

the wind veered to the southward of east, and at eight o’clock in the

evening, it increased to a storm, attended with thick hazy weather,

sleet and snow.

During night we went under our fore-sail and main-top-sail close-reefed;

at day light the next morning, added to them the fore and mizzen

top-sails. At four o’clock it fell calm; but a prodigious high sea from

the N. E. and a complication of the worst of weather, viz. snow, sleet,

and rain, continued, together with the calm, till nine o’clock in the

evening. Then the weather cleared up, and we got a breeze at S. E. by S.

With this we steered N. by E. till eight o’clock the next morning, being

the 27th, when I spread the ships and steered N. N. E. all sails set,

having a fresh breeze at S. by W. and clear weather.

At noon we were, by observation, in the latitude of 56° 28ʹ south, and

about three o’clock in the afternoon, the sun and moon appearing at

intervals, their distances were observed by the following persons, and

the longitude resulting therefrom was—

By Mr. Wales, (mean of two sets) 50° 59ʹ east

Lieutenant Clerke 51 11

Mr. Gilbert 50 14

Mr. Smith 50 50

Mr. Kendall’s watch 50 50

At six o’clock in the evening, being in latitude 56° 9ʹ S., I now made

signal to the Adventure to come under my stern; and at eight o’clock the

next morning, sent her to look out on my starboard beam, having at this

time a fresh gale at west, and pretty clear weather. But this was not of

long duration, for at two in the afternoon, the sky became cloudy and

hazy; the wind increased to a fresh gale; blew in squalls attended with

snow, sleet, and drizzling rain. I now made signal to the Adventure to

come under my stern, and took another reef in each top-sail. At eight

o’clock I hauled up the main-sail, and run all night under the

fore-sail, and two top-sails; our course being N. N. E. and N. E. by N.

with a strong gale at N. W.

The 29th, at noon, we observed in latitude 52° 29ʹ south, the weather

being fair and tolerably clear. But in the afternoon, it again became

very thick and hazy, with rain; and the gale increased in such a manner

as to oblige us to strike top-gallant yards, close reef and hand the

top-sails. We spent part of the night, which was very dark and stormy,

in making a tack to the S. W., and in the morning of the 30th, stood

again to the N. E., wind at N. W. and north, a very fresh gale; which

split several of our small sails. This day no ice was seen; probably

owing to the thick hazy weather. At eight o’clock in the evening we

tacked and stood to the westward, under our courses; but as the sea ran

high we made our course no better than S. S. W.

At four o’clock the next morning, the gale had a little abated; and the

wind had backed to W. by S. We again stood to the northward, under

courses and double-reefed top-sails, having a very high sea from the

N. N. W., which gave us but little hopes of finding the land we were in

search of. At noon, we were in the latitude of 50° 50ʹ S. longitude 56°

48ʹ east, and presently after we saw two islands of ice. One of these we

passed very near, and found that it was breaking or falling to pieces,

by the cracking noise it made; which was equal to the report of a

four-pounder. There was a good deal of loose ice about it; and had the

weather been favourable, I should have brought to, and taken some up.

After passing this, we saw no more, till we returned again to the south.

Hazy, gloomy weather continued, and the wind remained invariably fixed

at N. W., so that we could make our course no better than N. E. by N.,

and this course we held till four o’clock in the afternoon of the 1st of

February. Being then in the latitude of 48° 30ʹ, and longitude 58° 7ʹ

east, nearly in the meridian of the island of Mauritius, and where we

were to expect to find the land said to be discovered by the French, of

which at this time we saw not the least signs, we bore away east.

I now made the signal to the Adventure to keep at the distance of four

miles on my starboard beam. At half an hour past six Captain Furneaux

made the signal to speak with me; and upon his coming under my stern, he

informed me that he had just seen a large float of sea or rock-weed, and

about it several birds (divers). These were certainly signs of the

vicinity of land; but whether it lay to the east or west was not

possible for us to know. My intention was to have got into this latitude

four or five degrees of longitude to the west of the meridian we were

now in, and then to have carried on my researches to the east. But the

W. and N. W. winds we had had the five preceding days prevented me from

putting this in execution.

The continual high sea we had lately had from the N. E., N. N. W. and

west, left me no reason to believe that land of any extent lay to the

west. We therefore continued to steer to the E., only lying to a few

hours in the night, and in the morning resumed our course again, four

miles north and south from each other; the hazy weather not permitting

us to spread farther. We passed two or three small pieces of rock-weed,

and saw two or three birds known by the name of egg-birds; but saw no

other signs of land. At noon we observed, in latitude 48° 36ʹ south,

longitude 59° 35ʹ east. As we could only see a few miles farther to the

south, and as it was not impossible that there might be land not far off

in that direction, I gave orders to steer S. 1/2 E., and made the signal

for the Adventure to follow, she being, by this movement, thrown

a-stern. The weather continuing hazy till half an hour past six o’clock

in the evening, when it cleared up so as to enable us to see about five

leagues round us.

Being now in the latitude of 49° 13ʹ south, without having the least

signs of land, I wore and stood again to the eastward, and soon after

spoke with Captain Furneaux. He told me that he thought the land was to

the N. W. of us; as he had, at one time, observed the sea to be smooth

when the wind blew in that direction. Although this was not conformable

to the remarks _we_ had made on the sea, I resolved to clear up the

point, if the wind would admit of my getting to the west in any

reasonable time.

At eight o’clock in the morning of the 3d, being in the latitude of 48°

56ʹ South, longitude 6° 47ʹ East, and upwards of 3° to the east of the

meridian of Mauritius, I began to despair of finding land to the east;

and as the wind had now veered to the northward, resolved to search for

it to the west. I accordingly tacked and stood to the west with a fresh

gale. This increased in such a manner, that before night we were reduced

to our two courses; and at last, obliged to lie to under the fore-sails,

having a prodigious high sea from W. N. W., notwithstanding the height

of the gale was from N. by W. At three o’clock the next morning, the

gale abating, we made sail, and continued to ply to the west till ten

o’clock in the morning of the sixth.

At this time being in the latitude of 48° 6ʹ South, longitude 58° 22ʹ

East, the wind seemingly fixed at W. N. W., and seeing no signs of

meeting with land, I gave over plying, and bore away east a little

southerly: being satisfied, that if there is any land hereabout, it can

only be an isle of no great extent. And it was just as probable I might

have found it to the east as west.

While we were plying about here, we took every opportunity to observe

the variation of the compass, and found it to be from 27° 50ʹ, to 30°

26ʹ West. Probably the mean of the two extremes, viz. 29° 4ʹ is the

nearest the truth, as it nearly agrees with the variation observed on

board the Adventure. In making these observations, we found that, when

the sun was on the starboard side of the ship, the variation was the

least; and when on the larboard side, the greatest. This was not the

first time we had made this observation, without being able to account

for it. At four o’clock in the morning of the 7th, I made the

Adventure’s signal to keep at the distance of four miles on my starboard

beam; and continued to steer E. S. E. This being a fine day, I had all

our men’s bedding and cloaths spread on deck to air, and the ship

cleaned and smoked betwixt decks. At noon I steered a point more to the

south, being then in the latitude of 48° 49ʹ south, longitude 61° 48ʹ

east. At six o’clock in the evening, I called in the Adventure; and at

the same time took several azimuths, which gave the variation 31° 28ʹ

west. These observations could not be taken with the greatest accuracy,

on account of the rolling of the ship, occasioned by a very high

westerly swell.

The preceding evening, three Port Egmont hens were seen; this morning

another appeared. In the evening, and several times in the night,

penguins were heard; and at day-light, in the morning of the 8th,

several of these were seen; and divers of two sorts, seemingly such as

are usually met with on the coast of England. This occasioned us to

sound; but we found no ground with a line of 210 fathoms. Our latitude

now was 49° 53ʹ South, and longitude 63° 39ʹ east. This was at eight

o’clock. By this time the wind had veered round by the N. E. to E., blew

a brisk gale, and was attended with hazy weather, which soon after

turned to a thick fog; and at the same time, the wind shifted to N. E.

I continued to keep the wind on the larboard tack, and to fire a gun

every hour till noon; when I made the signal to tack, and tacked

accordingly. But as neither this signal, nor any of the former, was

answered by the Adventure, we had but too much reason to think that a

separation had taken place; though we were at a loss to tell how it had

been effected. I had directed Captain Furneaux, in case he was separated

from me, to cruise three days in the place where he last saw me. I

therefore continued making short boards, and firing half-hour guns, till

the 9th in the afternoon, when the weather having cleared up, we could

see several leagues round us, and found that the Adventure was not

within the limits of our horizon. At this time, we were about two or

three leagues to the eastward of the situation we were in when we last

saw her, and were standing to the westward with a very strong gale at

N. N. W., accompanied with a great sea from the same direction. This,

together with an increase of wind, obliged us to lie to, till eight

o’clock the next morning; during which time we saw nothing of the

Adventure, notwithstanding the weather was pretty clear, and we had kept

firing guns, and burning false fires, all night. I therefore gave over

looking for her, made sail, and steered S. E. with a very fresh gale at

W. by N., accompanied with a high sea from the same direction.

While we were beating about here, we frequently saw penguins and divers,

which made us conjecture that land was not far off; but in what

direction, it was not possible for us to tell. As we advanced to the

south, we lost the penguins, and most of the divers, and as usual, met

with abundance of albatrosses, blue peterels, sheer-waters, &c.

The 11th at noon, and in the latitude of 51° 15ʹ south, longitude 67°

20ʹ east, we again met with penguins; and saw an egg-bird, which we also

look upon to be a sign of the vicinity of land. I continued to steer to

the S. E., with a fresh gale in the N. W. quarter, attended with a long

hollow swell, and frequent showers of rain, hail, and snow. The 12th, in

the morning, being in the latitude of 52° 32ʹ south, longitude 69° 47ʹ

east, the variation was 31° 38ʹ West. In the evening, in the latitude of

53° 7ʹ south, longitude 70° 50ʹ east, it was 32° 33ʹ: and the next

morning, in the latitude of 53° 37ʹ south, longitude 72° 10ʹ, it was 33°

8ʹ west. Thus far we had continually a great number of penguins about

the ship, which seemed to be different from those we had seen near the

ice; being smaller, with reddish bills and brownish heads. The meeting

with so many of these birds, gave us some hopes of finding land, and

occasioned various conjectures about its situation. The great westerly

swell, which still continued, made it improbable that land of any

considerable extent lay to the west. Nor was it very probable that any

lay to the north; as we were only about 160 leagues to the south of

Tasman’s Track in 1642; and I conjectured that Captain Furneaux would

explore this place; which accordingly happened. In the evening we saw a

Port Egmont hen, which flew away in the direction of N. E. by E., and

the next morning, a seal was seen; but no penguins. In the evening,

being in the latitude of 55° 49ʹ south, longitude 75° 52ʹ east, the

variation was 34° 48ʹ west; and in the evening of the 15th, in latitude

57° 2ʹ south, longitude 79° 56ʹ east, it was 38° west. Five seals were

seen this day, and a few penguins; which occasioned us to sound, without

finding any bottom, with a line of 150 fathoms.

At day-light in the morning of the 16th, we saw an island of ice to the

northward; for which we steered, in order to take some on board; but the

wind shifting to that direction, hindered us from putting this in

execution. At this time we were in the latitude of 57° 8ʹ south,

longitude 80° 59ʹ east, and had two islands of ice in sight. This

morning we saw one penguin, which appeared to be of the same sort which

we had formerly seen near the ice. But we had now been so often deceived

by these birds, that we could no longer look upon them, nor indeed upon

any other oceanic birds, which frequent high latitudes, as sure signs of

the vicinity of land.

The wind continued not long at north, but veered to E. by N. E., and

blew a gentle gale, with which we stood to the southward; having

frequent showers of sleet and snow. But in the night we had fair

weather, and a clear serene sky; and between midnight and three o’clock

in the morning, lights were seen in the heavens, similar to those in the

northern hemisphere, known by the name of Aurora Borealis, or northern

lights; but I never heard of the Aurora Australis being seen before. The

officer of the watch observed, that it sometimes broke out in spiral

rays, and in a circular form; then its light was very strong, and its

appearance beautiful. He could not perceive it had any particular

direction; for it appeared, at various times, in different parts of the

heavens, and diffused its light throughout the whole atmosphere.

At nine in the morning, we bore down to an island of ice, which we

reached by noon. It was full half a mile in circuit, and two hundred

feet high at least; though very little loose ice about it. But while we

were considering whether or no we should hoist out our boats to take

some up, a great quantity broke from the island. Upon this we hoisted

out our boats, and went to work to get some on board. The pieces of ice,

both great and small, which broke from the island, I observed, drifted

fast to the westward; that is, they left the island in that direction,

and were, in a few hours, spread over a large space of sea. This, I have

no doubt, was caused by a current setting in that direction; for the

wind could have but little effect upon the ice; especially as there was

a large hollow swell from the west. This circumstance greatly retarded

our taking up ice. We, however, made a shift to get on board about nine

or ten tons before eight o’clock, when we hoisted in the boats, and made

sail to east, inclining to the south, with a fresh gale at south; which

soon after veered to S. S. W. and S. W., with fair but cloudy weather.

This course brought us among many ice isles; so that it was necessary to

proceed with great caution. In the night the mercury in the thermometer

fell two degrees below the freezing point; and the water in the scuttle

casks on deck was frozen. As I have not taken notice of the thermometer

of late, I shall now observe that, as we advanced to the north, the

mercury gradually rose to 45, and fell again, as we advanced to the

south, to what is above mentioned; nor did it rise, in the middle of the

day, to above 34 or 35.

In the morning of the 18th, being in the latitude of 57° 54ʹ south,

longitude 83° 14ʹ east, the variation was 39° 33ʹ west. In the evening,

in latitude 58° 2ʹ south, longitude 84° 35ʹ east, it was only 37° 8ʹ

west; which induced me to believe it was decreasing. But in the evening

of the 20th, in the latitude of 58° 47ʹ south, longitude 90° 56ʹ east, I

took nine azimuths, with Dr. Knight’s compass, which gave the variation

40° 7ʹ; and nine others, with Gregory’s, which gave 40° 15ʹ west.

This day, at noon, being nearly in the latitude and longitude just

mentioned, we thought we saw land to the S. W. The appearance was so

strong, that we doubted not it was there in reality, and tacked to work

up to it accordingly; having a light breeze at south, and clear weather.

We were, however, soon undeceived, by finding that it was only clouds;

which, in the evening, entirely disappeared, and left us a clear

horizon, so that we could see a considerable way round us; in which

space nothing was to be seen but ice islands.

In the night, the Aurora Australis made a very brilliant and luminous

appearance. It was seen first in the east, a little above the horizon;

and, in a short time, spread over the whole heavens.

The 21st, in the morning, having little wind and a smooth sea, two

favourable circumstances for taking up ice, I steered for the largest

ice-island before us, which we reached by noon. At this time, we were in

the latitude of 59° south, longitude 92° 30ʹ east; having, about two

hours before, seen three or four penguins. Finding here a good quantity

of loose ice, I ordered two boats out, and sent them to take some on

board. While this was doing, the island, which was not less than half a

mile in circuit, and three or four hundred feet high above the surface

of the sea, turned nearly bottom up. Its height, by this circumstance,

was neither increased nor diminished, apparently. As soon as we had got

on board as much ice as we could dispose of, we hoisted in the boats,

and made sail to the S. E., with a gentle breeze at N. by E., attended

with showers of snow, and dark gloomy weather. At this time, we had but

few ice-islands in sight; but the next day, seldom less than twenty or

thirty were seen at once.

The wind gradually veered to the east, and, at last, fixing at E. by S.,

blew a fresh gale. With this, we stood to the south, till eight o’clock

in the evening of the 23d; at which time we were in the latitude 61° 52ʹ

south, longitude 95° 2ʹ east. We now tacked, and spent the night, which

was exceedingly stormy, thick, and hazy, with sleet and snow, in making

short boards. Surrounded on every side with danger, it was natural for

us to wish for day-light: this, when it came, served only to increase

our apprehensions, by exhibiting to our view those huge mountains of ice

which, in the night, we had passed without seeing.

These unfavourable circumstances, together with dark nights, at this

advanced season of the year, quite discouraged me from putting in

execution a resolution I had taken of crossing the Antarctic circle once

more. Accordingly, at four o’clock in the morning, we stood to the

north, with a very hard gale at E. S. E., accompanied with snow and

sleet, and a very high sea, from the same point, which made great

destruction among the ice islands. This circumstance, far from being of

any advantage to us, greatly increased the number of pieces we had to

avoid. The large pieces which break from the ice islands, are much more

dangerous than the islands themselves; the latter are so high out of

water, that we can generally see them, unless the weather be very thick

and dark, before we are very near them; whereas the others cannot be

seen in the night, till they are under the ship’s bows. These dangers

were, however, now become so familiar to us, that the apprehensions they

caused, were never of long duration; and were, in some measure,

compensated, both by the seasonable supplies of fresh water these ice

islands afforded us, (without which we must have been greatly

distressed,) and also, by their very romantic appearance, greatly

heightened by the foaming and dashing of the waves into the curious

holes and caverns which are formed in many of them; the whole exhibiting

a view which at once filled the mind with admiration and horror, and can

only be described by the hand of an able painter. Towards the evening,

the gale abated; and in the night we had two or three hours calm. This

was succeeded by a light breeze at west; with which we steered east,

under all the sail we could set, meeting with many ice-islands.

This night we saw a Port Egmont hen; and next morning, being the 25th,

another. We had lately seen but few birds; and those were albatrosses,

sheer-waters, and blue peterels. It is remarkable, that we did not see

one of either the white, or Antarctic peterels, since we came last

amongst the ice. Notwithstanding the wind kept at W. and N. W. all day,

we had a very high sea from the east; by which we concluded that no land

could be near in that direction. In the evening, being in the latitude

60° 51ʹ, longitude 95° 41ʹ east, the variation was 43° 6ʹ west; and the

next morning, being the 26th, having advanced about a degree and a half

more to the east, it was 41° 30ʹ; both being determined by several

azimuths.

We had fair weather all the afternoon; but the wind was unsettled,

veering round by the north to the east. With this, we stood to the S. E.

and E. till three o’clock in the afternoon; when, being in the latitude

of 61° 21ʹ south, longitude 97° 7ʹ, we tacked, and stood to the

northward and eastward, as the wind kept veering to the south. This, in

the evening, increased to a strong gale, blew in squalls, attended with

snow and sleet, and thick hazy weather, which soon brought us under our

close-reefed top-sails.

Between eight in the morning of the 26th and noon the next day, we fell

in among several islands of ice; from whence such vast quantities had

broken, as to cover the sea all round us, and render sailing rather

dangerous. However, by noon, we were clear of it all. In the evening the

wind abated, and veered to S. W., but the weather did not clear up till

the next morning; when we were able to carry all our sails, and met with

but very few islands of ice to impede us. Probably the late gale had

destroyed a great number of them. Such a very large hollow sea had

continued to accompany the wind, as it veered from E. to S. W., that I

was certain no land of considerable extent could lie within 100 or 150

leagues of our situation between these two points.

The mean height of the thermometer at noon, for some days past, was

about 35; which is something higher than it usually was, in the same

latitude, about a month or five weeks before, consequently the air was

something warmer. While the weather was really _warm_, the gales were

not only stronger, but more frequent; with almost continual misty,

dirty, wet weather. The very animals we had on board felt its effects. A

sow having in the morning farrowed nine pigs, every one of them was

killed by the cold, before four o’clock in the afternoon,

notwithstanding all the care we could take of them. From the same cause,

myself, as well as several of my people, had fingers and toes

chilblained. Such is the summer weather we enjoyed.

The wind continued unsettled, veering from the south to the west, and

blew a fresh gale till the evening. Then it fell little wind; and, soon

after, a breeze sprung up at north; which quickly veered to N. E. and

N. E. by E., attended with a thick fog, snow, sleet, and rain. With this

wind and weather, we kept on to the S. E. till four o’clock in the

afternoon of the next day, being the 1st of March, when it fell calm;

which continued for near twenty-four hours. We were now in the latitude

of 60° 36ʹ south, longitude 107° 54ʹ; and had a prodigious high swell

from the S. W., and, at the same time, another from the S. or S. S. E.

The dashing of the one wave against the other, made the ship both roll

and pitch exceedingly; but, at length, the N. W. swell prevailed. The

calm continued till noon the next day, when it was succeeded by a gentle

breeze from S. E., which afterwards increased, and veered to S. W. With

this we steered N. E. by E., and E. by N., under all the sail we could

set.

In the afternoon of the 3d, being in latitude 60° 13ʹ, longitude 110°

18ʹ, the variation was 39° 4ʹ, west. But the observations by which this

was determined, were none of the best; being obliged to make use of such

as we could get, during the very few and short intervals when the sun

appeared. A few penguins were seen this day, but not so many islands of

ice as usual. The weather was also milder; though very changeable;

thermometer from 36 to 38. We continued to have a N. W. swell, although

the wind was unsettled, veering to N. E. by the west and north, attended

with hazy, sleet, and drizzling rain.

We prosecuted our course to the east, inclining to the south, till three

o’clock in the afternoon of the 4th, when (being in the latitude of 60°

37ʹ, longitude 113° 24ʹ) the wind shifting at once to S. W. and S. W. by

S., I gave orders to steer E. by N. 1/2 N. But in the night we steered

E. 1/2 S. in order to have the wind, which was at S. S. W., more upon

the beam; the better to enable us to stand back, in case we fell in with

any danger in the dark. For we had not so much time to spare, to allow

us to lie to.

In the morning of the 5th, we steered E. by N. under all the sail we

could set, passing one ice-island and many small pieces, and at nine

o’clock the wind, which of late had not remained long upon any one

point, shifted all at once to east, and blew a gentle gale. With this we

stood to the north, at which time we were in the latitude of 60° 44ʹ

south, and longitude 116° 50ʹ east. The latitude was determined by the

meridian altitude of the sun, which appeared, now and then, for a few

minutes, till three in the afternoon. Indeed the sky was, in general, so

cloudy, and the weather so thick and hazy, that we had very little

benefit of sun or moon; very seldom seeing the face of either the one or

the other. And yet, even under these circumstances, the weather for some

days past could not be called very cold. It, however, had not the least

pretension to be called summer weather, according to my ideas of summer

in the northern hemisphere, as far as 60° of latitude; which is nearly

as far north as I have been.