AUSTRALIAN FOOD HABITS AND THEIR FAULTS.--A PLEA FOR THEIR IMPROVEMENT.
It is somewhat curious that, among the many questions which pertain to
the national life of Australia, little, if any, attention has been
directed to the influences which the daily food and habitual dietary
exercise upon the present, and in what way they will affect the future
population. And yet it must be apparent that the life of a nation is
moulded in no small degree by its daily fare, by its general food
habits, and still more by the fact of its living in conformity with, or
in direct opposition to, its climatic requirements. It is evident that
the natural dietary of the earth's inhabitants is controlled largely by
the particular region in which they dwell. Thus the Hindoos, and
contiguous Eastern nations, subsist mainly upon the cereals, in which
rice plays so prominent a part. The Greenlander's fare, on the
contrary, consists almost entirely of oils and fats; indeed, on this
point Sir Anthony Carlisle relates the following anecdote:--"The most
Northern races of mankind," says he, "were found to be unacquainted
with the taste of sweets, and their infants made wry faces and
sputtered out sugar with disgust, but the little urchins grinned with
ecstasy at the sight of a bit of whale's blubber." In the same way the
Arab is a date-eater and the Kaffir is a milk consumer. These facts
being borne in mind, it will be desirable to ascertain whether the
usual food habits obtaining in Australia are those which the nature of
the climate renders advisable. If, as a result of such an inquiry, it
be demonstrated that the dietary customs followed here are not
in harmony with the climatic conditions, it would, perhaps, be well to
suggest in what direction amendment should take place.
A reference to the isothermal lines in any physical atlas will be of
considerable value in assisting us to the elucidation of the subject
under consideration. These are certain lines drawn over a chart of the
earth's surface, on which are located those cities and regions where
the mean annual temperature is the same. Thus the mean annual
temperature of Sydney is 62.9 degrees; the corresponding line in the
northern world runs through Naples and Lisbon in Europe, and a little
below the central portion of the United States and California in America.
At Melbourne the average yearly temperature is 57.6 degrees, corresponding
in the old world to a temperature met with at Marseilles, Bordeaux, the
south of France and Northern Italy, while across the Atlantic a somewhat
similar climate obtains about the middle of the United States. The mean
annual temperature at Brisbane is 67.74 degrees; this is the same as that
of Algiers and the southern shores of the Mediterranean generally, and
coincides with that met with in New Orleans and the southern states of
North America. At Adelaide the average yearly temperature is 63.1 degrees,
and the climate is considered to greatly resemble that of Sicily. Now, no
other mode that I am aware of, such as this juxtaposition of localities
where the mean annual temperature is the same, will afford such a
convenient way of contrasting the mode of living which is practised in
Australia with that which is followed by the inhabitants of the regions
referred to in Europe. The cardinal difference, and one which stands
out in bold relief, is that the Australian food habits are
characterised by a preponderancy of meat diet and a corresponding
neglect of vegetable products. On the other hand, the dietary of
Southern Europe is in rational harmony with its climate, and
there is not that insensate insistence of a highly nitrogenous animal
fare to the exclusion of all else. The striking features, then, in
connection with the Australian dietary are this extraordinary
consumption of meat and the faith which is presumably attached to its
food value. It is no exaggeration to say that the vast majority of our
people believe implicitly in the necessity for meat at their three
daily mealy, and not only is this the case in the cooler parts of the
year, but it is practised universally during the height of the summer,
without being modified in the slightest degree. Thus the student of
ethnography is presented with the somewhat curious anomaly of a people
living in a summer temperature of 70 degrees or 80 degrees in the shade,
eating more meat than do the bulk of the inhabitants of Great Britain and
Ireland (with their ice and snow) during their winter months. It is one of
the characteristics of the Anglo-Saxon race, however, this inability to
appreciate the necessity of conforming to new climatic conditions in
which their lot may be cast. It will be the same, too, when the British
restaurant-keeper begins business in Equatorial Africa. For an absolute
certainty his bill-of-fare for the delectation of the unfortunate
colonist will consist of roast beef, Yorkshire pudding, plum pudding,
and the old familiar throng. Whether mine host has to consult the taste
of his client, or whether the latter has simply to accept what is
proffered, is not absolutely decided; probably they are both imbued
with a belief in the necessity of solid fare, regarding it as a solemn
truth beyond all possibility of cavil.
This abuse of flesh food in a climate like Australia would be serious
enough under any circumstances, but it is intensified and aggravated by
the direct unoriginality in dealing with meat. Is it not a fact that
there is no attempt whatever made to break through the conventional
chain of joints, roasted or boiled, and the inevitable grill or fry?
In how many houses does the breakfast ever consist of anything
but the ubiquitous chops, steaks, or sausages? indeed, one might almost
term them "the faith, hope, and charity" of domestic life. I remember
reading some little time ago that if a map of the world were made in
which lands of utter darkness were coloured black like the coalfields
in an atlas of physical geography, certain races would be signalised by
their opaqueness. If such a map were ever compiled, Australia would of
necessity be characterised by blackness; such a blackness, indeed, that
jet itself would be as snowy white beside it. But why should this
lamentable state of things be said of Australians, who claim to be
progressive in their ideas and advanced in their views, usages, and
customs?
In conjunction with this dietetic view of the matter, one of the
objects I have in writing is to direct attention to the great neglect
there is of vegetables, especially those of the more unknown varieties,
as an agreeable, desirable, palatable, and salutary element in the
Australian food life. One need not be a vegetarian to properly
appreciate the valuable properties of vegetables, and most people will
fare better and feel the benefit of a modification of their customary
dietary if they decrease the amount of meat they indulge in and
proportionately increase their vegetable allowance. Now, there are many
vegetables besides those ordinarily in use which might be easily
cultivated, and serve to form a pleasing variety at table. Once the
demand arises for kinds other than those usually grown, the inducement
for market-gardeners to supply them would be no longer wanting. A
reference to the catalogues furnished by the seedsmen and plant-merchants
of the different Australian metropolitan cities will show
that special attention is called to many of these vegetables, and yet I
am informed that, although they are continually inserted in the new
issues as they appear from time to time, no notice seems to be
taken of them whatever. I propose, therefore, briefly to describe some
of these comparatively unknown vegetables, and to point out their
merits and their claims for recognition.
The globe artichoke might be more frequently grown, as it is really a
good vegetable and easily cooked. It constitutes the flower head of the
CYNARA SCOLYMUS (one of the thistle family), and is gathered before the
flowers expand. The ends of the flower scales attached to the disc, and
the central disc itself, are the parts that are eaten, and they
constitute a delicately flavoured vegetable. It is extensively
cultivated in California, and is there to be met with in nearly all
hotels and restaurants. Another thing in its favour is that it is
peculiarly one of the vegetables which diabetics may indulge in without
fear. It does well in the cooler parts of Australia, and should
certainly be more generally grown.
The Jerusalem artichoke is not to be confused with the preceding, as it
belongs to a different vegetable genus altogether. It is a species of
sunflower, as its name denotes, the prefix Jerusalem being in reality a
corruption of the Italian word GIRASOLE, a sunflower. It resembles the
potato in that it is a tuberous-rooted vegetable, and grows readily
enough--in fact, perhaps it grows too readily, for once it takes
possession of the soil it is difficult to eradicate it. The Jerusalem
artichoke, however, is comparatively common here, and when cooked
properly it is a most delightful vegetable, although it may not be
sufficiently appreciated at first. It often happens that these
artichokes are of a bad colour, and too crisp when brought to table.
This is easily prevented, however, by washing and paring them like
potatoes and then placing them in a bowl of clear water, to which a few
drops of fresh lemon juice have been added. When boiled with sufficient
water to just cover them, and a liberal allowance of salt, for
20 min. to 40 min., they come out a snowy white and quite tender. They
are especially delicious when served up with melted butter and egg
sauce.
Asparagus.--Although this delicate and luscious vegetable is of the
easiest culture, and grows readily along the coast, yet to our shame be
it said that it is usually too much of a luxury for ordinary mortal, to
afford. Now, it is for the most part such a general favourite that one
may well ask why it is not more cultivated. The demand for it in
America is so great, and it yields such a good return, that some
growers, make 100 percent; and upwards yearly profit for each acre. Is
it not a severe reflection upon our market gardeners, to find that the
imported preserved varieties of asparagus are so esculent that the very
stalks, are as, luscious as the heads of the vegetable? In its fresh
state it should be eaten as soon after cutting as possible, and, like
the globe artichoke, is readily allowable to diabetics. It is somewhat
curious, too, that the asparagus, and the globe artichoke are the only
vegetables which the British race eat as, a single dish.
Brussels sprouts are the most delicate of all the borecoles, and it is
a thousand pities that this delightful vegetable is not more often to
be met with. These miniature, cabbages, however, require some little
care in their rearing, and hence amateurs often fail to reach
perfection in their cultivation. They may be boiled like cabbage, in
abundance of water and a little salt for 15 minutes, then drained,
dried, and finally tossed in butter with a little pepper and nutmeg.
They do well enough, as does the borecole or kale itself, in all the
cooler parts of Australia.
The cardoon, like the globe artichoke, belongs to the thistle family,
yet it is, more hardy and robust than the latter. It is readily grown,
particularly in the cooler districts, and, like many other of the more
unknown vegetables, is too much neglected. Its leaf-stalks
should be at least an inch and a half thick before they are ready for
cutting. They are then blanched, and when cooked recall somewhat the
flavour of the globe artichoke. These tender leaf-stalks are used in
soups and salads, and it may be boiled also in a similar manner to
sea-kale, in which latter form it is especially palatable.
The celeriac or turnip-rooted celery is a very choice vegetable, and is
much cultivated on the Continent. Its nutty root is not at all unlike
the solid root portion of common celery in taste, which by many is
considered superior in flavour to the other parts of the latter plant.
The celeriac is greatly esteemed, and is known as the CELERI-RAVE BY
the French, and as the knoll-selerie by the Germans. The latter,
indeed, are so fond of it that they call barely talk of it without
moist eyes and watery mouths. It is hardier than celery, and possesses
an advantage in that it can be taken up and stored similarly to carrots
and beets. The celerific may be boiled as a table vegetable or used for
flavouring soups, or it may be sliced for salads. It does well in all
the cooler parts, and might be cultivated with benefit, mingled with
gratitude.
The egg plant, or aubergine, does so exceedingly well, and can be so
highly recommended, that one may well wonder why it is never seen. It
is a native of Africa and tropical America, and is very popular both in
the East and West Indies. It is cultivated also a great deal in the
United States, where it is greatly appreciated for culinary use. In
AUBERGINES FARCIES, a favourite dish, they are cut in hakes, the
centres chopped and put back into the skins with oil, &c. They are then
sprinkled with breadcrumbs, and browned. It is easily grown, and it
seems unaccountable why it should be passed over.
The kohl rabi, or turnip-rooted cabbage, is another nutritious
vegetable which has inexplicably never been received into
public favour. Its delicate flavour should ensure for it a
well-established position with those who are fond of good vegetables, as
it is more tender and more savoury than either turnip or cabbage, and is
not at all unlike cauliflower in taste. For table purposes it should be
only about two-thirds grown, for if allowed to go to full size the
outside skin becomes tough and hard. It is another of those vegetables
which are so highly prized on the Continent, and it is already an
acknowledged favourite in America. It does well in all the cooler
localities, and gives a larger yield than turnips.
The salsify, or "vegetable oyster," is a typical example of a most
unaccountably slighted vegetable with us, and yet it is highly
appreciated on the continent and in the United States. The root is long
and tapering, becoming fleshy and tender by cultivation, and with a
whitish, milky-like juice. It has a rich flavour, not at all unlike
that of cooked oysters, whence it derives its value. In preparing
salsify for table the darkish outside skin requires to be lightly
scraped off, and then it should be steeped for a while in cold water so
as to remove any slight bitterness it may possess. Like parsnips, when
cooked it requires to be boiled slowly, in the smallest possible
quantity of water, until it is almost ready to melt. If boiled fast, in
abundance of water, the savour of both parsnips and salsify is to a
great extent dispersed and lost beyond recall. One of the most approved
methods of cooking salsify roots is to slowly boil them to tenderness
in the smallest possible quantity of milk, and then to mash and fry
them in butter, with salt and pepper. Cold boiled salsify, with the
addition of some chopped herbs, tarragon vinegar, and salad oil, makes
an exceedingly good salad. The salsify does well in all the cooler
regions, and, moreover, it is easily grown.
Scorzonera.--This Spanish plant is very similar to salsify,
and requires the same kind of treatment; but, being a stronger grower,
requires more room in its culture. It may be served in soups or treated
like salsify. The outside leaves should be removed before the vegetable
is cooked. The blanched leaves also are highly esteemed on the
Continent, and are used for salad purposes. It grows well in all the
cooler parts of Australia, and might certainly be introduced for the
public benefit.
Sea kale is one of those vegetables which are brought to perfection in
England, so much so that Careme, that mighty CHEF, when he came across
them in London went into ecstasies. He described them as resembling
branches of celery, which should be served like asparagus, with butter
sauce, after 20 minutes' boiling. In some respects this is verily the
most delicious of all vegetables, and as it grows well here it should
be largely cultivated, yet it is almost unknown. It is fit to rank
with, if not precede, asparagus, and as a matter of fact it is far more
profitable than the latter, so that market gardeners would have
something to gain by its introduction. Like the cabbage, it was
originally a maritime plant, and has been brought to its present state
of perfection by cultivation. It requires to be thoroughly blanched by
exclusion from light, similarly to celery, for when coloured at all it
possesses an acrid taste. Of the many ways of sending it to table, one
of the best is to boil it and serve it on toast with a little melted
butter. It should be largely cultivated, as it does well all along the
coastal parts, being, as already mentioned, a maritime plant.
Sweet corn is deservedly a great favourite with those who know of its
succulent flavour and nourishing properties. Unfortunately, however, it
is with us only in the imported tins from America, and therefore we can
only conjecture how delicious it must be when fresh. It is so
commonly met with in the fresh form in America that it is found at
nearly every dinner table. Large areas where land is not expensive are
devoted to its growth, and hundreds of acres are required annually for
the New York markets alone. It does splendidly in all parts of
Australia, and for growing children it constitutes one of the most
nutritious vegetables that can be well imagined. On this latter account
alone, therefore, it is really a matter for national regret that it is
so improperly passed over. One thing requires to be borne in mind, and
it is that the cobs of ordinary Indian corn which are seen in so many
country districts must not be confused with this sweet corn, as the
latter is entirely different.
These nutritious, although somewhat unknown vegetables, therefore,
evidently deserve to be brought into prominent notice, and once public
interest is aroused, their cultivation and ready sale will speedily
follow. At the same time it must not be forgotten that the tomato
itself had a desperate struggle for reception into public favour when
first introduced to us. It actually trembled in the balance for no
inconsiderable time, and it was some years before its good qualities
were universally recognised. To-day, however, it occupies a very
different position, and takes rank as a luscious vegetable, appreciated
by thousands of people; and besides, it is of undoubted value in many
disorders of the liver. But now that the Agricultural Colleges are in
full swing in the different colonies, notably in New South Wales,
Victoria, and South Australia, it is certain that the greatest possible
good to the whole community will result. Their effect, too, in
indirectly populating the agricultural areas of Australia will
materially aid the great work of decentralisation.
But apart altogether from this matter of the introduction of vegetables
which have hitherto been overlooked is another which is hardly
less important. I refer to the crude cookery which is bestowed on the
ordinary vegetables at present in daily use. That there is sny monotony
in an endless recurrence of boiled potatoes, boiled cabbage, boiled
this and boiled that, never seems to occur to the vast majority of
people in this country, who seem incapable of understanding that these
different vegetables are worthy of being served in an infinite number
of ways. It will doubtless shock those who cling to this beliefs but
the following remarks by Dr. Mitchell, an English physician practising
in Paris, directed against his own countrymen be it understood, are
forcible enough:--"The plain boiled potato," says he, "whatever else
it may be, is clearly a cattle food; so for the matter of that are
cabbages, carrots, turnips, beans, peas, and almost every other
vegetable when plain boiled. None of them in that condition would be
"refused by a cow in fair appetite." Now, there are so many appetising
ways of preparing vegetables for table, and at no additional expense,
that it is lamentable to find people offering no protest against this
feeble exhibition of culinary skill. Why, if there be nothing in the
preparation of vegetables for the table beyond plain boiling, it must
be acknowledged that Cookery has made mighty little progress since the
time it first came into existence.
Having seen, then, what faults exist and what improvements might be
made, it may well be asked how these latter are to be brought about,
or, rather, how can Australians be induced to life in accordance with
climatic requirements? The answer Is by no means easy. It may be said,
in truth, that till the great mass of the people recognise their food
faults, reform will not be of a national character. As I have already
said, the acceptation of that valuable and nutritious vegetable fruit,
the tomato, took years to accomplish. In the same way, I fear, a
universal recognition that excessive meat indulgence is a
climatic error will take many decades before it is an article of
national belief. In the schools, Cookery must form an all-important
part of a girl's education--not a superficial knowledge of the
science, but practical instruction, thorough, complete, real. The
dietetic properties of meat, vegetables, of salad vegetables, and of
fruit, from an Australian standpoint, should be so thoroughly
inculcated that a proper conception of their respective food values
should remain for a lifetime. The prizes for proficiency and excellence
in culinary matters, too, should be such as to render them worth the
winning, and serve as a stimulus for future exertions.
Is it not strange that so far ingenuity, universal approval, or general
consensus of opinions call it what you will, has not up till the
present given us an Australian national dish? Although tea and damper
instinctively arise in the mind when the matter is referred to, yet I
take it that we would all repel such an accusation if levelled against
us. Does the Australian, moreover, away from his native land perpetuate
his patriotism by oft partaking of this pastoral fare? Certainly not.
Well, when this national dish is composed and formally approved of by
the nation, let us devoutly trust that it will be a MACEDOINE of
vegetables, or a vegetable curry, or some well-concocted salad. It is
true that in one of the cookery books I have seen a dish of peaches,
dubbed PECHES A L'AUSTRALIENNE. It is a sort of compote of peaches, but
to the best of my belief it is simply entitled Australian for the sake
of giving it a name, and for no other reason.