MUCKROSS
Nothing more beautiful than the scene viewed from Muckross ("the place
of wild swine") can be imagined. Its woods and lawns form a large
promontory, shooting far into the lake, which the wooded isles beyond
seem almost to join, the water breaking and glancing between like tiny
bays. Muckross Abbey Mansion stands in lovely grounds, which, fringing
the slope to the water's edge, form a beautiful shore to the lake.
The scene which this point commands is unrivalled--indeed, Torc lake
(Torc, a wild boar) need fear no comparison. Toomies and Glena are
opposite, so softly outlined by the beautiful waving forests which
cling to their sides that their magnificent height is half forgotten.
In contrast the hills which rise above the Eagle's Nest are bare,
broken, almost savage.
But if it is hard to convey by words an idea of scenery in general,
more difficult is it with that of Killarney, so varied are the effects
produced under its changeful skies,
"Shining through sorrow's beam,
Saddening through sorrow's gleam."
Mr. Young, our English visitor of long ago, notices this much. In one
place he observes: "Torc was obscured by the sun shining immediately
above him, and, casting a stream of burning light on the water,
displayed an effect to describe which the pencil of a Claude alone
would be equal."
The ruined Abbey of Muckross stands in the grounds of Muckross
demesne, and was founded by a MacCarthy Mor in 1340, according to the
_Annals of the Four Masters_, upon the site of a much older church,
which was destroyed by fire. It was built for Conventual Franciscans,
and was dedicated to the Holy Trinity. The original name was Irrelagh.
The two principal parts of the ruin are the convent and the church,
the latter about 100 feet in length and 24 feet in breadth, the
steeple standing between the nave and chancel, resting on four high
and slender pointed arches.
The cloisters are in a very perfect state, consisting of a beautiful
quadrangle of marble arches, some pointed, some with semicircular
heads, enclosing a square, in the centre of which stands the great
yew-tree, said to be as old as the Abbey itself. It rises to the
height of 60 feet, its spreading branches overshadowing the cloisters
and forming a canopy, impervious to the sun. The circumference of its
trunk is 13 feet, and it is regarded with much awe because of a belief
that anyone attempting to pluck a leaf or branch, or in any way injure
this yew, will not be alive on that day twelve months.
The principal entrance is by a handsome Pointed doorway, from which is
seen the great eastern window, with its simple, beautiful tracery. The
space within is filled with tombs, many of them nameless. A large
modern one in the centre of the choir covers a vault, where in ancient
times were interred the MacCarthys, and, more lately, the O'Donoghues.
Close to this tomb is the slab which formerly covered the vault,
without inscription, but bearing the arms of the Earl of Clancarty of
the old creation, this title and that of Viscount Valentia being
bestowed by Queen Elizabeth in 1565 on Donald MacCarthy Mor, the head
of the elder branch of that great family. His haughty followers would
none of it, and slighted the chieftain who had condescended, however
grudgingly, to accept an honour at the hands of the Sassenach.
The dormitories, cellars, kitchens, refectories, etc., are in good
preservation, but the upper rooms are unroofed. There is a great
fireplace in the refectory, where once the monks kept good cheer. Very
silent and deserted it is now, with the innumerable graves around.
The great Torc Cascade empties itself into Muckross Lake a little more
than a mile from the Abbey. It comes from the Devil's Punch Bowl,
which it is worth ascending Mangerton to see. On the western side of
the mountain is a small circular lake, about 600 yards in diameter
across the top. From the brink, as you look downwards, there is a
depth of nearly 300 yards. This is the Devil's Punch Bowl. On the side
next Muckross there is an immense perpendicular chasm, equal in depth
to the height of the sides of the Bowl, into which its overflowings
rush and are conveyed through a narrow channel, called the Devil's
Stream, to the shore of Muckross Lake, tumbling down the sides of the
hill, nearly 200 feet, in a great cascade.
In the peninsula of Muckross is a mine, now disused, which, when
worked by an English company in 1804, gave a large output of the
finest copper ore.
There are many indications of mineral treasures yet to be discovered
among the hills and glens of Killarney. When Dr. Berkeley was asked
his opinion of Muckross at a time when Art was considered far superior
to Nature, he replied: "The French monarch might possibly be able to
create another Versailles, but could not, with all his revenues, lay
out another Muckross."