water, add two slices of onion, cover closely and cook gently ten
minutes to the pound. Transfer to a dripping-pan, rub with butter,
dredge with flour, and brown in a quick oven. Strain and cool the gravy
left in the pot, take off the fat, put the gravy into a saucepan,
season with pepper, salt and a little kitchen bouquet, and thicken with
a heaping tablespoonful of brown roux. Boil up once and serve in a
gravy-boat, or pour around the base of the beef.
Savory ragout of beef
Cut a round beefsteak into inch-squares. Fry minced salt pork in a pan
until you have enough fat to fry the meat, then remove the bits of pork
and lay in the meat, each piece of which must first be rolled in flour.
When the meat is brown at the edges, add to the fat two tablespoonfuls
of flour that has been lightly browned, stir in a pint of weak stock,
or, if you have not that, of boiling water; stir to a brown sauce, and
return the meat to it, throwing in, at the same time, a minced onion.
Leave the meat at the side of the range where it will cook very slowly
for three-quarters of an hour. Now, season to taste with salt, add a
bay leaf and a little kitchen bouquet. A little Worcestershire sauce
is thought by some to be an improvement. Cover again and cook, still
slowly, for over an hour, or until the meat is very tender. Stir in two
tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and turn out upon a heated platter.
Beef hot pot
Two pounds of beef ribs; one tablespoonful of dripping; two chopped
onions and six tiny green peppers, four slices of toast, a little black
pepper, chives, vinegar, thyme, raisins, olives, tomatoes to taste, all
minced.
Heat the dripping in a saucepan, put into it the ingredients (leave
the peppers whole, and mince the chives), cover closely and stew until
boiled to rags. Thicken with butter rolled in browned flour. Serve on
toast.
Boiled beef tongue (smoked)
Wash the tongue well and soak four hours in tepid water. Put over the
fire in plenty of cold water and cook twelve minutes to the pound after
the boil begins. Let it get cold in the water; pare and trim neatly,
and garnish with small green pickles.
Braised fresh beef’s tongue (No. 1)
Wash the tongue and boil for half an hour. Trim away the root and the
tough edges.
Fry a sliced onion in three tablespoonfuls of dripping. Strain out the
onion and lay the tongue in the frying-pan. Cook ten minutes, turning
twice. Remove to your covered roaster; lay upon the grating and dredge
with flour. Pour the fat over it; add a large cupful of boiling water
and cook, closely covered, for an hour and a half, basting four times.
Take up and keep hot over boiling water while you skim off the fat, and
thicken with browned flour. Season with paprika, onion juice, salt and
half a cupful of strained tomato sauce.
Dish the tongue and pour the gravy over it. Send around horseradish
sauce with it.
Sauce for braised tongue
Cook together in a saucepan a tablespoonful, each, of butter and flour
until they bubble. Into a half-pint cup put a couple of teaspoonfuls
of vinegar, fill up the cup with boiling water, and turn this on the
butter and flour. Stir until thick and smooth. Just before taking from
the fire stir in a tablespoonful of grated horseradish. Let it get hot,
and serve.
Braised fresh tongue (No. 2)
Clean, and boil for an hour, leaving in the water for fifteen minutes
after taking it from the fire. Trim neatly. Skewer the tip and root of
the tongue together and lay in your covered roaster upon a layer of
sliced onion, carrot, celery, tomatoes, and minced parsley. Cover with
the same; add a cupful of the water in which the tongue was boiled, fit
on your cover and cook slowly for two hours. Dish the tongue and keep
hot. Rub gravy and vegetables through the colander, into a saucepan;
thicken with browned flour. Lay the tongue in a bake-pan; pour the
gravy over it, and set upon the top grating of an oven to brown. Dish,
pour the gravy about the tongue and serve. Eat mushroom sauce with it.
Mushroom sauce for the above
Wash the mushrooms, wipe and peel them, then cut into tiny dice. Stir
in a little of the gravy from the tongue; season with salt and paprika;
add a lump of butter rolled in browned flour and cook two minutes.
A little lemon juice improves the flavor.
An Italian entrée of beef’s tongue
This is a good way to warm up the remains of a boiled or roast fresh
tongue. Slice, cover with oil and lemon-juice, and leave in the
marinade for one hour. Then add salt, pepper, some sliced onion,
a little parsley and a few mushrooms cut into halves. Place in a
frying-pan and cook slowly for about fifteen minutes, moistening with
a tablespoonful of sherry and a little lemon juice; just before taking
from the fire add a little brown stock, and a little tomato sauce,
well-seasoned.
Boiled beef’s tongue
Wash well and cook in salted, boiling water until a steel skewer goes
easily into the thickest part. Leave in the water for fifteen minutes,
trim, and lay on a hot dish. Pour sauce tartare over it and send more
around with it.
Boiled beef’s heart
Wash the heart and soak for half an hour in cold, salted water. Wipe
and stuff the ventricles with a forcemeat of bread-crumbs and chopped
ham or salt pork, minced fine and well seasoned. Sew up in cheese-cloth
fitted to the heart, and bring slowly to a boil in salted water, to
which a tablespoon of vinegar has been added. Boil gently two hours,
turning the heart several times.
Remove the cloth and dish the heart. Pour a piquante sauce over it.
The heart is made more savory if you will boil it in weak stock instead
of water.
Roast beef’s heart
Prepare as directed in last recipe, but roast instead of boiling,
laying the heart upon a bed of minced onion and tomatoes, and pouring
in a little hot water to make the gravy. Rub this through a colander,
thicken with browned flour, season to taste and pour over the heart.
How to corn beef
Mix salt with saltpeter in the proportion of ten parts of the first to
one of the second, and with this rub the piece of beef to be corned
until the salt lies dry upon the surface. Let it stand in a cold place
for twenty-four hours and repeat the process, and the next day put it
into pickle. This is made by boiling together for ten minutes a gallon
of salt, four ounces of saltpeter, and a pound and a half of brown
sugar in five gallons of water. The meat should not be put into the
pickle until the latter is perfectly cold. Leave it in the pickle and
take it out as needed, looking after it once in a while to see if it is
keeping well. If not, take the meat out, rub it well with dry salt, and
prepare a fresh and stronger brine.
How to corn a tongue
Put into a saucepan a gallon and a half of water, a half-pound of brown
sugar, two and a quarter ounces of salt and a half-ounce of saltpeter.
Boil for half an hour, skim and, when cold, pour over the tongue.
It should be ready for use in a week.
Boiled corned beef
Soak for an hour in cold water. Put over the fire in plenty of cold
water. Put into the pot with it a peeled carrot and a small onion, and
for a gallon of water a tablespoonful of vinegar. Cook slowly, allowing
twenty-five minutes to the pound if very salt, or if the meat has lain
in the brine for some weeks. Let it lie in the liquor for half an hour
after it is done. Lift it then, trim away ragged edges, lay on a hot
dish and wash all over with butter in which has been beaten the juice
of half a lemon.
Strain a cupful of the liquor; stir into it a tablespoonful of butter
rolled in one of flour, boil two minutes and add a great spoonful of
minced pickles, or of capers. Some like to use pickled onions for this
purpose.
Send around horseradish and mustard with it.
When it leaves the table put a plate with a heavy weight upon it, and
leave thus all night.
VEAL
Roast leg of veal
Wipe a leg of veal with a damp cloth and place it in a covered roaster.
Dash a cupful of boiling water over the meat, cover it closely and cook
at the rate of twenty minutes to the pound. Half an hour before the
meat is taken from the oven remove the cover from the roaster, baste
the meat with the gravy in the pan, and brown.
Shoulder of veal
This may be roasted, like the leg, but is better for having the bone
removed, and the cavity thus left filled with a forcemeat made of
bread-crumbs and chopped ham, seasoned to taste.
Veal cutlets
Wipe the cutlets with a damp cloth, dip them, first, in beaten egg,
then in cracker dust, and set in a cold place for an hour. Fry in
dripping to a rich brown. Cook slowly that they may be thoroughly done.
Lay for a moment on brown paper to drain free of grease, and put on a
hot platter. Serve with tomato sauce.
Veal steaks with mushroom sauce
Broil the steaks slowly over a clear fire, turning often that they may
not scorch. When done, keep the meat hot on a platter in the oven while
you make the following sauce:
Drain the liquor from a can of mushrooms and cut the mushrooms in
halves. Cook together a tablespoonful of butter and one of browned
flour until they are dark brown in color. Pour upon them the mushroom
liquor and a cupful of beef stock. Stir to a smooth sauce, season with
a dash of Worcestershire sauce, salt and pepper, and add the halved
mushrooms. Cook for two minutes, stirring constantly, then pour over
and around the veal steaks.
Breast of veal á la jardiniére
Lard with strips of fat salt pork, and sprinkle with paprika. Dredge
with flour and lay upon the grating of your covered roaster, add enough
boiling water to cover it barely, and roast for an hour, basting with
the gravy every ten or fifteen minutes. Then turn on the other side and
spread over the roast a pint of tomatoes peeled and sliced, two onions,
chopped fine, two sprigs of parsley, chopped fine, and two chopped
peppers. Baste for another hour every ten minutes. When the meat is
removed keep hot while you take up the vegetables with a split spoon,
and keep them hot also. Strain the gravy, thicken with browned flour,
and put into a boat. Lay the vegetables about the meat upon a metal or
fire-proof dish, dredge this last with browned crumbs, and dot with
softened butter. Set upon the top grating of the oven for five minutes
to brown and send to table in the dish.
Stuffed roast fillet of veal
Take out the central bone and skewer the fillet into a neat round. Make
a forcemeat of crumbs, minced pork, onion juice, parsley and half a can
of mushrooms, minced. Wet with a few spoonfuls of stock or gravy; fill
the bone-hole and ram the stuffing into the folds of the meat from both
sides. Lay on your covered roaster, cover with very thin slices of
fat salt pork, and dash a cupful of boiling water over top and sides.
Roast, covered, twelve minutes to the pound. Fifteen minutes before you
draw it from the oven remove the pork, wash with butter and dredge with
browned flour. Then brown, uncovered.
The fillet should be basted four times while roasting. After the fourth
basting draw off a cupful of gravy from the dripping-pan, set on ice,
or in cold water until the fat rises, skim, add four tablespoonfuls
of strained tomato juice, thicken with browned flour, and cook three
minutes before pouring into a gravy-boat.
Roast breast of veal
Cook as you would the fillet, running a sharp knife between ribs and
meat to make space for the stuffing.
Serve spinach with it.
Breaded veal cutlets
Roll the cutlets in fine crumbs, salted and peppered; dip into beaten
egg, then again in crumbs. Set on ice for an hour to get firm, and fry
in deep fat, turning three times, carefully. Cook slowly after the
first five minutes. Underdone veal is unwholesome and unpalatable.
Drain off the fat, and serve in a heated dish. Send around horseradish
or tomato sauce with them, and accompany with spinach.
Mock squabs
Have six or eight slices cut from a loin of veal, half an inch thick,
about seven inches long and four wide. Make a forcemeat of crumbs, fat
pork, and minced mushrooms seasoned with paprika, onion juice and a
little lemon juice with a suspicion of grated lemon-peel. Moisten with
a beaten egg and cover with this each slice of meat nearly to the edge,
roll up tightly and tie with twine, or fasten with wooden skewers.
Dredge with salt, pepper and flour, roast them as previously directed,
golden-brown. Be very careful that they do not brown or become too
highly colored. When nearly done add cream to almost cover and let
them simmer about fifteen minutes or until quite tender. Remove the
strings, arrange the “squabs” on toast, garnish with water-cress, and
pour a little of the strained cream over each. Serve with asparagus or
spinach.
Larded veal
Have a solid piece cut from the thickest part of the shoulder. Lard at
short intervals with strips of fat salt pork and put into your covered
roaster with sliced carrot, onion, bits of celery and a few sprigs
of parsley; over all pour a large cupful of good stock, cover and
cook slowly for about three hours. You should baste frequently while
cooking, and a short time before it is done remove the cover, to cook
the larding thoroughly and give a good color to the veal.
Just before taking up pour out a cupful of gravy, skim off the fat and
thicken with browned flour, add a great spoonful of tomato catsup, and
simmer until you are ready to dish the meat. Pour then into a boat.
Roast calves’ hearts
You will need two hearts for a dish of moderate size. Wash them
thoroughly, leaving in salt and water for an hour, to draw out the
blood. Run a slender, keen knife from the large end of each heart
straight to the center, turning it around several times to make a
central hole for the forcemeat stuffing. Make this of cracker crumbs
highly seasoned with onion juice, salt and pepper, thyme or marjoram.
Moisten with melted butter, or use hot water and a little fat pork or
bacon finely chopped. Sew the opening together, and thrust in several
lardoons of salt pork. Dredge with salt, pepper and flour. Fry one
sliced onion in dripping in a frying-pan. Put in the heart and brown it
lightly all over. Pour in stock to cover it—barely—add a bay leaf, two
slices of carrot and one teaspoonful of salt. Cover the pan and cook in
a moderate oven about two hours, or until very tender.
[Illustration: ROAST BEEF
VEAL CHOPS AND SPINACH
MOCK PIGEONS
BOILED CALF’S HEAD
VEAL AND BEEF]
When done remove the strings, put the hearts upon a hot dish, and
thicken the gravy with browned flour. Add lemon juice and other
seasoning if needed. Strain over the hearts. Garnish with Parisian
potatoes alternately with small tomatoes, pared and baked. Pour melted
butter and minced parsley over potatoes and tomatoes.
Larded liver
Wash a calf’s or lamb’s liver, lard it with narrow strips of salt pork,
and put it into a covered roaster. Pour over the liver a pint of cold
beef stock and cover the pan closely. Set in a moderate oven and cook
an hour and a half. Transfer the liver to a deep dish and put the pan
containing the gravy on the top of the range. Thicken the gravy with
a heaping tablespoonful of browned flour and add to it a cupful of
strained tomato liquor, a teaspoonful of onion juice, salt and pepper
to taste. Boil up once and pour over the liver.
Salmi of liver
Boil a calf’s liver for one hour in slightly salted water, and let it
get cold. Cut into dice of uniform size, and for each cupful allow one
tablespoonful of butter, one cupful of stock, one teaspoonful of tomato
sauce, and two tablespoonfuls of chopped olives. Brown the butter, add
one tablespoonful of flour and brown again; add gradually the stock,
and stir until smooth and thick. Put in the catsup, olives and liver
dice, season to taste, and simmer for fifteen minutes. Serve hot.
A delightful and not inelegant _entrée_.
Roast sweetbreads
Parboil two pairs of sweetbreads and blanch by throwing them into cold
water. Drain, pierce three or four holes in each and press into these
holes narrow strips of fat salt pork, allowing the strips to project a
half-inch on each side. Lay the sweetbreads in a roasting-pan, pour a
cupful of weak veal stock over them and rub them with melted butter.
Cover and bake for twenty-five minutes; remove from the pan, sprinkle
with salt and pepper, put a spoonful of the thickened and seasoned
gravy upon each, and send to the table.
Baked calf’s head
The head should be cleaned with the skin left on, also the ears, and
split down the under side, leaving the top unbroken. Remove the tongue
and brains, parboil and set them on ice. Put the head on in plenty of
cold water, boil quickly and for one minute after the boiling point is
reached. Take the head off and lay in ice-cold water. Change this for
colder in ten minutes, and leave in this for several hours.
Then put over the fire in boiling water, to which a tablespoonful of
vinegar has been added, and a tablespoonful of salt. Cook gently until
you can slip out the bones easily.
Do this, drawing the teeth, cheek-bones and skull, taking care not
to break the upper skin. Put into a bake-dish, restoring the shape
as well as you can. Cut the tongue into slices and lay close against
the cheeks; wash plentifully with butter rubbed to a cream with lemon
juice, sift dry crumbs all over it and bake, covered, half an hour.
Then brown.
To make the gravy, rub the brains to a soft paste; pepper and salt,
season with tomato catsup and onion juice, add enough of the liquor
in which the head was boiled to make a boatful of gravy, thicken with
butter rolled in flour, simmer five minutes and serve.
There is no more savory preparation of calf’s head than this. It goes
to table in the bake-dish. The liquor from the pot in which it had the
second boiling makes excellent soup stock.
Boiled calf’s head
Boil as directed in last recipe, but do not blanch or bone. When it
has been cooked tender, dish, with the tongue (which should have been
boiled with it), sliced and laid against the cheeks, and pour over it a
brain gravy, made as for the baked head, with the addition of a great
spoonful of minced olives.
Mock turtle
Boil and blanch a calf’s head, take out the bones and let the meat and
tongue get cold in the liquor. Do not let it remain long enough to
jelly. As soon as the meat is firm take it from the stock, wipe dry,
and cut with the tongue into neat dice an inch long, and half as wide.
Make a gravy of a large cupful of the pot liquor, thickened with butter
rolled in browned flour and seasoned with lemon and onion juice, a
teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet, a little salt and paprika. Put in the
meat, and simmer fifteen minutes.
Have ready a sauce made by heating a cupful of cream (adding a pinch
of soda) and pour it, stirring all the time, upon the beaten yolks
of three eggs. Stir and beat for one minute, and add to the meat and
gravy. Now add a glass of sherry and pour all into a deep dish, in
which you have laid a pile of turtle eggs made by rubbing together the
yolks of three hard-boiled eggs and the boiled brains of the calf,
binding them with a raw egg and a little browned flour. They should
be made into little marbles with floured hands and cooked in boiling
butter for two minutes, then fished out and drained in a colander.
A delicious _entrée_!
Calf’s liver á la jardiniére
Lard a large liver with strips of fat salt pork. Cover the bottom
of a large saucepan with a carrot and a young turnip (all cut into
dice), six very small onions, a handful of green peas and the same of
string beans cut into short lengths. Lay the liver upon these, pepper
it and pour in a cupful of stock, or a cupful of hot water in which a
tablespoonful of butter has been melted. Cover closely and cook an hour
and a half without opening. In a bake-pan cook four peeled tomatoes of
medium size. Take up the liver and the vegetables, the latter with a
split spoon. Lay the liver upon a hot dish, group the vegetables (the
tomatoes included), each of a kind together, about it; keep hot in the
oven while you strain the gravy into a saucepan, add a great spoonful
of catsup and a tablespoonful of browned flour wet with cold water, and
cook for one minute. Pour a few spoonfuls over liver and vegetables,
the rest into a boat.
Casserole of calf’s liver
Wash and wipe a calf’s liver perfectly dry. Fry a few slices of fat
bacon in a pan until the fat is all fried out. Strain and return the
fat to the pan, lay in the liver and fry two minutes on each side,
and then put into the casserole; add one pint of rich brown sauce, a
cupful of button onions that have been browned in butter and three
tablespoonfuls of lemon juice. Fasten on the cover with a flour and
water paste, put in a moderate, steady oven, and cook for two hours.
Then remove the paste from the cover, put in potato balls that have
been fried in hot fat, and send to the table in the casserole.
Fried brains for garnishing
Soak the brains in cold water for an hour, cover with fresh, cold water
and bring to a boil. Cook for three minutes; drain, and set in a cold
place for an hour. Cut in thick slices, sprinkle with salt and white
pepper; dip in beaten egg, roll in cracker dust and set in a cold place
long enough for the coating to stiffen. Fry in deep cottolene or other
fat.
Scallop of calf’s brain
Soak brains in cold water for an hour, then boil for ten minutes.
Drop into iced water, and when very cold cut into tiny dice. Butter a
pudding dish, put in a layer of the brains, sprinkle with pepper, bits
of butter and a few drops of onion juice; then put in a thin layer of
minced ham. Add more brains, and proceed in this way until the dish
is full. Sprinkle the top with buttered crumbs, pour a cupful of veal
stock over all, and bake for twenty minutes.
Brain croquettes for garnishing
Prepare the brains as in the preceding recipe, chop and add to them
butter, salt and pepper to taste. Into each cupful of the mixture stir
a tablespoonful of crumbs and moisten all with cream. Heat in a double
boiler, and when the boiling point is reached whip in slowly a beaten
egg, and remove the mixture from the fire. Turn upon a dish to cool and
stiffen before forming into small croquettes. Crumb these and set on
the ice for two hours. Fry in deep, boiling cottolene or other fat.
Any dish of liver or calf’s head—in fact of veal in any form—is made
elegant by a garnish of brains, fried as croquettes, or in slices.
MUTTON
Roast leg of mutton with sorrel sauce
Wipe a leg of young mutton with a damp cloth, then with a dry. Put into
a covered roaster, dash a cupful of boiling water over it and roast at
the rate of twelve minutes to each pound of the meat. Fifteen minutes
before serving remove the cover and brown. If you do not use a covered
roaster baste the meat every fifteen minutes, while cooking, with the
gravy in the pan.
Do not send made mutton gravy to the table with it. Pass currant jelly
with it and such a sauce as this:
Mince a cupful of field sorrel—young and tender—and stir two
tablespoonfuls of butter rubbed into one of browned flour into a cupful
of boiling water. Add the sorrel, a dash of paprika and salt. Cook for
one minute, take from the fire and beat into it, a very little at a
time, the well-whipped yolk of an egg. Set in boiling water until the
mutton is served. It must not cook.
Boiled leg of mutton
Carefully trim the meat, cutting off all loose or gristly portions, and
wipe with a damp cloth. Have a kettle of boiling water and put in the
meat, boiling fast for about ten minutes, when it may simmer until
done. Do not put in salt or pepper until nearly cooked. Eat with caper
sauce.
The water in which the mutton is boiled makes excellent Scotch broth,
or plain mutton soup.
Roast shoulder of mutton
Carefully remove the bone, or shoulder blade, and fill the place with
this forcemeat: One cupful of fine bread-crumbs, one tablespoonful of
chopped parsley, one teaspoonful of chopped onion, salt and pepper to
taste, a half-dozen chopped mushrooms—canned or fresh—and melted butter
to moisten the mixture. Sew up the slit left by the bone, and place in
the covered roaster with a cupful of water or weak stock. Cook quickly
at first, basting often, and allowing for cooking about fifteen minutes
to the pound. Serve with sorrel or other meat sauce, never with made
gravy.
Pass string-beans, tomatoes, green peas or young turnips with it.
Stuffed shoulder of lamb