Marches and Battles.
Entering the Lake.--Dangerous Navigation.--The Return to
Camp.--Feast upon Horse Flesh.--Meeting the Indians.--Joyful
Meeting.--Return to Fort Hall.--Feasting at the Fort.--The Party
Diminished.--The Journey down Snake River.--Crossing the Sierra
Nevada.--Carson Rescues Fremont.--Fort Sutter.--Heroic
Achievement of Carson.--Disbanding the Party.--The third
Expedition.--Crossing the Desert.--Threatened by the
Mexicans.--Fight with the Indians.--The Surprise.--Chastisement
of the Indians.
The morning of the ninth of September dawned upon our voyagers remarkably
serene and beautiful. They hurried through breakfast to make an early
start. The water was found so shallow, at the mouth of the river, that it
would not float the boat. They were compelled to take off their clothes
and wade through the soft mud for the distance of a mile, dragging the
boat, when they came to deep water. The whole wide marshy expanse seemed
to be covered with waterfowl of every description, filling the air with
their discordant voices. Though it was calm, there was quite a heavy swell
upon the ocean-like lake. The waters were of crystal clearness, though so
thoroughly saturated with salt that the spray left a saline crust upon the
clothing.
They reached the island and ascended its loftiest peak, which was about
eight hundred feet high. It is almost certain that never since the
creation had a white man's foot trod that summit.
"As we looked," writes Colonel Fremont, "over the vast expanse of water
spread out beneath us, and strained our eyes along the silent shore, over
which hung so much doubt and uncertainty, I could hardly repress the
desire to continue our exploration. But the lengthening snow on the
mountains, spreading farther and farther, was a plain indication of the
advancing season, and our frail linen boat appeared so insecure that I was
unwilling to trust our lives to the uncertainties of the lake. I therefore
unwillingly resolved to terminate our survey here and to remain satisfied
for the present with what we had been able to add to the unknown geography
of the region. We felt also pleasure in remembering that we were the first
who, in the traditionary annals of the country, had visited the island and
broken with the cheerful sound of human voices, the long solitude of the
place.
"Out of the drift-wood on the beach, we made ourselves pleasant little
lodges, open to the water, and, after having kindled large fires, to
excite the wonder of any straggling savage on the lake shores, lay down,
for the first time in a long journey, in perfect security, no one thinking
about his arms. The evening was extremely bright and pleasant. But the
wind rose during the night, and the waves began to break heavily, making
our island tremble. I had not expected, in our inland journey, to hear the
roar of an ocean surf. The strangeness of our situation, and the
excitement we felt, in the associated interests of the place, made this
one of the most interesting nights I remember during our long expedition."
The next morning they set out at an early hour, on their return to the
main land, about nine miles distant. When they had rowed about three miles
the clouds gathered, menacing a storm, and a strong wind rose, blowing
directly against them. The heavy sea which they encountered caused a
leakage in the air chambers of the boat, and they were in imminent danger
of finding a grave in the bottom of the lake. It was with much difficulty
that a man, stationed at the bellows, supplied the chamber with air as
fast as it escaped.
At length they effected a landing on marshy ground, about nine miles from
the encampment. Two men were immediately dispatched to the camp to bring
horses to take back the boat and baggage.
"The rude looking shelter," writes Colonel Fremont, "we raised on the
shore, our scattered baggage and boat lying on the beach made quite a
picture. We called this the fisherman's camp."
The horses arrived in the afternoon. It was then blowing such a gale that
a man could hardly stand against it. The water of the lake was rapidly
rising, forced in by the wind. Very hurriedly they packed their baggage
and had scarcely left the spot ere it was entirely submerged. They reached
the camp in the edge of the evening, just in time to escape a thunder
storm, which blackened the sky and deluged the earth with rain. The next
day they remained at the camp, and boiled down five gallons of lake water
which yielded fourteen pints of very fine white salt. The ensuing morning
was calm and beautiful, as is almost invariably the case during the summer
and autumnal months, throughout all that region.
They now commenced their return by the same route they had already
traversed, ascending the valley of the Bear river towards the north. Day
after day they journeyed on, without meeting much game, and their supply
of food was nearly exhausted. All the party seemed low-spirited, and
trudged along in silence. Scarcely a word was spoken. On the night of the
fourteenth they encamped on the bank of a crystal stream. It was a lovely
evening, serene and mild. But the company seemed very forlorn from
hunger. Colonel Fremont therefore consented that a fat young horse, which
he had purchased of the Indians, should be killed for food. As the company
gathered around their brilliant camp-fires, feasted on the savory horse
steak, the customary good-humor and gayety were restored.
The next day, as they were still ascending the valley, they came upon two
families of Snake Indians who were gathering herbs and roots. The berries
they were drying on buffalo robes. These two families had twelve or
fifteen horses grazing around their encampment. Soon after this they
encountered a solitary Indian, who had an antelope which he had killed.
They purchased the antelope and encamped early to enjoy the rich feast.
While they were protracting the pleasures of their repast, a messenger
came galloping into their camp saying that Mr. Fitzpatrick was within a
few miles of them, with an ample supply of provisions. They could scarcely
sleep that night for joy. The next morning before sunrise they were on the
move and soon rejoined their friends. Together they continued their
journey to the northward, encountering several lodges of Snake Indians; of
whom they purchased about a bushel of dried berries.
Leaving the valley of the Bear river they crossed over to Snake river, or
as it is sometimes called, Lewis's Fork of the Columbia river. On their
way they met an Indian family on horseback, who had been gathering what
are called service berries. At night fires were seen burning all along the
mountainsides, indicating numerous encampments of the Indians. But they
were all friendly, and the weary voyagers slept with a very happy and
grateful sense of security. On the eighteenth they entered the spacious
valley of the Snake river, near its upper waters. The next morning the
snow began to fall and it continued snowing all day.
They were now very near Fort Hall. They therefore encamped, and Colonel
Fremont rode up to the fort and purchased several horses, and five fat
oxen. The arrival of the oxen, giving promise of such good cheer, was
received with shouts of joy. Though night came down upon the wanderers,
cold and stormy, rousing fires and smoking steaks made all happy.
For several days the party remained in their encampment. They had
journeyed from the frontier of Missouri, thirteen hundred and twenty-three
miles. Though winter had come on thus early, and both game and forage were
known to be scarce along the route they were about to travel, Colonel
Fremont decided to continue his explorations, regardless of ice and cold.
He thought it, however, expedient to diminish the number of his party.
Accordingly he assembled the men, informed them of his intention, and of
the great hardships to which they would doubtless be exposed. Thus he
persuaded eleven men to withdraw from the expedition, and return to the
States.
With the lessened party, about twenty in number, Colonel Fremont
recommenced his journey, on the twenty-second of September, down the
valley of the river towards the mouth of the Columbia. We have not space
here to record the many interesting events of this journey. The Colonel
bears constant and affectionate testimony to the services rendered by Kit
Carson. After travelling six or seven hundred miles, they reached Fort
Dalles, then passing directly south, through the very heart of the Oregon
territory, they made a thorough exploration of Klamath Lake, to its
extreme southern border.
Thence they started for California. It was necessary to cross a ridge of
the Sierra Nevada mountains. The snow was six feet deep on a level. The
toils and sufferings of the men were dreadful. There was neither game nor
forage to be found. Many of the mules died of starvation. One incident,
which occurred during this dreadful march, we give in the words of Colonel
Fremont. Under date of February 23rd he writes:
"This was our most difficult day. We were forced off the ridges, by the
quantity of snow among the timber, and obliged to take to the mountain
sides, where occasionally rocks and a southern exposure afforded us a
chance to scramble along. But these were steep, and slippery with snow and
ice, and the tough evergreens of the mountain impeded our way, tore our
skins, and exhausted our patience. Some of us had the misfortune to wear
moccasins, with soles of buffalo hide, so slippery that we could not keep
our feet, and generally we crawled along the snow beds. Axes and mauls
were necessary to make a road through the snow.
"Going ahead with Carson, to reconnoitre the road, we reached, this
afternoon, the river which made the outlet of the lake. Carson sprang
over, clear across a place where the stream was compressed among the
rocks. But the sole of my moccasin glanced from the icy rock, and
precipitated me into the river. It was some few seconds before I could
recover myself in the current, and Carson thinking me hurt, jumped in
after me, and we both had an icy bath. We tried to search a while for my
gun, which had been lost in the fall, but the cold drove us out. Making a
large fire on the bank, after we had partially dried ourselves, we went
back to meet the camp. We afterwards found that the gun had been slung
under the ice which lined the shores of the creek."
Upon reaching the southern declivity of the mountains, Fremont and Carson,
with six others, pushed ahead to Fort Sutter where, it will be remembered,
the gold of California was first discovered. The whole party reached the
fort on the sixth of March, 1844. These extraordinary men, in the depths
of winter, had travelled from Fort Hall about two thousand miles. They
remained at the Fort recruiting but a fortnight. A braver enterprise
history does not record. Its successful accomplishment sent the name of
John C. Fremont, its leader, on the wings of fame, throughout the
civilized world. We have no space to record the vastly important results
accomplished by this exploration.
Upon leaving the fort, on their return towards the States, they met a
Mexican and a little boy, who were in great destitution and grief. They
had been left with a band of six, among whom were the boy's father and
mother, to watch their animals grazing in a fertile meadow. They were
suddenly attacked by a party of thirty Indians, who either captured or
killed all of the party except the man and the boy, who fortunately
escaped. The Indians fled with their booty. The poor boy was overwhelmed
with grief. He had every reason to fear that both of his parents were
dead.
Kit Carson's heart was touched. He proposed to Richard Godoy, an
experienced and noble-hearted mountaineer, that they two should pursue the
thirty Indian warriors, rescue the captives, and regain the animals. They
soon struck the Indian trail and followed it nearly all the night. The
Indians, not apprehensive of pursuit, were travelling leisurely. Towards
morning, Carson and his companion halted for an hour or two, to allow
their horses to graze and to get a little sleep. At daybreak they were
again in the saddle, and just at sunrise discovered the Indians in a snug
little valley, feasting luxuriously upon horse-steaks. They had already
killed five of the stolen animals.
These two men immediately charged, with a loud shout, upon the thirty
warriors. The savages were taken utterly by surprise, and thrown into a
panic. Carson's practiced eye selected the chief, who instantly fell
pierced through the heart by a bullet from Carson's rifle. Godoy missed
his aim, but instantly reloading, another warrior dropped in his blood.
The Indians, not doubting that the two were but the advance party of a
strong force, fled with precipitation, abandoning everything. Deliberately
Carson collected the horses, counted them and found that they had them
all, excepting the five the thieves had killed.
They then followed the trail back to the spot where the savages had
attacked the Mexicans. The captives had all been killed and their bodies
had been shockingly mangled. Carson and his heroic companion, with fifteen
horses, rejoined the camp. The property was at once restored to the
Mexicans without any remuneration whatever being received by either of
these men for their exploit. They had been absent from the camp thirty
hours, and had ridden over a hundred miles.
The march was now resumed and, after a tedious journey of many leagues,
they reached Fort Bent on the second of July, where the exploring party
was disbanded. Colonel Fremont proceeded to Washington. Kit Carson
returned to Taos. Thinking that he had had enough of wandering, he decided
to become a farmer, that he might reside at home with his family. He
purchased quite a large tract of land a little out from the straggling
village of Taos, and commenced farming upon a pretty large scale.
As he was very busy erecting his buildings and breaking up the soil, an
express arrived from Colonel Fremont, stating that he was about to set out
on a third exploring tour and that he should depend upon Mr. Carson's
accompanying him. He also reminded him of a promise once given that he
would be ever ready to heed such a call.
Mr. Carson had made large investments in buildings, stock, farming
utensils, etc. With Mr. Owens, who had been his companion on a former
trip, Mr. Carson set out for Fort Bent, where he met with a very cordial
welcome from Colonel Fremont. We cannot follow the party, in its long and
adventurous wanderings, along the ravines, across the prairies, and over
the mountains, until they reached the lower extremity of the Great Salt
Lake. Before them towards the west spread out a vast desert, of unknown
extent. No white man had ever crossed it. Colonel Fremont decided that it
was his duty to explore it. His men were always ready to follow their bold
chieftain.
Kit Carson and three others were sent forward to mark out the road by
their trail. Should they find grass and water, they were to build a fire,
the smoke of which would convey the joyful intelligence to Colonel
Fremont, who was watching, spy-glass in hand, from a neighboring eminence.
For sixty miles they travelled without finding a drop of water, or a blade
of grass. Then suddenly they came upon both in abundance; an oasis in the
desert.
Carson built a rousing fire, piling on the green wood to make as much
smoke as possible. Notwithstanding the great distance, the glass of
Fremont discerned the billowy signal, ascending through the serene skies.
His party was at once put in motion, and after a weary march reached their
companions. They thence pressed on to Sutter's Fort, where they could only
obtain moderate supplies. On the trip they had divided into two parties
and one of them had wandered and got lost. Mr. Carson was sent to hunt
them up. With his usual skill and promptitude, he accomplished his
mission, and brought the lost party safely to the fort. They then directed
their course to Monterey, on the sea coast, where they could obtain all
they needed. When within thirty miles of the place, an express arrived
from General Castro, the Mexican commander of the territory, ordering
Colonel Fremont and his party to leave the country or he would compel them
to do so.
Instead of obeying this order, Colonel Fremont, with but forty men under
his command, immediately selected a good military position, and prepared
for a defence. General Castro soon appeared with several hundred troops,
infantry, cavalry and artillery, and established himself within a few
hundred yards of the Fremont camp. The two parties watched each other for
three days. Colonel Fremont then, satisfied that the Mexicans would not
assume the offensive, and that it would be rash to attempt to force his
way against so powerful a foe, turned his steps north to the Sacramento
river, and thence to the mouth of the Columbia.
On the route they met a thousand Indian warriors. They were armed only
with arrows and javelins. A fierce battle ensued. The Indians were
repelled with heavy loss. Mr. Carson thinks that in that conflict, they
became convinced that with their weapons, they could never hope to
vanquish the rifle-armed white men. Upon this trip they also learned that
war had broken out between the United States and Mexico. The express which
brought this intelligence informed Fremont that a United States officer
was in the rear, with a few men in imminent peril.
Colonel Fremont took Carson and ten other picked men, and hastened to the
rescue. Mr. Carson himself gives the following account of a tragic scene
which soon took place. The narrative was given in a letter published in
the Washington Union of June, 1847:
"Mr. Gillespie had brought the Colonel letters from home and he was up,
and kept a large fire burning until after midnight. This was the only
night, in all our travels, except the one night on the island in Salt
Lake, that we failed to keep guard. As the men were so tired and we
expected no attack now that we had sixty in the party, the Colonel did not
like to ask it of them, but sat up late himself. Owens and I were sleeping
together, and we were waked at the same time by the licks of the axe that
killed our men. At first I did not know it was that, but I called to Basil
who was on that side:
"'What's the matter there? What's that fuss about?'
"He never answered for he was dead then, poor fellow, and he never knew
what killed him. His head had been cut in, in his sleep. The Delawares, we
had four with us, were sleeping at that fire, and they sprang up as the
Klamaths charged them. One of them caught up a gun which was unloaded, but
although he could do no execution he kept them at bay like a soldier, and
did not give up till he was shot full of arrows, three entering his heart.
"As soon as I had called out I saw it was Indians in the camp, and I and
Owens cried out together, 'Indians.' There were no orders given, things
went on too fast, and the Colonel had men with him that did not need to be
told their duty. The Colonel and I, Maxwell, Owens, Godey and Stepp jumped
together and went to the assistance of our Delawares.
"I don't know who fired first and who didn't; but I think it was Stepp's
shot that killed the Klamath chief; for it was at the crack of Stepp's gun
that he fell. He had an English half-axe slung to his wrist by a cord, and
there were forty arrows left in his quiver; the most beautiful and warlike
arrows I ever saw. He must have been the bravest man among them, from the
way he was armed, and judging from his cap.
"When the Klamaths saw him fall, they ran; but we lay, every man with his
rifle cocked, until daylight, expecting another attack. In the morning we
found, by the tracks, that from fifteen to twenty of the Klamaths had
attacked us. They had killed three of our men and wounded one of the
Delawares, who scalped the chief, whom they left where he fell.
"Our dead men we carried on mules; but after going about ten miles we
found it impossible to get them any farther through the thick timber. And
finding a secret place we buried them under logs and chunks, having no way
to dig a grave. It was only a few days before this, that some of these
same Indians had come into our camp; and although we had only meat for two
days and felt sure that we should have to eat mules for ten or fifteen
days to come, the Colonel divided with them, and even had a mule unpacked
to give them some tobacco and knives."
In consequence of the war declared between the United States and Mexico,
Colonel Fremont thought it expedient to return to California. He judged
it, however, to be necessary first, as a lesson to the savages, to punish
them severely for their wanton murder of his men. Kit Carson, at the head
of ten chosen mountaineers, was sent forward in search of their
strongholds. If he discovered them without being seen himself he was to
return for reinforcements. If seen he was to act as he thought best.
He soon discovered an Indian trail, and followed it to an Indian
encampment of fifty lodges, containing one hundred and fifty warriors. The
agitation in the camp evidenced that the Indians had obtained warning of
danger. Carson decided to attack them instantly, in the midst of their
confusion. The Indians for a moment made a bold stand. But as bullet after
bullet pierced them, from the invisible missiles of their foe, whom they
could not reach with arrows, they turned in a panic and fled. Mr. Carson
wishing to inflict chastisement which would not soon be forgotten, ordered
all their valuables to be collected in their lodges and then applied the
torch. The flames leaped high in the air and in an hour nothing remained
of the Indian village, but glowing embers and the bodies of their dead
warriors.
Colonel Fremont saw the smoke of the conflagration and understood its
significance. He hastened forward and joined Carson. But it was thought
that the Indians had not yet received the punishment which their crime
deserved. The whole party then moved on together for several miles, to a
secluded encampment.
Mr. Carson said that the warriors would certainly return to view the ruins
of their village and to bury their dead. Twenty men were consequently sent
back to lie in ambush. At midnight fifty savages were seen in the bright
moonlight, approaching their ruined homes. Some alarm caused them
precipitately to retreat. Carson was a little in advance with Colonel
Fremont. He saw one solitary warrior separate from the rest. Spurring upon
the savage at the distance of not ten paces he endeavored to shoot him,
when his gun missed fire. He was now apparently at the mercy of the
Indian, who had already with sinewy arm, drawn an arrow to the feather to
pierce the body of his foe.
Fremont was mounted on a very powerful and spirited charger. He plunged
the rowels of his spurs into the animal, when the noble horse made one or
two frantic leaps, knocked down the Indian and trampled over him. The
arrow of the savage flew wide of its mark. The next moment a rifle ball
pierced his heart, and he lay quivering in death.
The party now pressed on to the Sacramento river. The Klamath warriors
dogged their path, watching for an opportunity to take them at advantage.
One day Carson and Godey, who were a little separated from the rest of the
company, came quite unexpectedly upon a band of these warriors and
instantly charged upon them. One Indian only was too proud to fly. He took
his position behind a rock and as soon as the two white men came within
shooting distance, he let fly his arrows with great force and rapidity.
After dodging these arrows for some time, Carson mounted and crept through
concealment, till he obtained good aim at the savage. There was a sharp
report of the rifle, and the Indian was dead. Carson took from him a
beautifully wrought bow and a quiver still containing a number of arrows.
But the savages still continued to hover around their trail without
venturing upon any attack.