In the winter of 1849 Dr. House and Mr. Hemmenway made a trip to
Prabat, about one hundred miles to the northeast of the capital.
This place is the site of a watt erected over an imprint in the
rock, reputed to have been made by the footstep of Buddha. At that
particular season of the year multitudes come from all parts of the
kingdom to do homage to this “shadow” of Buddha. The doctor gives
quite a detailed description of his experiences:
“A rocky mount, covered with a pagoda, rose before us to the
height of three hundred to four hundred feet. On a lower
elevation in front of this peak is the famous foot print;
over which stands a very beautiful tho excessively ornamented
structure, with elegant pillars on a side supporting
a pagoda-like gilded roof, towering up seven stories,
gracefully diminishing till they terminated in a handsome
golden spire. On a rocky summit on the left stood a small
pagoda, and on the right a higher eminence was crowned with
a similar sightly structure. Before it was a long flight of
stone steps leading up to the platform on which it stood. We
ascended these steps, crossed a little court, entered another
a little higher—and without ceremony entered the half-open
door of the sanctuary before we were forbidden. Had we
delayed a moment perhaps we should have lost the opportunity
and had the gates closed against us. But we were in and made
as good use of our eyes as we could during the few moments
we were allowed to continue. More than one voice was raised
in the silence that had prevailed within, saying to us we
must go out, go out, or else kneel down and worship. One man
with an air of authority came up and took us by the shoulder,
ordering us roughly to take off our hats and shoes. So we
went out.
“But we had seen the grave-like opening at the bottom of
which the sacred footstep is said to be, though covered as
it was with broad pieces of gold leaf and cloth of gold,
and women kneeling low before it in an attitude of profound
homage. The pavement of the room is of solid silver, the
square blocks smoothly polished by the votaries as they
pass in and out on knees. The footstep is said to receive
annually a great amount of gold, while offerings of rings
and other articles of value are thrown into the opening not
infrequently.”
Leaving the sanctuary the visitors climbed on up to the top of the
hill to survey the country. Returning, Dr. House became separated
from his companion; and as he approached the scene of the fabled
footprint, he stopped to look at the elegant pagoda. Soon a crowd
gathered around him, and in answer to a priest he explained why
they had not worshiped before the footprint. Some were wondering
at his garments; others were wondering at the unheard-of boldness
in resolutely keeping on a hat while on holy ground. While he
was talking, a rude push from someone behind and then yells from
a hundred throats gave a threatening aspect to the situation.
Fortunately, at that critical moment, a Bangkok priest, an old
acquaintance, recognised him and was not afraid to come to the
rescue. He then withdrew in safety, and finding Mr. Hemmenway, the
two returned to their elephants and took up the journey to the
boats. In the narrative of this trip Dr. House records having come
upon a boy of about fourteen years, born without arms or legs, but
perfect in other respects. The arm-bone was projected about four
inches, covered with skin, calloused at the end from use. The boy
could not raise or feed himself, but could make slight change of
position by rotating alternately on each thigh.
A number of tours were taken in the dry seasons of ’49 and ’50.
One through inland waterways to the Bang Pakong River and thence
northward above Nakonnayok, meeting many Lao people living on the
river-bottom farm lands. Another to a point some two hundred miles
up the Meinam, and a year later yet another trip was made as far as
Paknampo, some three hundred miles up the same stream, and thence
two days’ journey up the right fork of the Meinam.